はじめに
パワーボタンのクリーニングや、すり減ったボタンカバーを交換するためのパワーボタンの取り出し作業はこのガイドをご利用ください。このガイドはアルミニウム製のボタンカバーを扱っており、メタル製ボタンカバーは対象外ですのでご注意ください。メタル製スイッチを交換するには パワーボタンケーブルガイドをご覧ください。
また、このガイドを使って上部ケーブルブラケットの交換もできます。
必要な工具と部品
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青いハンドルをヒンジ側に引くと、リバースクランのアームを解除します。
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iPhoneの左もしくは右側端に向けてアームをスライドします。
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吸盤カップをiPhoneの下端付近に装着します。前面と背面に1つずつ取り付けます。
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吸盤カップ両側をしっかりと締め合わせると、標的の場所にしっかりと装着させることができます。
I found that the single suction cup from the kit worked very well. It didn’t take that much force to separate the front panel from the phone. I think any suction cup that you are able to get a firm grip on will probably work as well. There isn’t any adhesive holding the front panel in. It just snaps in and out. If you have a cracked screen and no screen protector, it may be hard to get a good suction seal. If that’s the case, someone else here suggested applying clear tape to the front glass to get a good surface for applying the suction cup. In my case, I already had a screen protector that was still intact so the suction cup sealed easily.
WORKED PERFECTLY… easy, no harm at all…. thanks a lot
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リバースクランプをお持ちでない場合は、シングルタイプの吸盤カップを利用してフロントパネルを持ち上げます。
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ホームボタンの真上のスクリーン上に吸盤カップを押し当てます。
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次のプラスネジをバッテリーコネクターブラケットから取り外します。
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2.2 mm ネジー1本
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3.2 mmネジー1本
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フロントパネルアセンブリーのケーブルブラケットから次のプラスネジを5本取り外します。
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1.2 mmネジー3本
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1.7 mmネジー1本
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3.1 mm ネジー1本
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本体側面のSIMカードトレイの小さな穴に、SIMカード取り出しツールかペーパークリップを挿入します。
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奥までぐっと押し込み、SIMトレイを開いて取り出します。
Why isn’t this the first step in the process? Seems unnecessarily risky to fumble with popping the SIM in and out when you’ve already opened up the phone.
If you don’t have something small enough to open it, you can use the lever when the screen is off.
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iPhoneからSIMカードトレイのアセンブリを取り出します。
After reassembly phone would not detect SIM Card.
During repair while components were out of phone I used that opportunity to straighten the back case that was bent. While straightening the back case I bent the thin edge of the back case by the SIM Card slot. SIM Card would click into place and seemed to make a good connection but the phone would not detect the SIM Card. After really straightening the back case by the SIM Card slot almost back to cherry the phone would now detect the SIM Card. The tray has to fit really flush with the case.
My flashlight has stopped working altogether. It was intermittent for a while. I believe them to be original. When I try to use the flash on my camera app, it flashes weakly but not enough do really help. Any chance the flex went bad or is there a logic board issue? My other two iphones with the same apps and the same updates are not having any problems.
Bonjour j'ai un iphone 6 problème réseau
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スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、Lightningコネクターケーブルの接続を外し、スピーカーの邪魔にならない位置に折り曲げます。
How vital is that foam looking piece on top of the antenna cable connector? It popped off when I was lifting.
Same thing happened to me. I hope it's not too vital!
If the foam piece on top comes off (which it probably will), replace with a tiny piece of electrical tape to maintain electrical isolation.
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スパッジャーの先端を使って、ロジックボードのソケットからアンテナケーブルを持ち上げます。
ripped off the foam on top while trying to pry it out. Also careful not to pull the entire logic board while doing this
Ah, isn't that a bugger to get back in place after finished repairs! Be patient! Position and gently press. If no click, reposition and try again... time an time again. Did I say, be patient?
Yes to this. Listen for that satisfying click…
Christa -
I found that this is not the best tool for removing this component.. The connector is round and the the pointed tip of the tool makes it very easy to slip off the connector and do damage to other components. As I was trying to disconnect the connector, the tool slipped and tore the wire out of the connector. The flat end of the spudger seems like it would work better.
Yes, the flat end of the spudger works definitely better.
(I had to do this step to replace the antenna flex cable)
I couldn’t pull this connector at all. Tried tip of spudger, flat end of spudger, my nail (which even got a dent in the process ^^) and finally the tweezers (I know, risky) but the little bastard wouldn’t come off…
I managed to pull out the logic board very carefully and twisted it in the least straining way for the cable to access the flex cable on the back.
In the end everything was fine and the repair worked ok.
Switching this step for this repair can be ok if you are extra carefull with twisting the cable
Found it easiest to go beneath the cable (on the opposite side from what’s shown on the photos) and leverage from there, using tip of spudger.
Seconded. After a while of trying, I decided to do this and it came off instantly.
YESSS thank you so much! this worked great!
What antenna does this cable attach to? I’m trying to determine if this would be the cellular antenna.
I second this… What antenna is this? Main celular radio? BT? so what is the flex antenna for then???
If you just need to look under the logic board to check for corrosion you can skip this step and just maneuver the logic board afterwords (I accidentally did this and it worked just fine and I didnt’ have to worry about putting the wire back in.
I lost the little black foam on top of this connector :(
It was not very well glued, I think I lost it while removing the whole logic board. I put some little piece of insulating tape. It seems everything works after reassembling, so…
i broke this cable. Lol.
until now “no service”. haha
Ripped off the little black foam on top of it.
On reassembly i simply put the foam on top of the connector. The process was working smoothly at first, but the day after tomorrow i have to open my iPhone 6 again because found it in “No Service” state and cannot find wifi :( !!!
I tried to once again assemble signal connector, yet with a full step from assembly to reassembly while cleaned the dust inside.
Thank goodness it worked after all the process. Whew
This morning I woke up with the same issues. No Service and couldn’t find any wifi signal.
And the unwanted thing happened, when trying to pry that small gold cable …… It’s plugged out together with it’s coupling on hte logic board LOL
Now that old iPhone 6 can’t come back to life. Sad
%#*@! I left the antenna cable under the logic board!!! Well, down I go again.. LOL
Did the same. DONT FORGET when the loci board back in to the phone to lift all cable including especially this little antenna one!!
(I got 10 steps further along before I realised I came to this step in the reassemble and realised my mistake).
I totally lucked out reconnecting this. It clicked in immediately lol
math_blows - 返信
Re-assemble: agree most difficult process. Patience required. Used magnifying glass and wore my generic reading glasses. Found that the connector went further up to the right than was required. For what it’s worth: used 2 spudgers - one to push it back towards its cable and the other to push down.
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次のプラスネジをケーブルブラケット上部から取り外します。
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2.9 mm プラスネジー1本
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2.2 mm プラスネジー1本
I reached till this step to replace the antenna cable using the toolkit I ordered with the cable from ifixit shop. But I could not open the orange marked screw in this step and had to roll back the whole thing as I did not want to destroy the screw by applying force. It seems to me the #000 philips screw driver bit I got is poor quality as I had trouble opening the small red screws as well.
Any recommendation for better quality #000 Phillips screw driver?
Put the phone on a solid surface (table or countertop), hold the screwdriver exactly vertical, press it down hard on the screw head, and turn. That’s all it takes! You’re not going to hurt anything by pressing down firmly. Some screws just require a little more force, and using a different screwdriver won’t change anything.
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スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、パワーボタンとフラッシュアセンブリケーブルコネクターをソケットから持ち上げて外します。
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ボリュームコントロールケーブルコネクターをロジックボード上にあるソケットから持ち上げて外します。
I found that when reconnecting the smaller connector, sliding it from the top of the phone towards the battery was the easiest way to get it aligned.
Agree with Colin Lacey above - slide the small connector from the top of the phone towards the battery ( yes, counter-intuitive) and I felt a click and was able to push down and make the connection.
if permenant damaged is caused what should one do next?
what did you do? I think i mess up
The small connector corresponds to the side button that activates or deactivates the sound. In case of not connecting it well, this button will be disabled.
davidlluch - 返信
I have an iPhone 6 model model A 1549
it doesn’t turn on because it got wet
Do you repair this for me?
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次のプラスネジをWi-Fi アンテナから4本取り外します。
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1.5 mm ネジー1本
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1.4 mmネジー1本
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2.1 mmネジー2本
unable to get 1.4mm screw out with included 000 ph driver. Any ideas?
I´m unable to remove all 4 screws with the tools provided
The 1.5 mm screw got stripped. Any ideas?
I can’t get the 1.4 and 1.5 screws out even after reading how to unscrew properly. Worried I am stripping screws.
Try a #0 driver and be patient. Had to push down a bit to ensure connection with the screw but worked for me.
Weil ich sehr schlechten WLAN- und Bluetoothempfang habe, wollte ich die Antenne tauschen. Nachdem ich alles wieder zusammengebaut hatte, wurde der Empfang noch schlechter.
Mir fiel auf, dass sich die Scheibe unter der 1.4 Schraube gelöst hat. Deshalb vermute ich den schlechten Empfang. Kann man diese Verbindungsstelle zur WLAN-Antenne löten?
Para que serve esta peça fixa na placa?
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iPhone本体からWi-Fi アンテナを取り外します。
This isn’t the WiFi antenna - I suspect its for GPS reception. Removing this antenna makes no difference to wiFi or Blue tooth signal strength
Jon Harris - 返信
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基盤ブラケットから1.6 mmのプラスネジを2本取り外します。
I have assembled an iPhone 6 and it seems that everything goes fine except the NFC. The phone does not respond to the POS when using Apple Pay. I think there should be some poor connection between the logic board and NFC antenna. If so, which screws should I scrutinise to fix this problem? Thank you.
These two little screws are in pretty tight.
I could not for the life of me get the screw on the left side out! But with the right hand screw out I was able to proceed and lift the logic board out without removing the bracket.
From my experience - coffee was a great idea the morning I started working on this project, but if caffeine in any way makes your hands shake, reassembly will be difficult! I had to put this part back in place using the tweezers, and then keep the tweezer points in the top right screwhole while I screwed in the left screw, because my screw slipping kept making the part fly off. This helps get the part in place for the 2nd screw to be put in easier.
Aaaaaaand this is where I gave up. These won’t budge no matter what I do :P
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直角型のロジックボードブラケットに留められた次のプラスネジを外します。
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2.6 mm ネジー1本
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1.3 mmネジー1本（iPhoneのサイドフレーム上部に水平に留めれています）
Is there an easy way to remove the 1.3MM screw in here I can't eem to remove it by hand.
I'm having the same problem, did you manage to remove it?
Came off easily enough with the flat side of the spudger
Adam Gal -
I faced it today, You can use a 1.5mm flat head screw driver to remove it. The guide mentions this in step 36 for stand-off screw. Hope iFIX changes the guide to indicate the flat screw driver or remove the step here.
Not sure we're talking about the same screw—this is definitely a Phillips (as shown in the photo), not a standoff. It's usually easiest with a dedicated Phillips driver, as opposed to the interchangeable bit drivers, which are fatter and a little tougher to angle in correctly.
Jeff, you are right, The instructions indicate a flat head screw driver. Since I ordered the kit with the part, it is easy to assume this will be part of it. My revised comment would be to highlight that the kit would not include it if pairing with the antenna cable replacement part order. Regarding the screw, big picture did not show the screw in orange, I mistook it as the one in later step. You are right it seems to be Phillips as shown in second small picture.
I wasn't able to remove horizontal screw, but was able to continue on with the remaining steps with no problems. The logic board slid from below the angled logic board bracket.
I wasn't able to remove the horizontal screw either and moved on with no problems as well. Thanks for the tip!
Also unable to remove the horizontal 1.3mm phillips screw, but it was OK as it didn’t prevent me from proceeding with later steps.
Same for me. Couldn’t get it out, left it in - worked perfectly.
And by the way - thanks sooooo much for the comments guys - helped me a lot through this repair!
Wusels -
Thanks for your comment! I also did what you suggested and it worked perfectly well.
Anja S -
I’m struggling to remove 2.6 mm screw. The head seems to be very worn. It’s the only screw left, holding the board to the case. I tried to unscrew it at different angles, applying pressure. Nothing is working. Any ideas how to remove it?
Stripped screws are a nightmare and there are no guarantees. If it’s only mildly stripped, you can try going up one size on your screwdriver and using a good amount of downward pressure. But if it starts to strip again, stop before you do any more damage. Try some of the additional techniques in the stripped screw guide. Good luck!
This is not just a mechanical bracket, but the upper cellular antenna tuning connection to the top bezel antenna. Thus it needs a good electrical connection, or your cell coverage will be bad.
To elaborate; When reassembling, the 2.6mm screw needs to go in quite tight, since it squeezes a small rise in the “angled logic board bracket” (really a connector between antenna tuner and the top bezel antenna) against a small gold pad on the main logic board.
This electrical connection needs to work, else the dynamic antenna tuning won’t work - which will cause problems in radio band switching (for instance between 3G and 4G, or different 4G bands). A typical indication that you have a problem here is that it can temporarily be “fixed” by squeezing the top of the phone. It’s really a crappy design choice by Apple.
Dormouse -
I also proceeded without removing the 1.3mm screw and continued on with the remaining steps with no problems. Gar Galen (above) was correct - “The logic board slid from below the angled logic board bracket.”
Couldn’t get the 1.3mm screw out but it didn’t stop me
i broke this part, under which name can i find it online?
bowoo king - 返信
Omg that 1.3 mm screw was the bane of my existence upon reassembly
math_blows - 返信
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直角型ロジックボードブラケットを取り外します。
The right side of the bracket may be under some black tape that may need to be removed to allow you to remove the bracket.
Doug Whyte - 返信
Yes, further, It never came out for me. But, I lifted slightly and that was enough for board to slide out. Did not want to force the palstic/rubber part to avoid breaking it.
I discovered this bracket was broken in the middle when i removed it. I continued the tear down and replace the antena. It seens that it did not solve my GPS issue… could this angle bracket be the reason that GPS stopped working? Is this part available to sell?
Tuoa lafay - 返信
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アンテナインターコネクトケーブルをロジックボードに留めている1.2 mm プラスネジを1本外します。
Make sure to tighten these screws well when reassembling so you don't have issues with cellular reception. Had a phone that wouldn't connect to cellular connection after a screen replacement. I tightened the screw and it started working again.
This screw was missing from my phone. Could this be what is causing the bluetooth/GPS/wifi issues?
The Screw and Step´s 34 “antenna interconnect cable” are missing in my phone. Could this be what is causing the bluetooth/GPS/wifi issues?
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スパッジャーの先端を使ってアンテナ用インターコネクトケーブルを持ち上げ、ロジックボードの邪魔にならないように折り曲げます。
Argh — easy to forget on the reassemble and even easier to break! A “do the reverse” of these instructions really isn’t sufficient.
Soo easy to forget, and I still don’t know how to put this back on. I’ve done several housing swaps on newer phones and this is so confusing!
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スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボードに付いているソケットからカメラ用ケーブルコネクターをまっすぐ持ち上げます。
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ロジックボードの邪魔にならない位置にカメラ用ケーブルを折り曲げて固定します。
I found using the pointy end of the spudger was better to use here.
I found the hooked end of a hooked spudger was the only thing that worked for me.
Prying on the side with the pointy end of a pair of tweezers works fine too.
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背面ケースにロジックボードを留めてている次のネジを取り外します。
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1.9 mmプラスネジー2本
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2.3 mmスタンドオフネジー1本
The standoff screw was difficult to remove because a normal phillips head screwdriver is the wrong shape. I had to use a small flat head screwdriver carefully to get it off.
I absolutely can not get this standoff screw off. Searching the web now for "iphone standoff screw" I see that there are specialized screwdrivers for getting this screw off. I wish I had one right at this moment! Anyway, an improvement to these instructions would be to mention this standoff screw upfront, so that one can be prepared with the right screwdriver before starting this job. I'm stuck at this step right now. A small flathead screwdriver just isn't cutting it.
Hello. I used a 1.5 mm flat screwdriver from iFixit Pro Tech Toolkit. It worked easily for me.
Never use the pointy end of the spuger to put back the standoff screw in place. It can break off some plastic in the hole since it’s threaded inside and you will have major problem to remove it. If the standoff scew isn’t tight enough when you put it back on, it’s not a big deal since you will put another screw in its center at the end of the rebuild and you will be able to tighten both screws at that point. Just don’t use the spudger to put it back on. That standoff screw is a poor concept.
Just a side note; I understand the list of tools required for this job includes a “Flathead 3/32” or 2.5 mm Screwdriver,” but wanted to mention that a Wera 2.5 mm diver is too thick (0.4 mm) to do a good job of removing the standoff. With a fair amount of pressure I was able to make it work, but as others have pointed out, I would expect a 1.5 mm flathead driver to have a thinner head (0.23 mm from Wera) and be more suited to the task, barring having an actual standoff driver.
Genius right here. The short, flat part slides right in!
The tool to remove this part does not come in the ifixIt New part Toolkit for this tutorial. That was an issue.
Sorry, it actually does. But it comes inside the new part package, apart from the other tools. I only opened it in the last step.
I used a pair of tweezers, A bit risky, just be careful. Line it up with the grooves and turn slowly
I used screw driver for eyeglasses….
I used screw driver for eyeglasses….
I used the flat side of the Spudger for this and it worked completely fine
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スパッジャーの平面側先端を使ってロジックボードの端にあるバッテリーコネクターをゆっくりと押し上げます。指で十分掴めるほど持ち上がったら止めます。
Where is a safe place to put the logic board one removed?
Where can i buy a motherboard for my iphone 6
Thankyou ifixit..
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ロジックボード端にあるバッテリーコネクターを持ち上げて、背面ケースから外します。
I've been told that the problem with my phone is the logic board. Can any standard logic board be swapped in for a defective one, or are there any additional steps needed to get the phone operational?
If you are following these instructions for the purpose of replacing the commonly failing wifi antenna cable, you will find it on the back of the logic board when you lift it out. You will need to fiddle around a bit to find the right position for the 4 connectors - they are microscopic - and you will hear tiny little clicks when they go in the right places. Check by looking at the board and antenna sideways, to see that they are all in place, before starting reassembly.
good tip, to look at it sideways to confirm seating of connectors.
Christa -
5-6 days from salt water damaged so this process will work so or not and this is my first time so i m afraid…i will go ahead or not?
When re-assembling make sure all the connectors remain above the logic board. Especially the power button and flash assembly connectors shown on Step 26.
When re-assembling make sure all the connectors remain above the logic board. Especially power button and flash connectors shown in Step 26 are tricky.
6 cables to keep above the board when re-inserting: two on top left, one top right, three at the bottom.
Don’t forget the the antenna interconnect cable, also in the top right, should be above the board.
What happened to the 00095-A part? Did it just disappear?
Ryan Scott - 返信
My phone is Iphone6, issues no sound at earpiece, new earpiece same issues, does replacing logic board solve this problem? Do i need to do anything i change my logic board? Like my data.
Hello we need full information of board if we seems some problems like memory problems and wifi problem we need all names of board every accessories
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バッテリーの右端下から第1のバッテリー粘着タブを剥がします。
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粘着タブからの抵抗感が増したと感じたら、バッテリーの左端下あたりでゆっくりと引いていきます。
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粘着タブをバッテリー左端の上方に向けて回すように引っ張っていきます。バッテリーと背面ケースの間からゆっくりとタブが出てきます。タブがiPhoneから完全に出たところで作業を終えます。
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2つの粘着タブを無事に取り出すことができたら次の2つの手順をスキップして手順46から作業を始めてください。
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粘着タブがバッテリーの下で切れてしまい、取り出すことができない場合は、この下に表示されている次のステップをご覧ください。
im so confused, with the whole battery thing, do you use the same battery? or a new on? because the tabs i saw how u had to pull them off. will the battery will work without the glue tabs?
The glue strips are a separate component and can be replaced independently of the battery. Yes, the battery will work without them. However, it’s a good idea to replace your battery anyway. In particular, if the battery is even slightly deformed during removal, it may not be safe to re-use.
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背面ケースからアンテナインターコネクトケーブルを丁寧に取り外します。
Anyone know what the Antenna Interconnect does? I replaced my rear housing with a clear plastic one I ordered from someone off DHGate, and they didn't have the screw mount for that interconnect, so I wasn't able to re-attach it. I couldn't figure out what it does, and the phone seems to work without putting that screw back in. I'm suspicious that bracket must do SOMETHING, right?
Just conjecturing but it has a capacitor on it and must connect a transmitter chip to an antenna. Your phone would work without it but I would expect its range would be reduced.
Doug Whyte - 返信
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パワーボタンブラケットから2.2 mm プラス#00ネジを2本取り外します。
When reassembling, do not make these screws too tight. Check power button for proper movement and clicking before continuing to reassemble the whole %#*@ phone like I did.
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メタル製バーの電源ボタンを掴んで背面ケースから引き抜き、取り外します。
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電源ボタンは接着性ガスケットが付いたケースに留められているので、薄膜を裂かないように注意して引っ張ります。
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デバイスを再組み立てする際は、このインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
デバイスを再組み立てする際は、このインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
89 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:
100%
Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています！ あなたも貢献してみませんか？
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13 件のコメント
Ive recently done a full housing change on my iphone 6 plus to a black one since doing it the power button doesnt work its rock solid i used original power button (space gray) and original flex cable once istalled it just wont press
The only way it works is if i leave the power button screws slightly loose which is a pain becasue the button loosens itself anyone had anything similar or is it the way its been installed ?? All other buttons work correctly mute switch and volume buttons
Hello marcusdean2009 this problem occurs because the new carcass have the power button screw hole a little bit long than the original one. And yes, you will have to let the power button screws slightly loose to make the power button work
My power button is a little bit loose. There's still clicking sound but not same as the other normal button,the button also seems 'into' or 'concave ' compare to normal button.while the power button with long shape also seems just have a clicking sound when I press the middle part of button but not the upper and lower part of button.when I press the upper and lower part,it is soft and without clicking sound and springing feel. I used to replace the flex cable, but it still loose,is it the matter of the quality for the flex cable or the improperly attach of rubber gasket or the scuffed of little metal tip of the power button? Please reply me.
Great job on this guide. What could have been a pain in the butt has been an easy fix/replacement thanks to this guide. Thank you for taking the time to do this. Just plain awesome.
Another great guide. definitely one of the more difficult repairs that I've done but if yours careful, follow the guide, and isolate your screws and parts, it's simple.
I use a deviled egg travel tray to keep my things divided. it's wide and has a lid if you need to stop in the middle of a repair. keep the animal hair and dust out at least.
Hi. Excellent guide!!
Since opening my phone to replace the battery, everything works fine except the power button... it still click, but doesn't do anything. Won't be able to power off or reset the phone, or take screenshots! Is there anything I should check? What could I possibly have broken?
hello guys, i have a problem with the installation of the new circuit of the power button, the power button must have the clip facing up or down? more to me and seemed to have to pay off the frets to its support because even the original had been settled, I hope you can help me.
Best regards
Great guide I was able to fix mi iPhone 6 power button and also I change the housing for a red one
ROSNEY2005 - 返信
thanks a lot realy good job i have non more words thank
@lucisxcaelum No, but there’s a separate guide for the 6s power button.
When reconnecting be VERY careful not to over tighten. The connectors on the screen that these 3.6mm Pentalobe screws lock with are notorious for breaking off
Blair Tryba - 返信
what do i do if ive managed to tighten them too hard and now they wont come off?
kristian686 -
Before opening the phone, I gently warmed it using a buckwheat heating pad. This made removal of the adhesive strips (steps 20 to 24) easy.
Howard Bales - 返信
Exactly what I did as well, the gently warming made the adhesive removal work like a charm. The heat as well help to lift the screen easily, no need for the prying tools for me to open te phone.
For the adhesive removal just pull it slowly to the bottom of the phone and keep in under tension.
On reassembly, turn on the phone after getting all connectors back in place to verify all is working fine before putting all screws back in their spot.
Maarten Vergauwen -
Thanks for the suggestion! I heated up a hot/cold pack, and it worked great.
Linda Chandler -
I put mine back together but mine looks very different than this one. Why is it that when I make a call I cannot hear through the ear piece and have to put it on speaker. Also my screen doesn't go black when my face touches it
Bailey Wilson - 返信
Hey Bailey, which repair were you attempting? Is it possible you have a 6s, or maybe a 6 Plus? You may have better luck with faster troubleshooting if you post in our Answer Forum!
Sam Goldheart -
See its a long time ago you had this issue. You can try to remove the cable from front camera/sensor/earpiece from the motherboard port and gently push it back on. All the problems you relate to is thru the same cable. If this dont solve your problem, check if the earpiece is correctly placed onto the polarity poles, and that the proximity sensor is lying right down into the corresponding socket. If something is blocking the sensor, yeah then the screen wont turn on/off when you put it onto your ear.
Kenneth Hilstan -
I see in the preamble that when you replace your logic board, you would lose touch id functionality, so my question is what if you have the homebutton and thus the fingerprint reader for the logic board replacement, would touch id work?
socratesmens - 返信
The guide for the iPhone6 battery replacement needs to be revised. There are a couple of issues.
1) While the battery cover has two screws, they are different lengths. Since they are very small, it can be hard to see the difference (until one tries to screw the smaller one into the longer hole). The video needs to mention this.
2) The application of the adhesive strip if very different from what is mentioned. Also, there is a “one piece plastic” applique, and it is very unforgiving. The video should show this process in more detail.
I believe the attention to this detail would help folks correctly install their iPhone 6 batteries, and with the recent Apple disclosed battery problem, would continue to show that iFixit is very committed to the end-user.
Gary Long - 返信
I felt a bit silly getting stuck at the end of a long repair, unable to screw one of these last screws back in. What worked was gently pinching the phone above and below the screw, to make sure the screen and back were perfectly aligned.
Matt D - 返信
Apple edits posts on their Communities website that link to this fix page justifying as follows:
“We’ve edited your post because following the procedures at the site you provided may lead to damage to the user’s device.”
What is certain is that following Apple Support’s advice of resetting our phones again and again never works whereas this fix works. Apparently Apple does not want people to know that their hardware fails and can be fixed, because then they would need to explain why they don’t offer neither the fixing service nor the fixing advice by directing us to this website.
Brice - 返信
Before you get started, I suggest you confirm you are replacing the correct camera. If you are thinking of a camera, the front is the side of the device with the main lens. On an iPhone this is actually known as the rear facing camera. Once the phone is disassembled your orientation can be distorted and it is not that hard to fail to realize your are replacing the wrong camera. Doh!
William Miller - 返信
I found it very useful to use a magnet sheet when doing these repairs. I use electrical tape or a sharpie to make a grid, and place each micro screw in a separate box on the grid.
I work directly over the magnet sheet, so that if something drops I have a better chance at not losing it.
If you do lose a screw, go over the work area with a fridge magnet. It will pick it up if it hasn’t popped too far away.
Megan Telliano - 返信
I agree. The Magnetic Project Mat makes your project incredibly easier and keeps your screws/parts organized. Here is the link for anyone interested:
Magnetic Project Mat
Cooper -
or some masking tape with sticky side up and the ends folded underneath on a piece of paper, then you can write notes like
“1.4mm for FOO bracket →”
“7x2.3mm for EMI cover, different one by camera →”
The arrows point as appropriate.
If you drop something, put a flashlight on the floor & shine it across the floor — Turn off ceiling & other lights off to maximize the shadow from the flashlight.
Bass Clef -
These screws are tiny, and the first two are the biggest of the lot. Get a magnifying glass or good reader glasses.
Jennifer Porter - 返信
Which torx is this T?
klemenecanze - 返信
The screws are no torx screws they are Apple Pentalobe screws. You need to buy a Pentalobe screwdriver seen above.
Claes -
I have to use the P2 right?
Aman Singh - 返信
The best advice I can give is not to perform this operation over carpet.
Bruce codding - 返信
I'm an amateur, but I was able to replace the parts almost perfectly while looking at this explanation, thank you very much.
irichin.3.26 - 返信
was fairly easy more nerves than anything, one thing one should have on hand is alcohol just in case its needed. also if one doesn’t get the entire tape strips out, use the alcohol like suggested and lift the battery up. Then can grab the remaining tape strips with tweezers and pull it out. Easy to put back together just make sure the connectors are in. The screws are tiny so take your time. I plugged it in and it started charging and it worked. Great to have my 6 back for a trip as I wanted to use it for the camera, also my game phone so nice to have a battery that lasts. Yes having a flat place to put the parts and put them in separate area so they don’t get mixed up. It took about a hour with hunting for a spare bottle of alcohol.
Greg Wischmeyer - 返信
The first step should always to be to backup your phone as there is always a slim chance that even a simple battery replacement may render the phone inoperable and data on it lost.
Jim - 返信
Please do not forget to remove the SIM-Card tray!!
Steffen Albrecht - 返信
I didn’t need to remove my sim card tray when I did my iPhone 6 battery replacement. Why do you suggest to remove it?
Jim -
You dont need to remove sim card while battery replacement
bertan - 返信
Did mine today, with iFixit battery and iFixit tool kit. Did not need suction cup, to open case, as it had partially sprung open on left, as a result of a badly swollen battery. Supported base and screen with a bookend and rubber bands. This kept these parts at a 90 degree angle, so that screen did not need to be removed. IFixit screwdriver tips were perfect fit. Somewhat difficult to remove battery adhesive strips, but slow and steady got it done, after mild heating with hair dryer. Took about 3 minutes to reposition battery connector…just a wee bit tricky, to position correctly. Was careful to place top of screen in place first, and remainder snapped into place with light pressure, and replaced the 2 pentalobe screws.
Will highly recommend iFixit for such a repair. Repair kit and battery, are first rate. I give this an 11, out of 10.?
Len Drasin - 返信