Just did a full display and mid frame replacement on an LG V20 with the entire backlight out except for the upper right corner. It did NOT solve the issue. Will run board through an ultrasonic cleaner, in case there was some minor water damage. I also noticed some very slight damage on lcd fpc socket on the motherboard. Will report back if I have any success.

Well, for starters, let's clear up some terminology here. Terminilogy: GLASS - the uppermost layer, what your fingers touch. This is the glass. Just glass. Usually color bonded bezel, with or without markings for capacitive buttons, cutout for home button etc. DIGITIZER- Just bellow the glass, this is a thin, transparent layer, typically also made of extremely thin glass. This is what senses touch input, and translates it into readable data for the phone. Often times, the glass and the digitizer will come bundled together, pre-adhered to one another. If there's any chance that the digi must be replaced, its always best to go with a glass+digi combo, as adhering the two together is near impossible without special equipment. Plus, the glass+digitizer combo is general not much more expensive than just the glass itself. Other phones, such as Samsung Galaxy phones, have the digitizer built into the LCD/screen, instead. Determining how a specific phone is built before planing a repair and purchasing parts is...

Unfortunately , it's either the spring mechanism, or just hardware failure of the sd card slot. I have an RCA Cambio and my sd card slot just straight up quit. All the drivers are there, yet nothing. The touchscreen also stopped functioning after update to winbdows 10. Windows doesn't seem to even be concerned or show that there is a touchscreen device. These are super cheap tablets. The downside is that they are not the most well built devices, and if they break, you're better off just buying a new one because sending it in for repair would cost just as much, :/

True, CDMA phones do not work on SIM technology; however, all LTE caable CDMA phones have an embedded SIM with a unique hard-coded ICCID that the network uses for LTE authentication. If the hard-coded ICCID belonged to a phone that was reported lost or stolen, it gets blacklisted just like an ESN/IMEI would. It is not an actual SIM card. It is a surface mounted chip, one of those small black rectangles on the board, with no visible soldering joints. Because of this, it requires hot air rework to be removed (hot-air pencil). A regular soldering iron won't cut it. It is a litttle smaller than one square cm, and will say something like: <letter and some numbers> <first 10 digits of the ICCID> <last 10 digits of the ICCID> XX NEX I literally, not 5 minutes ago, swapped one from one of my Sprint Galaxy s3's to another. The donor is a 16gb with some water damage, and had an embedded SIM with a clean ICCID. The target is a fully functional 32gb board that I bought used, but the embedded SIM has a bad ICCID (so no...

Yeah, man. That's a bummer. I had gotten a waterproof case for my s3 a while back. I was out by the pool and I had mentioned to my 9yo niece my case was waterproof. My 5yo nephew didn't believe me. So naturally, I give it to him and say "throw it in." I had been using it in/near the water all day, and no problems. Turns out when it hit the water, it hit at such an angle that the earpiece membrane was pierced by the pressure. Here's the crazy part. I didn't even notice. It remained powered on and waterlogged for over an hour before I went to use it and it wouldst register touch (due to water in between screen and screen cover of case). I turned it on and off TWICE in this state before it dawned on me that it was full of water. I turned it back off immediately, and then did this: (Note: This happened to my s3, but this is generally the best path of action to take with any phone that comes in contact with water) (1) Took phone out of case, removed battery cover and took out the battery and sd card. (2) Used...

It should be noted that the glass can be much more difficult to remove when it is cracked and shattered (as is usually the reason for replacement) . Depending on the location and severity of the cracks, the order and technique of removal requires modification.

I have found that putting a layer of clear packing tape over the entire screen is helpful, wether it's cracked or not. It will prevent the spraying of glass shards, should the glass break while separating the adhesive; with a broken screen, it should eliminate the risk of cutting yourself during removal, as well as hold all the pieces together. Unfortunately, it also makes the iOpener slightly less effective, so peel it back when applying it. Suction cups can also be helpful during final removal of the glass.

Having a hot air gun/pencil can be helpful in removing smaller pieces if broken glass that remain once the bulk of it is removed.