Right now, we just report total power output from the port, which is the combined voltage and current going through that port. The Power station definitely knows the PDO that the sink is negotiating, but for simplicity, we just report the total power. If there are two devices plugged in, we only show one port at a time, but you can get feel for it by the power meters on the side of the display that indicate the wattage going through the respective port (between 0 and 100W). I'll see if we can get Voltage and Amperage displayed as an alternative option.

"- Non-replaceable usb-c ports on both the battery pack and iron - Selector knob is soldered on instead of using a ribbon cable or press on connector - Power button is soldered on instead of another connector style" These are all great repairability points, and definitely parts that we'd like to modular-ize in future revisions. When designing a product, there is always a tradeoff between ease and complexity of assembly and the final cost of the product. Adding another board, mounting hardware, jumper cable to every USB-C port greatly increases the costs of assembly, and therefore of the final product. In this first revision, we prioritized ease of replaceability of the battery and display. The knob and the button are both on the same daughter-board, but that can be replaced without tools. We're working on some updates to the product for V2 that would move the USB-C ports off of the main board. "- Closed source firmware" All I can say about this is "Closed source for now". "- Cannot use other soldering tips...

Hi Josh, thanks for the feedback! Several of your points are related to the battery, so I'll address them here: The Torx screws on the outside are the unfortunate side effect of regulatory agencies being really out of touch with the repair world. You've probably noticed that all the other screws on the device are Phillips and they're all the same size (no way to get them mixed up). However, when it came to compliance and safety certification, we were told that "batteries cannot be easily accessible by end users", and that T10 Torx screws are non-standard enough to count as Security Screws. This really bothers us, but rather than limit our available sales outlets (most online and retail sellers will not sell products if they don't meet UL safety certifications), we opted to give you the option to replace those rear case screws yourself. Here's a McMaster link to a Phillips screw that will fit that spot exactly: https://www.mcmaster.com/95836A205/ Additionally, I cant be too explicit, but if you look around...

Okay, if you're willing to play along and try out a few things, I think we might have a path to a solution here. (1) Unplug anything from the rear port of the power station. (2) Press together and hold the power button + knob button down for at least 10 seconds. Release. This will perform a "hard shutdown" of the device. (3) Press and hold the knob button, and, keeping the knob pressed down, plug the power station into the computer. This should put the device into DFU (Device Firmware Update) mode, and you should hear a chime that a USB device has connected to the computer. Release the knob button. The screen on the Power Station will stay blank. (4) If the above steps don't work the first time, try following them again. It can be hard to tell if the device is already on or off when you start. (5) Go to www.ifixit.com/fixhub/console and follow the prompts to connect to your Power Station. Select "upload firmware" and select "upgrade now". The device should follow the firmware update process and boot...

Our battery pack has a peak discharge rate of ~5000mA, which provides a good balance of peak power (100W) with long battery life. However, running at peak power output generates a lot of heat, and the Power Station, like the other battery packs that you've seen, will hit thermal limits after running at 100W output for ~20 minutes. While frustrating, this is a technological limit of Li-ion batteries, and the throttling is there to prevent overheating of the battery packs, which can cause "thermal runaway" events. If you wanted a battery pack capable of running at 100W for 40 minutes straight, you'd want something that has a 1C (or lower) discharge rate while supplying 100W. This is going to depend quite a bit on the structure of the battery bank (how many cells in parallel vs series) and the internal circuitry of the USB device, since most components used in power banks aren't rated for voltages higher than ~20V. There are newer battery banks that can output 36 and 48V over USB, but they're considerably...

Both the Soldering and the Power Station do USB PD 3.0

The FixHub Smart Soldering Iron can operate on any USB-PD power source between 15W and 100W.

Yes, it can be frozen, but be careful when bending the iOpener while the plastic housing is cold. The liquid inside is fine to freeze, but flexing the plastic while very cold can cause tiny tears/fractures in the plastic that can leak once the iOpener has warmed up.

Hello Maria! Great question! You may have to replace the whole drive, but before you go and do all that, try the procedure outlined in this thread first: How to realign blu-ray dirve Also, depending on the generation of PS3, you may just need to push the disk in further in order to get it to take the disk. On some models, there is a small IR sensor that senses when a disk has been inserted, and it starts the disk uptake process. This often fails. However, there is also a mechanical trigger for the disk uptake that starts when the uptake wheels get spread far enough apart. This only occurs when the disk is pushed in most of the way. Good luck, and let us know how it works out.

Hey there ali. It sounds like you pulled some of the leads off the circuit board. It's a common problem when desoldering ports, so don't feel bad. It is however, some pretty bad news for your phone. Without getting electrical contact back between the port and the board, you're in a pretty bad spot. You might be able to frankenstein it back together, however, with some fine copper wire and some soldering skills. Just run the wire from where it was supposed to go on the charging port to the lead, essentially bypassing the gap. Let us know what you decide to do and how it works out!