はじめに

放熱グリスの塗布はプロセッサーを冷却するために欠かせません。修理作業でヒートシンクあるいはCPUを取り出した後、この手順を参照して放熱グリスを塗布してください。CPUに特化したより高度な方法についてはArctic Silverのページをご覧ください。

application methods

放熱グリスはプロセッサーからヒートシンクへ熱を伝える役割をしています。放熱グリスを塗付しないでコンピューターを再組み立てすると、プロセッサーがオーバーヒートしてしまい、永久的なダメージにつながります。
  • 放熱グリスはプロセッサーからヒートシンクへ熱を伝える役割をしています。放熱グリスを塗付しないでコンピューターを再組み立てすると、プロセッサーがオーバーヒートしてしまい、永久的なダメージにつながります。

  • 放熱グリスを塗布する前に、古い放熱グリスをプロセッサーとヒートシンクから取利除いてください。

the best way to clean a CPU or a GPU is to use a spudger and ISOPROPYL its an alcohol that dries fast

USE WITH CAREFULLY DO NOT DRINK OR USE IT FOR ANY OTHER PURPOSE.

YOU CAN USE ISOPROPYL TO CLEAN WOUNDS OR CPU'S OR GPU'S

ISOPROPYL

What is isopropyl

Ronald - 返信

スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ヒートシンクのカッパーコアから凝固した放熱グリスを出来るだけ取り除いてください。 スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ヒートシンクのカッパーコアから凝固した放熱グリスを出来るだけ取り除いてください。
  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ヒートシンクのカッパーコアから凝固した放熱グリスを出来るだけ取り除いてください。

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凝固した放熱グリスを取り除いた後でも、コッパーコア上に残余が残っています。
  • 凝固した放熱グリスを取り除いた後でも、コッパーコア上に残余が残っています。

コメントを追加する

コヒーフィルターかリントフリーの布に使って、ArctiCleanサーマル素材のリムーバーを一滴落として、ヒートシンク上のサーマルコンタクト表面に塗付してください。 表面上が綺麗になったら、 ArctiClean サーマル素材のリムーバーを付けた新しいコーヒーフィルターか布を使って、表面上の油脂などを完全に拭き取ります。
  • コヒーフィルターかリントフリーの布に使って、ArctiCleanサーマル素材のリムーバーを一滴落として、ヒートシンク上のサーマルコンタクト表面に塗付してください。

  • 表面上が綺麗になったら、 ArctiClean サーマル素材のリムーバーを付けた新しいコーヒーフィルターか布を使って、表面上の油脂などを完全に拭き取ります。

  • チップやヒートシンクを触らないでください。埃やゴミが付着するのを防ぎます。指紋でもチップ上に熱を伝導する障害となることがあります。

  • ヒートシンクを完全に乾かします!

Any 70% or up Isopropyl alcohol will do the trick in removing the paste.

I use those cotton ear sticks to clean the paste off. You can find this bottle in pretty much any dollar or drug/pharmacy store.

I don't use ArctiClean Thermal Material Remover because is way too expensive and is hard to get it shipped (simply put: too much hassle).

Scorps - 返信

too expensive? I got mine for less than 5 USD. On a further note, I saw a video on youtube and a chap who use to use Alcohol switch to ArctiClean Thermal Material Remover and now swears by it, he said it was much more effective at dissolving the old thermal paste and in fact he demonstrated the removal process, in a few seconds he wiped it all off clean. Worth the money. It is NOT expensive though, not at all.

nirv -

If you are going to use Isopropyl Alcohol, 70% is not enough. Go for the 90% stuff. The lesser grades have too much water in them and they will leave behind residue after drying that inhibits thermal transfer.

Robert Dunham -

Alcohol is fine, I use it and it not only does a better job but is far less toxic. That stuff causes all kinds of cellular damage to you.

South30 - 返信

プラスチック製スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、プロセッサー表面の凝固した放熱グリスを完全に取り除きます。
  • プラスチック製スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、プロセッサー表面の凝固した放熱グリスを完全に取り除きます。

  • この手順ではメタル製のスパッジャーを使用しないでください。プロセッサー表面上のコンポーネントを壊さないように、サーマル部分がコンポーネント上で外れないようにご注意ください。(導電ペーストが問題の原因となることもあります)

you can also use a junk credit card or similar, or a plastic spoon

Gaspard Leon - 返信

Obsolete business cards are good too.

Robert Calhoun - 返信

I use a small flat screw driver to move the paste around. I use a thermal paste that is inside a tube (same as a tooth paste one) and with the edge of the screw driver's flat end I take a small amount and place it in the middle of the CPU. Then with the the same flat screw driver I move the paste around as if I would mix it on a pancake...and ensure I don't cross the square...sort of creating a circle and have enough thickness for it to communicate.

I use this screw driver only for thermal paste. Then at the end I clean it with a paper towel. Nobody ever got messy from it: neither I nor my employees

Scorps - 返信

再度、コーヒーフィルターやリントフリーの布を使って、ArctiCleanサーマル素材リムーバーを1滴垂らして、プロセッサー表面上の放熱グリスを完全に取り除きます。 ArctiCleanサーマル洗浄剤を一滴垂らした新しいコーヒーフィルターや布を使って、表面上に付着した油脂やゴミを取り除きます。
  • 再度、コーヒーフィルターやリントフリーの布を使って、ArctiCleanサーマル素材リムーバーを1滴垂らして、プロセッサー表面上の放熱グリスを完全に取り除きます。

  • ArctiCleanサーマル洗浄剤を一滴垂らした新しいコーヒーフィルターや布を使って、表面上に付着した油脂やゴミを取り除きます。

  • プロセッサーが乾くのを待ちます!

Any 70% or up Isopropyl alcohol will do the trick in removing the paste.

I use those cotton ear sticks to clean the paste off. You can find this bottle in pretty much any dollar or drug/pharmacy store.

I don't use ArctiClean Thermal Material Remover because is way too expensive and is hard to get it shipped (simply put: too much hassle).

Scorps - 返信

新しく放熱グリスを塗布するには、特定のプロセッサータイプ別に推奨される塗布方法に従ってくださいー垂直方向か、水平方向に塗布か、中央に点を描くように塗るのか、表面に塗るのかという違いです。
  • 新しく放熱グリスを塗布するには、特定のプロセッサータイプ別に推奨される塗布方法に従ってくださいー垂直方向か、水平方向に塗布か、中央に点を描くように塗るのか、表面に塗るのかという違いです。

  • 放熱グリスを塗布する場合、以下の方法で行ってください。

    • サンドイッチサンドイッチ用のビニールバッグやサランラップなどで人差し指の先端を巻きます。

    • ほんの僅かな量の放熱グリスをプロセッサーコアの上に塗布します。

    • プロセッサーコア全体に付けられた放熱グリスを丁寧に指で伸ばします。

  • もし、アクシデントでプロセッサー上のグリーン色部分に放熱グリスが付いてしまった場合、特に問題とはなりません。

  • これでプロセッサーは新しいヒートシンク再装着の準備ができました。

  • Arctic Silver は”着色している”ヒートシンクについて、サーマル混合物の間断を減らすため放熱グリスをヒートシンクに塗布するインストラクションを公開していますが、必ずしもヒートシンクに放熱グリスを塗布する必要はありません。

Some people apply a little dab in the center, and then install the heat sink. It spreads it evenly unlike a finger, and is much cleaner. I use this method on cpus with a heat spreader, and ones with the bare die. You can also apply a dab, and use a razor blade to spread it evenly too. The finger method tends to leave air bubbles, and doesn't spread evenly. I use Arctic Silver 5, but sometimes have to spread it with a blade as it is so thick. I hear that Arctic Cooling MX-3 is suppose to be better. I hate that AS5 can be electrically conductive. It makes me nervous that i will short something out. I hate AS5 200 hour curing time. MX-3 is claimed to not need any curing time, and not electrically conductive, So if you apply the amount that Apple did with the 2006 MacBooks, you will still have a working computer. If apple applied AS5, like they applied thermal paste in 2006, I bet the laptop would be DOA.

Just my little thoughts on thermal compound.

Nicholas Ouimet - 返信

the dab in the center is know as a pea. See http://www.arcticsilver.com/intel_applic... for recommendations on applying the paste to Intel chips, either a pea or a line depending on CPU.

nirv -

Swapping out the heatsink on my 15" MBP seemed to go fine. The instructions were clear and easy to follow. My computer had been shutting down immediately and was unusable. I did some research and it sounded like the heatsink was the problem. After reassembling the computer, when I started it up, there was a little puff of smoke from the back left of the keyboard... and... no screen backlight came on.

The repair solved the problem of my computer constantly shutting down, but now I can only see my screen if I shine a bright light on it.

Does anyone know what could have happened? If the thermal compound was touching some little wire or something, could it have caused a short?

jonahwy - 返信

Quote from jonahwy:

Swapping out the heatsink on my 15" MBP seemed to go fine. The instructions were clear and easy to follow. My computer had been shutting down immediately and was unusable. I did some research and it sounded like the heatsink was the problem. After reassembling the computer, when I started it up, there was a little puff of smoke from the back left of the keyboard... and... no screen backlight came on.

The repair solved the problem of my computer constantly shutting down, but now I can only see my screen if I shine a bright light on it.

Does anyone know what could have happened? If the thermal compound was touching some little wire or something, could it have caused a short?

Did you use Arctic Silver? It's possible something shorted, but I'm leaning more toward a lose display cable. Try re-seating the cable.

Nicholas Ouimet - 返信

If it's a laptop, it IS a smear spread, not a pea or line. The link http://www.arcticsilver.com/pdf/appmeth/... says so.

Probably because the laptop pipe mounting pressure is not very high and won't spread it as much.

Example, the 15" A1226 Macbook Pro has only 5 screws and 3 chips it touches, and they aren't very close to the cores.

beachfitrob - 返信

I've replaced the paste on many chips over the years. In my experience, the wiping method tends to leave air pockets unless you're extremely careful and spread the compound very smoothly. It's a lot easier, and more effective imho, to use the pea or line method on ANY chip. The pressure of a laptop heat sync is quite sufficient to spread the compound evenly.

I do recommend using only compounds which are 100% non-conductive. I also recommend buying a compound with the longest lifespan, unless you are sure you want to go through this procedure every couple of years.

MoldyOldyComputerGuy -

I happen to agree with moldyoldy - use a non-conductive grease. The likelihood of the "heat sink" ( its actually a heat pipe) failing is pretty darn low. The crap heatsink compound is more likely the problem. Recently I dropped my early 2013 MBP retina. Long story. Anyway - for the next few days- machine acted odd - reported USB devices pulling too much current- then it started crashing, and finally started locking up- wouldn't boot until it cooled.I was concerned about having damaged the heat pipe, so pulled it off. The compound was dry and crumbly. Odds are the drop cracked this dry gunk and affected the heat transfer. So I cleaned off the old gunk ( denatured ethanol ) and reassembled using old school white heatsink grease. Grease. As in oily as !&&*, like it has been for the 45 years I've used the stuff. Currently, machine idles at about 110F, and never gets above 215F with all eight hyper threads at full bore. The idle temp is 20F lower than it was new. And will never dry out.

baumann - 返信

With all due respect, I am very skeptical about spreading the thermal paste with your finger, there are a lot of tutorial videos out there on Youtube that provide proof about all the bubble you are going to leave behind that will mess up your heat exchange efficiency

AlFX - 返信

This aspect is a bit over-rated as to detail. The amount of thermal paste the Apple factories applies to the processor surfaces is huge, spilling onto the green surfaces of the processors. This can be seen once one removes the heat sink component that sits on the processors. Gobs and gobs of thermal paste abounds everywhere.

dcelander - 返信

まとめ

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

759 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:

100%

Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています! 貢献してみませんか?
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Miroslav Djuric

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251のガイドは作成済み

For heat sinks with a spring on the screws: Wonder why there are springs on the heat sink screws? Do not over tighten them, the springs are there to help you apply the correct amount of pressure on to the CPU and GPU. If you tighten them all the way, it may not be the correct pressure! Leave maybe 1 mm of space, just before the screw stops turning. iFixit forgot to mention this important part, and also in the heat paste guide!!

m3kw - 返信

This is completely untrue. The holes bored in the heat sinks are in fact a larger diameter than both the threads and the shoulder of the heat sink screws. The screws should be fully tightened (as they were from the factory) to maintain correct pressure against the processors.

Andrew Bookholt -

He is talking about spring between the end of the screw. You could break those if you tighten them. So he is right...from the factory or not...it is us the humans that will tighten them not the factory anymore.

So he wanted to say: when you tighten screws with springs be careful not to break the springs due tou pressure between the aluminum heat sink and the screw

Scorps -

I have two green lights on my xbox slim ... Should I do all of this to get rid of them? I'm not sure if they are supposed to be green. I bought my wii and remotes from a refurbishing place. I don't have the red ring of death, but I think it is from over heating.

OMG Hi -

Thank you so much for this! Have been struggling for months with CPU diode sensor reporting 262F/128C and CPU dropping to 0.8 Ghz due to Speedstep. Loosened the screws a little and the sensor is back to normal. I cannot thank you enough for this!

keet grey -

It didn't help my crashing MBP, NVidia bug.

gustmoge - 返信

Try reheating / reballing the gpu soldering. It worked for me more than 3 times.

mark -

Actually, Tom's Hardware's guide said not to spread the paste out, but to have a solid line of paste vertically across the longest part of the metal cap and let the heat sink spread it out as it gets tightened. This method supposedly reduces the risk of air bubbles. My only curiousity is with processors that have little resistors or some such things placed around the metal heat cap, should those be pasted as well or not? Dell's processor came completely covered with paste, onto the chips as well, but I'm wondering if I should re-apply to the chips or just to the cap.

Frank - 返信

Note: This old thread still deserves a reminder: Those are capacitors and the type of paste used is CRITICAL. If it is non conductive (white, pink or any non metallic color) it's Ok if it gets on the capacitors. If the recommended paste is Arctic SILVER or any metal filled paste, do NOT let it get on the capacitors. Your best bet is to apply a slim line of paste along the longest length of the chip and use a credit card as a squeegee to spread the paste into a smooth film. Then apply a small drop to the center (optional). Wetting the surface helps.

airyu -

Coollllllllllllllllll

engineer taha - 返信

I use Noctua NT-H1 Premium Grade Thermal Compound on everything...It's non-conductive and does not harden.

LS Computer Systems - 返信

http://www.arcticsilver.com/intel_applic...

According to this list different Intel chips should commit to different applications of thermal paste. Hope this helps.

nirv - 返信

Readers to this post may also want to consider this thermal paste. Very highly rated. It's non conductive so even if it spreads a little more than it should it won't fry your equipment http://www.arctic.ac/eu_en/products/cool...

nirv - 返信

Is it okay if I clean the remain thermal paste on processor chip with wet tissue that use for baby,

or alcohol swab?

Muhammad Inayah - 返信

Hello to everyone .

They gave me that link due to a recent upgrade i doing to my iMAC late 2013 with Nvidia Gpu 4gb.

I changing processor for a better one. The post is very good as all ifixit posts. For thermal paste i dont think Apple used right one because i have this machine for 2 months maybe 2500 hours at plug and when i opened it the past was already as 20 years old. Also around Nvidia chip there are big sighs of serious overheating means that cooler not doing its job and think most the paste.

For paste can make contacts there is a simple trick to test it before apply.

With Ohm meter spread some amount somewhere and measure the resistance.

The springs at the GPU chipset must screwed tight as it is from factory becareful to not twist them when righting the screws.

The job is not for normal people It needs some skills.Can easily something go wrong.

Also take care big attention to the connectors everywhere...

Thank you very much i hope i gave a little help as i took me too ..

Hell7 - 返信

You deserve a hundred billion trillion stars. You figured out how to fix the red ring of death at home.

Frank Pavia - 返信

re heating does not work rebaling wont work neather some components will because of the heat but be asured that it is a temp fix.

get another unit or try to replace the chip and drive. most likley they are "married"and cant be used because of the key.

google geek wish or licht in the box for broken ribbon calbe laso for sale on ebay. but wish or licht in the box are cheaper.

oleeverink - 返信

That's exactly what I was searching for.

Ivette Carlier - 返信

It’s very easy task applying Thermal paste on your CPU. I am also one who was facing such questions earlier but Google helped me into this as found few guides and videos. I found this guide which is quite useful.

stacy johnna - 返信

good idea, i like, it can help me.

thank you very much

i like your article

i am arc airplane hobby

Tyson Luo - 返信

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