はじめに
これらのインストラクションを参照して、接着剤で固定されたバッテリーを、接着リムーバー付きiFixitキット使って交換します。接着剤リムーバーを使用すると、古いバッテリーを固定している接着剤が柔らかくなり、外しやすくなります。
iFixitの接着剤リムーバーは可燃性です。 この作業は換気の良い場所で行ってください。 また作業中は、喫煙を控え、火気のある所で作業しないでください。
ダメージを軽減するために、この作業を始める前に、MacBookの電源を入れて、バッテリーを放電してください。充電されたリチウムイオンバッテリー は引火の原因となったり、アクシデントで穴を開けてしまうと爆発の恐れがあります。バッテリーが膨張している場合は、 適切な方法で処理してください。
ご注意: 溶剤はあるタイプのプラスチックにダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。インストラクションに従って、接着剤リムーバーを注入するときは特にご注意ください。
必要な工具と部品
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Macを起動し、ターミナルを開きます。
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以下のコマンドをターミナルにコピー(または正確にタイプ)します。
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00
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[return]キーを押します。パスワードを求められたら、管理者パスワードを入力し、 [return]キーを再度押します。補足: [return]キーは ⏎ や "enter"として印字されている場合もあります。
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03
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この手順で使用する道具：Magnetic Project Mat$19.95
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P5ペンタローブドライバーを使って、下部ケースを固定している6本のネジを外します。
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6.2mmネジー2本
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3.4mmネジー4本
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開口ピックの先端を下部ケースと筐体の間の隙間に差し込みます。
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開口ピックをコーナー付近でスライドし、デバイス横に沿って、半分の位置まで動かします。
Be careful and try to move slowly on this step. Once the clip released, my pick slipped towards the back and I could have damaged some internal components but got lucky. Only insert the pick as far as absolutely necessary
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反対側も開口ピックを使って同じ作業を繰り返してください。2番目のクリップを外します。
Recommend being very careful on this step and the following step when using any opening tool to always keep the “pointy end” up when prying, especially about 40mm up the side, to avoid completely destroying the speaker diaphragms.
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MacBookの前面側に向かって、しっかりと下部ケースを引き抜きます。(ヒンジのエリアを外すように)下部ケースを固定している最後のクリップを外します。
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最初に片側コーナーから、次に反対側のコーナーを外します。
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下部ケースを取り出します。
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所定の位置に載せて、クリップをディスプレイヒンジの近くに合わせます。 カバーを押し下げて、ヒンジに向かってスライドさせます。 クリップが上手く装着できれば、それ以上スライドできません。
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クリップが完全にかみ合って、下部ケースが正しく位置合わせができているように見えたら、下部ケースをしっかりと押し込み、下にある4つの隠しクリップをかみ合わせます。 各クリップが装着する感覚があるはずです。
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バッテリーカバーを覆う大型テープを、バッテリーに一番近い側のロジックボードの端から剥がします。
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テープを剥がします。
It’s probably best to keep up with this tape until you’re done, but my iFixit battery came with this tape already installed
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スパッジャーの先端を使って、ケーブルをコネクタに固定している、小さな黒いロッキングタブを持ち上げます。
Be very careful here. It is easy to break the whole connector off the battery board, which is what I did. Luckily the connector is part of the replacement battery, so you just need to remove the connector from the cable. The pictures here should provide more detail so you can see better what is going on.
thanks a lot !!!!! great help :)
any advice on replacing the locking Mechanism?
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バッテリーボードのデータケーブルを、ソケットからスライドして外します。
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ロジックボードと平行に、ケーブルの方向にスライドさせます。
As simple as this step might seem, the golden leads will disapper the moment you remove it as it has some adhesive under the black strip that covers it. Ensure you peel it back enough to display the golden leads after swapping the batteries out.
Your battery may come with this ribbon cable. In that case, disconnect the other end.
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バッテリーボードのデータケーブルを、作業の邪魔にならないサイドで折り曲げます。
unfortunately the instructions to removing this cable are absent and I tried to pry the tab up instead of out and I damaged my board. Now no battery will work but it still functions with only with power cord. So be careful!
same here 😞
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スパッジャーを使って、バッテリー電源コネクタを慎重に持ち上げて、バッテリーの接続を外します。
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コネクタがソケットから離れるように、コネクタを十分に高く持ち上げます。 修理中に誤って接触してしまうと、MacBook Proに損傷を与える可能性があります。
To completely avoid accidental contacts I recommend to wrap this connector in a piece of paper and hold it in place with tape.
Do not put tape directly on the contact underside, as that may leave some glue that would affect the contact conductivity.
I put a piece of tape on the underside of the connector (sticky side up) to insure against accidental battery contact. If you put tape on the logic board side of the connection, some insulating padding material might accidentally stick to the tape when the tape is removed during reassembly.
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T3トルクスドライバーを使って、トラックパッドケーブルのコネクタブラケットを固定している1.8mmネジを2本外します。
OK gracias Jonny traduzco tu comentario: Los míos son T5 y ciertamente no T3
Worked fine with a Torx T4 from the iFixit Essentials Kit.
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温めたiOpenerを用意し、トラックパッドリボンケーブルの上に1分ほど置き、トラックパッドリボンケーブルをバッテリー上部に固定している接着剤を柔らかくします。
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iOpenerをお持ちでない場合は、ドライヤーでケーブルを温めてください。ケーブルが温まる程度で、触っても熱くない程度にします。バッテリーを温め過ぎないように注意してください。
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T5トルクスドライバーを使って、トラックパッドアセンブリを固定している10本のネジを外します。
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4.3 mmネジー2本
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5.8 mmネジー8本
I recommend putting a microfiber cloth or something similar between the screen and the trackpad before doing this - so the trackpad doesn’t rest on the screen once released
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T5トルクスドライバーを使って、バッテリーボードから3.2mmネジを2本外します。
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ディスプレイを保護するため、作業中はディスプレイとキーボードの間にアルミフォイルシートを装着してください。
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さらに、ペンキ用などの剥がしやすいテープをトラックパッドエリアに装着してください。オプションとして、余分な接着剤リムーバーが飛び散らないように、トラックパッドエリアの下に直接紙タオルなどを載せてください。
This is an important point. I had missed. I feel a better image with a towel would better emphasize.
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テープの端に沿ってスパッジャーを押して、MacBook Proのアルミニウムケースにしっかりと貼り付け、スピーカーをバッテリーから密閉します。
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テープを折りまげて、スピーカーに軽く装着して、作業の邪魔にならないようにします。
The speaker membrane is also relatively delicate. You can put a small piece of paper to protect it, to avoid the tape gluing to it directly.
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接着剤リムーバーの流れをコントロールするには、MacBook Proの裏側端(ヒンジ側)の下に本やホーム製ブロックなどを置くなどして、5cm程度傾斜させてください。
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MacBook Proの作業準備が完了です。次は、あなた自身を安全装備しましょう。
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接着剤リムーバーを塗布する際は、保護メガネを着用してください。(保護メガネはキットに含まれます。)
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保護メガネを装着せずにコンタクトレンズの装着はしないでください。
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保護グローブもキットに含まれています。肌荒れや敏感肌の方は、ここでグローブを装着してください。
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黒いゴム製ストッパーを接着剤リムーバーから引っ張って外します。
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ハサミを使ってアプリケーターのシールされた先端をカットします。
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先端を細くカットすると、少量のリムーバーをコントールよく塗布できます。
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接着剤リムーバーを2つの右側バッテリーセルの下に注入します。
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液体接着リムーバーが浸透して、接着力が弱まるまで、約2分間待機してください。それから次の作業に進みます。
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この手順で使用する道具：Plastic Cards$2.99
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2、3分経過後、プラスチックカードの角をバッテリーの下に差し込みます。一番右側のセルの下側端から作業を初めてください。
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カードを左右に揺らしながら、2つのバッテリーセルの下全体をスライドします。
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接着剤を完全に剥がせたら、バッテリーを持ち上げますが、MacBookから完全に取り出さないでください。
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プラスチックカードを一時的にバッテリーの下に残します。次の作業に進んだ時、接着剤が再装着するのを防ぐためです。
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バッテリーセルの下のカードが上手くスライドできない場合、フロスやワイヤを使って、バッテリーセルの下に通し、鋸を引くように交互に左右へ引きます。
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前の2−３の手順を繰り返して、一番左側のバッテリーセルを乖離します。
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MacBook Proの左側を上げて、接着剤リムーバーがスピーカーに流れこまないようにします。
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一番左側バッテリーセルの下に、プラスチックカードの1つのコーナーをスライドして、バッテリーを固定している接着剤を慎重に剥がします。
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作業中にセルが再接着しないように、プラスチックカードをセルの下に一時的に置いておきます。
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残り3つのバッテリーセルの下に、接着剤を数滴落とします。
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リムーバーの漏れに注意し、必要に応じて次の手順で接着剤リムーバーを追加してください。
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次の手順に進むまでに、約2分間置いてください。
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前の手順で既に分離した左端バッテリーセルの下にプラスチックカードを完全にスライドさせ、残り左側のバッテリーセルとMacBook Proのアルミケースの間に慎重に差し込みます。
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プラスチックカードの一角を、一番大きい中央のバッテリーセル上部の下に差し込みます。
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カードを左右に揺らしながら、バッテリーセルの下をスライドして、固められた接着剤から完全に乖離します。
This was VERY hard for me. I’m not sure whether there are any risks to this - it worked fine for me - but after doing this step and prying the back of the battery up a little, I propped up the front of the laptop and added some isopropyl alcohol to the front side of these cells. Take your time, let the alcohol work, and apply more as needed (I used 90% isopropyl instead of adhesive remover)
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この手順で使用する道具：Tweezers$4.99
Cleaning up the little clear patches of adhesive residue after getting the black bits off took quite a while... I used isopropyl alcohol and found that you can drop a little on the residue, wait until it changes to kind of a blue-ish color, then wipe it off! (I used a coffee filter...)
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この手順で使用する道具：Tesa 61395 Tape$12.99
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旧モデルではバッテリーデータケーブルが、バッテリボードの下に挟まっていないか確認してください。
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バッテリーの底側にプレインストールされた接着剤が付いている場合は、裏返して、慎重にシールを剥がして、接着面を露出させます。バッテリーに接着シールが付いていない場合は、Tesa 61395のような両面接着テープを使ってバッテリーを固定します。
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バッテリーの装着位置を確認したら、定位置に取り付けます。
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バッテリーをしっかりと5−10秒間、下部ケースに押し込んで、固定させます。
Extremely detailed and easy to follow instructions! I ordered all the tools from ifixit and they worked great. I didn’t use the adhesive remover. I was able to carefully work a plastic card behind each battery section. This took a little more effort but I didn’t feel comfortable using acetone on a macbook.
Instead of acetone/alcohol blend adhesive remover I used 91% isopropyl alcohol available at any pharmacy. Acetone will melt many/most plastics, alcohol will not.
91% isopropyl alcohol and a thin plastic card worked fine, took a little more time and patience but worked.
While the acetone is better at loosening/removing adhesive, you also increase the risk of damaging plastics around the battery area or worse if it should leak into the keyboard or other area!
As the instructions note ... DO NOT over apply their adhesive remover!
Thanks iFixit for providing great tutorials, parts and supplies!
Happy Customer
Professional!!!!!
Thank you mate!
This how you care and describe it step by step it’s amazing.
😻
If your battery comes with clear plastic film on the top, leave it on until the battery is installed — helps keep all the cells together. I lined up the middle cells first and pressed them in, then took off the clear liner one side at a time to place the other cells
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デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらの手順を逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
e-wasteを処理する場合は、認可済みリサイクルセンターR2を通じて廃棄してください。
修理が上手く進みませんか？まずはベーシックなトラブルシューティングを試してみるか、このモデルのアンサーコミュニティに尋ねてみましょう。
デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらの手順を逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
e-wasteを処理する場合は、認可済みリサイクルセンターR2を通じて廃棄してください。
修理が上手く進みませんか？まずはベーシックなトラブルシューティングを試してみるか、このモデルのアンサーコミュニティに尋ねてみましょう。
32 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:
100%
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15 件のコメント
Why doesn’t this kit contain a P5 pentalobe screwdriver? It’s literally the first step, and now I have to buy another tool to even get started?
Hi John, which kit did you purchase? We don’t sell a battery replacement kit for this exact model, only the part, so you’d have to make sure you have all the tools listed in the guide before you buy the part and add anything you don’t have to your cart.
If a P5 was supposed to be included in the kit you did purchase, reach out to customer service and they will promptly send one to you.
Great guide… worked for me. Only comment I would make is that finding the Adhesive remover on its own was impossible so I removed the old battery with some patience, floss and the the plastic levering tools. I cleaned off the remaining old sticky stuff and residue with basic sticky stuff remover and it worked just fine :)
Great guide to at least get to unplugging the battery. My daughter’s work computer was black screened and would not arise despite working the power button and changing chargers. I figured it just needed a super hard reset. So, this guide helped me get the back off and the battery unplugged. Put it all back together and - I’m a hero for a minute!
The guide provided great instructions. I had never replaced a battery in a Macbook Pro 2019 before. I was able to do so with this information. All was well for about 10 minutes after the new battery was installed. Laptop booted and I was able to access the internet. I walked away for a few minutes and returned to see a dark gray screen with about one inch columns in the across the display in the background. I hear the chime when the laptop boots and that's it. The instructions were just what I needed. Thank you.
Thank you! Repair is done
Hi there I just change my battery. But it's not being detected. I'm currently just running it on the power cable only. Any solutions.
What a wonderful and detailed tutorial! Respect! And thank you very much! The underside of my MacbookPro (2019, Intel) bulged outwards, the batteries always got VERY hot - especially in Turbo Boost. After switching off the Turbo Boost (Turbo Boot Switcher Pro), the batteries no longer got hot, but the curvature became more and more pronounced. After loosening the screws that hold the lower cover, it jumped out at me. All the cells were swollen and under high pressure.
I didn't use acetone and instead very carefully loosened the glue with a corner of the small "cheque cards". This required some patience, but worked very well and without kinking or destroying the cells. Using the acetone (and Q-tips), I finally only removed the adhesive residue. The tools supplied were complete and of good quality.
Thank You again!
Was für eine traumhafte und detaillierte Anleitung! Respekt! Und meinen allerbesten Dank!
Bei meinem MacbookPro (2019, Intel) wölbte sich die Unterseite nach außen, die Akkus wurden -insbesondere im Turbo-Boost- immer SEHR heiß. Nach Abstellen des Turbo-Boost (Turbo Boot Switcher Pro) wurden die Akkus zwar nicht mehr heiß, aber die Wölbung wurde immer stärker. Nach Lösen der Schrauben, die den unteren Deckel halten, sprang mir dieser schon entgegen. Alle Zellen waren gebläht und standen unter hohem Druck.
Auf das Aceton habe ich verzichtet und statt dessen sehr vorsichtig mit einer Ecke der kleinen „Scheckkarten“ den Kleber gelöst. Das erforderte etwas Geduld, ging aber sehr gut und ohne die Zellen zu knicken oder zu zerstören. MIt dem Aceton (und Q-Tips) habe ich schließlich nur die Kleberreste entfernt. Die mitgelieferten Werkzeuge waren komplett und von guter Qualität.
Nochmals meinen besten Dank!
Great guide! Thank you. I would also like to make a helpful comment: by the time you start to assembly (after step 44), start first installing the trackpad and adjust the position of it properly. Maybe is quite obvious but is not clear in the guide. And also before to adhere the battery to the case, ensure to put the battery board screws (two 3.2 mm T5 Torx screws), because it will make easy the battery installation. Remember also start for the middle modules and then the side ones. Good luck!
Hello, one question : is your replacement battery model will be seen as an original Apple one or will the OS notify an unknown battery model has been installed ?
Fortunately no! At least the one I've installed (from iGadgets NZ) don't show up any signs of 'not genuine part'. Really looks like genuine in terms of performance and in macOS settings as well (currently running Sequoia 15.1.1).
Fede2T -
Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.
Macrepair SF - 返信
@mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!
Jeff Suovanen -
Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.
Dan -
This did not work when running High Sierra.
Kyle B - 返信
Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.
Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>
Cool_Breeze - 返信
I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.
Brian - 返信
Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(
Nursat b - 返信
BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.
Jason Sherron - 返信
This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?
Patrick Machacek - 返信
Not able to do that with damaged screen
richardjgreen - 返信
If you have a damaged screen you can still use a converter from thunderbolt (USB 3) to HDMI and plug your Macbook Pro to your TV as monitor display. Just make sure to chose the right Source (HDMI IN) in your TV. I did it and to make it work I unplug and plug again in my Macbook and so I could disable the Auto boot
Roberto Sanchez Bustos -
Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian
Adrian Vizik - 返信
Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.
Roberto Enrieu - 返信
running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted
result: `AutoBoot %00`
Marek Polák - 返信
Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's:
nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot'to display the current state, the default istrue- and then to change it,sudo nvram auto-boot=falsewhich turns it off.Ed Mechem -
This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.
Grant Ormsby - 返信
It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.
tommy404 - 返信
I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.
hatuxka - 返信
BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!
I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.
Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.
bcardanha - 返信
I've just received my replacement battery and it reads 0,042V between the two main connectors. Do you think it's dead?
peter sussex -
When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”
johann beda - 返信
When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a
pwd(print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.Ed Mechem -
I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.
I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.
I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.
Mircea Comanici - 返信
After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.
Ed Mease - 返信
This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.
G Sena - 返信
Est ce que cela fonctionne sur un macbook pro 2017 sans touchbar ?
maël muzelet - 返信
Bonjour Maël, oui, ce tutoriel concerne "les MacBook Pro 2016 (et plus récents) et les MacBook Retina 12" 2017 (et plus récents)"
Claire Miesch -
Excellent instructions. I was able to follow and install the new screen. I recommend that you get a good set of tools before you begin. I started with an inexpensive repair kit bought online. The Penta and torx bits failed. I bought an IFIXIT kit with quality bits and I was able to do everything I needed.
Tom Markham - 返信
If you're not running an admin account the sudo command won't work (which honestly, you should not be running admin). Rather than logging in to your admin amount via the OS, in the terminal type "login [admin username]," then the password and you'll be able to do the sudo command as described above. Once you're complete, type "logout [admin username]" and you'll be good to go. Obviously replace [admin username] with whatever the account name for your admin user is.
arichard2401 - 返信
For those unable to complete this step because the screen is too damaged I recommend leaving your macbook on until the battery dies.
Nicholas R Licato - 返信
Just replaced my 2018 15" MBP battery. Running Sonoma.
I found no way to disable AutoBoot (The status can be checked in the Power section of system report).
Anyway, i left my battery completely drain before opening the MBP, and had no issues during the process.
Cédric Bontems - 返信
After sending this command in terminal when I checked what happens if I now open the lid, instead the screen lit slightly up (still black) then a battery symbol showing the charging state showed up.
Now, after replacement of the battery, this is all I get to see.
No reset of NVRAM nor PRAM helped.
Currently the new battery charges (58% atm) and it feels like it‘s mocking me.
webrockers - 返信
I suspected the keyboard or TouchID sensor wouldn’t work, so I went on and checked every connector.
I missed connecting the left TouchID sensor from step 31.
webrockers -
Read the comments section at the bottom of the article before proceeding with the repair. It is unnecessary to remove the logic board. I actually removed the 45mm plastic bar to enable the cables to slip out then in. It is only there to frustrate repairers!
Jack - 返信