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修理を始めるには

修理する権利

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はじめに

iPad Airのダメージが入ったり機能しなくなったLCDを交換します。

  1. 電子レンジに付着している汚れがiOpenerに付いてしまうことがあるので、使用前に電子レンジの底をきれいに拭き取ってください。 iOpenerを電子レンジ中央に置きます。
    • 電子レンジに付着している汚れがiOpenerに付いてしまうことがあるので、使用前に電子レンジの底をきれいに拭き取ってください。

    • iOpenerを電子レンジ中央に置きます。

    • 回転型の電子レンジ:iOpenerが電子レンジのターンテーブルで回転しているか確認してください。iOpenerが作動中に留まってしまうと、熱しすぎや焦げてしまいます。

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - 返信

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - 返信

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - 返信

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - 返信

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - 返信

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - 返信

    Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.

    Esmond Pitt - 返信

    My microwave just died, can i heat it with boiled water?

    Alex COLOMBANI - 返信

    Taping as shown is impractical when using hair dryer method—tape simply comes off in the heat and gets in way of getting out the shards on the sides. If the thing wasn’t shattered, then taping unnecessary.

    B. A. Computer Services - 返信

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - 返信

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - 返信

    The “Galaxy S8 Replacement Battery” that you are selling with the kit is the wrong battery, the one that you are selling is a 3000mAh (which is the wrong amperage) as the OEM Samsung Galaxy S8 battery is “Model #: EB-BG892ABA / 4000mAh / Normal Voltage: 3.85V / Charge Voltage: 4.4V / A/S: 1588-3366 4000mAh 15.0Wh

    stevengenat - 返信

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - 返信

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - 返信

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - 返信

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - 返信

    I’ve tried for 2 days and cannot get this to work. I should have just taken it to my local iphone fixit shop. This is a frustrating purchase to say the least.

    jeffrey hill - 返信

    Step 1 should be: now that you have looked over the tools of this repair kit, take your ipad to the nearest repair store and let them handle it. Sure you will waste about $65 by purchasing this kit and the cost of the repair but you will not tear your ipad up and you will have at least 2 days of your life that you can spend time with your family.

    jeffrey hill - 返信

    Just replaced the battery in my iPad mini LTE. Followed the Ifix step by step instructions and they worked very well. The only thing i would change is step 42. You do not have to lift the LCD connector from the logic board. So don’t. It’s an unnecessary step. Other then that all was good. It took me about 2 1/2 hours from start to finish but I took my time and I recommend you take your time also. Very exciting too finish doing it and see it come to life afterwards. Tested everything and everything still works

    Anybody want to buy my iFix battery replacement tool kit only used once cheap?

    kaplang - 返信

    i opener sucks! it’s incapable of heating factory glue enough to take a sealed phone apart and caused my backglass to shatter. i removed it the rest of the way with a soldering iron!

    Elijah Marvin - 返信

    You should, at least, mention which wattage is used for the 30 seconds heating - 750 isn’t enough, obviously. Display shatterered . Thanks.

    dr_baeschtlr - 返信

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - 返信

  2. iOpenerを30秒温めます。
    • iOpenerを30秒温めます。

    • 修理作業中はiOpenerが冷めてしまいますので、使用毎に電子レンジに30秒入れて温めてからご利用ください。

    • 作業中、iOpenerを温めすぎないようにご注意ください。温めすぎるとiOpenerを破裂させてしまうことがあります。

    • 膨らんでいる状態のiOpenerは絶対に触らないでください。

    • 適切に温められたiOpenerは約10分間、温かい状態を保ちます。

    May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

    yamayhuang - 返信

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - 返信

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - 返信

    I don't own a microwave.

    mdanihy - 返信

    Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

    Jon - 返信

    I don't have a microwave???

    Joe Blow - 返信

    30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

    Sam Stieg - 返信

    can i use just ordinary microwave???

    juneseok kwon - 返信

    If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

    Mohideen Rifay - 返信

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - 返信

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - 返信

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - 返信

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - 返信

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - 返信

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - 返信

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - 返信

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - 返信

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - 返信

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - 返信

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - 返信

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Rapp -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - 返信

  3. 電子レンジからiOpenerを取り出します。iOpenerの中央は熱くなっているため、両端の平面になっている部分を持ってください。
    • 電子レンジからiOpenerを取り出します。iOpenerの中央は熱くなっているため、両端の平面になっている部分を持ってください。

    • iOpenerは大変熱くなっていることがあります。必要であれば、オーブン用のミトンカバーをご利用ください。

    Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

    Me berg - 返信

    Can you use an oven instead?

    Rafael -

    Yes, as does a heat gun.

    anonymous 4602 - 返信

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - 返信

    microwave on WHAT WATTAGE ??? 100 W OR 1600 W ??? NOT THE SAME

    Ivor Pocrnja - 返信

    This was not easy. I finally got a pick under the glass of my moto x4 phone after placing my phone on my kitchen hot plate and letting the hot plate go up to about 160F—measuring with a candy thermometer. I was scared of it(either the phone or the iopener) getting too hot—I checked in with another online video and saw they used a 100C heat gun for 2 min on the left side: When I figured that was 212F I got braver with heating the phone.—My screen and display were already broken. I can’t say exactly how long the phone was on the hot plate at 150-160 because the hotplate annoyingly goes on and off not sustaining a stable temperatureprobably a few

    Nahariyah Mosenkis - 返信

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - 返信

  4. ディスプレイガラスにひびが入ってしまった場合、割れてしまった部分が広がらないようにガラス表面上にクリアテープを貼るなどして、怪我がないようご注意ください。 iPadディスプレイ上にクリアタイプのテープを何重にも貼り、全体を覆います。 これはディスプレイをこじ開けて引き上げた際に、ガラスの破片が飛び散るのを防ぐことができます。
    • ディスプレイガラスにひびが入ってしまった場合、割れてしまった部分が広がらないようにガラス表面上にクリアテープを貼るなどして、怪我がないようご注意ください。

    • iPadディスプレイ上にクリアタイプのテープを何重にも貼り、全体を覆います。

    • これはディスプレイをこじ開けて引き上げた際に、ガラスの破片が飛び散るのを防ぐことができます。

    • ここに書かれている手順にできるだけ従ってください。しかしながら、ガラスが一旦割れてしまうと、作業を続けていくにつれてひびが広がってしまう可能性があります。この場合、ガラスを取り出すためにはメタル製工具を使用する必要があります。

    • 目を保護するために保護メガネを装着してください。また液晶ディスプレイスクリーンにダメージを与えないようにご注意ください。

    If you add clear packaging tape, it will create bubbles and the suction cup will become inefficient. To me it was impossible to remove the glass with the suction cup. Since the glass was very cracked, I had to resort to some tweaking with strong tape and pull the this off.

    jfmartin67 - 返信

    If your screen is significantly cracked to the left edge, abandon this entire setup, prepare yourself for a 5-6 hour repair, expect a lot of patience, a lot of cursing and some good old American ingenuity. The suction cup and picks will not work. You have to carefully crack the glass yourself (w/out damaging the panel underneath and carefully pull it apart from the inside to the outside edges. Use a hairdryer to soften the glue under the cracked panel along the edges. Then use an exacto-knife to separate the pieces of the glued panel from the frame body, all the way around the device. Watch out for the home button ribbon connector when using the exacto-knife. There will be glue residue left over, carefully apply some goo-gone to a small area of a paper towel and wipe gently around the frame body to loosen the glue. Then use the plastic spudger tool to scrape off the excess glue.

    The iPad repair is VERY difficult. If you are a working adult, hire a pro. This is not for the faint of heart.

    aaroncope - 返信

    The hairdryer option was way faster and easier than the iOpener. Be VERY careful not to damage the LCD- one small mistake will cost you an extra $100!

    Mike Martin -

    but I’m not American

    Andrew Williams -

    If your digitizer is shattered, the tape will help, but you’re going to need extra picks. Or a razor blade. See below.

    Blair Miller - 返信

    Friendly observation that the image on this step is actually of an older ipad model as the side bezels are far too big. I don't know if that matters to anybody but a noob might see it and think this manual doesn't apply to them. : )

    notalawyer - 返信

    I had the same experience. My glass was cracked all the way to the left side and the suction cup would not pull the glass up. The packaging tape also didn't help. The heat caused it to lift. I finally abandoned the tape, used a heat gun aimed very carefully at each broken piece of the screen. The picks did work with patience, but I just pulled off each broken part of the glass. I also found that pulling up on one broken part while heating in front of me would let the next piece pull up. I continued heating and breaking all the way around. Do the right side last. Took about 1 hour to get it off, and another hour to clean the old glue off the frame. BTW thanks to this web site and all the comments! No way I would have done this without all the help here! I am now clean and waiting for my new digitizer. I couldn't free the battery (below), so I left it powered up, and verified it till worked before throwing away the old glass. Vince

    Vince Asbridge - 返信

    Taping with package tape doesn't work. You'll need a very large piece of tape if you go this route.

    Travis Dixon - 返信

    Just finished successful repair. I would add this: most folks will be here because of cracked screen. This is not easy; believe the 'complex' rating on this repair. I put tape on my screen because it was badly cracked. This made the suction cup useless, because it just sucked the tape off the scree.n. I used the razor blade technique which worked great, it should be used in the demo, and a good blade should be in the kit.

    dale kingsbury - 返信

  5. 温めたiOpenerをiPadのホームボタンアセンブリの左側サイドに当たるように置きます。 iOpenerを約1分間置き、ガラスの下に付けられた接着剤を柔らかくします。
    • 温めたiOpenerをiPadのホームボタンアセンブリの左側サイドに当たるように置きます。

    • iOpenerを約1分間置き、ガラスの下に付けられた接着剤を柔らかくします。

    The iOpener doesn't work because the heat isn't strong enough. I used a hair dryer which proved to be much more efficient.

    jfmartin67 - 返信

    The iOpener didnt work for me either. seems like it gets hot enough but it must not. I spent 30 min with the iOpener, then tried a hair dryer.

    kinchma - 返信

    “At least a minute.” Bullshit. Get the iOpener good and hot, place it on the area you’re going to work on clear side down, and cover it with a towel. Walk away for 2 minutes. Make yourself a drink — you’ll need steady hands later.

    Blair Miller - 返信

    I've done this with an iOpener and at least in my case, it worked fine. You may have to modify the heating instructions though, since not all microwaves are created equal.

    Jeff Suovanen - 返信

    ii i just did this and it took a while but i figured it out it is true this thing doesnt get hot enough BUT heat it 2 times and then the 3rd time when u place it on the ipad put the ipad box on top and then maybe a second ipad on top of the box so it kinda smashes i down but not too much for it to break and then wait for it to turn warm THEN use the succion THEN the gap appears. the glue is super strong on the ipads so yea it will take some time lol

    Joel Tyson - 返信

    Doesn't work. Perhaps include more copy on exactly how to do it?

    Travis Dixon - 返信

    The iOpener does not work. It simply it is not hard enough to soften the glue. The heat hair dryer method does not work either.

    Javier Lozada - 返信

    The goal is simply to weaken the glue enough that you can use your suction cup to open up a tiny gap under the glass, so you can insert an opening pick and slice through the adhesive. It doesn't actually take all that much heat; the picks will do most of the work once you get them in there. iOpeners, hair dryers, heat guns all work fine in my experience—the iOpener is just a bit more foolproof because it won't get hot enough to cook the display panel underneath.

    Jeff Suovanen - 返信

    I used iron..surprise!! yeah pretty fast tho…put a layer of fabric (towel in my case) ontop, along the edge of screen and start ironing..

    :-)

    carvelera - 返信

    If using a hair dryer or heat gun make sure it is not too high heat. My heat gun has two settings, one 750 degree and an 1100. After using it on high I discolored the digitizer and warped the LCD slightly (only shows on pure white backgrounds). Low worked for the rest of the repair just fine. Also using a razor blade or something besides the pick works nice for the initial pry. Once you have a gap big enough, insert the pic and you’re all set.

    Robert - 返信

    I don’t have an iOpener, my heat gun wasn’t handy. The last time I did something like this it was a 90-100 degree day, so I just put it out in the sun for a while, and it worked great. This time it’s fall, so I used a 420W halogen Light that I have for photography. (A standard heat lamp would probably work too, but might take longer.) I held it close to the light until it felt hot to the touch, just a couple minutes, then I left is sitting about 16” below the light for 5-10 minutes to sink in and warm uniformly. It worked great.

    For me, steps 8-31 were basically one step "Carefully pry off the digitizer glass with the plastic tools" took all of 30 seconds.

    Seth Childers - 返信

    Although very hard this does work. The first time opening the ipad after buying it 8+ years ago it took about 3 times of heating the iopener. It did require an amount of pressure I did not expect but it did come open as instructed. I did add a towel and apply pressure to the iopener to make sure the heat transferred.

    hmcarbajal - 返信

    The iOpener didn’t work for me at all, zero, it literally did nothing. I resorted to my heat gun on low and yeah you need to be super careful, but once I started the adhesive came off pretty easy.

    David Yutzy - 返信

  6. iPadは外側から見るとしっかりとした作りに見えますが、フロントガラスの下には壊れやすいコンポーネントが存在しています。これらにダメージを与えないためには、各手順で指定されたエリア以外は温めたりこじ開けたりしないでください。 この手順を進んでいく中で、次のエリアはこじ開けたり、接触しないように特にご注意ください。 正面カメラ
    • iPadは外側から見るとしっかりとした作りに見えますが、フロントガラスの下には壊れやすいコンポーネントが存在しています。これらにダメージを与えないためには、各手順で指定されたエリア以外は温めたりこじ開けたりしないでください。

    • この手順を進んでいく中で、次のエリアはこじ開けたり、接触しないように特にご注意ください。

    • 正面カメラ

    • アンテナ

    • ディスプレイケーブル

    Don't assume anything!! I thought I was pulling on the screen connector and I was pulling on an antenna component instead. Didn't ruin its connection range but I sure remember doing it and now my iPad has a little internal flaw only I'm aware of.

    Travis Dixon - 返信

    Correct me if I’m wrong but the LTE version apparently has 2 antennas on each side of the front-facing camera and it’s not shown on this post to avoid prying. I just scratched one of them following these instructions.

    Pacman - 返信

  7. 温めた側の真ん中から少し上辺りに、吸盤カップを取り付けます。 しっかりと吸盤がスクリーンに装着されるにはカップがスクリーン上に完全に平らに付いているか確認してください。 iPadを片手で押さえながら、背面ケースをフロントパネルのガラスから離すために吸盤カップを上部に向けて引っ張りあげます。
    • 温めた側の真ん中から少し上辺りに、吸盤カップを取り付けます。

    • しっかりと吸盤がスクリーンに装着されるにはカップがスクリーン上に完全に平らに付いているか確認してください。

    • iPadを片手で押さえながら、背面ケースをフロントパネルのガラスから離すために吸盤カップを上部に向けて引っ張りあげます。

    • iPadのスクリーンの破損がひどい場合は、透明なパッキングテープで表面を覆うと、吸盤がうまく接着します。 または、強力なテープ(ダクトテープなど)を使用して、ハンドルに折りたたんでください。

    In this picture above, the glass isn't cracked at all so it helps the suction cup to be effective as it is hermetic. With cracked display, it won't work.

    jfmartin67 - 返信

    Suction cup would not work for me. No amount of heating with iOpener or hair dryer would allow even the slightest gap to form. I ended up looking at some YouTube videos and used a razor blade. I put the razor blade perpendicular to the top glass, right at the edge of the glass and pushed down until the blade went down 1/4". Then heated some more and pried up the glass enough to put in an opening pick. I spent a lot of time working with the suction cup. Glue was just too strong.

    kinchma - 返信

    It's funny that iFixit changed the image they used. Even they themselves realized how stupid it was to try a suction cup on taped up surface. C'mon guys! You should at least make foot notes for your readers and let them know what to do if the glass is already shattered. It's a slow methodical process that involves working with a iOpener type tool. I personally have one that looks like a prison shank (lol)

    Scott S - 返信

    Not sure what you are referring to there—I see no evidence in the document history of the photos having been changed. Suction cup + packing tape can work, but it depends how badly the glass is broken and the quality of the tape. Sometimes it takes a couple attempts. You can also skip the suction cup and try using tape alone to pull on the panel, if your tape is sticky enough. There are no guarantees though, which is why we have the disclaimer right in Step 4 that the procedure can be pretty fussy if you're working with a shattered panel. Depending on where it's broken and how badly, you're going to have to improvise.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Jeff, the change is evident from image 4, where all the surface is taped up. In this picture you show a clean not broken surface and yes, the suction cup works...

    Simone Gabbriellini -

    Ah, I see what you're saying! I can understand why you guys would assume that, but in reality the entire guide was originally photographed using an intact panel. We later added a step showing how to protect yourself if you have a shattered panel (with photos to go along with, obviously). I'm afraid it wouldn't be practical to re-shoot the entire guide every time we make a small change like that.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    The suction cup is useless if your glass is shattered. Use a new, sharp razor blade, and insert it vertically between the edge of the glass and the metal back of the iPad. Don’t worry about pressing too hard — there’s a lip that stops the blade from going in too far and damaging anything. You’ll probably have to do this several times, but eventually the blade will “bite” into the edge of the glass well enough for you to pry it up. Insert a pick underneath the razor, then remove the razor and continue as directed.

    Blair Miller - 返信

    After having to read several comments on this screen removal and the clear packing tape, I too have to agree that the tape method does not work well at all if your screen is already shattered. I combined several methods, with lots of patience to remove the screen on my iPad Air 2. What I found it very helpful was the heat gun used for paint removal. The heat gun generates a lot of concentrated heat at lower air velocity, unlike generic hair dryer, so you must be very careful not to ruin the electronics, and risk burning your hands and anything around it. My heat gun that I purchased from Home Depot had a nozzle to direct and focus the heat on a small area. That was helpful in working small area at a time. This method work thoroughly well.

    Taiji Saotome - 返信

    It would work if you leave iopener in microwave for 1 minute.

    Don’t trust the instruction from ifixit.

    you can put iopener in microwave for 1 minute without any harm.

    Note. you have to make sure that it is in cold position before you put it into microwave.

    phongsiri nirachornkul - 返信

    Suction cup didn’t work for me either, went the razor blade route (using an exacto knife blade) with very minimal damage to the aluminum shell. Be warned, if your screen has cracked along the edge (as it almost 100% certainly has if you’re reading this guide), the screen will continue to shatter and splinter as you make your way around the edge. That’s when having the screen taped up well will be to your advantage. There’s also a good chance you’ll have to re-insert the razor blade on the other side of a fracture and start the lifting process again, but keep going, being sure to avoid the points called out in this guide and you should be fine.

    Also, do not apply the suction cup to an area of the screen with cracks and no tape. If you’re near the edge you run the risk of brutally shattering that area of the glass if the glass gives before the suction cup.

    Micah Sledge - 返信

    In order to get this to work for me I had to heat the IOpener to over 104 C - I needed to get the screen over 40 C before the adhesive would loosen.

    Also I had to put the ipad on a towel - the granite countertop it was on was sucking the heat out too fast.

    Jack Williams - 返信

    This step was brutal on my nerves - read about too many people ruining their iOpener and I don’t have a heat gun. I had to keep heating the iOpener incrementally hoping I wouldn’t pop it. … but if you’re patient, persistent, and cautious, you can definitely tell when you’re seeing separation. The iOpener ended up being WAY hotter than 30 seconds was getting me - borderline scorching my hands.

    William Thompson - 返信

    Could not loosen the adhesive using the iOpener. Had to use hair dryer.

    Erwin yi - 返信

    As the others noted, the suction cup is useless on a cracked screen, especially if you’ve applied tape (like the instructions say you should). The screen I was working on was busted up pretty bad, I ended up removing it and then going back to remove the edge glass and adhesive. When you have a really busted screen just take your time and use a heat gun or good hot hair dryer and it will eventually come off.

    I used an iSesame tool vs a razor to pry the edge (from a previous replacement project) but again, the iOpener and suction cup are useless.

    David Yutzy - 返信

    Thank you for the comments above. I was using the iOpener unsuccessfully, then turned to the hair dryer and heated it up for over 3 minutes. This gave me the gap I needed to insert the opening pick and begin the process. So, with patience and a hair dryer, I was able to get the digitizer off.

    0812mgr - 返信

  8. 吸盤カップによって引き上げられた際に出来る隙間に開口ピックを差し込みます。 開口ピックをディスプレイ横にある黒い外縁よりも深く差し込まないでください。このピックを深くまで差し込んでしまうと液晶ディスプレイを傷つけてしまうことがあります。 吸盤カップのプラスチック部分の持ち手を引っ張り、吸盤力を緩めてディスプレイアセンブリから外します。
    • 吸盤カップによって引き上げられた際に出来る隙間に開口ピックを差し込みます。

    • 開口ピックをディスプレイ横にある黒い外縁よりも深く差し込まないでください。このピックを深くまで差し込んでしまうと液晶ディスプレイを傷つけてしまうことがあります。

    • 吸盤カップのプラスチック部分の持ち手を引っ張り、吸盤力を緩めてディスプレイアセンブリから外します。

    I found it much easier to use a single edge razor blade instead of the pick. After getting that inserted, it was easy to slip the pick between the blade and the case. Disclaimer - Razor blades are very sharp and you could easily hurt yourself or your iPad if you use one.

    donprius - 返信

    This is an amazing tip! After trying for 10 minutes to use the pick with no luck, I grabbed a small razor blade and that worked perfectly to get me started!! Thanks!!

    Ashley Garner - 返信

    The suction cup also didn’t work to create a gap - it cracked the screen when i tried to lift (the screen was already cracked). This was after rotating between the iOpener and a microwavable hot pack for food. The iOpener was around 175 degrees, it brought the surface of the iPad to 130. I was finally able to lift the glass using a razor blade and then the picks like donprius. I continued to use the iOpener to loosen the glue around the rest of the iPad but I think a heat gun would have been more efficient.

    Marc Ducret - 返信

    You have to heat the glue really much, or you will, as i did, crack the glass.

    Linus Grüne - 返信

    Best bet is to mark the pick with a sharpie line on how far your maximum limit is so you don’t damage the LCD.

    Jon Snyder - 返信

  9. iOpenerを再び温めて、同じ箇所に置きます。
    • iOpenerを再び温めて、同じ箇所に置きます。

    • 修理作業中、 iOpenerを温めすぎないようにご注意ください。 iOpenerを再度温める際は、少なくとも前の作業から10分ほど待ってから行ってください。

    This says "Always wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener", however the iOpener itself has a warning printed upon it that says wait at least 10 minutes. And that 10 minutes warning is also mentioned in Step 2 above.

    Scott - 返信

    Sorry about that! We fixed the text on this step. The two-minute interval was for an older version of the iOpener—the text printed on your iOpener will have the correct interval, which is indeed ten minutes. It can burst if overheated or reheated too quickly.

    Jeff Suovanen -

  10. 2番目の開口ピックを1番目に差し込んだ開封ピック付近に挿入し、iPadの端に沿って接着剤を剥がしながら下側に動かします。 2番目の開口ピックを1番目に差し込んだ開封ピック付近に挿入し、iPadの端に沿って接着剤を剥がしながら下側に動かします。 2番目の開口ピックを1番目に差し込んだ開封ピック付近に挿入し、iPadの端に沿って接着剤を剥がしながら下側に動かします。
    • 2番目の開口ピックを1番目に差し込んだ開封ピック付近に挿入し、iPadの端に沿って接着剤を剥がしながら下側に動かします。

    You guys really need to show how it's done when your iPad isn't perfect like the one pictured above.. C'mon..

    Scott S - 返信

    This is for BATTERY REPLACEMENT not CRACKED SCREEN REPLACEMENT!!

    Corey Barcus -

    How do you slide the picks when the glass is broken? Even with the glass taped, it pulls away from the tape rather than the housing. I've just further shattered the glass with my attempts.

    chrisweiler - 返信

  11. 続けて接着剤を剥がしながら、開口ピックディスプレイの横から下に向かって動かしていきます。 開口ピックが接着剤に絡まり動かなくなった場合は、ピックをiPadの横に沿って"回転させながら"接着剤を剥がしていきます。 開口ピックが接着剤に絡まり動かなくなった場合は、ピックをiPadの横に沿って"回転させながら"接着剤を剥がしていきます。
    • 続けて接着剤を剥がしながら、開口ピックディスプレイの横から下に向かって動かしていきます。

    • 開口ピックが接着剤に絡まり動かなくなった場合は、ピックをiPadの横に沿って"回転させながら"接着剤を剥がしていきます。

    This gives a false illusion to the difficulty of these repairs when you guys make guides using perfect devices. What about devices with dinged corners? A reader is gonna slap on a new screen and shatter it the second they apply pressure thinking it will fit into a dented corner lol

    Scott S - 返信

  12. 1番最初に差し込んだピックを手に取り、iPadの上部端に向かってスライドして動かします。 フロントガラスを通して開口ピックの先端が見えたら、びっくりしないでください。ーピックを少しだけ外側へ引いてください。ほとんどの場合は問題ありませんが、奥まで差し込みすぎないように注意してください。液晶ディスプレイ上に接着剤が付いてしまった場合、取り除くのが難しいためです。 フロントガラスを通して開口ピックの先端が見えたら、びっくりしないでください。ーピックを少しだけ外側へ引いてください。ほとんどの場合は問題ありませんが、奥まで差し込みすぎないように注意してください。液晶ディスプレイ上に接着剤が付いてしまった場合、取り除くのが難しいためです。
    • 1番最初に差し込んだピックを手に取り、iPadの上部端に向かってスライドして動かします。

    • フロントガラスを通して開口ピックの先端が見えたら、びっくりしないでください。ーピックを少しだけ外側へ引いてください。ほとんどの場合は問題ありませんが、奥まで差し込みすぎないように注意してください。液晶ディスプレイ上に接着剤が付いてしまった場合、取り除くのが難しいためです。

    I managed to get a couple of fingerprints on the LCD.

    What's the best way to clean 'em off?

    What's the safest way?

    Mike McIntosh - 返信

    What I’ve read, and seems to work, is gentle circular pressure with a very clean, dry microfiber cloth. Lacking that, use a TINY drop of water ON THE CLOTH, not on the LCD. Small amounts of alcohol can be used, in my experience, but only if the above don’t work, and with better results if used in small amounts and applied to the cloth, not the LCD.

    Bonnie Baxter - 返信

    Can confirm. Microfiber with a little isopropyl worked great to clean off any adhesive or fingerprints from mine. Thanks for the tip.

    Robert -

  13. iOpenerを再び温め、iPadの上部端、正面カメラの上に置きます。
    • iOpenerを再び温め、iPadの上部端、正面カメラの上に置きます。

    • 修理作業中、iOpenerを温めすぎないようにご注意ください。前の作業から少なくとも10分間置いて温めてください。

    • 形を自由に変化できるiOpenerをお持ちの場合は、上部左端と上部先端を同時に温めるよう曲げてください。

  14. Nintendo Switch 修理キット

    ゲームを再開するための、早くて簡単な修理キット

    Switch 修理キットページへ

    Nintendo Switch 修理キット

    ゲームを再開するための、早くて簡単な修理キット

    Switch 修理キットページへ
  15. 開口ピックをiPadの左端上部にスライドさせて接着剤を剥がします。 開口ピックをiPadの左端上部にスライドさせて接着剤を剥がします。 開口ピックをiPadの左端上部にスライドさせて接着剤を剥がします。
    • 開口ピックをiPadの左端上部にスライドさせて接着剤を剥がします。

  16. 開口ピックをiPadの上部端に沿ってスライドさせます。カメラの手前で止めます。 3番目の画像はフロントカメラがiPadのどの位置に内蔵されているかを示したものです。 開口ピックを正面カメラ上にスライドしないでください。レンズ上に接着剤を伸ばしてしまうとカメラにダメージを与えてしまいます。次の手順は正面カメラを傷つけないで作業を進めるためのアドバイスを記しています。
    • 開口ピックをiPadの上部端に沿ってスライドさせます。カメラの手前で止めます。

    • 3番目の画像はフロントカメラがiPadのどの位置に内蔵されているかを示したものです。

    • 開口ピックを正面カメラ上にスライドしないでください。レンズ上に接着剤を伸ばしてしまうとカメラにダメージを与えてしまいます。次の手順は正面カメラを傷つけないで作業を進めるためのアドバイスを記しています。

  17. ピックを少し外側に向かって引き出し、上部端に残っているわずかな先端を正面カメラ上部に沿って動かします。 ピックを少し外側に向かって引き出し、上部端に残っているわずかな先端を正面カメラ上部に沿って動かします。 ピックを少し外側に向かって引き出し、上部端に残っているわずかな先端を正面カメラ上部に沿って動かします。
    • ピックを少し外側に向かって引き出し、上部端に残っているわずかな先端を正面カメラ上部に沿って動かします。

  18. 正面カメラを過ぎた位置でiPadの中に開口ピックの先端を残して作業を止めます。 2番目のピックを取り出して、正面カメラの左側に差し込みます。それからiPadの左端に向かって接着剤を剥がしながらスライドします。 2番目のピックを取り出して、正面カメラの左側に差し込みます。それからiPadの左端に向かって接着剤を剥がしながらスライドします。
    • 正面カメラを過ぎた位置でiPadの中に開口ピックの先端を残して作業を止めます。

    • 2番目のピックを取り出して、正面カメラの左側に差し込みます。それからiPadの左端に向かって接着剤を剥がしながらスライドします。

  19. 先ほどの(1番目の)ピックをiPadの奥まで差し込み、正面カメラの右側から角に向かってスライドします。 先ほどの(1番目の)ピックをiPadの奥まで差し込み、正面カメラの右側から角に向かってスライドします。 先ほどの(1番目の)ピックをiPadの奥まで差し込み、正面カメラの右側から角に向かってスライドします。
    • 先ほどの(1番目の)ピックをiPadの奥まで差し込み、正面カメラの右側から角に向かってスライドします。

  20. iPadの角に3本のピックを残したまま、正面パネルの接着剤が再び付着するのを防ぎます。
    • iPadの角に3本のピックを残したまま、正面パネルの接着剤が再び付着するのを防ぎます。

    • iOpenerを再度温め、iPadの残りのサイド端にーボリュームボタンとロックボタンに沿って、これを置きます。

  21. iPadの上部右端周辺に開口ピックをスライドさせて接着剤を剥がします。 このピックを接着剤が再び付着しないよう残し、新しいピックを次の手順で使用します。
    • iPadの上部右端周辺に開口ピックをスライドさせて接着剤を剥がします。

    • このピックを接着剤が再び付着しないよう残し、新しいピックを次の手順で使用します。

  22. 新しい開口ピックを差し込み、これをiPadの右端の真ん中までスライドさせます。動かしながら接着剤を剥がします。 iPadの下部からディスプレイケーブルが装着されています。ここでiPadの下から4.5インチあたりの位置で作業を止めます。 iPadの下部からディスプレイケーブルが装着されています。ここでiPadの下から4.5インチあたりの位置で作業を止めます。
    • 新しい開口ピックを差し込み、これをiPadの右端の真ん中までスライドさせます。動かしながら接着剤を剥がします。

    • iPadの下部からディスプレイケーブルが装着されています。ここでiPadの下から4.5インチあたりの位置で作業を止めます。

    Why there’s such an obsession with not damaging the cables is beyond me. Be careful, so as not to damage what the cables are connected to. But the cables are part of the replacement digitizer, so if you nick or even slice through them (like I did with the one closest to the bottom) don’t worry about it.

    Blair Miller - 返信

    Keep in mind that some people are here to open an intact display to replace internal components! In those cases, keeping the cables un-harmed is quite important ;)

    Sam Goldheart -

    My digitizer WAS ok and I was only replacing the battery I wasn't careful enough when coming around the side with the pics and got a hold of the cable just enough with the pic to pull it off the underside of the panel. The battery replacement went great other than now I have to replace the digitizer. :(

    BE CAREFUL WITH THIS STEP!!!

    Dylan Bouterse - 返信

    And if you are replacing the digitizer, you have to reuse the fingerprint sensor home button. I sliced through mine and now I’ll not have fingerprint sensor. Each home button is matched to the main board and if switched out you will loose that sensor ability.

    David - 返信

    Like others, I damaged my digitizer cable while doing a battery replacement. It would be a good idea to use some blue tape to mark the spots to avoid during the glue slicing procedure.

    donprius - 返信

  23. 開口ピックを挟んだままで、iOpener を再び温めてiPadのホームボタン端の上に置きます。
    • 開口ピックを挟んだままで、iOpener を再び温めてiPadのホームボタン端の上に置きます。

  24. 左側中央に差し込んでいる開口ピックを左側下部の角に向かって、接着剤を剥がしながらスライドしていきます。 左側下部の角でピックを残したまま止めます。これ以上こじ開けないでください。iPadにピックを挟んだままにします。 3番目の画像はiPadの下部分に装着されている2本のアンテナとホームボタンの様子です。
    • 左側中央に差し込んでいる開口ピックを左側下部の角に向かって、接着剤を剥がしながらスライドしていきます。

    • 左側下部の角でピックを残したまま止めます。これ以上こじ開けないでください。iPadにピックを挟んだままにします。

    • 3番目の画像はiPadの下部分に装着されている2本のアンテナとホームボタンの様子です。

    • 次の手順ではこれらのコンポーネントにダメージを与えないために、どこからこじ開ければよいのかを教示しています。iOpenerを温めて、指定された場所をこじ開けてください。

  25. 接着剤が再付着しないように、開口ピックを左側下部の角に挟んだままにします。 新しいピックを手に取り、左側アンテナの上をゆっくりと滑らせます。ホームボタン手前で止めます。 iPadの中央に向けて、外側のエッジのみをピックでスライドさせます。中央から外側に向かってピックを戻さないでください。この方向に動かすとアンテナにダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。
    • 接着剤が再付着しないように、開口ピックを左側下部の角に挟んだままにします。

    • 新しいピックを手に取り、左側アンテナの上をゆっくりと滑らせます。ホームボタン手前で止めます。

    • iPadの中央に向けて、外側のエッジのみをピックでスライドさせます。中央から外側に向かってピックを戻さないでください。この方向に動かすとアンテナにダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。

    • 開口ピックを2回以上スライドする必要がある場合は、左端外側から中央に向かってピックを再挿入して、作業を継続してください。

    • 次の手順に移る前に、ピックを中央付近で挟んだままにします。

  26. 再び新しい開口ピックを手に取り、前回の手順で止めたピックの右側に差し込みます。 ホームボタンと右側のアンテナ上をスライドさせます。接着剤を剥がすため、ピックの先端のみを使って動かします。 ホームボタンと右側のアンテナ上をスライドさせます。接着剤を剥がすため、ピックの先端のみを使って動かします。
    • 再び新しい開口ピックを手に取り、前回の手順で止めたピックの右側に差し込みます。

    • ホームボタンと右側のアンテナ上をスライドさせます。接着剤を剥がすため、ピックの先端のみを使って動かします。

  27. 接着力が弱くなるため、開口ピックを右側下部の端に挿入します。左側に開口ピックをスライドして、ホームボタンの手前で止めます。 左側のアンテナと同様に、外側の端から中央に向かってスライドします。中央から外側に向けて動かすと、アンテナを傷つけてしまうことがあります。 左側のアンテナと同様に、外側の端から中央に向かってスライドします。中央から外側に向けて動かすと、アンテナを傷つけてしまうことがあります。
    • 接着力が弱くなるため、開口ピックを右側下部の端に挿入します。左側に開口ピックをスライドして、ホームボタンの手前で止めます。

    • 左側のアンテナと同様に、外側の端から中央に向かってスライドします。中央から外側に向けて動かすと、アンテナを傷つけてしまうことがあります。

    This step needs a BIG CAVEAT to not insert the pick far enough to damage the home button/touch ID cable, as it is DIRECTLY above where you’re directing people to insert the pick. I just ruined a ribbon cable by following this guide too closely.

    tabormeister - 返信

  28. iOpenerを再び温めて、iPadの音量コントロール側の端に沿って配置します。
    • iOpenerを再び温めて、iPadの音量コントロール側の端に沿って配置します。

  29. この手順では特に慎重に作業を進めてください。時間をかけてゆっくりと、接着剤が温かく柔らかくなっているか確認します。開封ピックを使って接着剤全体を剥がします。必要に応じて、作業を止めて iOpenerを再び温めることも考慮してください。 音量コントロールの反対側の両角にはピックを挟んだままにします。ガラスを持ち上げるように、ピックを少しひねります。ディスプレイケーブルの端に沿って留められた接着剤が剥がれます。
    • この手順では特に慎重に作業を進めてください。時間をかけてゆっくりと、接着剤が温かく柔らかくなっているか確認します。開封ピックを使って接着剤全体を剥がします。必要に応じて、作業を止めて iOpenerを再び温めることも考慮してください。

    • 音量コントロールの反対側の両角にはピックを挟んだままにします。ガラスを持ち上げるように、ピックを少しひねります。ディスプレイケーブルの端に沿って留められた接着剤が剥がれます。

    • かなりの接着力が残っている場合は、ピックをそのままの場所に残して iOpenerを再び温め、問題の箇所に当てます。

    You will end up having to scrape the outter ledge to remove the old screen. I bled and got glass shards everywhere. Good luck!

    Travis Dixon - 返信

  30. ディスプレイケーブルの端に沿って、接着剤をゆっくりと剥がしながら、ディスプレイを上げていきます。 ディスプレイケーブルの端に沿って、接着剤をゆっくりと剥がしながら、ディスプレイを上げていきます。
    • ディスプレイケーブルの端に沿って、接着剤をゆっくりと剥がしながら、ディスプレイを上げていきます。

  31. フロントパネルのガラスを固定したままで、開口ピックを使って最後の接着剤を切り離します。 ディスプレイケーブルにダメージを与えたり、切断しないように作業は十分注意しながら行ってください。 ディスプレイケーブルにダメージを与えたり、切断しないように作業は十分注意しながら行ってください。
    • フロントパネルのガラスを固定したままで、開口ピックを使って最後の接着剤を切り離します。

    • ディスプレイケーブルにダメージを与えたり、切断しないように作業は十分注意しながら行ってください。

    Detailed pictures that better indicate the difference between the remaining adhesive and the two mylar cables (the very cables you are trying to avoid damaging!) would be much appreciated. On my unit the two were VERY hard to distinguish.

    dlcatftwin - 返信

    This step does not need to be performed here. I cut this adhesive once I had removed the lcd and display cables. This makes it much easier to avoid damaging anything. Just prop the glass up on something while you perform steps 31 - 42, then cut remaining adhesive and remove.

    Robert - 返信

  32. 全ての接着剤が外れたら、本を開く状態のようにフロントガラスを開いて作業台上で休めましょう。 再装着の間は、ケースに残っている接着剤の残りをガラスクリーナなどイソプロピルアルコールで綺麗に拭き取ってください。(そしてフロントガラスを再利用する際はこれも綺麗に拭き取ります)プレカットされた接着ストリップとディスプレイ用接着剤の装着方法を参照して、接着剤を交換します。
    • 全ての接着剤が外れたら、本を開く状態のようにフロントガラスを開いて作業台上で休めましょう。

    • 再装着の間は、ケースに残っている接着剤の残りをガラスクリーナなどイソプロピルアルコールで綺麗に拭き取ってください。(そしてフロントガラスを再利用する際はこれも綺麗に拭き取ります)プレカットされた接着ストリップディスプレイ用接着剤の装着方法を参照して、接着剤を交換します。

    • 再組み立て時に、フロントガラスとiPadのフレームの間にフレックスケーブルを挟み込むのは簡単です。 フレックスケーブルに注意し、ゆっくりと折りたたんでフレームの下に押し込みます。 フレックスケーブルの折り目が平らになる程度に押さえ込まれると、修理が不可能になる程度、損傷してしまう可能性があります。

    my replacement digitizer has rigid flex with adhesive tape where the connectors extend. how does this “fold” back inside the frame?

    David - 返信

    Same here. I removed the adhesive tape, but now what?

    Dvi -

    It looks like I have the same or similar question: the “hinge” part of the digitizer cables (the flap portion) looks like it is supposed to tuck into the crevice between the LCD panel and the side of the aluminum body - my replacement (from iFixit) has sticky contact on the upper side of this flap, making me think that its supposed to adhere to the side of the LCD panel, but the instructions do not make this clear - is my assumption correct?

    dlcatftwin - 返信

    Or, does the flap adhere to the underside of the front panel’s right edge?

    dlcatftwin - 返信

    I attempted to put this protrusion underneath the LCD, and it kept coming up above the LCD. As there were no instructions, I put it as best as I could underneath the LCD as I cannot imagine that it folds up against itself?

    Dvi - 返信

    I tried to put it ‘inside’ the case but was not able to - at the end, I just glued it against the front glass.

    I must have done something wrong with the new home-button assembly as the fingerprint sensor does not work anymore - However, I am not going to go through that repair again so passcode it is.

    Michael Berneis - 返信

  33. 液晶ディスプレイのネジを覆っているテープを全て取り出します。 液晶ディスプレイのネジを覆っているテープを全て取り出します。 液晶ディスプレイのネジを覆っているテープを全て取り出します。
    • 液晶ディスプレイのネジを覆っているテープを全て取り出します。

  34. 液晶ディスプレイに留められた次のプラスネジを取り外します。
    • 液晶ディスプレイに留められた次のプラスネジを取り外します。

    • 4.0 mm ネジー3本

    • 4.8 mm ネジー1本

    Use the provided replace screen case's square compartments to place your screws into as you remove them. Really helpful and you likely won't mess up.

    Travis Dixon - 返信

    I tape a stripe of double sided tape on my workbench. You can place the screws on the tape on the location where the screw would be if it was in the screen assembly. In this step, your screws would be in the four corners of the tape stripe, with the longest screw (4,8mm) in the upper left corner. The other screws from the next steps can also be placed on the tape this way.

    Brecht Bocket - 返信

    ! went to Office World bought 4 packs of bluetac stuck them on a sheet of paper to give approximately size and shape of iPad put it in a flat cardboard box

    John Smith - 返信

  35. 液晶ディスプレイをを完全に取り外さないでください。幾つかのケーブルがホームボタン上でiPadに繋がっています。正面カメラの端から持ち上げてください。 スパッジャーの平面側の先端を使って、液晶ディスプレイを指で掴めるぐらいの高さまで押し上げます。 本のページをめくるように、iPadの液晶ディスプレイをひっくり返ます。カメラ付近から持ち上げて、ホームボタン上を軸にひっくり返します。
    • 液晶ディスプレイをを完全に取り外さないでください。幾つかのケーブルがホームボタン上でiPadに繋がっています。正面カメラの端から持ち上げてください。

    • スパッジャーの平面側の先端を使って、液晶ディスプレイを指で掴めるぐらいの高さまで押し上げます。

    • 本のページをめくるように、iPadの液晶ディスプレイをひっくり返ます。カメラ付近から持ち上げて、ホームボタン上を軸にひっくり返します。

    • 液晶ディスプレイケーブルにダメージを与えないように注意しながらディスプレイをひっくり返します。

    • ディスプレイケーブルが作業ができるように、液晶ディスプレイを開いたままにします。

    • 液晶ディスプレイを、柔らかくて防塵機能のついた清潔な表面上に置きます。

    Got a cracked screen from toddler stepping on the iPad. My repair went well, everything worked. Except I scratched the LCD. It seems to scratch easily.

    At this step, be careful when folding over the screen, as it may scratch on the aluminum frame (third picture). When they say “soft lint free surface” that is needed, specifically where the LCD meets the frame. Place a thin cloth like sunglass cleaning cloth over the edge of the frame.

    Cobus de Beer - 返信

    • ロジックボードにバッテリーコネクターを留めている2.3 mm プラスネジを1本外します。

    • ショートのリスクを減らすために、バッテリーブロッカーまたは改造した開口ピックを挿入してバッテリーの接続を外せます。

    • ロジックボードのバッテリーコネクターの下にバッテリーブロッカーを差し込み、作業中、この状態のままにしておきます。

    after inserting the tab between the battery, im having an issue with the battery taking a charge. charging port sees a cord plugged in, but this connection between battery and logic board is gone. any ideas?

    Matt - 返信

    Hi were u able to fix this issue? I accidentally fried out the shield that secured the battery connector..now the ipad wont turn on :(

    Drew -

    Not having the isolation pick, I used 2 thin guitar picks instead, which did the job fine.

    goodcyning - 返信

    I couldn't disconnect the battery connector - I applied some force, nothing happened and I was afraid of applying too much force - so I just left it connected and I was very careful not to short out any terminals with metal tools. I completed the repair without any other issues and the iPad now seems to be working fine.

    Peter Gray - 返信

    A little explanation here would be nice. Also, there wasn't a battery isolation pick in my kit. You should address this.

    dougintexas - 返信

    Mine was missing. Made one with scissors but still didn't do the trick. I just worked with the batteries still plugged in.

    Travis Dixon - 返信

    Couldn’t get the battery terminal disconnected so I continued with repair. I didn’t short anything but now it won’t do anything. It worked before, just a cracked glass to replace. Any solutions?

    Tech-ER - 返信

    Why do you say you didn’t short anything? Your result would seem to suggest otherwise

    John Marx -

    try lifting the board and not blocking the connector. If you block the connector there are pins that could be damaged.

    Bryan Cruse - 返信

  36. ディスプレイケーブルのブラケットから 1.4 mmプラスネジを3本取り出します。
    • ディスプレイケーブルのブラケットから 1.4 mmプラスネジを3本取り出します。

    Be careful when re-installing screws on reassembly. I mistakenly put the longer screw from the battery connector in the outboard hole, and wound up twisting off the lug that is only lightly soldered to the metal below. Still have 2 screws and system seems to work fine.

    Brian Anderson - 返信

  37. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ディスプレイケーブルのブラケットをロジックボードからまっすぐ引き上げます。 ディスプレイケーブルコネクターはブラケットの底面に接着されています。ブラケット下の奥までスパッジャーを押し込まないでください。コネクターにダメージを与えてしまうことになります。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ディスプレイケーブルのブラケットをロジックボードからまっすぐ引き上げます。

    • ディスプレイケーブルコネクターはブラケットの底面に接着されています。ブラケット下の奥までスパッジャーを押し込まないでください。コネクターにダメージを与えてしまうことになります。

    bough my digitizer from ebay and have everything done up to this step. The screwdriver the kit came with said to be a #000 but it stripped the screw on the plate... I have tried rubber bands, tape and paper to no avail...anyone got an idea on how to remove the screw. Also I am currently studying in St. Kitts and they lack some products found in the US.

    originalpaintballpanda2 - 返信

    I'm sure you've moved past this by now, but I've had some success with stripped screws using a comparable, if slightly larger flathead screwdriver. The screwdrivers that come in those kits tend to suck quite a lot... iFixit actually has a guide for stripped screws: ネジ山が潰れたネジを取り出す方法

    goodcyning -

    Does anyone know where I could purchase a replacement display cable bracket?

    gwarren - 返信

    Note:Be rly carefule with unplugin homebutton-connection.

    The plug-connection (Homebutton) is not similar to the plug connections the basic-plugs got.

    The homeputton-plug-connection is sensetiv and cant unplug easly.

    IPad - 返信

  38. 液晶ディスプレイを取り出します。
    • 液晶ディスプレイを取り出します。

    Andddddd continue this iFix folks! It's not a matter of working backwards. Most people must have cracked screens and end up having to rip the screen off and won't have a chance to inspect connections.

    Travis Dixon - 返信

    He is far from complete…..if lcd is being replaced its probably because top screen is busted too. He didn’t show anything about how to remove the cables for that.

    B. A. Computer Services - 返信

終わりに

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

79 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

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Sam Goldheart

メンバー登録日: 2012年10月18日

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can a non retina lcd be placed on a iPad logic board that originally had a retina display, or are the connectors physically different?

jwngt - 返信

The connectors are physically different. Sorry!

Jeff Suovanen -

لدي نفس المشكلة

Nuha - 返信

Front glass of iPad is cracked in several places, iPad is working fine. Will I need to replace anything else besides the front glass screen? Will I need a glue to attach the glass screen to the device?

vicfaust - 返信

If it's just the glass that's cracked and your display works fine, you'll want to follow this guide instead. Our replacement cover glass kits come with the adhesive already installed.

Jeff Suovanen -

That is very easy step by step to change the touch. Just need to take care of wifi antenna area rest of them is easy, many thanks

haris - 返信

I made the change of the LCD and I have no current but as soon as I reconnected the old LCD everything works then I put the new one all is beautiful but as I close it I have nothing more I have to hand the Old for her to work. Have you ever had it?

zelingne - 返信

I have replaced the battery and put all back together but I tried to turn it back on and the LCD lights up but nothing is being displayed at all no battery just lighting what do I do? What's happened? Please help asap

Cindy - 返信

Please Help me

Cindy -

After, is new adhesive needed to put back together?

nial mccallister - 返信

Very nice tuto. Well done. I succeded in openning the front glass with an “Isesamo Tool” (2 in fact) and many mediators. I also use a hairdryer instead of the “Iopener Tool”. It was much more easy to get under the glass with this kind of tool. It’s sharper and Thiner than a mediator. You get along very quickly while the glass is hot.

Oliver - 返信

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