Talon

The GPU on my MacBook Pro is starting to fail every so often, leaving it with a black screen and no external graphics when...

I ordered a used (seller refurbished) MacBook Pro on eBay, and when it arrived I realized that they must have repaired the...

I would like to upgrade my current hard drive in my late-2011 MBP, but I don't want to spend money on a 2.5" drive that...

You might try booting in Single User Mode, and then using the command line to setup a new admin account. The monitoring may be superior to just that, but it’s worth a shot. There are two ways to boot in single user mode, depending on how updated the computer is: Method 1 (the new method) (1) Turn on your Mac, then immediately press and hold Command-R to start up from macOS Recovery. (2) Select Disk Utility from the Utilities window, then click Continue. (3) From the Disk Utility sidebar, select the volume that you're using, then choose File > Mount from the menu bar. (If the volume is already mounted, this option is dimmed.) Then enter your administrator password when prompted. (4) Quit Disk Utility. (5) Choose Terminal from the Utilities menu in the menu bar. (6) You can now enter UNIX commands. When done, choose Apple () menu > Restart. Method 2 (the old method) (1) Turn on your Mac, then immediately press and hold Command-S to start up in single user mode. (2) You can now enter UNIX commands. When...

1st) try the old screen (if it still works) and see if the touch function is normal. 2nd) If it works normally, install the new iFixit screen and see if the touch is still finicky. If it still has issues, you should order a new screen. 3) If after your repair neither screen works (the old one or the replacement), then there may be something stuck in the connector (ie. adhesive, dust) or possibly a damaged prong, or worse, a damaged board. In that case, a new screen isn’t going to help you. Best of luck! Let us know what the result is!

I have plenty of replacement crowns from buying in bulk, but I don’t need them. I would be happy to send one for free in exchange for a referral to where I could sell them!

Is there any chance of a faulty closed-lid sensor? I recently had my MacBook on top of another one, and the magnets in the lower laptop triggered the sensor on the upper laptop, making it think the lid was closed. Of course, nothing you do will get the screen to wake when the laptop thinks the screen is shut. If you have some sort of magnetic influence, maybe the fix could be as simple as moving your laptop to a new location. If not, maybe your sensor has gone bad, and is constantly thinking the lid is closed even though it’s not. You could try using an external monitor, keyboard, mouse, and trying it all while plugged in. This will bypass the sleep sensor on the lid.

Do you by any chance have the laptop on a stack of MacBooks? Just this week I had this same problem (boots halfway and then goes to sleep before showing login screen) and found out that it’s due to the magnets on the laptop beneath. Those magnets trigger the sensor on the upper laptop, making it think the lid is closed. Of course, nothing you do will get the screen to wake when the laptop thinks the screen is shut. Solution: take the laptop off the stack! Worked like a charm for me, let me know if it works for you!

Battery replacements usually come with barely any charge in them, so if you had it for very long before doing the repair (as opposed to fixing it the same day you got it in the mail) you might not be able to rule out the charge port flex cable. If you are able to test the battery to make sure it's above 3.7 volts, then kudos to @gigabit87898 for the suggestion. However, if you can't, then you'll want to start with replacing the lightning port flex. Because this is one of the tougher repairs on the iPhone, you might want to test it first by following the following steps: 1. Before opening the phone, or doing anything else after you have the replacement part, plug in a lightning cord to the replacement part. (the other side shouldn't be plugged in to anything. 2. Open the phone, and remove the shield covering the battery and lightning connectors. 3. Pry the two connectors (starting with the battery, followed by the lighting). 4. Peel the lightning cable downward gently until it can freely bend leftward out...

The cables are one of the most sensitive parts of the repair, but in my experience the edges of the LCD (especially the top edge) are very fragile. If you put any pressure whatsoever on them (even while the metal heat shield is on) you can do irreversible damage to the LCD or the digitizer, or both! So in summary: while the cable might be bad, you could have done something to break the digitizer during the repair. 1. I would try putting the old screen back on to make sure it's not the board. 2. Try the new screen on a different phone (if you can). If the old screen works, then the new one is broken. If the new screen works on the other phone, your phone is probably broken, especially if the old screen doesn't work on it either, and definitely if the old screen works on the new phone.

Try turning on the computer while connected to an external display. Some Apple computers will not turn on all the way if they do not detect a functional LCD attached to the computer. If the built-in display is non-functional, an external display should do the trick.

In my experience, if you have a non-apple home button then you shouldn't upgrade. I've attempted to do so and ended up with an iTunes error -59 (I believe) that I couldn't get to go away no matter what I tried, including updating without any home button. However, I have upgraded a hundred phones with everything from battery, to screen, to charge port replacements that worked just fine. Just stay away from replacing the home button at any cost.

Solo tiene que cambiar el sensor, lo cual tiene el sensor de proximidad (que apaga la pantalla durante una llamada), la cámara, y el micrófono para Siri y dictado de voz.

No, they are different and non-compatible.

No, the parts are different. If you look at images of the two side-by-side you will see that the shapes are very different and would not fit in the same space inside the two phones.

After completing this step, if the replacement piece does not include the adhesive around the camera, the gold mesh adhesive, the clear middle adhesive, and the adhesive near the bottom corner, it is easy to remove and replace on the replacement part. You may also wish to transfer the QR sticker and barcode label for the IMEI onto the new piece.

Michael, you might have been interested to know that the focusing problems you experienced are chronic in the iPhone 6 Plus and Apple has created a repair program. You might have found this page useful if your serial number was eligible. https://www.apple.com/support/iphone6plu...

No. There are no compatible logic boards that I am aware of.

Allen, it's been a while since you did the repair. Have you had any problems with overheating? Or anything else that might be caused by spread vs. vertical line?

True to this picture, the home button can only be removed (and put back in place) through the front of the LCD assembly.

The note about the danger of pressing on the connector incorrectly is very legitimate. Though I find it more practical to use a wide (1.5 cm) case opener tool to press it down all at once. Minimizes risk of bending the connector.

I not recall seeing one. If there is one I would expect it to be part of the casing.

Can the home button not be removed through the back? Does it only come through the front?