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While replacing the LCD panel in my iPod Touch 2nd generation I desoldered the home button spring off from the logic...

Anyone knows where I could get the service manual or a take apart guide for the Canon SD780 IS ? I need to replace the...

This is my daughter's digital camera. It now has a lens issue and I'd like to take it apart to check the lens mechanism. I...

Please post here your individual experience on this subject.

My daughter's iPod Nano 4th gen made a trip to the washing machine. I opened it to make sure the internal parts would dry...

MacBook Pro 13" Unibody 2.66Ghz What is the exact procedure to take off a keyboard key on my machine ? From which side of...

I agree with Dan that you should replace the old HD cable with a new one. This MBP 13” 2012 has two problems, the HD cable and the lower ram slot. I would try to remove the ram stick in the lower slot and try the machine to see if there’s a gain in performance. When swapping a new hard drive it’s time to also replace the cooling paste under the heatsink, clean the fan and the fan output fins of the heatsink. If the Macbook runs too hot you’ll lose performance. Did you do this cleaning ?

There's a documented ram slot issue on the MBP 13" 2012. The lower slot often fails. If you check inside your back panel you'll see that Apple installed a pad over the ram slot to compress it. If your MBP works normally only using the upper slot then install a 8gb ram stick in it and use it as is. Other option is to replace the logic board.

Sorry but there was no Macbook Pro 13” 2010 i5, only Core2Duos. Download free app Mactracker for more infos. The only i5 or i7 Intel processors in 2010 were inside the Macbook Pros 15” and 17” models.

For those who have GPU issues with the Macbook Pro 2011 15” or 17” there’s a way to disconnect the NVIDIA GPU and only run with the Intel integrated GPU. You can solder a small board on the logic board rom chip, this product is the Tiresias GPU Killer. That will permanently desactivate the NVIDIA GPU. I tried it on the 15” model motherboard 820-2915 and on the 17” model 820-2914 with success. Video out will also be desactivated after the job is done but the computer will work just like the MBP 2011 13” who doesn’t have the NVIDIA GPU. http://www.cmizapper.com/products/tiresi...-gpukiller.html

search for your board number somewhere on the logic board. It should read 820-xxxx. With the board number make a search on google to find the board schematic, it’s a pdf file. Once you have the schematic open the file and make a search for C5501 and C5511 (not sure of the last one). Now you’ll see the two capacitors description and if you see “NO STUFF” it’s indicate that the two components are no present. If they should be there you’ll have the capacitors values so you’ll know which capacitors you need to find to replace them.

Maybe you could use a multimeter and read the voltage on the pins of the cable that connect to the battery. I think 3 power pins carries 12v and 2 data pins 3.42v, other pins are ground (someone could correct me if i’m wrong for the voltage). So if you have voltage on theses pins the logic board should be OK. Would be useful if you can find online the schematic and boardview files for your logic board.

There’s a documented problem with the MBP 15” 2010 logic board. Capacitor C9560 is failing on theses boards causing kernels panics, glitches on the screen, black or white screen on start up etc. Just make a search on Google for “820-2850 C9560”. The capacitor must be replaced with a reliable one.

I know it’s an old post but I think I can help on this one for those who have this problem. Near of the LVDS connector there are 6 resistors in line called “led return” one to six. With the boardview file and the board schematic of your board check the value of these resistors. Could be one out of specs that’s causing the issue.

External monitor with a HDMI port , HDMI cable, internal or external SSD drive with a bootable OS. If the screen is removed from the MBP you’ll need a wireless antenna to connect to the wifi card. Maybe you will also need a USB keyboard and mouse (wireless if you prefer) if you don’t use the Mac keyboard and trackpad. A USB hub could also be useful to connect extra stuff to the computer.

You have to inspect your board carefully with special attention to the areas where liquid passed by. A microscope is a great tool for such an inspection. Check the capacitors, resistors, ICs pins and traces to theses components. Solder should be shiny, if it’s black the pads under the component could be eaten by corrosion causing an interruption in the circuit electrical flow so you have to repair that. IMO if you don’t have the tools and the expertise to do this kind of job it’s better to find a good tech that will do it for you.

I found a good way to remove the LCD without breaking it. Once you finish to clean up around the LCD just lift a bit one of the white metal backing plate and insert in the gap a plastified playing card under le LCD and slowly make your way to the center of the LCD. Repeat on the other side and the LCD will lift up intact.

to remove and put back the ribbon cable in its slot I use a piece of scotch tape. Easier to remove or insert the cable in the slot.

Since this kind of connector and very fragile and easy to damage even with a spudger I use a needle that I insert in the front side of the connector, between the connector and the socket and only apply a little pressure while lifting up the needle. The connector will then pop up from one side. Repeat the procedure for the other side. With this method it's impossible to damage the connector. I adopted this method after ruining two or three connectors using the spudger.