はじめに
Apple Watchの画面が割れてしまいましたか？修理をしましょう！このガイドではスクリーン（ 有機EL ディスプレイとを溶接されたタッチスクリーン）を交換します。
デバイスにダメージを与えないための注意として、このガイドは一番最初にバッテリーの接続を外すことから始まります。まずは取り出すことが唯一の方法です。
作業が終了したら、 Apple Watchの接着剤の交換ガイドを参照してください。
必要な工具と部品
ビデオの概要
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iOpenerを準備（またはヘアドライヤーかヒートガン）し、触れるには少し熱すぎるくらいの温度まで加熱します。
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iOpenerを1分以上ウォッチにあてて、スクリーンを温めます。ケースに装着している接着剤が完全に柔らかくなるまで待ちます。
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この手順で使用する道具：Safety Glasses$3.19
In my instance, the problem started with the face/screen popping off because the battery swelled. So I didn’t need to heat the face and pry it off. I did heat it a bit in order to warm the residue adhesive on the edge of the face and the case frame and found it easier to scrap it off gently with the craft blade that came with the $39.21 battery replacement kit. If this is your issue, you can skip the prying up steps.
Same situation as jeb605 - my watch battery swelled and popped the screen off. Fortunately the force touch sensor did not debond from the watch. Thinking about just cleaning the back side of the screen and applying new adhesive. I used an alternate kit that did not come with the force touch sensor.
Bonjour ça fait deux heures que je chauffe et réchauffe, impossible de d’ouvrir cette Apple Watch série 6 je ne sais plus quoi faire j’ai l’impression d’avoir dépensé de l’argent inutilement
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デバイス正面下部の端のガラスとケースの隙間に刃のカーブ部分をしっかりと真下に押し下げます。
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ガラスが押し上がったら、丁寧にナイフを下向きに位置を変えていき、ガラスをもっと押し上げるようにして隙間を広げていきます。
It is not possible to separate the screen from the casing? I have heated this thing numerous times and the opening is way too small to get any type of blade, knife or other tool in between. Any suggestions???
Using a curved blade like the guide recommends, angle the blade straight down between the glass and the edge of the frame, mid-way along the bottom edge of the case. The metal of the case will flex *just a little bit*, allowing you to slowly rotate the blade so the cutting edge is now pointing towards the center of the watch instead of down towards your work surface. You may need to rock the blade back and forth, sort of massaging the curve into the seam between the glass and the metal before it works. And like they mention above, lots of heat. I used the heatpack they sell, put it in my toaster oven on 200. I started at 130, and went up in 20 degree increments until it worked.
Pete -
I've tried everything, heating it up until it's too hot to touch, pressing the knife in the gap straight down, at an angle, nothing seems to work. I've tried using all my arm strength and it still doesn't even enter the gap. Is the iFixit Jimmy not thin enough for the job?
It’s not. The Jimmy’s a great pry tool, but not a cutting blade and not sharp enough for this particular job. You want a curved razor like the guide suggests.
Just to emphasise after quite a struggle - the blade absolutely matters!! I tried about 5 and almost gave up before the last one lifted the glass quite easily. Obviously, you want a thin blade! No, thinner than that!
Mark Moore - 返信
I got hung up on this step for over an hour. The key for me was to keep the watch straps on! I initially took them off thinking it would be easier to work with the watch, but I guess just the little pressure I placed on the glass while trying to hold the watch and use the blade was enough to keep it in place. At first I thought I didn’t use enough heat and ended up reheating the iOpener a few times and applying it to the watch over the course of an hour. I put the top strap on, put it back flat on the table and held the watch secure with just the strap. I gave it another go with the blade and the screen instantly popped off. Also, be careful with the force you use on the blade… it seems with adequate heat, you don’t need to use that much (I ended up cutting through the Force Touch sensor and punctured the battery).
I would never use a knife like this to remove the screen. It’s way to wide to get in between the glass and body, without potentially breaking the glass. I use the Ultra Thin iFlex Opening Tool, sold by IFIXIT. Seriously. You won’t wanna use a fat blade like that after you take the iFlex for a test drive.
I used the rounded blade provided by iFixIt themselves as part of the Series 1 battery replacement kit and even that was wide enough that it scratched my case while trying to pry the screen up. Also I had to heat the iOpener like 3 or 4 times consecutively at 30s each and leave it on the screen for 5+ minutes before the screen would even budge. Heating for 30 sec and leaving on the screen for 1 minute was not even close to enough.
The display came off nicely after heating the iOpener a couple of times and wiggling the blade a bit. Now i have replaced the battery and the force touch sensor an thought I was ready for a dry run. So I did not peel off the final layer of film so that I can still remove the display. What I see is not good, the display is full of stipes and pixles in many colors. So, did I break the display (e.g. by heat) or does it have to be completely glued to the sensor in order to work?
I got the answer. Unfortunately, I broke the display. A magifying glass revealed that I have scratched the cable where I inserted the blade. Replacing the display and I fixed it!
Jörg -
For anyone who’s having trouble getting the screen separated from the case, try leaving the iopener on the Watch for longer like around 4 or 5 minutes
Eli Duffer - 返信
Hi, I bought the battery replacement kit for my Apple Watch Series 2 in steel. Not having a microwave, I used a hot air gun with a temperature set at 110 degrees celsius and tried to carry out the display opening maneuvers as per your video. The display didn't move, I tried all over the edge but nothing. What am I doing wrong?
greetings, thank you,
Maurizio S.
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スクリーンの右側からゆっくりとこじ開けていきます。
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同様に、左側スクリーンも接着剤から外してこじ開けていきます。ーしかし、2本のケーブルによってスクリーンが繋がっているため、完全に取り出さないでください。
My iwatch screen came lose. There are two strips loose I don’t know how or where they connect to. The watch still powers on and screen is not cracked. Can you advise how to get it back on again?
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センサーの上部層は、スクリーンの裏側に接着剤で固定されていることがあります。その場合、センサーを下向きに押して、外してください。
Hi, thanks for the guide, nice work. I miss a picture of the natural opening of the screen, as the mentioned “Force Touch sensor slides” gets connected from the screen to the main body of the watch by a pair of very thin wires. None of these wires are seen in any of the pictures among this guide, which may lead novices to not pay enough attention to them, broke them accidentally, or not knowing what are them for. Picture on step 13 is absolutely impossible without removing the slides / thin wires of the force touch sensor in advance.
Cheers
"If you can see the top layer of your Force Touch sensor" - How are we supposed to know whether we can see this or not? If one of your images shows us this then can you please point this out. Also, an image of what it should look like, without the problem would be good.
Just discovered this article you have posted about replacing the Force Touch Sensor. After looking at the article I can now see your first image, above, is showing the separated Force Touch Sensor. Perhaps you should link to it in this article, so people can get a better idea of what it is and what it looks like:
Same issue as djones I think. My watch was forced apart by an expanding battery and it came apart in such a way that the force touch sensor was still intact, connected to the watch back and still glued to the face. If I had an image showing the two connectors to the force touch sensor along the same side as the cables, I would have better understood and released the force touch sensor from the face before pulling the sensor away from it's connection in the base. Would have saved $20+ on buying a replacement sensor. Thank you for the documented process.
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スクリーンを押し上げて、ディスプレイデーターとデジタイザーケーブルに気をつけながら、左側に移します。
I have 2 other small cables which are missing in your photos. Can you also explain what to do with them? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_6ngMn9...
Looks like you forced touch sensor is still attached to the screen and not the body. I’ve got the same issues. I’m going to try to use the plastic tool and heat to gently remove it from the screen and return it down to the body. You can see it in their fix of it… Apple Watch Force Touchセンサーの交換 . Hope this helps.
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ウォッチを少なくとも1㎝の高さの上に置いて下さいー小さな箱や本の端を利用すると便利です。これは、スクリーンを垂直に固定して、バッテリーにアクセスしやすくするためです。
I would taped the watch to the elevated surface and rotated the surface around as I needed to
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ハサミを使って、バッテリーの幅に合うように開口ピックを切ってください。鋭利な角を残さないように丸みを持たせてください。
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バッテリー右側とケースの間に切り込んだピックを挿入します。
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一定の力でゆっくりとバッテリーを持ち上げます。システムボードにバッテリーを固定している接着剤を剥がします。
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42mmモデルでは、バッテリー下に搭載されたシステムボードを、アクシデントでこじ開けてしまうことがあります。開口ピックを、バッテリーの下に差し込んだ際には、システムボードから離しながら持ち上げます。
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接着剤を弱めるため、必要に応じて、高濃度のイソプロピルアルコール(90%以上)をバッテリーの周辺と底に塗布してください。
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バッテリーが接続されたままの状態で、取り外すことは絶対にしないでください。
I tried removing the battery with the prying tool as instructed, but I think it may have slightly damaged the outer black plastic wrapping of the battery. Does this mean the battery is now damaged and needs to be replaced? Or is that just a cover around the battery and it doesn’t matter? I just don’t want any battery chemicals leaking out. Asking before I stick the screen back on the watch, I’ve done all the rest and it seems fine otherwise.
Hi Danae, the black plastic is technically just protective, but I would highly recommend replacing the battery. It’s possible there is additional unseen damage, and that plastic helps protect against swelling and normal wear of the battery inside the device.
I had to use the pry tool instead of the pick as the pick was not moving it. Was careful not to damage the battery but found it much easier to get movement and know exactly where I was prying with the pry tool.
Great tutorial but I’ve run into a problem changing the battery on my 42mm Original Series watch .
Getting the battery off with the pick has proven impossible and I’m about to try using the isopropyl alcohol.
• Can you provide any tips on how best to apply it, how long to give it to take effect, how often to apply etc. ?
• Given how narrow the gap is, also how to ensure nothing gets damaged by the alcohol?
• Is there any inherent risk in using the pry tool as Joey ended up doing?
Thanks for any advice
Hey so I’m about to do a repair on one and noticed that it’s drains of battery making it pretty much safe to work with but do I really need to remove the battery? Like can’t I just remove the screen right there and now?
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バッテリーを作業の邪魔にならない位置で掴み固定して、バッテリーケーブルコネクターを確認します。
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バッテリーケーブルコネクターをデバイスのバッテリーケーブルから分離させるため、プラスチック製の開封ツールをケース底に押し当ててこじ開けます。
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デバイスからバッテリーを取り出します。
Why should you remove the battery if you only need to replace the screen?...?
Douglas - this iFixit is for Apple Watch Battery Replacement - looks like you need to remove the screen to replace the battery...
jimvaughn6 - 返信
You will find that it is a good precautionary measure to disconnect the battery anytime you are repairing or replacing a screen as a short can occur when reconnecting the screen rendering it useless even if you have the unit turned off.
Bryan Solo - 返信
Great repair guide! You iFixit guys are awesome. Took me about 2 hours but then I am very careful and I replaced the touch sensor at the same time since I had it open anyway. Make sure you have at least 2, and better 3 adhesive gaskets. You need 2 and, well, it’s easy to mess one up while trying to place it.
Will removing the battery reset my icloud info? I have a guy who says he can do this, but i dont want him to run off with my watch after he replaces the battery…
I did not disconnect the battery first. After replacing the screen, it didn’t work. I have to assume I created a short. The watch will still turn on and haptics are evident, but the display doesn’t work. Are there any further repairs to save my watch at this point?
Yeah, sounds like you shorted part of the board. If it’s a Series 0 you’re working with, just go get a new one. Not worth fixing.
After replacing the battery I tried to turn it on and was presented with the red snake, I let it go for about an hour. When I checked it the red snake was gone, when I tried to turn it on it showed the Apple logo for about 4 seconds then went away. Is this normal, and if not what should I do?
I'm having a similar issue, did you manage to resolve it?
Did you calibrate the battery? You need to fill it up completely and let it continue to charge for a few hours first.
Is it possible to place a battery in and charge/start the watch without the screen plugged in? I want to check integrity of the battery. I was thinking to put it on charge in a closed clear plastic container without the new screen on to see if the battery is good. I ‘really’ do not want to wait another 20 days for a battery replacement and the battery has no visual punctures, front looks good and the back where the adhesive is (or were, rather) is deflated and slightly ‘knobby’. I do not know if it is damage or just how it generally looks like or maybe it looks like so because of the old adhesive. It is not inflated or abnormally expanded. Anyone who knows about this? I used a hair dryer directly on the watch opened to loosen up the adhesive, is that a no-no?
The battery swelled up and popped off the screen, so went directly to Step 12. Luckily the adhesive below the Force Touch sensor was intact. Was able to complete the fix using the Adhesive Strip after replacing the battery. Works again! Thanks!
Alex Danci - 返信
Hi Alex, I’m having the same problem with my series one with the screen has popped off due to the battery swelling. Did you have any issues starting from step 12?
Glenn -
The apple logo keeps flashing on my series 1 watch, tried force restart with crown and side button but it still just keeps on flashing the apple logo, does anyone have any advise? Is the issue with the battery? Do I need to get a new battery? I change the screen as the screen was broken and used the existing battery.
yes the issue was with battery, swapped with a new battery and booted up fine.
Having the same issue.good to hear it’s the battery and not me.
my watch was completely unloaded and stays in power saver mode when I charge. When I load in power saver mode the red light turns green for a few moments then switch back to red and no longer charge. When I remove the battery and put it back on the charger the charge starts again for a while and then stops. Do I need to change the battery? (apple watch serie 4 nike)
I replaced the screen and battery on mine. Now, it will not charge. Everything works fine, except charging. Any ideas why this may be?
My series one has two other cables/strings in the bottom left corner. Why do none of the pictures address this?
My watch hasn’t recalibrated with the new battery. Even a couple of weeks later I still get premature low battery - it can take hours for the final 10% to run out after the first 90% only took 9 hours. I left it off the charger for multiple days after installation and yet I could still quickly wake it up by pressing the crown to see the time reported with red numbers, so I don’t think it fully ran out.
Is there a way to force calibration? A Google search didn’t yield anything useful in the first several pages of results.
Hy Chris,
Same problem as you. Have you found a solution ?
luc poli -
Watching various videos and instructions from others, I found that there’s no need to remove the screen if your goal is to only swap out the battery.
It’s meant to make it easier to clean off the old glue and install some double-sided adhesive tape but it was far more simpler to loop the tape around the screen with a pair of tweezers than to try to wrangle with the metal bracket securing the display and digitiser cable connectors.
T-7000 glue can presumably be used in lieu of double-sided adhesive tape but it’s definitely more messier.
Anyway, I was initially quite annoyed about my battery expanding and popping the screen off but very quickly got over it when I realised it was a simple $20 DIY fix. Guess I got lucky this time..
I’m just replacing the battery. The screen and eveything is fine. While i’ve done just that and the new battery seems secure and eveything, i don’t know which is the adhesive strip that i’d use to re-secure the watch face back onto the watch itself. I don’t need a sensor because the watch face is fine, i just need the adhesive strip and i’m not seeing anything labelled as such in the kit. Ive got 2 tesa stickers (?) and one 3M sensor thing with a little compotent thingy attached to it. Which is the double sided adhesive that goes around the base of the watch to secure the face to the watch?? I was lucky in that my old swollen battery pushed the face off so replacing the battery was fairly easy. Now i just need to secure the face to the body. Any advice?
Have followed the guide as best I could but when everything is reconnected the watch will not power up. Have disconnected and reconnected several times but still the same. Fear that is only going to do damage. Watch was working before removing swollen battery which had caused screen to detach.
johnriding - 返信
How do you put in the battery and close the Watch
DOESN'T WORK FOR ME : Have followed the guide in every point but i have now the red snake.
Just after repairing i put the watch on the charger, let it some hours to charge.
when I took it, the watch was hot. It started up and was working. I let it discharge then put it back on the charger. After a few hours, it was not charged and showed the green snake. When I took it out, it showed the red snake.
Has anyone had this problem and found a solution?
Replaced my Series 1 battery/force sensor. The swelled original battery popped the watch open, so no prying necessary. However, the watch wouldn't work normally afterward, only displaying the "put me on my charger!" image of the charge cord with the disc on the end.
iFixIt was great about sending a replacement... battery, tools, force touch sensor, the whole kit, no charge. Replacement #2 required prying it open, but the force touch sensor stayed put, so I didn't have to replace that the second time. Watch is charging and behaving normally as I calibrate the battery. Can unlock etc.
Be very gentle/careful with the tiny force touch sensor screw. A great comment above says if you lose it, you can put in bit of a pick to press the sensor snug where the screw would hold it. I strongly recommend using a cheap hands-free, head-mounted magnifier w/light for this job. A loop of tape to stick the watch to a surface to hold it still while fiddling with the tiny cable connections was a HUGE help. Take your time!
Replaced my Series 1 battery/force sensor. The swelled original battery popped the watch open, so no prying necessary. However, the watch wouldn't work normally afterward, only displaying the "put me on my charger!" image of the charge cord with the disc on the end.
iFixIt was great about sending a replacement... battery, tools, force touch sensor, the whole kit, no charge. Replacement #2 required prying it open, but the force touch sensor stayed put, so I didn't have to replace that the second time. Watch is charging and behaving normally as I calibrate the battery. Can unlock etc.
Be very gentle/careful with the tiny force touch sensor screw. A great comment above says if you lose it, you can put in bit of a pick to press the sensor snug where the screw would hold it. I strongly recommend using a cheap hands-free, head-mounted magnifier w/light for this job. A loop of tape to stick the watch to a surface to hold it still while fiddling with the tiny cable connections was a HUGE help. Take your time!
Bonjour, connaissez-vous par hasard la référence de la batterie pour AppleWatch 2 de 42mm ?
Merci
Bonjour @drakkar1er35709
Nous la vendons dans notre boutique : Apple Watch (42 mm Series 2) Battery Si vous avez besoin d'autres infos, veuillez contacter notre service client au support@ifixit.com (pour la boutique américaine) ou au eustore@ifixit.com (pour la boutique européenne et française).
Ce sera un plaisir de vous aider !
Bien à vous, Claire
Yeah, after reading all this - no way I’m trying this myself!!
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プラスチック製の開封ツールを使って、ブラケットをディスプレイ側にひっくり返し、スピーカーから折り上げます。
I managed to replace the force touch sensor without removing the screen
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この手順で使用する道具：Tweezers$4.99
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同時に、右側の小さなタブ下に小サイズのマイナスドライバー(1mm) を差し込みます。
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最後に、タブの裏側に1本の指をのせて、指とドライバーで、ブラケットをきつく挟み、カバーを外します。
Also agree: a little too much pressure and the ribbon cable tears at the point it enters the bracket. Take it SLOW and make sure you have really good light and vision. Orient yourself.
Dave Varon - 返信
And this is where things went south for me too. Ended up disconnecting from the rest of the watch and the Taptic Engine. I read through this and watched this portion of Ifixit’s YouTube video no less than 15 times, so confusing they way it’s worded and the pictures didn’t help. Now I’m out of luck and out of $190.
Pas de problèmes me particulier à cette étape. Le fait de pousser très légèrement sur la petite languette qui dépasse a suffit, il n’y a vraiment pas besoin de forcer.
If you lift out carefull the whole lit / coverbox of the screen connector between your thumb and your pointing finger.
Then you can peel the cover easy up with your other pointing finger Nail.
You can feel the smal clip with your nail and lift easy up.
It works fine by me without any metal of plastic tool.
I also tore the cable, I assume that once that happens I’m screwed? I have a battery and force touch sensor if anyone needs one for free let me know!
Evert is correct - this can be done with a fingernail and does not need to be hard. Seems much safer.
Evert is correct, using fingernail works.
It is possible to replace the force touch sensor without removing the screen
There isn’t really a latch that goes with this. Just use the screwdriver to create a bit of space and it comes right off. I assume where most people go wrong is by pinching the case together as they try to separate it. Also, to reduce your chance of breaking it, There is no need to bring it to the nearly 90 degree angle as depicted and 50-60 degree angle allows it to pop back a bit without damaging anything.
WATCH OUT! It is possible to slip with the screwdriver and completely bungle the connector that the screen plugs into. This is impossible to recover from unless you have the time and microsoldering skills to replace the cable that the screen plugs into.
Adam Roach - 返信
I skipped this part as I found it difficult to do and almost made me damaged the entire cover when I tried inserting the screw driver head to the holes beside side it and prying the side part too. So I stopped trying. Ended up looping the adhesive around the screen careful not to touch the adhesive’s sticky side. (I replaced the adhesive along with the swollen battery. ) It was a success.
Note: I should have zoomed in the photo and now it makes more sense.
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ディスプレイデーターとデジタイザーケーブルの接続を外すためにテコの原理を利用して丁寧に開きます。
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ディスプレイを取り出します。
So how do you get the display off the screen or did I already mess it up cause I just did it
Hello guys , appreciate the effort that u guys are doing , have one question though , I own a series 2 watch and I was thinking about changing my screen caz is cracked but I can't find that many lcd for 2 series , and now my question Would a 1 series lcd match my 2series watch? Keep on searching but no answers!!! Many thanks
Great repair guide! You iFixit guys are awesome. Took me about 2 hours but then I am very careful and I replaced the touch sensor and the battery at the same time since I had it open anyway. Make sure you have at least 2, and better 3 adhesive gaskets. You need 2 and, well, it’s easy to mess one up while trying to place it.
I followed the above instructions and successfully replaced the broken screen, however the new screen won’t pair to my iphone or fully boot up, only goes to a certain point (Pairing stage) and then starts over; any suggestions on what the problem could be?
I agree with Jeff53, by far the retention clip bracket was the most nerve racking part on my first attempt. I found that inserting a sharp pointed exacto knife blade between the bracket and metal tops of the screen connectors along the edge that has the smaller clip (closest side to the battery connector) while it was still in a glued down position actually works easier than prying the entire connector up first as done in this guide and then trying to hold it with tweezer while inserting a flat tip screwdriver into that very tiny slit between the bracket and the top of the connectors. Once the excto blade is inserted, just a little twist of the blade pops the retention clip off easily.
One other suggestion is to plan on replacing the force touch pressure sensor gasket any time you pry a screen off one of these watches. They are very inexpensive now ($5 range) and easily damaged when prying up the screen or when trying to remove glass shards embedded along the edge of the screen. Replacing the gasket also assures new, fresh adhesive to hold the new screen onto the watch body properly and keeping water resistance intact. If you skip the gasket replacement, plan on a high likelihood of the new screen coming loose and having to take it all back apart again just to replace that $5 adhesive gasket down the road.
how do you put the screen back on
hi, after some advice. After replacing the battery and force touch pressure sensor i have no touch control of the screen. i’ve redone the procedure several times and everything looks perfect. but no touch. touch was working before the battery repplacement. i see no tears in the cables and i havent forced anything.
Kevin Rook - 返信
Hi Kevin
I have the same issue. Did you manage to find a solution or reason?
Thanks
It is possible to replace the force touch sensor without removing the screen
Great guide! I followed each of the steps, took my time and I’m actually successful. I replaced the new adhesive and reversed the steps. Took a little over an hour but I read more than once and really, really took my time. It took patience and the right tools. Thank you!
Did I miss how to make sure the face is secured once again after repairs are made?
Those steps are part of the Force Touch Sensor replacement guide as is indicated on the last step of this guide.
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デバイスを再組み立てするには、 Apple Watchの接着剤の交換 ガイドをご利用ください。
デバイスを再組み立てするには、 Apple Watchの接着剤の交換 ガイドをご利用ください。
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69 件のコメント
Does anyone know if I can replace my glass display for the saphier one??
Yes, they are cross compatible. Look under features at Apple Watch (42 mm, Original & Series 1) Screen
First of all WHERE CAN WE BUY A OEM GENUINE AUTHENTIC APPLE GLASS REPLACEMENT?
My question is if Apple doesnt sell oem genuine ones who will?
There are replacement touch screen/digitizer available on eBay. But the question is how do you separate the OLED display from your damaged touch screen to just replace the glass?
Exactly. thats what ifixit sells, they should have a guide for it.
Andrew -
I found a video in German that shows this. I can't believe this iFixit guide fails to go into the crucial steps of the repair it's supposed to be about! Beware, this is not something a home hobbyist is going to be able to do. I got most of the way through my repair before I came across this german vid, and now I'm going to try to source a complete glass+LCD unit. Separating the LCD from the glass is hard enough, but you need special equipment to bond the old LCD to the new glass, and there's a good chance the two won't talk to each other anyway, based on the comments below.
Pete -
That’s simply not possible, as they’re laminated insanely close together. You kind of have to replace the OLED too, as they’re permanently bonded together.
Can somebody help me with links or numbers from where I can buy the display for my Apple Watch 42mm. Can't seem to find anywhere.
Ifixit sells all the parts you need for this repair on all Apple Watch models
Can somebody help me with website links as to where I can but Apple Watch display 42mm. I have cracked mine and can't find anywhere online to buy the spare part to replace it myself.
Ifixit sells all the parts you need for this repair
This should work exactly the same even if the screen is already cracked
Can somebody help me with links or numbers from where I can buy the display for my Apple Watch 42mm. Can't seem to find anywhere.
You can find all parts on ifixit
Can I replace Apple Watch stainless steel screen with a screen from aluminum Apple Watch?
Yes, they are cross compatible. Look under features here: Apple Watch (42 mm, Original & Series 1) Screen
You should start a business where as you fix these Apple Watch screens and charge for it. I would gladly pay send my watch to an independent contractor of apple to replace my Apple Watch screen if I could find one.
Where can I find someone to replace my 38mm watch screen? Just the screen is cracked, everything else is working fine. Anywhere in Johannesburg?
Ok I successfully fix my watch screen (glass only had to cut the lcd off and reattach with that loca glue) looks great but the digitizer will not work. I have read on many forms that they are serialized if so can that be fixed if so how? Has anyone successfully repaired an iwatch that works fully?
I'd like to know this too!
Ifixit sell replacement adhesive for both sizes of apple watch
Hi, will the screen off a 42mm Series 2 Apple Watch fit, and work, with a 42mm Series 1 watch?
Unfortunately I believe they use two different types of connectors
Step 21-22 is a lot more difficult than displayed here so be warned! Inside where they advise you to put the tweezer is right up against the connector and any movement of the tweezer in this position will no doubt damage the connector.
There isn't even a warning posted at these steps which is terrible for fixit!!! check the net for other videos on how to get this little box assembled apart - there are far better ways I discovered but too late for me :(
Brent what happened to your watch?
I might have similar problem
Trop compliqué :-(
J'ai finalement fait réparé ma montre ici :
https://www.atelierfamilial.fr/reparatio...
Pour moins de 200€, avec une garantie d'un an.
@+
Paul
After replacing my Apple Watch screen and digitizer, my battery lasts for 3-4 hours, Digital Crown is not working and hart rate ca't be measured. But the rest works fine, I'm not sure why. Can someone suggest me troubleshooting path?
Some people on the Internet of said that this repair is not possible without losing some functionality, is that true?
rickcostel - 返信
Is it possible to use a Apple Watch Series 1 LCD and digitizer to replace a cracked screen on the Series 2 model? Thanks!
Please i need to know if this is possible too
I don’t thinks so, as they both use different connectors
Hi,
Thantk to this guide I’ve succesfully replaced the digitizer on 38mm!
Everything works fine but display is not as bright as it should be.
It is OK during start, the apple logo is bright, then it goes much much darker.
I’ve checked the brightness settings obviously :).
Any idea why it goes darker when finishing booting?
I would like to get a new screen for my Apple Watch (Series 2) 42mm.
Do you sell it? Or dou you know where can I buy it?
Ifixit sell them
Is this the same process for a Series 2? And is the screen the same? I am trying to fix my Series 2 watch. Thank you
The screen is not the same, but the process is
I had a company fix my Apple Watch when I got it make it seems darker and isn’t as bright as before I took it in. Any clue as to what could have happened? Please email if u have an idea
Is this screen compatible with Series 3 Apple Watch?
Jai Aenugu - 返信
No, as they use different connectors
Is this compatible with Apple watch series 3?
Jai Aenugu - 返信
The process is, but not the screen
Is this compatible with Apple watch series 3?
No… u have to get the one for series 3:-/
MzPhixit -
I replaced one of these and the screen popped off after they started wearing it. Somehow it didn’t break despite detaching and flinging onto a tile floor, but I still haven’t figure out how to put it back together and be able to trust it. You’d think 300LSE is trustworthy (it is for iPads), but not this time :(
Great guide, but can I just confirm one thing? My series 1 has a cracked screen, but the display including the touch functionality seems to still work perfectly, and the only reason I’m not wearing it since the crack is that there are tiny sharp bits of glass. Given that the touch screen and display seem ok, is it possible to just replace the glass, as opposed to the whole display as per this how-to ?
cheers,
Ian
There is, but it is way too complicated… involves using a thin wire to separate the digitiser (touch screen) from the lcd display which is very labour intensive, then using a special laminate, which you can get, but then also you need the industrial machinery to bind them together… this is why even though I have the exact same problem as you I am thinking of replacing the whole screen with lcd. I will post a reply here if/when I am successful!
Danae -
Fait sans difficulté, fonctionne parfaitement.
Well thanks for the video. But I Destroy the battery cable while try to hold the cable down to remove the battery…..after that I realized it wasn't realy nesessary to remove the batterie to change the display….So better just leave battery :-/
after we replace the screen, we can use the mode water resistant?
Maria.
Maria Gili - 返信
I got a new screen. But the watch only shows the apple logo when it’s charging. And when I take the watch off the charger it doesn’t show anything.
Is there a person/vendor that buys salvaged parts? I have a case, battery, etc that are intact but the display and screen are beyond repair.
Any one does the job on apple watch 4? How much?
From where I can buy lcd screen for Apple Watch?
Uae123uae@gmail.com
Is it necessary to replace force touch sensor when replacing screen? Also, if you reuse original force touch sensor, do I need to get two adhesive strips, one to stick sensor to case and one to seal watch?
I'm a bit lost and out of loop probably, but do the series 4,5 and 6 have the same display? As in I can replace the Series 6 display with the Series 5 one? (44mm)
I can’t get close to getting the screen loose. I’ve tried several different spudgers, even the iFixit one. But nothing works. I heated the watch with a hair dryer until it was too hot to hold except with a cloth but still no joy. I’ve got a series 5 watch with a ceramic case. Tips and suggestions?
Any recommendations on who can replace my watch 6 screen, I’m in Detroit Michigan. Thanks in advance.
