Thanks for looking into this. I'll reach out to you if I notice the problem the next time I author a new repair guide.

Josh: glad you were able to fix your mouse with glue.

Sometimes, what looks like a cheap plastic rivet is simply a bump of molded plastic that is pushed through a hole in a piece of metal. Then the plastic bump is melted, to secure a tab to a plastic base. In a case like this, the first thing I do is to see if I can hold the parts in place and then use the hot tip of my soldering iron to melt the plastic just enough to form a new plastic rivet to keep the parts together.

I appreciate your kind words. It can be challenging to continue after a damaged part breaks while you are repairing it. Sometimes there is nothing you can do; however, in other cases you can harvest an identical working part from a similar dead item. In other cases you might be able to fabricate a replacement part that works, if you use your imagination. For example, once a plastic part broke on the mounting bracket for my bicycle trailer. I cut off the end of a wooden broom handle that had a similar diameter, did a little drilling and shaping, and fabricated an adequate replacement part.

Usé Google Translate para traducir del inglés al español.

Lamentablemente, algunas de las piezas pequeñas son frágiles y se rompen fácilmente. Aún así, te animo a que sigas intentando reparar tus dispositivos electrónicos averiados. Con el tiempo, aprenderás a trabajar con estos dispositivos mediante prueba y error, y tu tasa de éxito en las reparaciones mejorará.

Sorry, it isn't clear to me which metal part you mean. If it is what I call the thin metal collar, you don't need that at all if you leave the hose clamp in place to secure the hose to the pump body.

If this tool is no longer available for free download from the Toshiba web site, I would start by sending a message to Toshiba support, asking them if they could please put the tool back up there. https://support.dynabook.com/support/mod...

Thanks for your kind words before expressing your frustration. To find conducting paint, fire up your favorite search engine and look for these words (without quotes): "conducting paint for remote control repair".

Another option is to purchase a so-called Universal Remote. These can typically be programmed to control any popular manufacturer's devices, by pressing a setup key and then entering the numeric code (as specified in the universal remote's documentation) corresponding to the manufacturer. Sometimes a single manufacturer will have several different numeric codes, so you'll have to try all of them until you find the one that works for your particular model.

Everything is salvageable at some level. The more important thing is to approach a repair with the spirit of adventure. Take photos and notes. If you learn something useful, write up a repair guide or even a teardown guide that may be of value to others. I would start by doing the same things I describe in my guide: locate all of the fuses and check every single one of them for electrical continuity. Looked for burn marks on circuit boards or on components. Perhaps you can spot something obvious that is at fault.

Nice repair. Thanks for sharing.

It looks as if you could replace the battery without doing any soldering. Once you break the yellow plastic surrounding the battery, can't you simply slide the battery out of the metal holder and slide in a new one?

Something is broken on the ifixit site. The introduction of my newly-completed guide appears for an instant and then vanishes, leaving the reader at Step 1. Site support should look into this. A possible cause is that this guide used to refer to another guide, but now my guide is fully self-contained.