このガイドを使ってMacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 に新しい基板を交換しましょう。

  1. MacBook Proの底ケースに固定されているP5ペンタローブネジを取り外します。
    • MacBook Proの底ケースに固定されているP5ペンタローブネジを取り外します。

    • 3.0 mmー8本

    • 2.3 mmー2本

    To remove the back panel there are two different pentalobe screws 2.3mm and 3mm however on the tools list there is only one screwdriver. Will I be able to remove both screws with the same screwdriver?

    lantzero - 返信

    In my case it worked. Don't know if it was a 2,3 or 3 mm screwdriver

    Christian Mohr -

    The 2.0 and 2.3 mm measurements are screw lengths, the screw heads are the same sized P5 pentalobe heads. We include the screw lengths so you don't put the wrong screws in the wrong places and end up with screw heads poking out of your device. Hope that clears up some confusion =)

    Sam Lionheart -

    Yes the same screwdriver will remove both screws, the difference in screws I believe is the length and width but the head is the same.

    Mike -

    will this unit work with the Mid 2012 Macbook Pro Retina's as well?

    drscottgreenwell - 返信

    Same question...anyone know? Damaged my 2012 board and if possible would like to upgrade to this unit

    cloughenough -

    This works for rMBP 2012 late

    iyeori -

    Woohoo, much easier than I thought... Just got confused with the bottom case screw driver but after figure out it was P5 then everything went smooth.... One thing I wanted to upgrade was the wifi to ac and got one on ebay!

    didierma - 返信

    If you have 54 Bit Driver kit, please use Star 5 driver to remove screw for rMBP 2012 Late

    iyeori - 返信

    Where can I find the driver for the MacBook Pro Retina Display 15'4 i7 on your website iFixit please.

    Epifanio - 返信

    It took about 40 minutes due to an extreme measure of caution but I did it! The only real difficulty was reattaching the screen to the base (yes you have to pry the hinges open) and re-connecting the camera wires. After a few tries the camera wires finally came together. I'm hating Apple for all it's frailty and magical screws but I love ifixit!

    floyd - 返信

    Simple guide, but it solved my problem. Was wondering why the top two screws weren't going all the way down. Hadn't realized they were 0.7mm shorter.

    Emilio Mejia - 返信

    I have BootCamp running Win7 on my MBPwRetina15" 2013'Late. I run Visual Studio to build and run my Company's Application which is very CPU & NVidia (specific) intensive. So much so that during a build & run of app I was averaging about 85~95+Celcius!!! And every so often would reach 100Celcius!!! I could not take it anymore so I decided to delve into and re-apply Thermal Paste on the CPU/GPU. I ended up going with CooLaboratory Liquid Pro instead of the traditonal AS5. The original Thermal Paste was pure garbage,,, part of the CPU seemed like it was missing TP. I was scared to do this but it turned out easier than I had imagined. I am currently building the same application and can already observe that the temps average about 75~85 and once in a while will reach 90Celcius. So I am seeing about a 10~15 degree drop in Temps and that makes me very happy!

    Alvaro Suarez - 返信

    Nice to hear that, i was looking for that kind of information. I have a MBPwRetina 15 Mid 2012 and looking to obtain the best performance!

    Jose David Valle -

    Woa! Thanks dude! And you follow some guides here for the thermal paste? My mac 15’’ early 2013 heats up a lot but I’m a bit worried about touching anything

    Bert0ld0 -

    Good to list the bit needed to open the case: P6

    brian2burnett - 返信

    Much easier than expected. Sounds like several people had trouble with the backlight. It is possible that they damaged something by not first making sure to power down the computer completely with the “Shut Down” command. This should be step 1 before removing the back cover screws. Also as noted all the back cover screws are Apple Pentelope #5 bit, but 2 of the screws are shorter than the others. This bit is is hard to find in most stores. Buy it on line along with the Tork #5 and #8. 11/21/2017

    Walt Goede - 返信

    Replaced my Magsafe 2 yesterday and it works perfectly on my MBP 15” ea13. However, when I plugged in the charger I heard the startup sound twice and then I got to the login page where I realized the keyboard didn’t respond.

    So I thought I should restart the computer so I clicked ”shut down”. But the keyboard is dead. I can’t start it. I haven’t tried to use a USB-keyboard yet..

    Any ideas what may have caused this to happen and what component ”handles” the keyboard? Thanks


    Jakob Dahlin - 返信

    Not sure if this has been listed.

    PRO TIPS from a non-pro:

    1 - Keep screws separated and labeled by step # and size.

    2 - Be very careful to get screws in properly threaded, its VERY easy to strip the ccrew holes and screws. Especially the case. Not that it happened to me…

    3 - It was impossible for me to get all the adhesive off the case from under battery, it left a lot on w/o issue (yet).

    4 - Make sure you have Aluminium Foil before starting!

    5 - Upgrade the SSD or HDD while your in there!

    erin - 返信

    Do we remove the logic board purely to get the speaker enclosures out and away from the acetone? Or does it physically block getting the batteries out? Ie. if I wanted to risk the damage to the speakers, could I jump straight to step 34?

    Obviously I don’t want to melt the speakers, but I’m kinda weighing that risk against losing a screw or breaking a connector…

    Michael Ferenduros - 返信

    So I did take the risk and swapped out the battery without doing the logic-board + speaker removal.

    Before applying the acetone I put tape on the exposed sides of the speaker-enclosures as best I could - I wrapped the tape, sticky side out, around a card, slid it into the gap, and pressed it onto the speakers. And when applying the acetone, I squirted it as gently as possible onto the side of the battery and let it run down the side, which seemed to help avoid getting too much on the speakers.

    The speaker’s plastic turned white in the spots where the acetone touched it, but it looked like surface damage only. Otherwise it was a nice and smooth procedure.

    Your milage may vary, obviously.

    Michael Ferenduros -

    Success. I needed to replace the right speaker. I thought I was ready at step 22 (you are able to replace the left speaker at this point… but but the right) To replace the right I continued thru step 29 but didn’t completely remove the motherboard. I just lifted it enough to remove and replace the right speaker cable.

    Read all of the comments and solved many problems. Thanks to I-fixit, Walter Galen and all who posted comments.

    Will Brecht - 03/02/2019

    Will Brecht - 返信


    If you're taking the shortcut (nylon, wire…and no adhesive for battery removal (you'll def need to remove the adhesive once the battery pack is removed) things to note:

    1 The adhesive may still be pretty strong. Mine was and I broke several wires trying to do the cheese cutter move down the back of the middle two batteries

    2 if you're cheese cutting through the adhesive, when you get to the base, don't go too far. I did and severed the battery cell connector… disconcerting puff of smoke.

    Ruairi Kennedy - 返信


    3 the you tube video dude was lucky not to have his two Central batteries adhered . Mine were stuck fast.

    4 don't forget about the two small T 5 screws to the left and right of the battery head board, just below the main battery connector.

    5 the Track Pad sits behind the two central batteries. The batteries are adhered to a flat plate that protects the Track Pad which is pretty resilient. You can do the cheese wire trick without cutting through anything you shouldn't. However be careful if you're using a spudger or other tool between the two centre batteries at the top of the T. This is where the Track Pad connector (its very flat and exposed) to the motherboard.

    6 seems obvious when it's written , but you will need the adhesive remover if you are interested in removing the adhesive. It's a work out.

    Ruairi Kennedy - 返信

  2. クラッチカバー付近の端を持ち上げて、MacBook Proの底ケースを外します。
    • クラッチカバー付近の端を持ち上げて、MacBook Proの底ケースを外します。

    • 底ケースを脇に置きます。

    Does anyone noticed that the bottom cover and the bottom case is actually linked with the black plastic near the battery?! After the first time you open the cover, it will be impossible to put it back to the original place. Does the critical?! Thanks a lot for informing

    jamiegan835 - 返信

    I was able to simply push and click those clips back into place before I did the screwing.

    Tim Peat -

    I truly believe this is placebo and the 10*C difference is because in the process the dust was removed from the fan/heat sink rather then the thermal "magic" paste.

    This is a "PC" habit.

    On the other hand, all the cases and protections out there have a bad effect on cooling (not sleeves or pouches) because the whole aluminum body helps dissipate heat.

    I've never had any problems with any mac regarding heat (they do get hot, but it is OK).

    Whenever you feel heat from electronic device means the heat radiates away from it.. which means the cooling is doing a good job :).

    crus - 返信


    Writing about dust and dirt, do you know any cleaning products for the interior of the mac. i mean how do you clean your laptop, pc, etc..


    Jose David Valle -

    This is untrue. Over time thermal paste will dry up and crack and not provide good coverage between the device and the cooler. The paste massively improves the thermal transfer between the chip and the heatsink. If you do not believe in the magic paste then you should wipe it all off and apply just a little bit or none at all and then compare temperatures. You will see the paste is responsible for a big reduction in temperature.

    Andrew Fox -

    I was able to remove all screws but lower case is not comming off easly. Is it glued to somthing?

    Thanks for help.

    c4rlosv8 - 返信

    There are two clips in the centre which simply unclip with a little force.

    Tim Peat -

    If you are following this how-to because liquid/coffee splashed in through the back vents, WAIT UNTIL THE END to clean any liquid spills on the bottom panel. Use them as your map for cleaning and QA guide for checking until you are finished with your cleanup of logic board and other items.

    auntialias - 返信

  3. バッテリーコネクタを覆っている注意書きラベルを剥がします。
    • バッテリーコネクタを覆っている注意書きラベルを剥がします。

    For rMBP 2012 Late, you don't need to remove this sticker.

    iyeori - 返信

    Have laptop charging issues after this. When fully charged and i plug in magsafe it starts with green, then turns red and stays red (like if it was charging). Status bar says NOT charging. If i use battery a little bit (down to 69%) magsafe does the same (green then stay red). Status bar says battery 69% NOT charging. and it seems to be true. Any suggestions?

    g000phy - 返信

    Double check the connection from the battery to the logic board and the logic board socket itself... Might have damaged by disconnect/reconnect.

    max damage -

    Why is this step necessary?

    67b5ebab - 返信

    67b5ebab Good question !

    Why is this necessary ?

    bigb19791979 - 返信

    This step is necessary to prevent any discharging, arcing, friction/static charges from damaging any of the extremely delicate and intricate parts of this (or most any) electrical system. In practice, you should even be wearing an anti-static band or be working on an anti-static bench even with the battery disconnected so your body doesn't create any unintentional charges.

    One of the first things you should learn in electronics repair and and electrical in general is to cut the power source whenever possible before performing any work. Some systems have schedulers/triggers set that will wake the system up (even when closed) to perform updates and other maintenance tasks as to not eat up CPU and RAM during 'peak hours'. The last thing you need is to have your $2,000 laptop turn on while pulling an SSD (which, correct me if wrong, isn't a plug-and-play based device) which could do some serious corruption and/or damage; when all you had to do was peel a sticker and plug.

    Hope that helps!!

    ~the more you know~

    Colin Devenney - 返信

    I did not peel back the sticker. It is probably there to help unplug the battery. You can apply a gentle constant pull while you use spudger to lift the battery connector out of the socket as per the next step. It made this very easy.

    Achilles - 返信

    There is another connector here on mine, just to the left and up above the text on the battery sticker. It is an empty ZIPF socket on all these photos.

    Richard C - 返信

  4. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、バッテリーコネクターの接続部分を基板上のソケットから真っ直ぐ引き上げます。 バッテリーケーブルを後ろ側に折り曲げ、バッテリーコネクタがアクシデントで基板に接触しないように確認してください。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、バッテリーコネクターの接続部分を基板上のソケットから真っ直ぐ引き上げます。

    • バッテリーケーブルを後ろ側に折り曲げ、バッテリーコネクタがアクシデントで基板に接触しないように確認してください。

    I ordered the whole kit, but seeing how much tedious effort it was to take out so many parts so they wouldn't be damaged by the solvent, I skipped from here to step 34 and only used the supplied cards (credit-card sized) with patience and persistence to free the battery sections from the backing. Success! Then I used a q-tip to apply the solvent to remove the remnants of the adhesive from the aluminum case. My battery was very swollen, so it was like removing little pillows. I think the swelling may have helped to give me additional access with the cards to free it. Success! My MBP is back up and running, and now the trackpad clicks again and it sits flat on a table!

    Joel Replogle - 返信

    So no need basically to unscrew all the mac

    Bert0ld0 -

    Joel - the purpose of all of the trouble in removing the logic board is to make sure that you don’t damage anything when you start pull out the battery. After this step - it’s true, you have about 12 connectors and dozens of screws to unplug, but I didn’t have any major problems.

    REASSEMBLY - I had to use alot of force to get the official IFIXIT battery connect to push into place to actually connect. I was worried that one of the wires would stress and break. It worked, but it was not super easy this part.

    Jer - 返信

    I also skipped down to step 50. I stuck a piece of 1/2 inch weather stripping across the middle of the top cover of the laptop to maintain a pitch on the unit so the adhesive remover stayed away from the other components. I applied the remover and used a piece of string to cut through the adhesive strips. I owed the plastic tool from the kit to position the string behind the top of each cell and cut through one ata a time. The battery came out in about 15 minutes. The directions were very informative and useful but I thought the risks associated with dismantling the laptop and reassembling it again were greater. I could not have done it without the details presented. Thank you.

    Thomas Horan - 返信

    Having broken a connector on a logic board in the past, I worried about all the steps. But I understand the disaster that can occur if cleaning fluid contacts the logic board. Weighing costs and benefits, I also did not remove the logic board. I loosened up the speakers (since only two screws could be removed) to give me space to slide the cards under the battery cells. Using the two cards, sometimes sliding one over the other, I was able to remove the battery in 15- 20 minutes. Removing the remaining adhesive was VERY tedious. Eventually I settled on CAREFULLY applying small amounts of remover with the syringe and using the spudger (both pointy and broad ends) to scrape the remainders off. I cleaned the residual with Q-tips dipped in remover (buy a big box of Q-tips), refastened the speakers, installed the new battery, closed the case and voila.

    James Suojanen - 返信

    Question, on the first image above you can read a serial and other information ... The creator of the guide could you confirm if it corresponds exactly to the Apple serial on the box? I wonder why I had the laptop in assistance to replace the GPU, and other problems were born once I returned ... to which removed the cover I saw this sticker and I immediately had doubts about it.

    Antonino Auteri - 返信

    I too found the need to completely teardown the laptop onerous and risky. I’m not certified in anything hardware but I’ve been doing my own repairs for a while. I watched the video referenced above and read the comments there. With some changes, here is what I did, which worked perfectly and minimized the risk, for a whole additional $3 in parts, just myself and in under an hour:

    1. Go to hardware store and get 2 4” bolts ($1 each) and a coil of 20 gauage galvanized wire.

    2. Wrap one end of the wire a few times around one bolt, then tie it off with a knot. Do the same with the other bolt, leaving about 10” of wire between the two.

    3. Follow steps 1-4 in this guide

    4. Slip the wire under one of the outer batteries (use a card or spudger to help get the wire underneath

    5. Grip both bolts with one hand and rock them back and forth, pulling the wire under the battery, using your other hand to hold the case. This should take about 2 seconds (seriously). Repeat for other outer batteries


    steve - 返信

    6. Pull the plastic frames away from the left and right sides of the center batteries.

    7. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for the two center batteries.

    8. Jump to step 55, then reassemble.

    Note: when installing the new battery, ensure the part closest to you is UNDER the two plastic tabs.

    Worked perfectly.

    Link to video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55...

    Note: using the nylon thread with that much effort is crazy. Use the wire or fishing line.

    steve - 返信

    i just got my Kit and started the procedure, i decided to try if i can get the bulged batteries out with a fishing line, which worked fine. No need to use any solvent and even not too much force was needed to get the line under the batteries. I was able to remove the batteries in about 5min, used another 10min to clean the case from the residue, and put in the new battery. All togehter about 20min of work. I´m very happy with the result, Macbook stays now back on its feet, closes correctly and trackpad works as expected.

    manu - 返信

    Also departed from procedure immediately after STEP # 4 as per JOEL’s recommendation …used a small chunk of fishing line and it worked sans solvent…easily ! Spudger worked quite well to initially position the string /line & the ifixit ( ‘credit’ ) cards were nice for final dislodging of each battery segment from the last bits of residual gooey adhesive , AFTER working the fishing line back & forth down the length of the battery as much as possible. With the old battery out of the way, I used a razor blade to clean out the remaining bits of adhesive gunk. ( Decided NOT to use solvent here, either.) Took me every bit of 1-hour.

    One thing that helped ,too, was a cheap pair of cotton gloves coated on the palm side w/ latex. This kept my fingers comfortable from the pressure of the fishing line & allowed more of a range of force …since I wasn’t wincing from saw-cutting myself !

    John Joslin - 返信

    I skipped steps 5-33. These steps are completely unnecessary. I used the back of a flat tweezers to separate the battery from the case.

    support64 - 返信

    so the only reason they are taking all the stuff off before the battery is because of the solvent?

    I used cards and dental floss and just took the battery out … It was a pain in the butt but i got it out with out using the solvent remover solution.

    GR Verner - 返信

  5. スパッジャーの先端を使って、3本のAirPortアンテナケーブルをAirPortボード上のソケットから接続を真っ直ぐ引き上げます。
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、3本のAirPortアンテナケーブルをAirPortボード上のソケットから接続を真っ直ぐ引き上げます。

    will this procedure remove my warranty? I have applecare for another 2 years, Laptop was dropped on the side, there is a very small dent on the side of I/O.

    Oleg Babko - 返信

    Yes, this voids your warranty.

    max damage -

    If I am facing the MacBook like I'm surfing or typing, this I/O board is referring to which side of the MacBook? Left or right side? How about replacing the other side of I/O board? The other side I/O port are part of LogicBoard? If I want to replace it, need to replace the whole LogicBoard? TQ.

    Delta - 返信

    These are notoriously difficult to remove. I actually damaged 2/3 of the connector pins during the process. Thankfully i was still able to fit them in place. This step should not be underestimated.

    Alvin Chua - 返信

    If you are not replacing the display case assembly, you can opt to leave all 3 connectors attached and remove the Airport card with them connected. You will need to carefully manage the card and attached cables so as not to damage them(masking tape) as you proceed with disassembly/reassembly. Step 6 will need to be done carefully (camera cable connector). I did it after step 8. I took a picture of routed cables as well before I removed them from channel.

    lamajr -

    I damaged 1/3 of these litte guys, how did you get them back together?!

    is there a way to replace the antenna?

    Fabian Schweinfurth - 返信

    unless you have really tiny fingers, a tweezer helps, just be careful not to damage the wires or the board as your holding each cable in place. Oh and take your time - this is like the most frustrating step in the process, imo.

    Arn Custodio - 返信

    The order of the cables doesn't seem to matter when re-attaching. It also might be helpful to unscrew and eject the airport card. Having it free can give you a better angle.

    joey - 返信

    Definitely the hardest step (when putting it back together). The three pins were on progressively longer plugs, so I put the shortest one on the left and so on. This helps with getting the right angle. I used my fingers and the spudger to guide them back in. It took me easily 10-15 minutes to do this. The pattern that worked eventually was to first adjust the angle of the pin head so that it's x/y/z axes would line up perfectly with the connection if you are able to bring it together just so. If you're off on any of these while you try to bring it together, you won't be able to just click it down at the end. Good luck!

    Thomas Kunjappu - 返信

    Agreed, for some reason, the middle one was stubborn — and I was worried the amount of force I applied to push it back on was going to break something - but it did pop back on.

    Jer -

    After reading so many reviews on ifixit and other sites regarding the difficulty of replacing my MacBook Pro retina screen assembly, I was a bit nervous. Using this walk through made it super easy. Thank you so much for taking the time to create it!

    cabcpa - 返信

    Removing these 3 tiny cables is completely unnecessary. I removed my fan last week to clean and it slips by these cables. For some dumb reason i wanted to follow this "correct" procedure and now one of the gold connections detached from the wire like it was nothing. Seriously, dont do this. I used a spunger and was very delicate putting it back on... And look what happened. SKIP!

    travismlive - 返信

    Yeah, I agree, just leave the airport card attached to the pins and remove the card itself. Then you won’t have to fuss with these connectors.

    Jer -

    @tmm Your right on! Just finished replacing my right fan and your tip saved me from messing with these tiny cables. I totally understand your frustration as I was too just about to stick to the procedure, but if it’s any comfort your tip helped someone… so don’t be surprised being rewarded by some good karma :)



    There is one thing though I find missing which concerns:

    1)The rubber heat sink cover

    2 The AirPort/Camera cables

    3)The IO board cable

    All these are “glued” to the fan and you need to peel them off gently using the spudger, now while I noticed that some glue remains on each cable so they will kinda stick again, I wonder what kind of glue is this and where one can buy it?

    Itai -

    These individual instructions are re-used across multiple tutorials. If you are replacing the battery, you probably won’t need to remove the three connections from the Airport card; if you are replacing the display, you definitely need to replace them, because they are connected to the display. I just replaced the battery and the display in a single activity, so I pretty much had to remove everything. Also agree with a previous commentor that it’s easier to reconnect the cables before the card is reconnected to the system board.

    ChrisMBP -

    travismlive is right, you do not need to remove these cables or the airport card. Just remove the I/O board cable, undo the screws, and detach the antenna cables from the fan where they are glued with a spudger. Unlock the ZIF-socket and the you can wriggle the fan out. Probably saved my airport card, thanks travismlive!

    Jasper - 返信

    I only successfully reattached 1 of the 3 AirPort cables, I just taped the other two. But the AirPort seems to work fine. Do these also have anything to do with Bluetooth though? I do seem to have trouble with Bluetooth after this operation. In any case, it was worth it... I replaced the screen with a new Apple screen for less than 1/2 the Apple Store wanted! Thanks!

    Douglas Johnston - 返信

    Would soldering them back in place be better than taping? I certainly don't want spare solder on my motherboard, so I figure that'd be a last resort only if I lose AirPort connectivity.

    Douglas Johnston - 返信

    Assembly is a nightmare. If rightmost cable is not connected, BT will not work.

    Radoslaw Przybyl - 返信

    the hardest step is reconnecting the airport antenna cables. just have patience< and use tweezers, spluger and a q-tip.

    Frederick Rae - 返信

    The three cables have different lengths. The longest should to the farthest pin, medium to middle, short to nearest.

    Sam Jomaa - 返信

    Also, having the right tools will make the job really easy. I used a spudger similar to the one recommended on this web site. But i had ordered a complete kit from amazon.com. I did not have any problem removing or re-attaching the pins.

    Sam Jomaa - 返信

    tweezers to hold the cable and the flat part of the spudger to push down on the connectors is the easiest way to re-assemble

    Jon Ocampo - 返信

    Replacing these were the most difficult step I encountered. I finally determined that it took slight back and forth twisting of the cable (from left to right as viewed from above) to cause the connector on the cable to twist into position so it could be pressed down.

    chuck60 - 返信

    I read your step and you are 100% correct. This helped me tremendously. Thanks!

    Achilles -

    Use leverage with tip of a spudger, it’s not that difficult to pry the cables.

    When you reassemble, use a tweezers to put the connector on the right position and push it down with a finger on the other hand.

    Grab the neck of the cable when using a tweezers.

    eskoo - 返信

    Several of the people above mentioned not disconnecting these three wires. You must remove and replace these if you are replacing the entire display which is what these instructions are about. This is the most difficult step as others have noted. Just be careful and make sure you have the cable level before you start pushing down.

    Walt Goede - 返信

    If you are not replacing the display case assembly, you can opt to leave all 3 connectors attached and remove the Airport card with them connected. You will need to carefully manage the card and attached cables so as not to damage them(masking tape) as you proceed with disassembly/reassembly. Step 6 will need to be done carefully (camera cable connector). I did it after step 8. I took a picture of routed cables as well before I removed them from channel.

    lamajr - 返信

    Reassembling: What makes this so hard? From all appearances I’m just pressing a squat sleeve-and-pin connector down onto the female counterpart. It appears to be circular and therefore not needing to be oriented radially in any particular angle. It doesn’t look hard at all! Does anyone understand what the subtlety is that causes everyone so much grief?

    Chapman Harrison - 返信

    Reassembling: as so many as commented, this is incredibly hard - and inexplicably so. From all appearances I’m just pressing a squat sleeve-and-pin connector down onto the female counterpart. It doesn’t look hard at all! But I couldn’t do it.

    Here’s what seems to have worked for me: with my left fingertip on the cable holding the connector directly above the female, I used the spudger to press down the flat back of the connector, initially at the top and then sliding along toward the neck. I used normal pressure, and voila, when I lifted the spudger away the wretched wire didn’t spring up again. It was like it wanted to be rocked, or stroked, once, from top to neck, rather than pressed straight down.

    Chapman Harrison - 返信

    I skipped to step 34. Just pushed up the speakers so that they don’t touch the body.

    Sascha Gl Richy - 返信

    I totally agree, this step is not tagged contrarely to others while it is the most dedicate !!! 1/ A warning should be added (the 31 comments should have done it…) 2/True it is possible to skip this step. Result for me : 1/3 damaged (the left one). Luckily, everything seems to work airport, bluetooth (so far, I haven’t tried Airdrop yet). Really disappointed by this guide is way below the iFixit’s standard…

    Antochny - 返信

    Can anyone help me? I would like to replace my speakers. Which steps can i skip?

    Manzil Monabber - 返信

    I have completed replacing my speakers and this step was not needed at all.

    Manzil Monabber - 返信

  6. スパッジャーの先端を使って、カメラケーブルのコネクタをファン側に押して、基板上のソケットから外します。
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、カメラケーブルのコネクタをファン側に押して、基板上のソケットから外します。

    • 基板に対して平行に押してください。コネクタの一方をまず押してから、反対側を押してください。ソケットには接触しないでください。

    I've broken camera connection socket, is it repairable?

    Sergey - 返信

    Same for me too just take the socket from your broken screen and cut it off and solder it onto the new screen. It was really hard because it's so small but I did it.

    bhayes9614 -

    This is much easier if you do step 7 first so you can pull lightly on the cable and take the tension off the connection caused by the stiff cable.

    mayer - 返信

    This tip worked for me.

    eskoo -

    If you are removing the right fan it is not necessary to unplug the camera cable. You can slip the fan out underneath the cable.

    noahtfu - 返信

    Hi! Camera flex cable is from MBP Retina Mid 2012 & Early 2013. Not Late 2013 :) Edit it please.

    kramerigor - 返信

    the tip of the middle 3 wire was broken on the replacement screen. I didn't connect it and everything seems to work fine, mac hardware test says everything is fine... Is it possible?

    micheleroger - 返信

    Yes. They are wifi antenna cables. Missing one antenna won't affect much, and won't show up in any hardware test.

    Jason Amri -

    Push on the little wings, from right to left.

    Julian Wood - 返信

    This is the hardest part of disassembly! Arguable hardest part of re-assembly too, other than the airport cables

    Jon Ocampo - 返信

    The instruction is not clear to me at all. Frankly the comments mentioning things make me uneasy about proceeding further.

    Ben Moore - 返信

    This came off for me - now my computer’s fan is running high constantly, and “Kernel_task” is using 500% of the CPU even though nothing else is running - what can I do?

    Ryan Brown - 返信

    It is very important to note here that you are NOT pushing up. You are pulling the cable back toward the fan. Doing step 7 first makes that easier. I misunderstood the instruction here (as others seem to have as well) and broke this part. I’m fine with not having a camera on this computer so I’ll leave it or ask my son to help me solder it later.

    Jen Wells - 返信

    The wing closed to the edge of the chassis is completely stuck. I’ve worked on it for an hour. The other wing moves freely. I’m not sure what to do now.

    Charles Lindauer - 返信

    The connector is very tight - I couldn’t even see the join between cable end and the socket and couldn’t see the “ears” on the end of the socket. And, of course, pulling didn’t help. I eventually used tweezers to start things off, gripping on the metal of the socket right where the invisible join was. What a delight to have the join open enough to see! After that, it was easy.

    jerryl - 返信

    Thank You Jerryl - The tweezers did the trick. They want to pop out so you can use your other hand to apply slight downward pressure to keep them in place. Work both ends of the tweezers gently back and forth and you should start to see the gap get bigger.

    Chuck Barton - 返信

    I used tweezers and the spudger. Take the point of the spudger and push on one side of the “dog ear” while supporting the other side with the closed tweezers on the cable side of the dog ear. (Could use a second spudger) work one side the move to the other repeatedly until the connection disconnects.

    This is allows You to push and support simultaneously and minimize the chance damaging the connector.

    Jonathan Dowling - 返信

  7. 右側ファン上にあるゴム製ヒートシンクカバーの下にスパッジャーの平面側先端を差し込みます。 スパッジャーをカバー全体にスライドしながら、接着剤を剥がします。 カバーを持ち上げて、裏返します。これで下にあるケーブルにアクセスできます。
    • 右側ファン上にあるゴム製ヒートシンクカバーの下にスパッジャーの平面側先端を差し込みます。

    • スパッジャーをカバー全体にスライドしながら、接着剤を剥がします。

    • カバーを持ち上げて、裏返します。これで下にあるケーブルにアクセスできます。

    Back (case) side of rubber attachment is flimsy-ish, so need to be delicate when peeling rubber back.

    cahcadden - 返信

  8. 指先を使って、AirPort/カメラケーブルをファンから引っ張ります。 ケーブルはファンに接着剤で固定されています。そのためダメージを与えないように、引っ張る際はゆっくりと丁寧に作業を進めてください。 丁寧にプラスチックのケーブルガイドからケーブルを外します。
    • 指先を使って、AirPort/カメラケーブルをファンから引っ張ります。

    • ケーブルはファンに接着剤で固定されています。そのためダメージを与えないように、引っ張る際はゆっくりと丁寧に作業を進めてください。

    • 丁寧にプラスチックのケーブルガイドからケーブルを外します。

    It's a bit tricky to re-route the cables when you're installing the new display, so pay close attention to how they're originally routed, to make sure you don't pinch them or torque them.

    PriorityMail - 返信

    Do we need to use some adhesive to paste them back?

    Aniket Suryavanshi - 返信

    I used scotch tape to temporarily hold the cables in place until I was ready to reinstall the bottom cover, but I removed the tape at that last step (didn’t want it coming loose later, and possibly obstructing a fan).

    ChrisMBP - 返信

  9. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ゴム製蝶番カバーを左右の蝶番から剥がします。 スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ゴム製蝶番カバーを左右の蝶番から剥がします。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ゴム製蝶番カバーを左右の蝶番から剥がします。

  10. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、I/O ボードコネクターを基板上のソケットから真っ直ぐ引き上げます。再組み立ての際は、このコネクターの先端を先に接続してください。 同じ方法で、I/OボードコネクタをI/Oボード上のソケットから接続を外します。 MacBook ProからI/Oボードケーブルを外します。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、I/O ボードコネクターを基板上のソケットから真っ直ぐ引き上げます。再組み立ての際は、このコネクターの先端を先に接続してください。

    • 同じ方法で、I/OボードコネクタをI/Oボード上のソケットから接続を外します。

    • MacBook ProからI/Oボードケーブルを外します。

    Note that the Mac has been rotated 180º between steps 8 & 9

    peteyx - 返信

    When reinstalling the io board cable make sure it is the correct way round as in the photo, it fits the wrong way round as well, which results in the MacBook not starting at all.

    bitmat23 - 返信

    Sockets are ZIF with releasing levers on the top. If you pull up on the top padding, you will reveal silver lever handels facing the rear of the machine. Pry up on the LEVER to release the pressure, then pull the lever straight up to release the connector from the socket. DO NOT pry under the edge of the connector to remove these or you may damage the ZIF socket. They may have changed these connectors between models, otherwise I don’t know how this was overlooked in the guide.

    hybrid - 返信

  11. 基板上のAirPortカードに固定された2.9 mm T5トルクスネジを1本外します。
    • 基板上のAirPortカードに固定された2.9 mm T5トルクスネジを1本外します。

  12. MacBook ProからAirPortカードを取り出して、AirPortの薄くなっている端を掴んで、基板と平行に引っ張ります。 MacBook ProからAirPortカードを取り出して、AirPortの薄くなっている端を掴んで、基板と平行に引っ張ります。
    • MacBook ProからAirPortカードを取り出して、AirPortの薄くなっている端を掴んで、基板と平行に引っ張ります。

    As others have mentioned, it's not necessary to remove the Airport antenna cables. Leave the cables attached and remove the Airport card.

    Swing the card and the attached cables across the fan.

    stvn chng - 返信

    You may lift a little like few degrees then pull parallel when removing.

    eskoo - 返信

    There might be a touch of adhesive, lift first – a gentle touch with the spudger helps.

    Tristan Harward - 返信

    Yes, lift about 5-10 degrees first, then pull out. If you do not release the adhesive, it may be stuck in place and you could damage the card trying to pull it out.

    hybrid - 返信

  13. Pro Tech ツールキットを含むご注文、もしくは総額 $100ドル以上のご注文については送料無料です。

  14. スパッジャーの先端を使って、右側ファンのリボンケーブルのZIFソケット上の固定フラップを持ち上げて裏返します。 固定フラップの蝶番部分をこじ開けてください。ソケット自体には接触しないでください。
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、右側ファンのリボンケーブルのZIFソケット上の固定フラップを持ち上げて裏返します。

    • 固定フラップの蝶番部分をこじ開けてください。ソケット自体には接触しないでください。

    • 右側ファンケーブルの下に差し込んだプラスチック製の開口ツールをケーブル上部からスライドして、基板から解放します。

    • ケーブルを外す際はご注意ください。基板に多量の接着剤で固定されています。

    I was able to flip the retaining flap while removing the damaged fan but accidentally dislodged after installing the replacement fan. Again, be very careful at this stage. Thankfully my new fan appears to function normally.

    Alvin Chua - 返信

    Easier to do while removing fan.

    mayer - 返信

    The second picture and illustration are not clear enough. The text should say "pry underneath the cable" as I almost broke the fan cable following instruction.

    Kitipong Mork - 返信

    ZIF = Ziero Insertion Force. Once the tiny retaining flap is up, it should slide out easily toward the back. There was no adhesive on my machine, so the cable slid out easily. But be careful if yours is glued down.

    Don Steele - 返信

    I don’t know why, but I could pull the connector out & in without flipping up the flap. And fans are working flawlessly.

    eskoo - 返信

    The pictures were confusing to me so let me add some more context. There is a ZIF socket (Zero insertion force) being addressed in the first picture. This socket has a black top that is currently closed down on the socket. Using your tool you need to lift this flap up to release the wire underneath (This release happens in the second step). Hence only pull up on the black flap enough to make it go from horizontal to vertical (Swing flap). Neither picture shows it in the up position. Step 2, Picture 2, Then gliding your flat spudger, you goal is to lift the wire that was in the ZIF socket out by lightly lifting up on both the wire and the rubber cushion on top of it. Make sure you lift both. You are successful when both are lifted up and out and facing vertical instead of horizontal.

    Frank D - 返信

    Can anyone advise what to do if the ZIF socket pulls up from the logic board? I was gentle with it, but it pulled up anyway. The fan and ribbon are fine, but I’m worried this will require an expensive logic board repair.

    Jaysmi - 返信

    To really see which part of the ZIF socket has to be lifted up you should compare the pictures of step 10 and of step 12, preferably in its original size.

    Then you can see that the inner part of the ZIF has to be moved up, away from the batteries.

    Stephan Yaraghchi - 返信

  15. 基板に右側ファンを固定している次のネジを外します。
    • 基板に右側ファンを固定している次のネジを外します。

    • 4.4 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 3.9 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 5.0 mm T5トルクスネジ(2 mmカラー)ー1本

  16. MacBook Proから右側ファンを持ち上げて取り出します。
    • MacBook Proから右側ファンを持ち上げて取り出します。

    • ファンを再装着する際は、3本のファン用ネジを装着した後にファンリボンケーブルを接続するよりも先にファンを固定してからケーブルを接続する方が簡単です。

  17. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、左側ファンからゴム製ヒートシンクのカバーを持ち上げます。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、左側ファンからゴム製ヒートシンクのカバーを持ち上げます。

    This came of super easy as the glue seemed to have dried up or something of that nature; anyone know if this is an issue?

    Also it seemed like there are clips on sides of the rubber heat sink which I couldn't work out how to clip it back on, so I placed it back where it was after and it seems to be ok; maybe it isn't meant to clip on hard and rather just to be a security measure. Anyone else had this?

    RT0 - 返信

    I had the same experience as you this was super easy to remove as well.

    spearson - 返信

    Glue was long gone. It just flops over by itself.

    Jer - 返信

    I have this feeling that my “noisi fan” was actually the loose end of this rubber cover. So verify that you insert rubber clips back to its slots on under the edge of the sink.

    Albert Stein - 返信

  18. 左側ファンを基板に固定している次のネジを外します。
    • 左側ファンを基板に固定している次のネジを外します。

    • 4.4 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 5.0 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 3.9 mm T5ワイドヘッドトルクスネジー1本

    check if screw marking here is right

    Oleg - 返信

    One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw

    what exactly do you mean by wide head torx screw? Is that another torx screw i should buy?

    best regards,


    sethroot - 返信

    “Wide Head” just refers to the head of the screw being a bit wider than the others. It shouldn’t affect the size of the tool needed. That said, I also was unable to remove this screw with a T5. The screw on mine looked corroded. I ended up using Vampliers (great tool).

    maccentric -

    seems like T5 is the wrong screwdriver for the "3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw"

    ryanbraganza - 返信

    T4 seems to have worked for me

    jonathaniscarroll - 返信

    i tried unscrewing the screw with a yellow circle around it but it is not unscrewing i think it is stripped

    Habib Sy - 返信

  19. スパッジャーの先端を使って、左側リボンケーブルのZIFソケット上の固定フラップを持ち上げます。 蝶番の固定フラップを持ち上げてください。ソケット自体には接触しないでください。 プラスチック製の開口ツールを差し込んだケーブルの上部から左側ファンケーブルの下までスライドして、基板から解放します。
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、左側リボンケーブルのZIFソケット上の固定フラップを持ち上げます。

    • 蝶番の固定フラップを持ち上げてください。ソケット自体には接触しないでください。

    • プラスチック製の開口ツールを差し込んだケーブルの上部から左側ファンケーブルの下までスライドして、基板から解放します。

    • ケーブルを外す際はご注意ください。ケーブルは頑丈な接着剤によって基板に固定されています。必要に応じてiOpenerやドライヤーを使ってケーブルに留められた接着剤を柔らかくするため、ケーブルを温めてください。取り外す作業がスムーズにいきます。

    • デバイスから左側ファンを持ち上げて取り出します。

    • ファンを再装着する際は、ファンのネジを3本取り付けた後に行うよりも、ファンを固定の場所に置いてファン用のリボンケーブルを接続する方法が簡単です。

    a question out of curiosity is it possible to remove that left fan completely and use and external fan instead of it?

    and what is that fan for? is it for CPU or VGA? i noticed someone was referring to that fan as vga's fan.

    Albert Einstein - 返信

    I can't imagine any scenario why one might want to do that Einstein. An external fan on a laptop? Seriously?

    maccentric - 返信

    I would say that my cable was permanently adhered, or at least requires chemistry to remove the adhesive. Definitely check if fan parts are in stock before attempting to remove the cable that doesn't seem to be coming loose from the motherboard.

    orders - 返信

    Couldn’t manage to “flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.”, in fact think I may may broken a piece off. In the end just pulled out the cable by sliding it down and out (maybe I did manage to loosen it after all). Cable didn’t appear to be glued down thankfully.

    Chris McKay - 返信

    Holes on the new fan did not exactly match up and ribbon cable has more tension as a result -

    I had to cut the loop on the mount for the 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw. Not ideal.

    Scott Evans - 返信

  20. 基板にSSDを固定している3.1 mm T5トルクスネジを1本外します。
    • 基板にSSDを固定している3.1 mm T5トルクスネジを1本外します。

    When I got to this step I realized the screw was stripped. I'm unsure if it was stripped by my efforts -- I used the prescribed P5 screwdriver that was also used for the other screws, and the screwdriver still works when putting the lid back on.

    So to extract the stripped screw in Step 5 I've ordered iFixit's Precision Screw Extractor Set.

    Now I'm wondering if I also need to find a replacement screw since I probably won't be able to use the stripped one again after it's been extracted? The screw is called: 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw as per this guide .. the best I can find on eBay are screws called: 1,4 X 3,1 mm Torx T5 or 1,5 X 3,1 mm Torx T5 ... will one of these work? Would I be able to just go to a hardware store and find the proper screw or is it a specialty item?

    Lorte Messenger - 返信

    I'm sure you've long since figured it out, but for the benefit of anyone else reading this, a P5 is not a T5. It's a different screwdriver. The driver for the screws on the outside of the case will not work on the screw holding the SSD. I'm not sure why they left it off in the list of tools at the top.

    Dave Miller -

    The screws on the outside of the case are Pentalobe.

    The screw for the SSD is Torx.

    Both drivers are (now) on the list of required tools.

    (However, my devices both have a T6 head, not T5. May have been after-market.)

    jkgarrett17 -

    For the Macbook Pro Retina 15" Late 2013 models, I've heard the SSD is soldered to the logic board. This guide is for that model, but it doesn't address the soldering issue. Have I just been misinformed on this issue? Has anyone tried it with the late 2013 model yet?

    Elaine - 返信

    The SSD is not soldered to the board. You maybe thinking of the RAM which is soldered. (thank you apple) *dripping sarcasm*

    Ryan Tucker -

    I was needing to send my mid 2014 15" MacBook Pro in for a keyboard repair, and my company IT department shipped me a loaner of the same model except that it had a smaller SSD in it than mine, and said I should swap the SSDs between the two and then send mine back with the smaller drive in it to get fixed. I've been unable to swap the drives because neither mine nor the loaner (which are both the same model) appear to have a T5 screw holding the SSD in place. Both of them appear to have a T4, not a T5 (whatever it is is smaller than a T5 anyway, so I'm guessing it's a T4). So now I'm on hold until I can find a T4 screwdriver.

    Dave Miller - 返信

    OK, got the new tool set, and yes, it really is actually a T5 screw, you just need a really sharp driver. My existing T5 driver was getting a little dull on the tip. So make sure you have a really new/precision T5 driver/bit to use (and again I'll point out that ifixit failed to list this tool in the list of needed tools at the top).

    Dave Miller -

    It's definitely a T5, just takes more control vs only strength. I went left and right in small increments while pushing down to let the screwdriver dig in before slowly being able to loosen it up.

    Toan Tran - 返信

    Both of my A1398 computers (Mid-2012 Retina 15” and Late 2013 Retina 15”) have a screw that my T6 bit fits perfectly. If using a T5 screwdriver/bit makes your screw seem stripped, try the T6.

    (The 2012 was purchased second-hand, and the 2013 was purchased from a dealer known for unauthorized upgrades; it is possible my screws were swapped.)

    jkgarrett17 - 返信

  21. ゆっくりと一番右側のSSDを持ち上げて、基板上のソケットから真っ直ぐスライドして外します。 ゆっくりと一番右側のSSDを持ち上げて、基板上のソケットから真っ直ぐスライドして外します。
    • ゆっくりと一番右側のSSDを持ち上げて、基板上のソケットから真っ直ぐスライドして外します。

  22. スパッジャーの先端を使ってI/Oボードのデータケーブルのロックを持ち上げて外し、バッテリー側に回します。 スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、I/Oボードデータのケーブルをまっすぐ基板上のソケットからスライドして外します。
    • スパッジャーの先端を使ってI/Oボードのデータケーブルのロックを持ち上げて外し、バッテリー側に回します。

    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、I/Oボードデータのケーブルをまっすぐ基板上のソケットからスライドして外します。

    • ソケットは大変デリケートのため、I/Oボードのデータケーブルを上向きに引っ張らないでください。基板に平行してケーブルを引っ張ります。

    This is a difficult step. A few images for the removal of the cable would be good/better

    Robert Jan Lebbink - 返信

    I helped me to use the pliers both to get underneath the canble lock and then push on the wings of the cable.

    Calvin Truong - 返信

  23. 基板にI/Oボードを固定している3.1 mm T5トルクスネジを2本外します。 ゆっくりとI/Oボードを持ち上げて底ケースから取り出します。
    • 基板にI/Oボードを固定している3.1 mm T5トルクスネジを2本外します。

    • ゆっくりとI/Oボードを持ち上げて底ケースから取り出します。

    This did not want to come out. The bottom was really wedged in there good. I had to pry up the bottom part with a screw driver. The funny thing was it was really easy to put back in. *shrug*

    Jer - 返信

    it actually has an extra screw that needs to be removed.

    Reid Rankin - 返信

    Thank you. Removing the screw by the heat sink really helped get this board removed.

    Christopher Hofmann -

    It helped me to push the IO board further into the casing and then lifting.

    Calvin Truong - 返信

    i/o cable was much easier to remove after freeing the i/o board & slightly lifting it. SK

    Stefan Kirchanski - 返信

  24. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、左側スピーカーのコネクターを基板上のソケットから持ち上げて接続を外します。 右側のスピーカーコネクターを基板上のソケットから持ち上げて接続を外します。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、左側スピーカーのコネクターを基板上のソケットから持ち上げて接続を外します。

    • 右側のスピーカーコネクターを基板上のソケットから持ち上げて接続を外します。

    • ケーブルの先端をこじ開けてください。ソケット自体には接触しないでください。ソケットをこじ開けてしまうと基板から外れてしまいダメージに繋がります。

    At this point, it should be noted that the author is using two different logic boards through the procedure. Here, for the first time is the difference between a 2.3 GHz board and the 2.6 GHz board. The audio out socket is integral to the 2.3 GHz board. The 2.6 GHz board has a discrete audio out jack that plugs into the logic board. As the disassembly proceeds, the 2.6 board’s audio outlet is unplugged (Step 26/27 pictures note this, but the author doesn’t. So, as I hoped, the 2.3 GHz board can be replaced by a 2.6 GHz board, IF you don’t want an audio out jack!

    David White - 返信

    Correction. The two boards are NOT compatible. The battery connector and others do not align. A faulty 2.3 GHz logic board is no excuse to get a faster board.

    David White - 返信

  25. キーボードリボンケーブルのコネクター上部を覆っているテープを剥がします。 スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、キーボードリボンケーブルのZIFソケット上の固定フラップを裏返してください。 蝶番の固定フラップ上をこじ開けているか確認してください。ソケット自体には接触しないでください。
    • キーボードリボンケーブルのコネクター上部を覆っているテープを剥がします。

    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、キーボードリボンケーブルのZIFソケット上の固定フラップを裏返してください。

    • 蝶番の固定フラップ上をこじ開けているか確認してください。ソケット自体には接触しないでください。

    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ソケットからキーボードのリボンケーブルを押し出します。

    I can't fit the ribbon cable back in the slot. It was hard to take out a well. Any tips? I'm going crazy

    Jennifer McAuliffe - 返信

    The trick is to align it so that it slides in perfectly straight and level with the surface of the logic board. It's made more difficult by the way the ribbon cable bends around the edge of the logic board, which puts tension on it and makes it harder to align. I usually position it with a finger on each side and then press gently on the top with a spudger or other tool to help level it out. It should slide into place reasonably easily at that point. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    For me the angle of this picture was kind of confusing. Just to make sure it is clear, to anyone else (and they don’t break off the protective plastic piece for the pins like I did), the hinged flap is at the opposite end from the ribbon cable. Where the spudger is in the second picture kind of looks like the middle of the part, but no. From the angle these pictures are taken, it is the plastic piece closest to you. I don’t know why it took me so long to figure this out, and I feel like a bit of an idiot for not doing so more quickly. But hey, maybe reading this comment will help someone not make the mistake I did.

    Parker Young - 返信

    For my MacBook Pro mid 2014, the socket type was a lever. Looking at the battery, carefully lift it so it makes an angle of 90 degrees, then the cable was easily removable.

    Mike Bachman - 返信

  26. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ソケットからトラックパッドのリボンケーブルコネクターをこじ開けます。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ソケットからトラックパッドのリボンケーブルコネクターをこじ開けます。

  27. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、基板上のソケットからキーボード用バックライトのコネクターをこじ開けます。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、基板上のソケットからキーボード用バックライトのコネクターをこじ開けます。

  28. スパッジャーの先端や指の爪先を使って、マイク用リボンケーブルのZIFソケット上の固定フラップを裏返します。
    • スパッジャーの先端や指の爪先を使って、マイク用リボンケーブルのZIFソケット上の固定フラップを裏返します。

    • 蝶番の固定フラップをこじ開けているか確認してください。ソケット自体には接触しないでください

    • マイクのリボンケーブルをソケットから引き出します。

  29. スパッジャーの先端を使ってディスプレイのデータケーブル用ロックを裏返して、DC-In側にこれを回転させます。 ディスプレイのデータケーブルを基板上のソケットから真っ直ぐ引いてください。
    • スパッジャーの先端を使ってディスプレイのデータケーブル用ロックを裏返して、DC-In側にこれを回転させます。

    • ディスプレイのデータケーブルを基板上のソケットから真っ直ぐ引いてください。

    • ディスプレイデータケーブル上を持ち上げないでください。ソケットは大変壊れやすいためです。ケーブルを基板と平行に引いてください。

  30. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、MagSafe 2コネクタ付近のネジ頭上のゴム製キャップを剥がします。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、MagSafe 2コネクタ付近のネジ頭上のゴム製キャップを剥がします。

    This may be a matter of a 2.3GHz vs a 2.6GHz board, but on mine the raised-head screw - and the rubber cover - are on the other side of the black metal whatever it is, about centered relative to the cable connector to its left.

    jerryl - 返信

    same thing for me too.

    William Corwin - 返信

  31. 上部ケースに基板を固定している次の6本のネジを外します。
    • 上部ケースに基板を固定している次の6本のネジを外します。

    • 3.1 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 2.5 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 5.5 mmシルバーT5トルクスネジー1本

    • 5.7 mm T5トルクスネジー2本

    • 3.8 mm シルバーT5トルクスネジー1本

  32. バッテリー付近の端を持ち上げて、MacBook Pro上部に向けて傾けます。 基板の右端に沿って留められたポートにアクセスするため、基板を数ミリ左側にスライドしてください。
    • バッテリー付近の端を持ち上げて、MacBook Pro上部に向けて傾けます。

    • 基板の右端に沿って留められたポートにアクセスするため、基板を数ミリ左側にスライドしてください。

    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、丁寧にMagSafe 2コネクターを基板上の下側にあるソケットから外します。

    I wasn't able to get the magsafe connector off easily; it was easier to just remove the 2 screws holding the magsafe port in place, then disconnect it after the the logic board was removed.

    Derek Gelormini - 返信

    Completely agree. I just did the same.

    ChrisMBP -

    Same here. Removing the MagSafe screws should also be included.

    Christopher Hofmann -

    Agreed, after reading your comment I also simply removed the magsafe connector.

    Bruno Essmann -

    Agree, just did the same. It is safer.

    Pantelidis Pantelis - 返信

    100% agree, recommend updating this article to suggest removing the mag safe connector at the same time and save the hassle and potential damage trying to remove the connect from the logic board. far easier and safer to simple remove the two screws and lift out the mag safe connector at the same time as the logic board.

    calum.h - 返信

    Confirmed, I removed the screws of the magboard so the whole magboard was removed together with the logic board at the same time (MacBook Pro mid 2014).

    Mike Bachman - 返信

  33. MacBook Proから基板アセンブリを取り出します。 基板を再装着する際は、すべてのケーブルを確認して、基板の下に隠れていないか点検してください。 パーツ上部から時計回りに:バッテリー、右側スピーカー、キーボード用バックライト、AirPort/カメラ、ディスプレイ、マイク、左側スピーカー、キーボード、トラックパッド
    • MacBook Proから基板アセンブリを取り出します。

    • 基板を再装着する際は、すべてのケーブルを確認して、基板の下に隠れていないか点検してください。

    • パーツ上部から時計回りに:バッテリー、右側スピーカー、キーボード用バックライト、AirPort/カメラ、ディスプレイ、マイク、左側スピーカー、キーボード、トラックパッド

    A little “scotch tape” can be used to hold the various cables out of the way. Then the replacement board almost falls into place.

    David White - 返信

    Now that I’m done re-assembly, I wish I had paid attention to the second image where all the cables that need to come above the logic board are highlighted in red. I took me three tries of screwing in the logic board in before I properly accounted for all of them

    Albert Einstein - 返信

  34. ヒートシンクと基板を固定している 3.5 mm T5ネジを4本外します。
    • ヒートシンクと基板を固定している 3.5 mm T5ネジを4本外します。

    • ヒートシンクの両側を掴んで基板から持ち上げます。

    • 新しいヒートシンクを再装着する際は、必ずヒートシンク下の放熱グリスも交換してください。

  35. スパッジャーの先端を使って、メタル製固定フラップをHDMIデータトランスファーケーブルから持ち上げます。 ゆっくりと基板上のソケットからHDMIデータトランスファケーブルを真っ直ぐ引いて、接続を外します。
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、メタル製固定フラップをHDMIデータトランスファーケーブルから持ち上げます。

    • ゆっくりと基板上のソケットからHDMIデータトランスファケーブルを真っ直ぐ引いて、接続を外します。

  36. 基板が残ります。
    • 基板が残ります。

    Thanks, this helped me fix a famous news anchor’s computer. :)

    Eric - 返信



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Andrew Optimus Goldberg

メンバー登録日: 2009年10月17日

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Very interesting. Thanks.

Question: is it possible to replace a Early 2013 Logic Board with a Late 2013 Logic Board? To be precise replace a Logic Board with GT 650M with a GT 750M ?

They are both for model A1398, they looks similar for positions of ports but I was not able to find anything that is confirming that they can swapped.

paper ab - 返信

I have this same question! Did you find anything?

vnbiggs -



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