It’s possible that the cable you’re using isnt being read by the controller. I’ve found only one brand of Micro USB cable that reliably works with my Dualshocks, and that’s the BlackBerry Branded USB cables.
Have you gone in with a multimeter and tested for continuity between the power switch, the battery, and the charge port? Im not too well-versed with how the board is wired up in these models, but I would recommend checking to make sure that the battery is even being recognized. if it’s anything like the chromebooks that I fix daily as a result of my job, I would recommend just charging it all night long and coming back in the morning. Some of the batteries come almost dead and as a result take a day or two to regain their composure so to speak.
Hi. As far as I know, the RAM in iPhones is presoldered and as such is impossible to replace unless you are an AASP or possess very expensive repair tools. You might be able to get another motherboard off of eBay or similar, but you would probably be better off just getting a new iPhone.
This is a total shot in the dark, but have you tried to reset your SMC? Also what happens when you remove the battery and connect the charger, and then run off of the AC adapter alone? Does this solve anything? Basically if you can isolate the issue down to either the battery, the logic board, or the SMC, then we’d all be closer to figuring out what the issue is. I’ve never encountered anything like this, however, so I’m not sure how to help other than just isolating the problem and narrowing down the culprit.
Is there a way you can post a picture of the affected device? It would be more helpful to see what you’re talking about if we could physically see it. Short of that, I would recommend that you just take a piece of electrical tape or something like that and put it over the hole. It’ll hold just fine till you can replace the front faceplate or whatever. Unless the hole was bored into the screen itself, you should be able to just hide it and/or forget about it.
Unlikely, but you may want to open the thing up and check for dust and stuff in the fans, making the fan read incorrectly. I believe that there is also a fan controller app for macs that you can install to regulate your fans on the fly. Other than that, I would recommend running ASD (Apple Service Diagnostics) on it and seeing what it comes back with. Worse comes to worst, you could always take it into an independent repair shop nearby and see what their take on it is. (Use the Apple Store as a last result; they’ll make you pay 20x more for what actually needs to be done) :)
Well, I have to ask the obvious. (1) Did you have any kind of water spill on the machine? was it subjected to an abrupt change of temperature? (Hot to cold or cold to hot)? Was it subjected to shock or heavy objects being placed on it? (2) It sounds like your main logic board is just dead. This might have been caused by any of the above, but my guess is that somewhere along the line the charge port shorted causing a short to the battery. (which is why when you charge it gets hot). (3) After the short, the battery would have just died from not being used over time, even like over a night or something. (4) There could also be an issue with the power button circuit (were any other keys damaged in the process)? Sometimes two keys share the same circuit, meaning that if one doesn’t work, the other won’t either. I know apple is notorious for having random keys share the same circuit as the power button, killing the machine prematurely. (5) Have you tried going into the machine and jumpstarting it? (Shorting the...
You should be able to force it into developer mode by doing the following: use the "3 finger salute", (esc+refresh+power) and follow the steps to remove OS verification, etc. It will then restart on its own (Dont force restart!). It will likely say something like "dev mode has been blocked by administrator". Keep repeating step 1 till this works. Alternatively, replace the motherboard using another iFixIt guide. Hope this helps!