G Trieste

Also looking for a Touch Screen Glass Digitizer For Inspiron 3455. The price of this part rivals the cost of the whole computer. With a lot of looking, it appears that there may be an after market source for this part, I have seen it on Ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Touch-Screen-Digitizer-Glass-For-NEW-DELL-Inspiron-3455-Without-Frame-/272467414285 I may have to settle for the ~$240.00 price with shipping cost. I'm the one at fault -- had the computer on the floor and it is so top heavy it tipped over and fell forward, yikes. I will have to take a loss on this repair, buying them a new glass front.

I don’t know where this repair guide is going at this point.

It is supposed to be a guide to replace the battery, but goes on to a complete disassembly of the iPad. You don’t have to disassemble the whole iPad to replace the battery.

The battery is inserted underneath the motherboard’s power connection slot. There is a screw that secures it, which is removed during battery replacement. The screw hole is on an elevated bump which the battery contacts have to be slid up and over, requiring the partial lifting of the motherboard at the battery connection — if necessary heat up the bottom of the case there to lift it up.

When secured, the insert contacts sit around the hole. The tricky part is lifting that part high enough so that the battery connector can get over the bump, and the holes line up.

I have found a hack that makes this a lot easier. Simply snip a small slot at the front of the hole of the battery connector. This way it does not have to lift over the bump, but can slide around it on both sides.

I recently successfully replaced a battery on this unit.

I did not see why the warning at the top of this repair guide is necessary, as the battery is connected via several contacts surrounding the screw hole, and the insulating pick they show, or something similarly shaped, should work at isolating the battery. Of course this is only my observation, so take it as you may, I make no assurances of anything.

Removing/replacing the battery is whole ‘nother ballgame however.

The ipad’s contacts are pressed down on the battery contacts, around the hole, that screw hole has an elevated bump which the battery connections have to be slid up and over that bump, requiring the lifting of the ipad connector and possibly part of the motherboard — which is also thermal glued to the case; you may have to heat up the bottom of the case to release that enough to lift.

I am going to post this info also on the battery replacement repair section for this model.

What I did was, initially using a magnetic screwdriver bit, after removing putting them on a magnetic mat, then after removing cables I screwed them back into the original holes to hold them in safe place while completing the repair.

Yes, those screws are some of the tiniest screws I have seen, on par with mechanical watch mechanism screws.

Drop one of them, and you are screwed.

jinwoo KIM’s comment translated:

The motherboard is glued to the bottom plate. This must be lifted (slightly bent) from the battery contacts. If you look closely at the photos, you will also see the left and right boards of the terminal.

Addendum, I have a temperature controlled heat gun, and set it to 180F for this.

I have found that using these plastic picks, spudgers and edge tools are ineffective as tools for inserting or creating a gap and glue separation action.

They are just too soft and too thick for this, causing cracks and not able to reach underneath without causing stresses.

After heating the adhesive with a heat gun (and using cardboard to shield the lcd screen) I have been using a metal round headed scalpel to insert between the glass and bezel, and to very carefully use as an adhesive separation tool at a very oblique angle so as to miss any sensitive cables or components.

Also, instead of this iTool heating pad and a microwave, they should create an electrically heated shaped pad, this would avoid the constant cooling and reheating and maintain the right temperature.

Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

Depending on what adhesive you are removing, I find that using something like Goo Gone Goop adhesive remover is very helpful.

If it is the original foam based adhesive, then that can usually be taken off without the adhesive remover, but with these after market glue strips, the adhesive remover is best.

It was clear enough to follow, don't know why it got the incorrect text caveat.

I gotta get one of those spudger sets.

Also it did not say where to get the actual replacement speaker.