はじめに

すぐに充電が切れてしまいますか?バッテリーが驚くほど膨張していますか?以前のように上手く充電できないですか?iPhone 5cのバッテリーを交換するにはこの手順をご利用ください。

この手順ではフロントパネルアセンブリを取り出します。これはディスプレイケーブルにダメージを与えないためです。本体からバッテリーを取り出す際、邪魔にならないようディスプレイを片手で固定できる方は、ディスプレイの取り出しをスキップしてバッテリーの取り出し手順から作業を始めてください。バッテリーの最適化のために、新しく装着したバッテリーを10%まで消費してから一気に100%まで充電してください。

ビデオの概要

ディスプレイガラスにひび割れがある場合、修理作業中の怪我を防ぐため、ガラス表面にテープを貼って破損箇所が広がらないようにします。 iPhoneの画面上に透明テープを貼り、表面全体を覆います。 これはガラスの破片を固定し、ディスプレイをこじ開けたり、引き上げた際に構造を保つことができます。
  • ディスプレイガラスにひび割れがある場合、修理作業中の怪我を防ぐため、ガラス表面にテープを貼って破損箇所が広がらないようにします。

  • iPhoneの画面上に透明テープを貼り、表面全体を覆います。

    • これはガラスの破片を固定し、ディスプレイをこじ開けたり、引き上げた際に構造を保つことができます。

  • 作業中にガラスの破片が目に飛び散るのを防ぐため、保護メガネを着用ください。

コメントを追加する

次の手順に進む前に、iPhoneのバッテリーを25%以下まで消費してください。充電されたリチウムイオンバッテリーはアクシデントで穴が空いてしまうと、引火や爆発の恐れがあります。
  • 次の手順に進む前に、iPhoneのバッテリーを25%以下まで消費してください。充電されたリチウムイオンバッテリーはアクシデントで穴が空いてしまうと、引火や爆発の恐れがあります。

  • 解体作業を始める前にiPhoneの電源を切ってください。

  • Lightningコネクター両側の 3.8 mmペンタロープネジを2本取り外します。

to keep screws in order, buy some double sided tape and then affix the tape in small pieces to a sheet of paper. As you take the screws out, you can affix them to the tape (which is on the paper) and then write a description of what they are and where they go. quick, cheap and easy.

V. Jones - 返信

次の2つの手順ではiPhone 5c本体を安全に開口するために必須の工具であるiSclackの使い方を紹介します。ぜひiPhone 5, 5sや 5cの修理作業でこの工具をご利用ください。iSclackをご利用にならない場合は手順5までスキップしてください。 iSclackのレバーを閉め吸盤カップを開きます。 吸盤カップの間にiPhoneを挟みプラスチックの溝に本体の下部を差し込みます。
  • 次の2つの手順ではiPhone 5c本体を安全に開口するために必須の工具であるiSclackの使い方を紹介します。ぜひiPhone 5, 5sや 5cの修理作業でこの工具をご利用ください。iSclackをご利用にならない場合は手順5までスキップしてください。

  • iSclackのレバーを閉め吸盤カップを開きます。

  • 吸盤カップの間にiPhoneを挟みプラスチックの溝に本体の下部を差し込みます。

    • 上部の吸盤カップはホームボタンより上に接着させてください。

  • iSclackのレバーを開いて吸盤を閉じます。iPhoneの両面、中心部に吸盤カップをしっかりと押し当てます。

I just replaced my iPhone 5C battery today and only used the I fix it repair kit that came with the suction cup. Getting the glass screen out was not too difficult as I used a little bit of upward motion on the suction cup while at the same time prying gently with the flat end of the opening tool at the same time. If you have two people it makes it a little easier as someone can hold the phone. After getting the end open, I was able to go around the perimeter and gently pry up the edges with very little trouble.

V. Jones - 返信

iPhoneを両手でしっかりと持ち、吸盤を引き離すようにiSclackの持ち手を閉めていきます。するとフロントパネルが背面ケースから持ちあがってきます。 iSclackはiPhoneを安全に開口できるようにデザインされていますが、ホームボタンケーブルにダメージを与える場合があります。
  • iPhoneを両手でしっかりと持ち、吸盤を引き離すようにiSclackの持ち手を閉めていきます。するとフロントパネルが背面ケースから持ちあがってきます。

  • iSclackはiPhoneを安全に開口できるようにデザインされていますが、ホームボタンケーブルにダメージを与える場合があります。

  • 2つの吸盤カップを iPhoneから取り外してください

  • 次の3つの手順をスキップして手順8まで進んでください。

コメントを追加する

カップをしっかりとホームボタン上部のスクリーンにしっかりと密着させます。
  • カップをしっかりとホームボタン上部のスクリーンにしっかりと密着させます。

  • カップの吸盤がスクリーンにしっかりと密着していることを確認してください。

very, very difficult to get a tight seal on tape. I removed the tape and still can't get a tight seal.

bromanmoon - 返信

吸盤カップがフロントパネルアセンブリに密着していることを確認してください。 iPhone を片手でしっかりと抑えながら、吸盤カップを少しずつ引き上げて、本体背面ケースからフロントパネルのホームボタン端を引き離していきます。
  • 吸盤カップがフロントパネルアセンブリに密着していることを確認してください。

  • iPhone を片手でしっかりと抑えながら、吸盤カップを少しずつ引き上げて、本体背面ケースからフロントパネルのホームボタン端を引き離していきます。

  • 時間をかけてゆっくりと同じ力加減で作業します。ディスプレイアセンブリは他のデバイスに比べて、特に頑丈に装着されています。

  • 吸盤カップを上に持ち上げながら、プラスチック製の開口ツールで、ゆっくりと背面ケースの端からフロントパネルアセンブリを引き離します。

  • フロントパネルアセンブリを背面ケースに留めているクリップが幾つか付けられています。フロントパネルアセンブリを外すには、吸盤カップとプラスチック開封ツール両方を使う必要があります。

Cover a badly cracked screen with a strip of packing tape first to get a better seal for your suction cup. If it's a super crappy suction cup, moistening it a bit will help as well.

Dan - 返信

Great Idea! I have been doing this for awhile and have never thought to share!

duston -

The pry point in this photo is spot on. Just be gentle and maybe come in at a little steeper angle.

V. Jones - 返信

吸盤カップの持ち手を引っ張り、吸盤カップの吸引シールを弱めます。
  • 吸盤カップの持ち手を引っ張り、吸盤カップの吸引シールを弱めます。

  • ディスプレイアセンブリから吸盤カップを取り外します。

コメントを追加する

フロントパネルのホームボタン端を持ち上げて開き、本体上部付近のコネクターにアクセスします。 ディスプレイを約90度の角度で開き、作業中邪魔にならないよう、後ろに衝立を設置して固定します。
  • フロントパネルのホームボタン端を持ち上げて開き、本体上部付近のコネクターにアクセスします。

  • ディスプレイを約90度の角度で開き、作業中邪魔にならないよう、後ろに衝立を設置して固定します。

    • 緊急の際は、衝立として未開封の飲料缶をご利用できます。

  • 作業中、ディスプレイをしっかりと固定するためにゴムで留めてください。ディスプレイケーブルに余剰な力が加わるのを防いでくれます。

コメントを追加する

ロジックボードに留められたメタル製のバッテリコネクターのブラケットから1.6 mm #000プラスネジを2本外します。
  • ロジックボードに留められたメタル製のバッテリコネクターのブラケットから1.6 mm #000プラスネジを2本外します。

These screws are very tiny and hard to manipulate. The screwdriver is magnetic; which is great to take them out, but makes it hard to put the screws back in, as the screwdriver pulls them from the hole. I solved this problem by using the pointed end of the spudger to put a tiny drop of Elmer's glue in the hole and then insert the screw. You can do this before putting the bracket in place if you want. Then the screw wont pull out by the magnetic driver and make lining up and fastening the screws much easier; at least for me!

Joe Shirghio - 返信

I found that you don't need to disconnect the battery... why bother doing more fiddling with annoyingly tiny screws and obstinate cable connectors when you don't actually have to? Especially when you could only end up causing more damage. As a matter of fact, the original iFixit video didn't bother to disconnect the battery either, but they've since updated the video to include battery disconnection, I guess as a "belt and braces" approach in case the repair-hero forgets to power down the phone first?

Michael Allen - 返信

Disconnecting the battery is a safety precaution, and yes it's worth doing. Even with the phone powered off, there is some danger of blowing the backlight filter fuse if you disconnect the display while the battery is connected. At that point you're no longer looking at a simple DIY repair. Even though it's possible to skip this step and still come out okay, my advice is not to risk it.

Jeff Suovanen -

iPhoneからバッテリーコネクターのブラケットを取り出します。
  • iPhoneからバッテリーコネクターのブラケットを取り出します。

コメントを追加する

スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボードからバッテリコネクターを外します。
  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボードからバッテリコネクターを外します。

Why do we need to disconnect the battery?

Maria Raesch - 返信

Sorry, I missed the comments on step 9 that detail the procedure.

Maria Raesch - 返信

Instead of using a spudger, you can use your fingernails too. This is quicker and enables you to feel if you're not accidentally putting on too much pressure or lifting the connector instead of the cable.

Jona Wolff - 返信

Accidentally pulling out the logic board socket is no idle warning - exactly what I did without much effort. I think this shouldn’t be described as ‘prying’ up because it implies needing to use force - but these things actually pop off quite easily with a nudge, which you discover at later steps.

Peter Hill - 返信

ロジックボードに留められたフロントパネルアセンブリケーブルブラケットから、次の#000 プラスネジを外します。
  • ロジックボードに留められたフロントパネルアセンブリケーブルブラケットから、次の#000 プラスネジを外します。

    • 1.3 mmネジー2本

    • 1.7 mmネジー1本

    • 3.25 mm ネジー1本

  • 再組み立ての際には上記手順にあるネジの位置を十分に確認してください。謝って右側下のネジ穴に3.25 mmのネジや1.7 mm ネジのどちらかを装着すると、デバイスが正しく機能せず、ロジックボードに致命的なダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。

  • ネジを固く締めすぎないようにご注意ください。簡単にネジが留まらない場合は、誤ったサイズのネジを装着している可能性があります。無理に留めないでください。

In step 9: I think you are talking about the 3,25 and 1,7mm one not the 1,3 and the 1,7mm?

Siegbert Waldner - 返信

DO NOT Remove the battery, there is no need to and can cause unnecessary damage! There's a tutorial on YouTube that does it without!

Alister Malcolm - 返信

I didn't need to remove the front panel to replace the lightning connector. Just prop it up like in Step 8, then skip steps 12-16.

jacobstevens - 返信

I always put my screws in a magnet tray and place the screws in the exact position they were taken out. The magnet tray holds the screws tight in the position I put them in. No chasing on the floor looking for small screws that you brushed off the table.

Fredrick Apel - 返信

I always take a picture of the phone, print it out, then use scotch tape to tape the screws onto the picture in the location where they go. You don't lose the screws and you always know where they go for re-assembly

K Jansen - 返信

good tip! but instead of taking & printing a picture of your own phone, you probably could just print the color coded pic from this step (assuming everything on your phone is exactly the same).

travismlive -

When reassembling, the screw holder that the screws screw into came off the board. Is there a way to superglue that back in?

Chandler Perez - 返信

did NOT remove the front entirely. its not necessary to do this to remove the battery. these are only precautionary steps in case your clumsy or you feel you might not be able to manage it without. as always, be cautious.

matt - 返信

ロジックボードからフロントパネルアセンブリのケーブルブラケットを取り出します。
  • ロジックボードからフロントパネルアセンブリのケーブルブラケットを取り出します。

コメントを追加する

プラスチック開口ツールを使って、正面カメラとセンサーケーブルコネクターの接続を外します。 コネクターのみに接触してください。ロジックボードのソケットには触れないでください。
  • プラスチック開口ツールを使って、正面カメラとセンサーケーブルコネクターの接続を外します。

  • コネクターのみに接触してください。ロジックボードのソケットには触れないでください。

コメントを追加する

フロントパネルを手で固定しながら、LCDケーブルコネクターを外します。 LCDとデジタイザーコネクターは同じケーブルアセンブリに繋がっています。そのため、LCDコネクターの接続を外すと双方のコネクターが外れてしまいます。ディスプレイを取り出す前に、2つのケーブルの接続が完全に切ってあるか確認してください。 デバイスを再組み立てする際に、LCDケーブルがコネクターから外れてしまうことがあります。これは電話の電源を入れた時、黒い画面に白い線が入る状態の原因となります。この症状が現れる場合は単純にケーブルをコネクターに再接続をして、電話を再起動してください。電話の再起動はバッテリーを一度外して、再度取り付けます。
  • フロントパネルを手で固定しながら、LCDケーブルコネクターを外します。

    • LCDとデジタイザーコネクターは同じケーブルアセンブリに繋がっています。そのため、LCDコネクターの接続を外すと双方のコネクターが外れてしまいます。ディスプレイを取り出す前に、2つのケーブルの接続が完全に切ってあるか確認してください。

  • デバイスを再組み立てする際に、LCDケーブルがコネクターから外れてしまうことがあります。これは電話の電源を入れた時、黒い画面に白い線が入る状態の原因となります。この症状が現れる場合は単純にケーブルをコネクターに再接続をして、電話を再起動してください。電話の再起動はバッテリーを一度外して、再度取り付けます。

I replaced the broken front panel of the iPhone 5c and got the "famous white stripes" on the new screen. Reading about all kind of problems that the lcd/digitizer cable contacts may cause, I compared the cable connectors of the original Apple and the replacement part I bought online with a 35x magnifying glass. The quality difference was visible: The white description on the original part on the cable next to the connector is: 821-1784-A, while the inferior replacement part is: 821-1784-02. Check out the two numbers online and insist getting the "A" to avoid future troubles !!!

Harold Wallner - 返信

This person above is not knowledgeable. That number is a camera proxy part number, not the lcd or digitizer number. It changes with production date, both for original and aftermarket ones. A, B, D, 02, 04, 08 etc. Can all be either or.

vince -

Apple uses numerical revisions (-02) for pre-production parts, and alpha revisions (-A) for production revisions. It looks like you got a preproduction assembly, or a knock-off.

terrymccallum -

There are, in fact, three connectors in this step, not two. The front-facing camera and digitizer connector (Step 11) is really difficult to align when you put it back. Took me about 15 minutes before I succeeded.

Now I have a different problem. Everything works just dandy, EXCEPT:

Towards the bottom of the screen (in portrait) there is a horizontal line that is dead to the touch. For example, on the keyboard, I can use the spacebar, but not C V B N M, etcetera.

Three possibilities in my mind: One, when I dropped it, something else besides the glass and digitizer, etc, was damaged.

Two: I did not replace the cables correctly. This seems unlikely. They all "clicked" into place and stayed there.

Three: The digitizer supplied is faulty.

Comments? Which cable/connector could be causing this -- if it is that?

piet - 返信

Take apart, Clean Connections, Put back together.... If same problem sounds like a fault part...

duston -

When reassembling the iPhone 5c, I used the flat end of the spudger to press on the connectors and maintain them while replacing the front panel on the body of the iPhone.

The third and "deepest" connector no longer slips out of its socket, which it did before holding the whole lot with the spudger.

jimbbo - 返信

If the ESD plate covering the connectors is properly re-attached to the phone, you should not have to do this. The cover holds all the connectors in place just fine.

iBroke -

背面ケースからフロントパネルアセンブリを取り外します。
  • 背面ケースからフロントパネルアセンブリを取り外します。

Very clear and percise.

Jessica Fader - 返信

スパッジャーの先端をバッテリーとヘッドフォンジャックの間に差し込み、バッテリー接着タブを開きます。 スパッジャーの先端をバッテリーとヘッドフォンジャックの間に差し込み、バッテリー接着タブを開きます。 スパッジャーの先端をバッテリーとヘッドフォンジャックの間に差し込み、バッテリー接着タブを開きます。
  • スパッジャーの先端をバッテリーとヘッドフォンジャックの間に差し込み、バッテリー接着タブを開きます。

I didn't need to remove the battery to replace the lightning connector assembly. Skip past steps 17 through 25.

jacobstevens - 返信

I agree, waste of time and you risk damaging the battery if the adhesive is too strong.

GotMac -

the adhesive tab is actually folded back upon itself. Gentle agitation on what appears to be the edge will in fact show you that it is flexible and can be "unfolded". When unfolded, it will allow you to see what they are talking about. GENTLE is the operative word !

V. Jones - 返信

I also didn't need to remove the battery to replace the lightening cable. I'd say skip it unless you have big fingers, because it is a tight space.

Benjamin Browning - 返信

電話本体からバッテリー接着タブを取り出します。
  • 電話本体からバッテリー接着タブを取り出します。

It is a must to use a little heat. In my instance I used some hand warmers. My first attempt was with some older ones that didn’t get too hot. I then pulled out some others and using a little bit of time and several hand warmers it seemed to soften the grip of the tape underneath the battery. Using a hair dryer might have been my next step had my hand warmer trick not worked. USE HEAT!!!! It is your friend.

V. Jones - 返信

2本の白い接着ストリップの間に装着されている黒色のバッテリー接着タブを二つに切ります。 2本の白い接着ストリップの間に装着されている黒色のバッテリー接着タブを二つに切ります。
  • 2本の白い接着ストリップの間に装着されている黒色のバッテリー接着タブを二つに切ります。

Pulling upwards with a gentle tug on the now exposed black end of the adhesive tab will reveal a white film (look at the end of the tweezers). This white/black interface will have a small cutout already in the middle. Cut the adhesive tab using this as a midpoint guide.

V. Jones - 返信

Use heat beforehand to soften the grip of the sticky double sided tape that is used to keep the battery in place. USING HEAT IS A PREREQUISITE if you want this to go smoother. I also ended up using a little dental floss the come from underneath and then used it to saw back and forth to loosen the grip of the tape. Just take your time and use the magic of heat to loosen the grip.

V. Jones - 返信

作業中、ストリップを水平にシワが入らないように保ってください。シワが入ったストリップは付着して、引っ張るかわりに裂けてしまいます。 ゆっくりとバッテリーからバッテリーの接着ストリップをiPhoneの下側に向けて引っ張ります。
  • 作業中、ストリップを水平にシワが入らないように保ってください。シワが入ったストリップは付着して、引っ張るかわりに裂けてしまいます。

  • ゆっくりとバッテリーからバッテリーの接着ストリップをiPhoneの下側に向けて引っ張ります。

  • バッテリーと背面ケースの間からストリップが出てくるまで、均一の力で継続的に引き抜きます。一番良い角度はストリップを60度以下で引っぱることです。

  • ストリップを電話本体の他のコンポーネントに向けて引っ張らないようにご注意ください。接着ストリップに穴があいてしまい、裂けてしまう原因となります。

  • ストリップは本来の長さから何倍にも伸びます。必要に応じて、ストリップをバッテリーの近くまで持ち替えて完全に外れるまで続けて引っ張ります。

I pulled the first tab straight up and it snapped. I tried to see if I could pry the battery out but couldn't without bending the battery. So I left the battery in and was able to complete this without removing it. However, I'm pretty sure I damaged the battery. Waiting on the replacement battery now to confirm. Long story short, leave the battery in for this fix!

lew - 返信

When I tried to remove the adhesive, it snapped on both sides. Even though I was careful not to bend or twist. But now the battery is still stuck in place. What do I do now?

lynn - 返信

Keep reading; there are some additional steps you can take toward the end of the guide. The battery is much easier to remove if you keep the pull tabs intact, but they can be tricky.

Jeff Suovanen -

My tabs broke. I had to pry the battery out. Took my time and it came out okay. The adhesive residue was a pain to remove though.

mwtort - 返信

My tabs broke as well, quite close to the battery's lower corners. Then I discovered a reasonably hot surface to place the phone - my quite old Apple Airport Extreme. I warmed the phone for a couple of 3 minute sessions, that didn't loosen the glue but made it more malleable. Then proceeded to carefully pull the tab on the logic board's side with tweezers, which was a success. After that I could get an old ID card under the battery and push the other tab into itself. That done, the glue basically gave out and the battery was free.

So my advice would be to use some sort of heat before pulling on the tabs, which will make them a bit easier to work with. It does take some time but result counts, right?

jukkaharkonen - 返信

This is the most awful thing: removing the battery. The adhesive holds sooo strong. I ripped it off very soon. So i heated the back of the iPhone with a hair dryer up and opened the battery with scissors. Then i could draw the battery off.

5c is much better to repair then my last repaired iPhone. A 3gs :-)

Tanx ifixit. You are the best.

Achim Graether - 返信

I don't thnk we need Steps 9 to 12 to remove the battery

Leave the display attached is you only need to replace the battery !!!

lmusolino -

@lmusolino of course you can skip those steps (9-12) but it's risky for those digitizer to be damaged if you are careless while removing the battery.

John Mark Booc -

This was more tricky than I thought. I bent the original battery quite hard to get it of, while blowing the phone with a hair dryer. I fixed two 5c's for my kids and I ordered one kit and a extra battery. I didn't understand when ordering that just one pair of adhesive strips came along, with the kit. I partial them using one strip each on the phones. Hope that it will work. Everything seems to work with the phones.

Peter Rousu - 返信

Don't pull too hard or it will break just gently apply presaure

Shsjsjakkaka - 返信

If u do break the tabs the lift the top end of th battery and get them from that end

Shsjsjakkaka - 返信

the adhesive is very strong and does NOT pull free. you MUST use heat (iopener) or similar to apply heat to it. go slow and when (not if) the adhesive snaps you will have to find a way to shove a spudger or an old credit card under the battery. after that, just rub your finger over the adhesive firmly and “roll” it out. this stuff is really nasty.

matt - 返信

Whilst pulling the adhesive strips from beneath the battery, I was making sure to not pull too fast and also to keep in flat, not twisted, and it still snapped on both sides way before I even got half way… I haven’t had my battery replaced at all so the adhesive should be authentic Apple factory standards. Be SUPER careful at this stage people, I’m going to try and remove the battery with the adhesive in place :S

Steve Hind - 返信

続けて2番目の接着ストリップを取り出します。 続けて2番目の接着ストリップを取り出します。
  • 続けて2番目の接着ストリップを取り出します。

I was able to remove the first strip as the guide discusses in Step#20. When I attempted to peel the second strip, as in Step #21 above, it broke. This left the adhesive strip on half of the battery and I was unable to grip anything. I got some dental floss and threaded it underneath the already free side. I then used a slight back and forth motion to loosen the grip of the other half of the strip enough that I could "GENTLY" pry the free side of the battery up. Taking extreme care not to pry against any components of the phone. I then gently pried the battery up a little at a time along with using a sawing motion on the dental floss to eventually free the battery from the underlying adhesive strip. Takes patience and persistence. GENTLY being the operative word.

V. Jones - 返信

At this step, be VERY careful with the two gold-colored prongs (pins) right next to the lightening cable port. If you crush/bend/collapse these pins, they won’t make contact with the screen side when re-assemble the phone, making your Home button non-functional.

If accidentally collapsed the pin because you pushed on it, be VERY careful bending it back. You have one shot at getting this right. Over-bending leads to the pins breaking off, and then you’re really f’ed. That’s what happened to me, and I had to solder some tin onto the base to build-up to the right height; very tedious.

https://s.real.com/jnjcW3 This shows photo of what I’m talking about.

Jack Chang - 返信

iPhoneからバッテリーを取り出します。
  • iPhoneからバッテリーを取り出します。

  • 接着ストリップの一方あるいは両方が裂けてしまい、ピンセットを使ってストリップを取り出すことができない場合、電話本体からバッテリーをこじ開けて取り出さないでください。バッテリーを安全に取り出すために次の手順に進んでください。

Use heat before attempting to remove adhesive strips. They will break. Heat helps tp loosen the grip and is your friend. Dental floss can also be a good helper to saw back and forth once you get it under one corner of the battery. Go slow and take your time. USE HEAT BEFOREHAND. I FOUNF THAT IT TOOK A GOOD 3-5 minutes to get everything hot enough to loosen the grip of the tape.

V. Jones - 返信

当社の iOpenerの利用方法をご覧になり、背面ケースにバッテリーが付けれらている接着剤を安全に温めます。
  • 当社の iOpenerの利用方法をご覧になり、背面ケースにバッテリーが付けれらている接着剤を安全に温めます。

  • iOpenerバッグを取り扱う際は、大変熱くなるためお気をつけください。

  • 万が一、バッテリーが背面ケースに入ったままの状態で接着ストリップが切れてしまった場合は、iOpener やヘアードライアーを準備してバッテリー裏側に直接当てて温めます

  • iOpenerバッテリーを取り出す前に約90秒間、iPhoneの上にこのバッグを寝かしてください。

you can substitute a 'bed buddy' or similar microwave activated heating pack here for the iOpener. i eventually wound up working on-top-of the heading pad as at softened the adhesive. take your time and let the heat work

Pritchett Harris - 返信

A hairdryer works too. Aim it at the same spot on the back of the phone, don't let it get too hot though.

Dan Harris - 返信

Instead of using the iOpener, I opted for my “patented” “Rice in a sock” and heated the sock for 1 minute, which worked perfectly. I laid the heated sock flat and used it as a mini work bench while removing the adhesive strip! My wife uses this for when she has head aches, which caused “me to not have a headache”, when peeling back the adhesive strips!

iScott - 返信

ロジックボード側のバッテリー下にプラスチックカードの端を丁寧に差し込んでいきます。 ロジックボード側に向けてバッテリーを押し出さないでください。デバイスにダメージを与えてしまいます。
  • ロジックボード側のバッテリー下にプラスチックカードの端を丁寧に差し込んでいきます。

    • ロジックボード側に向けてバッテリーを押し出さないでください。デバイスにダメージを与えてしまいます。

    • バッテリーの上部端付近にカードを差し込まないでください。コンポーネント上部のリボンケーブルにダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。

  • バッテリーの上部から下部に向かってプラスチックカードをスライドし、背面ケースの端に向かって押し込みます。

  • 必要であれば、バッテリーのケース側でも同じ作業を繰り返してください。

A picture of the position of the upper ribbon cable would be useful here. I have falsely thought that you only have to be careful around the top edge of the battery that is near the logic board, and have managed to cut the upper component cable with the plastic card.. :(

Daniel Boros - 返信

The third bullet of this step has a link to two photos of the cable.

Jeff Suovanen -

If you’ve pried the battery out near the bottom, you might want to reseat the speaker assembly after putting the new battery back in - it’s very easy to knock the speaker and lightning connectors loose when getting the battery out this way.

Tom Reeve - 返信

I destroyed the ribbon cable that runs down the side of the case toward the headphone jack (not mentioned in the instructions!) while trying to wedge the battery out with a credit card. Am I SOL or is there a fix?

Peter Hill - 返信

Sounds like you hit the upper component cable mentioned in red in the instructions. “Avoid prying near the top edge of the battery, or you may damage the upper component ribbon cable.” You’ll likely need to replace the cable, or use on-screen accessibility button replacements. If you’d like to post photos to our Answers Forum, you may get more specific help for your situation. Best of luck!

Sam Lionheart -

iPhoneからバッテリーを持ち上げて取り出します。
  • iPhoneからバッテリーを持ち上げて取り出します。

  • バッテリーは簡単に取り出せるはずです。接着剤がバッテリーに残っている場合は、iOpener を使って再度温めてから作業を再開してください。

  • バッテリーを再装着する際は、この手順を参照して、バッテリーの接着ストリップの交換を行ってください。

  • 再装着後はハードリセットを行ってください。この作業は幾つかの問題を防ぎ、トラブルシューティングを簡単にしてくれます。

コメントを追加する

まとめ

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのガイドを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。バッテリーの最適化のために、新しく装着したバッテリーを10%まで消費してから一気に100%充電してください。

378 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:

86%

Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています! 貢献してみませんか?
翻訳を始める ›

Walter Galan

553,085 ポイント

2,839のガイドは作成済み

I am disappointed with the guide - not up to iFixit's usual standards. I got the iPhone open and the battery out just fine, but there were *three* missing hints that would have cut a half-hour from my re-assembly:

1) The connector cover has three short screws and one long one. The video doesn't show which is the long one, so I had to farble around to get the screws back. (The long one is the top-right one, near the hinge on the right side of the phone)

2) There are no hints on the video or in the box about putting the adhesive strips back in. I was trying to get the tab to fold over, but got all wrapped up in the strips. It took a lot of time to fix it, and I still don't know if it's important to fold the tab over or not.

3) There is no information about whether to retain the clear cellophane wrapper that comes on the battery. I took it off - hope that's right.

That said, all the tools were included in the kit, they work as advertised. And the phone's back together, and we'll see how it works...

richbhanover - 返信

In reference to your #1 point, this is very good example of why a SCREW-MAT or iCracked Part Chart come in very handy!

Especially in repairs like the 5s ... some screws look the same, but are .01" different ... enough to scratch/break the trace underneath on the logic board .... adding another $100 (and a week travel time by mail, if you cannot do the repair yourself), to your repair - to have it micro-soldered.

With Screw-Mats or iCracked Part Charts, every screw is placed on it's corresponding marker, so you know exactly which screw is which.

If you are in a pinch, and do not have a Screw Mat, you can draw little diagrams on a piece of paper or a dry erase surface, and mark out where each and every screw goes, as sometimes there is that .01" difference in screw sizes, that can really screw up (no pun intended) your repair.

Cheers!

iBroke -

They did mention the screw size in the guide here by color coding the MM. I agree with point two, but that's nitpicking. Lastly (the reason I commented), you did it right. The plastic should be removed so it is just like the orig battery, if you would leave the cellophane on, the adhesive would be stuck to it instead of the battery and making for a poorly secured battery.

Overall, the parts and kit were good, but this phone is not my favorite iPhone to work on. Getting that old battery out was extremely annoying compared to the 4, 4s, 5, and 5s that I've all done in the past.

On a side note, this is the first ifixit branded battery I've received and I've ordered a lot of parts from them over the years. They used to source what looked line 100% orig batteries. I avoid non original batteries like the plague, I don't care if it's a phone, laptop, or even my APC UPS devices. Ifixit has earned my trust over the years with all the parts and tools so I went ahead and installed it, I'm sure it's good.

trssho91 - 返信

okay so i flowed every step the right way and everything... but now my phones not turning on at all or charging or anything... im high !#^&@@ right... i need this thing for work and to make sure my kids are okay....

DaeTroy - 返信

Hi,

I have a problem with the battery ever since I installed the battery in my iPhone 5c, the volume buttons are jammed. I think I moved the battery too close to the button and it may have jammed it, I want to take the battery out and place it back, but it is too sticky and is stuck, what should I do?

Kingsley Choi - 返信

Hello, is there any chance I have damaged the battery when removed? I folded it when removed for replacement of the rear box. After that the device does not turn on.

leocardosoex - 返信

The pictures on removing the battery adhesive strips are not very accurate, i have (sadly only later) found pictures on another guide that show how the adhesive strips need to be pulled past the SIDES of the battery. my careful attempt to follow your instructions here resulted in ripping both adhesives. so i did the plastic card thing which you suggest in step 24, AND THERE IS DEFINITELY A CAUTION NOTICE MISSING!! i had no idea that under the top of the battery was the upper component flex cable, which i then irreperably damaged with the card. now i had to order that one too and have to removely almost the whole phone from its casing to replace that cable... PLEASE put a caution notice in at step 24 to warn other users not to go too high up from the side of the battery in order to not damage the upper component cable. thanks

David - 返信

In steps 20-21, could you add another image to illustrate what you say about removing the two adhesive strips...how far to guide the strips around the corner and up the side of the battery?

Deborah Marks - 返信

My home button no longer works after following this guide, any help is appreciated

Chris - 返信

And the phone doesn't seem to be charging but says it is

Chris -

I found the same problem, the home button stopped to work. The problem is related to the connectors of the home button, there are two on the left side of the button behind the touch screen and two on the base of the iPhone. When you close the iPhone, after the replacement of the battery, the connector is so delicate that it broken! Maybe is very low quality (!) (I'm very disappointed with Apple!).

Since I don't find the name of this flex cable (it's not the home button but the opposite one where you plug it) to buy it, I found a workaround that consists in to weld 2 wires in order to close the circuit when pressing the home button. Very bad solution but it works!!!

Marco -

My home button also stopped working. I opened the phone back up and noticed that one of the copper wires that Marco is alluding to was bent lower than the other. I took the spudger under the lower wire and teased it back up to match the other wire, and the home button now works again.

Kristen Rankin -

I have the same problem as Chris here: my iPhone 5c does not charge, nor does the home button work. Any constructive solutions or tips to try out? I followed instructions to the letter. The phone turns out and other functions seem to be working just fine.

Cheers!

-Sydney

Antti T - 返信

help, one side of adhesive broke, remains stuck. I will try heating with a therapeutic heat-or-cool-bag. Not practical to send off for i-opener.

John Lozier - 返信

A hair dryer will also work. You just need to get the adhesive good and hot to help soften it up. Flip the phone over and heat it from the back.

Jeff Suovanen -

Only problem I had was with my own clumsiness. Pinched the big screw too hard and it bounced off my chest and dropped to the floor. The adhesive strips were a pain, but after opening up my iPad, I knew what I was in for.

jhurter - 返信

Mr. Galan... Well done... the process for Battery Replacement of the iPhone 5c were straightforward and well documented. I was able to complete the replacement without issue. Much appreciated.

plisi - 返信

if I pierced my OEM battery (while still connected) while replacing it for a new aftermarket one cause a short circuit and cause the phone to be trash it wont turn on now with the new battery installed.

Isaac - 返信

Now it turned on but has a solid white screen

Isaac -

I was able to succeed in installing my battery following the guide. I have place a few comments on my experience in the steps above. Most notably, my second piece of adhesive strip broke and I had to revert to using some dental floss in order to get my battery removed. Gentle persuasion and persistence is the key... Have to be gentle when attempting to pry the battery up and not use the edge of the remaining components as leverage points. I would definitely rate this as moderate. Attempting to push the connectors back on during the reassembly steps was daunting. Everything is so small and you have to rely more on feel than site. Be methodical and gently push the connectors down. If they don't click or snap then you are not aligned correctly and you simply need to try again.

V. Jones - 返信

Seems like success. I bought the kit but I broke one of the battery strips, did not have the iopener so I used a container with hot water inside to warm instead of that. Still had to lose a lot of time with the removal of the battery. Secondly, I assembled the display wrongly two times before succeeding - very small structures and one of them was constantly badly connected. Had to reset the device two times before everything was into place. All the buttons work. The battery charges and I have calibrated it. This was the first time I ever fixed anything. Very neat packaging, with extra screws and a pack of gummy bears lol.

mariana.m93 - 返信

Followed this guide to replace battery due to water damage on my iPhone 5C. Both adhesive strips broke and I used heat pad to first heat up phone from backside and used a plastic card to remove battery. You need to be very careful while removing battery as any extra pressure will damage other parts. The difficult part was to put back the screws of connectors bracket. Screws are so tiny that aligning them just using screw driver is tough. Use tweezers to correctly place the screw and tighten using screw driver. All functions seem to be working fine. Thanks for well documented instructions.

HARISH ACHAPPA - 返信

I watched the video and then followed the guide step by step and thankfully I made it from beginning to end with virtually no mishaps. The worst part by far is the adhesive strips because the first side broke when nearly complete but the second half broke right at the top. I ended up having to use a "bed buddy" heating sock (all I had in a pinch since I didn't have your heat removal kit) and I cut down a piece of flexible cheap cutting mat that can be found at a place like IKEA to make my removal tool. With care and patience it worked. Without the instructions though I would have been totally stuck and had to take it to some kiosk repair shop to get it fixed for the $60 I was trying to save. Last Apple phone I ever buy, but not the last time I utilize ifixit.com. Thanks.

Jared Jester - 返信

One more thing...I appreciate that you utilize all paper packaging with your kits instead of a paper box with plastic tray.

Jared Jester - 返信

The battery adhesive strips included in the replacement kit were a real pain to install. One side of the strips would not come loose from the plastic protective cover and tore into pieces. I used some 3M Blu-Tac spread thinly under the battery. This seems to work well and should make the battery replacement easier in the future

Robert Leyva - 返信

Everything seems to be working after battery replacement. I hope it speeds things up, as Apple has promised. It took me almost 2 hours to replace due to fumbling with the teeny-tiny screws, even with tweezers. The screwdriver in the accompanying kit became magnetized and kept pulling the screws out of the hole before I could screw it down!

Laura Jordan - 返信

sugestion for everyone that seems to have trouble with those “teeny- tiny” screws. get a magnifying, lighted jewelers headset. this will give you a better view of everything. I have NO prob with the size of any of these parts because of that. it should be a standard part of your repair arsenal if you want to do it right without straining your eyes and/or fumbling.

matt - 返信

The adhesive tabs broke the moment I touched them - the woman in the video must live in an alternate, better universe. The alternative of using a credit card definitely won’t work on its own as described - it’s thicker than the gap between the logic board and the battery. I fashioned a thinner piece from an old package and between that the leverage of a credit card a bit later, which still broke in two pieces, I got the battery out, but destroyed the ribbon cable running down the side of the phone. So looks like I’m off to the apple store after all.

Peter Hill - 返信

I followed this whole guide, and now I can’t even turn my phone on. It took way longer, and was way more difficult than I expected. I definitely damaged the old battery taking it out, and now my phone won’t even turn on or charge. Guess I’m going to the Apple store to see if they can fix it. So much for saving money, and doing it myself.

Amy Wasserman - 返信

J’ai remplacé la batterie hier, à l’aide du kit de montage, et ça s’est fait facilement.

Une des bandes de fixation de la batterie s’est rompue, j’ai du chauffer l’arrière du téléphone avec un sèche cheveux, grâce aux commentaires, je n’ai pas endommagé la nappe qui passe juste dessous sur le haut de la batterie. J’ai ensuite positionné les bandes adhésives logiquement par rapport au démontage.

J’avais mal reconnecté une des nappes de l’écran, j’ai du le redémonter, mais en dehors de ça, avec l’aide des photos et de la vidéo, il n’y a aucune raison de ne pas se lancer.

j’ai juste pensé à une chose: attention de ne pas diriger le flux d’air chaud vers les vis démontées, car une fois envolées, pour les retrouver ça doit être coton. En conclusion, en restant concentré, en prenant son temps, il n’y a aucune raison que ça se passe mal.

Depuis, le téléphone a retrouvé sa capacité de charge, en ayant respecté la règle de le laisser se décharger en dessous de 10%, puis le recharger à bloc.

Merci IFixit donc :)

Auriac Pierre - 返信

Whew; experienced with Mac repair, but this was my first iPhone. The stupid adhesive tabs suck, but a few minutes with a heat gun fixed that. Managed to have one of the insanely small screws pop out of the tweezer and land in the rug at my feet; after a few minutes trying to spot it, I slapped my forehead and grabbed a couple of hefty magnets from my fridge and waved my hands over the area; I didn’t even notice when the screw was picked up, but there it was on the magnet when I was done. The last sticking point was that %#*@ multi-touch lcd cable kept popping up; angling the back forward while holding the cable connector down until the two top screws to the shield were back in helped; as it was, it took five tries (thus the bobbled screw, above). Getting those teensy tiny screws back in was the harder part of this. Calibrating battery now! Thanks again, iFixIt!

Yohannon Hadden - 返信

Generally a great guide. The tip about the LCD connector popping off during reassembly is well worth noting!

Take care when opening the phone that the top edge of the screen doesn’t foul the vibrate unit in the top left corner; I nearly sheared this off.

Might be nice to add a final step about seating the new adhesive strips before installing the new battery.

Matt Padden - 返信

I’m pleased with the guide and kit. Not considered a “techie”, I was anxious about trying a Apple 5C battery replacement, but I’m glad I did. No problems encountered except removing the adhesive strip on the old battery and I was able to remedy that with the additional instructions for what appears to be a common disassembly problem. The phone powered on, I’m draining the battery before recharging, and then I am hoping all was reconnected correctly and I’m good to go!

Curtis Potter - 返信

コメントを追加する

統計データを表示:

過去 24時間: 87

過去 7 日: 643

過去 30 日: 2,949

今までの合計 271,317