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修理を始めるには

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はじめに

Use this guide to replace the charge port on a LG G6. If you're having charging issues or your microphone isn't working, replacing the charge port is a good place to start.

  1. We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener. Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.
    • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

    • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - 返信

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - 返信

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - 返信

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - 返信

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - 返信

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - 返信

    Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.

    Esmond Pitt - 返信

    My microwave just died, can i heat it with boiled water?

    Alex COLOMBANI - 返信

    Taping as shown is impractical when using hair dryer method—tape simply comes off in the heat and gets in way of getting out the shards on the sides. If the thing wasn’t shattered, then taping unnecessary.

    B. A. Computer Services - 返信

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - 返信

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - 返信

    The “Galaxy S8 Replacement Battery” that you are selling with the kit is the wrong battery, the one that you are selling is a 3000mAh (which is the wrong amperage) as the OEM Samsung Galaxy S8 battery is “Model #: EB-BG892ABA / 4000mAh / Normal Voltage: 3.85V / Charge Voltage: 4.4V / A/S: 1588-3366 4000mAh 15.0Wh

    stevengenat - 返信

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - 返信

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - 返信

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - 返信

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - 返信

    I’ve tried for 2 days and cannot get this to work. I should have just taken it to my local iphone fixit shop. This is a frustrating purchase to say the least.

    jeffrey hill - 返信

    Step 1 should be: now that you have looked over the tools of this repair kit, take your ipad to the nearest repair store and let them handle it. Sure you will waste about $65 by purchasing this kit and the cost of the repair but you will not tear your ipad up and you will have at least 2 days of your life that you can spend time with your family.

    jeffrey hill - 返信

    Just replaced the battery in my iPad mini LTE. Followed the Ifix step by step instructions and they worked very well. The only thing i would change is step 42. You do not have to lift the LCD connector from the logic board. So don’t. It’s an unnecessary step. Other then that all was good. It took me about 2 1/2 hours from start to finish but I took my time and I recommend you take your time also. Very exciting too finish doing it and see it come to life afterwards. Tested everything and everything still works

    Anybody want to buy my iFix battery replacement tool kit only used once cheap?

    kaplang - 返信

    i opener sucks! it’s incapable of heating factory glue enough to take a sealed phone apart and caused my backglass to shatter. i removed it the rest of the way with a soldering iron!

    Elijah Marvin - 返信

    You should, at least, mention which wattage is used for the 30 seconds heating - 750 isn’t enough, obviously. Display shatterered . Thanks.

    dr_baeschtlr - 返信

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - 返信

    At what power (how many watts) does the 30 seconds apply?

    Jarl Friis - 返信

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 - 返信

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 - 返信

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 - 返信

    I just didn’t have any success using the iOpener heated sausage but did eventually get it to work by using a heat gun. I also found a very useful demonstration video which I would thouroughly recommend to supplement this written guide.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6u57jbta...

    martin evans - 返信

  2. Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
    • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

    • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

    • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

    • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

    May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

    yamayhuang - 返信

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - 返信

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - 返信

    I don't own a microwave.

    mdanihy - 返信

    Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

    Jon - 返信

    I don't have a microwave???

    Joe Blow - 返信

    30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

    Sam Stieg - 返信

    can i use just ordinary microwave???

    juneseok kwon - 返信

    If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

    Mohideen Rifay - 返信

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - 返信

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - 返信

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - 返信

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - 返信

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - 返信

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - 返信

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - 返信

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - 返信

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - 返信

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - 返信

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - 返信

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Rapp -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - 返信

    The iOpener is, well, sort of silly. I used it for a while by immersing it in a pot of water regulated at 180 F, which worked, but I ultimately found it far faster to use a hair dryer. I do have an inexpensive IR thermometer which seemed to indicate that the adhesive softened sufficiently when the outer surface of the ipad display edge registered about 140 F. That said, the reflectivity of the outer surface is probably not suitable for reliable temperature indications with an IR thermometer. Just be patient. If you don’t have an IR thermometer, just heat the surface until it is almost too hot to the touch.

    Also note the instructions are VERY different for the WI-FI vs. the Cellular version when attempting to release the adhesive along the bottom (home-button) edge. In one case (on left side) you are to cut towards the center, in the other case you are to cut away from the center. I ended up cutting the right-side cellular antenna cable because I didn’t pay close enough attention here.

    Leon - 返信

    Delete the second paragraph above. I had confused the top and bottom of the ipad. Do pay attention to the direction in which you slide the pick. It MUST be toward edge from camera, not home button. Sorry.

    Leon - 返信

    Great. So apparently i !#^&@@ away $20 on the stupid opener. I might just have to make it explode in slow motion to get my money’s worth

    Val - 返信

  3. Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
    • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

    • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

    Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

    Me berg - 返信

    Can you use an oven instead?

    Rafael -

    Yes, as does a heat gun.

    anonymous 4602 - 返信

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - 返信

    microwave on WHAT WATTAGE ??? 100 W OR 1600 W ??? NOT THE SAME

    Ivor Pocrnja - 返信

    This was not easy. I finally got a pick under the glass of my moto x4 phone after placing my phone on my kitchen hot plate and letting the hot plate go up to about 160F—measuring with a candy thermometer. I was scared of it(either the phone or the iopener) getting too hot—I checked in with another online video and saw they used a 100C heat gun for 2 min on the left side: When I figured that was 212F I got braver with heating the phone.—My screen and display were already broken. I can’t say exactly how long the phone was on the hot plate at 150-160 because the hotplate annoyingly goes on and off not sustaining a stable temperatureprobably a few

    Nahariyah Mosenkis - 返信

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - 返信

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John - 返信

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin - 返信

  4. Apply a heated iOpener to a long edge of the phone for about 2 minutes.
    • Apply a heated iOpener to a long edge of the phone for about 2 minutes.

    • You may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the phone warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.

  5. In the following steps you will be cutting through the adhesive on the rear glass panel. Take note of the following areas:
    • In the following steps you will be cutting through the adhesive on the rear glass panel.

    • Take note of the following areas:

    • In addition to cutting around the edge, there is extra adhesive here that should be cut.

    • Avoid sticking the spudger blade in too far here, to avoid damaging the rear button ribbon cable and chip.

  6. Once the back panel is warm to the touch, apply a suction cup as close to the heated edge of the phone as you can.
    • Once the back panel is warm to the touch, apply a suction cup as close to the heated edge of the phone as you can.

    • The suction cup will not make a good seal on the curved portion of the glass, so avoid putting it on the very edge.

    • Lift on the suction cup, and insert a halberd spudger or opening pick under the rear glass.

  7. Once you have the tool firmly inserted into the glass, reheat and reapply the iOpener to soften the adhesive.
    • Once you have the tool firmly inserted into the glass, reheat and reapply the iOpener to soften the adhesive.

  8. Slide the blade of a Halberd spudger along the side of the phone, separating the adhesive. Slide the blade of a Halberd spudger along the side of the phone, separating the adhesive.
    • Slide the blade of a Halberd spudger along the side of the phone, separating the adhesive.

  9. Repeat the previous heating and cutting procedure for the remaining three sides of the phone. Leave an opening pick on each side as you continue to the next to prevent the adhesive from resealing. Leave an opening pick on each side as you continue to the next to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
    • Repeat the previous heating and cutting procedure for the remaining three sides of the phone.

    • Leave an opening pick on each side as you continue to the next to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

  10. Use the opening picks to slice through any remaining adhesive and open the phone. Remove the glass from the phone.
    • Use the opening picks to slice through any remaining adhesive and open the phone.

    • Remove the glass from the phone.

    • During reassembly, apply new adhesive or high-bond tape if your replacement rear glass does not come with any.

    Which width should have the tape ? Tesa 61395 is proposed with 4 differents.

    CYRIL GERVAIS - 返信

    Which width should the tape have ?

    Tesa 61395 is proposed with 4 different widths (1mm, 2mm, 4mm and 8mm).

    Rgds

    C.

    CYRIL GERVAIS - 返信

    Hi Cyril! The 1 mm width is probably a good size for this repair since it’s mostly used right on the edge.

    Adam O'Camb - 返信

  11. Slide the blade of a halberd spudger into the opening on the edge of the rear button bracket. Careful not to push directly against the rear button ribbon cable, to avoid damaging it. Do not push the spudger in too far, to avoid damaging the rear button.
    • Slide the blade of a halberd spudger into the opening on the edge of the rear button bracket.

    • Careful not to push directly against the rear button ribbon cable, to avoid damaging it.

    • Do not push the spudger in too far, to avoid damaging the rear button.

    • Continue sliding the spudger blade around the bracket to cut all the adhesive holding the bracket to the rear case.

    • Remove the bracket.

  12. Slide an opening pick between the rear button membrane and the rear case. Slide the pick around the edge of the membrane to separate it from the rear case. This might take some force, as the adhesive holding the membrane to the case is tenacious. Pry slowly, to avoid puncturing or stretching the membrane.
    • Slide an opening pick between the rear button membrane and the rear case.

    • Slide the pick around the edge of the membrane to separate it from the rear case.

    • This might take some force, as the adhesive holding the membrane to the case is tenacious. Pry slowly, to avoid puncturing or stretching the membrane.

  13. Use the blade of a halberd spudger to pry the rear button chip off of the rear case.
    • Use the blade of a halberd spudger to pry the rear button chip off of the rear case.

  14. Use an opening pick to pry the contact pad off of the rear case. Remove the rear button assembly. Remove the rear button assembly.
    • Use an opening pick to pry the contact pad off of the rear case.

    • Remove the rear button assembly.

    After completing this step, if the replacement piece does not include the adhesive around the camera, the gold mesh adhesive, the clear middle adhesive, and the adhesive near the bottom corner, it is easy to remove and replace on the replacement part. You may also wish to transfer the QR sticker and barcode label for the IMEI onto the new piece.

    Talon - 返信

    You also must pry off and transfer over to the new back, the camera bracket. It is the big plastic piece that holds the power button in place. Also, the adhesive that is provided with the glass back kit from most vendors is not very sticky and tends to separate. I would recommend a better adhesive, like Tesa tape #61395. Just make sure that you fed it well before you push it down because that tape is extremely sticky and it’s hard to get it back up. It also seals well against moisture. You can use a little heat to activate it and it won’t come apart again unless you want it to.

    Julie - 返信

    This was honestly not a bad repair to do. Took me all of maybe 20 minutes to complete, and that was with heating the pad and getting the pic into the back of it. After that, pretty easy swap. Thanks for the great guide, you saved me $150 deductible!

    TJ Driscoll - 返信

    Is it still waterproof?

    Venuja Gunaratne - 返信

    Hi Venuja, if the adhesive and rear cover are both installed correctly, the phone should be water resistant, though probably not to the same level as before. I wouldn’t trust a repaired phone to be completely waterproof to the manufacturers specifications.

    Adam O'Camb -

    I used this tutorial to first inspect and then replace a faulty fingerprint reader. I noted a couple of things I’d change in this guide, as well as a notes on replacing the fingerprint sensor assembly. In this guide:

    (1) I’d recommend having '''Tesa 61395 Tape''' in 4 mm in addition to a replacement '''rear cover tape kit'''. The areas noted in step 5 are areas where the adhesive is likely going to need to be replaced. Also, the adhesive securing the fingerprint reader will need to be replaced, as it does not stand up well to removal by prying.

    (2) The replacement cover adhesive sold by iFixit is only ~2mm wide. The original is ~ 4mm wide for more contact area. Given the importance of this to the IP68 rating, I’d like to see full thickness adhesive to the original spec. See the picture in step 13, above, to see the dimension on the original adhesive.

    (3) Reassembly is slightly more complex than simply reversing the steps. A bit of direction of reapplying adhesives and re-seating the fingerprint assembly would be useful.

    Taylor Says So - 返信

    Was ist das eigentlich für eine Einheit mit den vier Punkten im unteren Teil des Akkudeckels?

    Wozu brauche ich die? Es gibt auch Ersatzdeckel an denen diese Einheit nicht vorhanden ist. Was fehlt denn dann?

    Uwe Tilgner - 返信

  15. Separate the rear glass from the phone, Remove eleven Philips #00 screws. Remove eleven Philips #00 screws.
    • Separate the rear glass from the phone,

    • Remove eleven Philips #00 screws.

  16. Use a spudger to remove the charging coil from the top left corner, Use a spudger to remove the charging coil from the top left corner,
    • Use a spudger to remove the charging coil from the top left corner,

  17. Remove loudspeaker assembly.
    • Remove loudspeaker assembly.

  18. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector.

  19. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the LCD/Digitizer flex cable.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the LCD/Digitizer flex cable.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the charge port flex cable.

  20. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front camera.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front camera.

  21. Insert a SIM card opening tool into the small hole on the left side of the phone and remove the SIM card tray.
    • Insert a SIM card opening tool into the small hole on the left side of the phone and remove the SIM card tray.

  22. Lift the motherboard out of the phone. Be careful not to snag any of the connectors on the board. Be careful not to snag any of the connectors on the board.
    • Lift the motherboard out of the phone.

    • Be careful not to snag any of the connectors on the board.

  23. Use the flat end of a spudger to remove the adhesive securing the USB-C charge port to the frame. Use the flat end of a spudger to remove the adhesive securing the USB-C charge port to the frame. Use the flat end of a spudger to remove the adhesive securing the USB-C charge port to the frame.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to remove the adhesive securing the USB-C charge port to the frame.

終わりに

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

11 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

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4 件のコメント

Excellent AAAAAAAAA ++++

Jose G Ramirez - 返信

Awesome tutorial, I skipped the from step 11 to 15. No need to remove the button assembly. Just skipped that and reused the back glass panel with no problems. Thank you!

Ben Fischer - 返信

I can’t get the back off. I’ve tried so hard but it wont come off. I pulled so &&^&^$^ hard i cracked the back but couldnt get the &&^&^$^ back off wtf

Pengo The Penguino - 返信

Hi , I have replaced the port but usb comm still not working. QC3 not working because it also works with working usb comm. I have tried many original cords and chargers.

malikzee111 - 返信

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