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修理を始めるには

修理する権利

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はじめに

このガイドを使って、凹みやダメージの入ったリアケースを交換したり、オシャレなリアケースに交換するために取り外します。リアケースはデバイス全体用の筐体で、リアケースを交換することはiPhoneの内部コンポーネント全てを移植する必要があります。

次のパーツを交換する場合にもこのガイドがご利用できます。

  • NFCブラケット
  • スピーカー用マウント
  • マイク用マウント
  • フロントパネルクリップ
  1. iPhoneを分解する前に、バッテリーを25%以下まで消費してください。充電されたリチウムイオンバッテリーは、もしアクシデントで穴が空くと引火したり爆発する恐れがあります。
    • iPhoneを分解する前に、バッテリーを25%以下まで消費してください。充電されたリチウムイオンバッテリーは、もしアクシデントで穴が空くと引火したり爆発する恐れがあります。

    • 分解する前に、iPhoneの電源をオフにします。

    • Lightningコネクターの両隣にある、iPhone下部の側面に留められた2本の3.4 mm P2ペンタロープネジを取り外します。

    Hi, just got the repair kit that came with IPhone 6S battery. I felt that there’s no explanation on which tool to use to remove the two 3.4mm P2 Pentalobe screws. It’s not helpful just to say “Remove the two 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone, next to the Lightning connector. “. It’s more important to explain how and what tool to use. The repair tool kit tools were not marked at all and it’s not right to assume that people know which tool or part to use. Please kindly address this issue. Thanks. Janet

    Janet Monaghen - 返信

    @beingchen For the P2 pentalobe screws you should use the driver bit marked P2. Might be a little hard to see but it’s there, etched into the side of the bit.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    It’s very clear which tool you need. As it says these are “3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws” - so you need a 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screwdriver…

    alexanderbrix1987 - 返信

    Just a P2 driver—3.4 mm is the length of the screw.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If you can’t identify which screwdriver in the kit to use, you probably shouldn’t be working on your phone. Just sayin’

    Keith Hockenbeck - 返信

    Is it ok to replace the battery if the phone screen is broken?

    Reem - 返信

    Of course! As long as the screen and battery are disconnected from the motherboard, you can replace anything!

    Charles Bejarano -

    is it possible to change my battery on my iphone 6s and use a battery that has been already used in another 6s

    morgan durnford - 返信

    Yeah it would work, but if the battery heath on the 2nd battery is bad, just get a new one.

    Charles Bejarano -

    @moe6802 Removing the battery can damage it, and it shouldn’t be used afterward. It may seem fine, but even minor battery damage can lead to a fire hazard. Not worth it for such a cheap part. If you need a battery, just get a new one.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    How do you discharge a battery? Do you just let the battery drain or is there something less time consuming that you can do?

    Matthew Petts - 返信

    There is no easy way to discharge the battery in “less time”. Perhaps the fastest way is to play a visually-complex modern game or otherwise make your phone do a lot of work.

    Lance J -

    So my phone screen is completely black causing me to see nothing that is on my screen. And the battery is above 25%, near 100%. What do I do??

    Jessica I - 返信

    you should post a question on the answers forum

    Max Li -

    you should post a question on the answers forum

    Max Li - 返信

    I can’t the screws with the P2, seems that the screws are stuck, what can i do?

    Alberto Jabiles - 返信

    My kit came with 3 screws. Are those to replace these 2 P2 screws? And what’s the third one for?

    Daniel Morse - 返信

    If it came with 3 screws, then it’s an extra one just in case if a replacement screw gets lost.

    Charles Bejarano -

    My display is cracked/broken and not functioning. The slide bar doesn’t work. How do I shut down my phone?

    Timothy Huss - 返信

    i have replaced several ipod batteries and laptop work, but these screws seem to loose but do not come out. how am i to remove them.shake the iphone?it seems the ioen is not in my kit, is that how to remove them?

    this seems idiotic but i remember some other system magnets that firt make your screws easier to keep, but this might be changed….any video? this seems 1st step blues!!!!

    makinfilms - 返信

    never ind ishook it… is that in the guide?….iopener is not in the kit……never was before is this an upsell? do i skip it? i dont have it

    makinfilms - 返信

    The following info is not given until step 21 in the instructions, and probably too late at that.

    DO NOT disconnect or reconnect any of the cables in this device until the battery itself has been disconnected!

    Don’t skip that step, intending to do it at the end, as you may damage the phone.

    ffissk - 返信

    2 thoughts:

    1) Really? Steps 14-17 are about disconnecting the battery first, and step 17 notes “so it doesn’t get reconnected while you work.” How’d you get to step 21 and miss 14-17?

    2) These pages are user-editable. (Probably (hopefully) “curated” by iFixit staff.) You should add a warning to step 17 (or step 24).

    Bass Clef -

    NOW THAT YOU’VE REMOVED 2 SCREWS, and

    BEFORE YOU SNEEZE them into oblivion, or under the refrigerator (which is the same in many houses)

    MAY I suggest:

    1) Obtain:

    — a piece of paper, such as normal printer paper (not too much writing on one side)

    — a piece of tape, not too sticky, like masking tape (duct tape would be bad)

    ——— 1-1.5 inches (2.5-4 cm) wide

    ——— 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) long

    — a pencil (or pen)

    2) Put the paper on the side of your work area

    3) Lay the tape, sticky side up, on the paper

    4) Fold each end of the tape (~1 inch/2.5cm) back under itself, so the folded part faces the paper. Press the folded-back tape onto the paper

    You now have Sneeze & Wind Insurance for your tiny bits!

    5) Put the 2 pentalobes end down on the top end of the tape, next to each other. Push them a little onto the tape so they stick

    6) Use your pencil to note on the paper next to the screws: “1. Pentalobes”

    Now you may proceed with dissassembly, without worrying about telling the 1.5mm from the 1.6mm screws.

    or about sneezing!

    Bass Clef - 返信

    My phone has a bad battery and a bad connector and I wasn’t able to get all of my photos before it died. Is there any chance I won’t lose them when I replace the battery? Or, is there any way to charge a 6s battery with a bad connector?

    Liz R - 返信

    There is a great chance that photos, which are stored to flash memory, which is solid state memory, which is not affected when power is lost, will be there, right where you left them, once you restore power to your device. You could install a partially charged battery into your phone and then retrieve the important things, like your photos, if you don’t intend to continue using the phone. Else look at replacing the lightning connector assembly. Here: iPhone 6s のLightningコネクターアセンブリの交換

    TimD -

  2. オプションとして、温めたiOpenerをiPhone本体の下側端に沿って、約1分間載せます。もしくはヘアドライヤーを当てます。
    • オプションとして、温めたiOpenerをiPhone本体の下側端に沿って、約1分間載せます。もしくはヘアドライヤーを当てます。

    • 熱によってディスプレイを固定している接着剤が柔らかくなり、開口しやすくなります。

    What about specifying the hot air temperature?

    Nicola Centrone - 返信

    The glue softens pretty easily, so the exact temperature isn’t critical. Get it slightly too hot to touch. If you have trouble, heat it a little more and try again.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    What temperature on the screen separator lcd machine and for how long?

    Manraj Gulati - 返信

    This is the first time I opened my 6s since it was purchased new four years ago. Even without heat, constant and firm works enough to be able to squeeze the flat edge of the spudger. From that point and without any additional pulling from the suction, twist the spudger gently to “walk” it open on both sides.

    Family Juinio - 返信

    I used a hand towel folded in half and a clothes iron on the cotton setting (med-high heat, no steam). Placing the doubled towel between the phone and the iron, I would set the iron down for about 20 seconds (my iron has a timer that beeps when left horizontal for too long). Lift the iron, check the temperature (aiming for just too hot to touch), reposition as needed, repeat. It took me a while, but that’s because I took my time not knowing how fast this would heat. All-in-all, about 2 minutes to reach the right temperature to loosen the adhesive (it IS tenacious).

    Sarah Wruck - 返信

    Holy. Redii eirhejbrd

    Andy Carson - 返信

    just been given a 6s to repair, for this stage would a hot water bottle work ??

    Steven James - 返信

    I heated a stone pestle in the air fryer, wrapped in a cloth.

    Ark - 返信

  3. 6sのディスプレイを開口するにはディスプレイ周囲の薄い接着タブを剥離しなければなりません。作業前に接着タブの交換用接着タブを用意してください。接着タブを交換しなくても修理は可能で、おそらく機能性の違いを感じることはありません。
    • 6sのディスプレイを開口するにはディスプレイ周囲の薄い接着タブを剥離しなければなりません。作業前に接着タブの交換用接着タブを用意してください。接着タブを交換しなくても修理は可能で、おそらく機能性の違いを感じることはありません。

    • 吸盤カップをディスプレイアセンブリの左側下部の端に当てます。

    • ホームボタンの上に吸盤カップを取り付けないでください。

    • ディスプレイのひび割れ状態が広範囲の場合は、透明の梱包テープを表面に貼ってください。吸盤カップが取り付けやすくなります。あるいは、吸盤カップの代わりに強力なガムテープを使用することもできます。全ての方法が上手くいかない場合は、吸盤カップに強力ボンドを壊れたスクリーンに付けて固めてください。

    Hello, I was wondering if there was a guide of how to replace the adhesive strips, thank you

    Pablo Reyes - 返信

    The suction cup will not work if you have a shattered screen. I put a tip of an exacto knife between the glass and side frame above the power connector, carefully pried up then used the spluger to pry the rest of the way up.

    johnmurphyjr - 返信

    Tape will work as well in order to create a smooth surface

    Nick Stine -

    Even tape didn’t work on my first shattered screen 6S disassembly. Had to reset to the exacto/thin blade technique.

    Peter Bovey - 返信

    For me, it seemed like I only had one shot at the suction cup. It stuck on firmly the first time, but I noticed in the instructions that it was placed more on the side. I detached my suction cup and repositioned it and now it doesn’t stay (sucked) on. Hmmm.

    Frank Terence - 返信

    Can you use the iSclack opener to open the iPhone 6s?

    Joe Koffee - 返信

    The iSclack is helpful, although you have to use it a bit differently than you would on, say, a 5s or 6. The iSclack alone isn’t strong enough to pop the display open, because of all the adhesive around the perimeter of the 6s display. But you can use it to lift the display just enough to get a tool in there and start cutting the adhesive. Basically, the iSclack does the same job as the suction cup shown here, with maybe a bit less fuss.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My screen was SUPER shattered… the hair dryer did the trick. Patience it definitely the key… I tried putting tape over the glass but the suction cup wouldn’t stick to it at all but it stuck to the broken glass for a few seconds. I taped it up when I was finally able to move onto the next steps to keep the glass from getting everywhere then peeled it off for Step 10.

    Mandy Ng - 返信

    Hi, it looks like, from reading the comments, that separating the display assembly from the phone is a tricky step.

    Would the piece of equipment, in the link below, be any use at this stage? Seems it could be used for all makes and models.

    Any info would be appreciated.

    https://youtu.be/8it4o9tx8tQ

    Michael - 返信

    I have a screen protector on my phone. I was wondering if it was going to be problem for the suction cup.

    jeffreyleung2002 - 返信

    I can only suggest to use a hair dryer to loosen up the adhesive underneath the display. Mine was stuck so hard it wouldn't barely move. After warming ist up I could softly pull ist up with way less power

    olonetzky - 返信

    A question, has anyone had success removing a cracked (not shattered) screen? My phone has a single diagonal crack from the top right corner down to the left side. Will the suction cup still work?

    goblazers - 返信

  4. 吸盤カップを均一の強さで持ち上げます。その際、フロントパネルとリアケースの間に小さな隙間を作ります。 時間をかけて丁寧に、均一の力加減で持ち上げます。このディスプレイアセンブリは他のデバイスに比べてしっかりと接着されています。
    • 吸盤カップを均一の強さで持ち上げます。その際、フロントパネルとリアケースの間に小さな隙間を作ります。

    • 時間をかけて丁寧に、均一の力加減で持ち上げます。このディスプレイアセンブリは他のデバイスに比べてしっかりと接着されています。

    • 強く引っ張りすぎるとディスプレイアセンブリにダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。ディスプレイアセンブリとリアケースの間に、小さな隙間を作るぐらの力加減で持ち上げます。

    • 作業が上手く進まない場合は、iOpenerやヘアドライヤー、ヒートガンなどを使ってiPhoneの正面側を温めてください。熱くて触れない程度まで温めます。ディスプレイ端に沿って留められた接着剤を柔らかくすることができます。

    No, really. Do this on a table and use less strength than you think. If you open the display the whole way at this step you can easily rip the home button connections and one of several display connections at the top. <— too much experience... :(

    chuymatt - 返信

    Wow, that was tough. Patience, patience, patience. Did not use the iOpener, just firm and consistent pulling with the phone on a flat surface. When the suction cup comes off... clean the display surface and go back at it. I did use the pointed end of a spudger inserted into the headphone jack to hold down the bottom case whilst I pulled on the suction cup. Once there was sufficient room (see next step) you can just get the spudger (flat end) to slide in slightly.

    plisi - 返信

    If you're lifting up on the glass, how are you supposed to hold the rest of the phone down? Is it by holding the camera end down with the side of your hand and rotating your hand, or using your other hand (not pictured) on the edges (seems very difficult), or using a spudger in a jack?

    Bryan - 返信

    I got a fingernail on the metal edge and that did the trick.

    David Heinbach -

    On the 6s, which has an annoying black adhesive strip holding the display assembly on, I use the iSclack to loosen a very small area near the home button then insert a thin spudger and gently twist it a bit to release the adhesive. Do this around the bottom and both sides of the phone to release the screen. I usually have to break some of the adhesive strands when the opening is big enough.

    scentaur - 返信

    My spudgers just too thick for initial insertion. In the end, fingernail on my thumb got me started, and I was able to get plastic picks in there to work it. The microwavable iOpener gel strip really helped.

    Heidi Moser - 返信

    Thanks plisi, your comments are helpful. I had to apply pressure several different times. Didnt realize until about the seventh time applying pressure that what I was doing was slowly loosening the adhesive. Patience is truly the key with this step. You may not think you're progressing but it's slowly prying away.

    amylofton - 返信

    What happens if the cup won't even stick to the display because it is cracked and it will not hold air near the bottom of the phone?

    Jaredrett - 返信

    hey everyone, i just did my first iphone 6S display...after many 5, 5c, and 5s iphones...just keep trying and carefully insert the spunger where they said...right around the headphone jack. The black adhesive makes it very tough to get it off unless you work at one corner. Be careful...but you can do it! ;-)

    David Althaus - 返信

    Use a razor, and go along the outside of the phone carevilly using the razor as a spudger. it will efficiently cut and weaken the adhesive while spudging the screen away from the frame. only takes 15 mins.... Use a workbench razor, not a flimsy one. If possible, use one where one side of the razor has a gaurd on it for better grip. Take it slow and try not to scratch the frame. Lots of pressure and patience is key!!!

    Goodluck!!

    -J

    Jaredrett - 返信

    The first time you pull it apart there's black glue tape that you'll have to compete with to get it open. Be careful

    Jeff - 返信

    Use a hairdryer about 2-3 inches from the phone on high heat for about a minute, moving the dryer the entire time. The phone opened for me in less than a minute after trying for several minutes without heating up the phone.

    Todd Leach - 返信

    Careful ..delicate work. I also used a hot hair dryer around the perimeter for just a couple minutes to help loosen the adhesive bond. I then used my sadly short finger nail to help loosen the edge. I placed dental floss under the corner & carefully lifted the display very very slowly. This worked within about 3 minutes. As mentioned earlier the adhesive used in the iPhone 6s is very strong but this routine worked like a charm & was quick!

    Mary Blocher - 返信

    Much easier to do using the Spudger that is provided in the Pro Tool Kit. It has a thinner fin type head. The Spudger provided in this repair kit is definitely too thick and makes it far more difficult.

    Tyler Brady - 返信

    The spudger is too thick and the glue is too strong. Pulling up broke the glass below the power button. Now I am out $200 for a repair, plus a battery. Bummer. I am VERY good at repairing things. The adhesive on this is very very strong. The pentalobe tip that they send with the kits not milled well and I had to take a file and flatten the tip to get it to work - it is not finished well at all. I used the kit for the iPhone 6 for my Mom and had no problem. I am 51 and have been fixing things since I was very young.

    greghabiby - 返信

    Well, I shattered my screen trying to do this. So now I need a battery and screen repair. Not happy.

    Carolann Parran - 返信

    Me too! Be gentle!

    Matthew Simoenau -

    Me as well, I went very slowly, was working the spudger around the edge and then it shattered. Just going to buy a replacement phone and I was replacing the battery to gift this to my sister as a hand-me-down and now it’s not worth it. Perhaps I can sell the kit second hand…

    kpederso -

    Removing the display was the hardest part of the whole job. The adhesive is very strong, but just be patient. What I ended up doing was to use the suction cup, the flat end of the spudger, and an iFixit opening tool. I used the suction cup on the screen as directed. Then I placed the flat end of the spudger just a bit into the charging port and held down the phone body by the spudger on my work mat. I pulled up on the suction cup, pushed down on the spudger, and inserted the thin iFixit opening tool in the small seperation. I took my time and worked my way around all of the edges. After that it was really easy. I was able to reuse the adhesive, and my new battery install went just as planned.

    Eric Olson - 返信

    Use a hair dryer as per the suggestions and this will definitely make the job easier and reducing the risk of breaking the display . Keep a steady pull of the display, don’t rush and it will start to show the small separation gap. An issue is that it will go back in place if you stop pulling before you can use the spudger tool. The suction tool that came with my repair kit did not have a ring on it as per the guide picture. It has a blue handle that is open on the side. I sat at my kitchen desk and opened a drawer. I hooked the open edge of the suction handle around the drawer side edge which me a third hand. I held the phone with one hand and pulled it away from the desk drawer. Once the separation started I could use my other hand with the flat edge of the spudger to complete the separation. Hope this helps.

    emaneht - 返信

    Hair dryer - 1 minute until it’s hot like a fresh mug of coffee. Then as soon as you see the smallest gap, insert a razor blade above the phones jack, I needed to slide it towards the charge port and back. Once it slips in keep it there and use your spudger to enlarge the gap and slide it along the corners.

    Steve Esson - 返信

    Yes, I used the tip of a sharp knife as a pry tool to get me started. Since the screen was cracked anyway I figured I had nothing to lose. It went fine.

    David Heinbach -

    Also tried it with the hair dryer - worked like a charm. 5 Minutes and the phone was open. The whole repair procedure took me about 45 minutes, and was ok. Re-assembling the three display-connectors has been a bit tricky, but with careful movements and taking the time it needs it was not a big problem. New display is very good, phone looks like new :-)

    Christian Woelk - 返信

    My glass was broken and the suction cup wouldn’t hold on the tape. I used a very thin knife an slowly worked between the glass and the phone frame. Please keep in mind that my phone had been run over by a Ford F150, so I really had nothing to lose.

    Michael Cleveland - 返信

    What is unfortunately unclear is just how to 1. apply sufficient force and keeping the phone secure with only one hand, 2. whether this is best done on a table to use its opposing surface to secure the phone.

    The suction cup is a worthless tool because flexes too much to provide a good hold. Mine slipped and popped away three times. -The last time causing a crack in the screen.

    ffissk - 返信

    Glad I read these comments about the screen cracking because I was really trying to force this thing open (with some heat applied already), but it wasn’t budging. Kept applying heat and light force and eventually it started coming apart. The suggestion for placing the pointed end of the spudger in the headphone jack while prying up worked for me and an extra set of hands would have been ideal.

    In the end, with the spudger in the headphone jack, placed a guitar pick in between the screen and the backing and slid it along the bottom left. Left the tip of the guitar pick in to hold the gap and then was able to use the spudger to complete the process as shown.

    Nicholas Anchor - 返信

  5. ヘッドホンジャックのちょうど真上、ディスプレイの下に隙間ができます。この箇所がデバイス本体を開口する際に最も安全な場所です。 スパッジャーの平面側先端を、ヘッドホンジャック上部のスクリーンとリアケースの隙間に差し込みます。
    • ヘッドホンジャックのちょうど真上、ディスプレイの下に隙間ができます。この箇所がデバイス本体を開口する際に最も安全な場所です。

    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を、ヘッドホンジャック上部のスクリーンとリアケースの隙間に差し込みます。

    WARNING: easy to stretch/ruin the adhesive

    As you proceed, know that you must keep ALL of the adhesive stuck to the phone. If any stays stuck to display, it can become permanently stretched as you are prying and lifting. Then you’ll need to buy the replacement adhesive, once it’s back in stock!

    Jason - 返信

    If you’re opening the phone at all, you’re compromising the adhesive. There is absolutely no way to somehow open it perfectly so you can re-use it. Fortunately, it’s cheap and fairly easy to replace—and not even that critical on the 6s series anyway, since it’s not doing any real waterproofing.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I had a badly cracked screen. Packing tape helped the suction cup stick. Heating the phone helped soften the adhesive, and in the end I pried the screen up at the headphone jack with a sharp pointy knife. That helped me get the spudger underneath. Not recommended if the screen is ok, like for a battery replacement, but mine was cracked so I figured I had nothing to lose. Great guide.

    David Heinbach - 返信

    There are two relatively delicate brackets that the two P2 Pentalobe screws screw into. They can be easily bent during this prying open process. I ruined one on my phone and I’m hoping the phone will function with just one bracket.

    dougdalglish - 返信

    +1 on the pointy knife to get the screen pried up. I couldn’t get the suction cup or tape to adhere well enough due to the glass being so shattered. I heated it for quite a while with the hair dryer on high, got a very sharp knife tip under the glass where the “notch” is, and used that to pry upward while another person slid the end of the spudger into the gap I was holding open with the knife. This one step was basically a three-handed job.

    johnjustinirvine - 返信

  6. フロントパネルアセンブリとデバイス本体の間に作った隙間を広げるためにスパッジャーをひねりながら動かします。 フロントパネルアセンブリとデバイス本体の間に作った隙間を広げるためにスパッジャーをひねりながら動かします。
    • フロントパネルアセンブリとデバイス本体の間に作った隙間を広げるためにスパッジャーをひねりながら動かします。

    No need to turn the spudger full 90°. Just turn it a little.

    Martin Born - 返信

    should have a warning to be very gentle when doing this as the screen is glass - i shattered my screen following this guide

    Martin McAnespie - 返信

  7. ディスプレイアセンブリとリアケースの左側にスパッジャーの平面側先端を差し込みます。 接着面を切り込みながらクリップを外していき、スパッジャーをデバイス本体の左側からの上部に向かってスライドします。
    • ディスプレイアセンブリとリアケースの左側にスパッジャーの平面側先端を差し込みます。

    • 接着面を切り込みながらクリップを外していき、スパッジャーをデバイス本体の左側からの上部に向かってスライドします。

    I’ve found it very easy to open the phone with one of the blue opening picks.

    Just slide it along the left and right side of the display.

    Martin Born - 返信

    Excellent idea. No matter which tool you use take your time so not to damage the display assembly further. Even a cracked screen is a great test tool or spare to use while doing other repairs when it still comes on.

    Bryan Solo -

    Do not go into the top left corner too far your screen will crack i learned the hard way

    Kevin - 返信

    ok but where js the oart about puttung ut back together? mine diesnt snapinto place,……

    makinfilms - 返信

    Use two spudgers.

    One placed in the original breech position to be used as a wedge.

    The other to get worked around the unit.

    These spudgers are going to get destroyed in the process and will not likely be great for another repair.

    ffissk - 返信

  8. スパッジャーを一度抜いて、最初にスパッジャーを差し込んだ位置、本体の下部端に再度差し込みます。 次はスパッジャーをデバイス本体下部の右側に向かってスライドします。
    • スパッジャーを一度抜いて、最初にスパッジャーを差し込んだ位置、本体の下部端に再度差し込みます。

    • 次はスパッジャーをデバイス本体下部の右側に向かってスライドします。

  9. 続けてスパッジャーを右サイドに沿ってスライドしながら圧着剤を切り込み、ディスプレイのクリップをiPhoneから外します。 続けてスパッジャーを右サイドに沿ってスライドしながら圧着剤を切り込み、ディスプレイのクリップをiPhoneから外します。
    • 続けてスパッジャーを右サイドに沿ってスライドしながら圧着剤を切り込み、ディスプレイのクリップをiPhoneから外します。

    This is some important step here I reckon. I didn’t release the clips individually and gradually, so when I pulled, the two halves of the phone separated quite suddenly and the cables ripped in half. Had to order a screen.

    Neil Bass - 返信

    How do I release the clips individually? Is there a good explanation?

    Dan Schwartz - 返信

  10. 吸盤カップをディスプレイから持ち上げながら開き、残りの圧着剤部分を剥がします。 3本のケーブルが本体上部で繋がっているため、90度以上ディスプレイを開かないでください。開きすぎるとケーブルを切断してしまいます。
    • 吸盤カップをディスプレイから持ち上げながら開き、残りの圧着剤部分を剥がします。

    • 3本のケーブルが本体上部で繋がっているため、90度以上ディスプレイを開かないでください。開きすぎるとケーブルを切断してしまいます。

    Prop it up on something

    Nick Stine - 返信

    an old iPhone box and a rubber band lightly around the display works great to hold it at 90

    Christa - 返信

    You could use a clock weight with 2 socks wrapped around it and an elastic band to keep the screen at a 90 degree angle.

    AudiRo808 - 返信

  11. 吸盤カップのノブを緩めて、フロントパネルからカップを外します。 吸盤カップのノブを緩めて、フロントパネルからカップを外します。
    • 吸盤カップのノブを緩めて、フロントパネルからカップを外します。

    Pulling up on the “nub” is a futile waste of time.

    ffissk - 返信

  12. ディスプレイアセンブリを丁寧に手で押さえてデバイス本体から持ち上げます。上部に留められたクリップを蝶番にして開いてください。 ディスプレイを約90度まで開き、この位置で固定したままにします。衝立を利用してください。 作業中、ディスプレイがしっかりと固定されるように、輪ゴムで留めてください。ディスプレイケーブルへの予期せぬ損傷を防ぎます。
    • ディスプレイアセンブリを丁寧に手で押さえてデバイス本体から持ち上げます。上部に留められたクリップを蝶番にして開いてください。

    • ディスプレイを約90度まで開き、この位置で固定したままにします。衝立を利用してください。

    • 作業中、ディスプレイがしっかりと固定されるように、輪ゴムで留めてください。ディスプレイケーブルへの予期せぬ損傷を防ぎます。

    • 急ぎの時は未開封の飲料用缶を利用して、ディスプレイを固定できます。

    Smart idea :)

    x226 - 返信

    on the third picture, the screen is opened more than 90 degrees.

    Mirza Zohaib - 返信

    It said about 90 degrees

    Nick Stine -

    Actually it literally says, “Don't open the display more than 90º, as it is still connected at the top by three cables that may break if stretched.”

    David -

    In the second picture I was originally wondering what that diagonal piece of material was. Now that I've done a repair I can say that it's the sticky adhesive around the edge of the phone lifting up with the screen.

    jonl - 返信

    Be careful when separating the halves not to pull off the black tape on the back of the screen half. Mine was stuck to the two halves and I thought it was double sided tape to holding the halves together. It was shredded in separating the 2 halves. It turns out it covers up some kindof of silver paste (purpose unknown) on the back of the screen so I cut a put a piece of plastic film to match it and taped it in place. We’ll see what happens…

    Jamey Gerlaugh - 返信

    can of soup and rubber band did the trick.

    Big Al - 返信

    this is bs as they do not tell you reverse how to snap the fuker back on…..putting it in back on!,!!! the guy asks for points for writing thus? why not make a video you dirk….and how to put it back on….what about the other adhesive?..? you moron it says mothing…anyone else have a link? oi could barely put the screws back in..

    takimg the fuker apart is easy….putting the $@$* together again? humpty dumpty!”!!!

    makinfilms - 返信

    When replacing the screen, make sure to get the top (camera side) lip in first, then work downward along the sides, getting the edge with the home button in last.

    johnjustinirvine - 返信

    • バッテリーコネクター用ブラケットを固定している次の長さのネジを2本外します。

    • 2.9 mmネジー1本

    • 2.2 mmネジー1本

    • この修理作業の間、ネジをきちんと管理してください。再組み立ての際は、元あった場所に取り付けます。間違った位置にネジを取り付けると、iPhoneにダメージを与えてしまいます。ご注意ください。

    In order to put the correct screw back where you took it out mark the head surface and a small dot beside the hole with a pen. Use coloured pens if you want the exact location for each screw/hole. This goes for steps 17, (23) and 29 too.

    lionno1 - 返信

    Please! Please! Please! Invest in a Magnetic Project Mat or its equivalent from fixit. It will assist you with completing your repair.

    Ian Baldwin - 返信

    I just taped down a 8.5 x 11 white piece of paper on my desk and drew a rough image of it, then ‘taped’ the screw I removed to the “image” on paper. It worked just fine. (My first time ever opening an iphone, so give it a shot!)

    italianchick99 - 返信

    If you missed it from the beginning (like I did) it’s the #000 Philips for all screws except the Pentalobes.

    Max Cox - 返信

    if you get a plastic ice cube tray, and a fine marker pen, text the sizes on each cube compartment as you follow the guide, also stops the screws getting lost

    Brendan Cranny - 返信

    used sheet of A4 paper and bluetak - stick screw in bluetak, write location & size on paper

    Kev Salmon - 返信

    mine is missing a screw!!! this is bs! this was mynmithers ohone nonone ooened it….one screw only…im liesed offf

    makinfilms - 返信

    For some odd reason the screw “One 2.2 mm screw “ orange circled seems to be stuck and can not be unscrewed.

    Ahitagni Mandal - 返信

  13. iPhoneからバッテリーコネクターブラケットを取り出します。 iPhoneからバッテリーコネクターブラケットを取り出します。
    • iPhoneからバッテリーコネクターブラケットを取り出します。

    Little bit of adhesive holds this down- you do have to use the tiniest bit of force.

    Edward Coe - 返信

    Pay careful attention to the orientation of this plate so that when it comes to re-installation you put it back the correct way. Sounds obvious but I’ve found it inverted in one customer’s phone, which led symptoms of charging failures and repeated spontaneous restarts.

    Jonathan Bradley - 返信

  14. スパッジャーの先端を使って、ロジックボードからバッテリーコネクターを上に持ち上げて外します。 スパッジャーの先端を使って、ロジックボードからバッテリーコネクターを上に持ち上げて外します。 スパッジャーの先端を使って、ロジックボードからバッテリーコネクターを上に持ち上げて外します。
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、ロジックボードからバッテリーコネクターを上に持ち上げて外します。

    Be sure not to skip this step. It is crucial. I have had many repairs where the screen will not light up after the repair if the battery had not been disconnected and reconnected.

    Andrew spoelstra - 返信

    Thanks for the tip, Andrew.

    William Turner -

    It should also be mentioned, DO NOT USE A METAL SPUDGER. You could short the battery to other nearby metal parts. I've done that, the battery clip arced to the metal cover on some of the logic board chips, and my phone wouldn't power back on for 3 days. They should put a caution caption on this step. I've had this happen on a 5S as well.

    Frank - 返信

    Thanks for the tip, Frank.

    William Turner -

    SERIOUS WARNING!: During *reassembly*, you should NOT reconnect the battery connector until the VERY LAST step (upon reassembly!), as many people, including myself, apparently have smoked (burned, destroyed) the main Logic board. This happens when you reconnect the LCD/digitizer assembly FPC cable. ifixit should modify this instruction to be very explicit about this!

    enoughstatic - 返信

    It sounds like several people, including myself, had trouble charging the new replacement battery past about 10%. This ended up being due to the new battery not having a non-conductive insulator. The way to solve this is by adding a small piece of electrical tape to cover the battery connector before screwing in the battery connector bracket over it. You may want to do this on the first go-around.

    If you do experience that problem, I found the answer here and it worked perfectly: iPhone battery not charging after DIY battery replacement. Why?

    Heather Pastushok - 返信

    Thanks to Heather Pastushok (and Behrang Mohajer at “iPhone battery not charging . . .) for this important detail. My iFixit battery came with a thin layer of black foam insulation on the top surface of the battery connector, but even gentle pressure from a blunt plastic tool (pushing the connector in place) scraped an exposed spot. A carefully trimmed piece of black electrician's tape provided peace of mind. The iPhone 6s is good as new with the battery now at 100%!

    Robert Dering - 返信

    Thanks to Heather Pastushok (and Behrang Mohajer at “iPhone battery not charging . . .) for this important detail. My iFixit battery came with a thin layer of black foam insulation on the top surface of the battery connector, but even gentle pressure from a blunt plastic tool (pushing the connector in place) scraped an exposed spot. A carefully trimmed piece of black electrician's tape provided peace of mind. The iPhone 6s is good as new with the battery now at 100%!

    Robert Dering - 返信

    To reduce risk of battery arcing , as soon as the old battery connector was detached, I wrapped it with insulation from connection all the way to the battery body. Did the same with the new battery to eliminate concerns about shorts while checking fit position to assure the connector would match up with the receiver. Only removed the insulation after all other connections had been restored, so plugging in the battery was the last step before closing the case.

    Robert Dering - 返信

  15. 作業中、アクシデントでバッテリーが接続しないよう、ロジックボードからバッテリーコネクターを引き離し、ソケットから完全に離れた位置で固定します。 作業中、アクシデントでバッテリーが接続しないよう、ロジックボードからバッテリーコネクターを引き離し、ソケットから完全に離れた位置で固定します。
    • 作業中、アクシデントでバッテリーが接続しないよう、ロジックボードからバッテリーコネクターを引き離し、ソケットから完全に離れた位置で固定します。

    If you remove the grey bar with the word “TAPTIC” next, removal of the battery adhesive is much easier. It can be pulled straighter back with less chance of tearing. Here’s an image with the securing screws identified.

    If you securely anchor the screen to a can of soup, it is not necessary complete step 16 Front Panel Assembly. I was able to remove the two bottom (1.2 mm) screws and the 2.8 mm screw, but could not get the upper (1.2 mm) screw. I was able to remove the old battery with the Front Panel Assembly left in place.

    Edward Dziuk - 返信

    Amazing tip Edward, I followed your tip exactly and agree to definitely remove the “TAPTIC”

    italianchick99 -

    Hi what it is called black cover between battery connector and sim card tray? Thanks

    Rajendra - 返信

    How in the world does one reapply the edge adhesive without making a mess?

    gary - 返信

    the new battery from ifixit came with a dented connector and wont connect to the logic board. What do I do?

    Adam Frederick - 返信

    are you suuuuuure you didn’t dent the connector? i know if i had received a battery with a dented connector, i’d immediately contact the seller so you probably dented it yourself and now you’re trying to trick all us but we’re on to you.

    unibody deluxe -

  16. ディスプレイケーブルブラケットに留められた次のプラスネジを4本外します。
    • ディスプレイケーブルブラケットに留められた次のプラスネジを4本外します。

    • 1.2 mmネジー3本

    • 2.8 mmネジー1本

    Thank you for this great guide!

    I was able to skip removing the display assembly and logic board steps and lay the speaker upside down on the bottom edge of the logic board without putting undue pressure on the antenna cable making this a much easier and quicker repair for me. If you choose to leave the display assembly connected, I recommend using a rubber band to hold it to a box of similar size at a 90 degree angle to prevent damage and stress to the attached cables.

    So, the steps I skipped were Steps 16 through 34 and Steps 37 through 45.

    scentaur - 返信

    The 1.2mm screw in the top left corner is refusing to come out, any help?

    Harry Allinson - 返信

    I’m also having this issue now, what did you do to get the screw out?

    Belmin Husanovic -

    Sounds common but no solution? I keep working at it but no luck. Anyone find a way in the last few years?

    Kurt Mickelson -

    There’s no trick… Make sure you’ve got the right driver, press down HARD, and crank it. If it’s stripping, check your driver and consider moving up one size. Resources: Screwdriver Best Practices & How to Remove a Stripped Screw - Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    why does the battery fix kit not include the #00 bit needed to unscrew all 3 1.2mm screws?!?! !#^&@@ off.

    robertdjclark - 返信

    Either a #00 or a #000 bit should work fine here. Some #0 bits will also work if the point is fine enough. Same goes for a lot of JIS bits. As long as it doesn't strip or slip, you're good.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My kit's screwdriver failed about the time I got to the last few steps in this tutorial. I had a cheap precision set with a #000 bit but that refused to seat in the screws. I went to Home Depot, bought a lifetime guarantee Husky precision set with #0000 through #0 bits and that worked beautifully on every screw.

    David Shaddock - 返信

    The screwdriver in my kit doesn't remove the bottom two screws! any reason why?

    anujfolsom - 返信

    I actually followed all the guide but isn’t the front panel disassembly skippable? And if so what are the benefits of removing it? Cause i had quite a hard time putting back in the connectors of the 3 flex cables.

    GiovanniB - 返信

    I have the 6s from Dubai. the top left screw is different with the rest. I am stuck on this screw. i am clue less why this top left + screw.

    Anyone have the same issue?

    Evander Lorenz - 返信

    A precision screwdriver set is a wise investment for doing any of this work. I got a set from iFixit that is very well machined. Don’t expect the cheap drivers with kits to last more than one disassembly-assembly, if that! Also don’t keep mangled bits or drivers…throw them out!!!

    Peter Bovey - 返信

    what crews  should I use in this step PH000. OR Y000 OR P2 Plz help me

    mshary alzhrany - 返信

    The kit provided with the replacement Battery of iPhone 6s does not include the right bits to remove the three 1,2mm screws! I had to remove it without removing the display.

    Matthias Wagner - 返信

    I too experienced a problem with the size of the screwdriver here (supplied in the iFixit kit.) My phone also had a 5th screw right in the center of the plate - another 1.2mm. I removed and replace it without problems.

    Scott Young - 返信

    @scottvyoung Sounds like you’re working on an iPhone 6. These instructions are for the 6s.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Screws are very small and very difficult to put back in!! Lost 2-3 screws

    Put phone back together and of course doesnt work Waste of Money!

    Thomas Kintigh - 返信

    I purchased a “screw set” for an i-Phone 5 and have slowly been cannibalizing it whenever I lose a screw. It has been invaluable and the set includes enough screws that I have been able to cover all that have been dropped and lost for 3 i-Phones now. Using a magnetic mat has also limited my screw loss considerably! All of these items were purchased through IFIXIT at very reasonable cost. Thank you IFIXIT!

    Peter Bovey -

    The ifixit kit supplied screwdriver for the display cable bracket did NOT fit. (disappointing) So, I used scentar’s (comment above) method of a large rubber band wrapped around a book weighted kit box to hold it at 90 degrees. Leaving the screen attached and then removing and replacing the battery.

    laffinbuz - 返信

    I had a problem reassembling the iPhone, my touchId wasn’t working any more even if the home button was working correctly. I don’t know why but loosening these 4 screw a bit made it work again. If I tight them again it doesn’t work. Maybe this can help someone.

    Alex Mufatti - 返信

    @alexmufatti I had the same exact issue and luckily came across the same solution by trial and error. However a few weeks later Touch ID suddenly stopped working again and I think it’s the same issue. I was hoping somebody came across a more permanent solution.

    Michel Chemas -

    I was nervous not following this guide step-by-step, but as others mentioned I did not have the correct ‘bit’ size to remove the 3 screws circled in ‘red’ in the above diagram. I skipped steps 17, 18, 19 BUT used the ‘tip’ in step 11 to prop the front screen without removing the front display completely and I was still able to replace battery.

    italianchick99 - 返信

    how to measure the screw? from the head or from under the head?

    Balieltello - 返信

    Measurements in the guide are for the entire length of the screw, including the head, as measured with an ordinary digital caliper.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I was unable to remove the display cable bracket. Therefore I was unable to remove the display, which meant I couldn’t replace the screen seal. ☹️ The small Phillips bit seemed too pointed so it couldn’t get into the screw deep enough to grip. The second Phillips bit was too big. It makes me wonder if I got the correct tool kit with my battery replacement kit.

    Mark Morris - 返信

    The display does not have to be removed! If you secure it in place with a rubber band as advised (actually one at the top and one at the bottom works best - stops the bottom half of the phone sliding towards you) , it will quite happily sit there while the battery is replaced. It’s definitely better not to have to remove and reconnect those display connectors!

    J-P jpfromadelaide - 返信

  17. ディスプレイケーブルブラケットを取り出します。 ディスプレイケーブルブラケットを取り出します。
    • ディスプレイケーブルブラケットを取り出します。

    i didn’t observe the photo, i pried it from the side not realizing there’s a wire connection under it, i inadvertently also disconnected the wire too. best to grasp the display cable bracket from position pictured.

    Willliam Wixon - 返信

    What can I do if one of the screws get stripped?

    Zoe Shadzad - 返信

  18. スパッジャーもしくは清潔な指先を使って、基板上ソケットから正面カメラのフレックスケーブルをまっすぐ引き上げて接続を外します。 スパッジャーもしくは清潔な指先を使って、基板上ソケットから正面カメラのフレックスケーブルをまっすぐ引き上げて接続を外します。
    • スパッジャーもしくは清潔な指先を使って、基板上ソケットから正面カメラのフレックスケーブルをまっすぐ引き上げて接続を外します。

    Note carefully the order that they are removed.  My new display had them in the WRONG order and I spent about 2 minutes trying to figure out what was wrong until I compared the new screen with the old screen and saw that they were in wrong sequence.  Fortunately they were relatively easy to fold out of the way and put them in the right order.  After that they popped right into place.  The new cables don’t have the “fold” yet so display had to be held at 90 degrees until all three were installed and the cover reattached.

    David Rogers - 返信

    I pop up these screen connectors using my fingernail. After doing a lot of repairs, this is the easiest and fastest way to get them loose.

    Kenneth Hilstan - 返信

    pad under earspeaker is lost, where to buy?

    Balieltello - 返信

  19. 基板上ソケットからデジタイザーケーブルをまっすぐ上げて、接続を外します。 デジタイザケーブルを再接続する際は、コネクターの中央を押さないでください。コネクターの片一方を押し込んでから、反対側を押します。コネクターの中央を押すとコンポーネントが曲がり、デジタイザーにダメージを与えてしまいます。
    • 基板上ソケットからデジタイザーケーブルをまっすぐ上げて、接続を外します。

    • デジタイザケーブルを再接続する際は、コネクターの中央を押さないでください。コネクターの片一方を押し込んでから、反対側を押します。コネクターの中央を押すとコンポーネントが曲がり、デジタイザーにダメージを与えてしまいます。

    I can't seem to get the digitizer cable to snap back into place. Any suggestions?

    gbmazur - 返信

    Yes--if you, like me, could not get the digitizer connector to seat, you've probably got confused on the reassembly order. I had to remove the EMI shield (seven screws), and reinstall it ON TOP of the big flap tongue that comes with the new digitizer, rearranging the order of the connector tails. Note that one of the connectors is a bit shorter than the other, and one of the receptacles on the iPhone is shorter as well. Make sure you're laying down the tails and connectors in the right order when you reassemble! The display data cable--sideways to the others, toward the outer edge, goes first. Then the longer connector, and finally the shorter one. When they're seated, they're seated, and you'll be sure of it.

    David Shaddock - 返信

    Patience. I had trouble but after some time got it back in. Didn’t have to rearrange anything like above ^. Maybe the design was changed.

    Cbirdsey - 返信

    I have no audio through the earpiece after completing the process. I have removed and reseated all cables several times. What’s wrong?

    Tobin Antpusat - 返信

    Same problem…. any suggestions?

    Antonio Sacchet -

    My touch id does not work anymore after battery replacement. Can it be that its due to badly connected digitizer cable to connector? Everything else seems to work perfectly. Thanks

    cyp - 返信

  20. この手順では、ケーブルの接続を外す前に、バッテリーの接続が外れているか必ず確認してください。 ディスプレイケーブルをロジックボードのソケットからまっすぐ引き上げて、接続を外します。
    • この手順では、ケーブルの接続を外す前に、バッテリーの接続が外れているか必ず確認してください。

    • ディスプレイケーブルをロジックボードのソケットからまっすぐ引き上げて、接続を外します。

    I notice there are 3 flex cables, does this disassembly guide apply to the verizon version of iPhone 6s? I don't want to order the wrong digitizer screen for my new and improved iPhone that i somehow managed to crack the screen on.

    Bailey Duncan - 返信

    There are four cables to disconnect here to complete this process, at least on my phone. The replacement screen also had 4, so no problem.

    Scott Young - 返信

    I am having a hard time reattaching the LCD cable. Is it possible I bent the connectors? Or possibly the gaskets around it are interfering? I’d like to just pull all of that waterproofing gasket off! >:(

    Amanda Cooper (Doula) - 返信

    Did you end up going this? My screen is black so I'm trying to figure out what i did

    Alex Tanner -

    I neglected to detach the battery before taking this step and upon reassembly I have no display. What might be my next step to repair.

    Dennis Gagomiros - 返信

    You can try reseating the cables, but the likely answer is that your logic board’s backlight circuit is blown. If you power on your phone and you can see an image on the display by shining a bright light on it, your backlight circuit is toast. This is a common repair and very fixable, but requires microsoldering equipment and expertise. It’s not a DIY.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I made the same mistake and I'm wondering if you got a fix for it? Is the damage done on the screen assembly or phone itself?

    goesprotocall -

    My screen replacement only comes with two flex cables but all of the videos are showing three. It is not working to connect the flex cables to the connectors

    cellabella1 - 返信

    The third flex cable would be for the front-facing camera, sensors, etc. If you bought a display that doesn’t include those components, you’ll need to transfer them to your new display first, and then you’ll be able to install it and plug everything in. The instructions are over here. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    The important warning about making sure that the battery is disconnected may be more beneficial at the BEGINNING of these instructions.

    ffissk - 返信

  21. ディスプレイアセンブリを取り外します。

    If you're replacing the adhesive, be sure to check the two tabs on the display that receive the pentalobe screws before setting the display on the new adhesive. The tabs on my display were bent inward slightly—just out of reach of the pentalobe screws. I didn't bend these out before setting the display and was forced to re-open the display to adjust them, ruining my carefully placed adhesive.

    cdinger - 返信

    There is no need to remove camera or the logic board if all you want to do is replace the lightning assembly. Leaving things in place will save you a number of steps. Proceed directly to Step 35 and save yourself all this work.

    Ira Goldman - 返信

    Also read comments on step 37 as others have also pointed out that there is no need to pull logic board and you can skip those steps mentioned.

    Ira Goldman - 返信

    Unless you are replacing the speaker you can skip to step 34 as there is no need to remove the logic board.

    Bryan Solo - 返信

    My replacement display was not functional, but I didn’t test it until after my adhesive was already applied. Might be worth double-checking the replacement screen works before applying the adhesive at all. (though I’m glad I tried it before closing it up!)

    Ben - 返信

    When reconnecting to the logic board, reverse the order, so display first, then digitizer and finally camera. The front pannel slides into small edge of the backchannel. So start at the top when you put front and back together.

    Joep Willemsen - 返信

    be sure battery is disconnected before reassembling the display —in case you reconnected it to position battery

    Christa - 返信

    If reapplying adhesive, I would strongly recommend that you wait until you are reassembling the phone. Otherwise, trust me, it gets really sticky and limits your mobility around the phone. I had it all over my fingers by the time I finally got the old battery out and the new one in.

    Justin Tilghman - 返信

    Removing the battery was a challenge as the old adhesive snapped before it came out so I had to use a hair dryer to warm the adhesive before slowly peeling the battery off. I still manage to puncture the batter and nearly had a fire. When inserting the new battery I didn’t leave enough room for the connector to fit beside it so I had to pull it off, plug the connector into its port, then insert the battery. I think the instructions should warn you to leave enough room for the connector to tuck in beside it.

    The kit came with a new adhesive gasket but I could not find the instructions on how to install it. But after 45 minutes I had it done and my iPhone 6S is back in working order. Don’t forget to ‘hard’ reset the phone on start up, run the new battery all the way down. Otherwise this is a very good value time and money wise.

    Ramon Pabalan - 返信

  22. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボードのソケットからリアカメラの接続を外します。 スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボードのソケットからリアカメラの接続を外します。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボードのソケットからリアカメラの接続を外します。

  23. リアカメラのブラケットに留められた2本のプラスネジを取り外します。
    • リアカメラのブラケットに留められた2本のプラスネジを取り外します。

    • 1.6 mmネジー1本

    • 2.0 mmネジー1本

    Remember to place the nfc bracket under the camera bracket properly before attaching the 2.0mm screw.

    Mikołaj Podjacki - 返信

    Thank you - well pointed out!

    Laurie MacDonald - 返信

    Ditto - I almost overlooked it. Thank you!

    Frank Diaz - 返信

  24. カメラブラケットを取り出します。 カメラブラケットを取り出します。
    • カメラブラケットを取り出します。

  25. 背面ケースとカメラモジュールの間のカメラ側にスパッジャーを差し込みます。 スパッジャーを動かしながら丁寧にカメラを持ち上げます。
    • 背面ケースとカメラモジュールの間のカメラ側にスパッジャーを差し込みます。

    • スパッジャーを動かしながら丁寧にカメラを持ち上げます。

  26. カメラを取り出します。 カメラを取り出します。
    • カメラを取り出します。

    There is one more step after this.

    You must remove some metal part before you push out the camera ring.

    Also must have new metal part because after you take out (metal part) cant back agin the same part.

    Sry for my english.

    Best regards

    It Step - 返信

    When I did it, the metal part didn’t pop out and stayed in. I just lined it up with the screw hole as the metal part also had a hole. I assume it’s to bridge something. Hope this helps.

    spearson -

    Hi - after doing this I had a little part left over … eek.. part number 160-5Z and two little screws… can you help by tells my me where ive gone wrong please? Thank you

    Hayley graham - 返信

    When I did it, the metal part didn’t pop out and stayed in. I just lined it up with the screw hole on the upper right side as the metal part also had a hole. I assume it’s to bridge something. Hope this helps.

    spearson -

    Faltaría el paso de retirar la parte metálica que se encuentra antes del vidrio del lente. Que método utiliza para retirarla?

    Nicolas Muller - 返信

  27. SIMカードトレイの小さなホールにSIM取り出しツールや紙クリップを差し込みます。 トレイを取り出すためにクリップを押し込みます。
    • SIMカードトレイの小さなホールにSIM取り出しツールや紙クリップを差し込みます。

    • トレイを取り出すためにクリップを押し込みます。

    • かなりの力で押し込んでください。

    Anyone ever have the lever on these break? I’m in the process of removing logic board to remove a stuck SIM card

    aburningstariv - 返信

  28. iPhoneからSIMカードトレイを取り出します。
    • iPhoneからSIMカードトレイを取り出します。

    • SIMカードを再挿入する際は、トレイに対してカードが正しい方向に配置されているか確認してください。

  29. 上部コンポーネントケーブルのコネクターブラケット上に留められた2.3 mmプラスネジを2本取り外します。
    • 上部コンポーネントケーブルのコネクターブラケット上に留められた2.3 mmプラスネジを2本取り外します。

  30. 上部コンポーネントのケーブルコネクターブラケットを取り出します。 上部コンポーネントのケーブルコネクターブラケットを取り出します。
    • 上部コンポーネントのケーブルコネクターブラケットを取り出します。

  31. 上部左側のWi-Fiアンテナに留められた、次のプラスネジ5本を外します。 1.5mmネジー2本
    • 上部左側のWi-Fiアンテナに留められた、次のプラスネジ5本を外します。

    • 1.5mmネジー2本

    • 2.3 mmネジー1本

    • 1.9 mmネジー1本

    • 2.0 mmネジー1本

    When tightening the screws again, make sure the screw marked in green and yellow are tightened, it can cause distortions in Apple Pay and NFC functions

    Armin Hełmiński - 返信

    I have difficulty removing the screw in green … is it a #000 or something else

    BABY RAS - 返信

  32. 上部左側のWi-Fi アンテナを取り出します。 上部左側のWi-Fi アンテナを取り出します。
    • 上部左側のWi-Fi アンテナを取り出します。

    Step 32, 33 & 34 & their pictures show the middle case "One 1.9 mm Phillips screw" under the Wi-Fi antenna chip having been removed when it actually isn't removed until step 42. This made me think I had missed a step when I hadn't.

    blitzn - 返信

  33. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボードのソケットからオーディオコントロールケーブルの接続を外します。 スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボードのソケットからオーディオコントロールケーブルの接続を外します。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボードのソケットからオーディオコントロールケーブルの接続を外します。

  34. スパッジャーの先端を使って、ロジックボードの上部右端のソケットからアンテナケーブルの接続を外します。 スパッジャーの先端を使って、ロジックボードの上部右端のソケットからアンテナケーブルの接続を外します。
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、ロジックボードの上部右端のソケットからアンテナケーブルの接続を外します。

    It is still recommended to disconnect the antenna in this step as it will allow some slack you may need but tugging or pulling on the antenna cable down at the speaker could still damage it so be patience. Also lift on the connection from the metal portion as lifting from the cable could cause it to snap.

    Bryan Solo - 返信

  35. スパッジャーの先端を使って、ロジックボード左下側のソケットからアンテナケーブルの接続を外します。 スパッジャーの先端を使って、ロジックボード左下側のソケットからアンテナケーブルの接続を外します。
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、ロジックボード左下側のソケットからアンテナケーブルの接続を外します。

    Be super careful here, pry the cable by the brass connector so as not to snap it off

    Andrew Truglia - 返信

    During reassembly: be aware that the replacement antenna connector (the one that comes as part of the lightning port assembly) might be a very snug fit here. It probably took me close to 10 minutes to get mine on. Thankfully the little sucker is stronger than it looks, or else I would have smushed it flat multiple times. You’ll know that you finally have it when it lightly snaps in place.

    crimsontideaggie - 返信

  36. スパッジャーの平面側先端をLightningコネクターのリボンケーブルの下に差し込みます。ロジックボードのソケットからケーブルを押し上げて、接続を外します。 スパッジャーの平面側先端をLightningコネクターのリボンケーブルの下に差し込みます。ロジックボードのソケットからケーブルを押し上げて、接続を外します。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端をLightningコネクターのリボンケーブルの下に差し込みます。ロジックボードのソケットからケーブルを押し上げて、接続を外します。

    Reassembly: A lot of adhesive held this cable down. Had difficulty getting this ribbon cable reconnected to the socket; it kept popping back up. I think the antenna cable was not exactly where it needed to be, and I had to mess with logic board a bit to make sure the antenna cable was wedged down where it needed to be.

    Heidi Moser - 返信

    Unless you are replacing the speaker you may skip to step 46 as removal of the logic board is not necessary.

    Bryan Solo - 返信

  37. ロジックボード右側2つのクリップからアンテナケーブルを丁寧に外します。 ロジックボード右側2つのクリップからアンテナケーブルを丁寧に外します。
    • ロジックボード右側2つのクリップからアンテナケーブルを丁寧に外します。

    nope, don't bother taking the logic board out if your just replacing the lightning connector. when removing the speaker in the steps after you can just fold it over to the side leaving it connected by the antenna. obviously not very professional but saves a very lot of messing with the 6s's stupid wee plastic clips, brackets and what not.

    waynemcguigan - 返信

    Thanks friend!!

    Pedro -

    Wish I had read this comment earlier. Had a bear of a time reconnecting this antenna cable.

    Heidi Moser - 返信

  38. ロジックボードに付けられたNFCブラケットから1.3 mmプラスネジを取り外します。
    • ロジックボードに付けられたNFCブラケットから1.3 mmプラスネジを取り外します。

  39. NFCブラケットを取り出します。 NFCブラケットを取り出します。
    • NFCブラケットを取り出します。

    Именно эта деталь отвечает за нормальную работу ApplePay, при возникновении ошибок часто является причиной, но не всегда.

    Matvey Sokolov - 返信

    “This particular part is responsible for the normal operation of ApplePay, when errors occur it is often the cause, but not always.” Translated this comment into english because I found it very helpful and figured other english speakers would find it helpful to know as well.

    TitanTech Service Center - 返信

    Does this also have to do with Airdrop?

    Richard Leknes - 返信

  40. 次のプラスネジを2本取り外します。 ロジックボード上部から2.5 mmネジー1本
    • 次のプラスネジを2本取り外します。

    • ロジックボード上部から2.5 mmネジー1本

    • 背面ケースの上部サイドに留められた1.4 mmネジー1本

  41. プラスチッククリップを取り出します。 プラスチッククリップを取り出します。
    • プラスチッククリップを取り出します。

  42. 背面ケースに付けられたロジックボードから次の3本のネジを取り外します。
    • 背面ケースに付けられたロジックボードから次の3本のネジを取り外します。

    • 1.9 mm プラスネジー1本

    • 2.5 mm六角ナットー1本

    • 1.8 mmプラスネジー1本

    The tool to remove the hex standoff screw WASNT included in the recommended parts list. A hex driver bit WAS included; however the hex screw needs to be removed using a socket type bit. I removed it using the tweasers as pliers.

    mario cruz - 返信

    You're right, we listed the wrong driver type. It's listed correctly now—the 2.5 mm nut driver is the tool you want.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    For some reason the 2.5 mm nut driver in my iFixIt tool set does not work. I think the nut is a bit too shallow (short) to fit into the driver itself

    ray - 返信

    Hi Ray! If you think you have a faulty bit, please don’t hesitate to contact customer service, they’ll take care of you!

    Sam Goldheart -

    I found the same problem with the 2.5mm nut driver in my, non-iFixit, precision set. The nut is too shallow to engage with the hex socket because of the shape of the rounded edges at the mouth of the socket. Managed to overcome this by carefully re-engineering the socket with a diamond flat file ie filing it to remove the rounded edge and leave the hex opening flat and square. Worked perfectly after this.

    Laurie MacDonald - 返信

    The funny thing is that for some reason the pentalobe bits seem to let the screw nut go out and screw back in.

    Ben -

    The pentalobe driver works perfect with the 2,5 hex nut. Much thanks for the tip: saved me lots of time since I didnt have the appropriate driver handy !

    Philippe PIOLAT - 返信

  43. 開口ピックを、ボードとスピーカーの間にあるロジックボード下部の端から差し込みます。 開口ピックを使って、丁寧にロジックボードを持ち上げます。 ロジックボードを取り出します。
    • 開口ピックを、ボードとスピーカーの間にあるロジックボード下部の端から差し込みます。

    • 開口ピックを使って、丁寧にロジックボードを持ち上げます。

    • ロジックボードを取り出します。

    On reassembly, be sure the audio control cable isABOVE the logic board when you place it.

    Cathy Sanford - 返信

    Thank you for the detailed instructions. They were very easy to follow. Hope it works; fingers grossed.

    Frank Diaz - 返信

  44. Taptic Engineに留められた1.5 mmのプラスネジを2本外します。 Taptic Engineを取り出します。
    • Taptic Engineに留められた1.5 mmのプラスネジを2本外します。

    • Taptic Engineを取り出します。

  45. ピンセットを使って、バッテリー下部の端から接着剤ストリップの一部を剥がします。 ピンセットを使って、バッテリー下部の端から接着剤ストリップの一部を剥がします。 ピンセットを使って、バッテリー下部の端から接着剤ストリップの一部を剥がします。
    • ピンセットを使って、バッテリー下部の端から接着剤ストリップの一部を剥がします。

  46. 作業中、接着剤ストリップにシワが入らないようご注意ください。シワが入ってしまうと作業継続が困難となり、ストリップを元の状態に戻せなくなります。 iPhoneの下に向かって接着ストリップをまっすぐ引っ張ります。 色々試行した結果、ストリップを60度、あるいは60度以内の角度で引っ張ると効率が上がることが判りました。
    • 作業中、接着剤ストリップにシワが入らないようご注意ください。シワが入ってしまうと作業継続が困難となり、ストリップを元の状態に戻せなくなります。

    • iPhoneの下に向かって接着ストリップをまっすぐ引っ張ります。

    • 色々試行した結果、ストリップを60度、あるいは60度以内の角度で引っ張ると効率が上がることが判りました。

    • ストリップは本来の長さから何倍にも伸びます。しっかりと引っ張り、長くなるとデバイスに近いポジションに持ち替えます。

    • ストリップが完全に取り出されるまで引っ張り続けます。

    • 作業中、バッテリーの接着ストリップが切断した場合、指先や先の尖っていないピンセットを使って残りの接着ストリップを掴み、引き続き引っ張ります。

    • 作業中、接着剤ストリップがバッテリー下で切れてしまい、ストリップを取り出せない場合は手順48に進んでください。

  47. 次の接着剤ストリップも前の手順と同じ作業を繰り返します。 2番目のストリップを取り出す作業中、片手でバッテリーを押さえてください。背面ケースからストリップが外れた際に、バッテリーが本体から飛び出してしまう可能性があるためです。
    • 次の接着剤ストリップも前の手順と同じ作業を繰り返します。

    • 2番目のストリップを取り出す作業中、片手でバッテリーを押さえてください。背面ケースからストリップが外れた際に、バッテリーが本体から飛び出してしまう可能性があるためです。

  48. 3つの接着ストリップ全てを取り外せたら、次の手順に進んでください。そうでない場合は、背面ケースからバッテリーをこじ開けて取り出す必要があります。 iOpenerを準備して、背面ケース裏側のバッテリーに直接バッテリー裏側にあてます。ヒートガンやヘアードライヤーでも代用できます。
    • 3つの接着ストリップ全てを取り外せたら、次の手順に進んでください。そうでない場合は、背面ケースからバッテリーをこじ開けて取り出す必要があります。

    • iOpenerを準備して、背面ケース裏側のバッテリーに直接バッテリー裏側にあてます。ヒートガンやヘアードライヤーでも代用できます。

    • 約1分後、デバイス本体を裏返して、バッテリー裏に残っている接着剤を剥がすため、プラスチックカードを差し込みます。

  49. バッテリーを取り出します。
    • バッテリーを取り出します。

    • バッテリーを再装着する際は、このガイドを参照して、接着ストリップを付け替えてください。

    Note for reassembling: reinstall the battery after the logic board is reinstalled, to avoid any missalignments of the battery

    michaelko - 返信

  50. フラッシュブラケットに付けられた1.3 mmプラスネジを1本外します。 フラッシュブラケットを取り出します。
    • フラッシュブラケットに付けられた1.3 mmプラスネジを1本外します。

    • フラッシュブラケットを取り出します。

  51. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、背面ケース内に取り付けられたフラッシュを取り出します。 スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、背面ケース内に取り付けられたフラッシュを取り出します。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、背面ケース内に取り付けられたフラッシュを取り出します。

  52. 次のプラスネジを5本取り外します。 背面ケース左端サイドの2.5 mmネジー2本
    • 次のプラスネジを5本取り外します。

    • 背面ケース左端サイドの2.5 mmネジー2本

    • 背面ケース左側サイドの2.1 mm プラス #000ネジー1本

    • 背面ケース右端サイドの2.1 mmネジー2本

    • 再組み立ての際、これらのネジを強く締めすぎてしまうと、電源とボリュームボタンが正しくクリックしない場合があります。再組み立てを続ける前に、各ボタンのクリック機能の調子を確認してください。

    I notice these screws are different than all the othe Phillips screws, the top part by the head of the screws has no thread

    B. Jansen - 返信

  53. スパッジャーの先端を使って、背面ケースからマイクを丁寧に取り外します。 スパッジャーの先端を使って、背面ケースからマイクを丁寧に取り外します。
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、背面ケースからマイクを丁寧に取り外します。

  54. 上部コンポーネントケーブルと背面ケースの間に開口ピックを滑り込ませます。 背面ケースからケーブルを丁寧に外します。
    • 上部コンポーネントケーブルと背面ケースの間に開口ピックを滑り込ませます。

    • 背面ケースからケーブルを丁寧に外します。

  55. 開口ピックをケーブルの下に差し込み、背面ケースからケーブルを完全に外します。 開口ピックをケーブルの下に差し込み、背面ケースからケーブルを完全に外します。
    • 開口ピックをケーブルの下に差し込み、背面ケースからケーブルを完全に外します。

  56. 上部コンポーネントケーブルアセンブリを取り出します。
    • 上部コンポーネントケーブルアセンブリを取り出します。

    When replacing this harness/flex, the mute switch is not supplies with the REQUIRED bracket. There is no way to securely attach the mute switch to the original mute bracket or to a replacement bracket. The supplied mute switch only (less bracket) makes this entire repair useless as there is no way to fasten the switch to a used or replacement bracket as it is all one assebmly. SOLUTION: purchase a flex with all metal parts attached to the flex. These are available from other suppliers. Why iFixit sells this one likely because it's cheaper but this repair using their bracketless mute switch is NOT possible.

    Jblack - 返信

    A bummer that I discovered your comment after I tried and figured this out myself. This is really frustrating that iFixit does not warn one that the repair can’t work with the part they sell

    arnstefan - 返信

    The guide has been updated to include how to transfer the mute switch from your old cable to the new one.

    The part iFixit sells is fully functional and should allow you to complete the repair. Sorry about the confusion!

    Arthur Shi - 返信

    Where it was updated? People are saying about mute switch wich are attached to the metal part not plastic one. You can not do anything with it.

    radiogen - 返信

    We added the step below this (step 57) to demonstrate how to remove the mute switch cover. As for the actual microswitch, the replacement part iFixit sells should have that installed on the metal bracket.

    Arthur Shi -

  57. 交換用のパーツにミュート用スイッチカバーが付いていない場合は、このスイッチカバーを取り出して、交換用パーツに移植してください。 スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、古いブラケットをしっかりと押し込んで固定してください。 ピンセットまたは指先を使って、スイッチカバーを慎重に揺り動かし、スイッチカバーのピンがクリップから外れるようにします。
    • 交換用のパーツにミュート用スイッチカバーが付いていない場合は、このスイッチカバーを取り出して、交換用パーツに移植してください。

    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、古いブラケットをしっかりと押し込んで固定してください。

    • ピンセットまたは指先を使って、スイッチカバーを慎重に揺り動かし、スイッチカバーのピンがクリップから外れるようにします。

    • スイッチカバーをまっすぐ持ち上げます。

    • ミュート用スイッチカバーを新しい上部ケーブルアセンブリにインストールするには、手順を逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

    • ピンはクリップの開口部近くに付いているはずです。 ピンをクリップ内側に押し込まないでください。 ブラケットをケースにネジで留めると、スイッチカバーがしっかりと固定されます。

    • スイッチカバーは、1つの方向でのみでオンになります。 スイッチカバーを交換用パーツに取り付けるのが難しい場合は、スイッチを切り替えて、黒い突き出たレバーが別の位置になるようにします。

    • デバイスを組み立てる前に、すべてのスイッチとボタンをチェックして、それらが機能するかどうか確認します。