Adding an update. Installed the iOS 12.4.7 update this morning and amazingly the iPad now shows the charging symbol when the charger is plugged in! This is the first time it’s done this in like 4 years! Guess it must have been some weird iOS bug that’s finally quashed. Well done Apple. Got there in the end!
Someone please correct the time on this guide. There’s no way this is a 10 minute job!!
Plus the replacement keyboard (not bought yet) doesn’t seem to have the screw mount holes around the frame? Are there some steps missing to transplate the backing plate from the old keyboard to the new? Or should the new come with a backing plate with the required screw holes?
I thought I was going to tear the cable doing it the way it’s suggested in the guide. After examining the cable on the replacement screen, I found it easier to hold the bottom connector pressed against the screen with one leg of needle nose tweezers whilst gently prying off the top connector with an opening tool.
One slight problem I found with the Mid 2018 MacBook Pro 13-inch: It still powers on if you accidentally touch the touchpad or inadvertently press a key. Is there a way to disable this behaviour temporarily whilst carrying out repairs?
On top of that, I couldn’t find a comprehensive 2018 teardown guide, so wasn’t even sure which one was the battery connector. I disconnected what I thought was the battery, but viewing some other videos, it appears I didn’t have the battery disconnected whilst replacing the screen! Out of sheer luck, nothing got fried and the replacement screen works fine.
The 1.1 screws are at a slight angle (on the 2018 model, not sure about the 2017 one) so make sure you angle your screwdriver around 10° off vertical towards the rear edge of the machine.
Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.
Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>
On an early 2015 model, I found the T9 Torx bit to be too tight a fit in the hinge screw heads. Almost to the point where one screw head got slightly damaged as the bit slipped when turning as it hadn’t gone in far enough. This is the T9 bit that came with the iFixIt 64 bit driver kit.
So I used the T8 bit instead and managed to loosen the other screws much more easily. It’s a slightly looser fit but it goes in further and didn’t slip even though the screws on this particular machine were very very tightly screwed in.
Someone please correct the time on this guide. There’s no way this is a 10 minute job!!
Plus the replacement keyboard (not bought yet) doesn’t seem to have the screw mount holes around the frame? Are there some steps missing to transplate the backing plate from the old keyboard to the new? Or should the new come with a backing plate with the required screw holes?
The iPhone 8 replacement screen I bought came with an adhesive set and didn’t have final release liners.
I thought I was going to tear the cable doing it the way it’s suggested in the guide. After examining the cable on the replacement screen, I found it easier to hold the bottom connector pressed against the screen with one leg of needle nose tweezers whilst gently prying off the top connector with an opening tool.
One slight problem I found with the Mid 2018 MacBook Pro 13-inch: It still powers on if you accidentally touch the touchpad or inadvertently press a key. Is there a way to disable this behaviour temporarily whilst carrying out repairs?
On top of that, I couldn’t find a comprehensive 2018 teardown guide, so wasn’t even sure which one was the battery connector. I disconnected what I thought was the battery, but viewing some other videos, it appears I didn’t have the battery disconnected whilst replacing the screen! Out of sheer luck, nothing got fried and the replacement screen works fine.
The 1.1 screws are at a slight angle (on the 2018 model, not sure about the 2017 one) so make sure you angle your screwdriver around 10° off vertical towards the rear edge of the machine.
On the 2018 model, there are two more clips that need to be popped on the sides in the middle. Then it slides out easily.
Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.
Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>
1. Where are the cutting tools available from?
2. Which adhesive did you use? It is easy enough to open again if the need arose in the future?
On an early 2015 model, I found the T9 Torx bit to be too tight a fit in the hinge screw heads. Almost to the point where one screw head got slightly damaged as the bit slipped when turning as it hadn’t gone in far enough. This is the T9 bit that came with the iFixIt 64 bit driver kit.
So I used the T8 bit instead and managed to loosen the other screws much more easily. It’s a slightly looser fit but it goes in further and didn’t slip even though the screws on this particular machine were very very tightly screwed in.
This is quite scary. I wonder what the technical explanation for this behaviour is?
Is it safe to just power it up using the built in battery? And then once it powers up, plug in the normal charger?
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