Tyler

Almost sounds like you are getting the “No Command” android guy: From this point you would hold down the power button and press volume up. Then you would enter the recovery menu where you can factory reset the device.

Unlock the steering wheel adjustment so you can take apart the column cover. Once the cover is out of the way the switch should be pretty easy to see. Should be just a couple screws holding it in place and a cable to detach.

Best to try and reset the phone: (1) Power the device off. (2) Press and hold the Home, Volume Up, and Power keys. (3) Continue holding the buttons even if the Samsung logo appears. The Android system recovery menu will appear if this was performed correctly, and the keys can be released. (4) Press the Volume Up or Volume Down key to select wipe data/factory reset, and then press the Power key to make your selection. (5) Press the Volume Up or Volume Down button to select Yes ��� delete all user data, and then press the Power key to make your selection. (6) When the reset is complete, press the Volume Up or Volume Down key to select reboot system now, and then press the Power key to make your selection.

I had a similar strange issue on an iPhone recently and a simply reboot actually fixed it.

The eclipse has timing marks that need to be aligned. If you move #1 cylinder to TDC you will see the alignment marks line up on the crank, camshaft, and oil pump. If you remove the belt with all marks aligned and then put the belt back in the same manner you will be good! If you fail, then you would end up with a Mitsubishi Diamond Pro like myself putting it back together. Note: Certain models had a oil pump and balancer shaft that could be 180 out and cause the engine to vibrate badly. How do i know this? I fixed someone’s eclipse that their neighbor had changed the timing belt on! After all that you can adjust the timing with a good old timing light and shifting the distributor.

without laying my eyes on it, most of the smaller Mitsubishi cars use a sealed hub. Replacement would be removing the drive shaft and 4 bolts that hold in the hub. Of course you would need to move a few things to get down to that point, but that’s the basic point. The larger monteros had a serviceable hub assembly, required some special tools to open the hub, and a special torque sequence to close it up.

The best tool you can have for breaks would be a vacuum bleeder. It comes with a reservoir you place on the master cylinder tank and then you go to each wheel and suck the fluid through. No pumping of the brake needed! This would also help if you have an air bubble in the master cylinder that’s preventing the brake fluid from getting into the piston to be pushed out. You can find these pretty cheap at a harbor freight or similar store.

Checking the Master cylinder fluid level will tell you immediately if you have a leak in the clutch hydraulic system. I am also confused to if you have a manual or automatic. The speed sensor on a manual is for the speedometer while on a automatic controls a lot more. A failed speed sensor on an automatic would cause a limp mode which locks the car into 2nd gear.

Air, Fuel, Spark Any of these can cause the issue. I have seen simple air leaks in the EGR system allow too much air and I have seen “home made” cold air intakes where the MAF (Mass air flow) sensor was just moved out of the way. An engine light will accompany most conditions as well.

If the sound is coming from the the steering wheel / column area it could be the SRS clock-spring. This clock-spring provides they connection to your steering wheel air bag and will start to make noise as the car ages. This is more of an annoyance, but if the clock spring breaks then you will get an SRS light.

Another trashed screen. This phone is a difficult one if you have not done one before. I would recommend not even bothering with prying under the sides and just concentrate on the top and bottom. The edges only allow about 2mm at most before you run into the LCD.