Adding an update. Installed the iOS 12.4.7 update this morning and amazingly the iPad now shows the charging symbol when the charger is plugged in! This is the first time it’s done this in like 4 years! Guess it must have been some weird iOS bug that’s finally quashed. Well done Apple. Got there in the end!
I used the OWC tape on a 2012 SSD upgrade. A week later I was mortified to learn from the customer that the screen came away from the casing while he was using the machine. Luckily he caught it and put tape on the top outside to stop it happening again. Not what you want to hear when your reputation rides on your work.
Now I’m left wondering if I should chance it again on another machine I need to do or go with some thicker 3M stuff. Is the 3M stuff easily cuttable if the machine ever needed to be opened again?
I’m thinking the adhesive warms up and loosens when the machine is under load? Worried.
Has anyone had the display fall out after a few days of use when the machine warms up and the adhesive softens?
How do we prevent that from happening?
Is it just my imagination or are the replacement adhesive strips thinner than the Apple originals? After cutting the original adhesive we are left with a thin layer on the frame AND a thin layer on the back of the front glass. To me it feels like the replacement tape is only as thick as one of these layers, so there’s less flex to take up any minor variations in level and ultimately a weaker join.
I also have no idea if the replacement adhesive retains its grab strength once the machine warms up in use.
I found i didn’t need to remove the speaker nor the hard drive. In fact I managed to remove the old PSU without even removing the chin strap. However, to install the replacement PSU, I had to remove the chin strap. So I would say, remove the chin strap, but you can optionally leave the speaker and hard drive in.
Someone please correct the time on this guide. There’s no way this is a 10 minute job!!
Plus the replacement keyboard (not bought yet) doesn’t seem to have the screw mount holes around the frame? Are there some steps missing to transplate the backing plate from the old keyboard to the new? Or should the new come with a backing plate with the required screw holes?
I thought I was going to tear the cable doing it the way it’s suggested in the guide. After examining the cable on the replacement screen, I found it easier to hold the bottom connector pressed against the screen with one leg of needle nose tweezers whilst gently prying off the top connector with an opening tool.
One slight problem I found with the Mid 2018 MacBook Pro 13-inch: It still powers on if you accidentally touch the touchpad or inadvertently press a key. Is there a way to disable this behaviour temporarily whilst carrying out repairs?
On top of that, I couldn’t find a comprehensive 2018 teardown guide, so wasn’t even sure which one was the battery connector. I disconnected what I thought was the battery, but viewing some other videos, it appears I didn’t have the battery disconnected whilst replacing the screen! Out of sheer luck, nothing got fried and the replacement screen works fine.
The 1.1 screws are at a slight angle (on the 2018 model, not sure about the 2017 one) so make sure you angle your screwdriver around 10° off vertical towards the rear edge of the machine.
Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.
Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>
I used the OWC tape on a 2012 SSD upgrade. A week later I was mortified to learn from the customer that the screen came away from the casing while he was using the machine. Luckily he caught it and put tape on the top outside to stop it happening again. Not what you want to hear when your reputation rides on your work.
Now I’m left wondering if I should chance it again on another machine I need to do or go with some thicker 3M stuff. Is the 3M stuff easily cuttable if the machine ever needed to be opened again?
I’m thinking the adhesive warms up and loosens when the machine is under load? Worried.
Has anyone had the display fall out after a few days of use when the machine warms up and the adhesive softens?
How do we prevent that from happening?
Is it just my imagination or are the replacement adhesive strips thinner than the Apple originals? After cutting the original adhesive we are left with a thin layer on the frame AND a thin layer on the back of the front glass. To me it feels like the replacement tape is only as thick as one of these layers, so there’s less flex to take up any minor variations in level and ultimately a weaker join.
I also have no idea if the replacement adhesive retains its grab strength once the machine warms up in use.
I found i didn’t need to remove the speaker nor the hard drive. In fact I managed to remove the old PSU without even removing the chin strap. However, to install the replacement PSU, I had to remove the chin strap. So I would say, remove the chin strap, but you can optionally leave the speaker and hard drive in.
Someone please correct the time on this guide. There’s no way this is a 10 minute job!!
Plus the replacement keyboard (not bought yet) doesn’t seem to have the screw mount holes around the frame? Are there some steps missing to transplate the backing plate from the old keyboard to the new? Or should the new come with a backing plate with the required screw holes?
The iPhone 8 replacement screen I bought came with an adhesive set and didn’t have final release liners.
I thought I was going to tear the cable doing it the way it’s suggested in the guide. After examining the cable on the replacement screen, I found it easier to hold the bottom connector pressed against the screen with one leg of needle nose tweezers whilst gently prying off the top connector with an opening tool.
One slight problem I found with the Mid 2018 MacBook Pro 13-inch: It still powers on if you accidentally touch the touchpad or inadvertently press a key. Is there a way to disable this behaviour temporarily whilst carrying out repairs?
On top of that, I couldn’t find a comprehensive 2018 teardown guide, so wasn’t even sure which one was the battery connector. I disconnected what I thought was the battery, but viewing some other videos, it appears I didn’t have the battery disconnected whilst replacing the screen! Out of sheer luck, nothing got fried and the replacement screen works fine.
The 1.1 screws are at a slight angle (on the 2018 model, not sure about the 2017 one) so make sure you angle your screwdriver around 10° off vertical towards the rear edge of the machine.
On the 2018 model, there are two more clips that need to be popped on the sides in the middle. Then it slides out easily.
Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.
Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>
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