The screen hinges don't have much resistance to them, if the screen is not almost vertical it will fall either backward or...

Hello, I have a right Quest/Rift S controller here that would not power on. Upon disassembly and inspection, I found that...

MacBook Air 13インチ Retina Display Late 2018 バッテリーの交換 Found in step 28 of this guide, I need the surface mount ZIF connector...

Didn't replace the upper case. Popped the old keyboard out fairly easily. I did that by disassembling everything to get the chassis on its own, grabbing the edge of the chassis with both hands, and forcefully shoving the corner of the keyboard toward the inside with my thumbs until the first few rivets popped. After the corner was pulled up enough, it was as simple as holding the chassis down and yanking the keyboard out the backside. Sitting the new keyboard in place, you can then reapply the backlight and the screws in the center of the keyboard, and reassemble the system. Most of the keys are rock solid, with only the slightest extra deck flex on the bottom corners if you're actively looking for it. This saved me a TON of buying a replacement chassis, as the laptop was sold to me in MINT condition externally. If the slight extra flex on the corners is undesirable, you could carefully remove the old rivets with something like a PCB drill bit the size of whatever screw you're using and only plunge like...

You won’t be able to get the very latest GPUs, and will be heavily limited by the performance of the CPU in these machines. I believe RX 580 is the newest you can get on an MXM card, and you’ll be almost entirely limited to AMD cards unless you’ll be running Windows on the machine. It will need to be flashed with modified firmware to see the boot options menu. Much better off spending your money on a newer machine. If you’re dead set on keeping it, there’s a wealth of info here https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/201...-imac-graphics-card-upgrade.1596614/ on what to do.

If you’re not able to solder on a new connector, you’ll need a new logic board. They can luckily be had quite cheaply on eBay.

Hate to necro an old post, but I’m having the same issue. I’ve tried two different displays and it will only ever display recovery (volume down + power) and shows up flickering. Has anyone managed to get a dead Surface Book to display anything again?

Swapping the chip might work unless the chip is bad. This was done occasionally on Xbox 360s. Hope you can solder well.