はじめに

iPhone5cのLightningコネクターと音量ポートケーブルを交換する際はこの手順を参照してください。

このガイドを使って、

マイクガスケットの交換もできます。

ビデオの概要

  1. ディスプレイガラスにひび割れがある場合、修理作業中の怪我を防ぐため、ガラス表面にテープを貼って破損箇所が広がらないようにします。
    • ディスプレイガラスにひび割れがある場合、修理作業中の怪我を防ぐため、ガラス表面にテープを貼って破損箇所が広がらないようにします。

    • iPhoneの画面上に透明テープを貼り、表面全体を覆います。

      • これはガラスの破片を固定し、ディスプレイをこじ開けたり、引き上げた際に構造を保つことができます。

    • 作業中にガラスの破片が目に飛び散るのを防ぐため、保護メガネを着用ください。

    コメントを追加する

  2. 次の手順に進む前に、iPhoneのバッテリーを25%以下まで消費してください。充電されたリチウムイオンバッテリーはアクシデントで穴が空いてしまうと、引火や爆発の恐れがあります。
    • 次の手順に進む前に、iPhoneのバッテリーを25%以下まで消費してください。充電されたリチウムイオンバッテリーはアクシデントで穴が空いてしまうと、引火や爆発の恐れがあります。

    • 解体作業を始める前にiPhoneの電源を切ってください。

    • Lightningコネクター両側の 3.8 mmペンタロープネジを2本取り外します。

    to keep screws in order, buy some double sided tape and then affix the tape in small pieces to a sheet of paper. As you take the screws out, you can affix them to the tape (which is on the paper) and then write a description of what they are and where they go. quick, cheap and easy.

    V. Jones - 返信

    • 次の2つの手順ではiPhone 5c本体を安全に開口するために必須の工具であるiSclackの使い方を紹介します。ぜひiPhone 5, 5sや 5cの修理作業でこの工具をご利用ください。iSclackをご利用にならない場合は手順5までスキップしてください。

    • iSclackのレバーを閉め吸盤カップを開きます。

    • 吸盤カップの間にiPhoneを挟みプラスチックの溝に本体の下部を差し込みます。

      • 上部の吸盤カップはホームボタンより上に接着させてください。

    • iSclackのレバーを開いて吸盤を閉じます。iPhoneの両面、中心部に吸盤カップをしっかりと押し当てます。

    I just replaced my iPhone 5C battery today and only used the I fix it repair kit that came with the suction cup. Getting the glass screen out was not too difficult as I used a little bit of upward motion on the suction cup while at the same time prying gently with the flat end of the opening tool at the same time. If you have two people it makes it a little easier as someone can hold the phone. After getting the end open, I was able to go around the perimeter and gently pry up the edges with very little trouble.

    V. Jones - 返信

    Experienced immediate problem: there is s strap going from the home button to the screen, about 1-1/2 inch long. After removing 3-4 screws I saw no way to disconnect it from either end. My daughter came to help get the screws back (my 70 years have problems with very tiny screws). Slid a piece back and the strap came free of the home button ares. Screen could only open then 75-80 degrees. Tapr tore. Pried battery out. Replaced on original sticky tape. Restarted fine and about to recycle the charge. Thanks for the kit and all. But 6 demos and 3 inatructions never mentioned this strip! So careful opening it up, please!!

    Michael W Mason - 返信

    @mikamazn What you’re describing sounds like an iPhone 5s. This guide is for the 5c. Glad to hear things worked out for you.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    • iPhoneを両手でしっかりと持ち、吸盤を引き離すようにiSclackの持ち手を閉めていきます。するとフロントパネルが背面ケースから持ちあがってきます。

    • iSclackはiPhoneを安全に開口できるようにデザインされていますが、ホームボタンケーブルにダメージを与える場合があります。

    • 2つの吸盤カップを iPhoneから取り外してください

    • 次の3つの手順をスキップして手順8まで進んでください。

    コメントを追加する

    • カップをしっかりとホームボタン上部のスクリーンにしっかりと密着させます。

    • カップの吸盤がスクリーンにしっかりと密着していることを確認してください。

    very, very difficult to get a tight seal on tape. I removed the tape and still can't get a tight seal.

    bromanmoon - 返信

    • 吸盤カップがフロントパネルアセンブリに密着していることを確認してください。

    • iPhone を片手でしっかりと抑えながら、吸盤カップを少しずつ引き上げて、本体背面ケースからフロントパネルのホームボタン端を引き離していきます。

    • 時間をかけてゆっくりと同じ力加減で作業します。ディスプレイアセンブリは他のデバイスに比べて、特に頑丈に装着されています。

    • 吸盤カップを上に持ち上げながら、プラスチック製の開口ツールで、ゆっくりと背面ケースの端からフロントパネルアセンブリを引き離します。

    • フロントパネルアセンブリを背面ケースに留めているクリップが幾つか付けられています。フロントパネルアセンブリを外すには、吸盤カップとプラスチック開封ツール両方を使う必要があります。

    Cover a badly cracked screen with a strip of packing tape first to get a better seal for your suction cup. If it's a super crappy suction cup, moistening it a bit will help as well.

    Dan - 返信

    Great Idea! I have been doing this for awhile and have never thought to share!

    duston -

    The pry point in this photo is spot on. Just be gentle and maybe come in at a little steeper angle.

    V. Jones - 返信

    • 吸盤カップの持ち手を引っ張り、吸盤カップの吸引シールを弱めます。

    • ディスプレイアセンブリから吸盤カップを取り外します。

    コメントを追加する

    • フロントパネルのホームボタン端を持ち上げて開き、本体上部付近のコネクターにアクセスします。

    • ディスプレイを約90度の角度で開き、作業中邪魔にならないよう、後ろに衝立を設置して固定します。

      • 緊急の際は、衝立として未開封の飲料缶をご利用できます。

    • 作業中、ディスプレイをしっかりと固定するためにゴムで留めてください。ディスプレイケーブルに余剰な力が加わるのを防いでくれます。

    Using a can works really well!

    Amy Dachs - 返信

    • ロジックボードに留められたメタル製のバッテリコネクターのブラケットから1.6 mm #000プラスネジを2本外します。

    These screws are very tiny and hard to manipulate. The screwdriver is magnetic; which is great to take them out, but makes it hard to put the screws back in, as the screwdriver pulls them from the hole. I solved this problem by using the pointed end of the spudger to put a tiny drop of Elmer's glue in the hole and then insert the screw. You can do this before putting the bracket in place if you want. Then the screw wont pull out by the magnetic driver and make lining up and fastening the screws much easier; at least for me!

    Joe Shirghio - 返信

    I found that you don't need to disconnect the battery... why bother doing more fiddling with annoyingly tiny screws and obstinate cable connectors when you don't actually have to? Especially when you could only end up causing more damage. As a matter of fact, the original iFixit video didn't bother to disconnect the battery either, but they've since updated the video to include battery disconnection, I guess as a "belt and braces" approach in case the repair-hero forgets to power down the phone first?

    Michael Allen - 返信

    Disconnecting the battery is a safety precaution, and yes it's worth doing. Even with the phone powered off, there is some danger of blowing the backlight filter fuse if you disconnect the display while the battery is connected. At that point you're no longer looking at a simple DIY repair. Even though it's possible to skip this step and still come out okay, my advice is not to risk it.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    • iPhoneからバッテリーコネクターのブラケットを取り出します。

    コメントを追加する

    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボードからバッテリコネクターを外します。

    Why do we need to disconnect the battery?

    Maria Raesch - 返信

    Sorry, I missed the comments on step 9 that detail the procedure.

    Maria Raesch - 返信

    Instead of using a spudger, you can use your fingernails too. This is quicker and enables you to feel if you're not accidentally putting on too much pressure or lifting the connector instead of the cable.

    Jona Wolff - 返信

    Accidentally pulling out the logic board socket is no idle warning - exactly what I did without much effort. I think this shouldn’t be described as ‘prying’ up because it implies needing to use force - but these things actually pop off quite easily with a nudge, which you discover at later steps.

    Peter Hill - 返信

    • ロジックボードに留められたフロントパネルアセンブリケーブルブラケットから、次の#000 プラスネジを外します。

      • 1.3 mmネジー2本

      • 1.7 mmネジー1本

      • 3.25 mm ネジー1本

    • 再組み立ての際には上記手順にあるネジの位置を十分に確認してください。謝って右側下のネジ穴に3.25 mmのネジや1.7 mm ネジのどちらかを装着すると、デバイスが正しく機能せず、ロジックボードに致命的なダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。

    • ネジを固く締めすぎないようにご注意ください。簡単にネジが留まらない場合は、誤ったサイズのネジを装着している可能性があります。無理に留めないでください。

    In step 9: I think you are talking about the 3,25 and 1,7mm one not the 1,3 and the 1,7mm?

    Siegbert Waldner - 返信

    DO NOT Remove the battery, there is no need to and can cause unnecessary damage! There's a tutorial on YouTube that does it without!

    Alister Malcolm - 返信

    I didn't need to remove the front panel to replace the lightning connector. Just prop it up like in Step 8, then skip steps 12-16.

    jacobstevens - 返信

    I always put my screws in a magnet tray and place the screws in the exact position they were taken out. The magnet tray holds the screws tight in the position I put them in. No chasing on the floor looking for small screws that you brushed off the table.

    Fredrick Apel - 返信

    I always take a picture of the phone, print it out, then use scotch tape to tape the screws onto the picture in the location where they go. You don't lose the screws and you always know where they go for re-assembly

    K Jansen - 返信

    good tip! but instead of taking & printing a picture of your own phone, you probably could just print the color coded pic from this step (assuming everything on your phone is exactly the same).

    travismlive -

    When reassembling, the screw holder that the screws screw into came off the board. Is there a way to superglue that back in?

    Chandler Perez - 返信

    no, do not use super-glue. Quite some of these ‘screw-holders’ are screws themselves with e hollow tread in the head (didn’t find the correct naming for it) - just like the things you screw into a PC case and fasten the mainboard on.

    akronymus -

    did NOT remove the front entirely. its not necessary to do this to remove the battery. these are only precautionary steps in case your clumsy or you feel you might not be able to manage it without. as always, be cautious.

    matt - 返信

    *warning* … this connector assembly is very messy to re-build. Next time I change such a battery, I’ll try to get it out carefully *without* detaching the display unit. My resumée: *never* unscrew more things than necessary. These things are not M five (5 mm bolt diameter) like on a bike, these are M zero-point-five. Even for a smirf, this is tiny stuff.

    akronymus - 返信

    • ロジックボードからフロントパネルアセンブリのケーブルブラケットを取り出します。

    コメントを追加する

    • プラスチック開口ツールを使って、正面カメラとセンサーケーブルコネクターの接続を外します。

    • コネクターのみに接触してください。ロジックボードのソケットには触れないでください。

    コメントを追加する

    • フロントパネルを手で固定しながら、LCDケーブルコネクターを外します。

      • LCDとデジタイザーコネクターは同じケーブルアセンブリに繋がっています。そのため、LCDコネクターの接続を外すと双方のコネクターが外れてしまいます。ディスプレイを取り出す前に、2つのケーブルの接続が完全に切ってあるか確認してください。

    • デバイスを再組み立てする際に、LCDケーブルがコネクターから外れてしまうことがあります。これは電話の電源を入れた時、黒い画面に白い線が入る状態の原因となります。この症状が現れる場合は単純にケーブルをコネクターに再接続をして、電話を再起動してください。電話の再起動はバッテリーを一度外して、再度取り付けます。

    I replaced the broken front panel of the iPhone 5c and got the "famous white stripes" on the new screen. Reading about all kind of problems that the lcd/digitizer cable contacts may cause, I compared the cable connectors of the original Apple and the replacement part I bought online with a 35x magnifying glass. The quality difference was visible: The white description on the original part on the cable next to the connector is: 821-1784-A, while the inferior replacement part is: 821-1784-02. Check out the two numbers online and insist getting the "A" to avoid future troubles !!!

    Harold Wallner - 返信

    This person above is not knowledgeable. That number is a camera proxy part number, not the lcd or digitizer number. It changes with production date, both for original and aftermarket ones. A, B, D, 02, 04, 08 etc. Can all be either or.

    vince -

    Apple uses numerical revisions (-02) for pre-production parts, and alpha revisions (-A) for production revisions. It looks like you got a preproduction assembly, or a knock-off.

    terrymccallum -

    There are, in fact, three connectors in this step, not two. The front-facing camera and digitizer connector (Step 11) is really difficult to align when you put it back. Took me about 15 minutes before I succeeded.

    Now I have a different problem. Everything works just dandy, EXCEPT:

    Towards the bottom of the screen (in portrait) there is a horizontal line that is dead to the touch. For example, on the keyboard, I can use the spacebar, but not C V B N M, etcetera.

    Three possibilities in my mind: One, when I dropped it, something else besides the glass and digitizer, etc, was damaged.

    Two: I did not replace the cables correctly. This seems unlikely. They all "clicked" into place and stayed there.

    Three: The digitizer supplied is faulty.

    Comments? Which cable/connector could be causing this -- if it is that?

    piet - 返信

    Take apart, Clean Connections, Put back together.... If same problem sounds like a fault part...

    duston -

    When reassembling the iPhone 5c, I used the flat end of the spudger to press on the connectors and maintain them while replacing the front panel on the body of the iPhone.

    The third and "deepest" connector no longer slips out of its socket, which it did before holding the whole lot with the spudger.

    jimbbo - 返信

    If the ESD plate covering the connectors is properly re-attached to the phone, you should not have to do this. The cover holds all the connectors in place just fine.

    iBroke -

    • 背面ケースからフロントパネルアセンブリを取り外します。

    Very clear and percise.

    Jessica Fader - 返信

    • スパッジャーの先端をバッテリーとヘッドフォンジャックの間に差し込み、バッテリー接着タブを開きます。

    I didn't need to remove the battery to replace the lightning connector assembly. Skip past steps 17 through 25.

    jacobstevens - 返信

    I agree, waste of time and you risk damaging the battery if the adhesive is too strong.

    GotMac -

    the adhesive tab is actually folded back upon itself. Gentle agitation on what appears to be the edge will in fact show you that it is flexible and can be "unfolded". When unfolded, it will allow you to see what they are talking about. GENTLE is the operative word !

    V. Jones - 返信

    I also didn't need to remove the battery to replace the lightening cable. I'd say skip it unless you have big fingers, because it is a tight space.

    Benjamin Browning - 返信

    • 電話本体からバッテリー接着タブを取り出します。

    It is a must to use a little heat. In my instance I used some hand warmers. My first attempt was with some older ones that didn’t get too hot. I then pulled out some others and using a little bit of time and several hand warmers it seemed to soften the grip of the tape underneath the battery. Using a hair dryer might have been my next step had my hand warmer trick not worked. USE HEAT!!!! It is your friend.

    V. Jones - 返信

    • 2本の白い接着ストリップの間に装着されている黒色のバッテリー接着タブを二つに切ります。

    Pulling upwards with a gentle tug on the now exposed black end of the adhesive tab will reveal a white film (look at the end of the tweezers). This white/black interface will have a small cutout already in the middle. Cut the adhesive tab using this as a midpoint guide.

    V. Jones - 返信

    Use heat beforehand to soften the grip of the sticky double sided tape that is used to keep the battery in place. USING HEAT IS A PREREQUISITE if you want this to go smoother. I also ended up using a little dental floss the come from underneath and then used it to saw back and forth to loosen the grip of the tape. Just take your time and use the magic of heat to loosen the grip.

    V. Jones - 返信

    • 作業中、ストリップを水平にシワが入らないように保ってください。シワが入ったストリップは付着して、引っ張るかわりに裂けてしまいます。

    • ゆっくりとバッテリーからバッテリーの接着ストリップをiPhoneの下側に向けて引っ張ります。

    • バッテリーと背面ケースの間からストリップが出てくるまで、均一の力で継続的に引き抜きます。一番良い角度はストリップを60度以下で引っぱることです。

    • ストリップを電話本体の他のコンポーネントに向けて引っ張らないようにご注意ください。接着ストリップに穴があいてしまい、裂けてしまう原因となります。

    • ストリップは本来の長さから何倍にも伸びます。必要に応じて、ストリップをバッテリーの近くまで持ち替えて完全に外れるまで続けて引っ張ります。

    I pulled the first tab straight up and it snapped. I tried to see if I could pry the battery out but couldn't without bending the battery. So I left the battery in and was able to complete this without removing it. However, I'm pretty sure I damaged the battery. Waiting on the replacement battery now to confirm. Long story short, leave the battery in for this fix!

    lew - 返信

    When I tried to remove the adhesive, it snapped on both sides. Even though I was careful not to bend or twist. But now the battery is still stuck in place. What do I do now?

    lynn - 返信

    Keep reading; there are some additional steps you can take toward the end of the guide. The battery is much easier to remove if you keep the pull tabs intact, but they can be tricky.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My tabs broke. I had to pry the battery out. Took my time and it came out okay. The adhesive residue was a pain to remove though.

    mwtort - 返信

    My tabs broke as well, quite close to the battery's lower corners. Then I discovered a reasonably hot surface to place the phone - my quite old Apple Airport Extreme. I warmed the phone for a couple of 3 minute sessions, that didn't loosen the glue but made it more malleable. Then proceeded to carefully pull the tab on the logic board's side with tweezers, which was a success. After that I could get an old ID card under the battery and push the other tab into itself. That done, the glue basically gave out and the battery was free.

    So my advice would be to use some sort of heat before pulling on the tabs, which will make them a bit easier to work with. It does take some time but result counts, right?

    jukkaharkonen - 返信

    This is the most awful thing: removing the battery. The adhesive holds sooo strong. I ripped it off very soon. So i heated the back of the iPhone with a hair dryer up and opened the battery with scissors. Then i could draw the battery off.

    5c is much better to repair then my last repaired iPhone. A 3gs :-)

    Tanx ifixit. You are the best.

    Achim Graether - 返信

    I don't thnk we need Steps 9 to 12 to remove the battery

    Leave the display attached is you only need to replace the battery !!!

    lmusolino -

    @lmusolino of course you can skip those steps (9-12) but it's risky for those digitizer to be damaged if you are careless while removing the battery.

    John Mark Booc -

    This was more tricky than I thought. I bent the original battery quite hard to get it of, while blowing the phone with a hair dryer. I fixed two 5c's for my kids and I ordered one kit and a extra battery. I didn't understand when ordering that just one pair of adhesive strips came along, with the kit. I partial them using one strip each on the phones. Hope that it will work. Everything seems to work with the phones.

    Peter Rousu - 返信

    Don't pull too hard or it will break just gently apply presaure

    Shsjsjakkaka - 返信

    If u do break the tabs the lift the top end of th battery and get them from that end

    Shsjsjakkaka - 返信

    the adhesive is very strong and does NOT pull free. you MUST use heat (iopener) or similar to apply heat to it. go slow and when (not if) the adhesive snaps you will have to find a way to shove a spudger or an old credit card under the battery. after that, just rub your finger over the adhesive firmly and “roll” it out. this stuff is really nasty.

    matt - 返信

    Whilst pulling the adhesive strips from beneath the battery, I was making sure to not pull too fast and also to keep in flat, not twisted, and it still snapped on both sides way before I even got half way… I haven’t had my battery replaced at all so the adhesive should be authentic Apple factory standards. Be SUPER careful at this stage people, I’m going to try and remove the battery with the adhesive in place :S

    Steve Hind - 返信

    • 続けて2番目の接着ストリップを取り出します。

    I was able to remove the first strip as the guide discusses in Step#20. When I attempted to peel the second strip, as in Step #21 above, it broke. This left the adhesive strip on half of the battery and I was unable to grip anything. I got some dental floss and threaded it underneath the already free side. I then used a slight back and forth motion to loosen the grip of the other half of the strip enough that I could "GENTLY" pry the free side of the battery up. Taking extreme care not to pry against any components of the phone. I then gently pried the battery up a little at a time along with using a sawing motion on the dental floss to eventually free the battery from the underlying adhesive strip. Takes patience and persistence. GENTLY being the operative word.

    V. Jones - 返信

    At this step, be VERY careful with the two gold-colored prongs (pins) right next to the lightening cable port. If you crush/bend/collapse these pins, they won’t make contact with the screen side when re-assemble the phone, making your Home button non-functional.

    If accidentally collapsed the pin because you pushed on it, be VERY careful bending it back. You have one shot at getting this right. Over-bending leads to the pins breaking off, and then you’re really f’ed. That’s what happened to me, and I had to solder some tin onto the base to build-up to the right height; very tedious.

    https://s.real.com/jnjcW3 This shows photo of what I’m talking about.

    Jack Chang - 返信

    • iPhoneからバッテリーを取り出します。

    • 接着ストリップの一方あるいは両方が裂けてしまい、ピンセットを使ってストリップを取り出すことができない場合、電話本体からバッテリーをこじ開けて取り出さないでください。バッテリーを安全に取り出すために次の手順に進んでください。

    Use heat before attempting to remove adhesive strips. They will break. Heat helps tp loosen the grip and is your friend. Dental floss can also be a good helper to saw back and forth once you get it under one corner of the battery. Go slow and take your time. USE HEAT BEFOREHAND. I FOUNF THAT IT TOOK A GOOD 3-5 minutes to get everything hot enough to loosen the grip of the tape.

    V. Jones - 返信

    • 当社の iOpenerの利用方法をご覧になり、背面ケースにバッテリーが付けれらている接着剤を安全に温めます。

    • iOpenerバッグを取り扱う際は、大変熱くなるためお気をつけください。

    • 万が一、バッテリーが背面ケースに入ったままの状態で接着ストリップが切れてしまった場合は、iOpener やヘアードライアーを準備してバッテリー裏側に直接当てて温めます

    • iOpenerバッテリーを取り出す前に約90秒間、iPhoneの上にこのバッグを寝かしてください。

    you can substitute a 'bed buddy' or similar microwave activated heating pack here for the iOpener. i eventually wound up working on-top-of the heading pad as at softened the adhesive. take your time and let the heat work

    Pritchett Harris - 返信

    A hairdryer works too. Aim it at the same spot on the back of the phone, don't let it get too hot though.

    Dan Harris - 返信

    Instead of using the iOpener, I opted for my “patented” “Rice in a sock” and heated the sock for 1 minute, which worked perfectly. I laid the heated sock flat and used it as a mini work bench while removing the adhesive strip! My wife uses this for when she has head aches, which caused “me to not have a headache”, when peeling back the adhesive strips!

    iScott - 返信

    • ロジックボード側のバッテリー下にプラスチックカードの端を丁寧に差し込んでいきます。

      • ロジックボード側に向けてバッテリーを押し出さないでください。デバイスにダメージを与えてしまいます。

      • バッテリーの上部端付近にカードを差し込まないでください。コンポーネント上部のリボンケーブルにダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。

    • バッテリーの上部から下部に向かってプラスチックカードをスライドし、背面ケースの端に向かって押し込みます。

    • 必要であれば、バッテリーのケース側でも同じ作業を繰り返してください。

    A picture of the position of the upper ribbon cable would be useful here. I have falsely thought that you only have to be careful around the top edge of the battery that is near the logic board, and have managed to cut the upper component cable with the plastic card.. :(

    Daniel Boros - 返信

    The third bullet of this step has a link to two photos of the cable.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If you’ve pried the battery out near the bottom, you might want to reseat the speaker assembly after putting the new battery back in - it’s very easy to knock the speaker and lightning connectors loose when getting the battery out this way.

    Tom Reeve - 返信

    I destroyed the ribbon cable that runs down the side of the case toward the headphone jack (not mentioned in the instructions!) while trying to wedge the battery out with a credit card. Am I SOL or is there a fix?

    Peter Hill - 返信

    Sounds like you hit the upper component cable mentioned in red in the instructions. “Avoid prying near the top edge of the battery, or you may damage the upper component ribbon cable.” You’ll likely need to replace the cable, or use on-screen accessibility button replacements. If you’d like to post photos to our Answers Forum, you may get more specific help for your situation. Best of luck!

    Sam Lionheart -

    • iPhoneからバッテリーを持ち上げて取り出します。

    • バッテリーは簡単に取り出せるはずです。接着剤がバッテリーに残っている場合は、iOpener を使って再度温めてから作業を再開してください。

    • バッテリーを再装着する際は、この手順を参照して、バッテリーの接着ストリップの交換を行ってください。

    • 再装着後はハードリセットを行ってください。この作業は幾つかの問題を防ぎ、トラブルシューティングを簡単にしてくれます。

    コメントを追加する

    • プラスチック製の開口ツールを使ってホームボタンのバネ接点ケーブルを内蔵スピーカーからこじ開け、取り出します。

    Ensure you note the routing of the antenna cable. Reassembly will require that the antenna cable goes above the corner of the speaker enclosure.

    plisi - 返信

    • 背面ケースに留められた内蔵スピーカーから次のネジを外します。

      • 2.7 mm #000プラスネジー2本

      • 2.2 mm #000プラスネジー1本

    These screws didn't fit our brand new Phillips #000 at all, but they did fit a J #000 just fine.

    Daniel Beardsley - 返信

    The light is not Working if I can get new iPhone 5c if okay with you

    Yashira Cancel - 返信

    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、丁寧に背面ケースから内蔵スピーカーを取り出します。

    コメントを追加する

    • 内蔵スピーカーを取り出します。アンテナケーブルに引っかけないようご注意ください。

    I’ve done this twice and still cannot understand why we are removing the speaker before removing the antenna on top of it. It gets in the way, and again when you reverse the instructions when you put the antenna on first and then the speaker… I’ve been swapping those steps instead.

    domarius - 返信

    • スピーカー上の一番右端のネジは周囲に接続ブラケットが巻かれています。この小さなパーツが気づかないうちに取れてしまうことがあります。そのため先に取り出します。その際には再組み立て用に装着の方向を確認しておきましょう。

      • 画像にあるように、接続クリップ平面側はスピーカーに対して配置します。

    • スピーカーアセンブリ先端上のブラケットは接着されていますが、乱暴に扱ってしまうと取れることがあります。

      • 曲がった先端は上向きでスピーカーの外側先端と並列します。

    Why remove this microscopic bracket? That was the hardest part of the whole job. Just keep it on, but alert people to its presence to ensure they don't let it slip off. But putting it back on was a pain.

    jacobstevens - 返信

    I concur with "jacobstevens". I just left well-enough alone. I made sure that the bracket was intact and that it remained so during the remainder of the procedure so it was ready to go when re-assembling. I also understand why this step exists... CYA!

    plisi - 返信

    • プラスチック製の開口ツールを使ってロジックボード上ソケットからLightningコネクターのリボンケーブルの接続を外します。

    コメントを追加する

    • Lightningコネクターケーブルはロジックボード上のシールドに軽く接着されています。スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ケーブルを丁寧に剥がします。

    When reversing this and reseating the new component, you really need to give it a push to lock in. Just touching the connectors will make most of the phone work, but you need to have the connector locked in completely for the home button to activate

    EdTechMaker - 返信

    • ロジックボードのベースからセルラーアンテナのコネクターの接続を外します。

    This is not the wifi antenna. This is the primary cellular antenna.

    Tom Chai - 返信

    How the !&&* are you supposed to get this back on?! I just can't do it.

    leeprobert - 返信

    I usually hold the connector in place over the socket with a pair of tweezers, and then press it down with the flat end of a spudger.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    • 背面ケースに留められたLightningコネクターから次のネジを外します。

      • 3.4 mm #000プラスネジー2本

      • 2.2 mm #000プラスネジー1本

      • 2.7 mm #000プラスネジー1本

    The lower left corner (yellow circled) screw has probably "screwed" us - for some reason it just won't start turning. Perhaps some glue under this one, needs heat? Anyone else faced this issue?

    Darrell Drake - 返信

    I did not when doing this job. The only part that I found had some adhesive was the cellular antenna cable. Perhaps some heat in some cases is necessary, but go easy on it.

    Timothy Transue -

    Follow Up on this one -- turns out I had loosened the screw already but it got kinda "soft-stuck" and just would not fall out of the hole (or turn any further). I almost stripped it totally but then poked around by trying steps 35-37 in advance, then I found I could turn the screw back inward (clockwise), then back out again, and kind of jimmy it out of the hole to complete the disassembly. I was VERY lucky that it was still usable for the re-assembly with the replacement part.

    Darrell Drake - 返信

    • 背面ケースから丁寧にLightningコネクターアセンブリを剥がします。

    コメントを追加する

    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使ってアセンブリを完全に取り出してください。

    コメントを追加する

    • Lightningコネクターアセンブリを取り出します。

    • 小さなゴム製のガスケットがマイクに留められています。これを新しいアセンブリに移してください。

    Pay close attention to the orientation of the microphone gasket.

    There is also a small rubber gasket on the headphone jack that should also be transferred.

    ypolashek - 返信

    Yeah, that darn headphone jack gasket got me. I didn't notice it at all until it fell off the old assembly.

    plisi - 返信

まとめ

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらの手順を逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

122 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:

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Andrew Optimus Goldberg

メンバー登録日: 2009年10月17日

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I fix it. Tomorrow I was got my packet from ifixit.com with lightning assembly and today my iPhone 5c can charge again.

And I would like to tell you several words about a process:

1. Thanks Ifixit for the tools - pentalope screwdriver and a magnet mat - it was great

2. All was simple with a step by step instructions on site.

3. IMPORTANT!!!! Unnecessary to remove a battery before the Lightning assembly replace - replacement possible without it)))

4. Don't forget to remove a rubber head from an old microphone - new hasn't such part.

5. Don't forget to lay an antenna cable properly when install a speaker back.

6. All the parts are very small - a magnifying glass required)))

7. I was made it for 1 hour )))

Yan - 返信

Tried to fix a faulty headphone jack now with the new part, headphones arent recognised at all...

Thanks for any advice

Joshua - 返信

THOSE CHANGING JUST THE DOCK CONNECTOR!

Important! Steps 14, 15, and 19 through 28 are totally unnecessary. The SIM card is fine where it is, and the battery does not need to be removed to access everything. I would recommend disconnecting the battery connector while working, however.

Also, be careful with the little antenna where it connects to the dock connector flex. Mine broke off and had to be resoldered, but I bought the part on eBay.

Todd - 返信

Thanks for your feedback! We went ahead and removed the SIM card steps. It may be helpful to remove the battery in order to get enough clearance to separate the Lightning cable assembly from the rear case, but folks are certainly welcome to skip those steps if they are comfortable doing so. :)

Jeff Suovanen -

It is certainly not necessary to remove the battery in order to do this repair. I do not recommend following those steps.

kaniggit49 - 返信

In Step 37, Pay close attention to the orientation of the microphone gasket.

There is also a small rubber gasket on the headphone jack that should also be transferred.

ypolashek - 返信

Can i replace my iphone 5s motherboard with iphone 5c's motherboard?

Umer Zamad - 返信

The connectors are in different places, plus the 5C does not have a connector for Touch ID. I would say no.

Timothy Transue -

I ruined my battery, without necessity. But that's ok. Allways learning!

Renato Gaiarsa - 返信

Just followed the steps, took me about 2:30 hours (I had to do 2 attempts) but phone is back working 100%

It was difficult cause I have huge hands but this guide is quite good.

As other stated, I didn’t had to remove the battery.

Thanks ifixit

josecuadra - 返信

Why do we need a microphone gasket?

ashley hart - 返信

Clearly to channel the sound neatly from the outside to the inside of the case with no interference - muffling due to something being in the way, or vibrating of the case direct contact with the mic with nothing to absorb the shock. The mic is very tiny, when you’re working with parts this small, this stuff matters. The clarity of audio you’ve come to expect on phone calls doesn’t happen by magic.

domarius -

The hardest part - to connect back the antenna.. this challenge took the most of the time, everything else is pretty simple. No needs to take off the battery, but making next steps and keep the screen connected - just less comfortable. The guid is really helpful, thank you guys, but it would be even better to add more details and picture of the “small rubber gasket“ mentioned in last step 37, how take it off.. It took a while until I figured out what is it and how it’s mounted.

JackSparrowSL - 返信

I always use a bottle of wine and a rubber band to fix the upper part with the screen while working on the bottom part. Removing all connectors could result in connection problems so I avoid this by all means (ruined an iPhone 5s this way).

I also discovered that I didn’t needed to take off the screen protector. It fit that hard to the screen that the removal tool didn’t even cause the slightest bubbles.

Skyynet - 返信

Hey everyone,

after the replacement of the Jack and lightning connector I realized that only the right earpod is working, I checked with an other Headphone and the Earpods are working fine with the MacBook, so it has to be in the internals somewhere (and yes I made a fresh install of iOS)

Any suggestions to work this out?

loicluttmann - 返信

Great guide. Thanks.

I would like to comment that I was able to achieve this replacement without removing the battery. Some care is needed to avoid trapping the tab on the battery adhesive strip whilst refitting the components. I used the largest piece of adhesive protection film from the new part, to allow me to slide first the headphone jack socket, then the speaker assembly, past the battery adhesive tab without crumpling or trapping it. This removes the riskiest step (battery removal) and means that I didn’t need to buy new adhesive for the battery. There is a significant time saving by not needing to detach the screen assembly, which appears only to be necessary to allow the manipulation of the phone, necessary for battery removal.

ian - 返信

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