はじめに
このガイドを使用して、Retinaディスプレイ搭載の12インチMacBookに内蔵されたバッテリーを取り外して交換します。iFixitバッテリー交換キットの助けを借りるのが最適です。液体接着剤リムーバーはバッテリーを固定している接着剤を溶解し、バッテリーを簡単に取り外すことができます。
iFixit接着剤リムーバーは可燃性です。 換気の良い場所でこの手順を実行してください。この手順の間は、喫煙したり、火の気のある所で作業しないでください。
安全のため、この手順を開始する前にMacBookのバッテリーを放電してください。 誤って穴を開けてしまうと、充電されたリチウムイオンバッテリは、危険かつ制御できない火災を引き起こす可能性があります。
MacBookのバッテリー接点はロジックボードの下にあります。このガイドでは、バッテリー交換のためにロジックボードを完全に取り外すことをお勧めします。
ロジックボードのネジを取り外して、ボードをわずかに傾けてバッテリーを取り外すことは可能ですが、ロジックボードを取り付けたままで新しいバッテリーを正しく取り付けることは非常に困難です。
注意：バッテリーの接着剤を溶かす溶剤は、特定のプラスチックを損傷および変色させる可能性があります。 溶剤を使う場所に注意してください。
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Macを起動し、ターミナルを開きます。
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以下のコマンドをターミナルにコピー(または正確にタイプ)します。
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00
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[return]キーを押します。パスワードを求められたら、管理者パスワードを入力し、 [return]キーを再度押します。補足: [return]キーは ⏎ や "enter"として印字されている場合もあります。
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03
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下部ケースを固定する以下8本のネジを取り外します。
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2本の1.8 mm P5ペンタローブネジ
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4本の2.9 mm P5ペンタローブネジ
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2本の6.1 mm P5ペンタローブネジ
IMPORTANT. You’re not removing the bottom, yet. This step is solely to separate the panel from its clips, permitting inside access.
The screws go in tangent to the curve of the case. If you aren’t used to handling small hardware try turning the screw counterclockwise while you feel for the hole until you feel it drop, that means the threads have aligned. It takes only light finger torque when they are threaded correctly
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スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、小さなゴールドの”バッテリーの切断”ボタンを長押しします。
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電源LEDが点灯している場合、LEDが消えるまでボタンを長押しして離します。 これには最大10秒かかります。
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LEDが点灯していない場合、5〜10秒後にボタンを離します。 再度、5〜10秒間押し続けてから離します。 最後に、3回目として5〜10秒間押し続けてから離します。
cannot turn on the led after replacing the new screen, even after following the turn on instructions upper…
on reassembly, I had to plug my laptop in to reactivate the LED light
After reassembly I could not restart my MacBook using the power button or after SMC reset (shift-ctrl-option-pwr). I had to connect my MacBook to its charging cable to get the battery LED to re-illuminate. After that it was all normal.
mine doesnt turn on w anything, i forgot to click the buton to disconnect :_/
Same issue as above peeps. Followed ifixit directions verbatim and wasn't getting anything after screwing everything back in. Plugged in original 45W power block and waited, after few minutes battery LED came on and a min. or two after that, was able to get screen to turn on. Hope this helps somebody else.
May I ask how to get screen to turn on. I cannot get it work..
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ピンセットを使用して、トラックパッドケーブルのZIFコネクタを覆っているテープをはがします。
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バッテリーコネクタをロジックボードに固定している2.9 mmのT5トルクスネジを1本取り外します。
From my experience it’s important to carefully press and hold the small button above left of the Battery Discharge label. Use a plastic spudger or finger tip. The illuminated yellow LED to the right will go off. I believe this discharges remaining electricity from logic board protecting it during repair.
* I cannot find any documentation to support this, but I have damaged boards by not including this step.
What is with the all plastic end of this cable that appears to just be glued right on top of its connector?
Does the new one just stick back right on top?
(In this photo it is the bottom side of the cable below the white water indicator sticker)
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追加の予防策として、ロジックボードとバッテリーコネクタの間にバッテリー絶縁ピックを挿入して、バッテリーを物理的に外すことができます。
What happen if you don’t disconnect the battery? I didn’t and I saw smoke coming out when I connected the pad flex cable and the computer still started up
If you don’t disconnect the battery you might accidentally short something on the logic board since power is still running through everything while you’re working on it. You can complete the repair without disconnecting the battery, but you risk accidentally breaking your logic board. It’s much safer to keep the battery disconnected while you’re working.
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USB-Cポートケーブルのブラケットを固定している2本のネジを取り外します。
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1.1mm #00 プラスネジ
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3.5 mm T5トルクネジ
I’m at this point and the 1.1 mm Phillips #00 screw won’t budge and now I fear it could be stripped? Now what???
You could try to cover the tip of your screwdriver with a thin rubber glove to improve the grip on the screw while applying a little more downward force for the initial jolt. That might loosen the screw.
With my iFixit screwdriver kit, these were Philips #000, not #00.
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スパッジャーの平らな端を使って、USB-Cポートケーブルのブラケットをロジックボードからまっすぐ持ち上げて外します。
At re-assembling, when you reconnect this cable, pressing centre of metal plat is extremely important. You should feel tiny click when it connected properly. I encountered unrecognised external HDD and external monitor through USB-C even though charging in/out was OK, i.e failure of data transmission. I needed to re-open the back cover and pressed the metal plate again, then USB-C connection worked properly.
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オーディオジャックボードのリボンケーブルを、ZIFコネクタからまっすぐ引き抜いて取り外します。
Make sure at reassembly that you insert the ribbon cable in to the jack board fully. It seems to take an extra push. The white line should disappear when it is seated properly. I didn’t get it in all the way by a fraction of a mm and had no sound (internal speakers weren’t even recognized). Went back and seated the cable fully and sound was back.
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ピンセットを使って、ディスプレイケーブルコネクタを覆っているテープをはがします
I won’t have my daughter’s MacBook with its banana encrusted USB-C port until she returns home during spring break — just doing some homework before then. But if the case can lie flat after the audio board ZIF cable is detached, why do you need to detach the display cable connector (Steps 19-24)? It seems that you could jump straight to Step 25 to replace the USB-C port and avoid those steps.
Hi John, disconnecting the display cable is not necessary, but is recommended to avoid accidental damage to the cable during the rest of the procedure. If you feel confident in the safety of the cable then you can skip ahead. Good luck with the repair!
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スパッジャーの平らな端をディスプレイケーブルの下に慎重にスライドさせて、下部ケースに固定させている接着剤から離します。
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ディスプレイケーブルをコネクタからまっすぐゆっくりと引き出して取り外します。
I’m pretty sure I understand the instructions here, but I had to think about it a little longer because “… must remain closed when the cable is reinserted during reassembly …” was not clear to me right away. The retaining flap I discovered, is super delicate, and hence my paranoia, so I wanted to point this out in case anyone else felt like me: ''''Is it correct to assume that your instructions could be interpreted as:
“After disconnecting the cable, close the retaining flap for now to avoid damaging it. When reinstalling the cable, flip up the retaining flap once again, realign and slide the cable with gold contacts facing down.”
I bent the USB-C corner of the lower case from a short drop onto laminate flooring, so in I went to shape it so the edge wouldn’t snag or scratch things. I am typing on my MacBook that received the body work.
Thank you for your guidance!
For @seriouslyjohn and anyone else who might be wondering: “the flap must remain closed when the cable is reinserted” means keep it closed. Do not reopen the flap to insert the cable; just insert it carefully while leaving the flap closed. I know it probably runs counter to the procedure you’re used to, but Apple’s documentation is very clear on this, and I have to think it’s for a reason. My advice is to follow the instructions as written and don’t try to reinterpret them ;) Congrats on a successful repair!
Oops! I most definitely did NOT reinsert the cable into a closed connector. We can only wonder why Apple instructed this step to be counter-intuitive. I’ll pay closer attention to any weirdness that may arise, but the MacBook has been traveling and performing as it should; I’m going to avoid reopening the case, as easy as it is, until I have a good reason to do so. Thank you for replying and updating the guide!
I would argue that you should NOT close the retaining flap. I followed the directions to the letter, and when I started up the MacBook, the display did not register since the I wasn’t able to reseed the cable fully without worrying about tearing the cable. I did hear the computer charging and saw that the keyboard lit up, so I knew the MacBook was working besides the display. I looked up another video on Youtube that left the retaining flap open when reinstalling, so I took apart the Macbook again and tried it that way, and IT WORKED! The cable wasn’t fully reseated with the retainer open and I’m not sure if that was my fault or not, but with the retainer flap open, it was easier to see that. My 2 cents. Good luck everyone!
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ピンセットを使って、2つのZIFコネクタ（1つは右スピーカーケーブル用、もう1つはオーディオジャックボードケーブル用）を覆っているテープを剥がします
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ピンセットを使って、最初のアンテナコネクタをソケットからまっすぐ持ち上げて接続を外します。
The supplied tweezer is no good. You need one with grooves as shown in the picture. When re-inserting the antenna connectors, make sure that they are seated properly before pushing down. If you have magnifying equipment, use that to get visual confirmation. I used tactile feedback from my fingers to discern proper alignment. Try not to force it.
I used the tweezers provided by iFixit. I struggled with both connectors and finally managed to disconnect both, but when I came back to reconnect them, I realized that both connectors on the logic board were loose. Long story short, it turns out that my little exciting adventure changing the battery cost me $530 to send it for repair at Apple Care. I am quite good at troubleshooting Mac and used to work for Apple for many years. This one step is more dangerous than it seems, because you can end up like me, without wifi on your mac. Honestly, for those who think they can do it, think twice. You can thank me later…
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コネクタからトラックパッドケーブルを慎重にまっすぐ引き抜き、ロジックボードから接続を外します。
Once the logic board has been replaced, when following these instructions in the reverse order it should be pointed out that the all the flaps are flipped down. A distracted person might try to force in the flat connector before realising that he has to flip up the flap of the new logic board.
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ロジックボードを取り外します。
If you are replacing the logic board once the machine has been rebuild the 2015 model has to have a 5W power adapter plugged into the machine first before the full 29W power supply otherwise there is a risk of damaging the logic board. Once the power is supplied the battery disconnect LED will switch on and once this has occurred you can remove the 5W and supply the machine with the full 29W power adapter.
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スピーカーとロジックボード領域からバッテリーを持ち上げて取り外します。
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ピンセットまたは手袋をはめた指で、接着剤の大きな部品をはがします。
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プラスチックツールで残っている接着剤をこすり落とし、接着剤リムーバーまたはイソプロピルアルコールで下の領域をきれいにします。すべての接着剤がなくなるまで、前後ではなく一方向に拭きます。
I used citrus oil. It’s vegan. Mr Jobs would approve ;) Made it very easy - less than an hour. After removing battery with the method shown in this iFixit, apply oil to remaining adhesive (black stuff included). Wait five minutes. Scrape black stuff away with plastic card etc. Wipe glue residue from edges towards middle (of each cell) with cloth. I used an old face washer. The nap picks up the clumps of dissolved glue residue nicely. Finish with clean cloth and alcohol. Looks like new!
Pete Smith - 返信
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新しいバッテーリを取り付ける前に、適合性と位置合わせを慎重に確認してください
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交換用のバッテリーは、厚いプラスチック製のトップライナーに貼り付けられ、取り付け時に個々のセルを所定の位置に保持するのに役立ちます。バッテリーを取り付けるまで、このライナーを取り外さないでください
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バッテリー底面に接着剤が事前にインストールされている場合、プラスチックライナーを剥がして接着面を露出させます。 バッテリーに接着剤が付いていない場合は、Tesa61395などの薄い両面接着テープを、赤色でマークされた領域の下部ケースに貼り付けます。
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バッテリーを慎重に配置し、所定の位置にセットします。 各バッテリーセルを5〜10秒間しっかりと押して、下部ケースに固定します。 その後、フォーム製パッドと共にプラスチックの上部ライナーを剥がします。
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新しくインストールしたバッテリーをキャリブレーションします。100％まで充電したら、そのままプラグインした状態で2時間充電します。それからプラグを外して通常通り使用してバッテリーを放電します。バッテリー残量の警告サインが出たら、データを保存してラップトップがスリープ状態になるまで使用してください。スリープ状態に入ったら少なくとも5時間放置してから、ラップトップを一気に100％迄充電します。
hola a todos, yo le he cambiado la batería a todos mis Macbook pero el cambio de esta batería fue verdaderamente aterrador, les recomiendo que si está en su posibilidad económica pagar a un agente autorizado o una macstore hagalo, el cambio de mi batería lo realice yo y fue satisfactorio, pero me faltaron muchas herramientas. el Macbook no encendido a la primera destapar revisar volver a cerrar. la batería tiene una pega extremadamente dura y me costo mucho sacarla Suerte
hello to all, I have changed the battery to all my Macbook but the change of this battery was truly terrifying, I recommend that if it is in your financial possibility to pay an authorized agent or a macstore do it, the change of my battery makes it me and it was satisfactory, but I lacked many tools. the Macbook not turned on the first uncover review close again. the battery has an extremely hard tack and it cost me a lot to take it out, luck
To remove the battery, I applied acetone on the edges of the battery. Kept it tilted fir a few minutes and started prying with a credit card. Reapply acetone to the edge of the card, pry again, wait a few minutes and pry again. I thought it would be harder than it was. Removing the battery and all adhesive probably cost 30 minutes work.
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デバイスを再度組み立てるには、この説明書の逆の順番で組み立ててください
デバイスを再度組み立てるには、この説明書の逆の順番で組み立ててください
6 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
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5 件のコメント
Un coñazo vamos :D
When will the battery Start to swell?
Any warning sign for emergency replacement?
Is this Battery compatible with my Macbook 12-inch 2015 Retina?
Absolutely fantastic instructions. Just follow step by step. There will be no surprises. Took about 2-2,5 hours.
Guys! I did it! took me 2.5 hrs. really appreciate the thorough instructions!
Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.
lamajr - 返信
@mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!
Jeff Suovanen -
This did not work when running High Sierra.
Kyle B - 返信
Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.
Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>
Cool_Breeze - 返信
I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.
Brian - 返信
Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(
Nursat b - 返信
BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.
Jason Sherron - 返信
This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?
Patrick Machacek - 返信
Not able to do that with damaged screen
richardjgreen - 返信
Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian
Adrian Vizik - 返信
Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.
Roberto Enrieu - 返信
running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted
result: `AutoBoot %00`
Marek Polák - 返信