Additionally, if a blade is present, I install the OSx system on the blade and everything else, apps and home folders on the new SSD. You get the very fast boot off of the blade and the full ssd for all else!

This guide contains many extra steps for what should be a straight forward, simple parts replacement without disturbing more than the display, left hand speaker and removal of 4 logic board screws for play. Nothing else except for the left hand speaker wire & iSight cable from logic board, the lower support bracket and loosening the speaker so as to move it around a bit.

For the ram, I bent a pair of cheap tweezers long ago supplied with these replacement kits to the perfect angle for holding, locating and inserting the ram into the slots under the logic bd after moving each retainer w/spudger and popping out the old. Pay attention to the orientation of the ram when removing/inserting the ram! An automotive mirror is handy along with a small flashlight for closeups. Once the ram is aligned properly substitute your fingers for the tweezers, ease it into the slot, push up & engage! Reinstall screws and all else. I have done this job successfully this way countless times. For a tweezers pic contact me!

I have noticed that replacement assemblies from Ifixit and perhaps other suppliers do not have the smaller covers for the side cables to the left and right of the main display cable installed! Remember to transfer them from your old display to the new or you will have a POF waiting to happen!

I have had the board side connector come right off when removing the antenna cable. Use something like the spudger or a fine screwdriver tip to put some pressure on the board connector to keep it in place during removal of antenna cable.

This connector is extremely fragile! I always apply a very fine flat screwdriver head to the connector on the system board so it does not pull out!

I successfully completed the battery replacement. I too, performed steps 1-18, loosened the logic board screws closest to the battery to provide enough room to remove and replace the battery board. I use sharp plastic prying tools to simultaneously lift the individual battery paks and cut the adhesive quickly. Then a razor blade tool to scape the edge of remaining adhesive and then pull the tape away in one piece. All in all, this job took about an hour to R&R the battery, an hour to drill out a stripped screw locked by the swelling on my drill press and an hour to R & R the bottom cover and other odds and ends. The battery was incredibly swollen, almost ½”. Interesting to read here of similar battery conditions for many reporting in and wonder whats up with this. I recently replaced the battery on my late 2013 15” macbook pro. The battery was 6 years old, no signs of expansion. I’ve replaced many other failing mac batteries over the years that had not swelled up either.

I was able to reinsert the cable easily a number of times with the nice Ifixit angled tweezers as the ziff connectors tiny latch came off! I ended up using a bit of Pliobond 25, contact cement to mke sure the data cable doesn’t move. A future repair will just pull off or at most need an xacato blade knife to slit the rubbery cement. Ross

I am doing a battery replacement for a client on this model. The battery has swollen more than I have ever seen before on a Mac! Roughly a ½” higher, once cover removed. Cover was so tight that one screw stripped and had to drill out one screw after trying everything else! Fortunately, I’m an exmechanic/machinist and I own a full size drill press! None of the screw extraction tools sold by ifixit worked or were applicable until I finally got the cover off. Then the small screw pliers from Japan were easier to use than anything else I own. My tools are mostly for larger nuts, bolts and screw extraction. Possibly a mini hammer driver screwdriver would work if one could be made small enough for tiny screws! Ross

After readying all, trying Josh’s tip with no joy, I found that two nice sized fingernails made this easy x 2! Just push on each little indent simultaneously.

I’m doing 2 early 2015 13” macbook pro’s right now simultaneously and both have same size torx for all 5 screws. Upgrading logic board in one and putting its old logic board in dead mac.

BTW, I’m a double EE, been doing this a long time and wanted to mention that i use only high quality German made tools for my torx and other drivers. I have found repeatedly, that the cheap tools that are given away in kits, wear out fast, sometimes after one use and lead to issues with fasteners. My drivers are made by WIHA. They are expensive but well worth it if you plan on doing this more than once or even once!