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はじめに

How to remove and replace Microsoft Surface Pro 4 Battery.

  1. Before you begin, discharge the Surface Pro's battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally damaged during the repair.
    • Before you begin, discharge the Surface Pro's battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally damaged during the repair.

    • Make sure the device is turned off before you start working on it.

    • If your display is cracked, cover it with strips of packing tape to contain any glass shards and prevent injury.

  2. The display is strongly glued to the frame of the device.
    • The display is strongly glued to the frame of the device.

    • To remove the display, first soften the adhesive by applying heat. You can use a heat pad, heat gun, or iOpener. In a pinch, a hair dryer can also work.

    • Be careful when using a heat gun, as too much heat can permanently damage the display.

    • Steadily and evenly heat the perimeter of the display until it's too hot to touch, and try to maintain that temperature for several minutes—but don't overheat it, or you may damage the display.

    Instead of heating the glass directly, apply a light amount of heat to slightly soften the adhesive as you go and use a all metal xacto knife. Heat the knife blade directly and cut through the foam inside like butter. Stop every 3 inches and place some paper or spacer to keep the glass off the foam. Start at the top right or left side where there is an indent. On the bottom and side only need to go in 1/4”, top more like 1/2”.

    Ken Richards - 返信

  3. Use a suction cup or an iSclack to pull up on the glass and create a slight gap between the glass and the metal frame. If your display is badly cracked, a suction cup may not adhere. It may help to first cover the display with a layer of packing tape. Alternatively, you can superglue your suction cup to the display. Insert an opening pick into the gap.
    • Use a suction cup or an iSclack to pull up on the glass and create a slight gap between the glass and the metal frame.

    • If your display is badly cracked, a suction cup may not adhere. It may help to first cover the display with a layer of packing tape. Alternatively, you can superglue your suction cup to the display.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • There are tabs on the upper right side and upper left side where it is easier to get a tool under the display.

    • Slide an opening pick around the sides and bottom of the display to cut the adhesive. Apply more heat as needed.

    • The tape is much thinner on the bottom edge than the other three sides. Do not push the tool in too far or you will damage the screen permanently.

    • Work carefully—the glass is thin and will crack easily if you try to force it.

    • Separate the top edge last. There are antennas on both sides, so be careful not to damage them. If needed, you can use a bit of isopropyl alcohol to help weaken the adhesive.

    Do we need to glue the screen back on? How do we do this? What do we use? Thanks for this tutorial. I wonder if it's necessary to completely unplug the screen when replacing just the SSD

    mujzjiggy2k1 - 返信

    They mention separate the top edge last to prevent antenna damage. I tried to be very careful but still ended up damaging 1 of three antennas. The antennas are directly under the glue and aren’t really that fragile. They key is heat. I was trying to be careful that the glue wasn’t hot enough anymore. If the glue is nice and soft it’ll easily separate from the antenna. Too cold and the antenna will stay with the screen…

    tgruetzm - 返信

    WATCH OUT for the digitizer/LCD cables on the bottom left vertical edge, there are two flex cables that connect the digitizer to the LCD screen - make sure you don’t push the prying tool in too far or else you will rip the cables.

    Gorilla - 返信

    Does the replacement screen have the MS logo?

    Harold Guerra - 返信

    The trick is getting this started. I overheated the bottom of my display because the glue did not seem to soften. I found that you could not get any tool into the crack and the glass would not lift away. But in fact you don’t need that much heat. Set your heat gun to 200C (400F). Use a meat thermometer to measure it if needed. Then hold it about 2cm above the edge trying to keep the heat away from the actual screen. Go around and around slowly for a minute or so. Then apply the heat to the top right corner for about 10 seconds, moving the gun the whole time. You can get a guitar pick into the speaker hole and just lift the edge of the screen. Move the pick until you feel the glue is stiff again. Then heat another section of 5 cm for 10 seconds. Move the pick through that section. Shim the parts you have moved through with pieces of thin cardboard. Work slowly around the whole screen and you can remove it without any damage. Good example of this here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=egnSNnM7...

    Christopher Thompson - 返信

    DO NOT use picks or pry tools on the top of the screen to the left and right of the webcam and microphone area to separate the adhesive. This is where the antennas are, and sticking a pick in there WILL destroy them, and you will have to order a new part, $30 on ebay. The antennas are closely integrated into the factory adhesive and extremely easily damaged.

    jbhand - 返信

    Another good place to start is actually the hinges on the left and right sides. In addition to the narrowed adhesive, and the iSclack, a plastic or vinyl hook can be inserted, if you are very careful, into the opening for the hinge to provide some internal leverage, and that may be enough to separate the glue.

    Surface Rescue - 返信

    Ive done about 20 of these so far, my least favorite tablet repair. That being said, unless you are SUPER CAREFUL AND PATIENT, you will shatter the screen. That being said, an iSclack, THIN guitar picks and 91% alcohol in a dropper and lots of heat are the secret. Oh, did I mention patience? I work the bottom left and right corners first, then the bottom center, then the left and right edges, then upper left and right edges next. Lastly, as others have mentioned, the top edge is the hardest as the wifi antennas are the hardest to work as they WILL stick to the adhesive and you will tear them. After opening the bottom edge, I remove the EMI shields from the LCD screen and detach the flex cables first, then heat the upper edge and gently pull the screen towards the bottom as the adhesive loosens, then apply alcohol along that edge and get a guitar pick between the surface of the glass and the adhesive. Once the screen is off, I can roll the adhesive off of the wifi antennas with my finger.

    Gregg Stanley - 返信

  4. Attach a suction cup to the front of the display. Using the suction cup, pull the display and base apart. You may need to hold the base in position with your hands.
    • Attach a suction cup to the front of the display.

    • Using the suction cup, pull the display and base apart. You may need to hold the base in position with your hands.

    • It is usually better to place the suction cup on the left or right side of the screen, rather than in the center. This provides more leverage when removing the screen.

    If you pull the screen away from the chassis as much as is shown in this image, you WILL break either the LCD display cable or the digitizer cable. Be extremely careful when separating the display from the body as these cables are super brittle and thin.

    jbhand - 返信

  5. There are two display cables connecting the body to the display. Disconnect the cable on the right by putting a plastic opening tool under the edge of the connector and prying it up.
    • There are two display cables connecting the body to the display.

    • Disconnect the cable on the right by putting a plastic opening tool under the edge of the connector and prying it up.

    You can disconnect from the lcd rather than the motherboard, each cable has an EMI shield, a metal cover, over the connector, and the shield must be pried off first, then they disconnect easily by just prying up on the connectors

    Glen D - 返信

    Don’t open the screen too much when trying to disconnect the cable, or the cable itself might break, like mine did.

    Adrien Crivelli - 返信

    Mine had metal casings over both connectors (see next step).

    David Hill - 返信

    Be very careful, those cables tear really really easily. They’re like paper. I’d suggest putting that as a warning in red at the top of this guide.

    dustinmajewski82 - 返信

    What's names of that cables?

    Shady - 返信

    Is it possible to connect surfaces pro's screen to the laptop motherboard ?

    What I need to do it

    Shady - 返信

  6. The connection for the strip on the left is covered by a lightweight metal casing.  Pry around the edges of this case with a plastic spudger. Once it is loose, pull it off. Unplug the connection with a plastic opening tool. Unplug the connection with a plastic opening tool.
    • The connection for the strip on the left is covered by a lightweight metal casing. Pry around the edges of this case with a plastic spudger. Once it is loose, pull it off.

    • Unplug the connection with a plastic opening tool.

    • The display should now be free of the body of the Surface Pro. Lift it up and away from the rest of the device.

    • Before installing a new display, check it carefully to see if any parts need to be transferred over from the back of the old display to the new display. In particular, you may need to transfer over the NTrig board in the corner by disconnecting the two attached ribbon cables and using heat and gentle prying to carefully separate the glue securing the board.

    • To replace the adhesive securing the display, carefully remove any old adhesive from both the device and the back of the display. Clean and prep the surface with isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth, swiping the cloth in one direction (not back and forth). Apply a strong double-sided tape, such as 2 mm Tesa 61395.

    I've done many phones and ipads in the past. I did 2 of these in a row. Both screens were broken before hand but I was unable to remove either of them completely without leaving fragments around the frame. This would suggest that replacing the drive on one with a good screen will require a replacement of the screen too. Do not put a tool into the speaker areas as it mushes up the screen and requires you to glue the screens back in. The screens I purchased did not have adhesive with them so you need to apply that before plugging the screen back in. I ran 1 or 2 stips of 2 mm tape depending on the with of the contact area. There was a metal cover over the right hand connector on mine. I found the metal covers easier to remove with a dental pick which I inserted into the small holes on each tab then levered up. You have to transfer a small board over to the new screen which requires heating. Make sure to connect the LCD to that board before sticking it back down. Ken Davison meditlondon.com

    ken - 返信

    What adhesive do you recommend?

    Chris P -

    3M 9448A Double Coated Tissue Tape I just did my 3rd (10 min…I don’t think so) especially if display is shattered, this last screen came with tape strips and the backing looks exactly like this one I posted same color and lettering, its very mushy, rubbery make sure screen is perfectly aligned because once this stuff sticks thats it, no adjustment possible. I used a paper cutter the guillotine type to make the different widths from 1/4” strips.

    Ed tabickman -

    It took 1.5 hours to do the second one.

    ken - 返信

    Highly suggest testing the new screen before gluing it in. Making certain you got all the connections done right.

    dustinmajewski82 - 返信

  7. Both sections of the heat sink are connected to the motherboard via a panel which is covered by a metal casing. Remove the casing by prying around the edges and then lifting the entire piece once it  is loose. Remove the casing by prying around the edges and then lifting the entire piece once it  is loose.
    • Both sections of the heat sink are connected to the motherboard via a panel which is covered by a metal casing.

    • Remove the casing by prying around the edges and then lifting the entire piece once it is loose.

  8. Remove the four 1.5mm Torx T4 screws  holding the main body of the heat sink to the motherboard Remove the four 1.5mm Torx T4 screws  holding the main body of the heat sink to the motherboard Remove the four 1.5mm Torx T4 screws  holding the main body of the heat sink to the motherboard
    • Remove the four 1.5mm Torx T4 screws holding the main body of the heat sink to the motherboard

    I have to use T5 for this one.

    boeonoz - 返信

    can confirm these were T5 for me as well.

    chrisrjones1983 - 返信

  9. Remove the two 1.5mm Torx T3 screw holding the copper plate near the middle of the device. Remove the two 1.5mm Torx T3 screw holding the copper plate near the middle of the device.
    • Remove the two 1.5mm Torx T3 screw holding the copper plate near the middle of the device.

    There is another screw immediately east of where the heatsink meets the copper plate that needs to be removed as well

    Jason Stewart - 返信

  10. Remove the 1.5mm Torx T4 screw holding the heat sink tubing to the frame of the device. Remove the 3.0mm Torx T4 screw.
    • Remove the 1.5mm Torx T4 screw holding the heat sink tubing to the frame of the device.

    • Remove the 3.0mm Torx T4 screw.

    These screws were in a different area on my Surface, Pro 4 bought at release. The fan was visible and attached to the heat sink. Remove the two torx screws on the fan housing. No need to remove the Philips head screws that secure the fan.

    mike_mcquillan - 返信

    My Surface Pro 4 has a fan here. Remove the screws around the fan and the whole heatsink including the fan can now be lifted off. DO NOT try and remove the heatsink from the fan as it is glued on.

    Andy - 返信

    Sorry I’m super brand new to the game. I don’t know the difference between 1.5mm Torx T4 and 3.0mm Torx T4. I look under tools I need to buy, and the tool kits only say Torx T4 or T5, without the milimeters dimensions.

    MInh Le Nguyen - 返信

    Je fais écho au commentaire de vennic, les longueurs indiqués en mm sont les longueurs des vis et n’impactent pas les tournevis à utiliser. Bien ranger les vis par longueur permets de mettre les bonnes vis aux bons endroits lors du remontage de l’appareil.

    Cajuteq -

    MInh Le Nguyen, the mm size refers to the length of the screws, not the size of the bit driver

    vennic - 返信

    Don’t forget to unplug the fan (if present) before yanking on the heat sink! It’s just a small grey clasp that needs to be lifted up.

    vennic - 返信

    The fan connector on mine was held in place by a white clamp on the side closest to the middle of the chassis. The long edge toward the middle flips up to vertical. That frees up the fan connector. Likewise for the black “wire” connector right beside it.

    David Hill - 返信

  11. You can now remove entire heat sink by lifting it out with your hands. Be sure to replace the thermal paste when installing the heat sink. Be sure to replace the thermal paste when installing the heat sink.
    • You can now remove entire heat sink by lifting it out with your hands.

    • Be sure to replace the thermal paste when installing the heat sink.

  12. Disconnect black wire from motherboard.
    • Disconnect black wire from motherboard.

    On mine, the black wire plugs into a connector with a locking mechanism controlled by a white strip on the side closest to the middle of the chasis. Flip the white section up to release before pulling on the “wire” (ribbon cable). Flip down to lock.

    David Hill - 返信

  13. Remove the five 1.5 mm Torx T3 screws securing the motherboard.
    • Remove the five 1.5 mm Torx T3 screws securing the motherboard.

    • Remove the 2.0 mm Torx T4 screw securing the motherboard.

    The orange cycle t4 2,0 mm screw was actually a t3 1.5 mm screw on my surface pro 4. Just noting this here so others are not confused about that.

    Bob Bobsens - 返信

  14. Use plastic opening tool to remove metal casing at the bottom left corner of the motherboard.
    • Use plastic opening tool to remove metal casing at the bottom left corner of the motherboard.

    This step is unnecessary as the metal cover was already removed to detach the screen.

    Andy - 返信

  15. Remove remaining screw.
    • Remove remaining screw.

    • 2.0 mm Torx T4 screw.

    You have to remove camera connectors and speakers to remove motherboard. The battery connector is kept in place by adhesive.

    Matthew - 返信

  16. The battery is attached to the device by strong adhesive tape. Use a plastic opening tool to pry around the underside of the battery. Peel the battery up and away from the bottom of the device.
    • The battery is attached to the device by strong adhesive tape. Use a plastic opening tool to pry around the underside of the battery.

    • Peel the battery up and away from the bottom of the device.

    • Do not use metal tools for this step. the battery can leak harmful substances if punctured.

    My battery was expanding (Screen was lifting on left hand side) and that made this step the hardest part of the whole process. It was like there was gas between the foil and the battery inside, so it would pull away when trying to lift. You can use the iOpener and place under the section of the battery you are working on, that helped loosen it for me.

    mike_mcquillan - 返信

    If this is like the iPhone batteries, then get a piece of dental floss. Double it up to strengthen it and then loop behind the battery. Use a sawing action to cut through the glue.

    Anthony shackman - 返信

    what do you use to re attach it?

    Adam - 返信

    I left the old adhesive pads on and reassembled the heat sink, then plugged in the charger and gave the cpu a good hot supper. That seemed to do the trick.

    vennic -

    Be careful as you get near to the end of this. I was pulling it away and the last section came away suddenly, snapping the connection to the body. Read the comments after the next step BEFORE you begin it. The battery is attached to the case in different ways which can complicate things. It also seems to be advisable to isolate the battery from the motherboard using a piece of paper or equiv. before removing.

    David Hill - 返信

  17. In order to prevent a short circuit, insert a piece of cardboard, paper or plastic between the battery connector and motherboard before sliding the battery cable out from under the motherboard. Also be careful to protect the motherboard from shorts while placing the cable for the new battery. Detach the battery from under the motherboard. Remove from the device.
    • In order to prevent a short circuit, insert a piece of cardboard, paper or plastic between the battery connector and motherboard before sliding the battery cable out from under the motherboard.

    • Also be careful to protect the motherboard from shorts while placing the cable for the new battery.

    • Detach the battery from under the motherboard. Remove from the device.

    Vor dem Entfernen des Akkus die Kontakte zwischen Akku und Mainboard isolieren. Dies kann mit einem Papierstreifen gemacht werden.

    Lex Anderson - 返信

    The battery strip is glued down. I flipped the battery over, held the case up on it’s top side. Then while holding the motherboard up I worked a plastic tool up under the connector prying it up until it released. Not easy!

    mcdusty61 - 返信

    I have put it all back together and its not charging it shows the battery is there but not changing from 0% anyideas?

    Jamie - 返信

    The same problem here! Did you resolve?

    artskuz -

    Maybe a bad charger diode. Check out this article: https://www.aonemobiles.com.au/2020/03/m...

    vennic -

    These guys failed to mention that you need to put a piece of paper between the motherboard and where the battery plugs so that you don’t short circuit and mess the machine up. Of course, I did not do this and now it won’t power on. I obviously shorted the thing out. Useless instructions.

    Pebble Beach - 返信

    Just successfully completed this replacement, this step is missing some critical details that could apparently do your device harm, or at the least cause unnecessary headaches. Thanks to those that posted their experiences, you saved me from utter ruin.

    1. Apparently the battery can short to the motherboard during removal, as some have mentioned.. A piece of card stock worked well, as it has more stiffness than “regular” paper. Make it as least as wide as the battery contact tab. I did this when installing as well.

    2. Releasing the battery from the adhesive was a HUGE pain. Some tips to make it easier: floss, heat and leverage. A very long doubled up piece of dental floss actually helped a lot. Pro Glide brand would be best I think (seriously). Continued in next comment…..

    vennic - 返信

    2……Continued from previous comment

    Once I fished the floss under the battery, I wrapped each end around the handle of my small screwdrivers to save my fingers, leaving the strand long enough to pull on the outer shell for leverage. I applied heat underneath with a heat pack, heated until it was just a bit uncomfortable to hold. Unfold the kickstand first. I worked a thick pick and plastic spudger under the edge and let them sit there for leverage while working the floss back and forth in a sawing motion. I had to replace the floss a couple of times.

    3. Once the battery was loose, I checked to make sure the paper strip I had placed was still in place, then set the tablet up on its top edge, letting the battery fold over and rest on edge on the table. There is a square adhesive patch on the backside of the battery contact strip that sticks it to the rear shell of the device. This must be removed. Continued in next comment…..

    vennic - 返信

    3. ……..Continued from previous comment

    At this point it may be helpful to wedge a thick pick or spudger under the left lower edge of the motherboard for better clearance. Using a thin guitar pick, I slowly worked at the adhesive patch under the contacts. There is also a plastic pin sticking off the rear shell that goes through a hole in the far end of the contact strip for alignment. This served as a nice backstop for the pick, so don’t be too concerned about pushing too far. You can see where this hole is placed on the replacement battery. I accidentally ripped through this hole when removing my battery and it I did not offer much resistance, but I don’t recommend this. If you break the plastic pin instead, good luck aligning the new battery.

    Continued in next comment……

    vennic - 返信

    ……Continued from previous comment

    4. Battery removed, I then replaced the paper strip to isolate the new battery contacts, just far enough to catch the plastic pin. I struggled here, but in retrospect I think I would have laid the tablet back down at this point and slid the contact strip over a thick pick to lift it properly in order to hook the hole on the alignment pin. I left the nonstick backing film on the adhesive patch that seats the contact strip to the shell, and here I got kind of lucky, as during the struggle it just kind of came off at the right time. However, I think after aligning the contacts, you could probably lift the battery and coax the nonstick film off the adhesive with a thin pick or a PLASTIC tweezers.

    Ahhh, catharsis. Hopefully this will help some of you. Big thanks again to those who took the time to comment and warn me of some big mistakes. This is my tribute to you.

    vennic - 返信

    Vennic’s comments were very helpful in guiding my own attempt.

    However, after reading the many posts on the internuts of shorted mainboards and other accidents while using the method described here to remove the battery, I decided to just remove the entire mainboard. This just required

    1) 10 more minutes; and

    2) the removal of a few more screws (holding the motherboard, right speaker, power connector and card reader), flex cables and components (only the right speaker actually needed to be removed - the power connector and card reader can stay attached to the mainboard)

    And voila! I could leisurely remove the old battery and adjust the new battery’s position. This turned out to be valuable, because my new battery’s top alignment hole was a little too close to the next 2 and so needed some flexing and adjustment of the contact. I can’t imagine if I had to do this while trying to keep the motherboard clear and work with the narrow gap underneath.

    Continued in next comment…

    denniskhong - 返信

    … continued from previous comment

    But the motherboard goes in (and came out) of the case at an angle, so to prevent shorting accidents I did have a strip of cardboard covering the battery contacts until the motherboard was properly seated. Then I slowly withdrew the cardboard and re-installed/tightened all the motherboard screws.

    denniskhong - 返信

    I should add that the one tool that helped me the most here - but is not mentioned in this guide - is an iSesamo! Or any similar, thin spring-steel product. It’s thin enough to be slipped under the screen after heating the adhesive, and thin and hard enough to simulate a blade (albeit a dull one). So with a little sawing motion (like using a craft knife) I was able to cut through the softened adhesive and work my way around the sides.

    denniskhong - 返信

    As for softening adhesives… I didn’t have an iOpener nor a heat gun, while a hair dryer was taking way too long (plus, like a heat gun, there was no telling how hot I might accidentally heat the tablet up to). So I decided to use a steam iron (you know, the one for ironing clothes). Although that may horrify many techies, hear me out. As I said, I had none of the commonly-used tools. Meanwhile, the steam iron has a very important benefit: the temperature of steam is self-limited to 100 deg C, which means there’s absolutely no way I’d accidentally overheat the tablet/work area.

    continued in next post…

    denniskhong - 返信

    …continued from previous post

    To be sure, these conditions must be fulfilled for this to work safely:-

    1) the tablet must be switched off (duh!)

    2) ensure battery has been run down to flat (set the power options in Windows to do nothing when battery level is critical, then leave the tablet running until it shuts down by itself)

    3) the steam iron should have a steam jet function (which delivers a more focused jet of steam instead of generally emitting steam all over the plate as steam irons normally do

    4) do NOT allow the iron hotplate to contact the screen or tablet - only the steam!

    Engage the steam jet and heat up one section (about half a side) of the tablet frame, then stick an iSesamo in and slice. Repeat.

    I had a cracked screen so I thought I had little to lose. As it turned out, the tablet worked after replacing the battery and even the screen was still functioning (except for the cracks of course).

    denniskhong - 返信

終わりに

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

78 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

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41 件のコメント

thanks for this, use my surface pro 4 all the time, batteries are a disposable item and really need to be user replaceable

(if a company doesn't have a battery replacement service as good as apple's that is)

Bit of hassle but glad it can be done, zero idea where to get a replacement battery from though )-:

Adrian - 返信

found ! selling on ebay, look totally genuine too

Adrian - 返信

excellent presentation. I’d never try it myself. But I came here with what appears to be a battery problem. If you accept it as a bit offtopic: my battery icon reads 100%. when I am connected to my adaptor. When I remove the aadaptor plug, the screen goes to only a faint outline…to faint to read what % the battery is reading at. Any thoughts? I’m in a rural area of South West Thailand. So, v difficult to get to a reliable repair shop. Thanks !

paddy - 返信

This is probably too late for you now, you’ve probably solved this. But for anyone else experiencing this issue, it COULD be the power options. Windows automatically changes the screen brightness when you unplug, you could’ve accidentally set it right down. Go to Control Panel (Small Icons view) > Power Options. There should be options in there for what to do when removing the power adapter. Sorry I can’t be more specific, I’m on a desktop so it doesn’t have the right options to explain it fully.

dave.robilliard -

Thanks for the tutorial. Managed to break a display cable anyway T_T. Just broke itself… The rest was almost a piece of cake.

Seriously WHY so much shields on the motherboard, its insane… As a Mac Technician for almost two decades never saw such a mess (well except the powerbook 12” maybe).

That being said, I love my Surface !

huexley Yannick - 返信

I believe it is shielding EMF/EMI from the LCD, since everything is mounted right behind the LCDin extremely close proximity, electromagnetic interference can distort the picture, at least that’s the theory. On a Mac or traditional laptop, the LCD is well away from the current carrying portions of the laptop

Glen D -

Anyone knows if the Surface Pro is able to run without battery? Connected to power supply of cause.

Søren B - 返信

I was not able to run it with the dead battery, even plugged in. It would start to boot, but once the OS kicked in with all the graphics, it would die. I managed to get Ubuntu Linux to work on it a little better, but I would not suggest it. It did not work well enough to use, and Ubuntu didn’t have drivers to run the pen or touch screen very well. Ultimately, replacing the battery worked, and I am now enjoying my Surface Pro 4 again!

Ray Sewell -

I have two under my belt now.

First was a broken screen, very difficult getting the screen off without leaving shards of glass attached to the adhesive. Replaced all adhesive with new.

Second was a battery that was expanding lifting the left side of the screen. Since the left side was lifted this made getting it started for easier. Screen came off intact. The speaker wire (Red/Black) is very fragile, I pulled the pins out of the holder when trying to remove. I was able to put them back. I would avoid it if you can as you only have to lift the mother board high enough to get the battery out and back in. There is enough slack, so I would recommend only removing if absolutely necessary. Followed tip to remove and replace thermal paste (Cleaner and paste (~$15). Had to replace the adhesive under the batter, just ran several stripes of the 2mm adhesive that I used for the display.

This site was a great guide.

mike_mcquillan - 返信

Thank you for this teardown and instructions! I just finished repairing my Surface Pro 4 after it sat for a year as a brick when the battery died. (I couldn’t get it to reliably boot up - and stay up - with a bad battery, even when it was plugged in.) I purchased all of the suggested equipment but ended up having to use a razor to shave off some of the aluminum case - near the indentation where the speakers are - in order to get the opening pick under the screen. The pictures were very helpful. Mine had a fan attached to the heat sink on the left side of the device, which meant there were a couple more screws to remove, but otherwise, the teardown was spot on.

Ray Sewell - 返信

Hi friend

Where I can get original battery for my Surface Pro 4?

Please give me link

Many thanks

Andread - 返信

Which part of the screen is the actual touch screen connection? I just did all of this and my touch is off a bit. I touch one place and it moves one other place. The pen isn’t accurate anymore either. My guess is it’s that housed connection on the back of the screen itself? I can take this thing apart again and just try it; just wanted to see if anyone had the exact connections..

Thanks

Ward Anderson - 返信

Kinda strange that they take the hear directly to the battery…. I might be paranoid but it smells a little fishy to me!

Also they should make battery replacements way easier! Surface pros are almost a disposable tablet. I didn’t buy one purely cause of this, but I love them so much!

Chloe Mcholoe - 返信

Super !!! Vielen Dank für die Anleitung. Ich habe mir zwar ein wenig mehr Zeit gelassen aber alles funktioniert ;-) der neue Akku läd wieder und mein Surface Pro 4 läuft wieder. Danke noch mal. Achso und es gab noch gleich eine größere SSD =)

Viele Grüße,

Michael

Michael Krömer - 返信

my pro 4 is not working with the replaced battery, only works when plugged in. please what can i do?

Samuel David - 返信

It was challenging for me to get the contacts in the right place. Aside from that, could be a bad diode. https://www.aonemobiles.com.au/2020/03/m...

vennic -

same here, changed the swollen battery, surface boots only with adapter and windows reports 100% full battery. Is there a calibration tool or something?

philipploeffler - 返信

Sounds like a bad voltage diode. I had similar problem replacing battery, screen and diode on mine.

Alfredo -

hallo, kann man das Sur face auch zur Reparatur schicken?

Johannes Baumgartner - 返信

I change the battery on mine (twice !!!) and it doesn’t charge the new battery.

However, the old battery is charged when plugged in.

If anyone has any info..

Thanks

WhuzDaMan - 返信

I seem to be having a similar issue. I have yet to find out what is wrong. If you ever find out what is wrong let me know; I have heard it could be a blown resistor but have yet to find one that does not give a voltage readout.

Logan Rocha -

Thanks for tutorial, but I wonder that if I remove battery and only use power adaptor ( while wait a new battery ) , I can use it as a pc ?

Tai Le - 返信

Be careful around the antenna when removing the display. I sheared the antenna sticker in half and needed to wait 30 days for a new antenna (25$).

Otherwise, the repair was very doable once the screen is off. The recommended adhesive (tesa), does make the display sit lower than original, giving the border a slight sharp edge all around. I would recommend a slightly thicker adhesive for reassembly.

Henri - 返信

Hallo,

kann man das Surface auch ohne Akku, nur mit dem Netzteil, betreiben ?

Achim Dresser - 返信

I have purchased and successfully follow the guide to replace my battery. But it seems that i am not able to restore charge amount of time when at 100% it’s only report 1 hour and a half approx.. when on the new battery. Is there any tool or calibration to restore this new battery that I purchased from ifixt to full capacity?.

It look the new battery is original here is what it shows using battery only power:

Description Value

Battery Name X910527

Manufacture Name SMP

Power State Discharging

Current Capacity (in %) 80.4%

Current Capacity Value 26,092 mWh

Full Charged Capacity 32,445 mWh

Designed Capacity 38,152 mWh

Battery Health 85.0%

Voltage 7,896 millivolts

Charge/Discharge Rate -6,480 milliwatts

Chemistry Lithium Ion

Low Battery Capacity (1) 983 mWh

Low Battery Capacity (2) 3,244 mWh

Number of charge/discharge cycles 229

Remaining battery time for the current activity (Estimated) 03:37:46

Full battery time for the current activity (Estimated) 04:30:48

Remaining time for charging the battery (Estimated)

lagarescarlos - 返信

Thanks for this information and useful comments.

I need to add that my Pro4’s heat tube has a cooling fan , so I needed to disconnect the fan cable connector by the power switch connector.

Mikio Kuge - 返信

ahhhh This has been a nightmare trying to perform. The shields are such a pain in the ass!

Matt Faherty - 返信

CAUTION! I completed this process to replace the battery on mine, and there is one IMPORTANT step that should be on this guide. Before removing the battery, a plastic card should be inserted between the battery contacts and the underside of the mainboard to isolate the battery from the contacts on the underside of the mainboard. When I was working the adhesive on the battery contacts from the chassis, the connections crossed and shorted something and burned out the IT8528VG chip. I contacted a repair shop regarding replacement of this part and they said it requires a hot air station to remove and micro soldering to replace. They said they see this common error when repairing. Now my Surface is a paperweight. Please add this crucial step to these instructions.

It is very frustrating to have performed this long, difficult process perfectly, with an intact Surface screen at the end, only to have irreparably destroyed it because of one important missing step.

Kyle Wagner - 返信

This can happen because of a blown battery.

Iam still searching why my pro4 isn't running from the battery only with the power connector.

philip oeh -

Appreciate the guide, this was an absolute pain to replace and I do NOT care for removing a battery as easy to damage as these when they’re mounted with such an obscene amount of adhesive. This guide allowed me to do so regardless, thanks.

SparkWorx - 返信

READ ALL STEPS AND COMMENTS FIRST BEFORE STARTING!!!

My surface would not charge the battery and would go dead if unplugged, then would go dead on reboot unless given a hard restart. New battery fixed the issue.

Step 18 is incomplete without reading the comments first, you could apparently brick your device if you don’t remove the old battery using a step that is not included in the guide. Also the guide gives NO guidance on detaching the battery contact strip from the shell, or how to properly install the new battery, which is odd, considering the title of the article. I (and others) wrote some comments on step 18 that should be helpful. The rest of the guide was great, but as is, incomplete.

vennic - 返信

I recently attempted this repair but with a new battery installed the device now won’t power on. The old battery was severely swollen and despite being as careful as possible I tore the outer foil wrapper and even tore the connector on the battery during removal (the battery did not smoke or seem that it had shorted). Regardless, it’s pretty clear that the device is shorted and is now bricked, right? Is there any remedy or is the motherboard “fried”?

I wish I would have seen the comments on step 18 about putting an insulator (paper) between the old battery and motherboard when removing. This may have saved my device.

Tabaplar - 返信

Just finished replacing the antenna and the battery on Surface Pro4. I highly recommend ignoring the steps to remove the battery without removing the motherboard (mb). Removing the mb is less difficult than trying to get the battery ribbon in and out. As many have learned, you can brick your mb, and, like me not get it aligned properly causing “no battery detected”. After removing the mb, I was able to realign the battery ribbon properly and all worked great. This video is great at removing the mb. Don’t worry about removing the buttons, left speaker, or SSD (they won’t interfere).

Youtube video number: n74Pc_luSGI (How to Take Apart the Microsoft Surface Pro 4)

Once mb is removed, remove the battery, and install the new battery, insuring the battery ribbon is on the plastic locator pin (not in instructions), place adhesive under ribbon to hold in proper place for contacts on the mb.

I purchased these and both work great:

Battery (Amazon ASIN): B08595GYBN

Antenna (Amazon ASIN): B08PV8SZ3R

bncote - 返信

Please add a disclaimer about how to AVOID shorting out the motherboard!!!

Ryan Sicard - 返信

This is some kind of sick joke, right? I just got through this and took out my battery. I do not know how the heck I’m going to get this thing back together.

What’s this paste where the old battery terminal connection was and how the heck am I supposed to get the new battery into place

Nicholas Redding - 返信

Did anyone have to use an adhesive to reseat the screen or did you just reheat the original adhesive?

Scott Evans - 返信

You need new adhesive

philip oeh -

Will a samsung 970 evo plus be fine to replace in the SP4? I know the 970 evo works fine, but just dont know the difference.

quinton - 返信

This worked great for me except I’m now having a problem with my computer not wanting to start up when I have the screen in place. If I hold it by the edges just above the computer, it boots up fine. There must be something touching that shouldn’t and cause it to turn off. Anyone have this problem or have an idea of how I can troubleshoot it?

Marianne Barrier - 返信

I would HIGHLY suggest removing the entire motherboard when performing this repair. It’s just another few screws and a few ribbon cables to take it out, and it will make removing and installing the new battery 10 times easier and allow you to align it properly. The guide is not kidding about the adhesive holding the back of the battery in place - it is very strong! I ended up using a heat gun on the back side of the device (underneath the kickstand) to help soften it a little bit, and an old credit card to help pry the battery out.

Cameron Bunch - 返信

A few thoughts, having done this over the weekend:

First, get yourself one of those sets of three plastic putty knives from the hardware store (the ones that have 3 different sizes). The middle size was the same size as the battery, and made removal of the battery while heating the back of the case a breeze.

Second, remove the tiny screws (two on each side) holding the kickstand to the hinges. It’ll let you fold it all the way back, which makes heating the backside much easier.

Third, while you’re in there, scrape out the copious and ill-applied thermal paste from on and around the CPU dies, and put on something decent. I did, and my Pro 4 is running much cooler now.

Last, TAKE YOUR TIME. I managed to remove and replace my screen without issue, but it took me a bit more than two hours to get it removed, and then remove the adhesive from the case and the back of the screen. I started in the upper-right corner, used the iFixIt Jimmy, and kept the heat gun around the bezel only, just slightly ahead of the Jimmy

tbldr - 返信

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