Fantastic guide, this was like dismantling a bomb… so much can go wrong (I had to work around a commonly stripped screw), but the guide and the comments were super helpful. Totally get why the logic board needs to be removed due to the solvent use… the batteries are really stuck in there.

The bundled kit was totally worth it, the only thing missing is the heat gun… but a hairdryer would work in a pinch.

Thanks for everything you do ifixit!

might be easier to do 45 first if the cables are getting too much in the way of the screw

I stripped the same screw here too, but I was able to very gently fold the connector up (being extremely careful to not damage the connector or the board

Woof, like others have said, it’s incredibly easy to ruin the screen in this process. Kind of impossible to tell if you’re getting the adhesive or the screen with your tools.

Definitely have a replacement if you really want to have a working phone after this step.

If you’re replacing your screen, READ ALL THE COMMENTS:

There are two small rubber gaskets at the top of the phone for the proximity sensor (one rectangle gasket sitting directly on top of another gasket with two circle cutouts) — if you’re replacing your screen and you miss these two pieces you’re not going to be able to access your screen while a call is active (the screen goes completely black on a call, and it doesn't know when to turn back on if the proximity sensor doesn't work). I almost completely reassembled the phone before I tested this and realized the problem.

The other comments here about also transferring the LED, vibration motor, ear speaker, headphone jack, and power/volume buttons are accurate, but neglected to mention these rubber gaskets for the proximity sensor.