はじめに
iPhoneを使用すると、バッテリー残量がすぐになくなりますか？使用年数が長くなれば、バッテリーフル充電ができなくなります。Appleのバッテリーは500回充電すると容量全体の80％までしか充電できなくなります。すると大多数のユーザーにとっては18−24ヶ月でその時期を迎えるということです。バッテリーに使用されているリチウムイオンの質が低下したとき、iPhoneの動きが遅くなります。このガイドを使ってバッテリーを交換し、iPhoneをベストパフォーマンスの状態に回復しましょう。
バッテリーが膨張している場合はこのガイドに従って適切にバッテリーを処理してください。
ご注意:この修理ガイドを完成した後、iPhoneディスプレイ上に、”正規品”バッテリーの使用に関する警告が表示されます。 これはオリジナルのAppleパーツを使用しても同じです。
iPhoneが通常通り機能する場合、この表示は無視してください。使用上に問題はありません。しかしながらバッテリー交換後、「バッテリーの健康状態」の項目が表示されなくなります。Appleは、ご自身(第三者)でバッテリーを交換した場合、この機能を無効にしています。
バッテリーのパフォーマンスを最適化するために、インストールしたバッテリーのキャリブレーションを行なってください。100％まで充電した後、プラグに少なくとも2時間繋いだ状態にします。それからシャットダウンするまで放電をしてください。最後にバッテリーを一気に100％まで充電します。
必要な工具と部品
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解体を始める前に、iPhoneの電源を切ってください。
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iPhone下側の底から、2本の6.7 mm長さのペンタローブネジを外します。
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各ペンタローブネジのネジ頭の下に黒いゴム製ガスケットがついています。これは防塵防水性能を最大限に強化するためです。このガスケットのコンディションをチェックしてください。必要であれば、再組立の際にネジを交換してください。
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iPhoneの画面全体に、透明な梱包用テープを重ね合わせます。
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次の手順でうまく吸盤が装着しない場合は、強力なテープ（ガムテープなど）を持ち手に折って、代わりにスクリーンを持ち上げてみてください。
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青いハンドルを後方に引き、リバースクランプのアームのロックを解除します。
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iPhoneの左/右側の端に向けてアームをスライドします。
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吸盤カップを、ホームボタンすぐ上のiPhoneの下端付近に装着します。上部に一つ、下部に1つずつ取り付けます。
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両側のカップをしっかりと押し付けて、取り付けたい位置に装着します。
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青いハンドルを手前に引くと、アームがロックされます。
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ハンドルを時計回りに360度回転させ、カップが両側をストレッチするまで回し続けます。
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吸盤の位置が合っていることを確認してください。装着位置がずれ始めたら、吸盤を少し緩めてアームを装着し直してください。
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iOpenerを熱し、リバースクランプのアームに通します。
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iOpenerをiPhoneの下端に重なるように折ります。
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1分ほど待つと、粘着剤が剥がれ、隙間ができます。
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オープニングピックをスクリーンではなく、スクリーンとプラスチック製ベゼルの下の隙間に差し込みます。スクリーンには差し込まないでください。
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次の3つの手順をスキップします。
Please UPDATE THIS STEP to say 'insert the opening pick underneath the PLASTIC FRAME OF THE SCREEN' and not the screen. Way too many people are taking this as the way to do it then posting their screen looks different when it's open when they've actually removed the screen leaving the frame in place. It's not rocket science.
Thanks for the suggestion! We updated this step to clarify that.
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ヘアドライヤーもしくはヒートガンを使うか、iOpenerを準備してiPhoneの下部端に約1分間載せます。留められた接着剤が柔らかくなります。
An alternative to the Iopener or heat gun is to heat water to EXACTLY 80 degrees F (cooking thermometer is great for this) and pour into a reinforced ziplock type bag. Leave the bag on the screen, but be sure that none of the hot water rests on the zipper portion, as the water is hot enough to soften that seal and leak out on to your device! This meat had is my personal favorite as the heat is distributed very equally and precisely as compared to a heat gun, but is more accessible than the Iopener.
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吸盤カップをしっかりと引き上げます。リアケースとフロントパネルの間に僅かな隙間が生じるまで一定の力で引っ張ります。
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隙間に開口ピックをスクリーンとプラスチックベゼルの間の下の隙間に差し込みます。スクリーン自体には差し込まないでください。
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開口ピックを本体下側の左端周辺までスライドします。それから、ディスプレイに留められた接着剤を切開しながら端に沿って本体上側に向けて移動します。
I think it's important to note that depending on how a screen was damaged, make sure to insert the pic under the black bezel directly under the actual screen. This bezel is a frame around the digitizer. I unknowingly inserted the pic between the bezel and the screen, and separated them both. I did this all the way around the phone. So I basically had to struggle to keep together two different sections of the display assembly because of this mishap, until I removed all the ribbon connectors. It made things much more difficult.
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iPhoneの下側端にオープニングピックを再度差し込みます。接着剤を切断しながら本体下側の右端より上部に向けてスライドします。
My replacement screen for the XR has a black rim but it looks pink. Is that normal?
Step 11 says not to insert your pick around the right side to avoid damaging cables, then Step 12 says to insert it on the right side. Help, I'm confused!
Hi there!
Thank you for the feedback! The wording in step 11 was definitely ambiguous, so we have changed it! You only need to avoid the marked spots rather than the right edge.
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iPhoneのディスプレイを左側から右側に向けて(本のページをめくるように)開きます。
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作業中、ディスプレイが邪魔にならないよう、ディスプレイを立てかけるための衝立てを準備してください。
sure looks like the "hinge" is on the right hand side to me.. not left...!
Doug Trout - 返信
If you leave the suction cup attached to the screen during the “hinging” process, it makes for a very handy holder for the screen until it’s completely detached.
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バッテリーコネクタのブラケットを固定している1.2 mm Y000ネジを3本外します。
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ブラケットを取り出します。
Definitely make sure all three lobes of your tool are aligned before use (it’s a little harder to tell with this style of bit) and apply even and adequate pressure to ensure it grabs as you spin the driver to prevent disfiguring the lobes/slot of the screw head.
Unfortunately my Y000 tool was perhaps not the best fit (tolerance a bit off) in these screws and I ended up stripping out the heads of all three of these. I started to panic but after I sanded the tip of my Y000 bit down a little with super fine grit (1000CW-C) sand paper to flatten the domed tip (visible with macro lens) and give it a bit more bite I was able to remove and reinstall without issue—in fact I had to remove and install them twice since I forgot my adhesive tape during reassembly, so the screws survived and the sanded bit worked.
+1 to above comment. I bought a cheap kit from Amazon and the Y000 screw driver is not good for this job. I’m concerned that I may have disfigured the heads and i type this comment in the midst of my fix :D Be gentle and assess if you can remove at least one screw with your driver before rummaging through all three and other similar screws holding display connector as well.
Shan Potti - 返信
Update to above comment. I got hold of a Y0.8 screw driver bit (lucky to find an ORIA screw driver kit in my office) and it works like wonders :) Now back to work…
Shan Potti - 返信
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スパッジャーの先端を使って、バッテリーコネクタをソケットからまっすぐ引き抜きます。
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コネクタをロジックボードから離すように曲げて固定します。アクシデントでロジックボードに接続してしまい、作業中、電源が入らないようにするためです。
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ディスプレイコネクタのブラケットを固定している1.2 mm Y000ネジを2本外します。
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ブラケットを取り出します。
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スパッジャーの先端を使って、ディスプレイケーブルコネクタの接続を外します。
The new display cable isn’t snapping in but I was just able to snap in the old one. Did I break the new one somehow?
Same it is really frustrating, just keeps slipping up and its bound to get damaged
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リアケースにロジックボードコネクタのブラケットを固定している5本のネジを外します。
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1.3 mm #000 プラスネジー1本
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1.5 mm #000 プラスネジー1本
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1.2 mm Y000 ネジー3本
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ブラケットを外します。
I’m not sure it makes much if any difference, but we went ahead and swapped the order for you guys. Thanks for your comments!
I just repaired another XR, and you are right! It doesn’t make any differnerce in the order these screws come out. I still damaged this fragile piece. As I work on more of these, I’ll figure out a way to remove this screw without damaging the clip. For now everyone, just use extra caution when removing the 1.3mm phillips screw! Thanks Jeff
I’ve now done at least 6 of these so far and I have fairly consistent good results by taking the 2 Philips head screws out first, then doing the Y screws.
Stow -
Is this piece important for the repair if broken? I have broken it on a home repair. What is it used for? Is it a grounding connection or is it completely unimportant. More information needed please
I’m wondering that too. Is this piece important?
I can confirm that taking out the 1.3 mm screw first then the 1.5 mm screw works the best. If done correctly, you should be able to to remove the rest of the screws and pull the panel off with the clip still attached to the panel. For reassembly, start with the 1.5 mm screw then the 1.3 mm screw.
I don’t remove the small screw at all. I just slide out the metal cover plate and slide back in to reassemble.
this is what i have done as well. Care is still needed to avoid damaging this part. However, it is seemingly far less prone to damage or loss and thus less risky for this repair process.
I too broke this shield. In looking over this problem I believe it’s best to loosen, but not remove, either screw first then the other. To be clear, loosen the red or yellow screw but only just to break it free, then the second screw. Then remove both and the others and the shield should remain in one piece. I put it back with the broken part (on the red screw) and made sure the two are in contact so there’s conductivity as these shields serve a purpose other than just holding in connectors. My phone works fine with this fix.
Is this small bracket important if broken??
Mine is broken
Mine is broken and my apple pay doesn’t work. Something to do with NFC antenna this little clip??
I'm guessing so. I replaced a screen on a phone I bought from a friend. I noticed this bracket was broken when I disassembled the phone but didn't think much of it. When I reassembled it my NFC also does not work. Bummer. A lot of people in these comments have asked if it is crucial that this bracket be connected. Can someone from iFixit or other please reply to those comments?
Kyaw-Zin is right because the shield contains of two tin parts. But there is another option:
1. Unscrew the yellow and orange screws first.
2. Lift the shield gently that it can turn about 20° anticlockwise.
3. Open the red screw and let the shield turn with it the first degrees.
The first time I did this repair, I didn’t see the comments ahead of time and broke the bracket, even removing the 1.3mm screws first. The second time I did the repair, I was prepared and being extra careful, but the simple act of turning the 1.3mm screw head was enough to break it. If I ever have to do this repair again, I’ll just leave the screw in and try to slide the plate out with the screw (and bracket, hopefully) still in tact, as per Kyaw-Zin Win.
None of the screw driver bits I got fits the 1.3mm and 1.5mm screws. How do I remove them?
Same issue as above. The bits provided in the kit do not work with the 1.3mm and 1.5mm screws
Further to above comment about bit not working. Had to go and purchase another PH000 from Home Depot and that worked
I’ve broken that little bracket attached to the red screw. Is it important and can I get a replacement????? Thanks all
steve.arfa - 返信
Broken the clip. Is this important??
Don't remove the 1.3 Phillips screw! Twisting this screw will break the smaller bracket that is clipped to the larger. Remove all the other screws. Block the smaller bracket from moving as you gently slide the larger bracket horizontally toward the battery until free. The smaller bracket can stay in place while the screen is replaced. When reassembling, support the small bracket by backing with a spudger or similar tool.
I just broke the smaller bracket also :( I didn´t notice these comments until now :(
It looks like part of the antenna for NFC, as all except NFC works on my iPhone now.
It should be repairable using some wire wrap wire, either twisted around the two screws that connected that part of the bracket (or soldered in place). I will try and report back if it works.
Success!! I managed to re-construct the small arm of the bracket by screwing the 1.3mm screw back in with some 0.3mm enamel wire soldered into what was left of the small bracket arm on the screw, then the other end of the enamel wire I wrapped under the 1.5 wire screw's head (enamel exposed to bare metal), then screwed both screws down. also I lifted up the small metal arm with a screw driver (to make sure it reconnects with the display grounding square) ..and NFC worked again (slightly different antenna pattern mind (need to place cards slightly higher up the rear of the phone). Anyway works again :)
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スパッジャーの先端を使って、ソケットからフロントセンサアセンブリのコネクタを引き抜きます。
During testing, make sure your proximity sensor is not on upside down, as it’s easy to connect upside down. Your phone will boot loop if it’s on incorrectly.
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ディスプレイアセンブリを取り出します。
unclear if this is where screen removal ends
I had the same question, but the answer is yes. Steps 21-30 are removing parts from the original screen that need to be reattached onto the new screen. You are no longer working inside the frame, but on the back of the screen itself.
I apologize for missing these comments initially, but yes that’s correct, the screen is removed now and the rest of the guide goes on to other parts, either in the phone or on the back of the screen. Good luck with the repair!
The alternate method of removing the battery should be highlighted as a standard option. There is so much more work and potential to damage the parts than if you left them in place and carefully with plenty of heat remove the battery. I so wish I had seen this before!
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Taptic Engineとスピーカーを固定しているブラケットから次の7本のネジを外します。
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1.4 mmプラスネジー3本
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1.7 mmプラスネジー2本
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1.9 mmプラスネジー1本
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1.6 mmプラスネジー1本
Why remove all this stuff for the battery? Is it necessary to do any of steps from here to 32 for the battery at all?
Removing these parts facilitates removing the bottom adhesive tabs but is not necessary. If you remove the upper adhesive tabs, then heat the backside of the lower ones (which you do if you couldn't get the tabs out), the battery comes out easily. Removes 14 steps from this procedure.
teamhudson - 返信
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下側スピーカーを固定している5本のネジを外します。
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2.8 mmスタンドオフネジー1本
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2.3 mmスタンドオフネジー1本
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2.3 mm プラスネジー1本
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1.8 mmプラスネジー1本
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1.6 mmプラスネジー1本
I was able to get the 2.8mm standoff screw out with a 1.5 mm flat head from my iFixit kit but was not able to find anything to get the 2.3mm screw out. Buying the standoff screwdriver begrudgingly. I wish I'd known about this before I started.
leeprobert - 返信
Recommend PH00 for the 1.8 and PH000 for the rest.
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スピーカーを取り出します。
you may be able to reuse the gasket if you heat the glue. You may want to consider this because I can’t find the gasket through ifixit.
do we have to remove all the extra stuff such as this if we're just replacing screen display? what is the importance?
If you want to get the surface prepped nicely, tightly roll up the corner of a KimTech wipe, add some IP, then gently use your spudger tip to wipe excess gasket material from the area. Take your time!
Tal Pipkin - 返信
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バッテリーの右側下の端から接着タブを剥がしていきます。
Yes I think this is very discouraged to use tweezers to do this task (like it is shown on the picture), applying a force to pull the adhesives can easily result in an unintended action on the battery. These adhesive do generally break anyway. Better use the dental floss solution as mentioned in step 41.
Welp fellas extra careful on this part, I wasn't enough and punctured the battery which led to a small fire reaction, luckily with only 15% of charge it barely did anything. EXTRA CAREFUL I REPEAT TAKE IT SLOW
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接着ストリップがバッテリーの下で切断してしまい、リアケースに付着したままの場合、iOpenerもしくはヘアドライヤーを準備して、バッテリー裏のリアケースを直接温めます。この作業をすると、接着剤が柔らかくなります。
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iPhoneを裏返して、デンタルフロスや細いギター弦を使ってバッテリーの下に通します。
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糸(弦)を左右に、鋸を引くイメージで交互に引きます。バッテリー全体に糸を通せば、接着剤がゆっくりと変形してきます。忍耐もって作業を続ければ、バッテリーは外れます。バッテリーを変形させたり、ダメージを与えないようにご注意ください。
Personally, I would recommend using drops of isopropyl alcohol. This softens most kind of sticky things. Then pry the battery out. Since you're replacing the battery, damaging it shouldn't be a worry.
As long as you don't puncture it as i did lol
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iPhoneからバッテリーを取り出します。
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バッテリーを装着して、接続を外してからデバイスの再組み立てを継続してください。
Changed the Battery but the new battery shows Service symbol..what to do?
Just replaced the battery, but the new one is draining like crazy. Even faster then the old one? Did I get a faulty battery?
I might have the same issue ill try calibrating it and force restarting.
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新しい交換パーツと元のパーツを比較してください。
- 残ったコンポーネントを移植したり、新しいパーツの裏の接着剤を取り除く必要があります。
デバイスを再組み立てする際は、上記の作業を逆順に進めてください。
電子部品の廃棄物は、R2またはe-Steward認定リサイクラーへお持ちください。
修理が予定どおりに進みませんでしたか？トラブルシュートの助けとして私たちのアンサーコミュニティを参照してください。
新しい交換パーツと元のパーツを比較してください。
- 残ったコンポーネントを移植したり、新しいパーツの裏の接着剤を取り除く必要があります。
デバイスを再組み立てする際は、上記の作業を逆順に進めてください。
電子部品の廃棄物は、R2またはe-Steward認定リサイクラーへお持ちください。
修理が予定どおりに進みませんでしたか？トラブルシュートの助けとして私たちのアンサーコミュニティを参照してください。
110 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:
100%
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翻訳を始める ›
12 件のコメント
Hello and Good morning please I wanted to know if iPhone 8 battery can be fixed in iPhone XR?
Not sure what you’re asking; if your asking if the iPhone 8 battery will fit in an Xr, or vise-versa, the answer is no.
After battery replacement, battery health is disabled. Will a factory reset reenable the battery health?
Hi Jon,
Unfortunately, Apple disables battery health for non-Apple battery repairs. I’ll make sure to add this into the guide intro.
What about the constant repeating message that “could not check if battery is genuine”. Does it stop showing up on the screen?
After you clear the message it will only come up again when the iPhone is restarted.
The step by step guide shows and tells you in detail how to take it out and how to replace it.
Instructions were clear enough, though lengthy and often redundant. I disassembled my phone, replaced the battery, and closed it up in about two hours (first-timer).
For the love of God, iFixit, you need to do a much better job linking videos for procedures like replacing screen adhesive in your instructions. I eventually found one for applying the adhesive, but it was still little confusing so I looked at your YouTube video. That video, is no longer even relevant because the procedure shown in the video does not match with the current adhesive kit you see. Or, at least, sure doesn't look the same.
Anyway, I encourage anybody trying this to purchase and extra screen adhesive or two. you'll probably need them.
this is before i buy the battery replacement kit, i was wondering if i need to buy the adhesive battery strips or if it comes with the kit
Hey, Danke für die ausführliche Anleitung. Es ist nicht der erste Akku, den ich in einem iPhone tausche und ich komme immer gut mit den Anleitungen klar.
Ich hätte eine Bitte / Empfehlung falls ihr diese oder andere Anleitungen zu neueren iPhones nochmal aktualisiert:
Ich vermute es geht nicht nur mir so, dass es relativ komplex ist, die neue Klebedichtung richtig zu befestigen. Hierfür wären Tipps und ggf. Bilder hilfreich..
One of my gaskets was as shown in your second photo, the other had been worked into the threads (as if smeared) probably from the factory and was completely unusable.
In place of replacements (unsure of where to purchase) I just used a clear silicone caulking on both screws upon reassembly to offer at least some water seal. I wish these gaskets were included with the gasket waterproofing sealant kit!
Erica - 返信
Is there any place to buy these screw gaskets? I haven’t seen it mentioned anywhere but one of mine was pretty much chewed up. Silicone should work but I’d prefer the oem solution.
Chilinh Nguyen - 返信
I found a place on Amazon that sells them. It's cheapest to get a full set of screws than to get just these. $5-$6 USD.
J Olin -
Can it be dead?
Lulu navarro - 返信
If I transfer the data from the old to the new battery with an icopy, don't I get an error message?
David Julian Krause - 返信
how am i supposed to know if the battery is below 25% if the screen won't turn on?
Beth Jackson - 返信