はじめに

iPhone 6sのロジックボードを交換するにはこの手順に従ってください。

iPhoneのロジックボードとiPhone のTouch ID指紋認証センサーは工場出荷時にペアで製造されています。そのため、ロジックとペアで製造された交換用のホームボタンも同時に交換”しなければ”、ロジックボードを交換するとTouch ID機能を失ってしまいます。

またこの手順を利用して

ロジックボードのEMIシールドステッカー も交換できます。

iPhoneを分解する前に、バッテリーを25%以下まで消費してください。充電されたリチウムイオンバッテリーは、もしアクシデントで穴が空くと引火したり爆発する恐れがあります。
  • iPhoneを分解する前に、バッテリーを25%以下まで消費してください。充電されたリチウムイオンバッテリーは、もしアクシデントで穴が空くと引火したり爆発する恐れがあります。

  • 分解する前に、iPhoneの電源をオフにします。

  • Lightningコネクターの両隣にある、iPhone下部の側面に留められた2本の3.4 mm P2ペンタロープネジを取り外します。

Hi, just got the repair kit that came with IPhone 6S battery. I felt that there’s no explanation on which tool to use to remove the two 3.4mm P2 Pentalobe screws. It’s not helpful just to say “Remove the two 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone, next to the Lightning connector. “. It’s more important to explain how and what tool to use. The repair tool kit tools were not marked at all and it’s not right to assume that people know which tool or part to use. Please kindly address this issue. Thanks. Janet

Janet Monaghen - 返信

@beingchen For the P2 pentalobe screws you should use the driver bit marked P2. Might be a little hard to see but it’s there, etched into the side of the bit.

Jeff Suovanen -

It’s very clear which tool you need. As it says these are “3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws” - so you need a 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screwdriver…

alexanderbrix1987 - 返信

Just a P2 driver—3.4 mm is the length of the screw.

Jeff Suovanen -

If you can’t identify which screwdriver in the kit to use, you probably shouldn’t be working on your phone. Just sayin’

Keith Hockenbeck - 返信

6sのディスプレイを開口するにはディスプレイ周囲の薄い接着タブを剥離しなければなりません。作業前に接着タブの交換用接着タブを用意してください。接着タブを交換しなくても修理は可能で、おそらく機能性の違いを感じることはありません。
  • 6sのディスプレイを開口するにはディスプレイ周囲の薄い接着タブを剥離しなければなりません。作業前に接着タブの交換用接着タブを用意してください。接着タブを交換しなくても修理は可能で、おそらく機能性の違いを感じることはありません。

  • 吸盤カップをディスプレイアセンブリの左側下部の端に当てます。

    • ホームボタンの上に吸盤カップを取り付けないでください。

Hello, I was wondering if there was a guide of how to replace the adhesive strips, thank you

Pablo Reyes - 返信

The suction cup will not work if you have a shattered screen. I put a tip of an exacto knife between the glass and side frame above the power connector, carefully pried up then used the spluger to pry the rest of the way up.

johnmurphyjr - 返信

Tape will work as well in order to create a smooth surface

Nick Stine -

Even tape didn’t work on my first shattered screen 6S disassembly. Had to reset to the exacto/thin blade technique.

Peter Bovey - 返信

For me, it seemed like I only had one shot at the suction cup. It stuck on firmly the first time, but I noticed in the instructions that it was placed more on the side. I detached my suction cup and repositioned it and now it doesn’t stay (sucked) on. Hmmm.

Frank Terence - 返信

Can you use the iSclack opener to open the iPhone 6s?

Joe Koffee - 返信

The iSclack is helpful, although you have to use it a bit differently than you would on, say, a 5s or 6. The iSclack alone isn’t strong enough to pop the display open, because of all the adhesive around the perimeter of the 6s display. But you can use it to lift the display just enough to get a tool in there and start cutting the adhesive. Basically, the iSclack does the same job as the suction cup shown here, with maybe a bit less fuss.

Jeff Suovanen -

My screen was SUPER shattered… the hair dryer did the trick. Patience it definitely the key… I tried putting tape over the glass but the suction cup wouldn’t stick to it at all but it stuck to the broken glass for a few seconds. I taped it up when I was finally able to move onto the next steps to keep the glass from getting everywhere then peeled it off for Step 10.

Mandy Ng - 返信

Hi, it looks like, from reading the comments, that separating the display assembly from the phone is a tricky step.

Would the piece of equipment, in the link below, be any use at this stage? Seems it could be used for all makes and models.

Any info would be appreciated.

https://youtu.be/8it4o9tx8tQ

Michael Magor - 返信

I have a screen protector on my phone. I was wondering if it was going to be problem for the suction cup.

jeffreyleung2002 - 返信

  • 吸盤カップを均一の強さで持ち上げます。その際、フロントパネルとリアケースの間に小さな隙間を作ります。

    • 時間をかけて丁寧に、均一の力加減で持ち上げます。このディスプレイアセンブリは他のデバイスに比べてしっかりと接着されています。

  • 強く引っ張りすぎるとディスプレイアセンブリにダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。ディスプレイアセンブリとリアケースの間に、小さな隙間を作るぐらの力加減で持ち上げます。

No, really. Do this on a table and use less strength than you think. If you open the display the whole way at this step you can easily rip the home button connections and one of several display connections at the top. <— too much experience... :(

chuymatt - 返信

Wow, that was tough. Patience, patience, patience. Did not use the iOpener, just firm and consistent pulling with the phone on a flat surface. When the suction cup comes off... clean the display surface and go back at it. I did use the pointed end of a spudger inserted into the headphone jack to hold down the bottom case whilst I pulled on the suction cup. Once there was sufficient room (see next step) you can just get the spudger (flat end) to slide in slightly.

plisi - 返信

If you're lifting up on the glass, how are you supposed to hold the rest of the phone down? Is it by holding the camera end down with the side of your hand and rotating your hand, or using your other hand (not pictured) on the edges (seems very difficult), or using a spudger in a jack?

Bryan - 返信

On the 6s, which has an annoying black adhesive strip holding the display assembly on, I use the iSclack to loosen a very small area near the home button then insert a thin spudger and gently twist it a bit to release the adhesive. Do this around the bottom and both sides of the phone to release the screen. I usually have to break some of the adhesive strands when the opening is big enough.

scentaur - 返信

My spudgers just too thick for initial insertion. In the end, fingernail on my thumb got me started, and I was able to get plastic picks in there to work it. The microwavable iOpener gel strip really helped.

Heidi Moser - 返信

Thanks plisi, your comments are helpful. I had to apply pressure several different times. Didnt realize until about the seventh time applying pressure that what I was doing was slowly loosening the adhesive. Patience is truly the key with this step. You may not think you're progressing but it's slowly prying away.

amylofton - 返信

What happens if the cup won't even stick to the display because it is cracked and it will not hold air near the bottom of the phone?

Jaredrett - 返信

hey everyone, i just did my first iphone 6S display...after many 5, 5c, and 5s iphones...just keep trying and carefully insert the spunger where they said...right around the headphone jack. The black adhesive makes it very tough to get it off unless you work at one corner. Be careful...but you can do it! ;-)

David Althaus - 返信

Use a razor, and go along the outside of the phone carevilly using the razor as a spudger. it will efficiently cut and weaken the adhesive while spudging the screen away from the frame. only takes 15 mins.... Use a workbench razor, not a flimsy one. If possible, use one where one side of the razor has a gaurd on it for better grip. Take it slow and try not to scratch the frame. Lots of pressure and patience is key!!!

Goodluck!!

-J

Jaredrett - 返信

The first time you pull it apart there's black glue tape that you'll have to compete with to get it open. Be careful

Jeff - 返信

Use a hairdryer about 2-3 inches from the phone on high heat for about a minute, moving the dryer the entire time. The phone opened for me in less than a minute after trying for several minutes without heating up the phone.

Todd Leach - 返信

Careful ..delicate work. I also used a hot hair dryer around the perimeter for just a couple minutes to help loosen the adhesive bond. I then used my sadly short finger nail to help loosen the edge. I placed dental floss under the corner & carefully lifted the display very very slowly. This worked within about 3 minutes. As mentioned earlier the adhesive used in the iPhone 6s is very strong but this routine worked like a charm & was quick!

Mary Blocher - 返信

Much easier to do using the Spudger that is provided in the Pro Tool Kit. It has a thinner fin type head. The Spudger provided in this repair kit is definitely too thick and makes it far more difficult.

Tyler Brady - 返信

The spudger is too thick and the glue is too strong. Pulling up broke the glass below the power button. Now I am out $200 for a repair, plus a battery. Bummer. I am VERY good at repairing things. The adhesive on this is very very strong. The pentalobe tip that they send with the kits not milled well and I had to take a file and flatten the tip to get it to work - it is not finished well at all. I used the kit for the iPhone 6 for my Mom and had no problem. I am 51 and have been fixing things since I was very young.

greghabiby - 返信

Well, I shattered my screen trying to do this. So now I need a battery and screen repair. Not happy.

Carolann Parran - 返信

Me too! Be gentle!

Matthew Simoenau -

Removing the display was the hardest part of the whole job. The adhesive is very strong, but just be patient. What I ended up doing was to use the suction cup, the flat end of the spudger, and an iFixit opening tool. I used the suction cup on the screen as directed. Then I placed the flat end of the spudger just a bit into the charging port and held down the phone body by the spudger on my work mat. I pulled up on the suction cup, pushed down on the spudger, and inserted the thin iFixit opening tool in the small seperation. I took my time and worked my way around all of the edges. After that it was really easy. I was able to reuse the adhesive, and my new battery install went just as planned.

Eric Olson - 返信

Use a hair dryer as per the suggestions and this will definitely make the job easier and reducing the risk of breaking the display . Keep a steady pull of the display, don’t rush and it will start to show the small separation gap. An issue is that it will go back in place if you stop pulling before you can use the spudger tool. The suction tool that came with my repair kit did not have a ring on it as per the guide picture. It has a blue handle that is open on the side. I sat at my kitchen desk and opened a drawer. I hooked the open edge of the suction handle around the drawer side edge which me a third hand. I held the phone with one hand and pulled it away from the desk drawer. Once the separation started I could use my other hand with the flat edge of the spudger to complete the separation. Hope this helps.

emaneht - 返信

Hair dryer - 1 minute until it’s hot like a fresh mug of coffee. Then as soon as you see the smallest gap, insert a razor blade above the phones jack, I needed to slide it towards the charge port and back. Once it slips in keep it there and use your spudger to enlarge the gap and slide it along the corners.

Steve Esson - 返信

  • ヘッドホンジャックのちょうど真上、ディスプレイの下に隙間ができます。この箇所がデバイス本体を開口する際に最も安全な場所です。

  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を、ヘッドホンジャック上部のスクリーンとリアケースの隙間に差し込みます。

WARNING: easy to stretch/ruin the adhesive

As you proceed, know that you must keep ALL of the adhesive stuck to the phone. If any stays stuck to display, it can become permanently stretched as you are prying and lifting. Then you’ll need to buy the replacement adhesive, once it’s back in stock!

Jason - 返信

If you’re opening the phone at all, you’re compromising the adhesive. There is absolutely no way to somehow open it perfectly so you can re-use it. Fortunately, it’s cheap and fairly easy to replace—and not even that critical on the 6s series anyway, since it’s not doing any real waterproofing.

Jeff Suovanen -

  • フロントパネルアセンブリとデバイス本体の間に作った隙間を広げるためにスパッジャーをひねりながら動かします。

No need to turn the spudger full 90°. Just turn it a little.

Martin Born - 返信

  • ディスプレイアセンブリとリアケースの左側にスパッジャーの平面側先端を差し込みます。

  • 接着面を切り込みながらクリップを外していき、スパッジャーをデバイス本体の左側からの上部に向かってスライドします。

I’ve found it very easy to open the phone with one of the blue opening picks.

Just slide it along the left and right side of the display.

Martin Born - 返信

Excellent idea. No matter which tool you use take your time so not to damage the display assembly further. Even a cracked screen is a great test tool or spare to use while doing other repairs when it still comes on.

Bryan Solo -

Do not go into the top left corner too far your screen will crack i learned the hard way

Kevin - 返信

  • スパッジャーを一度抜いて、最初にスパッジャーを差し込んだ位置、本体の下部端に再度差し込みます。

  • 次はスパッジャーをデバイス本体下部の右側に向かってスライドします。

コメントを追加する

  • 続けてスパッジャーを右サイドに沿ってスライドしながら圧着剤を切り込み、ディスプレイのクリップをiPhoneから外します。

コメントを追加する

  • 吸盤カップをディスプレイから持ち上げながら開き、残りの圧着剤部分を剥がします。

  • 3本のケーブルが本体上部で繋がっているため、90度以上ディスプレイを開かないでください。開きすぎるとケーブルを切断してしまいます。

Prop it up on something

Nick Stine - 返信

an old iPhone box and a rubber band lightly around the display works great to hold it at 90

Christa - 返信

  • 吸盤カップのノブを緩めて、フロントパネルからカップを外します。

コメントを追加する

  • ディスプレイアセンブリを丁寧に手で押さえてデバイス本体から持ち上げます。上部に留められたクリップを蝶番にして開いてください。

  • ディスプレイを約90度まで開き、この位置で固定したままにします。衝立を利用してください。

    • 作業中、ディスプレイがしっかりと固定されるように、輪ゴムで留めてください。ディスプレイケーブルへの予期せぬ損傷を防ぎます。

    • 急ぎの時は未開封の飲料用缶を利用して、ディスプレイを固定できます。

Smart idea :)

x226 - 返信

on the third picture, the screen is opened more than 90 degrees.

Mirza Zohaib - 返信

It said about 90 degrees

Nick Stine -

In the second picture I was originally wondering what that diagonal piece of material was. Now that I've done a repair I can say that it's the sticky adhesive around the edge of the phone lifting up with the screen.

jonl - 返信

  • バッテリーコネクターブラケットに留められた次のプラスネジを2本外します。

    • 2.9 mmネジー1本

    • 2.2 mmネジー1本

In order to put the correct screw back where you took it out mark the head surface and a small dot beside the hole with a pen. Use coloured pens if you want the exact location for each screw/hole. This goes for steps 17, (23) and 29 too.

lionno1 - 返信

  • iPhoneからバッテリーコネクターブラケットを取り出します。

コメントを追加する

  • スパッジャーの先端を使って、ロジックボードからバッテリーコネクターを上に持ち上げて外します。

Be sure not to skip this step. It is crucial. I have had many repairs where the screen will not light up after the repair if the battery had not been disconnected and reconnected.

Andrew spoelstra - 返信

Thanks for the tip, Andrew.

William Turner -

It should also be mentioned, DO NOT USE A METAL SPUDGER. You could short the battery to other nearby metal parts. I've done that, the battery clip arced to the metal cover on some of the logic board chips, and my phone wouldn't power back on for 3 days. They should put a caution caption on this step. I've had this happen on a 5S as well.

Frank - 返信

Thanks for the tip, Frank.

William Turner -

SERIOUS WARNING!: During *reassembly*, you should NOT reconnect the battery connector until the VERY LAST step (upon reassembly!), as many people, including myself, apparently have smoked (burned, destroyed) the main Logic board. This happens when you reconnect the LCD/digitizer assembly FPC cable. ifixit should modify this instruction to be very explicit about this!

enoughstatic - 返信

  • 作業中、アクシデントでバッテリーが接続しないよう、ロジックボードからバッテリーコネクターを引き離し、ソケットから完全に離れた位置で固定します。

If you remove the grey bar with the word “TAPTIC” next, removal of the battery adhesive is much easier. It can be pulled straighter back with less chance of tearing. Here’s an image with the securing screws identified.

If you securely anchor the screen to a can of soup, it is not necessary complete step 16 Front Panel Assembly. I was able to remove the two bottom (1.2 mm) screws and the 2.8 mm screw, but could not get the upper (1.2 mm) screw. I was able to remove the old battery with the Front Panel Assembly left in place.

Edward Dziuk - 返信

Hi what it is called black cover between battery connector and sim card tray? Thanks

Rajendra - 返信

  • ディスプレイケーブルブラケットに留められた次のプラスネジを4本外します。

    • 1.2 mmネジー3本

    • 2.8 mmネジー1本

Thank you for this great guide!

I was able to skip removing the display assembly and logic board steps and lay the speaker upside down on the bottom edge of the logic board without putting undue pressure on the antenna cable making this a much easier and quicker repair for me. If you choose to leave the display assembly connected, I recommend using a rubber band to hold it to a box of similar size at a 90 degree angle to prevent damage and stress to the attached cables.

So, the steps I skipped were Steps 16 through 34 and Steps 37 through 45.

scentaur - 返信

The 1.2mm screw in the top left corner is refusing to come out, any help?

Harry Allinson - 返信

why does the battery fix kit not include the #00 bit needed to unscrew all 3 1.2mm screws?!?! !#^&@@ off.

robertdjclark - 返信

Either a #00 or a #000 bit should work fine here. Some #0 bits will also work if the point is fine enough. Same goes for a lot of JIS bits. As long as it doesn't strip or slip, you're good.

Jeff Suovanen -

My kit's screwdriver failed about the time I got to the last few steps in this tutorial. I had a cheap precision set with a #000 bit but that refused to seat in the screws. I went to Home Depot, bought a lifetime guarantee Husky precision set with #0000 through #0 bits and that worked beautifully on every screw.

David Shaddock - 返信

The screwdriver in my kit doesn't remove the bottom two screws! any reason why?

anujfolsom - 返信

I actually followed all the guide but isn’t the front panel disassembly skippable? And if so what are the benefits of removing it? Cause i had quite a hard time putting back in the connectors of the 3 flex cables.

GiovanniB - 返信

I have the 6s from Dubai. the top left screw is different with the rest. I am stuck on this screw. i am clue less why this top left + screw.

Anyone have the same issue?

Evander Lorenz - 返信

A precision screwdriver set is a wise investment for doing any of this work. I got a set from iFixit that is very well machined. Don’t expect the cheap drivers with kits to last more than one disassembly-assembly, if that! Also don’t keep mangled bits or drivers…throw them out!!!

Peter Bovey - 返信

what crews  should I use in this step PH000. OR Y000 OR P2 Plz help me

mshary alzhrany - 返信

The kit provided with the replacement Battery of iPhone 6s does not include the right bits to remove the three 1,2mm screws! I had to remove it without removing the display.

Matthias Wagner - 返信

I too experienced a problem with the size of the screwdriver here (supplied in the iFixit kit.) My phone also had a 5th screw right in the center of the plate - another 1.2mm. I removed and replace it without problems.

Scott Young - 返信

@scottvyoung Sounds like you’re working on an iPhone 6. These instructions are for the 6s.

Jeff Suovanen -

Screws are very small and very difficult to put back in!! Lost 2-3 screws

Put phone back together and of course doesnt work Waste of Money!

Thomas Kintigh - 返信

I purchased a “screw set” for an i-Phone 5 and have slowly been cannibalizing it whenever I lose a screw. It has been invaluable and the set includes enough screws that I have been able to cover all that have been dropped and lost for 3 i-Phones now. Using a magnetic mat has also limited my screw loss considerably! All of these items were purchased through IFIXIT at very reasonable cost. Thank you IFIXIT!

Peter Bovey -

The ifixit kit supplied screwdriver for the display cable bracket did NOT fit. (disappointing) So, I used scentar’s (comment above) method of a large rubber band wrapped around a book weighted kit box to hold it at 90 degrees. Leaving the screen attached and then removing and replacing the battery.

laffinbuz - 返信

I had a problem reassembling the iPhone, my touchId wasn’t working any more even if the home button was working correctly. I don’t know why but loosening these 4 screw a bit made it work again. If I tight them again it doesn’t work. Maybe this can help someone.

Alex Mufatti - 返信

  • ディスプレイケーブルブラケットを取り出します。

コメントを追加する

  • スパッジャーの平面側先端や指の爪先を使って、基板上ソケットから正面カメラのフレックスケーブルをまっすぐ引き上げて接続を外します。

Note carefully the order that they are removed.  My new display had them in the WRONG order and I spent about 2 minutes trying to figure out what was wrong until I compared the new screen with the old screen and saw that they were in wrong sequence.  Fortunately they were relatively easy to fold out of the way and put them in the right order.  After that they popped right into place.  The new cables don’t have the “fold” yet so display had to be held at 90 degrees until all three were installed and the cover reattached.

David Rogers - 返信

I pop up these screen connectors using my fingernail. After doing a lot of repairs, this is the easiest and fastest way to get them loose.

Kenneth Hilstan - 返信

  • スパッジャーの平面側先端や指の爪先を使って、基板上ソケットからデジタイザーケーブルをまっすぐ上に引き上げて接続を外します。

  • デジタイザケーブルを再接続する際は、コネクターの中央を押さないでください。コネクターの片一方を押し込んでから、反対側を押します。コネクターの中央を押すとコンポーネントが曲がり、デジタイザーにダメージを与えてしまいます。

Recolor that "pinned" note about not pushing on the center in "RED" if you get a chance. Just sayin'.

William Turner - 返信

Good call. Thanks for the tip!

Evan Noronha -

I can't seem to get the digitizer cable to snap back into place. Any suggestions?

gbmazur - 返信

Yes--if you, like me, could not get the digitizer connector to seat, you've probably got confused on the reassembly order. I had to remove the EMI shield (seven screws), and reinstall it ON TOP of the big flap tongue that comes with the new digitizer, rearranging the order of the connector tails. Note that one of the connectors is a bit shorter than the other, and one of the receptacles on the iPhone is shorter as well. Make sure you're laying down the tails and connectors in the right order when you reassemble! The display data cable--sideways to the others, toward the outer edge, goes first. Then the longer connector, and finally the shorter one. When they're seated, they're seated, and you'll be sure of it.

David Shaddock - 返信

  • スパッジャーの平面側先端や指の爪先を使って、基板上ソケットからディスプレイデータケーブルをまっすぐ上に引き上げて外します。

I notice there are 3 flex cables, does this disassembly guide apply to the verizon version of iPhone 6s? I don't want to order the wrong digitizer screen for my new and improved iPhone that i somehow managed to crack the screen on.

Bailey Duncan - 返信

There are four cables to disconnect here to complete this process, at least on my phone. The replacement screen also had 4, so no problem.

Scott Young - 返信

I am having a hard time reattaching the LCD cable. Is it possible I bent the connectors? Or possibly the gaskets around it are interfering? I’d like to just pull all of that waterproofing gasket off! >:(

Amanda Cooper (Doula) - 返信

Did you end up going this? My screen is black so I'm trying to figure out what i did

Alex Tanner -

I neglected to detach the battery before taking this step and upon reassembly I have no display. What might be my next step to repair.

Dennis Gagomiros - 返信

You can try reseating the cables, but the likely answer is that your logic board’s backlight circuit is blown. If you power on your phone and you can see an image on the display by shining a bright light on it, your backlight circuit is toast. This is a common repair and very fixable, but requires microsoldering equipment and expertise. It’s not a DIY.

Jeff Suovanen -

I made the same mistake and I'm wondering if you got a fix for it? Is the damage done on the screen assembly or phone itself?

goesprotocall -

My screen replacement only comes with two flex cables but all of the videos are showing three. It is not working to connect the flex cables to the connectors

cellabella1 - 返信

The third flex cable would be for the front-facing camera, sensors, etc. If you bought a display that doesn’t include those components, you’ll need to transfer them to your new display first, and then you’ll be able to install it and plug everything in. The instructions are over here. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

If you're replacing the adhesive, be sure to check the two tabs on the display that receive the pentalobe screws before setting the display on the new adhesive. The tabs on my display were bent inward slightly—just out of reach of the pentalobe screws. I didn't bend these out before setting the display and was forced to re-open the display to adjust them, ruining my carefully placed adhesive.

cdinger - 返信

There is no need to remove camera or the logic board if all you want to do is replace the lightning assembly. Leaving things in place will save you a number of steps. Proceed directly to Step 35 and save yourself all this work.

Ira Goldman - 返信

Also read comments on step 37 as others have also pointed out that there is no need to pull logic board and you can skip those steps mentioned.

Ira Goldman - 返信

Unless you are replacing the speaker you can skip to step 34 as there is no need to remove the logic board.

Bryan Solo - 返信

My replacement display was not functional, but I didn’t test it until after my adhesive was already applied. Might be worth double-checking the replacement screen works before applying the adhesive at all. (though I’m glad I tried it before closing it up!)

Ben - 返信

When reconnecting to the logic board, reverse the order, so display first, then digitizer and finally camera. The front pannel slides into small edge of the backchannel. So start at the top when you put front and back together.

Joep Willemsen - 返信

be sure battery is disconnected before reassembling the display —in case you reconnected it to position battery

Christa - 返信

  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボードのソケットからiSightカメラの接続を外します。

コメントを追加する

  • iSightカメラのブラケットに留められた2本のプラスネジを取り外します。

    • 1.6 mmネジー1本

    • 2.0 mmネジー1本

コメントを追加する

  • カメラブラケットを取り出します。

コメントを追加する

  • 背面ケースとカメラモジュールの間のカメラ側にスパッジャーを差し込みます。

  • スパッジャーを動かしながら丁寧にカメラを持ち上げます。

コメントを追加する

  • カメラを取り出します。

There is one more step after this.

You must remove some metal part before you push out the camera ring.

Also must have new metal part because after you take out (metal part) cant back agin the same part.

Sry for my english.

Best regards

It Step - 返信

Hi - after doing this I had a little part left over … eek.. part number 160-5Z and two little screws… can you help by tells my me where ive gone wrong please? Thank you

Hayley graham - 返信

  • SIMカードトレイの小さなホールにSIM取り出しツールや紙クリップを差し込みます。

  • トレイを取り出すためにクリップを押し込みます。

    • かなりの力で押し込んでください。

コメントを追加する

  • iPhoneからSIMカードトレイを取り出します。

  • SIMカードを再挿入する際は、トレイに対してカードが正しい方向に配置されているか確認してください。

コメントを追加する

  • 上部コンポーネントケーブルのコネクターブラケット上に留められた2.3 mmプラスネジを2本取り外します。

コメントを追加する

  • 上部コンポーネントのケーブルコネクターブラケットを取り出します。

コメントを追加する

  • 上部左側のWi-Fiアンテナに留められた、次のプラスネジ5本を外します。

    • 1.5mmネジー2本

    • 2.3 mmネジー1本

    • 1.9 mmネジー1本

    • 2.0 mmネジー1本

コメントを追加する

  • 上部左側のWi-Fi アンテナを取り出します。

Step 32, 33 & 34 & their pictures show the middle case "One 1.9 mm Phillips screw" under the Wi-Fi antenna chip having been removed when it actually isn't removed until step 42. This made me think I had missed a step when I hadn't.

blitzn - 返信

  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボードのソケットからオーディオコントロールケーブルの接続を外します。

コメントを追加する

  • スパッジャーの先端を使って、ロジックボードの上部右端のソケットからアンテナケーブルの接続を外します。

It is still recommended to disconnect the antenna in this step as it will allow some slack you may need but tugging or pulling on the antenna cable down at the speaker could still damage it so be patience. Also lift on the connection from the metal portion as lifting from the cable could cause it to snap.

Bryan Solo - 返信

  • スパッジャーの先端を使って、ロジックボード左下側のソケットからアンテナケーブルの接続を外します。

Be super careful here, pry the cable by the brass connector so as not to snap it off

Andrew Truglia - 返信

During reassembly: be aware that the replacement antenna connector (the one that comes as part of the lightning port assembly) might be a very snug fit here. It probably took me close to 10 minutes to get mine on. Thankfully the little sucker is stronger than it looks, or else I would have smushed it flat multiple times. You’ll know that you finally have it when it lightly snaps in place.

crimsontideaggie - 返信

  • スパッジャーの平面側先端をLightningコネクターのリボンケーブルの下に差し込みます。ロジックボードのソケットからケーブルを押し上げて、接続を外します。

Reassembly: A lot of adhesive held this cable down. Had difficulty getting this ribbon cable reconnected to the socket; it kept popping back up. I think the antenna cable was not exactly where it needed to be, and I had to mess with logic board a bit to make sure the antenna cable was wedged down where it needed to be.

Heidi Moser - 返信

Unless you are replacing the speaker you may skip to step 46 as removal of the logic board is not necessary.

Bryan Solo - 返信

  • ロジックボード右側2つのクリップからアンテナケーブルを丁寧に外します。

nope, don't bother taking the logic board out if your just replacing the lightning connector. when removing the speaker in the steps after you can just fold it over to the side leaving it connected by the antenna. obviously not very professional but saves a very lot of messing with the 6s's stupid wee plastic clips, brackets and what not.

waynemcguigan - 返信

Thanks friend!!

Pedro -

Wish I had read this comment earlier. Had a bear of a time reconnecting this antenna cable.

Heidi Moser - 返信

  • ロジックボードに付けられたNFCブラケットから1.3 mmプラスネジを取り外します。

コメントを追加する

  • NFCブラケットを取り出します。

Именно эта деталь отвечает за нормальную работу ApplePay, при возникновении ошибок часто является причиной, но не всегда.

Matvey Sokolov - 返信

“This particular part is responsible for the normal operation of ApplePay, when errors occur it is often the cause, but not always.” Translated this comment into english because I found it very helpful and figured other english speakers would find it helpful to know as well.

TitanTech Service Center - 返信

  • 次のプラスネジを2本取り外します。

    • ロジックボード上部から2.5 mmネジー1本

    • 背面ケースの上部サイドに留められた1.4 mmネジー1本

コメントを追加する

  • プラスチッククリップを取り出します。

コメントを追加する

  • 背面ケースに付けられたロジックボードから次の3本のネジを取り外します。

    • 1.9 mm プラスネジー1本

    • 2.5 mm六角ナットー1本

    • 1.8 mmプラスネジー1本

The tool to remove the hex standoff screw WASNT included in the recommended parts list. A hex driver bit WAS included; however the hex screw needs to be removed using a socket type bit. I removed it using the tweasers as pliers.

mario cruz - 返信

You're right, we listed the wrong driver type. It's listed correctly now—the 2.5 mm nut driver is the tool you want.

Jeff Suovanen -

I used a 2.5mm nut driver for the standoff.

leres - 返信

I found it easy using flat head 1 bit

Darnel Braxton - 返信

It works with the iphone Pentalobe Screwdriver for me ...

javiercebrianrico - 返信

It worked with Pentalone driver.

Jay .Patel - 返信

For some reason the 2.5 mm nut driver in my iFixIt tool set does not work. I think the nut is a bit too shallow (short) to fit into the driver itself

ray - 返信

Hi Ray! If you think you have a faulty bit, please don’t hesitate to contact customer service, they’ll take care of you!

Sam Lionheart -

I have the same issue! the 2.5 mm nut driver in my 64 bit iFixIt tool set does not work.

just1ed - 返信

  • 開口ピックを、ボードとスピーカーの間にあるロジックボード下部の端から差し込みます。

  • 開口ピックを使って、丁寧にロジックボードを持ち上げます。

  • ロジックボードを取り出します。

While I haven’t actually used this guide, I’ll be back as soon as I get a replacement logic board…can anyone tell me where to get one for a 6s+ ?

johnysaunt - 返信

On reassembly, be sure the audio control cable isABOVE the logic board when you place it.

Cathy Sanford - 返信

まとめ

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

109 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:

100%

これらの翻訳者の方々は世界を修理する私たちのサポートをしてくれています。 貢献してみませんか?
翻訳を始める ›

Evan Noronha

メンバー登録日: 2015年02月05日

142,213 ポイント

177のガイドは作成済み

チーム

iFixit iFixit人のメンバー

Community

112 メンバー

6,709のガイドは作成済み

So all the logic boards come with the components installs? Like the High band PAD, power amplifier avago, power amplifier Skyworks, power amplifier TriQuint, LTE modem Qualcomm, and lastly the Apps processor Apple SoC stacked on Elpida RAM. Here I thought you had to buy them.

I'm also assuming that some don't. I would like to know that alternative.

Royer Adames - 返信

Does the logic board have the SSD on them or they else where in the iPhone?

tazzy - 返信

Yup! The SSD is a flash memory chip hidden underneath an EMI shield on the logic board. You can see it in our teardown.

Evan Noronha -

Um, no, actually the NAND/ssd/flash/storage chip is the big Toshiba one in the middle, it’s the one next to the line of capacitors, and is not under the shields. there are shields on either side of it. Look at the teardown page you linked to yourself and you will confirm what I’ve said.

Sam the Techman -

great guide worked perfectly, had some minor water damaged internals with a completely good logic board, replaced it in a 16g pos basically have a brand new 128g 6s

miniperf93 - 返信

Thank you Evan for taking the time to make this guide

Jeff Moore - 返信

Great instruction. The only thing I had a problem with on my 6s motherboard removal was not knowing how to remove one end of the single black wire that rides along the left edge for about 4 inches (when viewed with the screen upside down and with bottom down. I ended up severing the wire at the bare junction about half way of the wire length. Hope that it is not a coaxial cable!

Richard Lukso - 返信

Great instruction set.

Richard Lukso - 返信

v

Great instruction. The only thing I had a problem with on my 6s motherboard removal was not knowing how to remove one end of the single black wire that rides along the left edge for about 4 inches (when viewed with the screen upside down and with bottom down. I ended up severing the wire at the bare junction about half way of the wire length. Hope that it is not a coaxial cable!

Richard Lukso - 2 minutes ago

Richard Lukso - 返信

I just cut, soldered, and added shrink tubing, and 3G signal strength is 3-4 dots, after reinstall. I don't believe it is a coax...

James Schumacher - 返信

Hello guys

My iphone is locked with activation lock and I forget my I'd password so what I have to do

Like if I change motherboard then this problem can be solved or not

Reply me at - py12347@gmail.com

py12347 - 返信

if my 6s logic board is water damaged, would replacing this make it work again? i still have my original home button and everything, i know apple pairs the logic board with the home button for touch id security purposes. so will i still be able to use my apple/touch id if the logic board is different?

Radu - 返信

If your logic board has water damage, it's not necessarily gone forever. For relatively minor water damage, give this guide a try. If that doesn't do the trick, a professional repair tech with an ultrasonic cleaner and board-level repair skills can probably still bring it back to life. If you do end up replacing the logic board, then yes, you will lose Touch ID functions unless you also purchase and install the home button that was originally paired to the new logic board. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Hi, I know nothing of phones or repair, but am trying to find out if I can recover the data on my iphone 6s. It hasn't been opened yet but due to the nature of the "bend" in the phone, a "tech" felt the motherboard was likely cracked (he didn't open it, just decided this based on that bend the fact it won't power on/ charge, though it was charged before it got bent). I would love to save my iPhone, but I'm most concerned about the pictures and texts that I have on this phone. Anyone have any suggestions? I would be afraid of replacing it outright if that data is stored there. I couldn't afford to replace the phone with another iphone right now, so when I plug back in it will be with a cheaper Android. Thanks!

Jamie Spray - 返信

Great instruction set. Thank you Evan for taking the time to make this guide

amigoclubs - 返信

Thank you Evan for taking the time to make this guide

Best Regards

Amigo

amigoclubs - 返信

Hi! this is a helpful turtorial. but where can I buy the logic board? and do different countries have differrent logic board? like is there any difference in an US iphone 6s logic board and an European one?

zubajrat - 返信

hi my ip6s was screen damage but when i go for repair the home button is not functioning. May i know what is the reason of home button is not functioning? have to change board for that? Thank you

fatimah - 返信

Where may I purchase a new logic board for an iPhone 6s? When replacing the Logic Board, is it required to replaced the home button as well?

Lambo Thach - 返信

So I was trying to replace my screen so I turned it off and followed a video online. While i was trying to plug in the display cable, it conducted electricity and it produced smoke. It seems like I burned parts of the display cable socket. Is there an easy fix for replacing this or would I need to buy a whole new logic board with everything included? My phone still seems to turn on and I can feel the vibration from the ring/silent switch.

Daniel - 返信

@dank_00 This happens when you short the pins on the display cable socket while leaving the battery connected. The little puff of smoke was your backlight filter getting fried. (For future reference, on any mobile electronics repair, you should always disconnect the battery before you start and don’t reconnect it until you’re done.) You don’t need a new logic board, as this is a pretty straightforward repair for a shop with the right skill and equipment. But it isn’t a DIY. You’ll need to find someone who does board-level repairs (a.k.a. microsoldering). Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

My iPhone 6s is locked with a “lost iPhone” screen . Will replacing the motherboard make it go away ?

Coral - 返信

Hii icloud lock khul jayega yes or no

Manish Gupta - 返信

If motherboard having RAM??

rsai666 - 返信

コメントを追加する

統計データを表示:

過去 24時間: 196

過去 7 日: 1,166

過去 30 日: 5,220

今までの合計 125,125