Ideally Dust Cleaning roller and a dry (water / chemical free) microfiber cloth for the fingerprints. The Dust Cleaning roller can be less adequately be replaced by a good air punch from a compressor (not from a can since they it could leave marks).

To answer various “will this work with my X iMac”: It should work with any iMac that has an optical drive.

The one without seems to have less problems with dust sneaking between the LCD assembly layer.

Mind that even-thought these iMac are 8 years-old and more as long as they have a core i5 or i7 they are pretty descent hardware for most home users. Fit them with an SSD and maximum RAM and they’ll surely do the job another couple of years.

PS: To bypass iTunes to sync your iOS devices you may consider using iMazing.

On my Dremel 4000 (220V) one of the passivated rectifier CS1M (the one with label D5) exploded. Looking at pictures of the electronic assembly I could guess that it’s the same rectifier as the 2 others D1 and D6.

Would this passivated rectifier CS1M be replaceable by a general purpose one such as 1N4007 ?

The blue wire has a seat below the brushing casing of the Dremel bottom assembly (you can see a little notch). Thus place the blue wire before putting back the stator…

From iFixit iMac 21,5 teardown step 7 I see couple of screws around the backside shield (never had to clean one)…

However, before openining any Late 2012 and later iMac consider buying adhesive strips with opening wheel (way easier than guitar picks to get the screen out and you don’t need a heat gun).

Take extra care next near the top center part (you don’t want to brake the camera cable)…

I'd say no because the LCD is thinner but it's possible we can still disassemble it. From my experience some of those display may have "ghost" / "burned into" / persistent image that sticks to the screen… http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/why-do-imag....

Late answer but might still be usefull for others : I don't know except the LCP panel is fragile thus I'd consider trying with 4 hands and a air compressor (no bottles/cans as the gas my leave traces). Step 0 on every fix should be "work in a as clean as possible evironement".

Try some how to have the room you're working in as if it was a clean room (wet dishtowels are a pretty good seal and dust filter). You want to dettach dust particles from the assembly and have them fly far away from it without new one sticking back. You may also try to use "3M Hand-Masker Dirt Catcher Super Sticky Mat" (available on Amazon if not on iFixit) in the air-stream, surely dust particles will fancy it better than the LCD assembly.

Sorry about this I'm adding a warning on Step 5 to lift gently and no more than 90° hoping this might prevent others to have the same issue.

P.S. the LCD has an electronic board some times people have flickering issues after the display warmed-up. Thus changing that "inner-board" might solve their issue ⇒ after you receive your new LCD, try to sell the old display "inner-board" as well as the connectors…

If the backligt is ok but no image check connections :

— To the logic board ;

— Then underneath the protective cover on the top of step 2 image…

If the backlight is not ok check the connector and the cable at the lower right corner of step 2 image.

Beware that if you have bended the LCD you might have damaged it.