はじめに

自動パワースイッチ、カメラフラッシュとマイクを含むパワーボタンアセンブリケーブルの交換はこのガイドをご利用ください。

解体作業を始める前にiPhone6のバッテリー残量を25%以下まで消費してください。アクシデントで充電されたリチウムイオンバッテリーにで穴を開けてしまうと、引火や爆発を起こすことがあります。
  • 解体作業を始める前にiPhone6のバッテリー残量を25%以下まで消費してください。アクシデントで充電されたリチウムイオンバッテリーにで穴を開けてしまうと、引火や爆発を起こすことがあります。

  • 解体作業を始める前にiPhoneの電源を切ります。

  • Lightningコネクターの両脇に付けられた2本の3.6mmのペンタローブネジを取り外します。

When reconnecting be VERY careful not to over tighten. The connectors on the screen that these 3.6mm Pentalobe screws lock with are notorious for breaking off

Blair Tryba - 返信

what do i do if ive managed to tighten them too hard and now they wont come off?

kristian686 -

Before opening the phone, I gently warmed it using a buckwheat heating pad. This made removal of the adhesive strips (steps 20 to 24) easy.

Howard Bales - 返信

Exactly what I did as well, the gently warming made the adhesive removal work like a charm. The heat as well help to lift the screen easily, no need for the prying tools for me to open te phone.

For the adhesive removal just pull it slowly to the bottom of the phone and keep in under tension.

On reassembly, turn on the phone after getting all connectors back in place to verify all is working fine before putting all screws back in their spot.

Maarten Vergauwen -

I put mine back together but mine looks very different than this one. Why is it that when I make a call I cannot hear through the ear piece and have to put it on speaker. Also my screen doesn't go black when my face touches it

Bailey Wilson - 返信

Hey Bailey, which repair were you attempting? Is it possible you have a 6s, or maybe a 6 Plus? You may have better luck with faster troubleshooting if you post in our Answer Forum!

Sam Lionheart -

See its a long time ago you had this issue. You can try to remove the cable from front camera/sensor/earpiece from the motherboard port and gently push it back on. All the problems you relate to is thru the same cable. If this dont solve your problem, check if the earpiece is correctly placed onto the polarity poles, and that the proximity sensor is lying right down into the corresponding socket. If something is blocking the sensor, yeah then the screen wont turn on/off when you put it onto your ear.

Kenneth Hilstan -

You only need 000 Screwdriver for ALL!

Tom Long - 返信

If you skip to STEP 36, you’ll see that you’ll need a STANDOFF SCREWDRIVER BIT to be able to get all the way to Step 39 and remove the antenna. Read through the comments, and you’ll see how frustrated people have gotten since my kit didn’t include the Standoff screwdriver, and I had to dig around for and carefully use a flathead, which took a very long time. If you can’t get that Standoff screw off, you’ll end up with a partially disassembled iPhone and unable to progress. Make sure you have this tool before you proceed.

Brian Mojica -

what do i do if all the screws fail to come off and if i don’t have some of the tools like the iSclack

Brandon Kato - 返信

I see in the preamble that when you replace your logic board, you would lose touch id functionality, so my question is what if you have the homebutton and thus the fingerprint reader for the logic board replacement, would touch id work?

socratesmens - 返信

The guide for the iPhone6 battery replacement needs to be revised. There are a couple of issues.

1) While the battery cover has two screws, they are different lengths. Since they are very small, it can be hard to see the difference (until one tries to screw the smaller one into the longer hole). The video needs to mention this.

2) The application of the adhesive strip if very different from what is mentioned. Also, there is a “one piece plastic” applique, and it is very unforgiving. The video should show this process in more detail.

I believe the attention to this detail would help folks correctly install their iPhone 6 batteries, and with the recent Apple disclosed battery problem, would continue to show that iFixit is very committed to the end-user.

Gary Long - 返信

Please reconsider this repair!

Before you remove any screws, please consider taking your part to a local repair pro and asking them to install it. The many cables connecting the screen assembly to the body of the iPhone are unruly and hard to reconnect. I knicked a cable and thus rendered the entire assembly and repair unfixable. I consider myself capable and tech savvy, but it’s too easy to make a tiny mistake and ruin your phone.

Bruce Coriell - 返信

I felt a bit silly getting stuck at the end of a long repair, unable to screw one of these last screws back in. What worked was gently pinching the phone above and below the screw, to make sure the screen and back were perfectly aligned.

Matt D - 返信

Apple edits posts on their Communities website that link to this fix page justifying as follows:

“We’ve edited your post because following the procedures at the site you provided may lead to damage to the user’s device.”

What is certain is that following Apple Support’s advice of resetting our phones again and again never works whereas this fix works. Apparently Apple does not want people to know that their hardware fails and can be fixed, because then they would need to explain why they don’t offer neither the fixing service nor the fixing advice by directing us to this website.

Brice - 返信

Before you get started, I suggest you confirm you are replacing the correct camera. If you are thinking of a camera, the front is the side of the device with the main lens. On an iPhone this is actually known as the rear facing camera. Once the phone is disassembled your orientation can be distorted and it is not that hard to fail to realize your are replacing the wrong camera. Doh!

William Miller - 返信

I found it very useful to use a magnet sheet when doing these repairs. I use electrical tape or a sharpie to make a grid, and place each micro screw in a separate box on the grid.

I work directly over the magnet sheet, so that if something drops I have a better chance at not losing it.

If you do lose a screw, go over the work area with a fridge magnet. It will pick it up if it hasn’t popped too far away.

Megan Telliano - 返信

次の3つの手順はiSlackのデモンストレーションです。iPhone6を安全に開口するために便利なツールです。複数のデバイスを修理する方にはお勧めです。iSlackをご利用にならない場合は下の3つの手順をスキップしてください。
  • 次の3つの手順はiSlackのデモンストレーションです。iPhone6を安全に開口するために便利なツールです。複数のデバイスを修理する方にはお勧めです。iSlackをご利用にならない場合は下の3つの手順をスキップしてください。

  • ご使用前に、iSclackの中央にプラスチック製のデプスケージが付いている場合は取り出してください。 iPhone 6のような大型のデバイスには必要ありません。

  • iSlackの持ち手を閉じて吸盤カップを開きます。

There was only one suction cup in my kit. Why show the need for two if ifixit provides only one?

Lisa Klitses - 返信

Do Not Worry. The Islack comes seprate. This guide shows you how to remove the front screen with a normal suction cup.

Owen -

I found that the single suction cup from the kit worked very well. It didn’t take that much force to separate the front panel from the phone. I think any suction cup that you are able to get a firm grip on will probably work as well. There isn’t any adhesive holding the front panel in. It just snaps in and out. If you have a cracked screen and no screen protector, it may be hard to get a good suction seal. If that’s the case, someone else here suggested applying clear tape to the front glass to get a good surface for applying the suction cup. In my case, I already had a screen protector that was still intact so the suction cup sealed easily.

fiftysomething - 返信

  • iPhoneの下側に吸盤カップを挟みます。

    • iSclackの上側の吸盤カップがホームボタンの少し上に位置するように装着します。(ボタン上に重ねないでください)

  • ハンドルを開いてiSclackの吸盤カップを閉めます。吸盤カップを取り付けて、しっかりと本体の両側に押し当てます。

コメントを追加する

  • iPhoneをしっかりと持ち、 iSclackの吸盤カップを両側に開くため、ハンドルを閉めてフロントパネルを背面ケースから引き離します。

  • iSclack は安全にiPhoneを開口するためにデザインされています。パーツの取り外しには最適なツールですが、本体ケーブルにダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。

  • 2つの吸盤カップをiPhoneから取り外します。

  • 次の3つの手順をスキップして手順8へお進みください。

The iSclack opened the iPhone 6 with little effort. I could have given even less opening pressure than I did. Fantastic tool. Worth the investment.

Tim Dougherty - 返信

It's never mentioned anywhere that with iSclack even if you save the cables, glass easily detach from plastic frame. When you ri-assembly the phone, this will involve a glass not perfectly adherent to the body. In my opinion is better if you help yourself with a spudger to lift frame from rear case when you are using the iSclack.

marco bigoni - 返信

Holy cow this tool made it so much easier than a spudger and didn't damage anything. Totally worth the investment.

Fratelli '85 - 返信

Really need to get one of these. so much easier then the basic type.

Richard W - 返信

  • iSclackをお持ちでない場合は、シングルタイプの吸盤カップを利用してフロントパネルを持ち上げます。

    • ホームボタンの真上のスクリーン上に吸盤カップを押し当てます。

    • 吸盤カップがスクリーンに固定するように、しっかりと装着します。

This is nearly impossible on a screen that is shattered

Erik Madsen - 返信

You can put clear tape over it. it works.

Owen -

Try putting a strip of packing tape on the screen. That will make the surface smooth and help keep the suction.

Joanna - 返信

John, your lips move but I can't hear what you're saying. ;-)

TimD -

Argh!! Don’t put the suction cup over the home button to pull. While it works, it also breaks the screen at the weak point below the home button. Ask me how I know.

-Tom

tombuy - 返信

  • 片手で iPhoneを押さえながら、吸盤カップを持ち上げて、背面ケースからフロントパネルを離します。

    • 時間をかけてゆっくりと、同じ強さ加減で作業を進めます。ディスプレイアセンブリは他のデバイスに比べてより強固に接着されています。

  • プラスチック製開口ツールを使って差し込み、リアケースからアセンブリを丁寧にこじ開けます。同時に吸盤カップで引き上げます。

  • フロントパネルアセンブリとリアケースを固定しているクリップが幾つかあります。吸盤カップとプラスチック製開口ツールを同時に使いながら、フロントパネルアセンブリを開けていきます。

Pulling up on the suction cup helped get me started, but what worked for me was pulling up gently while sliding the plastic prybar gently along the seam towards the top of the phone (on both sides), and it came open without having to put excess pressure on the suction.

lauren carroll - 返信

Same here, just open the gap a little with the suction cup and then use the opening tool on both sides.

Tobias - 返信

Along with the suction cup I used some Command adhesive strips to hold the bottom of the phone to a workbench as they easily pull/stretch away when you need to remove them!

Dion Sosa - 返信

That’s a very clever idea, thank you!

Megan Telliano -

Suction cup pictured here is the older version (with ring). I have one from my previous battery replacement on iPhone 5 and used that instead. The new one (gray with blue handle) kept on popping off. Overall, popping out screen was not as hard as it seems with these instructions, but do proceed with caution.

youmingc - 返信

Dion's idea to use removable adhesive strips was great, even better, use it to attach the iPhone to a clipboard. This will allow for a sort of Lazy Susan function while you work. I also used adhesive strips to attach my iPhone box to the clipboard as well and used that as a back rest (with rubber band) for the screen as pictured in steps below. This allowed me to very comfortably skip steps 13-19 as others have commented.

Adam - 返信

The new suction cup (plastic handle) is not so suctiony. Prepare for this thing to pop off a couple of times when opening the case.

Chet Seidel - 返信

Be very careful because it feels that it holds very tight but with the last pull it can fly away.

Kristaps Grinbergs - 返信

Be very careful when you pull up the display! Do not keep your other hand on the display surface or you can broke it!

Luke Man - 返信

I did all the suggestions here and it just wasn’t moving until I repositioned the suction cup up over the home button for more leverage. It finally came up enough to slip the plastic opening tool under the edge.

Alan Derrick - 返信

  • 吸盤カップの持ち手(ノブ)を引っ張り、吸引力を緩めます。

  • 吸盤カップを本体から取り外します。

コメントを追加する

  • 本体上部先端を蝶番にして、リアケースからフロントパネルアセンブリのホームボタンの先端を持ち上げて、iPhoneを開口します。

    • フロントパネルの上部端に沿って留められた幾つかのクリップは蝶番の留め金になっています。

    • 再組み立ての際は、クリップをリアケース上部端の真下に並べます。フロントパネルとリアケースの上部先端が重なるようにスライドします。

It's not clear from the instructions but it is shown correctly in the pictures: when the front panel assembly is just open (at a small angle with the rear case) pull the top edge clips out of the rear case to slightly separate the two components, then swing the front panel assembly away from the rear case. I assume not doing so would potentially damage the connecting ribbon and/or the alignment clips. Just a guess...

ethanlust - 返信

Yes! I wish I had read this before working on my phone. I read the instructions as they are and slowly started to open the case. This is when I heard my screen crack. So in the future, slowly open and when you are about 40% of the way, pull the screen forward so that the top clips pull away (we are talking a cm at most). Sigh just ordered a new screen

Albert -

Ein Tipp zum Zusammenbau: Das Display ca. in 45 Grad halten und vorsichtig an die obere Kante des Gehäuses drücken, bis es bündig und glatt anliegt.

Dann das Display langsam und vorsichtig anklappen und die Clips von oben nach unten festdrücken.

SAS - 返信

This entire process went smooth. Final step of re-assembly , the assembly does not seat into the framing. The white gasket seats on one side not the the volume button side. Alignment looks good. How much pressure does one apply on the reassembly?

Bruce Fournier - 返信

My problem is the front panel does not want to joint together with the rear panel… it feel like the front is too big but it look perfect but does not clip in place… Help…

Tony Chicoine - 返信

same problem, in the final step, the screen does not fit entirely. it looks like the size is not 100% correct, but 99%… one side of the case stays open…

Andrea Andreoli - 返信

Same thing here, with a new screen it doesn’t fit quite right during re-assembly. It sits just a little bit higher and doesn’t look seated.

Adam Carl - 返信

Some people have noted that the screen doesn’t seat properly on the case. Here’s how I solved it:

The issue is that rectangular brackets on the back of the display aren’t latching with the corresponding clips in the base. I think the brackets are missing the gap between the spring plate and bracket with the latching bumps on it on the base. Here’s my solution:

Position the top of the display slightly below the top of the case so the clips on the back top of the display start to engage with the phone case. Important: don’t push it all the way up!

Now press both sides of the top part of the display until the display seats on the back. Make sure both sides are flush with the case.

Repeat for the middle of the display. The bottom of the display will remain bent up because it will interfere with the bottom edge of the case.

Now push/slide the display up so the top of the display lines up with the top of the case. The bottom should then snap into the base, and the display should be flush with the case all round.

nigel - 返信

  • 作業をスムーズに進めるため、ディスプレイを約90度まで開いて衝立などを使用して固定します。

    • 緊急の場合は、未開封の飲料水缶を利用できます。

  • 衝立にディスプレイを固定する際は、輪ゴムを使用して留めてください。ディスプレイケーブルに不要な圧力がかかるのを防いでくれます。

A picture is worth a thousand words! This idea at Step 9 is perfect and you can definitely do the entire rest of the battery replacement WITHOUT having to disconnect the display from the rear case. Just leave it secured exactly as shown in this picture and you're good to go. I just completed the repair and the most difficult part was just lining up the new battery connector! Excellent instructions and generally EASY repair because this step was so helpful!

Ryan - 返信

I did the same. Made the work go so much smoother!

dcommins - 返信

I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you risk tearing the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. Sadness.

Ergolad - 返信

I'm going to try it this way, because the odds of damaging the connector during removal seem greater than the risk of ripping the cable, however, I plan to cradle the phone in the "L" of simple, sheet metal bookend, and secure it using blue painter's tape. Seems more stable.

bobcloninger - 返信

If you do this step carefully- (rubber band the front panel, and carefully peel away the battery adhesive) you can SKIP 13 THRU 19!

Larry House - 返信

Rubber band and a large can of soup held the front in place. Go slow, steady firm pressure. Take the vibrator out though. Makes pulling the adhesive tape out much easier. Great video and written instructions!

Sherman Homan - 返信

I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you WILL tear the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. MUCH Sadness.

todd adelman - 返信

I decided to do the repair on my iPhone 6 without detaching the screen. I ended up screwing two pieces of 3/4” x 3” x 6” wood together at right angles. I used 2 rubber bands to secure the screen to the vertical piece and 1 rubber band to secure the base to the horizontal piece. One of the two adhesive strips broke and I had to really work to get the battery out. The rubber bands held everything together nicely. The wood pieces were slightly wider than the phone which made it easy to hold everything together while I was working the adhesive strip out.

brian - 返信

Mine worked great install went perfect. Was like a new phone… for a couple months. Phone may be failing for other reasons, but there’s a ghost image in the shape of the battery in the display now. Very strange. The ifixit kit did give life to it for a while though.

smahar - 返信

Hey Smahar! If you still have your tools, I’d recommend opening your phone up to make sure the battery isn’t swollen. If it’s pressing against the screen, it’s possible that is the case. If it is swollen, I highly recommend you replace it, it can be dangerous to leave it in place.

Sam Lionheart -

  • 次のプラスネジをバッテリーコネクターブラケットから取り外します。

    • 2.2 mm ネジー1本

    • 3.2 mmネジー1本

ok well what exactly does 2.2 mm and 3.2 mm mean if a #000 is needed? why even mention those numbers?

Cory Berends -

Those are the screw lengths. They’re important to mention so that you don’t put the longer screw in the wrong place. If you start mixing up screws, you can end up with permanent logic board damage.

Jeff Suovanen -

I replace the antenna in the upper left-hand corner an in the bottom middle with the lightning connector because After disassemble it completely i lose my ability to have Cellular. After i replace both antennas i can find i nevertheless have cellular. anybody an idea ?

kupies2011 - 返信

With the phillips screwdriver included in the repair kit I cannot unscrew any of the interior screws because it is not the right size even though according to these comments all of the screws are #000 and on the product listing it says that the screwdriver I got is #000. Any suggestions?

Wilson Styres - 返信

Sounds like you need to adjust your technique. The included PH000 driver works fine; I’ve done many many phones with it.

Jeff Suovanen -

Upon reassembly I found the Red 2.2 mm screw won't seat. Is it possible it sheared off? The Orange 3.2 is solid in both holes but 2.2 doesn't securely fit in either.. Should I just leave off the 2.2?

smcgreg - 返信

My phone was missing this screw also!

Gail Starr -

Duh, had the cover on the wrong way. Switched it around and the screw fit. (:

smcgreg - 返信

When I insert the 3.2 mm screw... The phone shuts down, very weird because am not seeing what could cause this short...

Juan Monge - 返信

I’m having the same issue. Thinking about just leaving that screw out. Did you ever get your’s working?

Cavell Blood -

Using the Phillips 000 screwdriver included in the kit, I am able to remove the 3.2 mm screw, but not the 2.2 mm one.

Dan Solovay - 返信

None of the screwdriver heads in this kit are big enough for these screws!!! I now have an open iphone and i have to go to the store to buy a different screwdriver..I do not recommend this

Elaine Eason - 返信

I was unable to unscrew the 2.2mm screw with the provided screwdriver. I was able to unscrew the 3.2mm screw but not the 2.2mm

Jameison Martin - 返信

I'm stuck in the same boat here. The one screw came out no problem but the second isn't catching at all.

Brian Adams - 返信

Stuck with Jameison and Brian here... 2.2mm won't catch with all three provided screwdrivers.

Matthijs Rog - 返信

Agreed, the screwheads included in this kit didn’t work for me either. Fortunately my own toolbox has an appropriate screwdriver…. Seeing as how we are paying for this kit so we don’t need to purchase extra tools, iFixit should really include screwheads that actually work!

Priscilla Cheng - 返信

When putting everything back together, I took care of steps 10-12 (or, more accurately 12-10) after reinserting the SIM (so between steps 20 & 19). It was easier to do before dealing with reconnecting the screen.

dhcohen67 - 返信

why do i buy a kit from you guys but you don’t provide the necessary tools for unscrewing

i dont have any screwdrivers at home the 2.2mm simply wont come off its ridiculous now i just have an open phone

Michael Amara - 返信

I had to use Phillips #00 for the 3.2mm (orange) and #0 for the 2.2mm (red). The #000 screw driver came in the toolkit is useless on both screws so I had to go out and buy new ones from a hardware store…

Tung-wei Lin - 返信

My two screws are the same diameter - 1.1mm, taking a Philips PH000 driver. However the one toward the middle is 3.3mm long, the one nearer the side is 2.2mm long.

Alastair Lack - 返信

So my kit didn’t come with the right screw driver, I should have read the comments first before buying.

My iPhone 6 battery connector bracket has 3.2mm which the PH000 works. But the 2.2mm didn’t work with included Y000.

What screw driver do I need for the 2.2 mm screw??

John Palaganas - 返信

The heads on both of those screws are identical. The included PH000 is the correct driver. There are no Y000 screws anywhere in the iPhone 6.

Jeff Suovanen -

The Phillips in the repair kit worked fine. I did 2 phones with it.

Eric Craumer - 返信

Just a followup to all the comments above for anyone who is confused: the drivers included in the repair kit work fine, assuming you know how to use a screwdriver correctly in the first place. There are quite a few folks who never learned, and that’s nothing to be ashamed of—in fact it’s common enough that we made a guide for it. Those bits were designed first and foremost to work with iPhone screws and have been extensively, extensively tested. You may come across stubborn screws or strip the heads if you’re not careful, and maybe that’s why some folks here are having trouble. In the very rare event that you actually received a malformed bit of some kind due to a manufacturing defect (which should be clear just from looking at it up close), reach out to customer service and they’ll get you squared away.

Jeff Suovanen - 返信

I just completed the battery replacement and I too found that the PH000 did not sit properly in either the 3.2 or 2.2 mm screws. Using a magnifying glass it seemed that the PH000 driver bit did not sufficiently fill the space of the screw. I happen to have the iFixit Pro Kit and used the PH00 driver bit instead, and this seemed to fill the space of both screws much better leading to successful extraction and replacement. My lack of experience with phone repair may have been a factor, but it seemed at least for my particular phone the PH00 was the proper driver bit for these two screws.

Jimmy Doi - 返信

The PH000 screwdriver I received cannot remove the smaller screw…

Michael Pesenti - 返信

So I spend 34 bucks on a kit of tools to repair my phone and they send the wrong sized screwdriver to get the battery cover off. Awesome. I can get the larger screw out but not the smaller one. What a waste of time and money.

Michael Pesenti - 返信

@michael_pesenti Those screw heads are the same; the screws are just different lengths. If you have the right driver for one, you have the right driver for both, unless someone put your iPhone together with the wrong screws.

Jeff Suovanen -

@jeffsu

Nope. Actually turns out that ifixit just sent me a defective screwdriver that only was poorly sized and only managed to catch one of the screws. I had to order a new PH000 Screwdriver on Amazon and it got the screws out instantly and I was able to repair my phone.

Michael Pesenti - 返信

I used the “Maximum” precision set from Canadian Tire and the PH#00 works nicely for both these screws.

Matt - 返信

Screws in mine required different size drivers also - maybe because refurbished? But have had the same probs on mbps also. Felt silly but followed Jeff’s suggestion to look at the screwdriver best practice guide and realised I was stripping screws by using too small a driver - have a couple either side of the suggested size and use the largest one that catches - I mainly used PH#0 & 00, though some screws needed #000, and there wasn’t any consistency to which screws needed which driver.

Trish - 返信

  • iPhoneからメタル製のバッテリーコネクターブラケットを取り出します。

Why in the YouTube video do you skip removing the battery connector

mjcoughlin70 - 返信

Where to buy this bracket?

syidan - 返信

One of the screws is longer than the other, use it for the higher inside hole.

Bobby Slone - 返信

  • プラスチック製の開口ツールを使って、ロジックボード上のソケットからバッテリーコネクターの接続を外します。

  • 基板のソケットには接触せず、バッテリーコネクターのみに差し込んで押し上げます。ててください。基板上のソケットに触ると、コネクター全体を損傷することがあります。

I skipped steps 13-19 and just left the front panel rubber banded while I removed the battery. I just made sure to be careful while removing the adhesive strips so as not to move around the body of the phone too much. Skipping the steps made the whole process much faster and easier.

Tonima Chaudhury - 返信

I wish I had done that.

Gail Starr -

Thanks for this awesome tip. Made the replacement go much smoother - saved me from removing all those other screws. I also recommend watching the ifixit battery adhesive strip video before proceeding with step 21.

Andy Milne -

Me too, no need to detach the screen (when you take care),

Tom Long -

In trying to replace my antenna flex cable, I attempted to skip steps 13-19 but eventually gave up around step 31/32 as I simply didn’t have the access I needed - the space was just too cramped with the screen still attached and I was afraid I would break something. If you’re a novice, don’t have good lighting and a magnifying glass, etc. you may just want to go ahead and perform 13-19. (Yes it will take extra time of course.)

Perrin Haley -

I also skipped steps 13-19 after reading the first comment.

youmingc - 返信

I skipped those steps too and was successful. Thanks for this tip!

jaksbackpack - 返信

Can disconnecting the battery connector while power is on ruin the backlight? Or can disconnecting the power connector at a different stage ruin the back light?

mitch Toler - 返信

You should power down the phone before disconnecting the battery. That said, the backlight should be fine. A blown backlight circuit is most commonly caused by disconnecting the display when the battery is still connected.

Jeff Suovanen -

I did open the lcd without disconnecting the battery and my lcd wouldn't working

Reza I. Permana -

Thanks for that tip Tonima! This is another confirmation that skipping steps 13-19 worked out great!

As an extra measure, in addition to leaving the front panel rubber banded in it's open, vertical position (I secured mine to a can of beans) and being very careful and controlled when removing the adhesive strips; before using the suction cup to separate the front panel from the rear case, I had secured the back side of the rear case to my working surface (kitchen table) with a strip of folded over duct tape (creating double sided tape). Such might not have been necessary as I held the rear case with one hand while removing the adhesive strips with the other, though it just felt safer having the rear case (as well as the front panel) well secured in place to help assure that I didn't accidentally cause any damage to those very fragile looking cables that were left connected, by any possible movements of either of the iPhone's halfs during the pulling to remove the adhesive strips.

Russ Levey - 返信

It happened to me, by prying the battery connector with another tool I broke part of the socket off the board. However, by placing it exactly back in place the connector could be placed correctly and it works. Lucky.

Udo Schuehle - 返信

I'd like a little more explanation on how to re-attach the battery connector. But in the end I lined it up and pressed gently down till it snapped into place.

Garret Gray - 返信

I skipped the steps removing the screen only because I didn't feel confident at all doing this. For someone who is used to electronics I would really suggest removing it because I imagine the whole process would've been easier. If there's a next time, perhaps I'll do that.

Garret Gray - 返信

The suggestions that recommend skipping step 13-19 apply to some other repair. We replaced the display, and to do so, steps 13-19 are, of course, necessary.

Gabriel Zachmann - 返信

When replacing the battery you should prepare the cable to sit in exactly as you see it in the picture. I had mine all the way back in (with sticky strips) and had to find a way to fit the cable in with the weird way it bends. Dry fit the battery with cable in place - lesson learned.

Chet Seidel - 返信

Good idea. All the instructions were great until I got to the last thing- reattaching the battery connector! I like your recommendation to dry fit the connector so you can get the right bend to the connector ribbon first.

Tom Rohrer -

I wish I had seen this also, I feel like this should be in the guide. Mine seems to be working out but I had to force the connector into place a little bit.

Kevin Harvey -

I wish I had seen this first! I also had the issue, now I have a permanent discoloration of the screen where the connector is pushing against the back. Hoping that it doesnt lead to other problems. This site is really lacking on the reassembly steps… shame..

thomasjmaclean - 返信

I'm just wondering if my computer would still recognize my phone with the battery disconnected?

Sare - 返信

It appears that I haven’t properly connected the battery back up, since the hard reset didn’t work. I did my best to connect the battery before adhering it to the battery spot, but the connector doesn’t seem to “click” or otherwise confirm that it is properly positioned. The left side of the connector (closest to the battery) seemed slightly raised, which made me wonder if I had done it correctly. So I’m probably going to have to try using my last adhesive strips to lay it in better to allow for a better connection. I’m also worried that I may have damaged the connection spot. Is there anywhere on here where this is discussed? This is my second battery replacement, but first on this particular phone, which is apparently a refurbished one (and which has a slightly different looking connector cover).

Alex Kosmider - 返信

Ah, it helps to discover that it’s actually a 6S rather than a 6.

Alex Kosmider -

For those of you replacing the Digitizer you to need follow steps 13 - 19.

lowestseries - 返信

Doing a lightning connector replacement - skipped steps 13-19 as well. No problems.

cambo.robertson - 返信

Hello, Is it necessary to do step 13 to 18 if I only want to change the battery?

What does can happen if I don’t make all step?

Juan - 返信

  • フロントパネルアセンブリーのケーブルブラケットから次のプラスネジを5本取り外します。

    • 1.2 mmネジー3本

    • 1.7 mmネジー1本

    • 3.1 mm ネジー1本

  • 再組み立ての際、これらのネジを違う箇所に取付けてしまうと、基板に永続的なダメージを与えてしまいます。

Be careful when replacing the screws, not to accidentally put the 1.7mm screw into the center hole, where the 1.2 screw belongs. This can cause "Long Screw" damage, and render your phone unusable.

damianodessgillett - 返信

I don't have the magnetic pad but use duct tape face up in a tray. I write the step number and color of the screw on the sticky surface and let the screw stand heads up on the goo. The screw is presented for the driver when reassembling.

griffn - 返信

Can't stress enough how important it is not to mix up these screws! Using the 1.7mm screw for the lower left fixing will cause "long screw damage" and kill the backlight on the phone. I believe @damianodessgillett made the same point. Wish we could display a small warning message here to be extra careful for future fixers!

kev - 返信

I use a screw ID technique similar to griffn's; I print out the PDF version of the guide, then Scotch-tape each screw type to the guide at the step where the screw was removed. The screws are then distinguished by size and type at the point where they need to be reinstalled.

adlerpe - 返信

i am trying but only could open 2 screws and cannot open the rest of them, can you help me??

girlsrock742 - 返信

@girlsrock742 - I'm new here, but from what I've seen, questions like yours don't get answered. I have 2 suggestions:

# Be more specific about what your issue is.

# Make sure you're using the right screwdriver. (Get a magnifying glass & make sure the screwdriver fits nicely in the screwhead.) This guide is included in a guide I'm looking at, and my guide has a comment that #000 phillips is required for the battery connector bracket above, not #00 as documented. (That comment did not convey to this guide....)

Good luck!

Nate Schley - 返信

Nate, you are my hero at the moment! Phillips head screw driver PH000 resolved my issue. Greatly appreciative of your chiming in on this comment! Appreciatively, C.

Carol N -

Thanks to @griffn & @adlerpe! I've updated the tools list to include the magnetic pad, and -- for us infrequent fixers -- I made a note in the intro text to describe the sort of thing you two noted here in place of the mag pad.

Also, to @damianodessgillett & @kev - I've submitted an update to the instructions to add the caution you recommend to the step. Hopefully others will avoid the pain of the Long Screw damage.

Nate Schley - 返信

It's possible to damage only a slot of flex cable ? I've opened my iPhone 6 but now front camera, speaker and the proximity sensor are not working. I've bought a new flex cabe to test it, but I have to be sure about that.

cruz.giovanni - 返信

I'm so worried I'm going insert the wrong screw. Does anyone have any suggestions to knowing how to properly tell the size of each screw? I bought a screw set and a magnetic pad but still have the same issue. Not knowing the correct placement of each screw. I'd definitely appreciate any help.

Patric - 返信

Hi Patric! We use a set of calipers to measure our screws, failing that you could use a very fine ruler. If you don't have any kind of measuring equipment, line the screws up on the magnetic mat and sort them by size there. Ideally you only have screws from this step! If you are trying to determine the size of all the screws in this guide, it's probably best to get a real ruler/caliper for the fine distinctions.

Sam Lionheart -

Do you have to remove the display to replace the battery?

Michael Aguilera - 返信

It's not absolutely necessary to remove the display, I kept my display propped up throughout the operation. Removal of the display doesn't seem to offer any particular benefit, unless you have problems with the adhesive strips.

Adam - 返信

Hi. I messed up with the screws in the cover guard sheet for the display ribbon and my iPhone 6 plus isn't turning on. Does that mean the logic board is dead or the battery ? Should I throw the phone in the garbage can ?

nzf - 返信

Did anyone even answer your question? I'm having the same issue

Sare -

I can confirm it's not necessary to remove anything other than battery bracket. If you support the screen against something as in the picture, just make sure you hold the iPhone absolutely still with one hand while pulling out the adhesive strips with the other. I also used a small piece of tape to hold the screen in place against the box while I worked.

I am now a very happy customer and am looking forward to another few years life from my awesome iPhone 6!

Matt Whiteley - 返信

There is no need to do this step. No need to remove these 5 screws. Just make sure the screen is propped up against something strong and this step is unnecessary for the proper removal and re-insertion of battery.

arunhn - 返信

I left the front panel connected and it was much quicker. But, if you have to wrestle with the battery, it is much safer with the front panel removed. If you have worked on a few phone before, I'd try removing the battery with the front panel connected. If the battery is giving you problems(like if you tear the strips and have to heat the backside), you can always come back to this step.

Joel Horie - 返信

I strongly recommend you leave the display connectors alone if you can. My battery came out without a fight, but I found the display connectors to be almost tragically delicate, and I had white lines in the display when I booted it. During the subsequent attempts to remedy that situation, things went down hill and now I'm waiting for an entirely new display to try to rescue the phone from repair oblivion.

kevin hekman - 返信

I also skipped all of the screen-removal steps and had nary a problem. Just rubber band the screen around whatever it is propped against and I believe you'll be fine.

Billy Bob Baler - 返信

Hello! I put the screws on in the wrong order and I believe my backlight is dead, iTunes still recognizes my phone when I plug it in, but the screen is blank. Is it possible to replace the logic board or is the phone useless forever?

Tanya Lyn Willard - 返信

You probably connected the cables wrong, try doing this step again and carefully correct your cables.

June Beltran -

Remove each screw, tape it to a piece of letter paper, mark what spot it came out of. red, yellow, orange and the 3 reds. This way you can not possibly put them back in the wrong spots.

smahar -

I totally recommend doing this step first before removing the battery connector bracket, it will be much easier and comfortable with the screen out of the way.

Also I recommend drawing the bracket on a piece of paper and place the screws on top of the respective position on the drawing, this way you won't be confused when putting them back.

June Beltran - 返信

I accidentally lost a 1.2mm screw while doing a screen replacement. Will this make the phone malfunction in anyway after I close it back up or its fine?

Walter White - 返信

DO NOT DO THIS STEP. It is totally unnecessary to remove the connectors, and they are a really big pain to put back in, and there is risk of damaging them, and it adds a lot of time to the process of replacing the battery. Just securely prop up the front panel, and then if you gently heat the back of the phone when removing the adhesive strips, the battery comes off easily. I could have saved myself about 2 hours and a lot of frustration if I had just left these connectors in. I wish the instructions here would just include this step (connector removal) ONLY IF the battery doesn't come out easily.

J Marr - 返信

Exactly, just like J, Marr indicates, this step is not necessary. Just make sure you're careful to not move the phone too much, otherwise you can damage the film connectors. Other than that I even heated my phone to remove the adhesive, and thank God, nothing bad happened to it.

Mc Floyd -

It’s only necessary if you’re like me an need to fix the screen or water damage (mine fell in water…)

jacobdanderson -

I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you risk tearing the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. Sadness.

Ergolad - 返信

How can't you do step 33 if you don't do 13-19? iPhone 6.

predylindsay - 返信

I'm missing something here, I want to swap out the screen. How does one skip steps 13-19 if wanting to remove the screen?

BW Lee - 返信

Any tips for removing the 1.2 mm screws? Mine won't budge at all with the PH000 and I'm afraid I'm stripping the screws.

MClare - 返信

I had to use the larger bit for ALL of the screws as the small one was too narrow at the tip to actually grab anything. It worked but made it a bit more difficult.

Heather Best - 返信

Is it really necessary to remove the front panel at all, can't you just ask a friend to hold it in an upright position while you work on the battery?

Peter - 返信

I also skipped steps 13 - 19. Just be very careful not to apply to much stress to the connectors in between the screen and the base. For me I also used another box to keep the base from sliding around while removing the battery.

Patrick Reed - 返信

You cannot skip these steps, of course, when you want to replace the display (which was the kind of repair we did).

When putting the little connectors in place again afterwards, I can recommend to hold the connectors to the display using a little rubber band. That way, they don’t get in the way when you put them in place one by one.

Gabriel Zachmann - 返信

You SHOULD do the steps of removing the display. I have done battery replacements on several dozen phones. Of the ones I did NOT remove the cables, 2 of them had issues directly related to components related to these cables (front facing camera, earpiece speaker, etc.). Although tedious, I recommend removing these connectors to prevent any short circuit when reconnecting the new battery.

ACMT - 4 years.

jonbessom - 返信

I skipped this step and just affixed the screen to the Iphone box with a rubber band during replacement. I decided to take this risk to prevent some of the other issues that have been discussed when removing the screen. I understand it is risky because if you slip or need to use any significant force to remove the battery, disaster awaits. On my repair, it worked out fine and I ensured that I took my time and kept the bottom of the phone held to the worksurface.

Michael Kirkpatrick - 返信

There are only 2 screws when i opened mine.The centre one and the left top corner one..Is it okay to use it like that..Please help

Naresh Annepu - 返信

If you can try to leave your display how it is. I removed it and it ended with white stripes and touchscreen not working. After a while it touch started to work and stripes went away. I think it was static electricity.

Kristaps Grinbergs - 返信

If you decide to go ahead with this step… I did it prior to removing the battery bracket and found it to be easier. Having the screen off made things a lot easier during the battery removal process.

Eric Craumer - 返信

Two of the screws are damaged and I can’t open them. What can I do to remove the bracket?

L He - 返信

Stay organized with the screws with just a piece of paper. Lay them out, mark ‘em up. Go slow, take your time.

Sherman Homan - 返信

I'm noticing some questions I have that others are asking yet no one is answering. You're all talking about the same problem that I find completely pointless. If you skip steps and it works, good for you move on. There are real questions being asked. Someone asked about losing a screw, would that effect anything? You all talk about the importance of having the screws organized, yet don't explain if someone either loses the screws or have them put into the wrong places. Since no one talks about it, I figured it wasn't as important as you all claim it is. Now my phone seems to not want to do anything anymore. Stop arguing with each other about something so miniscule like skipping steps. 40 comments on this part and 5 people actually have real problems but no answers. So, if anyone actually took the time to read this, my questions are; what happens if the screws are put in the wrong order?(other than the obvious long screw damage) and what happens if we put the phone back together without some screws?

Sare - 返信

@sarery I’m a little puzzled by your question. If you’re not willing to put the screws back in the right place as instructed, despite all the warnings in both the guide and the comments, why would you want to attempt this repair in the first place? But nevertheless I will try to answer. Some screws, if left out, have no noticeable effect. That’s the best you can hope for. Other screws perform a vital function such as providing a path to ground. Some screws are made of nonferrous materials—getting those mixed up can interfere with things like compass functionality. And putting a wrong screw pretty much anywhere can result in cross-threading or component damage. The reason we go to the trouble of providing all these screw markings and measurements is to help you put your phone back together in perfect working order. Which you may still be able to do, if you are careful, and patient. Good luck.

Jeff Suovanen -

Thank you very much for that information. That's all I and I believe some other people were curious about.

That's what I thought this website was for, not post fighting over who's the smarter one and not putting others down. This isn't Facebook

Sare - 返信

well said Sare - perhaps if folk stuck to the subject instead of proving how clever they are (not) there wouldn’t be 44 comments to scroll through to find an intelligent answer

philbjh - 返信

For those who are removing the digitizer, you do need to remove the bracket to get access to cable.

lowestseries - 返信

Definitely do NOT disconnect the screen for the battery replacement!

The battery replacement worked like a charm but now I am left with whit e stripes in the screen and touch screen functionality is lost despite many tries to get the screen reconnected.

Indiana Jones - 返信

Hello, well I accidentally put the screws back in the wrong order after replacing the charging port, phone turns on but stays on Apple screen, any suggestions? Thank you

d.rando90 - 返信

i have replaced my iphone 6’s screen twice now, first the phones fingerprint sensor wouldn’t work ( the original one ), so i replaced the entire screen ( new fingerprint sensor), but still doesn’t work and now the phones brightness is extremely dim on both screens. So now both screens now are dim and finger print sensors dont work.

Regan Murray - 返信

I have some issue with the 3.1 mm screw. Only this one can’t put it back, but I take off the metal that can turn it on. (I just feel 2~3 circle to turn the screw.) What it’s happen?

AndyKao - 返信

  • 基板からフロントパネルアセンブリのケーブルブラケットを取り出します。

コメントを追加する

  • 次の4つの手順ではケーブルコネクターのみに差し込んで持ち上げ、基板上のソケットには接触しないでください。

  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、正面カメラとセンサーケーブルコネクターの接続を外します。

I can not get these electrical connections to reconnect. If there is some secret to this it should be noted. I now have a phone all taken apart and can not get it back together. It makes no sense to only give directions to take a phone apart and not to put it back together.

douglas hughes - 返信

Use sideways bright light and peek underneath as you mate the contacts to align properly. Press very gently and evenly. Others have written that too much pressure in the center may warp the contact.

mahoffman - 返信

I'm having the same problem as above...really upset and frustrated at this point. :( 2/4 connectors (top and right) will 'click' just fine...the other two (bottom two) for the life of me wont connect!!!! :( any suggestions? i feel like i have tried everything. Sucks that is only thing stopping me screen from being repaired....

alyssaavaldezz - 返信

Hi alyssa. Were you able to connect the cables? I am having the same problem

Veronica del Rio -

regarding cable connects - if two of the ribbon cables are not properly overlapped around each other, then it will appear as if cable #2 will need to plug into the closest jack, which is actually for cable#3. Look at the two connectors carefully - they are opposite gender and can't be interchanged.

David Panak - 返信

This is good advice, and usually the problem people experience here. There is a very specific way the ribbon cables are layered, and if not correct when reassembled, the reach of the cables will cause you to assume which cable goes where and to try to insert the wrong plugs into the wrong sockets. Please do not try to force them. If they don't snap in easily, examine them closely, and you'll see the plugs and sockets are slightly different sizes, with one wider than the other. Better to take care to note how the cables layer during disassembly, or perhaps mark them to avoid this frustration on reassembly.

gybeho -

Check order of cables. From screen replacement.

lee moran - 返信

my problem is that the connectors are different the screen i replaced it with the connectors were longer than the broken screen even though there the exact same type of screen

andrew midgett - 返信

Probably just have the cables out of order. Check the posts above.

gybeho - 返信

"gybeho" Ok, but it's impossible to install flex cables out of order. Each one has diferent sizes of docking...

cruz.giovanni - 返信

it is very possible to install flex cables out of order. to most people working on their first screen replacement they do not have the experience to notice that their flex cable connection is different than the dock connection. this causes them to press harder and force the connection into the dock, ruining the connections, if they do not think the they have the cables out of order

Dakota Navarrete - 返信

I'm with Andrew Midgett. The connectors are just plain different in size and orientation. My phone matches what's shown in the picture above. You can see an example of the replacement part if you search Amazon for "Sanka LCD Touch Screen Digitizer Frame Assembly Full Set Screen Replacement for iPhone 6". And Sanka isn't the only iPhone 6 replacement that looks like that, so no hating on that manufacturer here.

Does this mean that some iPhone 6 phones have one set of connectors and some have a different set? FWIW, the model on the back of my phone says A1549.

PG McLaughlin - 返信

Update: Searching for iPhone 6S instead of 6 on Amazon, I see lots of replacement screens with connectors that look a lot more like what I have and what's shown in the picture above. (One connector has a horizontal orientation, the other is vertical. I can't be sure whether the pins or dimensions match otherwise.) Any wisdom here?

PG McLaughlin - 返信

Had the same problem with the correct layering of cable harnesses. Perhaps an additional photo showing the correct layering would be helpful for 1st timers?

William Breen - 返信

+1 for a photo showing the correct layering and routing of cables. I accidentally routed the home button ribbon above the digitizer ribbon and beneath the power and backlight ribbons. The uneven pressure it put on the digitizer connector after tightening the plate caused my digitizer to not recognize touching the display or made touches appear off center.

drpotter -

For everybody who thinks they can skip these steps I commend you. No way I would have been able to get my battery out - two broken strips - without removing the screen. Re-inserting these cables was not really difficult - once the first one is back in place the rest follow quickly.

Chet Seidel - 返信

I tried to reconnect these for ages until I watched a video of someone else doing it.

Don’t try to line up the connectors by looking at them with the screen leaning on a soda can, just hold the two halves in each hand and line the first one up by feel. Really. After that it’s plain sailing.

Even with great lighting I couldn’t make this work with the bits on the bench - yet when I picked them up it was really easy to feel them line up. I had all four popped back on in about 60 seconds.

Pitt Monqui - 返信

  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ホームボタンケーブルコネクターの接続を外します。

Muy buenas....una pregunta tecnica...si el botón falla o no está bien conectado...al conectar este conector ¿ se apagaría el teléfono?. Repare mi iphone y al conectarlo se me apaga el movil, sin embargo si no lo enchufo el movil enciende perfectamente.

Gracias.

Berta fernandez - 返信

  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ディスプレイデータのケーブルコネクターの接続を外します。

  • デバイスの再組み立ての際には、ディスプレイデータケーブルがコネクターから飛び出してしまうことがあります。これは電源を入れた時に白黒画面となる原因となります。この状態の場合、単純にケーブルを一旦外して電源を切り、再起動してください。ベストな再起動方法は、バッテリーコネクターを一度外してから再装着して電源を入れることです。

you missed the name of the second connctor. there are four total

copykatt - 返信

My screen is completely black and i can see the lights turning on when i press the home or lock button. Maybe this cable got damaged ?

Gabriel Hirata - 返信

Perhaps you bought a faulty screen. Often this is the case when it shows completely black.

William Mullan - 返信

When I was preforming this step, while reassembling, I had to connect the digitizer cable four times. On the last time, before screwing the Front Panel Assembly Cable Bracket on, I reconnected the battery connector and turned my phone on (ensuring that I was careful not to damage any cables!) to ensure that all cables were connected correctly and that the screen was fully functional.

Christopher - 返信

NO NO NO ! i am a professional iphone repairman and i strongly recommend against using ANY tool to disconnect the flex connectors if u slip or use to much force you will damage the connector and may cause permanent damage to the phones logic board rendering it completely UNrepairable! Instead gently use the edge of your fingernail and pry up and the connectors will usually come off with very little effort .

taylor sparks - 返信

Fingernails work great as well! However, there's nothing wrong with using a tool, as long as you exercise a little caution. If you've ever seen one of Apple's iPhone service manuals, you'll note that they use the exact same tool as iFixit (Apple calls it a "black stick" and iFixit dubs it a "spudger.")

Jeff Suovanen -

I'm pretty sure ifixit are pros, I used them 4 times to fix phones and no problems with using tools for flex cables.

Dave - 返信

If you still have white lines after you've tried reconnecting the connectors and power cycling. Just do a hard reset a few more times, let the phone stay on and wait a while. As long as it's not damaged, the lines will fade over the next hour or so. Your phone will be as good as new.

grjos - 返信

If my screen is giving me white lines and occasional ghost clicks on the right side does anyone know if it’s possibly only a faulty cable vs needing a full screen swap? I’d rather not waste a perfectly good screen.

Andrew Hill - 返信

what if my phone wont turn back on even after following all these steps carefully . i even put the old screen back on and it wont turn on still???

Daniel Murcia - 返信

what if the batery was not disconnected?

Sergio Midence - 返信

Re-connecting display data cable was trickiest part for me - my eyes are old! I had to do it a couple of times as the cable had indeed popped off its connector, resulting in a black screen when turned on. Needs lots of patience and good lighting, also helped to have a really good look at plug and socket under magnifying glass to see how they fit together, and to reconnect using finger rather than tool - this helped me feel when I had eventually connected properly.

Trish - 返信

Followed steps to a “T” - got phone up and running successfully! However, there is a vertical line in the center of the screen that changes color with whatever button is being displayed in the center screen. For example, a dead battery icon shows a red vertical line, acknowledging a blue “OK” button when setting up the phone shows a blue vertical line, etc. Essentially it’s not a black screen or white lines. Could it be that the display data connector is not correctly attached or perhaps a faulty connector?

Cyndi - 返信

  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、デジタイザーケーブルのコネクターの接続を外します。

  • デジタイザーケーブルを再接続する際は、コネクターの中央を押さないでください。コネクターの一方端を押さえてから、反対側を押さえます。コネクター中央を押してしまうと、コンポーネントを曲げてしまい、デジタイザーにダメージを与えてしまいます。

Reassembly was harder than other i devices I have worked on. A bench light from the side helped a lot with the first cable, the digitizer. The others went a bit better in this crowded space. I had screen lines when testing it out before closing the top, so reinstalled all four connectors here with the aid of a side light and happily, that worked!

griffn - 返信

i crossed over the first two cables initially, when re-assembled; make sure by the WIDTH that you are trying to connect them in the right order.

awr - 返信

How many times can i peel these connections without braking the connection between screen and logic borad

falken1337 - 返信

Is this the breaking down process for the Verizon version of the iPhone 6s? I know the flex cables were different for other versions and with my last iPhone I made the mistake of ordering one that had completely different cable places. Someone please send me a link to one that fits the Verizon 4.7 display!!!

Bailey Duncan - 返信

This break down isn't for a 6S. It is for a plain 6 (no S). Yes there is some differences because of the 3D touch feature.

Keith Mullins - 返信

So what is the fix if there is digitizer damage? Replacing the screen?

After reinstallation, I am encountering issues with an area of the screen that is not responding to touch. Everything else works fine.

Anyone have any ideas how I should proceed?

Jonathan Rivera - 返信

I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to Place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

So, look at the first connector with a magnifying glass, the shortest one, closest to the camera. Maybe I got a little lucky when I managed to fix the connector without replacing it. Good luck. I feel your frustration all the way to Sweden.

// Simon

Simon Tengstrand -

I mean digitizer Cable= the first connector (lcd connector).

Simon Tengstrand -

I had the most issues when reassembling with this step. The plastic tool is a fail in my experience since not enough pressure could be applied using it. I just ended up using my finger and that worked 10Xs better. My advice, watch a few YouTube videos of people reconnecting the connectors and you'll be fine.

grjos - 返信

I have dis-connected and reconnected several times with the white line appearing each time. The screen however seems to be responsive. I did lose a 1.2 mm screw. Is it the missing screw or did I damage the digitizer connection?

Charlotte - 返信

I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

So, look at the first connector with a magnifying glass, the shortest one, closest to the camera. Maybe I got a little lucky when I managed to fix the connector without replacing it. Good luck. I feel your frustration all the way to Sweden.

I had three screws left when I did some repairs on my iphone 4 and that didn't matter. It worked like a charm :)

// Simon

Simon Tengstrand -

I mean digitizer Cable= the first connector (lcd connector)

Simon Tengstrand -

Be especially careful in this step or your iPhone won’t respond to your touch after reassembling.

Ume Nishikino - 返信

My home screen button is not working after reassembly, not only the Touch ID but the actual button doesn't work. I have iPhone 6S . How can I fix this? Thanks

Sissy -

I noticed that I had bent this connector. Barely. After about a dozen connect/reconnect attempts, bent it back and everything works as intended. Prior to bending it, was getting white lines and touchscreen was unresponsive. After bending and reconnecting, fired up exactly as it had prior to disassembly.

Heywoz - 返信

  • リアケースからフロントパネルアセンブリを取り外します。

Is it not possible to start here? Just leave the screen assembly attached and only replace the home button?

Joeri Boersen - 返信

Please don’t do that. You will break your cables almost assuredly if you leave it attached to your phone trust me

Curtis Jordan Lenox - 返信

Is front camera supposed to be attached to the digitizer?

Neos Kosmos - 返信

  • 本体側面のSIMカードトレイの小さな穴に、SIMカード取り出しツールかペーパークリップを挿入します。

  • 奥までぐっと押し込み、SIMトレイを開いて取り出します。

  • この押し込む作業にはかなりの力を入れなければなりません。

Why isn’t this the first step in the process? Seems unnecessarily risky to fumble with popping the SIM in and out when you’ve already opened up the phone.

Perrin Haley - 返信

If you don’t have something small enough to open it, you can use the lever when the screen is off.

Lucas Rowlands -

  • iPhoneからSIMカードトレイのアセンブリを取り出します。

  • SIMカードを再挿入する際は、トレイに対して正しい方向に入れているか確認してください。

コメントを追加する

  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、Lightningコネクターケーブルの接続を外し、スピーカーの邪魔にならない位置に折り曲げます。

How vital is that foam looking piece on top of the antenna cable connector? It popped off when I was lifting.

Carter Christie - 返信

Same thing happened to me. I hope it's not too vital!

paulflicker - 返信

If the foam piece on top comes off (which it probably will), replace with a tiny piece of electrical tape to maintain electrical isolation.

Colin Lacey - 返信

  • スパッジャーの先端を使って、ロジックボードのソケットからアンテナケーブルを持ち上げます。

Definitely was a very small snug fitting connector.

ronjon40 - 返信

ripped off the foam on top while trying to pry it out. Also careful not to pull the entire logic board while doing this

Jordan Leong - 返信

Ah, isn't that a bugger to get back in place after finished repairs! Be patient! Position and gently press. If no click, reposition and try again... time an time again. Did I say, be patient?

Lars Andersson - 返信

Yes to this. Listen for that satisfying click…

Christa -

I found that this is not the best tool for removing this component.. The connector is round and the the pointed tip of the tool makes it very easy to slip off the connector and do damage to other components. As I was trying to disconnect the connector, the tool slipped and tore the wire out of the connector. The flat end of the spudger seems like it would work better.

Trent Warner - 返信

Yes, the flat end of the spudger works definitely better.

Alexander Kvasov -

(I had to do this step to replace the antenna flex cable)

I couldn’t pull this connector at all. Tried tip of spudger, flat end of spudger, my nail (which even got a dent in the process ^^) and finally the tweezers (I know, risky) but the little bastard wouldn’t come off…

I managed to pull out the logic board very carefully and twisted it in the least straining way for the cable to access the flex cable on the back.

In the end everything was fine and the repair worked ok.

Switching this step for this repair can be ok if you are extra carefull with twisting the cable

Tug - 返信

I found this step the most difficult both during disassembly and assembly. I only had a flat end of a spludger and this seemed to work pretty good, but definitely required patience to remove it. In recconnecting, be just as patient!

Bill - 返信

I found this the most difficult step, both for disassembly and assembly. I only had a flat ended spludger, but it worked ok…just require a lot of patience and careful manipulation. The same amount of patience was required to put the connector back.

Bill - 返信

Found it easiest to go beneath the cable (on the opposite side from what’s shown on the photos) and leverage from there, using tip of spudger.

Helge Fahrnberger - 返信

What antenna does this cable attach to? I’m trying to determine if this would be the cellular antenna.

kris - 返信

If you just need to look under the logic board to check for corrosion you can skip this step and just maneuver the logic board afterwords (I accidentally did this and it worked just fine and I didnt’ have to worry about putting the wire back in.

jacobdanderson - 返信

I lost the little black foam on top of this connector :(

It was not very well glued, I think I lost it while removing the whole logic board. I put some little piece of insulating tape. It seems everything works after reassembling, so…

Julien-Pierre - 返信

i broke this cable. Lol.

until now “no service”. haha

Aiman Jamali - 返信

Ripped off the little black foam on top of it.

On reassembly i simply put the foam on top of the connector. The process was working smoothly at first, but the day after tomorrow i have to open my iPhone 6 again because found it in “No Service” state and cannot find wifi :( !!!

I tried to once again assemble signal connector, yet with a full step from assembly to reassembly while cleaned the dust inside.

Thank goodness it worked after all the process. Whew

Kicky Pelealu - 返信

This morning I woke up with the same issues. No Service and couldn’t find any wifi signal.

And the unwanted thing happened, when trying to pry that small gold cable …… It’s plugged out together with it’s coupling on hte logic board LOL

Now that old iPhone 6 can’t come back to life. Sad

Kicky Pelealu -

  • 次のプラスネジをケーブルブラケット上部から取り外します。

    • 2.9 mm プラスネジー1本

    • 2.2 mm プラスネジー1本

I reached till this step to replace the antenna cable using the toolkit I ordered with the cable from ifixit shop. But I could not open the orange marked screw in this step and had to roll back the whole thing as I did not want to destroy the screw by applying force. It seems to me the #000 philips screw driver bit I got is poor quality as I had trouble opening the small red screws as well.

Any recommendation for better quality #000 Phillips screw driver?

Suhaib Khalid - 返信

Put the phone on a solid surface (table or countertop), hold the screwdriver exactly vertical, press it down hard on the screw head, and turn. That’s all it takes! You’re not going to hurt anything by pressing down firmly. Some screws just require a little more force, and using a different screwdriver won’t change anything.

Jeff Suovanen -

  • iPhone本体から上部ケーブルブラケットを取り出します。

コメントを追加する

  • 次のコネクターの接続を外す際は、コネクターのみ持ち上げます。ロジックボードに付いているソケットには触らないでください。永久的なダメージの原因となります。

  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、パワーボタンとフラッシュアセンブリケーブルコネクターをソケットから持ち上げて外します。

  • ボリュームコントロールケーブルコネクターをロジックボード上にあるソケットから持ち上げて外します。

This is the most challenging piece in wrapping up the repair. any suggestions, anyone?

Adrian V - 返信

I found that when reconnecting the smaller connector, sliding it from the top of the phone towards the battery was the easiest way to get it aligned.

Colin Lacey - 返信

  • 次のプラスネジをWi-Fi アンテナから4本取り外します。

    • 1.5 mm ネジー1本

    • 1.4 mmネジー1本

    • 2.1 mmネジー2本

unable to get 1.4mm screw out with included 000 ph driver. Any ideas?

David Craig - 返信

I´m unable to remove all 4 screws with the tools provided

Renato Caicedo - 返信

The 1.5 mm screw got stripped. Any ideas?

John Galvin - 返信

I can’t get the 1.4 and 1.5 screws out even after reading how to unscrew properly. Worried I am stripping screws.

Mareque Ireland - 返信

Try a #0 driver and be patient. Had to push down a bit to ensure connection with the screw but worked for me.

Chris Reimer - 返信

The yellow and orange circles on the left must be inverted,

Guilly A - 返信

Couldn’t remove 1.5mm screw. Looks like there is a problem with it.

Deimos - 返信

  • iPhone本体からWi-Fi アンテナを取り外します。

  • 素手でメタル製の接合点に他の金属を当てないようにご注意ください。作業の際はピンセットやグローブを装着してください。油脂は誘電率に影響することがあります。万が一、素手でこれらの部位に触ってしまったら、再組み立てする前に汚れた部分をガラス用クリーナーやイソプロピルアルコールのような脱脂剤で拭いてください。

コメントを追加する

  • 基盤ブラケットから1.6 mmのプラスネジを2本取り外します。

I have assembled an iPhone 6 and it seems that everything goes fine except the NFC. The phone does not respond to the POS when using Apple Pay. I think there should be some poor connection between the logic board and NFC antenna. If so, which screws should I scrutinise to fix this problem? Thank you.

facebook - 返信

These two little screws are in pretty tight.

Matt Lobban - 返信

I could not for the life of me get the screw on the left side out! But with the right hand screw out I was able to proceed and lift the logic board out without removing the bracket.

Kayleigh Steele - 返信

It’s not really a “grounding” bracket, but rather the RF connection to the combined 2.4GHz WiFi/GPS/BT/Diversity cellular antenna integrated in the top bezel. Thus it’s essential that you get a good electrical connection, otherwise your RF stuff won’t work.

Dormouse - 返信

I CANNOT get these screws out!

Becky n - 返信

  • iPhone本体から基盤ブラケットを取り外します。

コメントを追加する

  • 直角型のロジックボードブラケットに留められた次のプラスネジを外します。

    • 2.6 mm ネジー1本

    • 1.3 mmネジー1本(iPhoneのサイドフレーム上部に水平に留めれています)

Is there an easy way to remove the 1.3MM screw in here I can't eem to remove it by hand.

sem schilder - 返信

I'm having the same problem, did you manage to remove it?

Daniel Villanis -

I faced it today, You can use a 1.5mm flat head screw driver to remove it. The guide mentions this in step 36 for stand-off screw. Hope iFIX changes the guide to indicate the flat screw driver or remove the step here.

Anand Parthasarathy - 返信

Not sure we're talking about the same screw—this is definitely a Phillips (as shown in the photo), not a standoff. It's usually easiest with a dedicated Phillips driver, as opposed to the interchangeable bit drivers, which are fatter and a little tougher to angle in correctly.

Jeff Suovanen -

Jeff, you are right, The instructions indicate a flat head screw driver. Since I ordered the kit with the part, it is easy to assume this will be part of it. My revised comment would be to highlight that the kit would not include it if pairing with the antenna cable replacement part order. Regarding the screw, big picture did not show the screw in orange, I mistook it as the one in later step. You are right it seems to be Phillips as shown in second small picture.

Anand Parthasarathy -

I wasn't able to remove horizontal screw, but was able to continue on with the remaining steps with no problems. The logic board slid from below the angled logic board bracket.

Gar Galen - 返信

I wasn't able to remove the horizontal screw either and moved on with no problems as well. Thanks for the tip!

Kelsey Chesnut -

Also unable to remove the horizontal 1.3mm phillips screw, but it was OK as it didn’t prevent me from proceeding with later steps.

Perrin Haley -

Same for me. Couldn’t get it out, left it in - worked perfectly.

And by the way - thanks sooooo much for the comments guys - helped me a lot through this repair!

Wusels -

I’m struggling to remove 2.6 mm screw. The head seems to be very worn. It’s the only screw left, holding the board to the case. I tried to unscrew it at different angles, applying pressure. Nothing is working. Any ideas how to remove it?

Joanna Kastelik - 返信

Stripped screws are a nightmare and there are no guarantees. If it’s only mildly stripped, you can try going up one size on your screwdriver and using a good amount of downward pressure. But if it starts to strip again, stop before you do any more damage. Try some of the additional techniques in the stripped screw guide. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

This is not just a mechanical bracket, but the upper cellular antenna tuning connection to the top bezel antenna. Thus it needs a good electrical connection, or your cell coverage will be bad.

Dormouse - 返信

To elaborate; When reassembling, the 2.6mm screw needs to go in quite tight, since it squeezes a small rise in the “angled logic board bracket” (really a connector between antenna tuner and the top bezel antenna) against a small gold pad on the main logic board.

This electrical connection needs to work, else the dynamic antenna tuning won’t work - which will cause problems in radio band switching (for instance between 3G and 4G, or different 4G bands). A typical indication that you have a problem here is that it can temporarily be “fixed” by squeezing the top of the phone. It’s really a crappy design choice by Apple.

Dormouse -

I also proceeded without removing the 1.3mm screw and continued on with the remaining steps with no problems. Gar Galen (above) was correct - “The logic board slid from below the angled logic board bracket.”

Joey Imperatori - 返信

Couldn’t get the 1.3mm screw out but it didn’t stop me

Tessa Baker - 返信

  • 直角型ロジックボードブラケットを取り外します。

The right side of the bracket may be under some black tape that may need to be removed to allow you to remove the bracket.

Doug Whyte - 返信

Yes, further, It never came out for me. But, I lifted slightly and that was enough for board to slide out. Did not want to force the palstic/rubber part to avoid breaking it.

Anand Parthasarathy - 返信

I broke the part where the screw connecting it to the logic board goes. The metal part is still okay just the screw won't go in. Will it still work?

Neel Nani - 返信

  • アンテナインターコネクトケーブルをロジックボードに留めている1.2 mm プラスネジを1本外します。

Make sure to tighten these screws well when reassembling so you don't have issues with cellular reception. Had a phone that wouldn't connect to cellular connection after a screen replacement. I tightened the screw and it started working again.

Christian Abreu - 返信

If you got those strips you will have to remove the screen again and make sure you're plugging properly all the flex cables to the lógica board. Try to push them from the right to the left side.

Jas - 返信

This screw was missing from my phone. Could this be what is causing the bluetooth/GPS/wifi issues?

Kyle Sullivan - 返信

I was working on a cell reception issue and notice that this screw is missing as well. I had the screen previously repaired by a third party and am not sure if they did a poor job and lost parts, or if it was legit missing in the first place based on Kyle’s comment above.

ttilberg - 返信

The Screw and Step´s 34 “antenna interconnect cable” are missing in my phone. Could this be what is causing the bluetooth/GPS/wifi issues?

Renan Sesti - 返信

  • スパッジャーの先端を使ってアンテナ用インターコネクトケーブルを持ち上げ、ロジックボードの邪魔にならないように折り曲げます。

Argh — easy to forget on the reassemble and even easier to break! A “do the reverse” of these instructions really isn’t sufficient.

Iain York - 返信

This is part no. 00095-AF.

brendon - 返信

  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボードに付いているソケットからカメラ用ケーブルコネクターをまっすぐ持ち上げます。

    • ソケットではなく、コネクターを持ち上げるようご注意ください。ロジックボードに接触した場合、永久的なダメージを与える場合があります。

  • ロジックボードの邪魔にならない位置にカメラ用ケーブルを折り曲げて固定します。

コメントを追加する

  • 背面ケースにロジックボードを留めてている次のネジを取り外します。

    • 1.9 mmプラスネジー2本

    • 2.3 mmスタンドオフネジー1本

  • スタンドオフネジを取り外す際にはスタンドオフドライバーまたはスタンドオフドライバービットが最適です。

  • ピンチの時は、小サイズのマイナスドライバーを使用してください。ーしかしながら、滑って周囲のコンポーネントにダメージを与えないように特にご注意ください。

The standoff screw was difficult to remove because a normal phillips head screwdriver is the wrong shape. I had to use a small flat head screwdriver carefully to get it off.

Matthew Williams - 返信

I absolutely can not get this standoff screw off. Searching the web now for "iphone standoff screw" I see that there are specialized screwdrivers for getting this screw off. I wish I had one right at this moment! Anyway, an improvement to these instructions would be to mention this standoff screw upfront, so that one can be prepared with the right screwdriver before starting this job. I'm stuck at this step right now. A small flathead screwdriver just isn't cutting it.

paulflicker - 返信

Hello. I used a 1.5 mm flat screwdriver from iFixit Pro Tech Toolkit. It worked easily for me.

Angelo Mastrella -

Never use the pointy end of the spuger to put back the standoff screw in place. It can break off some plastic in the hole since it’s threaded inside and you will have major problem to remove it. If the standoff scew isn’t tight enough when you put it back on, it’s not a big deal since you will put another screw in its center at the end of the rebuild and you will be able to tighten both screws at that point. Just don’t use the spudger to put it back on. That standoff screw is a poor concept.

Mathieu Paquette - 返信

Just a side note; I understand the list of tools required for this job includes a “Flathead 3/32” or 2.5 mm Screwdriver,” but wanted to mention that a Wera 2.5 mm diver is too thick (0.4 mm) to do a good job of removing the standoff. With a fair amount of pressure I was able to make it work, but as others have pointed out, I would expect a 1.5 mm flathead driver to have a thinner head (0.23 mm from Wera) and be more suited to the task, barring having an actual standoff driver.

Kees Vermeulen - 返信

I used the battery bracket to unscrew the standoff screw

douira - 返信

1,5 flat from the Pro Tech Toolkit made it…, thanks to Angelo

Hans - 返信

  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使ってロジックボードの端にあるバッテリーコネクターをゆっくりと押し上げます。指で十分掴めるほど持ち上がったら止めます。

    • ソケットやチップにダメージを与えないよう、スパッジャーの先端をSIMカードトレイの下にあるメタルシールド近くに差し込みます。

Where is a safe place to put the logic board one removed?

Carter Christie - 返信

Where can i buy a motherboard for my iphone 6

Jeffrey Dennis - 返信

  • ロジックボード端にあるバッテリーコネクターを持ち上げて、背面ケースから外します。

    • ロジックボードがケーブルに絡まないよう丁寧に作業を行いましょう。

I've been told that the problem with my phone is the logic board. Can any standard logic board be swapped in for a defective one, or are there any additional steps needed to get the phone operational?

Dennis Gagomiros - 返信

If you are following these instructions for the purpose of replacing the commonly failing wifi antenna cable, you will find it on the back of the logic board when you lift it out. You will need to fiddle around a bit to find the right position for the 4 connectors - they are microscopic - and you will hear tiny little clicks when they go in the right places. Check by looking at the board and antenna sideways, to see that they are all in place, before starting reassembly.

Lars Andersson - 返信

good tip, to look at it sideways to confirm seating of connectors.

Christa -

5-6 days from salt water damaged so this process will work so or not and this is my first time so i m afraid…i will go ahead or not?

swayanshu panda - 返信

When re-assembling make sure all the connectors remain above the logic board. Especially the power button and flash assembly connectors shown on Step 26.

MEHMET YILDIZ - 返信

When re-assembling make sure all the connectors remain above the logic board. Especially power button and flash connectors shown in Step 26 are tricky.

MEHMET YILDIZ - 返信

6 cables to keep above the board when re-inserting: two on top left, one top right, three at the bottom.

Christa - 返信

  • バッテリーの右端下から第1のバッテリー粘着タブを剥がします。

  • バッテリーの近くで作業をするため、指や先の尖っていないピンセットなどを使って丁寧に進めていきましょう。リチウムーイオンバッテリーに穴が開いてしまうと危険な化学物質が排出され出火原因となります。

the title says power button cable assembly?!

douira - 返信

  • 丁寧にバッテリーに付けられた粘着タブを剥がしていき、iPhoneの下に向かって引っ張ります。

    • バッテリーや下部の部品に向かって引っ張らないでください。粘着タブが切れてしまうことがあります。

  • タブがバッテリーと背面ケースの間から抜け出るまでゆっくりと引っ張り続けます。タブからの抵抗感が増したとき、引っ張るのを止めて次の手順に移ります。

  • バッテリーから取り出す過程で粘着タブが切れてしまった場合、指や先の尖っていないピンセットを使ってタブの残りを手繰り寄せ、作業を再開します。

    • この作業中に粘着タブがバッテリーの下で切れてしまい、手繰り寄せることができない場合は、残りのタブを取り除き手順44まで進んでください。

コメントを追加する

  • 粘着タブからの抵抗感が増したと感じたら、バッテリーの右端下あたりでゆっくりと引いていきます。

  • バッテリーの右端から粘着タブを上に浮かすように引っ張り続けます。するとバッテリーと背面ケースの間からタブが滑り出てきます。

  • 粘着タブをバッテリーコネクターに引っかけないようにご注意ください。裂けたり傷がつく原因となります。

コメントを追加する

  • バッテリーの左端下から第2のバッテリー粘着タブを剥がします。

  • バッテリーから上向きに浮かすようにして粘着タブを引っ張ります。するとバッテリーと背面ケースの間から紐がゆっくりと抜け出てきます。

  • 抵抗感が増したと感じるまで粘着タブを引っ張り続けます。それから作業を終えます。

コメントを追加する

  • 粘着タブからの抵抗感が増したと感じたら、バッテリーの左端下あたりでゆっくりと引いていきます。

  • バッテリーの端に粘着タブを引っかけないように気をつけましょう。タブが切れてしまうことがあります。

  • 粘着タブをバッテリー左端の上方に向けて回すように引っ張っていきます。バッテリーと背面ケースの間からゆっくりとタブが出てきます。タブがiPhoneから完全に出たところで作業を終えます。

    • 2つの粘着タブを無事に取り出すことができたら次の2つの手順をスキップして手順46から作業を始めてください。

    • 粘着タブがバッテリーの下で切れてしまい、取り出すことができない場合は、この下に表示されている次のステップをご覧ください。

im so confused, with the whole battery thing, do you use the same battery? or a new on? because the tabs i saw how u had to pull them off. will the battery will work without the glue tabs?

Kaylie McClain - 返信

The glue strips are a separate component and can be replaced independently of the battery. Yes, the battery will work without them. However, it’s a good idea to replace your battery anyway. In particular, if the battery is even slightly deformed during removal, it may not be safe to re-use.

Jeff Suovanen -

  • いずれかの粘着タブが切れてしまい、バッテリーと背面ケースの間に残留した場合は、iOpener かヘアードライアーを準備して、バッテリーの後ろの背面ケースに直接熱を当てるように準備します。

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  • バッテリー端のロジックボードの下にプラスチックカードを挿入します。

  • バッテリーが曲がるのを防ぐため、できるだけカードが水平になるように挿入してください。バッテリー全体のダメージにつながり、危険な化学物質が排出される原因となりますのでご注意ください。

  • バッテリーの裏側に付けられた粘着材を剥がすため、必要に応じてカードを数カ所押し込んでください。

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  • 全ての接着剤が剥がれたら、バッテリーをiPhoneから取り出します。

  • バッテリーを再装着する際は、このガイドをご覧になって、バッテリーの接着ストリップも交換してください。

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  • 左上の背面カメラのネジを覆っているテープを取り除きます。

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  • 背面カメラのブラケットから次のプラス#00 ネジを取り外します。

    • 1.5 mmネジー1本

    • 2.1 mmネジー1本

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  • 背面カメラのブラケットを取り外します。

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  • 背面ケースからアンテナインターコネクトケーブルを丁寧に取り外します。

Anyone know what the Antenna Interconnect does? I replaced my rear housing with a clear plastic one I ordered from someone off DHGate, and they didn't have the screw mount for that interconnect, so I wasn't able to re-attach it. I couldn't figure out what it does, and the phone seems to work without putting that screw back in. I'm suspicious that bracket must do SOMETHING, right?

ben - 返信

Just conjecturing but it has a capacitor on it and must connect a transmitter chip to an antenna. Your phone would work without it but I would expect its range would be reduced.

Doug Whyte - 返信

  • iPhoneから背面カメラを取り出します。

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  • フラッシュブラケットに留められている1.2 mm プラス#00 ネジを1本取り外します。

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  • 背面ケースからフラッシュブラケットを取り外します。

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  • パワーボタンブラケットから2.2 mm プラス#00ネジを2本取り外します。

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  • スパッジャーの先端を使って背面ケースのそれぞれの穴からフラッシュとマイクモジュールを丁寧に押し上げます。

  • もし強力な接着剤が付けられている場合はピンセットを使って背面ケースからコンポーネントを剥がしていきます。

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  • コネクターの端周辺の背面ケースからフラッシュ、マイク、パワーボタンアセンブリケーブルを剥がしていきます。

  • 続けて、ケーブルを剥がしていきます。特にケーブルの終わりあたりは細くなっている部分があるので、注意してください。

  • 本体からフラッシュ、マイク、パワーボタンアセンブリケーブルを外します。

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まとめ

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

57 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:

100%

Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています! 貢献してみませんか?
翻訳を始める ›

Sam Lionheart

メンバー登録日: 2012年10月18日

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Thanks! This is helpful!

Luke L - 返信

This helped out a lot, couldn't find a good enough photo on how the power button was put back on its mount.

alexkasper16 - 返信

Took me 2.5 hours to complete this. Had a hard time getting the factory cable connector off the power button. Used some 3M Double Sided Adhesive tape- 2mm width, Black color to hold the new replacement cable connector in place on the power button. An IFIXIT video showing how to install the connector onto the power switch would be a big help. Had to use a You-Tube video to complete that step. Also, a good reminder to ensure all your connector cables are clear when reinstalling the logic board. You definitely don't want to pinch any of them. Follow the directions carefully and patience is a must! Wasn't that hard for my first time replacing this flex cable.

ronjon40 - 返信

***PRO TIP*** Order a part that already has the metal bracket attached for a few cents more and save yourself the hassle. I buy all my parts on eBay because of their awesome buyer protection and sellers always want to keep a good rating.

GotMac - 返信

I think I got a broken cable. Can someone help me with that?

It looks like this: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1...

Is it broken and can I fix it? Or is this normal and what to do?

Katrin Kohler - 返信

I’ve talked to an expert and he told me, my cable is broken for sure. So frank, thanks for you help, I’ll use it with my new ordered (and hopefully not broken) cable. :)

Katrin Kohler -

Katrin the cable you received looks fine, you just have to pull the OLD Broken cable apart/off of the metal power button assembly. That was the exact part I was stumped on not 30mins ago. Good luck :)

Also this is a very helpful and great guide, thank you!!

frank s - 返信

Anyone know if doing this helps if the button isn't clicking right?

Eddie Ramirez - 返信

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