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Why is the water not heating up during the washing cycle

The cycle settings vary from 40 degrees Celsius to 65. However, the water is staying cold through the whole cycle. Grease and milk based food not cleaning from dishes properly.

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I'm measuring no voltage being delivered to the heater coil. Heater coil itself reads 13 ohms. I have the connection wire removed and a AC voltmeter attached to the leads. I put it on hot water wash and start the cycle. After it fills it waits and the voltmeter reads about 2 volts instead of the expected 120v. after 5 minutes or some time it moves on to the next part of the cycle. The water is never heated.

I have replaced the thermostat but that did not fix it.

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Hi @aziff ,

What is the make and model number of your dishwasher?

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Curry's dishwasher

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I joined this website for this problem! We have a Bosch S16P6B

We've had different repairmen look at it but it still doesn't wash hot.

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I have a Whirlpool that is driving me nuts. Model WDF310PLAB0. Replaced the Thermostat and the Heating coil (which was not reading continuity) and still no joy...So I figured "In for a penny, in for a pound" and thought the only other thing to do was to replace the Control Unit. STILL not heating, and it is hooked to a hot water inlet. Plus the washing cycle is always 3-plus hours. After $150, I'm about ready to drop back 10 and punt?

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Why is My Dishwasher Not Heating the Water?

You’ll notice a couple of symptoms which make it easy to spot if your dishwasher isn’t heating up the water properly – at the end of a wash program your dishes won’t be clean, and they won’t be dry. Lack of hot water can be caused by a few different reasons and the problem is also dependent on your dishwasher model, and whether it is plumbed into the hot or cold water supply.

Unfortunately there usually isn’t a quick fix to this type of fault and a replacement part will be required. That said there are some causes that you can troubleshoot and repair yourself.

Heating Element

Regardless of whether it’s plumbed into a hot or cold water supply, your dishwasher will have a heating element (visible in the tub) or a flow-through heater (which isn’t exposed) that are used to control the water temperature and aid in the drying process.

Although the heating element is generally a very reliable component of a dishwasher, it can burn out or suffer from an electrical/wiring fault.

If you have a multimeter you can measure the resistance of your heating element which should read somewhere between 15 and 30 ohms. A reading above 30 means the element is faulty and will need to be replaced. If the resistance reading is OK then check the wiring and control board for damage.

A replacement heating element isn’t massively expensive, and if you’re comfortable getting your hands dirty then it’s fairly simple to replace the part with a basic toolset.

Thermostat

The thermostat is the other component that can commonly cause your dishwasher to not heat the water. The job of the thermostat is to regulate the water temperature throughout a wash program. If it’s faulty then the dishwasher won’t “know” when to turn the heating element on and off to keep the water at the required temperature.

Just like the heating element, you can test the thermostat using a multimeter to determine whether or not it is the source of the fault. Luckily it’s a very cheap part if you need to replace it, the only real difficulty is getting access to it as you’ll find it underneath the dishwasher.

Hot or Cold Plumbing?

Whilst almost all dishwashers can operate using the cold water supply and heating water internally, many people connect their dishwasher to the hot water supply if their model allows it, as it can be more energy efficient and inexpensive (especially if you run a cold/no-drying program).

If you have your dishwasher connected to the cold water supply then it’s highly likely that a faulty heating element or thermostat are the cause of the water not heating.

If you’re connecting to hot then it’s worth checking the water supply to check that there is actually an issue with the dishwasher and not elsewhere. Try running the hottest washing program to see if the dishwasher itself is able to heat the water to the required temperature.

As a side note it is worth paying close attention to the operating instructions if you connect your dishwasher to the hot water supply, making sure you don’t exceed the maximum water temperature. Many modern models will also detect if the water entering the machine is already hot and shorten the duration of the wash cycle accordingly, which can result in sub-par cleaning.

Check out the Dishwasher Not Drying wiki as well, as it deals with some related issues.

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I have a kenmore elite dishwasher model 665.12763K311. I've been having similar issues. I put in a new heating element and the thermostat seems to work. I'm wondering is there anyway to check the control board before I buy a new one?

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If you replace the heating element you must run a diagnostic cycle for the dishwasher to reset and give power back to it.

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How is that done on the Kenmore elite? I'm assuming it's a series and combination of buttons to be pressed?

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How do I reset the power to the heating element after the new one is installed

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On many dishwashers there is a bi-metal fuse attached to the bottom of the tub that protects the unit from overheating. That should be the very first (and easiest) thing that you check. Then the heat coil, and then the control panel.

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There are two things that influence the temperature of a dishwasher.

1. Heating element

2. Thermostat

The heating element is a coil which is responsible for turning the water hot that comes in to your dishwasher. While the thermostat controls the temperature of the heating element, how hot you want it to be on each cycle.

Using a multimeter you can check these components for resistance and replacing them is not that expensive too.

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HI i have a Beko DFN2000x dishwasher, the water is not getting hot. i have tested the element and it reads 29ohms, the thermastate was tested ad dereases ohms as hot water is applied to infinity, i decided to change this anyway and stil does not get hot. When i start a washing cycle with a meter on the element i get 240volts to element for about 5second then it stops, 1 minute later it the element powers up to 240 volts again then that is it no more. The dishwasher completes allits cyles and drying cycle all ok except it does not dry the dishes as element is not staying on. the Divertor valve is working ok as the washing blades alternate from top to bottom during wash if this is correct not sure or shoud the both spin all the time??

Any help would be great, i am thinking PCB but everything else works fine in the cycle....This dishwasher has a flow through heating element...

Is there a diagnostic mode on this machine? i don't have any fault codes?

All wiring to door and PCB all ok no breaks or burns on PCB, realays not getting hot during operation

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Hi I have a very similar problem on my Beko DI1254AP dishwasher. I have replaced the thermistor in case, the element reads 29 Ohms resistance, and I just replaced the "electronic card group". As with the original circuit board, when I put a meter on the element it powers up to 240v for only 19 seconds and then back to minimal voltage, at both 'hot phases of the wash cycle ('Wash' and ' Hot rinse'). Any ideas on what else could be tried?

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SOLVED my problem - this blue wire runs down the inside of the door from the PCB into the back. Not sure what it does, but it had broken at the bend at the door hinge.

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was it the wire from the control board to the coil or from the control board to the thermostat?

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People, remember to "prime" your system with hot water at the SINK before doing this, these heaters are only so strong, my suggestion is, and manufacturers also, is to run sink until your water is hot, then run the dishwasher.

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It is not a brand new it has been working for a few years not it stops washing with hot water, it is time to replace or service

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WDF530PAYB6 I had a bad heating element. Replace it and the high limit thermostat, and still had no heat. I then found Service sheet W10580720A. It read that a diagnostic mode needed ran to turn the element back on. Diagnostic mode started by using the 123123123 button method. After that unit was fully functional.

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How did you turn the element back on?

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Same here. After checking that both the coil (replaced) and the thermostat are indeed conducting, the machine still did not work. After wasting a couple of hours more, read this and find our manual, and "123123123" does the magic!

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First, look at the heat coil in the bottom of the tub to see if there is any visual damage, such as a melted or burned through spot. If you see a spot like that, the element is bad and needs replacing. Otherwise, the dishwasher needs to be pulled out so the heating element can be checked at its terminals on the bottom (unless you're lucky enough that the terminals are at one of the front corners, as they are on some units) outside of the tub with a multimeter set to ohms. Depending upon the manufacturer, the element should read 15 to 25 ohms of resistance. If it reads "0", then it's bad and needs replacing.

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ugly pcs -

on your comment which brand are you talking about? I have a Kenmore

WDF530PAYB6 I had a bad heating element. Replace it and the high limit thermostat, and still had no heat. I then found Service sheet W10580720A. It read that a diagnostic mode needed ran to turn the element back on. Diagnostic mode started by using the 123123123 button method. After that unit was fully functional.

thank you

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I have a Kenmore model # 665.13479N410

I’m having the same issue. It’s not heating anymore. I replaced the heating element and nothing. What else can I do? Is there a reset code? Is it the thermostat? Help please

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In my case it was just WD21X10519 GE Switch Flood - the only the reason why dishwasher does not want to heat.

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do have mf72bd11 thermisters?

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I have a Frigidaire model FGBD2445NF0A. Same issue. Not heating water. Replaced thermostat and heating element even though both tested good. Then started chasing the wiring and found the white harness that goes to the door sensor was melted inside the terminals. I'm hoping this is the problem as there was no continuity through the switch in open or closed position. Running a test cycle now. If I do not update this post that is what fixed it.

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I replaced my heating element because it tested bad. It somehow shorted out the computer and I had to replace that too.

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My thermister reading is 67k at room temperature and it decreases with a warmer environment, can I rule out that the thermister is faulty?

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The solution which worked for me was... opening the motor pump, clean the motor magnet section, reconnect and there we go.

For me, what happened is this:

* The dishwasher stopped heating

* The heating element was still good, reading 13 ohms. Which also lead me to believe the thermostat was ok or else I could, potentially, have read an open circuit, or infinite resistance.

* But for some reason, the heating element electronic relays on the controller board were never kicking into the conductive state, therefore not providing the 120VAC needed for heating.

At that point, I thought it was a controller board issue. So I changed it, for the "small" price of 345$. When I changed it, the heat starting working again and I thought I had discovered and solved the issue, only to find out it had come right back a couple of days after.

Through reading on the web, I found out on the Tech Manual that when the controller board detects an issue while heating, it goes into an error state that prevents the relays from feeding the 120VAC to the heating element in the dishwasher. The controller board remains in that state until the error code is acknowledged and cancelled by the user.

On my dishwasher model (Whirlpool WDT910SSY3), using three consecutive buttons (whichever the ones you select, doesn’t matter), you follow the sequence 1-2-3, 1-2-3, 1-2-3. The dishwasher goes into a tech sequence with many steps (25 in my case). Once you’re done with it, you can acknowledge the codes, which resets them.

Once I had cleared the error code, the heating relays started kicking again and everything worked has intended immediately (for the heating part anyway). What I figured is that the new controller board I had bought, received and installed was more than likely not in an error state at installation time. Explaining why it worked a couple of times at first, only to go back into the trouble, since the actual issue was still there.

B-U-T!!!!! While troubleshooting, I found out that my motor pump was only working intermitently. When a washing sequence was starting, I could hear the water valve open and fill up the dishwasher and then, nothing for a while. The motor pump was supposed to start spinning but it wasn’t. So I taped on the motor pump a bit to suddenly hear it start spinning.

So I simply dismantled the motor pump (very easy procedure in my case), to find out that the somewhat sealed internal part where the magnet turns was so dirty that pieces of food were literally sticking to the magnet, making the whole fan shaft part unbalanced and shake like a washing machine trying to spin with all the clothes on the same side of the drum.

So I cleaned everything, put some non-toxic mineral oil in the little gromet where the shaft goes in to help the motor turn and... VOILA!!!! It's been working fine for weeks now.

So before you spend, find out how to get the error codes on your machine, clear them, clean the whole dishwasher, including the motor pump assembly, reconnect and try.

Hope it helps.

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Please help! After you put the dishwasher in to the test sequence, how did you figure out what the 25 steps were that you followed?

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I had this issue with a Kenmore 665 series. I checked the heating coil and it was reading between 8-30 ohms. I checked the thermostat which had lost to 0 ohm resistance as well. The control board was working okay. I ended up running it into diagnostic mode and this made the coil heat up properly. Diagnostic mode is accessed by pressing any 3 buttons in a row 3 times (1,2,3, 1,2,3 1,2,3…). Do this with the door open and press the buttons in a row 3x. All the lights will turn on, then close the door. Over the next 12 or minutes the dishwasher will check all of its sensors and reset everything, including the heating coil. There is an internal safety mechanism that will shut off dishwasher heating for various reasons. So step 1 should be to run diagnostic mode. Then check the coil for damage then resistance, then the thermostat. Also make sure the dishwasher has jet dry and a good hot water setup. This will help with having dry dishes.

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Mary Ridley さん、ありがとうございました!
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