はじめに
このガイドを参照して、Nintendo Switch Liteの消耗したバッテリーを交換しましょう。
Switch LiteはJISネジを使用していますが、急なときはプラスドライバーでも対応できます。iFixitのプラスビットはJIS規格のネジと相互互換性があるように設計されているので、ネジを剥がさないように十分注意してください。
デバイスを再組み立てする前に、バッテリーの残量を25%以下まで放電してください。バッテリーが膨張している場合は、デバイスを温めないでください。膨張したバッテリーは大変危険です。保護メガネを装着して、特別に注意しながら作業を進めてください。作業に自信がない場合は、修理の専門家にご相談ください。
ご注意:この修理ガイドでは、放熱グリスの付いたヒートシンクがあるシールドプレートを取り出します。シールドプレートを再度取り付ける前に、放熱グリスを除去して、新しく塗布してください。
必要な工具と部品
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この手順で使用する道具：Magnetic Project Mat$19.95
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Y00ドライバーを使って、バックパネルを固定している6.3mmネジを4本外します。
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プラスドライバーもしくはiFixit PH000ドライバー で、バックパネルを固定している次のネジを外します。
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デバイス上部の長さ3.6mmネジー2本
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デバイス下部の長さ3.6mmネジー2本
I accidentally stripped the back screw and now I can't open it. I removed all the other screws. What should I do?
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デバイス下部の左側スピーカーグリルの内側に、開口ツールを差し込みます。
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開口ツールをひねって、バックパネルを固定しているクリップを外します。
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プラスドライバーもしくは iFixit PH 000ドライバーを使って、次のネジを4本外します。
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長さ3.1 mmネジー3本
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長さ4.5 mmネジー1本
There are four screws instead of three mentioned
With how easy it seems to be to do serious damage with the next few steps, I figured I'd say that realistically you can skip steps 9-13 when doing this repair. While they provide a bit of extra security by disconnecting the battery, the left stick is completely accessible and replaceable without touching the heat shield or anything underneath (And steps 17 and 18 disconnect power from the daughter board regardless).
i stripped a &&^&^$^ screw
Well I actually removed the screw right next to the 4.5 screw. I did not realize it till my son showed me why the plate wouldn't release. Ha ha, it's funny now but yeah not a big deal. I could have bent it badly assuming I took all screws out though. For anyone reading this before going in. 👍
Toastninja - 返信
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スパッジャーもしくは指で、デバイスからシールドプレートを持ち上げて外します。
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シールドプレートを取り出します。
What type of Thermal Paste would you guys recommend? I clicked on the picture but nothing.
Personnaly i use some Mx-6 from Artic, really good quality/price, never have to complain.
Nothing -
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開口ツールもしくは爪先で、マザーボードの相互接続ケーブルのZIFコネクタに付いている小さなヒンジ状の固定フラップを跳ね上げます。
The clip broke off when trying to remove this cable. Audio only works through headphones and the display now won’t turn on after the clip broke. Does anyone know where I could get a clip or how I could fix it without it?
Mi è successa la stessa cosa è non so come ripararla! Chissà se c’è un modo!
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この手順で使用する道具：Tweezers$4.99
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ピンセットでマザーボード上のコネクタから、相互接続ケーブルをスライドして外します。
I turned the unit off beforehand, I used tweezers just like the instructions said (ifixit branded) , my device sparked and now it won’t turn back on
The flap came off is it important or is there a way t fix it?
We're you able to get it working without the white flap? My screen is not working after putting it back together and i noticed this white flap was falling off
Did you get it working without the white flap? Everything on the switch works fine except for audio going through headphones and the display not turning on.
do not use metal sharp pointed tweezers! you will rip your ribbon cable. Use the inside of a Bic type pen or something else dull and plastic to pull the cable away by putting the pen part where the first bend is.
Maybe tape the Tweezers or smear some hot glue on them to insulate them to save you time and money.
Maybe put all the Warnings at the start of the guide as well. We fix it geeks tend to get excited when fixing things 😁
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スパッジャーの先端を使って、マザーボード上のソケットからバッテリーコネクタをこじ開けて、接続を外します。
Caution the connector may not be properly soldered onto the motherboard. For me it snapped off the pins and now have to find a place to get that fixed if even possible. may have bricked it.
Yup, broke the connector right off the motherboard. Thanks, ifixit -_-
I backed out when I reached this point. I couldn't risk damaging it. Do u just need to pull it up? Did you mean that it might have been soldered shut below?
Jannalyzer - 返信
You should just need to pull straight up, but make sure you’re pulling on the wires or the gray plug—do not pull on the black socket or it can snap off of the motherboard.
With how easy it seems to be to do serious damage at this point, I figured I'd say that realistically you can skip steps 9-13 when doing this repair. While they provide a bit of extra security by disconnecting the battery, the left stick is completely accessible and replaceable without touching the heat shield or anything underneath (And steps 17 and 18 disconnect power from the daughter board regardless).
just broke my connector... ifixit PLEASE put a warning on how fragile the solder on this connector is.
Note for this step, you do not need to apply a lot of force. I used two tools here: small screwdriver to hold down the black base, and one side of fine-tipped tweezers to get under all 3 wires. Gently, push down on the tweezers to push the wires upwards, which should force the gray connector up and off the base. It did not take a lot of force. Take your time and it will be fine. Again, like others have said, do NOT pull or pry up the black base.
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この手順で使用する道具：iFixit Adhesive Remover$19.99
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バッテリー上部端に沿って留められた接着剤を柔らかくするために、接着剤リムーバーもしくは高濃度 (90%以上)のイソプロピルアルコールを、数滴注入します。
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開口ピックをバッテリーとバッテリー壁の間の隙間に差し込みます。
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開口ピックをバッテリーの底に向けて慎重に押し込みます。端に沿ってピックをスライドして、接着剤を切り込んでいきます。
It is not mentioned in any of the steps, but in this picture you can see that the strip that has the Volume & Power buttons is removed. I ended up tearing mine while trying to pry the battery out, so I recommend using the opening tool to release the clamp on it and to remove the piece until reassembly.
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開口ピックをその場所に残して、さらに接着剤リムーバーもしくはイソプロピルアルコールをバッテリー壁内側に注入してください。
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デバイスの上部端を上向きに傾けて、イソプロピルアルコールが接着剤を弱めるまで1-2分間待機します。
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続けて開口ピックをバッテリー上部端に沿ってスライドさせながら、さらに接着剤を切り込んでいきます。
Don't use isopropyl alcohol for this step! Too much will leak behind the battery well and damage the LCD screen, and 1-2 drops is NOT enough to loosen the adhesive here. Highly recommend getting specific adhesive remover, or using a hair dryer (cool to warm setting, no more than 60*F) to loosen the adhesive. Learn from my mistake!
Just want to second Ashley’s comment here. I spent a lot of time and elbow grease prying that pick in there with IPA to no avail. I’m glad I saw their comment because with the hair dryer on medium I got the thing off in 5 minutes. Fortunately, I didn’t have the same leaking into the screen experience with the many more than a couple drops of alcohol I put behind the battery.
I read the comments too late cus I just &&^&@@ up my screen with alcohol drops.
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この手順で使用する道具：Plastic Cards$2.99
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プラスチックカードを差し込める十分なスペースができたら、バッテリー下に差し込んで慎重にこじ開けます。
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バッテリーを取り出します。
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この手順で使用する道具：Microfiber Cleaning Cloths$3.99
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接着剤リムーバーもしくはイソプロピルアルコールと マイクロファイバークロスでバッテリー内の接着剤を綺麗に拭き取ります。新しいバッテリーを装着する前の準備となります。
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新しいバッテリーにプレインストールされた接着剤がついていない場合は、このガイドを参照して、バッテリー底側に接着剤を装着します。
Now where do I get the new battery that actually fits?
It may be better to go through the screen replacement guide and remove the midframe assembly before trying to remove the battery. The amount of alcohol or acetone you will need to remove the battery will risk the screen and the plastic underneath. It's definitely more work, but the difficulty is the same if you're doing the battery replacement, just takes longer and needs more thermal paste.
I just want to add that removing this adhesive was a massive pain and it took me both nearly half a bottle of iFixit adhesive remover plus the hair drier trick (medium heat, about 5 min) to finally get it out. But it did finally come out.
Ripping the battery out is awful. Don't even risk it. You have to apply so much force just to get it to move half a mm. I used iso and the hairdryer. Finally got it out but punctured the old one while giving the last few heaves with a screwdriver. Do not recommend! . It got hot and started smoking. When I got the new battery in and hooked everything back up, my screen was dead. Top buttons also dead. It turns on but only by holding the home button. Must have damaged the ribbon cable during my fight with the battery. Just take it to a shop.
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このデバイスを再組み立てするには、インストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
このガイドを完成後、パフォーマンスの最適化のために、新しくインストールしたバッテリーを キャリブレーションしてください。
e-wasteを処理する場合は、認可済みリサイクルセンターR2を通じて廃棄してください。
修理が上手く進みませんか？ベーシックなトラブルシューティングのページを参照するか、Nintendo Switch Liteのアンサーコミュニティに尋ねてみましょう。
このデバイスを再組み立てするには、インストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
このガイドを完成後、パフォーマンスの最適化のために、新しくインストールしたバッテリーを キャリブレーションしてください。
e-wasteを処理する場合は、認可済みリサイクルセンターR2を通じて廃棄してください。
修理が上手く進みませんか？ベーシックなトラブルシューティングのページを参照するか、Nintendo Switch Liteのアンサーコミュニティに尋ねてみましょう。
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27 件のコメント
Hello!
I am preparing to repair my daughters nintendo switch light. It has stopped charging out of no where. I have all the tools, I just can't find the battery anywhere. Where would you recommend buying it from?
If you are still looking Ifixit sells one themselves Nintendo Switch Lite Battery
Thanks for the guide. Battery replacement kits are now available on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Nintendo-HDH-001-... (they weren’t in November! I was also looking for this during that time)
Unfortunately, the battery was much harder to remove than I expected. I did use a lot of isopropyl alcohol, but the adhesive they use really was giving me a lot of trouble. I should’ve wisened up and googled other adhesive removal methods or tried a new approach other than prying with the spudgers.
Well, now the LCD now has what looks like pressure damage in the bottom left where I’d imagine a lot of the prying pressure went. It is much more noticeable when the screen goes all-white, and not too bad with darker colors.
I don’t blame iFixit for my mistake of course, and it is really disappointing that Nintendo used the amount of adhesive that they did. But I hope this comment can serve as a warning to others attempting this repair to be more gentle even if it’s refusing to come off.
Yikes! Sorry to hear this. How did you pry with the spudger exactly? If you kept it around the top edge of the battery well then I would assume it wouldn’t damage the screen, but if you inserted the end of the spudger deeper in the battery well and used that point as the fulcrum, then I could see that putting a lot of pressure on the back of the LCD.
@craiglloyd I did an embarrassing amount of spudger prying pretty much everywhere along the top/bottom of the battery, I actually broke a few spudger tips in the process so that might reveal something about my approach…
But, I’m starting to think it may not be LCD damage after all, but rather some isopropyl alcohol caught behind the screen– During my prying, the Switch case was getting pretty heavily warped, so maybe some of the alcohol (that I definitely used in excess) slipped in and got sandwiched under the screen? I started to notice this since the blotches seem like they’ve moved over time. Here’s an image of the screen now https://imgur.com/DjYmFnJ (and the dark gray blotch along the leftside isn’t a shadow, white spots in bottom left I thought were pressure damage)
It’s still very usable / not noticeable on black colors and thanks again for the guide! I can give the screen more time to see if it improves at all, or maybe try going back in and trying to see it is trapped alcohol that can be released
vmgm -
Have the marks faded over time? We have had the ame issue and believe it is the isopropyl alcohol :/ we didn't use loads but found there was a gap at the bottom of where the battery is held which clearly let some of the alcohol through. I'm really hoping it will evaporate over time but not sure :/
Sadly no, the marks are still there, and haven’t been motivated to try to fix yet. I’ve seen some videos online where people can coerce trapped isopropyl alcohol out without having to take a screen apart, but have been hesitant to try out some of the methods.
vmgm -
Thanks for the detailed procedure. I followed the guide closely except for the battery removal procedure. The battery module is wrapped in foil backed plastic. This is easy to slice around the battery edges with an exacto knife. Once it is free, I could lever the battery module out of the bay. Then, I was able to trim the foil outer wrap into strips with the knife and peel it away in pieces. Now I am ready to install my new battery as soon as it arrives.
Same problem here with the Isoproponol which has left my sons screen really discoloured.
Can I suggest you update this tear down as I have always relied on Ifixit for both tool kits and guides and it is a shame that this has left my sons switch damaged. I do expect a bit better of a company that sells parts and tools to do this stuff.
Thanks however for the brilliant Ifixit tool kits.
after changing the battery I have gotten the 2101-0001 error code, how do i fix this?
What kind of thermal paste are we to use?
réparation super facile, juste un peu de patience avec l'alcool isopropylique, mais sinon, rien de plus simple à remplacer :D
As other people have said, the alcohol got into my unit’s display. I was able to get rid of it by using a hair dryer until the screen got really hot. I then used a suction cup on the screen to push and pull. You can see the “bubbles” start to go away. You may need to place it in several areas of the display. It is a bit scary as you need a good amount of force, but eventually it worked itself out. The display now looks perfect. Note that I left the glass screen protector on while I did this.
Same problem here too. Isopropanol also discolored my screen. Along with some mild pulling I assume that's unfixable? (price for a new/refurbished one makes it not worth... for me anyway) The dark clouds have lessened over a few days, but the lighter area that might have has the additional pulling seems to be the same.
Discard and it felt and it wasn't my fault since the Nintendo switch. Just fell and it wasn't my fault.
The dark splotches on the screen, that result from all the isopropyl alcohol needed to dissolve the unreasonable amount of glue under the battery, are not worth the caution. Especially, considering that to replace the screen costs three times what the battery does. I disassembled the backlight and air dried the different layers; I had 5 out. But that did not help! They were already stained by the alcohol. I tried using Zeiss lens cleaner, but that did not help much. The splotches are not as dark now, but they are still there. I think there is still more alcohol trapped between other layers.
My recommendation is to fully discharge the battery, put on eye protection, and use a "jimmy" and plastic cards to remove the battery. By the looks of it, I think that is certainly what iFixit did in their teardown article.
One trick I found was to stack picks under the battery to help push the battery out and away from the housing. Once i ran out of picks, i was able to put the jimmy between two of the picks and pop the battery the rest of the way out.
That is actually a good idea - reducing friction and increasing pressure. When I did it, I only used a single card, which ended up deformed by the time the glue separated!
There should be a much bigger, URGENT warning in the guide about the dangers of using alcohol for this. My screen is trashed now because I'm a doofus and i didn't read the comments until after following the guide. My new battery is great though!! Unfortunately now I have to replace my screen. And if I'm replacing the screen, I might as well add a custom shell. A repair that should have been cheap and easy is now leading me into a spiral of addiction to modding and customization.
Agreed! I've added the following warning to the relevant step, but it still needs verification from moderators:
Using more than a few drops of isopropyl alcohol will lead to alcohol leaking into the screen and staining the display, leading to splotches and requiring a more difficult and expensive screen replacement.
wiggles -
hi, I have ordered all the parts from ifixit and followed the precedence. however once closed the switch does not turn on. only when plugged into the charger does the nintendo lettering and the image of the battery being charged appear. once removed from the charger it remains without any signs of life. do you have any advice?
My Nintendo Switch Lite Battery Is Dropping Faster So I’m Gonna Need A New Battery For My Nintendo Switch Lite
When I did this repair, I didn't have that bottle that they showed in the review, but from what other people are saying in the comments, maybe it's a good thing I didn't.
What I did was get a bowl and put some isopropyl alcohol in it, and then just dip the plastic card or pick in it (if you don't have the plastic cards, an old credit card or something would probably work), and then work that in between every side of the battery, while tilting the switch to try and get the drips off the card into the battery.
Then when I had to pry, I started with one plastic card, then I layered two on top of each other to get a bit more force, and just slowly but surely pried it out, it took quite a long time.
As far as I can tell, this method worked quite well, the new battery works, and there's no damage to the screen at all.
Another tip I have for this repair is, use a mat with numbered screws, and print out the screw diagrams this site has and write the screw number on them.
Hope that helps!
Removing the original battery is the hardest part. What worked for me easily and without isopropyl alcohol was using a half of a plastic card which is narrow and you have room to move it around and remove the glue. Also I started prying from the bottom of the battery as it has much more space than from the top.
Just keep pushing the card in all directions and in a few minute you will get more than 70% of the glue removed, then place a picker to keep the battery up, l in a way that the glue don't stick again. The last 30% should require a few seconds.
This process didn't require me much pressure/force, so go slow and easy.
Good luck
I replaced the battery and all went well, functions beautifully, but when I go to put the backplate back on the screen goes dark. It still functions- makes noise and plays games with button input, but as long as the plastic backplate is on the screen goes black. Anyone have any ideas why??
All my screws got stripped any ideas on how to remove?
Almost A Mammal - 返信
A Y0 screwdriver seemed to work better for me.
Tommy Morrill - 返信
What type of screw driver do I use to un screw the screws and which way
Luca Capito - 返信
Y 0.6 was all I had but it seemed to fit perfectly
Trevor - 返信
Like really snug? I've gotten away with using Drivers either bigger or smaller but I hate doing it. But if 0.6 is the exact size I need, then I'll get that. I don't wanna strip my client's Switch Lite's screws.
Vincent Valodze -