はじめに
Folge dieser Anleitung, um das Kühlungsproblem deines MacBooks besser in den Griff zu bekommen.
"Zu deiner Sicherheit, entlade zuerst den Akku deines MacBooks Pros unter 25%", bevor du beginnst. Ein geladener Lithium-Ionen-Akku kann, wenn er versehentlich beschädigt wird, ein gefährliches und unkontrollierbares Feuer entfachen.
Nach der Reparatur verbesserte sich die Leistung meines MacBook Pros (2,2GHz 6-Core i7 & Radeon Pro 555X 4GB) unter Volllast von fallenden 3,1GHz-2,6GHz bei 100°C auf durchgehende 3,2GHz bei 95°C.
必要な工具と部品
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Schalte deinen Mac ein und starte Terminal.
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Kopiere den folgenden Befehl und füge ihn im Terminal ein (oder tippe ihn exakt so ein):
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00
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Drücke die Eingabetaste [return]. Wenn du dazu aufgefordert wirst, gib dein Administratorpasswort ein und drücke erneut [return]. Hinweis: die Return-Taste kann auch mit ⏎ oder "enter" gekennzeichnet sein.
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03
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Entferne mit einem P5-Pentalobe-Schraubenzieher die sechs Schrauben, mit denen das untere Gehäuse befestigt ist:
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Vier 4,7 mm Schrauben
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Zwei 6,6 mm Schrauben
I miss a printable template to leave the screws and removed parts on it for future identification when reassembly, linked maybe with the location in the Macbook, or with the number of the step.
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Drücke den Saugnapf in der Nähe der Vorderkante auf das untere Gehäuse zwischen den Schraubenlöchern.
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Ziehe den Saugnapf gerade so weit nach oben, bis eine kleine Lücke unter dem unteren Gehäuse entsteht.
Throw away this suction cup and get another. It just doesn't work! Luckily I had one that does work in my tool kit.
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Ziehe das untere Gehäuse fest in Richtung der Vorderkante des MacBook (vom Scharnierbereich weg), um die letzten Clips zu lösen, mit denen das untere Gehäuse gesichert ist.
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Ziehe zuerst an einer Ecke und dann an der anderen.
this step must require a lot of force. I tried to pull it with the plastic hookie thing from the ifixit set by hooking it in one of the screw holes — the tip of the hookie thing broke.
PLEASE DON'T PULL!!!
Instead just gently push with plastic pick from the other side (where vents outputs are) towards the center... Cover will very easily open that way.
I hope iFixit will correct this step.
Came here to share exactly this.
Robert -
That's definitely how this step should be done. Thanks!
VovS -
If someone has a photo to share regarding this comment, it might be very useful. Thanks.
I used a screwdriver at 45 degrees angle and pushed the cover from the hinges, it worked really smooth. I had it close to the corners.
Yeah, definitely don't pull; if you do, wear protective gloves. Mine was stuck so strongly that I just cut my palm quite deep.
You would think ifixit would investigate why the last step required them to pull with great force to remove the bottom case lid as the solution.
It's counter-intuitive to use an excessive method to remove a part.
There's always an easier way. It's frustrating because you can't see inside.
Using the iFixit opening Tool in the hinge opening required close to no force to open.
Ah... after attempting to 'pull' this rear cover off, to no avail, I tried to coax the cover off with a nylon pry tool. MUCH better! iFixIt will do well to amend it's recommendation to 'pull' this cover in any way. All I wanted to do was a little house cleaning and exorcize the dust bunnies that took up residence in my MBP's fans. Today is much quieter. Thank you all for pointing out the obvious.
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Entferne das untere Gehäuse.
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Lege es in Position und richtedie Clips in der Nähe des Displayscharniers aus. Drücke die Abdeckung nach unten und schiebe sie zum Scharnier. Es sollte nicht mehr rutschen, wenn die Clips einrasten.
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Wenn die Clips vollständig eingerastet sind und das untere Gehäuse korrekt ausgerichtet ist, drücke fest auf das untere Gehäuse, um die vier verdeckten Clips darunter einzurasten. Du solltest fühlen und hören, wie sie einrasten.
If I had it all to do over, again, I would blow out the dust with compressed air at this point. During the disassembly, I kept encountering little dust bunnies, and I was very worried that one would get caught in one of the connectors when I plugged everything back up (which wouldn’t get discovered until I put it all back together and tried out all of the components).
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Das Thermal Pad passend zu schneiden, damit es auf die CPU und GPU passt.
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Thermalpad Maße: 50mmx50mmx0.8-1mm
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Erste Schutzfolie des Pads abziehen und vorsichtig auf die beiden ersichtlichen Stellen (CPU und GPU) auflegen und leicht festdrücken.
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Nachdem das Pad festgedrückt wurde und gut und satt anliegt, die zweite Seite der Schutzfolie entfernen.
Hier sollte das Pad mit mindestens 1,5mm Dicke verwendet werden, damit es auch optimalen Kontakt mit dem Aludeckel macht und somit auch die optimale Kühlwirkung erzielt.
Das Pad habe ich zusätzlich zu neuer Wärmeleitpaste installiert und habe eine noch höhere Kühlwirkung erzielen können.
What steps did you take & where did you install the thermal paste?
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Arbeite die Schritte in umgekehrter Reihenfolge ab, um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen.
Arbeite die Schritte in umgekehrter Reihenfolge ab, um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen.
21 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
10 件のコメント
It would be useful to mention the thermal pad and thermal paste at the beginning.
Please provide specifications for the thermal pad and thermal paste, or suggestions for each.
This guide was also useful when just wanting to take everything apart to clean the fans.
Amazing! Thank you for this safe 'n easy guide. I mean that is a difference... Twitter post
definitely does make a difference. Maybe the performance benefits depends on the pads used. I got mine from a brand called fujipoly, 1mm. Also, I used a total of 50mmx50mm, cut in half in total for the cpu/gpu
Thermal paste and this mod. done today, it works very well but the bottom cover of the mac can get very hot attention!
I made a few changes to what the guide recommends (total cost $67):
- Got this 1.5mm premium performance thermal pad instead (instead of the economic pad that's linked) ($22)
- In addition to cutting pads for the GPU & CPU, I cut two 6cm by 1.5cm strips & added them to the heat sink portion that are next to the fans
- I also applied a 200mm by 100mm pad outside of the cover, in between an additional aluminum sheet to help dissipate the heat more easily ($25)
- Am also using a fan-based cooling pad below the aluminum sheet to bring more airflow through it ($20)
Results:
- Single core performance increase: 1.8%
- Multi-core performance increase: 11.3%
- GPU performance increase: 9.5%
- CPU temperature decreased from almost running at 95 degrees celsius all the time, to staying steady at 55-60, & sometimes spiking to 75
Thanks for telling your story about your mod, would you have the same result if you don’t use the cooling pad below the laptop and just the mods with the thermal pads? Thanks
Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.
Macrepair SF - 返信
@mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!
Jeff Suovanen -
Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.
Dan -
This did not work when running High Sierra.
Kyle B - 返信
Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.
Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>
Cool_Breeze - 返信
I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.
Brian - 返信
Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(
Nursat b - 返信
BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.
Jason Sherron - 返信
This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?
Patrick Machacek - 返信
Not able to do that with damaged screen
richardjgreen - 返信
If you have a damaged screen you can still use a converter from thunderbolt (USB 3) to HDMI and plug your Macbook Pro to your TV as monitor display. Just make sure to chose the right Source (HDMI IN) in your TV. I did it and to make it work I unplug and plug again in my Macbook and so I could disable the Auto boot
Roberto Sanchez Bustos -
Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian
Adrian Vizik - 返信
Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.
Roberto Enrieu - 返信
running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted
result: `AutoBoot %00`
Marek Polák - 返信
Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's:
nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot'to display the current state, the default istrue- and then to change it,sudo nvram auto-boot=falsewhich turns it off.Ed Mechem -
This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.
Grant Ormsby - 返信
It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.
tommy404 - 返信
I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.
hatuxka - 返信
BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!
I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.
Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.
bcardanha - 返信
I've just received my replacement battery and it reads 0,042V between the two main connectors. Do you think it's dead?
peter sussex -
When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”
johann beda - 返信
When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a
pwd(print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.Ed Mechem -
I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.
I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.
I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.
Mircea Comanici - 返信
After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.
Ed Mease - 返信
This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.
G Sena - 返信
Est ce que cela fonctionne sur un macbook pro 2017 sans touchbar ?
maël muzelet - 返信
Bonjour Maël, oui, ce tutoriel concerne "les MacBook Pro 2016 (et plus récents) et les MacBook Retina 12" 2017 (et plus récents)"
Claire Miesch -
Excellent instructions. I was able to follow and install the new screen. I recommend that you get a good set of tools before you begin. I started with an inexpensive repair kit bought online. The Penta and torx bits failed. I bought an IFIXIT kit with quality bits and I was able to do everything I needed.
Tom Markham - 返信
If you're not running an admin account the sudo command won't work (which honestly, you should not be running admin). Rather than logging in to your admin amount via the OS, in the terminal type "login [admin username]," then the password and you'll be able to do the sudo command as described above. Once you're complete, type "logout [admin username]" and you'll be good to go. Obviously replace [admin username] with whatever the account name for your admin user is.
arichard2401 - 返信
For those unable to complete this step because the screen is too damaged I recommend leaving your macbook on until the battery dies.
Nicholas R Licato - 返信
Just replaced my 2018 15" MBP battery. Running Sonoma.
I found no way to disable AutoBoot (The status can be checked in the Power section of system report).
Anyway, i left my battery completely drain before opening the MBP, and had no issues during the process.
Cédric Bontems - 返信
After sending this command in terminal when I checked what happens if I now open the lid, instead the screen lit slightly up (still black) then a battery symbol showing the charging state showed up.
Now, after replacement of the battery, this is all I get to see.
No reset of NVRAM nor PRAM helped.
Currently the new battery charges (58% atm) and it feels like it‘s mocking me.
webrockers - 返信
I suspected the keyboard or TouchID sensor wouldn’t work, so I went on and checked every connector.
I missed connecting the left TouchID sensor from step 31.
webrockers -
Read the comments section at the bottom of the article before proceeding with the repair. It is unnecessary to remove the logic board. I actually removed the 45mm plastic bar to enable the cables to slip out then in. It is only there to frustrate repairers!
Jack - 返信