In this case go with the unit version that was in the console. I’m not sure whether you have the digital unit or the disc / Blu-ray? The failures seem to be from operating temps causing component failures over time? A new firmware could have already have been rolled out (or not) and just make sure to limited idle run time. Make sure there is plenty of space around the console for the fan to dissipate internal heat. The other version is physically compatible but might lack components that limit the amount of power in certain situations. The main thing is not exposing it to extra heat via poor ventilation. Max frame rate will cause a surge in power also. Hope this helps. I’d like to know what you do and how it works out if you can update us?

Yes. It could be as simple as a connector becoming loose or a quick calibration. There was some laptop software that would do a complete calibration. You could get it from DJI website. I have had to replace broken components but first I would do a gps and IMU calibration.

Have you done the full Calibration? I havent had that particular problem, maybe it’s interference?

Trace the lines back and make sure all connections are sealed and none of the lines and are crimped. Did you install new fuel filter and or fuel pump? Check filter is oriented in the right direction ->. When you get in truck turn key to on position and then back to off position three (3) times (you should hear the the fuel pump engage) then try to start.

This is the solution under normal conditions. Did anything else happen to the computer?

The problem could likely be due to the 'wobbly' coupling leading to damage with the entire drive transmission . The issues would eventually cause motor to wear out. Causing the problems you described. This would require a new motor, and a new drive shaft system.

iPad Touchscreen Fix - Foam Lining Replacement: I've been working with a repair for an iPad 4 for a few days. It's not my first iPad or Apple repair for that matter. I did however learn something new after the new touchscreen digitizer was unresponsive. After examining the old screen I noticed the small outlining of foam with makes a rectangle around the inside of the screen. I have noticed it before but never needed to investigate because my previous repairs worked. The foam was torn, higher in places, and completely gone from others. I deceided to cut 1mm strips (enough to go around the display) but not before dividing a 2mm rectangle to make it thinner, like cutting a slice of bread to make 2 thin slices. After appling this to the outside of the digitizer contact with double sided red tape the iPad worked like a charm. If all else fails, you might want to try this. I have already cut all the gray foam that comes with the parts I have ordered in the past, just to ready for the next iPad. Maybe this will...

I assume you posted this quite some time ago and maybe someone else can benefit from this info but the price of the replacement parts has declined drastically. You shopuld be able to afford any parts you need to replace. Won't be but the funnest cash you spend at least you can avoid an awkward situation with your buddy.

Have you had any luck finding the used logic board? I have a couple if you still are in the market.

I still have not figured out why the LCD stopped working after the touchscreen recieved a vert small fracture in the glass. The crack didn't even reach the surface. Everything else appeared to be working fine, lights, sounds, power on/off.