1) People ask very stupid questions in the comments. 2) You didn’t show where the release clips are, as the rear ones seem to be a major pain in the butt. 3) Stop trying to seem “interesting” in your writing; people are reading the guides because of your novelist abilities; they’re reading it for the INFORMATION within. Common sense truly is dead.

Less humor and BSery, please. I’ve noticed that iFixit likes to sprinkle humor in with their guides and — while it might tickle some in the right way — it’s not helpful (nor wanted) for those of us who are using these guides as…well, GUIDES.

If you’re asking the length of the fastener, then they’re ~13.3mm (I have calipers)

For us no bull-s*itters out there, could you please refrain from sprucing up your comment switch half-baked humor and, instead, stick to short-and-sweet (yet specific) guidance? Nobody wants to read past 3 jokes to find the relevant information for a tear-down.

I also don’t understand why there was a flag claiming that this should be broken into separate guides. People aren’t THAT stupid, I hope.

https://www.boschtoolservice.com/gb/en/d... —- found it.

I’m assuming the issue I have is a faulty gear-lock button (that, or the locking gear that it restricts when depressed). If so, did you find a replacement button from the manufacturer? In my experience, they rarely offer repair parts themselves.

Yeah, some people actually prefer their guides to look as professional as possible. Correcting someone’s grammar in a guide is meant to help them properly establish their brand. If you prefer to write a guide, Fuzy, with completely broken English (or whichever language you prefer) then you’re free to do so. I’m quite sure many people would second-guess the information within if the grammar is terrible. It’s all about appearance, professionalism, and personal brand.

Yeeeeeeeeeeahhh…I’m going to recommend you don’t use needles or bits to clear the holes. Just use high-quality solder-wick and flux to clear the holes— with an appropriate soldering tip. I see the OP used flux paste (judging from the prep) and used a brush to spread it. I’d highly recommend liquid flux; Amtech NC-559 flux — it’s the best I’ve ever used. Do the job correctly, and you’ll have no issues. PS — Try to use minimal heat when doing the job, as well. It’s probably just the way his flux paste burned, but it looks like he may have applied heat far longer than needed for those joints, but it could just be the flux burning. Also, clean the area with ~95% isopropyl alcohol (or higher) so it isn’t disgustingly sticky when that flux dries.

Yeah, the factory solder job for those motors on the mobo is terrible. Every time I open these up, I add more solder to those joints just to be safe.