Chris Halliwell

I've been trying to source a screen for one of these. Anyone got any ideas?

I have the same problem after replacing new digitiser and LCD. From boot up LCD works fine but if I turn it off then back on from the power button, it will not display the LCD, just the back light. Could it be a random faulty LCD? I doubt it as it was new and it does work from a re-boot.

I have the same problem after replacing new digitiser and LCD. From boot up LCD works fine but if I turn it off from the power button, it will not display the LCD, just the back light. Could it be a random faulty LCD, I doubt it as it was new and it does work from a re-boot. Did you manage to get to the bottom of this Jonathon?

Contact Amazon as this is an internal fault. I have no idea where you are in the world but in the UK we have what is called The Consumer Rights Act 2015 (prior to this it was The Sale of Goods Act). https://www.gov.uk/government/publicatio...-rights-act-2015/consumer-rights-act-2015 Basically the company that sold you this device is responsible by LAW to either Repair it or Replace it if it fails to do what you purchased it for 6 years (this is irrespective of the warranty supplied by the manufacturer). If you were lucky enough to live in the UK and you purchased it from Amazon direct, they should be very helpful. If they are not, just ask them if they are aware of “The Consumer Rights Act” and then ask to speak to a supervisor. If you are in the EU, there are different rules but they still have cover for 2 years. https://europa.eu/youreurope/citizens/co...-returns/index_en.htm I have no idea about elsewhere in the world but try Amazon customer services. Be polite and tell them the unit has never been...

That's for a Kindle 3rd generation, not a Kindle Voyage. It's completely different.

I would just like to add something as I have spent the best part of three days trying to sort through this one. I have tried all sorts of things from strips of insulating tape cut and placed over the sensor to colouring in the window on the glass. I couldn't work it out, each time I put the phone back together, the proximity sensor still didn't work. Finally I worked it out and hopefully this will help other people as well. We repair, refurbish and sell used iPhones http://www.reo-technology.co.uk and had come across this problem a few times in the early days of our business but recently, using better quality digitizers, we hadn't seen this for a while. I did however, as part of a promotional gimmick buy a pretty Blue front and back to customise a phone. As I said, in the early days I had tried loads of different things, many suggested through this website and many others to try and work out this problem. Some say software issues, some say hardware. OK to clear this up, my logical guess it's a hardware...

It’s easier if you remove all 4 screws across the small top panel.

Lead-free solder paste. Small amounts are sold in syringes, eBay is a good source

The circuit board will need some heat prior to using a hot-air solder station. You will need to remove both cameras before subjecting to a pre-heat. Pre-heat to between 150 and 200c then apply enough heat to reflow the solder joints. A pair of tweezers will help remove the old USB socket. Once removed desolder the throu-holes and clean the surface mount pads. Apply small amounts of solder paste on the solder pads and fill the trou-holes, before placing the new USB socket . The PCB will need pre-heating again before finally using the hot-air solder gun to flow the solder joints. Check SMD pads and throu-holes have all flowed properly.

No, the touch circuitry is built into the motherboard.

Make sure you have a completely flat area, any bits of glass left will create a pivot point under the new glass. Buy thin double sided tape, 25mm width is good and apply to the back up f the chassis. Obviously check your replacement screen works before applying the adhesive.

Can you give us an update on compatibility with Amazon Voyage?

Thanks in advance

My guess is that the e-ink TFT screen is bonded to the glass digitizer with a UV curing optically clear adhesive. The chance of separating the broken digi and the e-ink part without cracking the TFT are close to impossible. I know they use a very strong thin wire system to separate LCD's on small devices like phones but not sure if the e-ink screen is strong. I have managed to source a couple of recycled working screens complete with digi and e-ink together for some customers. As soon as we have them here and done the repairs, we will experiment on getting one of the damaged ones apart to see if we can replace just the digitizer. REO Technology Ltd. www.reotech.co.uk

I'm looking for glass digitizer also.... Any clues?