はじめに

これは機能しないボリュームコントールのケーブルを交換するための手順です。音量をコントロールしたり、呼び出し音/サイレントのコントロール機能を制御する電気スイッチを含みます。

実際のボタンカバーを交換したい場合は、次のガイドも参照ください: iPhone 6 のボリュームコントロールボタンの交換

解体作業を始める前にiPhone6のバッテリー残量を25%以下まで消費してください。アクシデントで充電されたリチウムイオンバッテリーにで穴を開けてしまうと、引火や爆発を起こすことがあります。
  • 解体作業を始める前にiPhone6のバッテリー残量を25%以下まで消費してください。アクシデントで充電されたリチウムイオンバッテリーにで穴を開けてしまうと、引火や爆発を起こすことがあります。

  • 解体作業を始める前にiPhoneの電源を切ります。

  • Lightningコネクターの両脇に付けられた2本の3.6mmのペンタローブネジを取り外します。

When reconnecting be VERY careful not to over tighten. The connectors on the screen that these 3.6mm Pentalobe screws lock with are notorious for breaking off

Blair Tryba - 返信

what do i do if ive managed to tighten them too hard and now they wont come off?

kristian686 -

Before opening the phone, I gently warmed it using a buckwheat heating pad. This made removal of the adhesive strips (steps 20 to 24) easy.

Howard Bales - 返信

Exactly what I did as well, the gently warming made the adhesive removal work like a charm. The heat as well help to lift the screen easily, no need for the prying tools for me to open te phone.

For the adhesive removal just pull it slowly to the bottom of the phone and keep in under tension.

On reassembly, turn on the phone after getting all connectors back in place to verify all is working fine before putting all screws back in their spot.

Maarten Vergauwen -

I put mine back together but mine looks very different than this one. Why is it that when I make a call I cannot hear through the ear piece and have to put it on speaker. Also my screen doesn't go black when my face touches it

Bailey Wilson - 返信

Hey Bailey, which repair were you attempting? Is it possible you have a 6s, or maybe a 6 Plus? You may have better luck with faster troubleshooting if you post in our Answer Forum!

Sam Lionheart -

See its a long time ago you had this issue. You can try to remove the cable from front camera/sensor/earpiece from the motherboard port and gently push it back on. All the problems you relate to is thru the same cable. If this dont solve your problem, check if the earpiece is correctly placed onto the polarity poles, and that the proximity sensor is lying right down into the corresponding socket. If something is blocking the sensor, yeah then the screen wont turn on/off when you put it onto your ear.

Kenneth Hilstan -

You only need 000 Screwdriver for ALL!

Tom Long - 返信

If you skip to STEP 36, you’ll see that you’ll need a STANDOFF SCREWDRIVER BIT to be able to get all the way to Step 39 and remove the antenna. Read through the comments, and you’ll see how frustrated people have gotten since my kit didn’t include the Standoff screwdriver, and I had to dig around for and carefully use a flathead, which took a very long time. If you can’t get that Standoff screw off, you’ll end up with a partially disassembled iPhone and unable to progress. Make sure you have this tool before you proceed.

Brian Mojica -

what do i do if all the screws fail to come off and if i don’t have some of the tools like the iSclack

Brandon Kato - 返信

I see in the preamble that when you replace your logic board, you would lose touch id functionality, so my question is what if you have the homebutton and thus the fingerprint reader for the logic board replacement, would touch id work?

socratesmens - 返信

The guide for the iPhone6 battery replacement needs to be revised. There are a couple of issues.

1) While the battery cover has two screws, they are different lengths. Since they are very small, it can be hard to see the difference (until one tries to screw the smaller one into the longer hole). The video needs to mention this.

2) The application of the adhesive strip if very different from what is mentioned. Also, there is a “one piece plastic” applique, and it is very unforgiving. The video should show this process in more detail.

I believe the attention to this detail would help folks correctly install their iPhone 6 batteries, and with the recent Apple disclosed battery problem, would continue to show that iFixit is very committed to the end-user.

Gary Long - 返信

Please reconsider this repair!

Before you remove any screws, please consider taking your part to a local repair pro and asking them to install it. The many cables connecting the screen assembly to the body of the iPhone are unruly and hard to reconnect. I knicked a cable and thus rendered the entire assembly and repair unfixable. I consider myself capable and tech savvy, but it’s too easy to make a tiny mistake and ruin your phone.

Bruce Coriell - 返信

I felt a bit silly getting stuck at the end of a long repair, unable to screw one of these last screws back in. What worked was gently pinching the phone above and below the screw, to make sure the screen and back were perfectly aligned.

Matt D - 返信

Apple edits posts on their Communities website that link to this fix page justifying as follows:

“We’ve edited your post because following the procedures at the site you provided may lead to damage to the user’s device.”

What is certain is that following Apple Support’s advice of resetting our phones again and again never works whereas this fix works. Apparently Apple does not want people to know that their hardware fails and can be fixed, because then they would need to explain why they don’t offer neither the fixing service nor the fixing advice by directing us to this website.

Brice - 返信

Before you get started, I suggest you confirm you are replacing the correct camera. If you are thinking of a camera, the front is the side of the device with the main lens. On an iPhone this is actually known as the rear facing camera. Once the phone is disassembled your orientation can be distorted and it is not that hard to fail to realize your are replacing the wrong camera. Doh!

William Miller - 返信

I found it very useful to use a magnet sheet when doing these repairs. I use electrical tape or a sharpie to make a grid, and place each micro screw in a separate box on the grid.

I work directly over the magnet sheet, so that if something drops I have a better chance at not losing it.

If you do lose a screw, go over the work area with a fridge magnet. It will pick it up if it hasn’t popped too far away.

Megan Telliano - 返信

次の3つの手順はiSlackのデモンストレーションです。iPhone6を安全に開口するために便利なツールです。複数のデバイスを修理する方にはお勧めです。iSlackをご利用にならない場合は下の3つの手順をスキップしてください。
  • 次の3つの手順はiSlackのデモンストレーションです。iPhone6を安全に開口するために便利なツールです。複数のデバイスを修理する方にはお勧めです。iSlackをご利用にならない場合は下の3つの手順をスキップしてください。

  • ご使用前に、iSclackの中央にプラスチック製のデプスケージが付いている場合は取り出してください。 iPhone 6のような大型のデバイスには必要ありません。

  • iSlackの持ち手を閉じて吸盤カップを開きます。

There was only one suction cup in my kit. Why show the need for two if ifixit provides only one?

Lisa Klitses - 返信

Do Not Worry. The Islack comes seprate. This guide shows you how to remove the front screen with a normal suction cup.

Owen -

I found that the single suction cup from the kit worked very well. It didn’t take that much force to separate the front panel from the phone. I think any suction cup that you are able to get a firm grip on will probably work as well. There isn’t any adhesive holding the front panel in. It just snaps in and out. If you have a cracked screen and no screen protector, it may be hard to get a good suction seal. If that’s the case, someone else here suggested applying clear tape to the front glass to get a good surface for applying the suction cup. In my case, I already had a screen protector that was still intact so the suction cup sealed easily.

fiftysomething - 返信

  • iPhoneの下側に吸盤カップを挟みます。

    • iSclackの上側の吸盤カップがホームボタンの少し上に位置するように装着します。(ボタン上に重ねないでください)

  • ハンドルを開いてiSclackの吸盤カップを閉めます。吸盤カップを取り付けて、しっかりと本体の両側に押し当てます。

コメントを追加する

  • iPhoneをしっかりと持ち、 iSclackの吸盤カップを両側に開くため、ハンドルを閉めてフロントパネルを背面ケースから引き離します。

  • iSclack は安全にiPhoneを開口するためにデザインされています。パーツの取り外しには最適なツールですが、本体ケーブルにダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。

  • 2つの吸盤カップをiPhoneから取り外します。

  • 次の3つの手順をスキップして手順8へお進みください。

The iSclack opened the iPhone 6 with little effort. I could have given even less opening pressure than I did. Fantastic tool. Worth the investment.

Tim Dougherty - 返信

It's never mentioned anywhere that with iSclack even if you save the cables, glass easily detach from plastic frame. When you ri-assembly the phone, this will involve a glass not perfectly adherent to the body. In my opinion is better if you help yourself with a spudger to lift frame from rear case when you are using the iSclack.

marco bigoni - 返信

Holy cow this tool made it so much easier than a spudger and didn't damage anything. Totally worth the investment.

Fratelli '85 - 返信

Really need to get one of these. so much easier then the basic type.

Richard W - 返信

  • iSclackをお持ちでない場合は、シングルタイプの吸盤カップを利用してフロントパネルを持ち上げます。

    • ホームボタンの真上のスクリーン上に吸盤カップを押し当てます。

    • 吸盤カップがスクリーンに固定するように、しっかりと装着します。

This is nearly impossible on a screen that is shattered

Erik Madsen - 返信

You can put clear tape over it. it works.

Owen -

Try putting a strip of packing tape on the screen. That will make the surface smooth and help keep the suction.

Joanna - 返信

John, your lips move but I can't hear what you're saying. ;-)

TimD -

Argh!! Don’t put the suction cup over the home button to pull. While it works, it also breaks the screen at the weak point below the home button. Ask me how I know.

-Tom

tombuy - 返信

  • 片手で iPhoneを押さえながら、吸盤カップを持ち上げて、背面ケースからフロントパネルを離します。

    • 時間をかけてゆっくりと、同じ強さ加減で作業を進めます。ディスプレイアセンブリは他のデバイスに比べてより強固に接着されています。

  • プラスチック製開口ツールを使って差し込み、リアケースからアセンブリを丁寧にこじ開けます。同時に吸盤カップで引き上げます。

  • フロントパネルアセンブリとリアケースを固定しているクリップが幾つかあります。吸盤カップとプラスチック製開口ツールを同時に使いながら、フロントパネルアセンブリを開けていきます。

Pulling up on the suction cup helped get me started, but what worked for me was pulling up gently while sliding the plastic prybar gently along the seam towards the top of the phone (on both sides), and it came open without having to put excess pressure on the suction.

lauren carroll - 返信

Same here, just open the gap a little with the suction cup and then use the opening tool on both sides.

Tobias - 返信

Along with the suction cup I used some Command adhesive strips to hold the bottom of the phone to a workbench as they easily pull/stretch away when you need to remove them!

Dion Sosa - 返信

That’s a very clever idea, thank you!

Megan Telliano -

Suction cup pictured here is the older version (with ring). I have one from my previous battery replacement on iPhone 5 and used that instead. The new one (gray with blue handle) kept on popping off. Overall, popping out screen was not as hard as it seems with these instructions, but do proceed with caution.

youmingc - 返信

Dion's idea to use removable adhesive strips was great, even better, use it to attach the iPhone to a clipboard. This will allow for a sort of Lazy Susan function while you work. I also used adhesive strips to attach my iPhone box to the clipboard as well and used that as a back rest (with rubber band) for the screen as pictured in steps below. This allowed me to very comfortably skip steps 13-19 as others have commented.

Adam - 返信

The new suction cup (plastic handle) is not so suctiony. Prepare for this thing to pop off a couple of times when opening the case.

Chet Seidel - 返信

Be very careful because it feels that it holds very tight but with the last pull it can fly away.

Kristaps Grinbergs - 返信

Be very careful when you pull up the display! Do not keep your other hand on the display surface or you can broke it!

Luke Man - 返信

I did all the suggestions here and it just wasn’t moving until I repositioned the suction cup up over the home button for more leverage. It finally came up enough to slip the plastic opening tool under the edge.

Alan Derrick - 返信

  • 吸盤カップの持ち手(ノブ)を引っ張り、吸引力を緩めます。

  • 吸盤カップを本体から取り外します。

コメントを追加する

  • 本体上部先端を蝶番にして、リアケースからフロントパネルアセンブリのホームボタンの先端を持ち上げて、iPhoneを開口します。

    • フロントパネルの上部端に沿って留められた幾つかのクリップは蝶番の留め金になっています。

    • 再組み立ての際は、クリップをリアケース上部端の真下に並べます。フロントパネルとリアケースの上部先端が重なるようにスライドします。

It's not clear from the instructions but it is shown correctly in the pictures: when the front panel assembly is just open (at a small angle with the rear case) pull the top edge clips out of the rear case to slightly separate the two components, then swing the front panel assembly away from the rear case. I assume not doing so would potentially damage the connecting ribbon and/or the alignment clips. Just a guess...

ethanlust - 返信

Yes! I wish I had read this before working on my phone. I read the instructions as they are and slowly started to open the case. This is when I heard my screen crack. So in the future, slowly open and when you are about 40% of the way, pull the screen forward so that the top clips pull away (we are talking a cm at most). Sigh just ordered a new screen

Albert -

Ein Tipp zum Zusammenbau: Das Display ca. in 45 Grad halten und vorsichtig an die obere Kante des Gehäuses drücken, bis es bündig und glatt anliegt.

Dann das Display langsam und vorsichtig anklappen und die Clips von oben nach unten festdrücken.

SAS - 返信

This entire process went smooth. Final step of re-assembly , the assembly does not seat into the framing. The white gasket seats on one side not the the volume button side. Alignment looks good. How much pressure does one apply on the reassembly?

Bruce Fournier - 返信

My problem is the front panel does not want to joint together with the rear panel… it feel like the front is too big but it look perfect but does not clip in place… Help…

Tony Chicoine - 返信

same problem, in the final step, the screen does not fit entirely. it looks like the size is not 100% correct, but 99%… one side of the case stays open…

Andrea Andreoli - 返信

Same thing here, with a new screen it doesn’t fit quite right during re-assembly. It sits just a little bit higher and doesn’t look seated.

Adam Carl - 返信

Some people have noted that the screen doesn’t seat properly on the case. Here’s how I solved it:

The issue is that rectangular brackets on the back of the display aren’t latching with the corresponding clips in the base. I think the brackets are missing the gap between the spring plate and bracket with the latching bumps on it on the base. Here’s my solution:

Position the top of the display slightly below the top of the case so the clips on the back top of the display start to engage with the phone case. Important: don’t push it all the way up!

Now press both sides of the top part of the display until the display seats on the back. Make sure both sides are flush with the case.

Repeat for the middle of the display. The bottom of the display will remain bent up because it will interfere with the bottom edge of the case.

Now push/slide the display up so the top of the display lines up with the top of the case. The bottom should then snap into the base, and the display should be flush with the case all round.

nigel - 返信

  • 作業をスムーズに進めるため、ディスプレイを約90度まで開いて衝立などを使用して固定します。

    • 緊急の場合は、未開封の飲料水缶を利用できます。

  • 衝立にディスプレイを固定する際は、輪ゴムを使用して留めてください。ディスプレイケーブルに不要な圧力がかかるのを防いでくれます。

A picture is worth a thousand words! This idea at Step 9 is perfect and you can definitely do the entire rest of the battery replacement WITHOUT having to disconnect the display from the rear case. Just leave it secured exactly as shown in this picture and you're good to go. I just completed the repair and the most difficult part was just lining up the new battery connector! Excellent instructions and generally EASY repair because this step was so helpful!

Ryan - 返信

I did the same. Made the work go so much smoother!

dcommins - 返信

I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you risk tearing the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. Sadness.

Ergolad - 返信

I'm going to try it this way, because the odds of damaging the connector during removal seem greater than the risk of ripping the cable, however, I plan to cradle the phone in the "L" of simple, sheet metal bookend, and secure it using blue painter's tape. Seems more stable.

bobcloninger - 返信

If you do this step carefully- (rubber band the front panel, and carefully peel away the battery adhesive) you can SKIP 13 THRU 19!

Larry House - 返信

Rubber band and a large can of soup held the front in place. Go slow, steady firm pressure. Take the vibrator out though. Makes pulling the adhesive tape out much easier. Great video and written instructions!

Sherman Homan - 返信

I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you WILL tear the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. MUCH Sadness.

todd adelman - 返信

I decided to do the repair on my iPhone 6 without detaching the screen. I ended up screwing two pieces of 3/4” x 3” x 6” wood together at right angles. I used 2 rubber bands to secure the screen to the vertical piece and 1 rubber band to secure the base to the horizontal piece. One of the two adhesive strips broke and I had to really work to get the battery out. The rubber bands held everything together nicely. The wood pieces were slightly wider than the phone which made it easy to hold everything together while I was working the adhesive strip out.

brian - 返信

Mine worked great install went perfect. Was like a new phone… for a couple months. Phone may be failing for other reasons, but there’s a ghost image in the shape of the battery in the display now. Very strange. The ifixit kit did give life to it for a while though.

smahar - 返信

Hey Smahar! If you still have your tools, I’d recommend opening your phone up to make sure the battery isn’t swollen. If it’s pressing against the screen, it’s possible that is the case. If it is swollen, I highly recommend you replace it, it can be dangerous to leave it in place.

Sam Lionheart -

  • 次のプラスネジをバッテリーコネクターブラケットから取り外します。

    • 2.2 mm ネジー1本

    • 3.2 mmネジー1本

ok well what exactly does 2.2 mm and 3.2 mm mean if a #000 is needed? why even mention those numbers?

Cory Berends -

Those are the screw lengths. They’re important to mention so that you don’t put the longer screw in the wrong place. If you start mixing up screws, you can end up with permanent logic board damage.

Jeff Suovanen -

I replace the antenna in the upper left-hand corner an in the bottom middle with the lightning connector because After disassemble it completely i lose my ability to have Cellular. After i replace both antennas i can find i nevertheless have cellular. anybody an idea ?

kupies2011 - 返信

With the phillips screwdriver included in the repair kit I cannot unscrew any of the interior screws because it is not the right size even though according to these comments all of the screws are #000 and on the product listing it says that the screwdriver I got is #000. Any suggestions?

Wilson Styres - 返信

Sounds like you need to adjust your technique. The included PH000 driver works fine; I’ve done many many phones with it.

Jeff Suovanen -

Upon reassembly I found the Red 2.2 mm screw won't seat. Is it possible it sheared off? The Orange 3.2 is solid in both holes but 2.2 doesn't securely fit in either.. Should I just leave off the 2.2?

smcgreg - 返信

My phone was missing this screw also!

Gail Starr -

Duh, had the cover on the wrong way. Switched it around and the screw fit. (:

smcgreg - 返信

When I insert the 3.2 mm screw... The phone shuts down, very weird because am not seeing what could cause this short...

Juan Monge - 返信

I’m having the same issue. Thinking about just leaving that screw out. Did you ever get your’s working?

Cavell Blood -

Using the Phillips 000 screwdriver included in the kit, I am able to remove the 3.2 mm screw, but not the 2.2 mm one.

Dan Solovay - 返信

None of the screwdriver heads in this kit are big enough for these screws!!! I now have an open iphone and i have to go to the store to buy a different screwdriver..I do not recommend this

Elaine Eason - 返信

I was unable to unscrew the 2.2mm screw with the provided screwdriver. I was able to unscrew the 3.2mm screw but not the 2.2mm

Jameison Martin - 返信

I'm stuck in the same boat here. The one screw came out no problem but the second isn't catching at all.

Brian Adams - 返信

Stuck with Jameison and Brian here... 2.2mm won't catch with all three provided screwdrivers.

Matthijs Rog - 返信

Agreed, the screwheads included in this kit didn’t work for me either. Fortunately my own toolbox has an appropriate screwdriver…. Seeing as how we are paying for this kit so we don’t need to purchase extra tools, iFixit should really include screwheads that actually work!

Priscilla Cheng - 返信

When putting everything back together, I took care of steps 10-12 (or, more accurately 12-10) after reinserting the SIM (so between steps 20 & 19). It was easier to do before dealing with reconnecting the screen.

dhcohen67 - 返信

why do i buy a kit from you guys but you don’t provide the necessary tools for unscrewing

i dont have any screwdrivers at home the 2.2mm simply wont come off its ridiculous now i just have an open phone

Michael Amara - 返信

I had to use Phillips #00 for the 3.2mm (orange) and #0 for the 2.2mm (red). The #000 screw driver came in the toolkit is useless on both screws so I had to go out and buy new ones from a hardware store…

Tung-wei Lin - 返信

My two screws are the same diameter - 1.1mm, taking a Philips PH000 driver. However the one toward the middle is 3.3mm long, the one nearer the side is 2.2mm long.

Alastair Lack - 返信

So my kit didn’t come with the right screw driver, I should have read the comments first before buying.

My iPhone 6 battery connector bracket has 3.2mm which the PH000 works. But the 2.2mm didn’t work with included Y000.

What screw driver do I need for the 2.2 mm screw??

John Palaganas - 返信

The heads on both of those screws are identical. The included PH000 is the correct driver. There are no Y000 screws anywhere in the iPhone 6.

Jeff Suovanen -

The Phillips in the repair kit worked fine. I did 2 phones with it.

Eric Craumer - 返信

Just a followup to all the comments above for anyone who is confused: the drivers included in the repair kit work fine, assuming you know how to use a screwdriver correctly in the first place. There are quite a few folks who never learned, and that’s nothing to be ashamed of—in fact it’s common enough that we made a guide for it. Those bits were designed first and foremost to work with iPhone screws and have been extensively, extensively tested. You may come across stubborn screws or strip the heads if you’re not careful, and maybe that’s why some folks here are having trouble. In the very rare event that you actually received a malformed bit of some kind due to a manufacturing defect (which should be clear just from looking at it up close), reach out to customer service and they’ll get you squared away.

Jeff Suovanen - 返信

I just completed the battery replacement and I too found that the PH000 did not sit properly in either the 3.2 or 2.2 mm screws. Using a magnifying glass it seemed that the PH000 driver bit did not sufficiently fill the space of the screw. I happen to have the iFixit Pro Kit and used the PH00 driver bit instead, and this seemed to fill the space of both screws much better leading to successful extraction and replacement. My lack of experience with phone repair may have been a factor, but it seemed at least for my particular phone the PH00 was the proper driver bit for these two screws.

Jimmy Doi - 返信

The PH000 screwdriver I received cannot remove the smaller screw…

Michael Pesenti - 返信

So I spend 34 bucks on a kit of tools to repair my phone and they send the wrong sized screwdriver to get the battery cover off. Awesome. I can get the larger screw out but not the smaller one. What a waste of time and money.

Michael Pesenti - 返信

@michael_pesenti Those screw heads are the same; the screws are just different lengths. If you have the right driver for one, you have the right driver for both, unless someone put your iPhone together with the wrong screws.

Jeff Suovanen -

@jeffsu

Nope. Actually turns out that ifixit just sent me a defective screwdriver that only was poorly sized and only managed to catch one of the screws. I had to order a new PH000 Screwdriver on Amazon and it got the screws out instantly and I was able to repair my phone.

Michael Pesenti - 返信

I used the “Maximum” precision set from Canadian Tire and the PH#00 works nicely for both these screws.

Matt - 返信

Screws in mine required different size drivers also - maybe because refurbished? But have had the same probs on mbps also. Felt silly but followed Jeff’s suggestion to look at the screwdriver best practice guide and realised I was stripping screws by using too small a driver - have a couple either side of the suggested size and use the largest one that catches - I mainly used PH#0 & 00, though some screws needed #000, and there wasn’t any consistency to which screws needed which driver.

Trish - 返信

  • iPhoneからメタル製のバッテリーコネクターブラケットを取り出します。

Why in the YouTube video do you skip removing the battery connector

mjcoughlin70 - 返信

Where to buy this bracket?

syidan - 返信

One of the screws is longer than the other, use it for the higher inside hole.

Bobby Slone - 返信

  • プラスチック製の開口ツールを使って、ロジックボード上のソケットからバッテリーコネクターの接続を外します。

  • 基板のソケットには接触せず、バッテリーコネクターのみに差し込んで押し上げます。ててください。基板上のソケットに触ると、コネクター全体を損傷することがあります。

I skipped steps 13-19 and just left the front panel rubber banded while I removed the battery. I just made sure to be careful while removing the adhesive strips so as not to move around the body of the phone too much. Skipping the steps made the whole process much faster and easier.

Tonima Chaudhury - 返信

I wish I had done that.

Gail Starr -

Thanks for this awesome tip. Made the replacement go much smoother - saved me from removing all those other screws. I also recommend watching the ifixit battery adhesive strip video before proceeding with step 21.

Andy Milne -

Me too, no need to detach the screen (when you take care),

Tom Long -

In trying to replace my antenna flex cable, I attempted to skip steps 13-19 but eventually gave up around step 31/32 as I simply didn’t have the access I needed - the space was just too cramped with the screen still attached and I was afraid I would break something. If you’re a novice, don’t have good lighting and a magnifying glass, etc. you may just want to go ahead and perform 13-19. (Yes it will take extra time of course.)

Perrin Haley -

I also skipped steps 13-19 after reading the first comment.

youmingc - 返信

I skipped those steps too and was successful. Thanks for this tip!

jaksbackpack - 返信

Can disconnecting the battery connector while power is on ruin the backlight? Or can disconnecting the power connector at a different stage ruin the back light?

mitch Toler - 返信

You should power down the phone before disconnecting the battery. That said, the backlight should be fine. A blown backlight circuit is most commonly caused by disconnecting the display when the battery is still connected.

Jeff Suovanen -

I did open the lcd without disconnecting the battery and my lcd wouldn't working

Reza I. Permana -

Thanks for that tip Tonima! This is another confirmation that skipping steps 13-19 worked out great!

As an extra measure, in addition to leaving the front panel rubber banded in it's open, vertical position (I secured mine to a can of beans) and being very careful and controlled when removing the adhesive strips; before using the suction cup to separate the front panel from the rear case, I had secured the back side of the rear case to my working surface (kitchen table) with a strip of folded over duct tape (creating double sided tape). Such might not have been necessary as I held the rear case with one hand while removing the adhesive strips with the other, though it just felt safer having the rear case (as well as the front panel) well secured in place to help assure that I didn't accidentally cause any damage to those very fragile looking cables that were left connected, by any possible movements of either of the iPhone's halfs during the pulling to remove the adhesive strips.

Russ Levey - 返信

It happened to me, by prying the battery connector with another tool I broke part of the socket off the board. However, by placing it exactly back in place the connector could be placed correctly and it works. Lucky.

Udo Schuehle - 返信

I'd like a little more explanation on how to re-attach the battery connector. But in the end I lined it up and pressed gently down till it snapped into place.

Garret Gray - 返信

I skipped the steps removing the screen only because I didn't feel confident at all doing this. For someone who is used to electronics I would really suggest removing it because I imagine the whole process would've been easier. If there's a next time, perhaps I'll do that.

Garret Gray - 返信

The suggestions that recommend skipping step 13-19 apply to some other repair. We replaced the display, and to do so, steps 13-19 are, of course, necessary.

Gabriel Zachmann - 返信

When replacing the battery you should prepare the cable to sit in exactly as you see it in the picture. I had mine all the way back in (with sticky strips) and had to find a way to fit the cable in with the weird way it bends. Dry fit the battery with cable in place - lesson learned.

Chet Seidel - 返信

Good idea. All the instructions were great until I got to the last thing- reattaching the battery connector! I like your recommendation to dry fit the connector so you can get the right bend to the connector ribbon first.

Tom Rohrer -

I wish I had seen this also, I feel like this should be in the guide. Mine seems to be working out but I had to force the connector into place a little bit.

Kevin Harvey -

I wish I had seen this first! I also had the issue, now I have a permanent discoloration of the screen where the connector is pushing against the back. Hoping that it doesnt lead to other problems. This site is really lacking on the reassembly steps… shame..

thomasjmaclean - 返信

I'm just wondering if my computer would still recognize my phone with the battery disconnected?

Sare - 返信

It appears that I haven’t properly connected the battery back up, since the hard reset didn’t work. I did my best to connect the battery before adhering it to the battery spot, but the connector doesn’t seem to “click” or otherwise confirm that it is properly positioned. The left side of the connector (closest to the battery) seemed slightly raised, which made me wonder if I had done it correctly. So I’m probably going to have to try using my last adhesive strips to lay it in better to allow for a better connection. I’m also worried that I may have damaged the connection spot. Is there anywhere on here where this is discussed? This is my second battery replacement, but first on this particular phone, which is apparently a refurbished one (and which has a slightly different looking connector cover).

Alex Kosmider - 返信

Ah, it helps to discover that it’s actually a 6S rather than a 6.

Alex Kosmider -

For those of you replacing the Digitizer you to need follow steps 13 - 19.

lowestseries - 返信

Doing a lightning connector replacement - skipped steps 13-19 as well. No problems.

cambo.robertson - 返信

Hello, Is it necessary to do step 13 to 18 if I only want to change the battery?

What does can happen if I don’t make all step?

Juan - 返信

  • フロントパネルアセンブリーのケーブルブラケットから次のプラスネジを5本取り外します。

    • 1.2 mmネジー3本

    • 1.7 mmネジー1本

    • 3.1 mm ネジー1本

  • 再組み立ての際、これらのネジを違う箇所に取付けてしまうと、基板に永続的なダメージを与えてしまいます。

Be careful when replacing the screws, not to accidentally put the 1.7mm screw into the center hole, where the 1.2 screw belongs. This can cause "Long Screw" damage, and render your phone unusable.

damianodessgillett - 返信

I don't have the magnetic pad but use duct tape face up in a tray. I write the step number and color of the screw on the sticky surface and let the screw stand heads up on the goo. The screw is presented for the driver when reassembling.

griffn - 返信

Can't stress enough how important it is not to mix up these screws! Using the 1.7mm screw for the lower left fixing will cause "long screw damage" and kill the backlight on the phone. I believe @damianodessgillett made the same point. Wish we could display a small warning message here to be extra careful for future fixers!

kev - 返信

I use a screw ID technique similar to griffn's; I print out the PDF version of the guide, then Scotch-tape each screw type to the guide at the step where the screw was removed. The screws are then distinguished by size and type at the point where they need to be reinstalled.

adlerpe - 返信

i am trying but only could open 2 screws and cannot open the rest of them, can you help me??

girlsrock742 - 返信

@girlsrock742 - I'm new here, but from what I've seen, questions like yours don't get answered. I have 2 suggestions:

# Be more specific about what your issue is.

# Make sure you're using the right screwdriver. (Get a magnifying glass & make sure the screwdriver fits nicely in the screwhead.) This guide is included in a guide I'm looking at, and my guide has a comment that #000 phillips is required for the battery connector bracket above, not #00 as documented. (That comment did not convey to this guide....)

Good luck!

Nate Schley - 返信

Nate, you are my hero at the moment! Phillips head screw driver PH000 resolved my issue. Greatly appreciative of your chiming in on this comment! Appreciatively, C.

Carol N -

Thanks to @griffn & @adlerpe! I've updated the tools list to include the magnetic pad, and -- for us infrequent fixers -- I made a note in the intro text to describe the sort of thing you two noted here in place of the mag pad.

Also, to @damianodessgillett & @kev - I've submitted an update to the instructions to add the caution you recommend to the step. Hopefully others will avoid the pain of the Long Screw damage.

Nate Schley - 返信

It's possible to damage only a slot of flex cable ? I've opened my iPhone 6 but now front camera, speaker and the proximity sensor are not working. I've bought a new flex cabe to test it, but I have to be sure about that.

cruz.giovanni - 返信

I'm so worried I'm going insert the wrong screw. Does anyone have any suggestions to knowing how to properly tell the size of each screw? I bought a screw set and a magnetic pad but still have the same issue. Not knowing the correct placement of each screw. I'd definitely appreciate any help.

Patric - 返信

Hi Patric! We use a set of calipers to measure our screws, failing that you could use a very fine ruler. If you don't have any kind of measuring equipment, line the screws up on the magnetic mat and sort them by size there. Ideally you only have screws from this step! If you are trying to determine the size of all the screws in this guide, it's probably best to get a real ruler/caliper for the fine distinctions.

Sam Lionheart -

Do you have to remove the display to replace the battery?

Michael Aguilera - 返信

It's not absolutely necessary to remove the display, I kept my display propped up throughout the operation. Removal of the display doesn't seem to offer any particular benefit, unless you have problems with the adhesive strips.

Adam - 返信

Hi. I messed up with the screws in the cover guard sheet for the display ribbon and my iPhone 6 plus isn't turning on. Does that mean the logic board is dead or the battery ? Should I throw the phone in the garbage can ?

nzf - 返信

Did anyone even answer your question? I'm having the same issue

Sare -

I can confirm it's not necessary to remove anything other than battery bracket. If you support the screen against something as in the picture, just make sure you hold the iPhone absolutely still with one hand while pulling out the adhesive strips with the other. I also used a small piece of tape to hold the screen in place against the box while I worked.

I am now a very happy customer and am looking forward to another few years life from my awesome iPhone 6!

Matt Whiteley - 返信

There is no need to do this step. No need to remove these 5 screws. Just make sure the screen is propped up against something strong and this step is unnecessary for the proper removal and re-insertion of battery.

arunhn - 返信

I left the front panel connected and it was much quicker. But, if you have to wrestle with the battery, it is much safer with the front panel removed. If you have worked on a few phone before, I'd try removing the battery with the front panel connected. If the battery is giving you problems(like if you tear the strips and have to heat the backside), you can always come back to this step.

Joel Horie - 返信

I strongly recommend you leave the display connectors alone if you can. My battery came out without a fight, but I found the display connectors to be almost tragically delicate, and I had white lines in the display when I booted it. During the subsequent attempts to remedy that situation, things went down hill and now I'm waiting for an entirely new display to try to rescue the phone from repair oblivion.

kevin hekman - 返信

I also skipped all of the screen-removal steps and had nary a problem. Just rubber band the screen around whatever it is propped against and I believe you'll be fine.

Billy Bob Baler - 返信

Hello! I put the screws on in the wrong order and I believe my backlight is dead, iTunes still recognizes my phone when I plug it in, but the screen is blank. Is it possible to replace the logic board or is the phone useless forever?

Tanya Lyn Willard - 返信

You probably connected the cables wrong, try doing this step again and carefully correct your cables.

June Beltran -

Remove each screw, tape it to a piece of letter paper, mark what spot it came out of. red, yellow, orange and the 3 reds. This way you can not possibly put them back in the wrong spots.

smahar -

I totally recommend doing this step first before removing the battery connector bracket, it will be much easier and comfortable with the screen out of the way.

Also I recommend drawing the bracket on a piece of paper and place the screws on top of the respective position on the drawing, this way you won't be confused when putting them back.

June Beltran - 返信

I accidentally lost a 1.2mm screw while doing a screen replacement. Will this make the phone malfunction in anyway after I close it back up or its fine?

Walter White - 返信

DO NOT DO THIS STEP. It is totally unnecessary to remove the connectors, and they are a really big pain to put back in, and there is risk of damaging them, and it adds a lot of time to the process of replacing the battery. Just securely prop up the front panel, and then if you gently heat the back of the phone when removing the adhesive strips, the battery comes off easily. I could have saved myself about 2 hours and a lot of frustration if I had just left these connectors in. I wish the instructions here would just include this step (connector removal) ONLY IF the battery doesn't come out easily.

J Marr - 返信

Exactly, just like J, Marr indicates, this step is not necessary. Just make sure you're careful to not move the phone too much, otherwise you can damage the film connectors. Other than that I even heated my phone to remove the adhesive, and thank God, nothing bad happened to it.

Mc Floyd -

It’s only necessary if you’re like me an need to fix the screen or water damage (mine fell in water…)

jacobdanderson -

I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you risk tearing the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. Sadness.

Ergolad - 返信

How can't you do step 33 if you don't do 13-19? iPhone 6.

predylindsay - 返信

I'm missing something here, I want to swap out the screen. How does one skip steps 13-19 if wanting to remove the screen?

BW Lee - 返信

Any tips for removing the 1.2 mm screws? Mine won't budge at all with the PH000 and I'm afraid I'm stripping the screws.

MClare - 返信

I had to use the larger bit for ALL of the screws as the small one was too narrow at the tip to actually grab anything. It worked but made it a bit more difficult.

Heather Best - 返信

Is it really necessary to remove the front panel at all, can't you just ask a friend to hold it in an upright position while you work on the battery?

Peter - 返信

I also skipped steps 13 - 19. Just be very careful not to apply to much stress to the connectors in between the screen and the base. For me I also used another box to keep the base from sliding around while removing the battery.

Patrick Reed - 返信

You cannot skip these steps, of course, when you want to replace the display (which was the kind of repair we did).

When putting the little connectors in place again afterwards, I can recommend to hold the connectors to the display using a little rubber band. That way, they don’t get in the way when you put them in place one by one.

Gabriel Zachmann - 返信

You SHOULD do the steps of removing the display. I have done battery replacements on several dozen phones. Of the ones I did NOT remove the cables, 2 of them had issues directly related to components related to these cables (front facing camera, earpiece speaker, etc.). Although tedious, I recommend removing these connectors to prevent any short circuit when reconnecting the new battery.

ACMT - 4 years.

jonbessom - 返信

I skipped this step and just affixed the screen to the Iphone box with a rubber band during replacement. I decided to take this risk to prevent some of the other issues that have been discussed when removing the screen. I understand it is risky because if you slip or need to use any significant force to remove the battery, disaster awaits. On my repair, it worked out fine and I ensured that I took my time and kept the bottom of the phone held to the worksurface.

Michael Kirkpatrick - 返信

There are only 2 screws when i opened mine.The centre one and the left top corner one..Is it okay to use it like that..Please help

Naresh Annepu - 返信

If you can try to leave your display how it is. I removed it and it ended with white stripes and touchscreen not working. After a while it touch started to work and stripes went away. I think it was static electricity.

Kristaps Grinbergs - 返信

If you decide to go ahead with this step… I did it prior to removing the battery bracket and found it to be easier. Having the screen off made things a lot easier during the battery removal process.

Eric Craumer - 返信

Two of the screws are damaged and I can’t open them. What can I do to remove the bracket?

L He - 返信

Stay organized with the screws with just a piece of paper. Lay them out, mark ‘em up. Go slow, take your time.

Sherman Homan - 返信

I'm noticing some questions I have that others are asking yet no one is answering. You're all talking about the same problem that I find completely pointless. If you skip steps and it works, good for you move on. There are real questions being asked. Someone asked about losing a screw, would that effect anything? You all talk about the importance of having the screws organized, yet don't explain if someone either loses the screws or have them put into the wrong places. Since no one talks about it, I figured it wasn't as important as you all claim it is. Now my phone seems to not want to do anything anymore. Stop arguing with each other about something so miniscule like skipping steps. 40 comments on this part and 5 people actually have real problems but no answers. So, if anyone actually took the time to read this, my questions are; what happens if the screws are put in the wrong order?(other than the obvious long screw damage) and what happens if we put the phone back together without some screws?

Sare - 返信

@sarery I’m a little puzzled by your question. If you’re not willing to put the screws back in the right place as instructed, despite all the warnings in both the guide and the comments, why would you want to attempt this repair in the first place? But nevertheless I will try to answer. Some screws, if left out, have no noticeable effect. That’s the best you can hope for. Other screws perform a vital function such as providing a path to ground. Some screws are made of nonferrous materials—getting those mixed up can interfere with things like compass functionality. And putting a wrong screw pretty much anywhere can result in cross-threading or component damage. The reason we go to the trouble of providing all these screw markings and measurements is to help you put your phone back together in perfect working order. Which you may still be able to do, if you are careful, and patient. Good luck.

Jeff Suovanen -

Thank you very much for that information. That's all I and I believe some other people were curious about.

That's what I thought this website was for, not post fighting over who's the smarter one and not putting others down. This isn't Facebook

Sare - 返信

well said Sare - perhaps if folk stuck to the subject instead of proving how clever they are (not) there wouldn’t be 44 comments to scroll through to find an intelligent answer

philbjh - 返信

For those who are removing the digitizer, you do need to remove the bracket to get access to cable.

lowestseries - 返信

Definitely do NOT disconnect the screen for the battery replacement!

The battery replacement worked like a charm but now I am left with whit e stripes in the screen and touch screen functionality is lost despite many tries to get the screen reconnected.

Indiana Jones - 返信

Hello, well I accidentally put the screws back in the wrong order after replacing the charging port, phone turns on but stays on Apple screen, any suggestions? Thank you

d.rando90 - 返信

i have replaced my iphone 6’s screen twice now, first the phones fingerprint sensor wouldn’t work ( the original one ), so i replaced the entire screen ( new fingerprint sensor), but still doesn’t work and now the phones brightness is extremely dim on both screens. So now both screens now are dim and finger print sensors dont work.

Regan Murray - 返信

I have some issue with the 3.1 mm screw. Only this one can’t put it back, but I take off the metal that can turn it on. (I just feel 2~3 circle to turn the screw.) What it’s happen?

AndyKao - 返信

  • 基板からフロントパネルアセンブリのケーブルブラケットを取り出します。

コメントを追加する

  • 次の4つの手順ではケーブルコネクターのみに差し込んで持ち上げ、基板上のソケットには接触しないでください。

  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、正面カメラとセンサーケーブルコネクターの接続を外します。

I can not get these electrical connections to reconnect. If there is some secret to this it should be noted. I now have a phone all taken apart and can not get it back together. It makes no sense to only give directions to take a phone apart and not to put it back together.

douglas hughes - 返信

Use sideways bright light and peek underneath as you mate the contacts to align properly. Press very gently and evenly. Others have written that too much pressure in the center may warp the contact.

mahoffman - 返信

I'm having the same problem as above...really upset and frustrated at this point. :( 2/4 connectors (top and right) will 'click' just fine...the other two (bottom two) for the life of me wont connect!!!! :( any suggestions? i feel like i have tried everything. Sucks that is only thing stopping me screen from being repaired....

alyssaavaldezz - 返信

Hi alyssa. Were you able to connect the cables? I am having the same problem

Veronica del Rio -

regarding cable connects - if two of the ribbon cables are not properly overlapped around each other, then it will appear as if cable #2 will need to plug into the closest jack, which is actually for cable#3. Look at the two connectors carefully - they are opposite gender and can't be interchanged.

David Panak - 返信

This is good advice, and usually the problem people experience here. There is a very specific way the ribbon cables are layered, and if not correct when reassembled, the reach of the cables will cause you to assume which cable goes where and to try to insert the wrong plugs into the wrong sockets. Please do not try to force them. If they don't snap in easily, examine them closely, and you'll see the plugs and sockets are slightly different sizes, with one wider than the other. Better to take care to note how the cables layer during disassembly, or perhaps mark them to avoid this frustration on reassembly.

gybeho -

Check order of cables. From screen replacement.

lee moran - 返信

my problem is that the connectors are different the screen i replaced it with the connectors were longer than the broken screen even though there the exact same type of screen

andrew midgett - 返信

Probably just have the cables out of order. Check the posts above.

gybeho - 返信

"gybeho" Ok, but it's impossible to install flex cables out of order. Each one has diferent sizes of docking...

cruz.giovanni - 返信

it is very possible to install flex cables out of order. to most people working on their first screen replacement they do not have the experience to notice that their flex cable connection is different than the dock connection. this causes them to press harder and force the connection into the dock, ruining the connections, if they do not think the they have the cables out of order

Dakota Navarrete - 返信

I'm with Andrew Midgett. The connectors are just plain different in size and orientation. My phone matches what's shown in the picture above. You can see an example of the replacement part if you search Amazon for "Sanka LCD Touch Screen Digitizer Frame Assembly Full Set Screen Replacement for iPhone 6". And Sanka isn't the only iPhone 6 replacement that looks like that, so no hating on that manufacturer here.

Does this mean that some iPhone 6 phones have one set of connectors and some have a different set? FWIW, the model on the back of my phone says A1549.

PG McLaughlin - 返信

Update: Searching for iPhone 6S instead of 6 on Amazon, I see lots of replacement screens with connectors that look a lot more like what I have and what's shown in the picture above. (One connector has a horizontal orientation, the other is vertical. I can't be sure whether the pins or dimensions match otherwise.) Any wisdom here?

PG McLaughlin - 返信

Had the same problem with the correct layering of cable harnesses. Perhaps an additional photo showing the correct layering would be helpful for 1st timers?

William Breen - 返信

+1 for a photo showing the correct layering and routing of cables. I accidentally routed the home button ribbon above the digitizer ribbon and beneath the power and backlight ribbons. The uneven pressure it put on the digitizer connector after tightening the plate caused my digitizer to not recognize touching the display or made touches appear off center.

drpotter -

For everybody who thinks they can skip these steps I commend you. No way I would have been able to get my battery out - two broken strips - without removing the screen. Re-inserting these cables was not really difficult - once the first one is back in place the rest follow quickly.

Chet Seidel - 返信

I tried to reconnect these for ages until I watched a video of someone else doing it.

Don’t try to line up the connectors by looking at them with the screen leaning on a soda can, just hold the two halves in each hand and line the first one up by feel. Really. After that it’s plain sailing.

Even with great lighting I couldn’t make this work with the bits on the bench - yet when I picked them up it was really easy to feel them line up. I had all four popped back on in about 60 seconds.

Pitt Monqui - 返信

  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ホームボタンケーブルコネクターの接続を外します。

Muy buenas....una pregunta tecnica...si el botón falla o no está bien conectado...al conectar este conector ¿ se apagaría el teléfono?. Repare mi iphone y al conectarlo se me apaga el movil, sin embargo si no lo enchufo el movil enciende perfectamente.

Gracias.

Berta fernandez - 返信

  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ディスプレイデータのケーブルコネクターの接続を外します。

  • デバイスの再組み立ての際には、ディスプレイデータケーブルがコネクターから飛び出してしまうことがあります。これは電源を入れた時に白黒画面となる原因となります。この状態の場合、単純にケーブルを一旦外して電源を切り、再起動してください。ベストな再起動方法は、バッテリーコネクターを一度外してから再装着して電源を入れることです。

you missed the name of the second connctor. there are four total

copykatt - 返信

My screen is completely black and i can see the lights turning on when i press the home or lock button. Maybe this cable got damaged ?

Gabriel Hirata - 返信

Perhaps you bought a faulty screen. Often this is the case when it shows completely black.

William Mullan - 返信

When I was preforming this step, while reassembling, I had to connect the digitizer cable four times. On the last time, before screwing the Front Panel Assembly Cable Bracket on, I reconnected the battery connector and turned my phone on (ensuring that I was careful not to damage any cables!) to ensure that all cables were connected correctly and that the screen was fully functional.

Christopher - 返信

NO NO NO ! i am a professional iphone repairman and i strongly recommend against using ANY tool to disconnect the flex connectors if u slip or use to much force you will damage the connector and may cause permanent damage to the phones logic board rendering it completely UNrepairable! Instead gently use the edge of your fingernail and pry up and the connectors will usually come off with very little effort .

taylor sparks - 返信

Fingernails work great as well! However, there's nothing wrong with using a tool, as long as you exercise a little caution. If you've ever seen one of Apple's iPhone service manuals, you'll note that they use the exact same tool as iFixit (Apple calls it a "black stick" and iFixit dubs it a "spudger.")

Jeff Suovanen -

I'm pretty sure ifixit are pros, I used them 4 times to fix phones and no problems with using tools for flex cables.

Dave - 返信

If you still have white lines after you've tried reconnecting the connectors and power cycling. Just do a hard reset a few more times, let the phone stay on and wait a while. As long as it's not damaged, the lines will fade over the next hour or so. Your phone will be as good as new.

grjos - 返信

If my screen is giving me white lines and occasional ghost clicks on the right side does anyone know if it’s possibly only a faulty cable vs needing a full screen swap? I’d rather not waste a perfectly good screen.

Andrew Hill - 返信

what if my phone wont turn back on even after following all these steps carefully . i even put the old screen back on and it wont turn on still???

Daniel Murcia - 返信

what if the batery was not disconnected?

Sergio Midence - 返信

Re-connecting display data cable was trickiest part for me - my eyes are old! I had to do it a couple of times as the cable had indeed popped off its connector, resulting in a black screen when turned on. Needs lots of patience and good lighting, also helped to have a really good look at plug and socket under magnifying glass to see how they fit together, and to reconnect using finger rather than tool - this helped me feel when I had eventually connected properly.

Trish - 返信

Followed steps to a “T” - got phone up and running successfully! However, there is a vertical line in the center of the screen that changes color with whatever button is being displayed in the center screen. For example, a dead battery icon shows a red vertical line, acknowledging a blue “OK” button when setting up the phone shows a blue vertical line, etc. Essentially it’s not a black screen or white lines. Could it be that the display data connector is not correctly attached or perhaps a faulty connector?

Cyndi - 返信

  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、デジタイザーケーブルのコネクターの接続を外します。

  • デジタイザーケーブルを再接続する際は、コネクターの中央を押さないでください。コネクターの一方端を押さえてから、反対側を押さえます。コネクター中央を押してしまうと、コンポーネントを曲げてしまい、デジタイザーにダメージを与えてしまいます。

Reassembly was harder than other i devices I have worked on. A bench light from the side helped a lot with the first cable, the digitizer. The others went a bit better in this crowded space. I had screen lines when testing it out before closing the top, so reinstalled all four connectors here with the aid of a side light and happily, that worked!

griffn - 返信

i crossed over the first two cables initially, when re-assembled; make sure by the WIDTH that you are trying to connect them in the right order.

awr - 返信

How many times can i peel these connections without braking the connection between screen and logic borad

falken1337 - 返信

Is this the breaking down process for the Verizon version of the iPhone 6s? I know the flex cables were different for other versions and with my last iPhone I made the mistake of ordering one that had completely different cable places. Someone please send me a link to one that fits the Verizon 4.7 display!!!

Bailey Duncan - 返信

This break down isn't for a 6S. It is for a plain 6 (no S). Yes there is some differences because of the 3D touch feature.

Keith Mullins - 返信

So what is the fix if there is digitizer damage? Replacing the screen?

After reinstallation, I am encountering issues with an area of the screen that is not responding to touch. Everything else works fine.

Anyone have any ideas how I should proceed?

Jonathan Rivera - 返信

I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to Place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

So, look at the first connector with a magnifying glass, the shortest one, closest to the camera. Maybe I got a little lucky when I managed to fix the connector without replacing it. Good luck. I feel your frustration all the way to Sweden.

// Simon

Simon Tengstrand -

I mean digitizer Cable= the first connector (lcd connector).

Simon Tengstrand -

I had the most issues when reassembling with this step. The plastic tool is a fail in my experience since not enough pressure could be applied using it. I just ended up using my finger and that worked 10Xs better. My advice, watch a few YouTube videos of people reconnecting the connectors and you'll be fine.

grjos - 返信

I have dis-connected and reconnected several times with the white line appearing each time. The screen however seems to be responsive. I did lose a 1.2 mm screw. Is it the missing screw or did I damage the digitizer connection?

Charlotte - 返信

I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

So, look at the first connector with a magnifying glass, the shortest one, closest to the camera. Maybe I got a little lucky when I managed to fix the connector without replacing it. Good luck. I feel your frustration all the way to Sweden.

I had three screws left when I did some repairs on my iphone 4 and that didn't matter. It worked like a charm :)

// Simon

Simon Tengstrand -

I mean digitizer Cable= the first connector (lcd connector)

Simon Tengstrand -

Be especially careful in this step or your iPhone won’t respond to your touch after reassembling.

Ume Nishikino - 返信

My home screen button is not working after reassembly, not only the Touch ID but the actual button doesn't work. I have iPhone 6S . How can I fix this? Thanks

Sissy -

I noticed that I had bent this connector. Barely. After about a dozen connect/reconnect attempts, bent it back and everything works as intended. Prior to bending it, was getting white lines and touchscreen was unresponsive. After bending and reconnecting, fired up exactly as it had prior to disassembly.

Heywoz - 返信

  • リアケースからフロントパネルアセンブリを取り外します。

Is it not possible to start here? Just leave the screen assembly attached and only replace the home button?

Joeri Boersen - 返信

Please don’t do that. You will break your cables almost assuredly if you leave it attached to your phone trust me

Curtis Jordan Lenox - 返信

Is front camera supposed to be attached to the digitizer?

Neos Kosmos - 返信

  • バッテリーの右端下部から第1番目の接着タブを剥がします。

  • バッテリー周辺の作業であるため、指や先の尖っていないピンセットを用いて十分に注意しながら行います。リチウムイオンバッテリーを損傷してしまうと危険な化学物質が漏れたり、火災の原因となります。

  • オプションとして、次の手順に進む前に、バイブレータを固定している2本のプラスネジを取り外してバイブレータを持ち上げて外し、バッテリの接着ストリップを引き抜くためのスペースを確保することができます。

Before you start on the battery, jump ahead to step 27. Click the "this guide" and read and watch the video. Then come back and start on the battery. The adhesive strips are difficult the first time. They work like 3M Command Strips products, if you've ever used those. Stretching them lengthwise makes them release.

Joel Horie - 返信

The “This Guide” link is in the STEP 25 text and in the Conclusion text. There is no Step 27 in the current (03 Nov 2017) online guide.

hobywonkenobee - 返信

Several comments below attest to the benefit of heating the back of the phone (thus heating the adhesive) before attempting to remove the adhesive strips. See below.

kevin evans - 返信

Definitely easier to remove the adhesive after using the iOpener to warm up the phone!

Richard Van Cleave - 返信

My phone did not have the tabs or peel off adhesive. I had the pry, yes pry, the battery out of the phone while heating it. The battery was glued in place and came out shaped like a banana. I’m just glad it did not puncture during the process. On the plus side, I didn’t need to install the new adhesive pad, as it looked like that is what was in there, and they were still sticky. As I think back, this phone was replaced by Verizon under warranty, and they gave me a refurbished phone. I bet it already had a repair battery in it…

Darren Rowley - 返信

  • 接着タブを水平に、皺が寄らない状態で作業をしてください。タブに皺が入ってしまうと、引っ張る際に裂けてしまうことがあります。

  • ゆっくりと接着タブをバッテリーから外して、iPhoneの下部方向へ引っ張ります。

    • 接着タブをバイブレーターやバッテリー周辺の部品に引っ掛けて、切断しないようご注意ください。

    • バッテリーとリアケースの間からタブが外れるまで一定の強さで引っ張ります。これまで試してみたところ、60度以内の角度で引っ張るのが成功するようです。

    • 接着タブはオリジナルの長さの何倍にも伸びます。必要に応じてタブストをバッテリーの近くで掴み直してください。

    • もし接着タブを切断してしまったら、ピンセットを使用して(バッテリーにダメージを与えないように)タブを取り出し、再度引っ張ります。タブがバッテリーの底で切れてしまい、掴めない場合は次の手順に進んでください。

I suggest removing the vibrator before attempting to remove the adhesive strips. It makes the process much easier. I broke both tabs following this step and recovered both the strips by removing the vibrateor and using a tweezers and fingers to pull the remaining strip. I grabbed a corner of the strip underneath the battery and pulled very gently until I was able to recover the entire width of the strip. This required holding the corner of the strip with my fingers and using the tweezers to grab the stip closer to the battery, allowing me to grab more width.

kkm113 - 返信

I had to do this, so I will vouch for this step. It made things a lot easier and is a pretty simple removal/installation.

Dan -

This should be a required Step in this guide. I've replaced two batteries now, one without removing the vibrator, and it took me about a half hour of using a blow dryer because I ripped the adhesive strips. Removing the vibrator allows for the "down-right" / "down-left" pulling of the strips MUCH MORE EASILY - just removed both without any problems...no blow dryer needed now!

ethanmaretich -

My iphone 6 will not power on. I started it with 30% battery can you suggest solutions?

xavierwells03 - 返信

It was that dang data cable. Awesome, thanks!

xavierwells03 -

I did this but it doesn't charge. I'm concerned that I may not have attached the new battery cable properly. It didn't snap into place very well. It looked as if the new cable had some plastic that may have been blocking the connectors I'm not sure how snug it's supposed to go on. It definitely did not click into position the way the screen cables clicked in. Anyway, I connected as best I could and put the metal cover on and it doesn't work. Was I supposed to do something to the new battery's cable connector so that it would connect better?

My phone had some water damage and I was hoping that replacing the battery would solve the problem.

epetner - 返信

When 'reversing the steps' to put it back together, where do the adhesive strips come in? And where do you get them? How do you put them on?

TJE - 返信

Hi TJE, you won't be able to follow every step exactly in revers ;) You can buy the strips here, iPhone 6/6s/7 Battery Adhesive Strips, or just use a piece of double-sided tape. For the adhesive strips, just peel off one layer of the backing, align the strips as they were in step 20, press them onto the battery and remove the outer backing, and put it in the phone, making sure the connector can attach to its socket, then head up to step 19 attach the connector etc.

Sam Lionheart -

The strips need more instruction/picture. As soon as I tried to peel the top layer the strips stuck to each other and created a mess. I salvaged part of the strip, but not pretty. Used double sided tape. Much easier.

eschrank - 返信

AGREED! I bought the iFixit kit and this instructional is great, for sure... buuuuut it really would have been nice to see how you guys apply the new battery adhesive. I had no idea and just about botched mine. Thankfully I figured it out before it was a total loss.

leon -

Yup, I agree! The only bit of information that is missing.

I hope I do not have to remove the battery again as i put the strips on the wrong way round.

The kept folding themselves under the battery, so next time not tabs. I did not pust hard on the battery though so that may save some ball ache.

I did not need to remove the screen, so all in all a simple process. I think once you have done one or 2 batteries, then it becomes easier as you are learning by doing.

PJ Donnelly -

That information isn't missing exactly, it's just a separate guide. It's linked in the last step of this guide. It pays to read all the way to the end ;)

Jeff Suovanen -

There is another guide that explains it, here is the link to it. iPhone Akku Klebestreifen anbringen

IFIXIT should point in the right step to avoid issues on adhesive missteps.

Anand Parthasarathy -

Heat helps. Got lucky pulling both out full length from the bottom. A few minutes with a hair dryer prepped the aluminum case to surrender the stretchy sticky tabs. Be sure to click the tape install link so that you apply the new double sticks correctly. I also 'dry fitted' the battery first to see where the connector lined up. With the battery all the way at the top of the opening, the connector took a bit of effort to align. With strips attached, I allowed some space and the connector fell into place.

griffn - 返信

why do you need to secure the battery with the strips in the first place? Will the battery slide around?

jsimons - 返信

We recommend readhering the battery to the rear case with some form of adhesive. You don't have to use the adhesive strips we sell, but if your battery is just bouncing around inside the case you risk damage to the cell itself or the ribbon cable. There's also circuitry at the lower edge of the battery that is not meant to take a lot of abuse. It's not likely that your battery will explode, but it could become damaged and leak, or stop working prematurely.

Evan Noronha -

I didn't secure the battery with anything and after completing the installation, my battery bounces around inside the phone. Personally, I don't see any problems with this and if anything, it gives my iphone 6 a haptic touch type feel :) I'll let you know if it explodes.

Brett Benson - 返信

Be careful when placing the new battery. The compartment is a little bigger than the battery, but the cable to the connector is pretty stiff. I had to do some serious adjusting of the cable to get the connector to align. I suggest connecting the connector before laying down the battery.

Howard Bales - 返信

I was able to pull the right strip completely out just from the bottom of the battery. Pull straight out with a low angle (just slightly above the black chip so it doesn't get caught or break) and the adhesive will pull right out. There's no need to go around the sides of the battery unless the adhesive is dry and not flexible. If the adhesive is very flexible, you'll be able to pull it out very easily as long as you take your time and are careful. It also helped that I started with 100% battery and drained down to under 25%, so the iphone was very warm from doing this and that helped make it very easy to pull the adhesive out. I did not need a warming kit, I just used the heat from using the iphone to drain the battery before shutting it down for the repair!

Ryan - 返信

I managed to pull the strips out without using any heat. I pulled maybe 25 degrees from the vertical, carefully avoiding the metallic parts around. However, after starting to pull with an even pressure, and seeing that the strip was stretching without coming out, I found that it helped if I gave small, repeated tugs, rather delicate but abrupt. This way I could actually hear the strip pulling out from under the battery, with a rubbery vibrating sound. It must have taken maybe 100 small tugs for each strips but they came out easily. Also, as the extracted part got too long, I held it with the other hand and grabbed it again further down the exposed portion, to always have a shorter section to pull on.

matteorisoldi - 返信

Pulling straight down towards the bottom of the phone at a small angle worked well for me. I highly recommend taking your time to prevent breakage. I think I spent over 8 minutes on each strip just slowly stretching it out so it would not break. Just keep it straight and dont twist. I was able to remove both strips intact and thus did not need to pry the battery. Because I was able to do this method, I left the screen attached and saved a few steps (I was not trying to save time, just did not want to create additional problems by removing and reconnecting various ribbons). I think slow and steady will be your best friend. I did not heat up the adhesive or case.

Michael Kirkpatrick - 返信

This is a straight up BS instruction - both of my strips broke IMMEDIATELY. I ended up with a blow dryer, dental floss, credit card and about a half hour of swearing. This step needs to be re-written\improved.

Chet Seidel - 返信

Sorry you had such a tough time. I’ve had them break on me instantly as well. Unfortunately that can’t be fixed with better instructions—sometimes the strips get brittle and practically disintegrate when pulled. I’m not sure if it’s an issue with the strips degrading over time, heat/moisture, manufacturing tolerances, or something else—it seems a bit random and it’s definitely frustrating when it happens. That’s why we have the additional instructions for the card, floss, etc. Better luck next time I hope ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Jeff Suovanen -

Same thing just happened to me. Had to use a guitar string and slid it underneath along with heating and prying with a card. My phone is about 4 years old though so it was expected as the adhesive dries out and becomes incredibly hard to remove. Even after the battery was out I had to scratch constantly at the adhesive to get it off the body.

Kieran Kristoffersen -

One of the trickier parts, mine tore as soon as I tried on both.

Richard W - 返信

I would definitely recommend heating the back of the phone with a heating pad for 15 minutes prior to this step. The first time I tried pulling the first strip, it broke off almost instantly. I then heated the back of the phone with a heating pad for 15 minutes and was able to remove the 2nd strip as described in the instructions above. I was then able to retrieve the 1st strip using a pair of tweezers and remove it as described above.

kylecompfix - 返信

The first white strip ripped right off before any of it pulled loose. I was extra careful with the second one and got 2/3 of it off before it broke. Heating the back side of the phone probably would have helped. I didn’t think there was any hope of getting the battery out until I read the comments here. Here is what I did, I took an iron and used it to heat up a 5 lb metal weight so it would stay warm for a while. I put the phone on the heated weight to keep it warm. I took dental floss and worked it under the battery to try and work the white strip loose. At the same time I used a plastic credit card/door key to work the battery up from the side. I eventually worked the plastic card under the back edge and worked my way deeper in until I was able to get it loose. When I got it loose it looked like the white strip was wadded up underneath the battery. I don’t think I had a chance of getting the strips up by just pulling.

mike garner - 返信

Both my strips broke at about 5-10 cm of pulling. Heart sank. I repeated the following: heat from hair dyer for about 1 min until the case was hot to touch, IKEA card edge to pry the battery along its length, reheating when the case cooled. Moved onto a stiffer/ thicker credit card type item once I could get it under the battery. Took me about 20-25 mins but with new confidence it could easily be done in 10 minute; I erred on caution since first time. I just used two 3 mm wide strip of double sided tape to secure the battery. Once i removed the film I heated up the case once again the soften the new adhesive before placing the battery. Working fine.

Richard L - 返信

Just broke the two strips of double sided tape. Look at the pictures well here. Pull the strips out a long way (i.e. the length of the battery or more) before you try to move them around the sides of the battery. One they are pulled out that far, becareful as you try to manurer them around the batter as they are now fragile and can break / tear easily. I was able to use a very thin flexible but strong ID card to wedge under the battery and with some effort (careful effort) I was able to pry the tape from under the battery. Half of the tape was still too strong and the battery came out with half of the battery casing left on the bottom case of the phone. Very strong tape the original tape

Ron - 返信

2 - iPhone 6 devices to replace batteries on. First was a total MESS! Strips broke - immediately! After much gentle prying, plastic cards, blue picks and dental floss, I got the bloody thing out! Second iPhone, I came at it differently. Used my iOpener (heater) to warm the whole phone for about 40 minutes. Peeled up the black “top edge” of the first strip, and it was then I noticed the top side white adhesive is NOT connected to the bottom side. Only the black film makes the connection on the factory battery. I was very gentle with that tab - until I saw the white strip start to appear from under the battery. I then became MUCH more deliberate with my pulling. No going back in (sticky stuff gets stuck on the battery edge) just smooth, steady pulling of the (warm) strip. As about an inch was exposed, I replaced my pulling fingers back near the edge of the battery without allowing any slack. More and more adhesive came out, and each time I repositioned my grasp. Finally - snap, and the strip was gone!

Bill Groth - 返信

The iFixit youtube video (www.youtube.com/watch?v=KtK7b_pqnCU) shows a method of pulling the adhesive around the bottom, side, and top of the battery. I did this for the first adhesive. The one caution with that approach is that, as you’re pulling the adhesive, it could get caught on surrounding components and that could cause a break if you’re not careful. For the second adhesive I pulled it only in the direction away from the bottom of the phone (as shown in Step 21) and that was MUCH simpler. As you’re pulling the adhesive, even if a slight tear occurs in the process, keep at it with a slow and steady motion to remove as much as you can. Thankfully the adhesive strips came off completely in my repair.

Jimmy Doi - 返信

That was fun!! I removed the volume side adhesive strip first. It broke immediately, but I was able to get it started again with the tweezers. It came right out. The inside strip was another story. It also broke immediately and I couldn’t get it started again with tweezers or anything. Since the volume side strip was out I used the black spudger tool to slowly start wedging the battery up and then I used a gift card to work the battery the rest of the way out. The gift card was not as thick as a credit card but was stiff enough to work the adhesive without bending the battery too much.

brian - 返信

  • 次に2番目の接着タブも同様の作業を繰り返します。

  • この接着タブを引っ張る際は片手でバッテリーを押さえてください。タブが外れるときにバッテリーが飛び出してしまうことがあります。

  • 2本目の接着タブを取り出せたら、次の2つの手順はスキップします。

  • 接着タブがバッテリーの下で切断して、取り出せなくなった場合は、次の手順に進んでください。

First adhesive (component side) broke during removal, but enough of it was hanging out to finish the job. 2nd strip (vol side) broke and snapped so far back I couldn't retrieve any part for pulling. HOWEVER, I proceeded with wedging a health care card, which is more flexible and thinner than credit card, and continued to push the adhesive from component side to edge of case. Once I have gotten enough adhesive bunched up and battery is showing signs of being lifted slightly, with health care card still in place, carefully swap a credit card and continue to leverage battery out slowly. (I did all of this without taking sceeen off, so be careful and do it at your own risk)

youmingc - 返信

The correct way of taking off the adhesive is not how it's shown in the picture (that is exacly how I broke both strips): it should be pulled out by tearing it away and right (to the speaker direction) and as flat as possible, and as the strip grows thinner move up but still pulling "down-right" until all comes out, same movement: " down-left" for the left strip

Ed Oliver - 返信

Definetly aided in the removal. Thanks!

Nicholas Sattele -

This comment refers to an out-of-date version of this guide. The current photos are correct. ;)

Jeff Suovanen -

just wanted to comment i followed this method and found it to be the easiest. as i got more and more adhesive out, i wrapped the excess around my finger like you would do with excess dental floss to keep the firm grip. worked perfectly. the total job was roughly 5-7 minutes from the first screw to the last.

Robert Vela -

Highly recommend using your iphone to do high power consumption tasks before shutting it down. This will warm the inside of the iphone and warm the adhesive strips. Doing this allows you to very easily pull the right adhesive strip completely out from the bottom of the battery. I just pulled straight out at a low angle and kept pulling until the strip was completely removed. You do need to take your time and be careful, pull slowly and it will eventually come out completely. If it is dry and not flexible, you'll will most likely fail, so make sure the inside of the iphone was warmed prior to starting your repair.

Ryan - 返信

The white "Command" type adhesive band broke, but was able to reach it with tweezers in the First Aid kit. Winding the adhesive around the tweezers with gentle tension allowed me to pull it all out and then the battery was "free".

malowitzp - 返信

Pull the strip out and down toward the speaker as much as you can. Don't rush trying to pull it around the corner of the battery. I did this on the first one and it ripped. On the second one I pulled it down/straight as much as possible and it came off easily. The earlier comment is correct about the picture not being the right way to pull the strips.

aggiechad2003 - 返信

The pictures have been updated! Thanks for your input.

Jeff Suovanen -

The 2nd one did break loose on me, but I was able to pick it up with the sweet tweezers provided with the Repair Tools kit. It took a few tries, but I was able to snag an edge and pull the strip back successfully.

smahar - 返信

Heat the back of the phone before trying to pull the adhesive, makes it much easier.

Jonathan MacIntyre - 返信

To heat the back of my phone I opened a console on my laptop and had it run a ridiculous computation, then put my phone underneath.

kevin evans - 返信

Before you put in the new battery (with the new adhesive strips on it), be sure to bend the pre-bend the battery connector cable!!!! (In the same pattern as the old battery!!!!) Will save you a big headache when trying to reconnect the battery connector cable.

Bernadette Smith - 返信

Pull slowly, do not rush it and it will be fine.

info - 返信

I agree with Jonathan MacIntyre . Heat the back of the phone with a heating pad for 15 minutes prior to do this and the strips come off much easier! I didn’t heat it at first and I almost broke off the first strip. (I was able to recover it later on with the tweezers after heating it with a heating pad.) The strips came out much easier after heating!

kylecompfix - 返信

  • 接着タブが切れてしまい、バッテリーがリアケースから取り出せない場合はiOpenerか、ヘアードライヤーを使いバッテリー裏のリアケースに直接熱し、手で触れられるより少し暖かい程度にして下さい。

  • iphoneを過熱する事はバッテリーの発火を招く事があります。

I've found it useful to warm the phone with the iopener from the beginning, and avoid the breakage altogether.

Christa - 返信

I wish I'd read Christa's comment beforehand. I didn't and started the process just fine, then both strips broke. I used a hairdryer multiple times to make progress melting the strips and wedging out the battery. Using a credit card alone (and then a credit card plus floss) wasn't enough. I used a cheese knife (carefully) for more leverage and that made the difference.

jaksbackpack - 返信

You don't need the iopener or a hair dryer. I put rice in a sock, rubber banded the top closed, microwaved for 40 seconds and placed it under the phone. It worked like a charm and allowed me to work on the battery while keeping the adhesive warm.

aggiechad2003 - 返信

simply used my wifes hair dryer and passed it over the back end for about 30secs or so. don’t know if it helped but it was easy to remove the adhesive strips. may or may not be necessary.

Robert Vela - 返信

+1 to Christa. Worked much better once heated.

Jonathan MacIntyre - 返信

Wouldn’t doing this step to start when removing the adhesive strips make it easier to start with?

Mike - 返信

The microwaving rice in a sock trick worked perfectly for me. (Daughter had done a third-party battery replacement — when I opened it, found no exposed adhesive tabs, at all!)

jsg68 - 返信

  • iPhoneを裏返して、デンタル用フロスや頑丈な糸をバッテリー裏側に差し込みます。それからゆっくりと鋸引きの動きで糸を上下に動かし、接着剤を剥がしながらスライドさせます。

    • フロスに変わる代用品として、12弦ギターセット中の0.009 Eストリングのような巻かれていないギター弦があります。

  • またはバッテリーとリアケースのケース側の間にプラスチックカードを挿入してください。

    • カードをボリュームボタン(ー)とバッテリー上部の端の付近に差し込まないでください。この裏に埋め込まれているボリュームコントロールケーブルにダメージを与えてしまいます。

    • 基板側からこじ開けないでください。デバイス本体にダメージを与える可能性があります。

  • カードを出来るだけ水平状態で差し込んでください。バッテリーが曲がってしまうと、危険な化学物質が排出されてしまうことがあります。また先鋭なツールを使用しないでください。

  • バッテリー背面の接着剤を切り込んで剥がすようにカードをしっかりと押し込みます。

The bad news was that the adhesive strip ripped on the logic-board side. The good news is that recovery was not as difficult as I thought. By using a hair dryer, and some very patient wedging with a credit card, I was able to separate the battery from the adhesive, and then remove it. Some simple cleanup with tweezers got the adhesive sticking to the case. Just make sure you get it right on the edge side, or this technique will be a lot harder to pull off.

Billy Bob Baler - 返信

I screwed up the peeling part but I managed to get it through with a credit card.

Important, do not force the card down. Just take your time pushing and moving the card left and right. When the battery was up I just kept going with my hand, reeeeeally slowly and with constant force (so that it peels off the remaining straps).

Emanuele - 返信

The left side adhesive strip broke where I couldnt reach it. I tried dental floss but it wasnt strong enough in my case to cut through the adhesive, but I had 20lb fishing line that I had used to remove an emblem from a car and that worked well. I think the key is to pull the adhesive strips nearly straight down and not to the side.

Roger Stroud - 返信

Both adhesive tabs broke for me. I ended up starting with the hairdryer then trying floss and then a plastic card which was too flimsy. In the end I used the plastic wedging tool to pry the battery up and hold it there. With the battery raised, on the side closest to the phone edge I was able to scrape the adhesive strip together enough with the tweezers and then my fingers to pull at it laterally stretching it so that it came away in one piece. The battery was slightly dented and bent, but not punctured at this point. The second strip near the logic board was much higher and necessitated bending the battery much more and just holding it there. I couldn't get the battery up enough for fear of a puncture so I just held it there as the adhesive slowly detached itself and in the end the battery just popped free. Not sure if the warming from the hair dryer made any difference.

Jimmy Howlum - 返信

I used an ID card (without magnetic strip) just like the picture above to wedge the battery up to reach the broken adhesive strip.

malowitzp - 返信

This part is where I almost gave up. The strips broke, I tried to pry it out, then I heated the back with a hair dryer. I used an ID card and got under it and shimmied left and right until the battery was able to break look from the strips. Afterwards the battery was bent which concerned me it could just break. At this point I realized, yes, Apple does not want you to get in their phones. After it came out all went well and was glad to have finished this.

Garret Gray - 返信

For me the strips broke and I had to use credit card to detach the battery. This is quite tricky thing.

Kristaps Grinbergs - 返信

Cool trick, used hair dryer and gentle persuasions.

Richard W - 返信

Be careful if you have failed to pull out the adhesive near logic board. Since the cable responsible for power button and mic near the back cam lays above apple’s logo plate, when you pull out the battery with logo plate sticked with it, you may damage the cable. Mine cable was damaged in this way.

Berry Wang - 返信

Used the floss technique and damaged the volume control cable. Fortunately complete cable and button assembly is a $9 part on Amazon.

stvn chng - 返信

If u read the instructions in advance this is where u consider not doing this. Getting the battery away from the adhesive strips is a bear. The floss idea is a joke.

james licata - 返信

Battery removal with adhesive stuck under the battery using floss personal record was around 10 minutes.

Tri Vuong - 返信

using fishing line worked well for me. the wire was cutting into the battery pack and dental floss would not work.

Jeremy Thiriot - 返信

I too found that fishing line, specifically 10 lb test Fireline braid fishing line, is an excellent alternative to floss or wire due to its strength and small diameter. I tied washers on each end using a Palomar note to provide a secure grip.

Patrick Langvardt - 返信

  • iPhoneからバッテリーを取り外します。

  • 交換用のバッテリーがプラスチック製のスリーブに入っている場合は、作業前にリボンケーブルからスリーブを引き抜いてください。

  • バッテリーを取り付ける際は、こちらのガイドを参照して、バッテリーの接着剤を交換してください。

  • 再組み立て後はハードリセットを行ってください。起こりうる幾つかの問題を解決してくれるトラブルシューティングとなります。

This was very helpful

PRABHUDEV KULKARNI - 返信

I got the battery out but what if it the battery bends a bit????

babyuk76 - 返信

A bit of bending is probably fine as long as you are planning to replace the battery. Don't try to reuse a bent battery. In any case, try not to bend it any more than necessary, as bending increases the risk of fire.

Jeff Suovanen -

I need a little help... I've been through your tutorial and success... all gone smoothly.

But.... I've had it on charge for 25 minutes... no charging symbol, no life at all... how long does a new battery take to charge before you notice any life?????

joehopkin2016 - 返信

It can take a little while. If it doesn't power on after a little more time has gone by, open your phone back up and double-check your cable connectors. If that doesn't work, try plugging in your old battery to see if it behaves the same way. If you continue to have problems, drop a post in our Answers forum for more detailed troubleshooting. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Well, the screen removal step is completely unnecessary and cost me the functionality of my front facing camera. I would remove it from the guide altogether.

migue31096 - 返信

There's no way I could have replaced the battery without removing the screen. It took a fair amount of wrangling to remove the battery.

Steve Allen -

It depends on your experience level. If you don't successfully remove both pull tabs, it's much easier to pry the battery out if the screen isn't connected. Most professionals probably leave the screen connected to save some time but we recommend beginners remove the screen to minimize the risk of damaging the display's ribbon cables.

Evan Noronha -

Got it working turned it off now it doesn't want to turn on!!

Juan Ramirez - 返信

You should add a comment about the best way (environmentally) to dispose of this battery.

malowitzp - 返信

You should add the final step of connecting the battery cable and finishing the install. I followed these steps and my phone is dead and no longer works, so not sure if I connected the battery cable incorrectly. It doesn't secure as tight as the original was, but there is no guidance in this guide on how to reinstall it. The youtube videos skip past the final steps too.

Jay - 返信

@jaybytez Sorry you're having trouble! Installation for the most part is just the reverse of removal. There's a link in the final step and the conclusion for how to install new adhesive strips and stick the battery down. To reconnect the battery to the logic board, just position the connector over its socket and press gently until it clicks into place. Same goes for all the other connectors. I'd suggest going through the guide a second time and checking your work carefully. If you're not sure whether the battery is connecting correctly, try the old battery again for comparison. If you continue to have trouble, reach out to our customer support team or try posting your issue in the Answers forum. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

("Never" part 1 of 4)

If you are only directly interested in the current instructional steps for iPhone 6 battery replacement, please know that this 4-part comment simply upvotes/supports Jay's post above.     (4-parts needed as ran up against the character limit for this box.)

This is a commentary on this specific guide, yes, but it really applies to all guides I've read so far on iFixit, so I am not critiquing the author per se. This turned into a global recommendation for possible improvement in the fundamental approach that iFixit takes in writing ALL of the guides.

I agree with Jay 100% and I think the iFixit community would benefit tremendously if this suggestion were taken more seriously, namely that reassembly should be addressed as a separate instruction. Here is my further claim:

Reassembly is NEVER simply following disassembly instructions in reverse order.

It is never “just the reverse of removal.”

(Cont'd)

Paul -

("Never" part 2 of 4)

If you tend to disagree with my statement, simply try dragging the included YouTube video in reverse. Then try to follow that along while reassembling your phone. As just one example, see if you have great success reconnecting the battery connector to the logic board using the opening tool in the same manner as you used it during disassembly. Heck, try using the opening tool in a different manner if you like, but go ahead and reattach the connector using the opening tool. It is even called an “opening” tool - the very name of the tool shows you that it would NOT be included in a reversal of the instructions. That would require a “closing” tool. In this case, the “closing” tool is actually wisely recommended to be our fingers, applying gentle pressure, and in one case (I believe it was for the display connector) even pressing on the connector in a very particular manner (not much in the middle).

(Cont'd)

Paul -

("Never" part 3 of 4)

If you still question my claim that reassembly is never simply following disassembly instructions in reverse, it might be a very interesting exercise to record yourself actually reassembling the item (you already have the cameras present and rolling anyway, why not for a little while longer?). If you did that, and watched the assembly video side by side with the disassembly, you will quickly see all the many differences there are. I imagine that would be all it would take to convince "the powers that be" at iFixit that it would be a very good recommendation to authors that they complete the full round trip. Alternately, as I said, you could simply watch any of the current videos in reverse while actually performing reassembly, and could then at least add notes to existing content regarding the differences (as was done with the display connector NOTE found in this article above - I thought that was a really nice touch, BTW).

(Cont'd)

Paul -

("Never" part 4 of 4)

In closing, I really, really like iFixit, so I hope this recommendation is helpful and I hope it is received as such, as constructive criticism. Just trying to make iFixit even better, on its way to becoming an indispensable resource to all.  :-)

(End of "Never" comment)

Paul -

@spacemanspiff2 As you seem to have noticed, there are reassembly bullets sprinkled throughout each guide specifically to mark the areas where additional instructions are provided for reassembly. Hence the qualifier, “Installation for the most part is just the reverse of removal.” When it’s not, reassembly tips are added to the appropriate step. In those cases where more is needed, you’ll find reassembly steps or even a full-blown reassembly guide.

Jeff Suovanen -

Pre-bend the new battery connector cable! If doing this again I would make sure I had pre-bent the connector cable the same way as the original battery is bent. I did not and then once the new battery was glued down I could not get at it well to bend it properly. I had to wedge the extra cable in a bit and then the very small extra thickness left a small color distortion on the screen due to the additional pressure on the back of the display.

SC - 返信

Es posible que al instalar una batería no original falle a continuación él detector de huella en un iPhone 6 ?

Jose Luis Arias - 返信

Well, I disassembled my work phone after buying just the battery. Now I find out the battery doesn’t come with these adhesive strips. Too late, I need this phone. Nice.

Wesley French - 返信

Hi Wesley!

I’m sorry to hear about the trouble. If you ordered just the battery and not the Fix Kit option, then the adhesive strips are not included and are sold separately. This is mentioned on the product page. If you’re still in need, you can find them right here: iPhone 6/6s/7 Battery Adhesive Strips

However, the battery should still technically perform just fine for you without the adhesive strips, as these are primarily used to keep the battery structurally adhered to the inside of the phone. If you are mindful of how well you handle your device (ie: Don’t throw it across the room, or go running with it in your hand), you shouldn’t have too much to worry about. Otherwise, it would be best to replicate the way the batteries come in all iPhones and get yourself a set of adhesive strips.

Kadan Sharpe -

Yeah, the glue tab part is where this is not realistic to do yourself… mine tore off and now the battery is stuck in there, with no way to get it out and now voided. Your special tools are a joke.

David Roberts - 返信

Assuming I get through this procedure, are we supposed to cycle the battery a certain way?

Mark Lynch - 返信

Assemble in reverse needs update because I fix it now includes a screen gasket with no instruction. I’ve got a feeling I need to disconnect screen again in order to install it???

fm Haynie - 返信

@docwild There is no screen gasket on the iPhone 6. If you’re working on an iPhone 6s, the instructions are here, and there’s a link in Step 21 with instructions for replacing the gasket.

Jeff Suovanen -

I agree with the comment about pre-bending the cable first. I didn’t look close enough at the original battery and it looked like the replacement battery had a completely different cable. Then I realized that the cable turned up 180 degrees and then bent over 90 degrees.

brian - 返信

  • 上部ケーブルブラケットから次の#00プラスネジを外します。

    • 2.9 mm ネジー1本

    • 2.2 mmネジー1本

コメントを追加する

  • iPhoneから上部のケーブルブラケットを取り出します。

コメントを追加する

  • 接合ブラケットから次の#00プラスネジを 4本取り外します。

    • 1.5 mmネジー1本

    • 1.4 mmネジー1本

    • 2.1 mmネジー2本

コメントを追加する

  • iPhoneから接合ブラケットを取り出します。

コメントを追加する

  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ボリュームコントールのケーブルコネクターをソケットから持ち上げて外します。

    • ロジックボード上のソケットではなく、コネクターのみを持ち上げてください。ソケットに接触すると永久的なダメージの原因となります。

コメントを追加する

  • ボリュームコントールのケーブルブラケットから次の#00プラスネジを外します。

    • 2.3 mmネジー2本

    • 1.8 mmネジー1本

コメントを追加する

  • ボタンカバーにアクセスするするため、背面ケースからボリュームコントロールとボタンブラケットを持ち上げて取り出します。

コメントを追加する

  • 背面ケースのコネクター端からボリュームコントロールボタンのケーブルを剥がします。

    • 背面ケースからケーブルの薄い部分を剥がす作業は慎重に行ってください。

  • 背面ケースからボリュームコントロールボタンのケーブルを取り出します。

After unscrewing the metal bar that holds the cable, I had a lot of trouble with separating those two parts. After ripping it out the metal bar, I've found out that the cable was soldered to the bar. I tried to fit the cable again and screwed the metal bar back in but the mute switch is loose now and its impossible to change/switch it. Did any of you encounter this? Any ideas for that? This part is quite important but skipped by the guide.

ivul - 返信

Did you figure this out? I'm having the same problem with the mute switch being loose. It seems like it needs pressure on the top edge of the switch (ie. not the back of the switch where the metal bracket that screws into the phone casing, and not the front where the outer switch is). I can't figure out how to keep pressure on that top edge so the switch isn't loose.

Ed Varga -

I just did this repair. You have to use a soldering iron to melt the three plastic posts on the mute button. The posts need to be melted while you hold the mute button flush against the bracket with a pair of tweezers. Make sure the posts are melted all the way down to the bracket so it stays secure. Also, be sure not to allow the soldering iron tip touch the mute/volume flex cable. Cheers!

Eddie -

These instructions are not complete. The mute switch has to come apart which is not covered here and there are three plastic posts that have to go into the bracket. Disassembly of the flex needs to be covered in the final disassembly instructions. Also disassembly of the power buttons from the bracket should be covered in the instructions.

Bobby Gorden - 返信

As stated above, the instructions seem lacking with regard to the mute switch and the volume control buttons. The comments above were very helpful and luckily for me I have a soldering iron. On the mute button, there were two very small metal brackets I lifted up to release the mute button. I used an exacto knife to cut the rear of the three plastic posts. This released the old cable from the mute button bracket. I then installed the new cable to the mute button bracket and melted the three posts with a soldering iron. For the volume control bracket, I pried the metal bar off the bracket. I agonized as to how to replace the new cable with the micro switches to the metal bracket. Soldering seemed risky as I did not want to damage the micro switches. Since I was also replacing the battery, I had new adhesive strips for the battery. I cut a small strip of double sided adhesive adhere the micro switches to the bracket, being careful to align the plastic posts. All is well so far.

Scott Wilson - 返信

Please fix this post! The info about mute is very important.

nandogbr - 返信

The comments were very helpful in understanding how to remove the bracket from the mute button and then re-fix it using the soldering iron to melt the three plastic posts. However it was not clear for me from the comments how to remove the small metal plate that is that glued to the volume switches. And also what is the right procedure to refix this plate to the new cable. Since my problem is only that the up volume button is not working I decided to reassemble the phone waiting this guy to be a little bit more clear about this two topics.

gsanse - 返信

Does anyone know how to correctly attach the metal part with the colour to a new switch?

Tristan Bettesworth - 返信

The complete cable, buttons and bracket assembly is available on Amazon for $9 as of January 13, 2018.

stvn chng - 返信

まとめ

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、このインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

36 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:

100%

Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています! 貢献してみませんか?
翻訳を始める ›

Sam Lionheart

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These instructions are so AWESOME to be able to reference! That last 1.8mm screw was a pain to get out of my phone. Step-by-Step, worked EXCELLENT. Thanks for posting these!

Brian S Graham - 返信

TRICKY BITS: replacing the mute switch lever onto the cable assembly is a bit…interesting. It was only when I used the Head Magnifier that I was able to see the mechanics of the switch and fit it on. There needs to be a seriously microscopic shot of that mechanical fit!

But, get the magnifier, it’s great for digging out splinters from your fingers.

SUGGESTION: Once you get the switch and the bracket situated, but before you stick the control cable to the case, make sure the switch functions. I had to loosen the three screws and place pressure on the assembly, holding the switch firmly in place, before it made a solid fit-then I tightened the three screws. Voila, the switch works!

Only then should did I bond the cable to the case

And now my phone rings again! Yay, no more missed calls!

maxB - 返信

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