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はじめに

このガイドを使ってGoogle Pixelのバッテリーを交換します。毎日使用すると、通常バッテリーは18~24ヶ月で、大部分のバッテリー容量を失います。もしお持ちのスマホの充電を頻繁に行い、突然シャットダウンする事態にあっている場合は、バッテリーを交換することで解決できるかもしれません。

ご注意:ディスプレイを固定している強靭な接着剤と、ツールを差し込めるスペースが最小限であるため、この作業中、アクシデントでディスプレイにダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。作業を成功させるには、インストラクションに従い、全ての注意書きの指示に従ってください。

デバイスを再組み立てする前に、バッテリーの残量を25%以下まで放電してください。充電されたリチウムイオンバッテリー は引火の原因となったり、アクシデントで穴を開けてしまうと爆発の恐れがあります。

バッテリーが膨張している場合は、

適切な処理方法に従ってください

  1. デバイスの電源を切ります。
    • デバイスの電源を切ります。

    • iOpenerを使ってディスプレイの端に載せて温めます。ディスプレイ下の接着剤が柔らかくなります。もしくは、ヒートガンやドライヤーを代用することができます。

    • スピーカーとマイク付近の表面(デバイスの上下にあります)には大型の接着剤が付けられています。そのため若干長く、熱に当てなければなりません。熱くて触れられない程度ならば、ディスプレイは十分に温まっています。時間にすると約2分程度です。

    When reassembling, does the adhesive still hold the phone together when closed or do we need to apply more adhesive?

    Jess Haddow - 返信

    Unfortunately also cracked my display on the way in. You have to go pretty deep under the top and bottom of the screen but BARELY in around the sides, especially the corners. If I had to do it over again, I would have either tried a playing card or put some type of depth limit/mark on my pick so I didn’t go more than a few millimeters in.

    Matthew Jastremski - 返信

    Use plenty of heat here and take your time. Start from the top, then the sides. use a gentle prying motion with the picks but don’t go too deep.

    Richard Wood - 返信

    It’s EXTREMELY easy to crack the screen. Just buy a new display module before fixing it. The old screen will be disposable.

    Buyi Yu - 返信

    Don’t even waste your time with the iOpener. I went straight for the hair dryer and opening picks took 30 mins to get the screen off with no issues.

    eric duchene - 返信

    If you haven’t purchased this kit yet then stop right here. The difficulty, as stated, is very difficult. This was my first attempted repair. I spent a good hour heating the adhesive and felt good about getting the display off. I even paused to boot the phone to make sure I didn’t damage the screen before flipping it over - it worked fine still! Then I went to pull the display from the top using the picks. Shattered the corner of the screen. $129 for a new screen. At this point, the Pixel 3 is $499. I bought a new phone. Just be prepared to break the screen. Many people mention it in the comments. I felt confident I could do it. I couldn’t.

    Michael Neil - 返信

  2. 次の手順では、ディスプレイをPixelの筐体に固定している接着剤を切り込みます。 参考のために、ディスプレイパネル裏側の様子が左側の画像で確認できます。ディスプレイユニット端とOLEDパネルの間の狭い隙間にご注意ください。 デバイスの側面に1.5mm以上、もしくはデバイス上下に9 mm以上深く開口ツールを差し込んでしまうと、ディスプレイに永久的なダメージを与えてしまいます。
    • 次の手順では、ディスプレイをPixelの筐体に固定している接着剤を切り込みます。

    • 参考のために、ディスプレイパネル裏側の様子が左側の画像で確認できます。ディスプレイユニット端とOLEDパネルの間の狭い隙間にご注意ください。

    • デバイスの側面に1.5mm以上、もしくはデバイス上下に9 mm以上深く開口ツールを差し込んでしまうと、ディスプレイに永久的なダメージを与えてしまいます。

    • 吸盤カップを使って、ディスプレイを上に引き上げ、ディスプレイと筐体の間にわずかな隙間を作ります。

    • ディスプレイがひび割れている場合は、透明の補強テープを全体に貼り、吸盤カップが固定され、割れたガラスが飛び散らないようにしてください。

  3. 開口ピックもしくはプラスチックカードをカシスとディスプレイアセンブリの間の隙間に差し込みます。 開口ピックをディスプレイ端周辺にスライドして、留められた接着剤を切り込んでいきます。 ディスプレイパネルは脆いです。ディスプレイを再利用する場合は、ツールは必要以上に奥まで差し込まないようご注意ください。ツールを深く差し込むと、ガラス下のOLEDパネルにダメージを与えてしまいます。
    • 開口ピックもしくはプラスチックカードをカシスとディスプレイアセンブリの間の隙間に差し込みます。

    • 開口ピックをディスプレイ端周辺にスライドして、留められた接着剤を切り込んでいきます。

    • ディスプレイパネルは脆いです。ディスプレイを再利用する場合は、ツールは必要以上に奥まで差し込まないようご注意ください。ツールを深く差し込むと、ガラス下のOLEDパネルにダメージを与えてしまいます。

    I needed a stronger tool than the provided guitar picks to actually get between the glass and the frame. Had to use a metal tool to get in there. Once I could get in, things went fairly smoothly.

    Only mistake after that was not getting a great seal on the glue when reassembling the phone so now the glass toward the bottom of the screen doesn’t completely stay in place. :(

    Steve Johnson - 返信

    Dang! Metal is a scary choice, but I’m glad it worked out for the most part. That’s good to know. You could try re-heating the adhesive around the part of the screen that isn’t staying in place, and then putting the phone under a stack of books for an hour or so! That might get it to seal up completely.

    Taylor Dixon -

    I got the glass free by using plenty of heat, an x-acto knife to start the opening and playing cards under the glass to break the glue. I did not use the suction cup because it kept feeling like it would break the glass.

    Michael Hendricks - 返信

    +1 to Michael Hendricks. I ended up putting mine in my toaster oven (which worked splendidly), and I did have to use an x-acto knife to get it started. After that, it was possible to continue using the picks, but DON’T EXPECT TO BE ABLE TO REUSE THE SAME DISPLAY. New displays are $35 on ebay. Just get a new one before you start the work or you’ll almost certainly be without a phone for a week.

    Kael Shipman - 返信

    I was super careful based on all the comments to not even get close to touching the back of the screen. But when reassembled I get nothing but a vibration when turning the phone on.

    I used the suction cup, lotsa heat, started from the top and pried screen off towards the bottom just barely teasing the edges with a special pick that I had from previous battery replacements (special pick limits penetration). It seemed to come off unscathed. But the results say otherwise.

    GUNTIS CIRCENIS - 返信

    Woof, like others have said, it’s incredibly easy to ruin the screen in this process. Kind of impossible to tell if you’re getting the adhesive or the screen with your tools.

    Definitely have a replacement if you really want to have a working phone after this step.

    Kris - 返信

  4. 引き続き、デバイス周辺の残りに付けられた接着剤も丁寧に切り込みます。 横側のベゼルをスライドする際は、わずか1.5 mmの奥行しかないため、特にご注意ください。 横側のベゼルをスライドする際は、わずか1.5 mmの奥行しかないため、特にご注意ください。
    • 引き続き、デバイス周辺の残りに付けられた接着剤も丁寧に切り込みます。

    • 横側のベゼルをスライドする際は、わずか1.5 mmの奥行しかないため、特にご注意ください。

    there should be two notes here - “while adhesive is still warm, REMOVE ALL OF IT or you would be fcked later.” additionally, “ensure you are not separating the OLED from the glass as this will somehow render the screen completely useless”

    Liz Zelnick - 返信

    Agreed. I just removed the glass from the OLED display…oopss. I’m hosed.

    Joshua Brown - 返信

    Removing the adhesive while it is warm is a great idea!

    Re: removing the glass from the OLED, as long as you aren’t inserting your opening pick deeper than Step 2 recommends, you should be safe from separating the glass and the display panel unless you are using a ton of heat, in which case you might be frying the display anyway!

    Taylor Dixon - 返信

    I didn’t apply enough heat during this process and subsequently separated the digitizer from the glass, instead of the whole assembly from the case. I had 3/4 of the screen free from the case when I became impatient and just tried to muscle my way through the rest of the adhesive. It is important to stop and apply more heat during this process any time it starts feeling difficult to move the pick through the adhesive, otherwise you risk breaking the screen and having to get a whole new one.

    Britton Wickes - 返信

    I got the glass off without cracking anything, but now that it’s back together it doesn’t seem to work. Could it have been damaged from the heat? It flickers green for an instant when plugging in to power or pressing the power button.

    Nicholas Cox - 返信

    Any recommendations on adhesive when reinstalling? I see there is a pre-made adhesive for sale here for $5.99. Don’t know if 3m double-sided tape would work just as well, or what thickness to use. Any tips would be much appreciated.

    Phillip - 返信

    Hey Phillip! I’d go with the pre-made adhesive to save yourself the headache of measurement, cutting, and having a whole roll of 3M tape you might not need. It would definitely work if that’s what you prefer though!

    Here’s a guide for applying the pre-made adhesive that you can follow, or just curb from if you use the 3M tape! Google Pixel Display Adhesive Installation

    Taylor Dixon - 返信

  5. 接着剤を切断できたら、ゆっくりとディスプレイ上部(スピーカーグリルの切り欠きがある側)から持ち上げます。ゆっくりとデバイスの下側に向けて垂直に持ち上げて裏返します。画像のように配置してください。 ディスプレイを完全に取り外さないでください。まだダメージが入りやすいリボンケーブルで接続されたままです。ディスプレイを開く際は、ケーブルに過度な圧力がかからないようご注意ください。 ディスプレイを完全に取り外さないでください。まだダメージが入りやすいリボンケーブルで接続されたままです。ディスプレイを開く際は、ケーブルに過度な圧力がかからないようご注意ください。
    • 接着剤を切断できたら、ゆっくりとディスプレイ上部(スピーカーグリルの切り欠きがある側)から持ち上げます。ゆっくりとデバイスの下側に向けて垂直に持ち上げて裏返します。画像のように配置してください。

    • ディスプレイを完全に取り外さないでください。まだダメージが入りやすいリボンケーブルで接続されたままです。ディスプレイを開く際は、ケーブルに過度な圧力がかからないようご注意ください。

    Ruined my Pixel following these instructions. Ribbon cable is at bottom (chin) of phone and not as shown in pictures. My advice take it somewhere and have them replace the battery, that way when they break it it’s their fault.

    John Simpson - 返信

    I’m sorry the instructions weren’t clear, John! I’ve updated the guide to better illustrate where ribbon cable is and how to work around it.

    Taylor Dixon -

    And another note - I used the suction cup to lift the glass. Unfortunately the glass cracked at that point…bummer. I would update this to describe HOW to lift the glass. As in, LIGHTLY lift up with the suction cup while mostly lifting up on the guitar picks to help separate..

    Joshua Brown - 返信

    DO NOT “flip it over vertically toward the bottom of the device, and rest it on its face, as shown. “ unless you want to spend your day getting adhesive off the screen. Instead get the screw driver ready (step 7) before you start this step.

    eric duchene - 返信

  6. T5トルクスドライバーを使って、ディスプレイケーブルコネクタブラケットを固定している黒の3.5mm T5ネジを2本外します。
    • T5トルクスドライバーを使って、ディスプレイケーブルコネクタブラケットを固定している黒の3.5mm T5ネジを2本外します。

  7. ピンセットを使って、ディスプレイコネクタを固定しているブラケットを取り外します。
    • ピンセットを使って、ディスプレイコネクタを固定しているブラケットを取り外します。

    Using extreme care, another broken screen here. Instead of coming off together, the adhesive separated between the outer glass and the digitizer panel/screen. Both were damaged in the process. Waste of time and money.

    Chris Kahn - 返信

    Yes, me too. I’d like advice as to how to vary the glue heating process for this to not occur. Does the heat need to be applied for longer so the deeper OLED panel releases without pulling from the glass?

    Joshua Brown - 返信

  8. スパッジャーを使って、ディスプレイケーブルコネクタを持ち上げ、ディスプレイを解放します。

    (from other ifixit tutorial. Did not know this-and it is important!)

    To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

    bgwong2476 - 返信

  9. ディスプレイを取り出します。
    • ディスプレイを取り出します。

    • ある交換用のディスプレイには、イヤホンスピーカーグリルが付いていないものがあります。お手元のパーツにスピーカーグリルがついていない場合は、古いディスプレイから新しいパーツにグリルを移植してください。

    • 再組み立ての際は、ここで一旦作業を止めて、ディスプレイ用接着剤を交換してください。

  10. T5トルクス用ドライバーを使って、ミッドフレームに留められた3.5mmネジを9本外します。
    • T5トルクス用ドライバーを使って、ミッドフレームに留められた3.5mmネジを9本外します。

  11. ミッドフレームは5つのクリップでしっかりと固定されています。下の手順に示したように開口ツールを使って、内側に力を入れてこのクリップを外してください。
    • ミッドフレームは5つのクリップでしっかりと固定されています。下の手順に示したように開口ツールを使って、内側に力を入れてこのクリップを外してください。

    There’s also a clip at the top center (near the camera/ earpiece).

    When reassembling, snap the top clip in before you snap the sides. If you do the sides first, then you can’t snap the top in and will need to disassemble and try again.

    Mark Clementi - 返信

    On the reassembly step, make sure that the little black wire on the right hand side of the phone is tucked away really well. It can prevent the clip on the bottom right from snapping into place.

    Casey Thimm - 返信

    To add to Casey’s comment, the black wire needs to be routed along the gap between the battery and the back/left-hand edge of the rear casing.

    Roman Iwanczuk - 返信

    I would keep a flat razor or an exact-o knife on hand when releasing the midframe from the clips. The tool provided by ifixit does not work well. Even the blue picks would work better.

    Ben Eisenberg - 返信

  12. デバイス本体右下のコーナーにある切り欠きに開口ピックの先端を差し込みます。
    • デバイス本体右下のコーナーにある切り欠きに開口ピックの先端を差し込みます。

  13. 固定しているクリップを外すため、リアケースとミッドフレームの間の小さな隙間に、開口ピックを差し込み、デバイスの両側をスライドします。 この作業のスライドすることでクリップを外すことはできませんが、開口ピックが与える内向きのプレッシャーによって、スライドによる隙間が生じてきます。 クリップが外れない場合は、作業をしているエッジを手や、スパッジャーのようなツールで内側に押してみてください。
    • 固定しているクリップを外すため、リアケースとミッドフレームの間の小さな隙間に、開口ピックを差し込み、デバイスの両側をスライドします。

    • この作業のスライドすることでクリップを外すことはできませんが、開口ピックが与える内向きのプレッシャーによって、スライドによる隙間が生じてきます。

    • クリップが外れない場合は、作業をしているエッジを手や、スパッジャーのようなツールで内側に押してみてください。

    • まだミッドフレームを外さないでください。この下に、ダメージが入りやすいリボンケーブルが付いており、マザーボードとイヤホンスピーカーを繋いでいます。

    when removing the mid frame i damaged a ribbon cable at the bottom left. will that prevent my phone from turning on?

    Bryce Thoreson - 返信

    I had no luck using the spudger (too blunt) or the opening picks (too weak). I used a straight blade as shown at about 2:35 in this video:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_conti...

    Todd Koenig - 返信

  14. スパッジャーを使って、イヤホンスピーカーケーブルのコネクタをまっすぐ上に引き上げ、マザーボードから接続を外します。 デバイスからミッドフレームを取り出します。
    • スパッジャーを使って、イヤホンスピーカーケーブルのコネクタをまっすぐ上に引き上げ、マザーボードから接続を外します。

    • デバイスからミッドフレームを取り出します。

    • 再組み立ての際には、イヤホンスピーカーケーブルを取り付けて、ミッドフレーム上部を先に挿入します。それからクリップを元の位置に取り付けてください。

  15. スパッジャーを使ってマザーボードからバッテリーリボンケーブルを外します。
    • スパッジャーを使ってマザーボードからバッテリーリボンケーブルを外します。

  16. ピンセットを使って、マザーボードをドーターボードに接続しているケーブルを覆っているシルバーのテープを剥がします。下にあるコネクタが見えるようになるまで剥がします。 スパッジャーを使って、コネクタをまっすぐ持ち上げ、マザーボードからコネクタの接続を外します。
    • ピンセットを使って、マザーボードをドーターボードに接続しているケーブルを覆っているシルバーのテープを剥がします。下にあるコネクタが見えるようになるまで剥がします。

    • スパッジャーを使って、コネクタをまっすぐ持ち上げ、マザーボードからコネクタの接続を外します。

  17. スパッジャーを使って充電ポートのリボンケーブルをマザーボードから外します。 スパッジャーを使って充電ポートのリボンケーブルをマザーボードから外します。 スパッジャーを使って充電ポートのリボンケーブルをマザーボードから外します。
    • スパッジャーを使って充電ポートのリボンケーブルをマザーボードから外します。

    This step can be skipped entirety. Don’t do more work than you have too. just be careful not to bend the cable.

    eric duchene - 返信

  18. バッテリーには、バッテリー取外用のタブを兼ねるジャケットが付いており、それを引っ張るとバッテリーが外れます。 それでもうまくいかない場合は、以下の手順に従ってください。 開口ピックの先端をバッテリーの底にゆっくりと差し込み、接着剤を剥がします。
    • バッテリーには、バッテリー取外用のタブを兼ねるジャケットが付いており、それを引っ張るとバッテリーが外れます。 それでもうまくいかない場合は、以下の手順に従ってください。

    • 開口ピックの先端をバッテリーの底にゆっくりと差し込み、接着剤を剥がします。

    • バッテリーが簡単に外れない場合は、力を入れてアグレッシブにこじ開けないでください。iOpenerもしくはヒートガンでデバイスの裏側に熱を当てて、接着剤を柔らかくします。

    • この作業では、バッテリーを変形させないようにしてください。柔らかい形状のリチウムイオンバッテリーにダメージを与えてしまうと、危険な化学物質が排出されて引火の原因となり、爆発の恐れもあります。作業は力を入れすぎず、メタル製のツールは使用しないでください。

    • バッテリーを取り出した後、再利用はしないでください。バッテリーの再利用は潜在的な危険が潜んでいます。新しいバッテリーに交換しましょう。

    Don’t mess around here. Use the hair dryer, on the back of the phone for 30 seconds. Battery came out in seconds.

    eric duchene - 返信

    • バッテリーを取り出します。

    • 新しいバッテリーの装着方法

    • デバイスに残っている接着剤を取り除きます。接着剤の付いているエリアをイソプロピルアルコールと、メガネ拭きワイプなどのリントフリーの布で綺麗に拭き取ってください。

    • 新しいバッテリー用プレカットの接着剤もしくは両面テープを用意します。新しい接着剤はバッテリーに直接付けず、デバイス本体に貼ります。

    • 新しいバッテリーをしっかりと固定するため、5–10秒間押さえます。

    When wiping adhesive off the midframe, be careful not to get any alcohol on the foam with the little “X”s all over it. The alcohol will dissolve the foam.

    Casey Thimm - 返信

まとめ

交換用のパーツとオリジナルのパーツを見比べてください。残りのコンポーネントを移植する必要があるか、パーツを装着する前に接着剤の裏張りを取る必要があります。

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

この修理ガイドを完成したら、新しく装着したバッテリーのキャリブレーションを行なってください。

不要になった電子廃棄物は 認証済みリサイクルセンターで処分してください。

修理が上手く進みませんか?トラブルシュートのヘルプには、アンサーコミュニティを参照してください。

60 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:

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Taylor Dixon

メンバー登録日: 2018年06月26日

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I doubt many people can get past step 1 without it being game over. Take special care, read the comments, and other guides as well.

Benjamin Knight - 返信

I broke mine too. Not the glass but the display panel underneath.

For those who are going to try opening theirs: pay extreme attention to the fact that the display panel extends somewhat beyond the bottom edge of the visible part of the display where the cable connects and, if that wasn’t bad enough, the bottom bezel has a !&&* of a lot adhesive on it. Don’t insert plastic opening tools on the bottom corners - if you do that, you will damage one of the unprotected corners of the panel like I did. If I had to do that again, I’d probably start from the top edge instead.

The new screen ended up costing me the equivalent of $80, and I was surprised I was able to walk into a store and buy one at all in a country where Pixel was never officially available in the first place. They didn’t have white ones in stock so I went with a black one.

Gregory Klyushnikov -

Same. Even when being warned and trying to be super careful.

Joshua Campbell -

Another trashed screen. This phone is a difficult one if you have not done one before. I would recommend not even bothering with prying under the sides and just concentrate on the top and bottom. The edges only allow about 2mm at most before you run into the LCD.

Tyler -

+1. Don’t bother trying to save the screen. Just save yourself the stress and buy a new screen on ebay for $35 before you begin. I have never botched a repair and I still managed to break my display on this. Yes, I was super careful, it took me like 45 minutes to finally get the display loose, and when I put it all back together, the display was totally dead.

Kael Shipman -

At today’s pricing just buy a new screen and be done with it.

Jon -

Success! I was able to replace the battery in my pixel although it took much longer than expected. I highly recommend using a playing card (or several) to cut through the adhesive as it can fairly easily bend around the fragile components. Patience is needed as it took me nearly an hour to get the screen off, reheating, gently prying and cutting with the card. Once past the screen it was fairly straightforward despite the pre cut adhesive being too long. The adhesive comes back into play during the reassembly prep as it took at least half an hour to remove the old adhesive and prep for the new. Be aware that the foam on the mid frame is alcohol soluble and will dissolve on contact. The new adhesive for the screen took some gentle massaging to line up but ultimately went on without much fight. All back together, it works (hopefully with renewed battery life). I would say allocate at least 2 hours unless you’ve done it before.

josh9623 - 返信

This took me about 2 hours. I was very, very careful, and it was a success! No broken screen.

jlteekell - 返信

My screen is already broken and my battery is close to shot so should I just plan on replacing the screen anyways? Seems like removing screen without breaking it is crazy difficult so I should just plan on replacing the screen and battery in one procedure.

Matt Mendivil - 返信

Worked like a charm! Don’t expect to breeze through this in 30 minutes though. I used a hair dryer rather than the I-opener and was able to easily pry the screen up from the bottom of the phone using the blue opening tool and the suction cup. From there I used the picks to completely release the adhesive from the bottom and the top of the screen. Once the top and bottom were loose I used a playing card to loosen the sides and the screen came right off. For step 14 the picks were too flexible to loosen the clips on the midframe but the spudger did the trick. Requires a bit a patience but it’s not nearly as scary as the comments make it seem. Great product

Anthony - 返信

Took me 3 hours but I was successful. Be careful. Watch a couple of YouTube videos and read the instructions front to back twice before you get started.

Adhesive is !&&* and getting started is challenging. Use a playing card and a heat gun to release the adhesive. I started in the top right corner of the device, used the included replacement adhesive as your guide.

I used the included suction cup, heat gun and an xacto knife to catch that first gap on the corner. Use the included picks to hold the gaps as you work your way around. Pull the playing card through the top and bottom gently, the adhesive will stick to the card.

Take care on the long sides, the edge of the screen is VERY narrow, make a mark along the edge of the card at 1mm. Don’t pry, just slide. Use the heat gun constantly, get the screen hot to the touch.

Once I reassembled the phone the microphone didn’t work. I popped it open again and reattached the ribbon cable on the daughter board. Microphone works now — but it gave me a good scare.

Philip Van Drunen - 返信

While this was definitely a difficult repair, I think that the guide is very thorough. I did this repair in about 3 and a half hours with 4 other friends all working together. We were very careful and cut very shallowly through the adhesive to ensure the safety of the display ribbon. We did however use a video guide to fill in a few of the small gaps not shown in the images here. In the end, everything worked out well, so I would definitely recommend this guide to fix your Pixel battery, as long as you have some help and a lot of time.

Afana Craft - 返信

Broke the display trying to remove it, even after using a heat gun the display was hard to remove. Was successful with replacing the battery. The display I ordered to replace the the broken display I also broke trying to fit into the frame, but It did work for a short time. Have ordered another display and adhesive - have a better idea what to do.

Dale Slaughter - 返信

Success! Used the iFixit heat pad

Took ~3 hours.

Patience working through getting the display unstuck is key I think.

Removing the glue before putting in the new one was a massive nuisance, unlike the photos the glue doesn’t simply peel off, every single pit had to be coaxed off with the spudger. The most effective technique seemed to be kind of pushing it from the edges with the tip of the spudger.

Paul Buxton - 返信

Thanks for the guide. Did this in ~2 hours without breaking my screen (murphy’s law: I ordered a replacement screen to have on standby just in case). PATIENCE was the key word here. Used a heat gun, a heavy-duty suction cup, a guitar pick to maintain the initial gap, and then a playing card to gently cut the glue.

Just focus on the top and bottom of the screen - don’t even fool with the sides, unless you want a broken screen. Once you have the top (or bottom) carefully unseated/unglued, peel the screen back using the suction cup - this will take care of the sides - and then just focus on the other end.

Good luck

Derek - 返信

I replaced the battery and charge port. Phone boots up but no display on the lcd so I guess I broke it. But I see no visible damage at all on the back or front of the screen and the digitizer senses touches. Ordered another screen. Hoping I didn’t break something else in the process or else could be a pain trying to diagnose it. Btw anyone know how to power off the phone without use of the lcd? Holding power button only reboots.

Vince - 返信

Dang it, that’s a bummer. Even if the screen shows no damage, it’s possible that your opening pick went in just a little too far and messed up the display. That said, it’s also possible you could have a different problem! It sounds like you were really careful with the screen, so it could be that your display cable connector just didn’t fully snap into place, or it may have gotten some gunk on it that is interfering with the connection. Hopefully the new display works.

Without the display you can hold the power button + volume down to restart the phone, but I’m not sure there is a way to shut it down. You can always just disconnect the battery, if the phone is still semi-open!

Taylor Dixon -

i did the same - battery works fine and i can hear the phone boot; roommate did a test call and the phone works, but the screen is toast. i ordered a new screen, plugged it in (without attaching the adhesive!) and nada. idk what else to try

Liz Zelnick -

If a new display is still malfunctioning and you’re sure the display cable is properly seated, I’d say something probably short circuited during the repair. It’s hard be certain what happened, but a short circuits tend to happen when cables are unplugged while the phone is powered on. At this point a new motherboard will most likely take care of the issue. (Google Pixel G-2PW4100 Motherboard) I’m sorry things didn’t go well for you both, and I hope you can get everything working soon!

Taylor Dixon -

Vince - Way late but just attempted this and while I think the only issue is the display, I would like to verify it is before opening a $140 part that can’t be returned (Thx, iFixit)— Did the new display solve the problem?

I believe a soft reset can be done by just holding power button 20 s, but release immediately otherwise you’ll start it back up. I did this a few times and felt the vibration upon startup.

Robert Smithlin -

The new display worked like a charm. $140 sounds really steep for a pixel 5.0. Display. I got this one from eBay and it worked just fine. Still working months later. There are other sellers on eBay with comparable pricing.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=...

Vince -

This guide was great. The new battery makes me think my phone is brand new with the longevity it has now. I can echo the warning about getting the screen off. I bought the whole ifixit kit for this procedure and my only recommendation is that you use the warmer on both sides before you start to pry off the screen. It is extremely delicate and that cannot be understated. I ended up having to purchase a replacement screen and then dig out all the shards of glass before replacing the battery.

For those who are scared of this procedure, getting the glass off is the hardest part, the rest is easy.

Andrew Gordon - 返信

I broke the screen on opening for 2 reasons. First. Should be clearly notated that the ribbon cable between the OLED and the DIGITIZER (which SHOULD COME OFF IN ONE PIECE WHEN YOU REMOVE THE DISPLAY) sits INTO the bottom right side of the glass bezel. So the instructions to “not go further than the colored (white or black) glass into where the display is”, is inaccurate.

Second, my digitizer separated from the OLED while lifting it out, was this because the adhesive wasn’t hot enough? How to avoid this??

Joshua Brown - 返信

Important to start the screen carefully. The sides are least sticky but the most difficult. This is because there is 1.9mm of space between edge of glass and the OLED display under the glass. If you keep your pry tool at 30° you will miss the Display. Once you have the screen off the hard part is behind you. Keep this guide close by. Watch videos and don't hurry. Good luck!

Donald Droga - 返信

Excellent guide. Performed a successful replacement without damaging my screen and so far everything seems to work fine.

-Removal of the screen wasn’t as hard as they made it out to be, just gotta be careful.

-Removal of all old adhesive was more difficult

-It was difficult to keep the front camera lens cover clean during adhesive removal . Removal of the old adhesive was the most time consuming part of my battery replacement

-the thin wire that runs down the battery side of the bottom part of the phone got in the way of clipping in the middle frame. I noticed when I was removing the glue that it kinda “bulged” up on the side between the screws. I removed the middle frame again and I had to shift the battery over a millimeter or so in order to place the wire down out of the way.

-Also I have no idea how it was missed in the first place but one of the 9 screws in my middle frame was already loose! Screw # 4 if you count Left to Right, top to bottom in step #11

Henry Scharf - 返信

apparently I screwed something up and missed more “tests” before I placed the screen on the device. 1: It won’t charge. 2: Vibration motor wasn’t working 3: speaker isn’t working. Now the phone is completely dead and I’m waiting on more screen adhesive before I take it apart again.

Henry Scharf -

Check your connection to the charging port module. My guess is that it wasn't plugged back in correctly. Otherwise get one of these. Very easy to replace once the phone is opened up. I had to change mine out because the port wouldn't charge. Mic, speaker,motor and charge port are in this module.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Google-Pixel-5-...

Vince -

Henry, that is a bummer! Vince is right, there’s probably something going on with your daughterboard. Make sure the long interconnect cable (the one you remove in step 18) is properly connected, and if all else fails, the replacement part he linked (sorry, ours is out of stock :( ) should do the trick!

Taylor Dixon -

No mention of earpiece mesh?

Donald Droga - 返信

Donald, do you mean the earpiece speaker grill? We do mention that in the Google Pixelディスプレイの交換 guide.

Taylor Dixon -

Read all of the instructions thoroughly, read all of the comments, watch some videos, TAKE YOUR TIME. Its a great kit but I used a heat gun and it took me 3 hours start to finish. You’ll definitely want to start from the top when removing the glass. Wedge a few guitar picks in there, hit it with the heat again, and keep gently working that glass off.

Richard Wood - 返信

My screen broke while removal, but no issues aside from that. No fault of the review, just be very careful if you are hoping to reuse the screen. They’re cheap on Amazon, just plan on breaking it unless you’re a pro.

My only recommendation regarding the directions is to really heat the screen up. I progressively heated it hotter and hotter and found that the adhesive really loosened up when an IR thermometer showed the screen to be ~190 F, which is in my opinion a higher than the guides recommended ‘slightly too hot to touch’.

Also, be careful to not get alcohol on the foam under screen liner - it will badly melt it and will make your screen sit wavy.

I found better luck with a wide, flat razor blade to make the initial gap. Be sure to go in at an angle rather than straight down, I went too far down and bent the mid-frame a little bit. A wide blade won’t scratch up the phone frame. But at this point my screen was already broken so take that for what it’s worth.

Jackson Schleich - 返信

Hopefully this will help prevent others from accidentally breaking their screens. This back to back to show what you are dealing with in terms of dimensions. I would pay particular attention to the bottom of the screen where the lcd angles in and extends about a 1/8” beyond the what you are able to see from the front. I think this is where I may have damaged mine. I did not see any physical damage on mine but it definitely doesn’t power on.

https://imgur.com/wR4HUo6

Vince - 返信

Just finished replacing the battery and it wasn’t too bad. Read the comments about other peoples’ mistakes, watch some Youtube videos, take your time, and you’ll be fine. If you’re not good at these things or very nervous, then just buy an extra screen to have on hand and return it if you end up not needing it.

Mark Clementi - 返信

Just in the process of replacing battery…The prying part wasn’t so hard as I’ve imagined…took ~15 mins, and here is a photo of the back of the screen. https://i.imgur.com/W0C2JHl.jpg .See the red rectangle? I might have ‘damaged’ something so be really careful dealing with the lower half of the frame. I’ve re-powered on and display & touch are both good.

pizzamx - 返信

Took me another ~30 mins to remove the midframe…AFAIC this part is more tricky then removing the screen…just remember to follow the instructions - i.e. apply inward pressure.

pizzamx -

I’m screwed. Screen doesn’t work after replacing the battery. No sure what went wrong…placing order for a replacement screen now :(

pizzamx -

does the phone power on when you hold the power button? ie, does the phone have that short vibration during boot? if not, maybe something isn’t plugged in correctly? if it does vibrate, then yeah, the screen went poop. the latter is what happened to me (it vibrated but and booted up but the screen never lit up) so i replaced the screen and all good (after $40).

Vince -

Hi Vince, unfortunately my phone did boot up, I felt the vibration and it rang when receiving incoming calls…After comparing it with the new replacement I think it was the display cable connector pins that I accidentally broke while plugging the cable. See https://imgur.com/a/SuItoIN and the two panels side by side: https://imgur.com/a/mL6UjGh . If you can see it clearly it might well be the top-right part of the pins that’ve gone missing…It’s really disaster…I’m just over-confident with myself :D Hope this post will help whoever doing this in the future and be reminded that anything can be broken.

pizzamx - 返信

I followed this procedure to replace the power button. Everything seemed to go well, though I may have gone to far in on the bottom (I went basically until the white border turns to display).

When I press the power button, the screen flickers green for an instant. When I first plugged it into my computer, it recognized it as a Pixel, but did not pop up using “fastboot devices”. Now, it isn’t recognized at all by the computer, sometimes saying “the usb device you plugged in has malfunctioned…”.

If I hold the power button for 25-30 seconds, I get the vibration like the phone is powering on, but nothing on screen and still not recognized using fastboot.

Any ideas? Did I short something on the motherboard? There’s a fair chance I accidentally powered the phone on before plugging everything back in as I was testing the power button to make sure it was seated correctly.

Anyway, thanks for this write up and any help ya’ll can offer!

Nicholas Cox - 返信

Nicholas, I’m sorry things didn’t work out! Yours certainly seems like a strange case. I’m going to optimistically guess that your problem is confined to the screen, and hope your computer isn’t recognizing it because of its own problems (you can never trust windows drivers too much haha). I think if I were you I would try a replacement screen, and then if that doesn’t work you can pick up a new motherboard. Hopefully only one of those two parts are the root of your problem. If you do only end up needing one of them, you can return the other! Sorry again about the complications, I hope you can get it worked out! Let us know how it goes!

Taylor Dixon -

Playing cards work. However I went to deep and must have jacked the LCD ribbon cable. No power to LCD. Found one used and working on ebay for 15.

Adam Yaccarino - 返信

Some of my notes:

1. Getting the phone open ( Steps 1-4 ) is the hardest part of this process.

Use a very thin blade or flat head. Must be real thin so you can make that gap.

Start at the top. You are going to create a chip in the frame regardless.

Use the tool opener to slide back and forth to cut the adhesive.

Take the time to heat the edges ( i used a hair dryer ) to soften the glue

2. With Step 12, I used a flat head to open.

Start from the bottom, where you have a small gap to pry up.

Run the flat head along and press the frame outward while lifting the mid section

The clip will naturally fall out and the mid section flip up.

3. Keep the mid section seperate and clean the adhesive. I used my fingernail.

With the LED screen part, be carefui not to touch the LED part too much or scratch too hard on the glass.

It does not have to be 100% clean, just smooth enough.

P.S. My LED screen came out perfect and only damaged on the glass part ( chipped paint work ) You can’t see it when fully assembled. :)

Good luck.

sadfad53 - 返信

Another success here! This repair was a lot less scary than I read it to be. I spent a LOT of time on the top and bottom of the screen adhesive, and essentially didn’t even mess with the thin sides. Once I got the top free and heated the screen enough, the sides just peeled up with the rest of the screen. Taking the old adhesive off was the most time consuming part, as many people here have noted.

Christopher Guzy - 返信

I read some of the above comments and figured that I would probably break the screen, so I ordered one in addition to the battery. Went through all the steps, put the phone together and booted it up. As it came up I was thinking I got ripped off because my new screen was all scratched up. Then I saw the new screen sitting there in the bag on the table—I had put back my original screen, which obviously works just fine. I’m ordering a new adhesive kit (cheap) and I’ll put the new screen on. The tool kit made the job much easier, battery life is excellent.

Michael Ciarochi - 返信

Chiming in to say I just completed this repair and while the phone turns on normally, my screen is dead (not even a green flicker like one user mentioned). I have the new display on order— does anyone have a good way to be absolutely sure there isn’t some other issue with reassembly? I would hate to open up $135 display only to find it’s not my display after all…

Aside from this issue that I fully admit I knew was a risk because of all the great comments, this guide is very well done. I do have a few suggestions for little traps I found, like the black and white wire around the battery that I nearly pinched after reassembling the mid-board. Very glad I noticed it wasn’t sitting quite even, and found that the wire had been pushed to the side in the way of the support area.

Robert Smithlin - 返信

OK this was my very first phone repair. In the first few steps of removing the screen I used the I-Opener and the pick method on the two ends with the most adhesive and once those were loosened used the “Jimmy” tool to get the thinner sides loose. I had low hopes of the screen working after this repair, but miraculously mine works on power up. 9 screws and 5 clips to hold in the mid frame, OMG is that overkill or what . Needless to say getting those darn clips back in was my biggest snafu. I was getting frustrated with it so I put it down and walked away for the day. Today they popped right in, go figure.

My completion of the 20 step breakdown took almost 45 minutes though, but when you add in the tutorial for cleaning/applying the new screen adhesive the total time is about right.

I bought the kit from Ifixit with everything I needed a good bit ago (doesn’t seem to be for sale anymore), except the screen, which as it turns out I didn’t need.

Confidence and tools to tackle another phone repair soon

colinbetzel - 返信

You chose a really difficult guide for your first repair. Nice job getting it done!

Arthur Shi -

Just wanted to add to the “Success!” side of this repair, as my wife (who is very handy) was able to bang through this without too much difficulty (SO proud of her, I certainly couldn’t do it!), and she’s never repaired a phone before. Honestly, if we had looked at the “difficult” rating, we may not have picked it up, so I’m kind of glad we didn’t!

There is a LOT of adhesive, but she was able to leverage the screen off without a scratch. That was definitely the most difficult part, everything after that was pretty easy with the guide available.

I would definitely recommend taking your time with the display, and concentrate your heating to the top and bottom (the sides are pretty thin with adhesive), but otherwise, give it a shot!!

Jason Greenwood - 返信

I successfully replaced the battery and the ear piece cover, without breaking my original screen. This was my first smartphone disassembly so it CAN be done if you're careful. Kudos to the instructions author as well as JerryRigEverything's teardown on YouTube!

Side note: Forego the iOpener and use a hairdryer instead. It's way better.

Tim Oakes - 返信

You WILL break the screen. Nearly impossible not to do so. I was extremely careful and the display is completely dead. Good Luck

Philip Holyoak - 返信

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