Hello world!
I’m Arthur—technical writer, teardown engineer, researcher, and photographer at iFixit.
I have the illustrious honor of taking devices apart, identifying components, figuring out how things work, and showing others how to fix stuff. In addition, I perform electrical analysis and research how emergent tech works.
A day at the office: working on Google Pixel 3 guides
Education
I graduated from Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo with a master’s degree in electrical engineering, with a focus on control systems and mechatronics. Along the way, I designed high efficiency DC power circuits, grew organic OLED panels in a vacuum, and programmed a small swarm of robots to autonomously navigate and map out a cluttered room. My thesis work involved training neural networks to detect hidden structural faults in commercial buildings using acceleration sensor data. I enjoy both the theoretical and practical hands-on nature of my degree.
Making single pixel OLED panels in vacuum
“By teaching, we learn”
Much of my time at iFixit is spent instructing people how to fix stuff by writing step-by-step repair guides. So far, I’ve written over 180 guides for devices ranging from Rug Doctors to iPads. As I research, disassemble, and document repair procedures, I’m always learning something new. Working on smartphones necessitated a good understanding of how lithium-ion batteries work; writing Rug Doctor guides taught me how to remove rivets— something I haven’t had to deal with in smartphones…yet.
Installing a rivet onto the Rug Doctor
I am also a member of iFixit’s team of teardown engineers, publishing informative, in-depth reports on the inner workings of newly-released gadgets such as the Magic Leap One and the iPhone XS. These teardowns include chip analysis and explanations for complicated concepts (such as waveguides) in layman’s terms.
Identifying chips for the iPhone XS
Interests
I’m curious by nature; I enjoy exploring long-forgotten roads, trying non-mainstream food, and disassembling new smartphones! I like retro, well-designed mechanical machines; I own four typewriters and drive a Suzuki Samurai.
Driving the Sammy on Quatal Canyon road
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iPhone 5s battery & home button replacement
iPhone 5s Home Button
This step is used in multiple guides, and not all of them require the cable to be bent away. You can just leave it sitting there, disconnected.
You can try to drip some high concentration isopropyl alcohol along the battery edge to help loosen the adhesive.
Hi Ashley,
There should definitely be screw holes to secure the assembly to the new display. If you purchased the part from iFixit, please contact our customer support, and we will sort things out for you!
Hey Ted,
This is a general guide for battery adhesive, so I can’t tell which phone you’re working on. Which phone are you replacing the battery for?
Hi mpc,
The tape does not need to be thick at all. You can use standard double-sided tape, or the fancier stretch-release adhesive.
Hi James!
Yes, the part listed in the “parts required” section is a screen replacement, which includes the top glass and the OLED panel underneath it. The Pixel 3a uses an OLED panel instead of a LCD. If nothing else broke on your phone, then doing this repair should fix your display issues.
While the repair is not as difficult as some of the other Pixel phones, you should read through the guide to get a sense of the overall procedure.
Good luck on your repairs!
Hey John! I’m glad the repair worked out for you!
From our research, applying heat does soften the adhesive strips, but it also causes them to lose structural integrity and break more easily. That’s why we normally suggest using heat after the strips are already broken. Removing the Taptic Engine definitely takes a few extra steps, but we feel that it gives fixers the best chance of pulling out the adhesive strips intact.
Good question! It depends on which guide you are completing. If you are replacing the screen, you do need to complete steps 21-30, in order to remove the front assembly and transfer it to your replacement screen. The front assembly contains the Face ID hardware, which is biometrically linked to the logic board.
Now, if you are completing other guides, you may not need to remove the front assembly. Guides should have the steps slotted in only if they are pertinent to the procedure.
Hi Charles!
The hole you are referring to is a microphone hole, but don’t worry—the microphone isn’t damaged. (Reference image) The red arrow points to the inlet hole and channel, and the red box marks the actual microphone on the motherboard. Sound enters into the channel, turns at an L-bend, and passes through a waterproof membrane in order to reach the microphone. Inserting the SIM tool would push against the end of the L-bend. The waterproof membrane and microphone are out of reach. For more details, check this blog post.
Yes! The SIM trays are compatible.
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