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My 2.0 GHz Aluminum Macbook's SATA SuperDrive (HLDT GS21N) no longer accepts media - recorded CD/DVD or blank CD/DVD. I can h...

Since you formatted the drive under a different OS, the formatting tool may have used a partition scheme that's incompatible with OSX booting. In order to boot an Intel Mac running OSX, the boot drive needs to be GUID partitioned (not MBR as Windows uses), and HFS+ formatted (HFS+ journaled is the default format for later versions of OSX). I suspect that the partition mapping a formatting utility puts on a drive is the default partition used by the boot OS, unless you specify otherwise beforehand. If the Linux tool you're using doesn't include an option for a GUID partition map, you may need to format the drive from a Mac, using Disk Utility.

PC3-12800 1600 MHz RAM is faster than PC3-10600 1333 MHz RAM, but that’s not relevant to your problem. The RAM bus (the pipeline connecting your RAM to your CPU) is 1333 MHz; faster RAM won’t make your computer any faster, because the CPU can’t talk to the RAM any faster than it’s designed to do. RAM tends to be downward-compatible; faster RAM typically will scale down to a slower bus speed, as long as it’s the same type of RAM (PC2/PC3/PC4 etc.) and fits in the same socket. But the RAM scales down to the speed of the computer - the computer doesn’t speed up to the bus speed of the RAM. If you suspect you might be buying a newer PC3-12800 computer in the foreseeable future (like a 2012 mini, or a 2012 MacBook Pro), then it might make sense to get the faster RAM, so you have the option of moving it to the newer computer later. I suggest you take the RAM you’ve already bought, install it in your mini, and see if it works. If it does, then enjoy it and move on. RAM is a commodity: If it works, different RAM won’...

Yes, you can replace the SSD in a 2017 model MacBook Air. The socketed PCIe SSD that fits Late 2013-Early 2017 MacBook Airs will also fit Late 2013-Mid 2015 MacBook Pros. If you’re shopping on the used market, be sure to get a 4x card, which is the speed your computer is designed to use. Pre-2015 laptops use a slower 2x card; it will work in your system, but you're throwing speed away. iFixit sells both recycled Apple SSDs and new replacements from OtherWorld Computing: (1) MacBook Air 11" (2013-2015) 13" (2013-2017) MacBook Pro Retina 13" and 15" (2015) SSD (2) OWC Aura Pro X SSD iFixit doesn’t have any guides for the 2017 MacBook Air, but it’s basically just a speed bump of the earlier Early 2015 MacBook Air. Most of the repair guides for the 2015 model should work with the 2017 model, as long as you use the replacement parts for the newer model: (1) MacBook Air 13" Early 2015のSSD交換 The 2017 MBA is the most recent Apple laptop with a socketed drive. All the Thunderbolt 3/USB-C era MacBook Pros (2016 and new...

If the screen lights up and the operating system loads, and it gets to a desktop, then the computer is booting up. What it's not doing is staying powered up once you've booted up. The first thing I would try is resetting the power manager/SMC controller, just in case this is just a system glitch: How to reset the System Management Controller (SMC) on your Mac I doubt that's the problem, but the fact that disconnecting/reconnecting the battery seems to change things may be power management-related. But really, it sounds like the computer is overheating, possibly due to one or more of the following issues: (1) Clogged or failing fans (2) Disintegrating heatsink compound between the CPU/GPU and the attached heatsink (3) Clogged air vents I'm guessing that when you try to start up the computer, the fans are making a lot of noise. Depending on your environment, fans and air vents can get clogged with dust or pet hair; cat hair is particularly bad, as it's usually finer than dog hair, and can get deeper into the ma...

With a spill, you can't be sure where the liquid has gone - it gets everywhere. Once it gets on the circuit boards, it can start to corrode the electronic circuitry. The idea of a deep cleaning (with purified alcohol or a similar cleaner) is to remove both the liquid and any residue the liquid carried in suspension. In the case of water, the concern would be minerals; in the case of beer, wine, soda or juice, the concern will be sugars, which can burn/caramelize with the heat of the circuit, and cause further damage. iFixit's Electronics Water Damage guide is a good start; also the MacBook Core Duo Logic Board Replacement guide.

Have you tried a different charging adapter? Just because the connections look fine doesn't mean they are fine. The MagSafe connectors are magnetized; there can be metallic debris stuck on the connectors. There can also be nonmetallic dirt/grease etc. on the connectors, and it may interfere with the electrical connection. It's also possible that the pins on the MagSafe connector may be bent, and aren't connecting cleanly with the charge points on the computer. And of course, the cable connecting the MagSafe connector to the power block is very thin and very fragile. Apple has a tech note on MagSafe troubleshooting: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT203207

According to the ever-invaluable MacTracker: (1) Original OS: iOS 5.0 (9A334) (2) Maximum OS: iOS 9.3.5 (13G36) According to an Apple Community Specialist on Apple's Support Forum, as of February 2016 you could use Apple Music with 9.2.1, so you should still be able to access at least some of the Apple Music feature set with 9.3.5, at least for now. As with any server-side resource, there's always the risk that the service provider will change the service in the future in ways that require newer versions of the client-side player apps than you can run. Much of Apple's website is no longer viewable in Safari unless you have OSX 10.10/10.11 or iOS 9; the same process has happened with iTunes streaming media. I'd assume that eventually Apple will change something at their end which your older player won't recognize; with luck, that won't happen until your old phone dies for good. You might also want to be selective about which resources you use, given the 802.11n WiFi/3G cellular speeds of the device. High-bandw...

If both the keyboard and the trackpad are out, one possibility is a damaged upper case cable. It's a ribbon cable that attaches the trackpad to the logic board. Since the keyboard connects to the trackpad through a separate cable, both systems can be affected by a damaged cable. The power button working makes this less likely, since that button runs through the same cable; but it's possible that some traces are shorted out while others still work. In any case, a cable is the cheapest and easiest thing to replace. If it works, great; if not, you haven't thrown a lot of time/effort/money at the fix.

The only way to upgrade the internal storage is to swap in a logic board from the same model with a larger storage module. As other posters have mentioned, it's possible to unsolder the storage chip from the logic board and solder in a larger one from the same model/generation - if you can find a larger module and do the solder/replacement without wrecking the logic board altogether, or can find someone you can trust to do the work. This has been true for every model/generation of the iPhone. However, if the goal is simply to get more mobile storage attached to the iPhone you already have, there are external options for adding extra storage: (1) Mophie has made a line of charger cases called "Space Packs": A protective case with a secondary battery, plus 8-64 GB of built-in flash storage, depending on the model. They've recently had models available for the 5/5S/SE, for the 6/6S and for the 6+/6S+; I've seen used units for 4/4S listed on eBay and my local Craigslist. SanDisk has a similar case called the iXpa...

iFixit is out of stock of Unibody MacBook Pro 13" LVDS cables at the moment, but PowerBookMedic currently has several different variations. Best to confirm the generation of computer you're dealing with first, since the cable lengths and connectors may vary.

How strong is the adhesive on the iFixit replacement battery, compared to the Apple OEM adhesive? Are we looking at a similar painful extraction process if/when we pull the replacement battery?

For that matter, is an Apple-esque strong adhesive actually necessary in this application? Double-sided tape is usually weaker; it might be a little thinner than the adhesive layer, and certainly far more user serviceable. Would tape be sufficient to hold the battery in place? Once you've got the bottom case screwed back on, the battery is immobilized anyway.

The epoxy cementing the rubber pad to the aluminum base is a lot stronger than the rubber itself. The rubber is likely to tear as you remove it; I had to use a putty knife to clear the screws. It's worth hanging onto the branding near the Ethernet ports, for future identification (model number, serial number, Ethernet ID, AirPort ID); you can fashion a replacement pad out of neoprene rubber.

In both the online and the PDF version, Steps 17-18 and Steps 29-30 are identical. At which stage should you actually remove the display screws?

I use a screw ID technique similar to griffn's; I print out the PDF version of the guide, then Scotch-tape each screw type to the guide at the step where the screw was removed. The screws are then distinguished by size and type at the point where they need to be reinstalled.

I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

When reinstalling the battery connector/cable, placement of the connector is critical. If the connector isn't positioned accurately, contact with the battery terminals won't be completed. The battery connector cover will help you align the connector, but there will still be a little leeway as you screw the cover down. Position the battery first, to adjust the connector's position; then remove the battery and tighten the cover screws down. You may even want to try plugging the computer into the AC charger before completing the cover attachment, to ensure that battery is charging and the connector is correctly positioned.