iPhone 7 Plusのロジックボードの交換

@jeffsu Yes, that is correct. Apple does require all certified staff to discharge the battery below 25%. This is an industry standard for all LiION batteries. If you don’t want to do this, just make sure to not puncture the battery and disconnect it first thing.

Hang on a second here, doesn’t the Ifixit part I ordered come with the seals? The display assembly? It doesn’t. Now I have to wait another week?!

How do you turn off if the screen isn’t responding to touch?

The replacement battery came with the seal—but how do you put it on???

Instructions for replacing the seal are here: iPhoneディスプレイ用接着剤の交換

Hey, I just took apart my first iPhone 7 plus today, and it was easier for me to use guitar picks and a magic glass tool. I did tear the home flex on the screen—now I know to be more careful of that on disassembly—-~Katrina of iPad Rehab Microsoldering

First I tried to remove the screen with the hot iOpener, but it doesn’t worked, the day after I putted the Iphone in the sun for a while and then used the hot iOpener, then the screen was easy to remove :-)

Get a T-shirt add heat to a lil corner of it, with either a hair straighter or an Iron , touch the T-shirt if it’s seems hot but doesn’t burn u hold that lil hot piece of T-shirt against the edge ur trying to pry open , if it’s still not opening add a I’ll more heat,

I don’t think the iOpener was effective at softening the adhesive. Using a suction cup and the spudger is good enough.

Hi! My suction cup doesn’t work. It won’t strongly suck on my screen. Does anyone have any advice?

Heat it up just a little with a hair dryer make sure it’s flat , let it coo a bit now try it??

Be very careful not to pull up with too much force. My screen just shattered while I was pulling up with my suction cup. (There were no previous cracks or chips or anything).

I’m stuck on this part. I’ve heated the bottom up and attached the suction cup right above the home button, but I can’t pull it apart. I feel like I’m going to break the glass display. Tips?

Someone mentioned above, using strong tape helps .

You won’t be able to put the spudger into the gap unless the phone is in a vertical position (speaker side up) in your hands.

So if I broke the cable that connects the display to the logic board. What replacement part would I need to order now?

The tri wing screws are so hard to remove. What's the trick?

At first I think I was being too careful and was getting no where. I got better results by pressing down on the screwdriver with more pressure while turning and those little screws came right out.

my screwdriver will only remove the 2.6mm screw and not the others, what shall i do?

I am confused, please help. LOL the bracket, the very first one being removed. I see it has three screws the same size and one a different size? I've been trying to fix my daughter's phone and ordered a 0.6 mm Tri Wing screwdriver for iPhone 7 plus /Apple watch. It seems to fit the screws and it seems to be turning them although I can't see that well but they're not coming out. However when I used it on a smaller bracket with two screws they came right out so I'm thinking I don't have the right screwdriver I am at my Wit's End!! I have been working on this phone or attempting to for a while now. I cannot find a list anywhere of the exact size screwdrivers needed to Take apart an iPhone 7 plus. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

If your tri-wing screwdriver worked for other tri-point screws in the phone, then it should work for the screws you are struggling with! If it feels like the screws are spinning but not coming out, try to use tweezers to pull them out. I often struggle with tri-point screws, and need to apply some downward pressure to remove them. This can be risky though, as you do not want to strip the screw or damage components underneath the bracket. If you continue to struggle, you can give this driver and this bit a try.

Also be aware that the battery connector might stick to the bottom of the steel bracket. This part had me a bit puzzled at first. lol

Just gently pry the connector off the steel bracket to release it and be sure the connector isn’t allowed to accidentally reconnect to the board.

I had to use a fingernail to dislodge the bracket. As Jeffrey said, it was apparently stuck to the connector.

You could cover the battery socket with a small piece of tape to make sure that it doesn’t accidentally re-connect. It’s not likely to, but I liked the peace of mind.

on reassembly, make sure that the connector cable is back in place, along side the battery, and not up, or on top in any way.

I slipped a small piece of paper under the flap.

After this step it is worth jumping to step 36 and disconnecting the lighting connector assembly (indicated with the orange rectangle) and connecting the new cable to test it out. After attaching the new lightning connector assembly, reattach the battery, and try plugging it in to see if the new assembly works correctly. If it does, then power down the phone, disconnect the battery, and disconnect the new lightning connector assembly. Then continue. If it doesn’t work, this check will save you a couple of hours of work.

The note about the danger of pressing on the connector incorrectly is very legitimate. Though I find it more practical to use a wide (1.5 cm) case opener tool to press it down all at once. Minimizes risk of bending the connector.

what are my options if the display connector broke? can it be replaced or do I need to get a whole new screen?

When I removed the lower display cable bracket in step 12, the top connector stuck to the bracket and became disconnected.

Posted a comment above on the first step. The screwdriver that I ordered Works taking out these two screens shown in the picture. However it does not work on the first bracket that needs to be removed. It seems that all screw sizes are somewhat different but I'm not finding a list showing different screwdriver sizes needed. Does this make sense? Could anybody please give me some advice on this thank you much.

I know your comment was posted a long time ago but just in case someone else has the same problem, the only difference in the screws are the lengths. The ends are the same.

Chris West the screwdriver that probably came with the kit was pentalobe to get the first two screws out to open the case. you need a .6mm Y tip driver for internal. its deceptively Phillips looking but is not it only has three blades in a Y, not 4 in a +

Hello is it if I put wrong screw can damage the board?

Care should be taken while removing the last 1.0mm screw, on the far right in the picture. This screw is screwed into another screw (or standoff) beneath the bracket. This standoff may come unscrewed and upon removing the bracket you may find the screw and standoff are still attached to the bracket. Do not lose this part if you decide to separate them , the standoff is not a normal phillips, and may require a special driver to reinstall. I used the phillips to start it back in, and relied on the screw to tighten it upon reassembly.

I was able to remove the first 1.0 mm three tri-point Y000 screw from the bracket but I cannot for the life of me get the other 1.0 mm screw undone or the one 1.3 mm screw undone. Any tips?

I tried pressing down a bit harder and I even put the first screw back in to see if it helped me loosen the other two but it did not work.

My screwdriver was doing the job up until this point, and I’m worried I’ll strip the screw if I keep trying.

Would appreciate any advice!

Make sure that the orientation of the cable when you attach is correct! See the picture for the correct orientation. If it gets installed 180 degrees out(i.e., the ribbon goes up instead of down, then the earphone, front camera, and Home button will be inoperative. Ask me how I know!?! Worked great when installed correctly!

I also made this mistake! Thank goodness it didn’t break anything.

When removing the old adhesive from the edges, duct tape can be useful. Simply use small strips of duct tape and your spudger to press the tape’s adhesive side carefully into the edges of the phone’s display and slowly peel the duct tape away from the display. The duct tape should pick up the remaining adhesive and carry it away from the edges. use the tip of the spudger to gently scrape away any remaining dirt or film from the crease around the edge and repeat the action with a new strip of tape to pick up any dirt, adhesive or grime from the surface. This should save considerable time.

It is not necessary to remove the logic board. remove the three standoff screws and the simcard holder and push back the sim ejector pin and you can lift the logic board up about 7mm. with isopropyl to loosen the adhesive, slide a spudger under the old charge port cable you can easily slide it out. Makes the job a lot easier and quicker.

Thanks Jack,

Followed your advice and saves a fair bit of work.

Why is there a standoff screw here? No other screw goes into it so why not have a Phillips?

I strongly urge Ifixit to change this comment “In a pinch, a flathead screwdriver will do the job” - maybe ok for REMOVAL ONLY, but for REASSEMBLY - it is very dangerous - i used a flathead while fixing my daughters phone and they kept going crooked - easily causing me 1-2 hours of frustration and STRIPPING THE THREADS IN THE ALUMINUM BACK FRAME BODY !!!!

I had to hot glue a couple spots and skip several screws on reassembly to do the jankiest, most embarrasing repair job - BUY THE RIGHT SPECIAL TOOL FOR THE STANDOFF SCREWS OR YOU’LL REGRET IT!!!

There is no tool for this special screw. What gives?

This step is when you will also need to remove a second screw on the antenna flex cable, below and left of the circled screw.

What purpose do these coax cables have?

Ronald Stamper, is this the same for the 7?

I did not have the 2.0mm standoff screw (closest to the edge of the phone by the power button). The bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector (Step 15) was screwed in to this spot.

The cables need to be popped out of the clip by moving them up.

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