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修理を始めるには

修理する権利

ストア

はじめに

Samsung Galaxy S6のディスプレイを交換するにはこの手順を参照してください。アセンブリはAMOLED、デジタイザーパネルを含みます。コンポーネントは半田付けされており、再組み立ての際は半田付けする必要があります。この手順は壊れたガラスや動かないタッチスクリーンを修理する際にも使えます。

フレームにダメージが入っていたり、曲がっている場合は必ずフレームを交換してください。新しい交換用のスクリーンが正しく装着できず不均等なプレッシャーによりダメージを与えてしまいます。

この手順では背面ガラスを取り外します。背面ガラスを取り外すと付けられた接着剤を剥がしてしまいます。背面ガラスを再装着する際はこの手順を参照してください。

この手順ではフレームからディスプレイを外す際にディスプレイを破壊します。もしディスプレイを交換したくない場合はこのガイドは使用しないでください。

  1. 紙クリップの先端か、SIM取り出しツールを電源ボタン側にあるSIMカードスロットの穴に差し込みます。 SIMカードトレイを押し出します。
    • 紙クリップの先端か、SIM取り出しツールを電源ボタン側にあるSIMカードスロットの穴に差し込みます。

    • SIMカードトレイを押し出します。

    • SIMカードトレイにダメージが入らないようあまり強く押し込まないでください。

    It really needs to be stated at the outset that if doing this repair to replace the daughterboard, there is a high likelihood that the display will be destroyed (even if you don’t break the display, the foil backing on it will likely be destroyed rendering it unusable). The PDF version of this guide states this at the beginning, but this online version does not.

    David White - 返信

    Done. Thanks for the tip!

    Minor editor -

  2. 電話本体からSIMカードトレイを取り出します。
    • 電話本体からSIMカードトレイを取り出します。

  3. 電子レンジに付着している汚れがiOpenerに付いてしまうことがあるので、使用前に電子レンジの底をきれいに拭き取ってください。 iOpenerを電子レンジ中央に置きます。
    • 電子レンジに付着している汚れがiOpenerに付いてしまうことがあるので、使用前に電子レンジの底をきれいに拭き取ってください。

    • iOpenerを電子レンジ中央に置きます。

    • 回転型の電子レンジ:iOpenerが電子レンジのターンテーブルで回転しているか確認してください。iOpenerが作動中に留まってしまうと、熱しすぎや焦げてしまいます。

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - 返信

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - 返信

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - 返信

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - 返信

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - 返信

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - 返信

    Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.

    Esmond Pitt - 返信

    My microwave just died, can i heat it with boiled water?

    Alex COLOMBANI - 返信

    Taping as shown is impractical when using hair dryer method—tape simply comes off in the heat and gets in way of getting out the shards on the sides. If the thing wasn’t shattered, then taping unnecessary.

    B. A. Computer Services - 返信

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - 返信

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - 返信

    The “Galaxy S8 Replacement Battery” that you are selling with the kit is the wrong battery, the one that you are selling is a 3000mAh (which is the wrong amperage) as the OEM Samsung Galaxy S8 battery is “Model #: EB-BG892ABA / 4000mAh / Normal Voltage: 3.85V / Charge Voltage: 4.4V / A/S: 1588-3366 4000mAh 15.0Wh

    stevengenat - 返信

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - 返信

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - 返信

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - 返信

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - 返信

    I’ve tried for 2 days and cannot get this to work. I should have just taken it to my local iphone fixit shop. This is a frustrating purchase to say the least.

    jeffrey hill - 返信

    Step 1 should be: now that you have looked over the tools of this repair kit, take your ipad to the nearest repair store and let them handle it. Sure you will waste about $65 by purchasing this kit and the cost of the repair but you will not tear your ipad up and you will have at least 2 days of your life that you can spend time with your family.

    jeffrey hill - 返信

    Just replaced the battery in my iPad mini LTE. Followed the Ifix step by step instructions and they worked very well. The only thing i would change is step 42. You do not have to lift the LCD connector from the logic board. So don’t. It’s an unnecessary step. Other then that all was good. It took me about 2 1/2 hours from start to finish but I took my time and I recommend you take your time also. Very exciting too finish doing it and see it come to life afterwards. Tested everything and everything still works

    Anybody want to buy my iFix battery replacement tool kit only used once cheap?

    kaplang - 返信

    i opener sucks! it’s incapable of heating factory glue enough to take a sealed phone apart and caused my backglass to shatter. i removed it the rest of the way with a soldering iron!

    Elijah Marvin - 返信

    You should, at least, mention which wattage is used for the 30 seconds heating - 750 isn’t enough, obviously. Display shatterered . Thanks.

    dr_baeschtlr - 返信

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - 返信

    At what power (how many watts) does the 30 seconds apply?

    Jarl Friis - 返信

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 - 返信

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 - 返信

  4. iOpenerを30秒温めます。
    • iOpenerを30秒温めます。

    • 修理作業中はiOpenerが冷めてしまいますので、使用毎に電子レンジに30秒入れて温めてからご利用ください。

    • 作業中、iOpenerを温めすぎないようにご注意ください。温めすぎるとiOpenerを破裂させてしまうことがあります。

    • 膨らんでいる状態のiOpenerは絶対に触らないでください。

    • 適切に温められたiOpenerは約10分間、温かい状態を保ちます。

    May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

    yamayhuang - 返信

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - 返信

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - 返信

    I don't own a microwave.

    mdanihy - 返信

    Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

    Jon - 返信

    I don't have a microwave???

    Joe Blow - 返信

    30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

    Sam Stieg - 返信

    can i use just ordinary microwave???

    juneseok kwon - 返信

    If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

    Mohideen Rifay - 返信

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - 返信

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - 返信

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - 返信

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - 返信

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - 返信

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - 返信

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - 返信

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - 返信

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - 返信

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - 返信

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - 返信

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Rapp -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - 返信

  5. 電子レンジからiOpenerを取り出します。iOpenerの中央は熱くなっているため、両端の平面になっている部分を持ってください。
    • 電子レンジからiOpenerを取り出します。iOpenerの中央は熱くなっているため、両端の平面になっている部分を持ってください。

    • iOpenerは大変熱くなっていることがあります。必要であれば、オーブン用のミトンカバーをご利用ください。

    Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

    Me berg - 返信

    Can you use an oven instead?

    Rafael -

    Yes, as does a heat gun.

    anonymous 4602 - 返信

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - 返信

    microwave on WHAT WATTAGE ??? 100 W OR 1600 W ??? NOT THE SAME

    Ivor Pocrnja - 返信

    This was not easy. I finally got a pick under the glass of my moto x4 phone after placing my phone on my kitchen hot plate and letting the hot plate go up to about 160F—measuring with a candy thermometer. I was scared of it(either the phone or the iopener) getting too hot—I checked in with another online video and saw they used a 100C heat gun for 2 min on the left side: When I figured that was 212F I got braver with heating the phone.—My screen and display were already broken. I can’t say exactly how long the phone was on the hot plate at 150-160 because the hotplate annoyingly goes on and off not sustaining a stable temperatureprobably a few

    Nahariyah Mosenkis - 返信

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - 返信

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John - 返信

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin - 返信

  6. デバイスを開口すると、防水機能を失います。作業を始める前に、交換用接着剤を準備するか、接着剤を交換しないで組み立てをする場合は、デバイスの防水性能について留意してください。 ガラスにひびが入っている場合は、取り外し作業の間ガラスを固定する必要があるため、パネル全体に透明の保護テープを貼り付けてください。
    • デバイスを開口すると、防水機能を失います。作業を始める前に、交換用接着剤を準備するか、接着剤を交換しないで組み立てをする場合は、デバイスの防水性能について留意してください。

    • ガラスにひびが入っている場合は、取り外し作業の間ガラスを固定する必要があるため、パネル全体に透明の保護テープを貼り付けてください。

    • 温めたiOpenerをリアパネルの上に約2分間のせて、ガラスの端に沿ってつけられた接着剤を柔らかくします。

    • iOpenerを数回にわたって温め、デバイスについている接着剤を柔らかくする必要があります。オーバーヒートを防ぐため、iOpenerの使用方法を参照してください。

    • iOpeneをパネルの残りの部分に移して、約2分間のせて温めます。

    • ヘアドライヤー、ヒートガン、ホットプレートでも対応できますが、デバイスのオーバーヒートにはご注意ください。OLEDディスプレイや内蔵バッテリーは熱によるダメージを受けやすいためです。

    are there any option out there that allows you to heat the adhesive outdoors without any power plug?

    Brotan Store - 返信

    There's a star in the center of our solar system, you could try that.

    John Joiner -

    the way we do it at Get it fixed cellphone repair calgary is with a heat gun, wich is way easier than this, make sure to wear some gloves and dont worry to use to much heat as long as you point just to the back of the phone, (the back panel is thick enough to protect the logic board from over heat) instead of the usual blue plastic piece i sugest to use the thinnest metal razor knife and a business card so you can insert the business card and move it all around the frame, those blue plastic things are way too thick that will break the glass panel if you apply to much pressure

    get it fixed - 返信

    After did that with my own heat pad, the white paint got ripped off but luckily glass back cover did not break. So I scratched all white part of the back cover and now its all transparent.

    Jae Chung - 返信

    haha, the same happened for me after using a hair dryer. While still hot, the paint peeled of very easily. (too bad the mid-frame visually blocks most of the circuits…)

    Michael -

    I used a purpose built heating device at 100 degree celsius. Lower temperatures didn't work.

    ken - 返信

    I used a blow dryer, attached my multimeter heat sensor to the back to monitor the temperature. At 54 degrees Celsius I could separate the back with a suction cup from my phone without damaging the paint.

    LRD - 返信

    I gave up on the hot bag after 4 heat and apply cycles. I was only getting the back up to 60c using an infrared thermometer. I switched to a harbor freight 1500w heat gun set to Low, moving constantly around the back, until the back read 95c. The back came off easily at that point.

    Nathan Wray - 返信

    using a blowtorch on low heart for 3-5 seconds at close range also works

    Achi Namaratne - 返信

    I found another site that said temps of 203F/95C were required to soften the glues. Once I started using those temps with my heat gun, as well as a tool I made by just cutting the flat front/back panel from a package of screws (any plastic package that has a flat panel will work) , I had the back off in no time. Had I continued to use the plastic pick shown in the instructions, I really doubt I would have gotten the back off since I couldn’t get enough force on the back from my suction cup. The thin package plastic acted almost like a knife as I moved it around the outside edge. WARNING: If you have to reheat the back, REMOVE THE PACKAGE PLASTIC!! It will start to melt from the heat of a heat gun. Good Luck!!

    morttormjch - 返信

    I gave up after struggling 1 hour with an hairdryer, the glass was around 65°C and it doesn't wants to lift up at all, anybody got tips ?

    123321mario - 返信

    What tools are you using Mario?

    vazersecurity -

    Iopener ist totaler Mist.

    Robert Palme - 返信

    Wenn dann braucht man mehrere um das Panel gleichmäßig zu erhitzen

    Robert Palme - 返信

    I had a pristine s6 edge I’m replacing the battery in. I can agree with many others about the amount of heart needed and need to where gloves. I had to heat several times using a heat gun. After several attempts phone broke free from suction cup went flying and now I have a phone with broken screen. Oh well, glad it’s not my primary phone. After getting it above 100c, the back glass finally started to separate. You need another person to be ready with a pick. Once you get one pick in, the rest is .

    Brian Gillan - 返信

    Neither I had any success with the iopener. I ended up heating with a hair dryer. The metallic edges become quite hot.

    BTW: My phone’s “Rear Glass” is actually plastic. It didn’t seem like it would crack very easily.

    Michael - 返信

  7. リアガラスが熱くてさわれない程度になったら、ガラスの下側端に吸盤カップを取り付けます。 吸盤カップを引き上げて、リアガラスの下に小さな隙間を作ります。開口ピックを隙間に差し込んでください。 オプションで、開口ピックが差し込めたら、隙間にイソプロピルアルコールを数滴注入すれば、接着力を弱めることができます。
    • リアガラスが熱くてさわれない程度になったら、ガラスの下側端に吸盤カップを取り付けます。

    • 吸盤カップを引き上げて、リアガラスの下に小さな隙間を作ります。開口ピックを隙間に差し込んでください。

    • オプションで、開口ピックが差し込めたら、隙間にイソプロピルアルコールを数滴注入すれば、接着力を弱めることができます。

    If the rear screen is cracked/smashed, you will not be able to use a suction cup to remove it. The suction could would not seal because of the cracks. I tried masking tape, 3M shiny HVAC tape, and others, and the suction could would not seal to those surfaces either.

    I ended up using the sharp point of the smudger to remove some shards of glass to get underneath the cover to leverage it up and out. Definitely use gloves and safety glasses if you have to do this.

    dougpender - 返信

    Thank you for your comment. I needed to see this particular instance of what to do when the back cover was cracked. I was going to try to suction it with tape covering it. This saved me some heartache. You're an angel!!

    Jessie Brooks -

    Be careful during this step- reapply heat before attempting this one (battery issues tend to melt internal “areas” ) and this area is most prone to crack during the lifting of the back plate.

    Briannah - 返信

    J’ai utilisé la même ventouse.

    En soulevant la poignée rabattable, la simple succion a aspiré un disque de verre ! J’ai brisé la vitre sans même tirer…

    pierre brunet - 返信

    I think it is just about impossible to do this without at least removing some paint on the edges. Order a new back before you attempt this. It has the adhesive already on it and costs less than $10 on eBay.

    Thomas Hayes - 返信

    In order to get in more easily, I normally use the iFlex (the metal one) which is thin enough to create a little space, and then i insert a thinner plastic sheet, just like the default screen protector you might find on some huawei or xiaomi phones. That plus half a drop of alcohol should do the trick. Use caution and be very patient.

    Stefano Restuccia - 返信

  8. デバイス下側端に沿って開口ピックをスライドして、リアガラスを固定している接着剤を切開します。 その後、ピックをそのままにして、次の手順に進むときに2番目のピックを準備しておくと便利です。 ピックを挿入したままにしておくと、切開した接着剤の再接着を防ぐことができます。
    • デバイス下側端に沿って開口ピックをスライドして、リアガラスを固定している接着剤を切開します。

    • その後、ピックをそのままにして、次の手順に進むときに2番目のピックを準備しておくと便利です。 ピックを挿入したままにしておくと、切開した接着剤の再接着を防ぐことができます。

    • 必要に応じて、リアガラスを再度温めて、接着剤の冷却に伴う硬化を防ぎます。

    Be careful that the bottom of the phone is well heated, and add a drop or so of isopropyl alcohol. When I removed the back glass of my S6, some of the black coating on the glass stayed stuck to the adhesive, so to return my phone to its original appearance, I’ll have to get a new back glass.

    Gary F - 返信

    I needed help of a second person to insert the first pick. Apart from that, it was a one person job for me.

    Michael - 返信

  9. デバイスの残りの3辺においても同じ作業を繰り返してください。 接着剤が再装着しないように、各エッジに開口ピックを残しておきます。 接着剤が再装着しないように、各エッジに開口ピックを残しておきます。
    • デバイスの残りの3辺においても同じ作業を繰り返してください。

    • 接着剤が再装着しないように、各エッジに開口ピックを残しておきます。

    At this stage I didn’t use a plastic pick as I think they are too thick and will crack a screen that’s not already cracked. I used a stainless steel

    I sesame blade which does a much better job of cutting through the adhesive. Just be careful not to insert it in too far. I sometimes put a mark on my blade to ensure it doesn’t go in too far.

    Wayne Lyell - 返信

    I used a card like the ones people use to play poker or any card game with. Only one was needed to separate the back without any damage to the paint.

    LRD - 返信

    Be sure to apply a decent amount of heat when removing the last bit of the rear glass, cracked the rear of my screen (only a small amount mind) trying too use too much force not enough heat for the last spot.

    spank2103 - 返信

  10. 開口ピックを使って、残りの接着剤を切開します。 背面ガラスを取り外します。
    • 開口ピックを使って、残りの接着剤を切開します。

    • 背面ガラスを取り外します。

    The rear glass is very fragile. I cracked mine across the camera opening while cleaning off the old sealant. Next time ( I will have to order one and do it again…doh) I’ll place it on a flat surface while cleaning it.

    Greg Scott - 返信

    This is also a really good time to remove the SIM tray

    John Murphy - 返信

  11. 新しいリアガラスをインストールするには ピンセットを使って、デバイスのカシスから残りの接着剤を綺麗に除去します。
    • 新しいリアガラスをインストールするには

    • ピンセットを使って、デバイスのカシスから残りの接着剤を綺麗に除去します。

    • 高濃度イソプロピルアルコール(90%以上)と糸くずの出ないマジックワイプで接着面を綺麗に拭き取ります。前後ではなく一方向にむけて拭いてください。こうすることで、新しい接着剤用の表面を整えることができます。

    • 新しいリアガラスから接着用シールを剥がしてください。リアガラスの一端をデバイスの筐体に向けて慎重に位置を揃え、しっかりとガラスを本体に向けて押し込みます。

    • 古いリアガラスを再利用する場合や、プレインストールされた接着剤のついていないリアガラスを使用する場合は、このガイドを参照してください。

    You should note that the adhesive strip may need to be fully removed from the frame in order to proceed with repairs. The adhesive on my phone covered all of the screws exposed in the next step.

    Sean Cruz - 返信

    When I did my battery, the adhesive stayed almost 100% on the back glass and was still in good shape. What didn’t remain attached only lifted slightly and I was able to coax it back to its original location with tweezers. I didn’t bother to remove and replace the adhesive layer because mine was still good. I set the glass out of the way where it wouldn’t get dirt on the adhesive while I finished the battery swap. I added some additional heat (hair dryer) after reattaching the glass to make sure the adhesive made the best seal.

    Wayne Thomason - 返信

  12. 今あるものを使い続けましょう

    オールインワインキットで安く修理して、節約しましょう。

    iPhone 修理キットを見る

    今あるものを使い続けましょう

    オールインワインキットで安く修理して、節約しましょう。

    iPhone 修理キットを見る
  13. 電話本体に留められたミッドフレームから 3.5mm #00プラスネジを13本外します。
    • 電話本体に留められたミッドフレームから 3.5mm #00プラスネジを13本外します。

    Make sure you do not mix up these thirteen screws with a hidden 14th screw under the mid-frame chassis, on the left side of the headphone port, on daughter-board. This 14th screw is shorter than the other screws, so make sure you do not replace it with one of the longer screws. It will push up against the front glass and lift it away from the adhesive.

    David Whyte - 返信

    Some of the female threads are soft plastic and will strip out easily (especially those near the bottom). I was pressing down too hard when removing these screws, and several of them stripped out. The frame still screwed together, but I couldn’t get them very tight.

    Jordan Butler - 返信

  14. ミッドフレームアセンブリの端をしっかりと掴みます。 電話本体からミッドフレームアセンブリを外すため、バッテリーを片手で押さえながら、ミッドフレームアセンブリを持ち上げます。 ミッドフレームを持ち上げる際は、オーディオジャックもしくは充電ポートを引っかけないようにご注意ください。
    • ミッドフレームアセンブリの端をしっかりと掴みます。

    • 電話本体からミッドフレームアセンブリを外すため、バッテリーを片手で押さえながら、ミッドフレームアセンブリを持ち上げます。

    • ミッドフレームを持ち上げる際は、オーディオジャックもしくは充電ポートを引っかけないようにご注意ください。

    • ミッドフレームが部分的に外れたら、残りのデバイス周辺に開口ピックを慎重にスライドして、ミッドフレーム上部を分離します。

    • ヘッドホンジャックにダメージを与えないように、ミッドフレーム上部を最初に外してから、下側に押し出し、ヘッドホンジャックから外します。

    • ミッドフレームの取り外しが上手く進まない場合は、ディスプレイの端に温めたiOpenerをのせて、ディスプレイに留められた接着剤を柔らかくしてください。

    FIRMLY GRASP IT! - Patrick

    Armen Orbelyan - 返信

    Bei diesem Schritt sicher sein, dass SIM Card Fach entfernt ist!

    zikal - 返信

    I found the glue still very sticky here, i had to go around with my picks to free it, its very stuck with a UK version, beware!!

    databeat1 - 返信

    I damaged my screen here a bit, be careful not too slide your pick between the digitizer and the screen.

    Anton -

    i suggest to apply heat on the corners of the front screen to lose the adhesive a lil bit and push from the bottom back of the phone right where the wireless charger is because of the charging port

    get it fixed - 返信

    When grabbing from the bottom, you fun the risk of damaging the charging port and headphone jack. I would suggest starting from the top. This is because the two ports at the bottom slide down into the frame. There is also adhesive that will give you a little resistance.

    Alex Philip - 返信

    Step 18 is not correct, you have to start from the top. You can damage the charge port

    Daniel Yaben - 返信

    On mine the adhesive actually tore away part of the colored film on the back of the screen glass rather than separating from it. I’m guessing applying heat to the screen corners first would help avoid this (I didn’t). https://imgur.com/a/V7vZQ

    Brian Hardie - 返信

    Don’t stick a pick into the screen side of the frame. You will almost certainly start to separate the digitizer and LCD. Plus there is hardly anything to pry against anyway.

    Thomas Hayes - 返信

  15. ミッドフレームアセンブリを持ち上げて残りの電話本体から外します。
    • ミッドフレームアセンブリを持ち上げて残りの電話本体から外します。

    what do the numbers ZF-N2 AS WELL AS (F13) AT THE END OF THE MODEL NUMBER, THEN THERE IS REV 5-1-C W G 15221............... WHAT ALL HAS TO MATCH WHEN REPLACING THE MID FRAME.

    mike gentry - 返信

    Achtung! Bei meiner Reperatur, besonders bei Schritt 14, Auf gar keinen Fall versuchen den Kleber mit einem der Plektren zu lösen. Dort kann man schnell zwischen Displayrahmen und Glas rutschen und so das Display beschädigen!!!

    TheECanyon - 返信

    Once I got the back off I spotted my issue, This was a tough phone. 5 years of service in the marine industry. I spotted corrosion as I was unplugging. so I continued the battery had so much adhesive , you know the rest.

    digitize r! It had drowned at least four times, was still working but had to be on the charger unless it was in safe mode. So good luck !

    There are more symptoms for others to decide . I like this place reminds me as as a kid in the sixties, lol

    Gerald - 返信

  16. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、バッテリーコネクターをマザーボード上のソケットから接続を外します。 スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、バッテリーコネクターをマザーボード上のソケットから接続を外します。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、バッテリーコネクターをマザーボード上のソケットから接続を外します。

    When putting in the new battery should this click back in place? I can’t seem to get it in place.

    terrific_terri8 - 返信

  17. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、BluetoothとWi-Fiアンテナケーブルコネクターをマザーボードのソケットから外します。 スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、BluetoothとWi-Fiアンテナケーブルコネクターをマザーボードのソケットから外します。 スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、BluetoothとWi-Fiアンテナケーブルコネクターをマザーボードのソケットから外します。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、BluetoothとWi-Fiアンテナケーブルコネクターをマザーボードのソケットから外します。

    This portion of the repair caused me problems after phone was closed up. The bluetooth cable on the left of the phone was not placed back into its cable track and was pinched off by screen once frame was placed in metal housing.

    Sebastian Diaz - 返信

  18. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使ってホームボタンコネクターの接続を外します。 スパッジャーの平面側先端を使ってホームボタンコネクターの接続を外します。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使ってホームボタンコネクターの接続を外します。

  19. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使ってマザーボードからディスプレイアセンブリのケーブルの接続を外します。 スパッジャーの平面側先端を使ってマザーボードからディスプレイアセンブリのケーブルの接続を外します。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使ってマザーボードからディスプレイアセンブリのケーブルの接続を外します。

    Does taking the motherboard out wipe the phone?

    Uil'yam - 返信

    No, after disconnecting the battery there’s no way for info to be moved from the memory, until it’s connected to a power source again.

    Wayne Lyell - 返信

  20. イヤホンスピーカーアセンブリのケーブルコネクターをマザーボードから外します。 イヤホンスピーカーアセンブリのケーブルコネクターをマザーボードから外します。
    • イヤホンスピーカーアセンブリのケーブルコネクターをマザーボードから外します。

  21. ディスプレイフレームからカメラ側先端のマザーボードを持ち上げて、取り外します。 マザーボードを持ち上げながら、作業の邪魔にならないように、リボンケーブルを動かす必要があるかもしれません。基板が持ち上げにくい場合は、基板の接続が完全に外れていて、リボンケーブルに巻き込まれていないか確認してください。
    • ディスプレイフレームからカメラ側先端のマザーボードを持ち上げて、取り外します。

    • マザーボードを持ち上げながら、作業の邪魔にならないように、リボンケーブルを動かす必要があるかもしれません。基板が持ち上げにくい場合は、基板の接続が完全に外れていて、リボンケーブルに巻き込まれていないか確認してください。

    • マザーボードを完全に取り外さないでください。マザーボードの下では、リボンケーブルがドーターボードと繋がっています。

  22. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ドーターボードのリボンケーブルコネクターの接続をマザーボード下側ソケットから外します。 スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ドーターボードのリボンケーブルコネクターの接続をマザーボード下側ソケットから外します。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ドーターボードのリボンケーブルコネクターの接続をマザーボード下側ソケットから外します。

  23. ディスプレイのガラスが広範囲にひび割れている場合は、ガラスの上にテープを貼ってガラスが飛び散らないようにします。こうすることで吸盤カップを持ち上げやすくなります。 iOpenerを温めます。
    • ディスプレイのガラスが広範囲にひび割れている場合は、ガラスの上にテープを貼ってガラスが飛び散らないようにします。こうすることで吸盤カップを持ち上げやすくなります。

    • iOpenerを温めます。

    • S6のディスプレイ上にiOpenerを配置します。2分後、iOpenerをスクリーンの反対側に移して載せます。

    • デバイスが十分に温かくなるまでiOpenerを複数回に渡って温めてデバイスに載せる作業が必要になります。加熱しすぎないようiOpenerの使用方法を参照してください。

  24. 開口ピックをフレームとディスプレイの間、バッテリーのケース側端に差し込み、上向きにして持ち上げます。 正しく作業が終わったら、ディスプレイフレームとディスプレイアセンブリの間に隙間ができます。 作業が正しく完了しなかった場合は、ピックがガラスから目で確認できます。ピックを取り出してもう一度作業を進めてください。
    • 開口ピックをフレームとディスプレイの間、バッテリーのケース側端に差し込み、上向きにして持ち上げます。

    • 正しく作業が終わったら、ディスプレイフレームとディスプレイアセンブリの間に隙間ができます。

    • 作業が正しく完了しなかった場合は、ピックがガラスから目で確認できます。ピックを取り出してもう一度作業を進めてください。

    Your warning says “When done incorrectly, the pick will be visible through the LCD. If this happens simply remove the pick and start again” but this is the opposite - you should see the pick through the LCD otherwise you’ll destroy it and it will also need to be replaced.

    B B - 返信

    The warning says “When done incorrectly, the pick will be visible through the LCD. If this happens simply remove the pick and start again” but this is the opposite of what you should do - the pick SHOULD BE VISIBLE through the screen otherwise you’ll destroy the LCD.

    B B - 返信

    not sure about that BB, if the pick is visible, it’s between the digitizer and the lcd… you want these two to come off together or the digitizer will not be functional after being ripped off the LCD.

    hogdoctor - 返信

    I was too vigorous with the pick, and maybe not pointed up (away from the glass) enough, but I got the pick far enough into the digitiser that it peeled the glass off of the digitiser. Ruined it. If you can see the pick through the glass STOP.

    Buck - 返信

    Totally agree with you guys, “hogdoctor” and “Buck”.

    Yes, “you want these two to come off together” and “if you can see the pick through the glass STOP”.

    As you can see in step 23 image #3 that is totally not good.

    What you actually want to see if done right is on step 31.

    Gustavo Zarate - 返信

    in my own opinion, a better/easier method is to actually remove the battery after disconnecting all of the connections from the daughter/logic board, and if you slide a pick inbetween the plastic to where its visible where the battery originally was, you’re doing it correctly. if you can see it through the glass screen as if you were looking at your phone, you’re going between the LCD/Digitizer Assembly, and the Protective Glass Screen Overlay. If you’re removing the LCD/Digitizer/Glass Screen as a Whole, being able to see the pick through the battery compartment is a great, and easy way to know youre okay. This is a Great repair guide, but Repairs Universe on YT did an extremely thorough job on walking me through the replacement procedure and LCD&Digitzer removal.

    Josh Baldwin - 返信

    Hi Josh,

    I agree that having that visual cue is a very handy option. If you are also replacing the battery, this is a great option!

    We opted not to suggest battery removal because of safety reasons. We recommend against re-installing used batteries. Any prying action or bend could have compromised the battery even if you can’t see it, and cause problems in the long term.

    Arthur Shi -

  25. 開口ピックをディスプレイ端から下向きにスライドし、留められた接着剤を切断します。 ディスプレイ下の繊細な容量ボタンに接触しないよう副基板に到達したら切断作業を止めてください。
    • 開口ピックをディスプレイ端から下向きにスライドし、留められた接着剤を切断します。

    • ディスプレイ下の繊細な容量ボタンに接触しないよう副基板に到達したら切断作業を止めてください。

    • 切断が難しい状況になったときは、iOpenerを準備して該当箇所に載せてください。

    • 接着剤の切断作業が終わったら、ディスプレイがフレームに再粘着するのを防ぐためピックを挟んだままにしておきます。

  26. 開口ピックをデバイス下部の端、ヘッドフォンジャックから充電ポートを過ぎたあたりまでスライドします。 開口ピックを6mm以上中へ差し込まないでください。ホームボタンにダメージを与えてしまいます。
    • 開口ピックをデバイス下部の端、ヘッドフォンジャックから充電ポートを過ぎたあたりまでスライドします。

    • 開口ピックを6mm以上中へ差し込まないでください。ホームボタンにダメージを与えてしまいます。

  27. 開口ピックをヘッドホンジャック付近のディスプレイの下側コーナーの下に約1.2cm差し込みます。 ピックを挿入する際、ボタンのリボンケーブルに注意してください。このケーブルは繊細で簡単に裂けてしまいます。ピックの挿入が困難でケーブルが引っ張られる状態であれば、もう一度該当箇所に熱を当ててください。
    • 開口ピックをヘッドホンジャック付近のディスプレイの下側コーナーの下に約1.2cm差し込みます。

    • ピックを挿入する際、ボタンのリボンケーブルに注意してください。このケーブルは繊細で簡単に裂けてしまいます。ピックの挿入が困難でケーブルが引っ張られる状態であれば、もう一度該当箇所に熱を当ててください。

    • ピックをディスプレイ下に差し込み、ボタンがディスプレイに再粘着するのを防ぎます。

    • 容量ボタンもしくはリボンケーブルどちらかを切断してしまった場合、副基板アセンブリを交換できます。これは新しい容量ボタンも含まれています。

  28. 開口ピックを反対側のディスプレイ下部端に約1.2cmほど差し込みます。 ピックを挿入する際、ボタンのリボンケーブルにご注意ください。ケーブルは繊細でとても裂けやすいためです。ピックの挿入が困難な状態やケーブルを引っ張っている場合は、再度熱を当ててください。
    • 開口ピックを反対側のディスプレイ下部端に約1.2cmほど差し込みます。

    • ピックを挿入する際、ボタンのリボンケーブルにご注意ください。ケーブルは繊細でとても裂けやすいためです。ピックの挿入が困難な状態やケーブルを引っ張っている場合は、再度熱を当ててください。

    • ボタンがディスプレイに再装着しないよう、ピックをディスプレイの下に差し込んだままにしてください。

  29. 開口ピックをデバイス本体のバッテリーと反対側に差し込み、下に留められた接着剤を切断します。 接着剤を切断できたら、ピックをディスプレイ側に差し込んだままにします。ディスプレイがフレームに再装着するのを防ぎます。
    • 開口ピックをデバイス本体のバッテリーと反対側に差し込み、下に留められた接着剤を切断します。

    • 接着剤を切断できたら、ピックをディスプレイ側に差し込んだままにします。ディスプレイがフレームに再装着するのを防ぎます。

    I found that I could not free the black sticker digitizer in the middle without damaging the digitizer see fig 39. I don’t know if the UK Samsung is glued better? but its very stuck to the frame, be very very careful to separate the pink and black digitizer, they are very expensive, I wish I dug deeper on the internet first, this step could take 30+ mins to do

    databeat1 - 返信

  30. デバイス本体上部に沿ってバイブレーター側にピックをスライドします。 イヤホンスピーカーグリルに接触しないよう、ピックを少し外側に引き出します。 イヤホンスピーカーグリルに接触しないよう、ピックを少し外側に引き出します。
    • デバイス本体上部に沿ってバイブレーター側にピックをスライドします。

    • イヤホンスピーカーグリルに接触しないよう、ピックを少し外側に引き出します。

  31. 開口ピックを使ってディスプレイからバッテリー側のフレームの間に差し込み、こじ開けます。 ディスプレイとフレームが簡単に外れない場合は、開口ピックを使って残りの接着剤を全て切断してください。もし切断が難しい場合は、該当箇所に熱を当ててください。
    • 開口ピックを使ってディスプレイからバッテリー側のフレームの間に差し込み、こじ開けます。

    • ディスプレイとフレームが簡単に外れない場合は、開口ピックを使って残りの接着剤を全て切断してください。もし切断が難しい場合は、該当箇所に熱を当ててください。

    • ここではディスプレイを完全に取り出さないでください。ディスプレイケーブルがフレームに繋がった状態です。

    This should really be pointed out more than it is. I've gone through a few phones by destroying the IC. Of course if you're doing the repair without instructions it's no ones fault but your own. (guilty) But... This warning should be in BOLD and CAPPED with blinking lights and arrows.

    Felix Robinson - 返信

  32. ディスプレイ右端のフレックスケーブルをフレームのホールから外します。 ディスプレイ右端のフレックスケーブルをフレームのホールから外します。
    • ディスプレイ右端のフレックスケーブルをフレームのホールから外します。

  33. 新しいディスプレイを装着する前に、フレームから古い接着剤を取り除いてください。特に小さなガラスの破片がある場合は気をつけて作業を進めてください。
    • 新しいディスプレイを装着する前に、フレームから古い接着剤を取り除いてください。特に小さなガラスの破片がある場合は気をつけて作業を進めてください。

    • 接着剤とガラスの破片をフレームから全て取り除いた後、90%以上のイソプロピルアルコールとリントフリーの布もしくはコーヒーフィルターで綺麗に拭き取ってください。前後ではなく同じ方向に向けて拭きます。

    • フレームが曲がっている場合やガラスや接着剤の残りが付いている場合、新しいディスプレイが正しく装着できずダメージを与えてしまいます。必要に応じてフレームを交換してください。

    • 新しいスクリーンを取り付ける際に最善の方法は、カスタムカットした両面テープを使うことです。テープをスクリーンの裏側に付けて丁寧にディスプレイケーブルをフレームに通します。スクリーンを定位置に載せてしっかりと押し込みます。

    Great guide. My goal is to disable my left sofy key. I have done this with software fixes but due to a short somewhere and possibly some water damage the button hits it self continuously causing the phone to run slow even though I used an app to tell it to take no action when the button is hit. Looks like step 42 I should disconnect/break the connection.

    If anyone knows an easier way please advise.

    ptrgrnwd - 返信

    Great illustrations and the best tutorial I have seen. Steps are easy and simple to follow.

    Rafael - 返信

    Really good to follow reparing the phone. But i'm afarid of seeing other word like korea

    James - 返信

    What is the copper foil for shown here on the back of the display assembly? I tore it.

    AjL - 返信

    C'etait extrêmement difficile pour ma part.

    It was extremely difficult for me.

    Easy Repair - 返信

    Umm, I bought the ifixit screen repair kit and battery repair kit, but you guys never talk about how, when, and where the white adhesive goes, what step, etc… I also have two blue strips that I”m not sure what they’re for. ???

    John R - 返信

終わりに

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。背面ガラスを再装着する際は、背面ガラス接着剤の交換方法を参照してください。

275 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

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Dante Mazzanti

メンバー登録日: 2015年07月13日

34,457 ポイント

26のガイドは作成済み

26 件のコメント

I replaced my screen now my service doesn't work as well as it did before. What could I have missed.?

Mike Trevino - 返信

First thing you want to do is make sure that all the cables and wiring are in place on your device's logic board. I have seen this several times in my cell phone repair history.

If that step does not fix the issues then you want to change refer to the Samsung Support site about No Signal issues.

shamir wilkes -

Latent or low service bars after you remove the mid-frame from outer frame is due to contacts within the outer frame not making the proper contact with the board. You can test service outside the frame which is one to two bars and very difficult to make calls. Once refit to the frame properly the service is boosted. If you are having service issues, its more than likely the frame. Take apart and check the inner frame and reassemble. Check service before you replace the back screws and glass battery door.

SPLYCERS SALES -

at step 18 make sure all of your motherboard components are free, my headphone jack got stuck on the frame and i nearly ripped the whole thing off

zigge zwiers - 返信

after the replacement of the display, everything works fine, soft keys are working and give back response, lcd display is also working but only the touchscreen doest recognize a tap... what could be the issue? may u help me asap, thanks!

Timo - 返信

Timo, i have the same issue. did you fixed it?

NEFI -

My phone model is G920i. Is it necessary that I should buy the same model or even models like G920A suits with my phone ?

farhannaz - 返信

I have the same model G920i, did you manage to install a different model?

soy_un_ovni -

my screen is flashing white and on and off and when it stops it works fine ... do i need to change the screen

nikolas mussington - 返信

It's too help full sir and doing a not a good it's best work done by u sir thankfully to provide the use full information thx we love u all

sandeepsuryasurya - 返信

Just changed the screen/digitizer on my G920i. The daughter board had two connections that goes under the housing and connects . One of the connections broke and I am going to replace the daughter board before re-assembling the phone. My question ; should new adhesive be used to re-seal the screen assembly to the housing that holds the boards and battery.

Elliot Hutcheson - 返信

Hello, dude. What version of the LCD digitizer did you get? The options in the store do not match for G920i. Cheers.

soy_un_ovni -

I have a SM-G920A, it has two barely visible cracks in the glass over the display. When it is on they are barely visible. when display is off they are more visible and can be felt with a fingernail.

Can this glass be replaced separate from the LCD display or does both the LCD and the glass have to be replaced to repair it? Or could it be replaced with the NuGlas tempered glass screen protector?

jackerbes - 返信

I just followed these steps to replace LCD on my S6, everything seems to be working fine except service is weak and microphone is giving problems. I can hear the other person but he is having difficulty hearing me, my voice is cutting off. What could be the reason for this?

Shahina Chagani - 返信

I rather just take it and get it done by professionals

Marquia Cato - 返信

Hi there,

I have removed the display assembly but the brown foil on the back of the display, the one that has the black rectangle under witch the battery sits, it become loose and I think it severed the connection with the rest of the foil, when I tested the display it doesn’t light up, I don’t know how that brown foil is called and if is possible to replace/fix this.

Thank you.

Tiberius - 返信

i dropped my phone now the screen is black and the phone doesnt work. do i just need to replace the screen?

Scott

scott proell - 返信

Hi, yes if the display flashes it might be a loose connection. I’ve also seen similar issues with the foil mentioned, Z axis tape works for reattaching it. The foil used for getting rid of slugs will work as used it before for making patches on antennas etc, but nice Z axis and copper tape is sold with the chibitronics circuit stickers kit.

Andre - 返信

My phone Is shattered but the screen Is completely black and the back arrow key and the window app opener lights up. But when I switch on my device it still recieves notifications but I cannot see anything so I am not sure what I broke if it is the lcd or if it is the digitizer broken in certain places so I need to know what part is broken so I can buy the right parts and tools to repair my device and my device is the samsung galaxy s6

patrick - 返信

Plzz help as my phone has a problem of touchpad.

My phone works perfectly sometimes and sometimes not

Plz suggest me what i can do and get rid out of touch problem on my samsung galaxy s6

NILESH CHOUDHARY - 返信

hi my s6 fell down and hit the ground on rhe font left edge. the front glass didn’t shatter but some parts of the white color beneath it got separated .and screen isn’t turning on any more. when trying to turn on the phone the notification led keeps twinkting but screen remains off. what is the solution?

salazar333 - 返信

it looks like the lcd panel below the glass broke. you’ve got to replace the screen. before doing that open your phone and make sure the connector isn’t loose or came off since the price of a new LCD is higher than other brands.

Keyvan Khademi Ravandi - 返信

Phone is too hot to touch (Hair dryer on high for 2-3 minutes), yet the rear glass doesn’t come up, as shown in step 7. Any advice how to proceed?

azoic6 - 返信

Note: a good test for broken OLED is to shine a UV light at it.

Broken units typically do not fluoresce corectly and show red “patches” where water has got in.

If you compare with a known good unit the difference is very obvious.

Note: if someone has changed the glass and used third party LOCA it will light up blue not white!

Andre - 返信

Are all Galaxy S6 LCD the same?

elihababundo - 返信

maybe not the best contribution to this, but i used the power of the sun. Its 35 degrees Celsius here so, with constant monitoring it worked fine.

Ps i knew i was replacing back glass, screen and battery. So i was not to worried

Maikel - 返信

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