はじめに
iPhone SE 2020の壊れたイヤピーススピーカーを交換します。
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iPhoneの下端を加熱すると、ディスプレイを固定している接着剤が柔らかくなり、開きやすくなります。
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ヘアドライヤーを使用するか、iOpenerを準備し、ディスプレイ裏側の接着剤を柔らかくするために、iPhone下部端に約90秒間あてます。
Hello,
What temperature is suitable for removing the front display ? I bought i-Fixit ProTech which is not include the heating "roller" . Thanks for help
Jiří Sítko - 返信
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ホームボタンのすぐ上にあるフロントパネルの下半分に吸盤を取り付けます。
Even with using high heat from a blow dryer, I had to put the suction cup over the home button or the bottom edge wouldn’t lift at all. That waterproof adhesive is incredibly strong.
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一定の力で吸盤カップを引き上げて、フロントパネルとリアケースの間にわずかな隙間を作ります。
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隙間に開口ピックを挿入します。
Just completed a smashed screen replacement, this is probably the most time consuming part. Used packing tape to cover the screen to help create a suction surface (had to replace it a couple times because it pulls away after a purple good pulls ) Used consistent heat for about 5 minutes, then stuck a pick in the tiniest opening… and pry pry pry!
Brian Gill - 返信
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本のページをめくるように、ディスプレイの左側を持ち上げてiPhoneを開きます。
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作業がしやすいように、iPhoneを開口をしたままディスプレイの後ろに衝立を置き、立てかけてください。
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下側にあるディスプレイケーブルのブラケットをロジックボードに固定している4本のプラスネジを取り外します。
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2本の1.3 mmネジ
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2本の2.8 mmネジ
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ブラケットを取り外します。
Not Y000 this time haha
It is not ideal, but possible for these screws.
using the repair kit i purchased with my screen replacement, i am currently having issues removing these screws with the PH000. please help
Mark Ordaz - 返信
I was too, thankfully I had another set that contained the PH00 bit, that worked great for me.
Ok. My screw is stuck. How do I remove it? Philips head is stripped.
Solved it myself. Firm pressure did the trick.
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スパッジャーの先端を使って、基板上のソケットからバッテリーコネクターの接続を外します。
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バッテリコネクタケーブルを基板から少し離して曲げます。アクシデントでケーブルがソケットに接触していまい、iPhoneの電源が入らないようにするためです。
Make sure you pry the battery connector off from the right hand side as shown in the picture. Theres a delicate component on the logicboard near the battery connector called a Mosfet which is linked to the battery charging software. If you knock it off accidently you’ll loose battery charging and the phone will boot loop and youll need to have it re-soldered back on.
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フロントパネルのセンサーアセンブリコネクターとブラケットを固定している3本の1.3 mmプラスねじを取り外します。
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ブラケットを取り出します。
If you are replacing the adhesive liner, the remaining release liner strips will interfere with the two outer screws. I had to cut a working section out of the liner at each location and move it aside with the spudger.
This part is throwing me for a loop. Having difficulty finding the read head for these screws. Is it the same size as the two small 1.3mm screws in step 12?
ended up getting it with the PH000, I must of just been rushing it.
My bracket looks different and none of the screw heads I have fits.
These screws did not stick to the magnetic screwdriver. Extremely difficult to get them back in place - but with some patience i succeeded :)
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ディスプレイアセンブリを取り外します。
Hi ifixit, if you find my method dangerous, please remove it.
After Step 17, I skipped Step 18 to Step 28.
At Step 29, I lifted up the four adhesive black pull-tabs to expose the white adhesive side. Next, I use hot air gun and blow on the back cover of the iphone for about a minute (maybe a hairdryer will work too) .
Warning: Don't overheat the iPhone, or you may accidentally ignite the battery.
I think the temperature was around 60 DegC.
Extreme Caution: Do Not overheat. I use my hand to gauge the hotness. Careful not to burn yourself or the board.
I was able to pull out all the white adhesive tapes easily as the adhesive soften.
DO NOT TRY this method if you are a novice or inexperience! I am not responsible if you hurt yourself or damage your iphone!
Hey John! I’m glad the repair worked out for you!
From our research, applying heat does soften the adhesive strips, but it also causes them to lose structural integrity and break more easily. That’s why we normally suggest using heat after the strips are already broken. Removing the Taptic Engine definitely takes a few extra steps, but we feel that it gives fixers the best chance of pulling out the adhesive strips intact.
I agree with John, skip 18 through 27. These are to make it easier to remove the battery adhesive. I replaced the batteries on two IPhone 8s. The first one I did all that stuff and the adhesive still broken and I had to carefully pry the battery out anyway. When I reassembled the phone the Home button no longer worked. Looking it up, this is apparently fairly common due to all the fragile wires involved in these steps. The second I skipped these steps and when I reassembled it everything worked fine. Not one of the eight (both phones) adhesive strips came out properly. I fully drained the batteries before doing the repairs. By the way, I use the virtual home button on the one phone, it’s a little annoying, but the phone is still usable if you’re not ready to shell out for a new phone.
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イヤピーススピーカーを取り出します。
The metal faceplate that you can see in the image on my speaker has been scratched an scored from a previous repair by someone else. Could this affect the speaker in any way?
Hi Kyle,
The metal shield should have no effect on the speaker. Granted, it may hint that damage was done around the area, which may have damaged the speaker module.
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オリジナルのパーツと交換用パーツをよく見比べてください。交換用パーツに付いていない残りのコンポーネントや接着シールなどは、インストールする前に新パーツに移植する必要があります。
デバイスを再組立する際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
e-wasteを処理する場合は、認可済みリサイクルセンターR2を通じて廃棄してください。
修理が上手く進みませんか？トラブルシューティングのヘルプはiPhone SE 2020のアンサーコミュニティを参照してください。
オリジナルのパーツと交換用パーツをよく見比べてください。交換用パーツに付いていない残りのコンポーネントや接着シールなどは、インストールする前に新パーツに移植する必要があります。
デバイスを再組立する際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
e-wasteを処理する場合は、認可済みリサイクルセンターR2を通じて廃棄してください。
修理が上手く進みませんか？トラブルシューティングのヘルプはiPhone SE 2020のアンサーコミュニティを参照してください。
3 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
コメント1件
I’m attempting to discern which part i need exactly to fix the front ear speaker for my wife’s 2020 version iPhone SE.
This guide does not exactly provide a link to the part needed in this guide, only the tools of which i already have all that i need.
Any help in this regard would be very helpful
just how long are those screws- i turn and turn and turn and the lift off is soooo slight, seemingly insignificant…
An. Jahnke - 返信