I believe they are not interchangeable. However if you have both taken apart just check if they fit, im not sure if they used the same triggers but if they did there should be no reason they wouldn’t interchange.

Check if the Throttle body is dirty, if it is driven on shorter trips it can have build up that would cause that rough idling, though im not sure the slowing and stalling is part of that problem but worth a check and shouldnt take more than 15 minutes to check.

Sounds like the motor is working fine, perhaps while you have it apart follow the mechanical connections up to the source of the problem? Might help to stick in one of the mixer things and spin it manually to see where it isn’t connecting.

No the switch lite is significantly different physically. Parts will not line up or be interchangeable between the two. Only compatible swaps I know of is switch v1 and v2.

Likely a bad battery/bad charging port. Did it feel like it died rather fast last time you used it? if so mostly likely both, however if your phone is not charging at all; try different wires and wall plugs otherwise will probably need to replace the charging port.

It seems if it were the game it would at least try to show and image for powering on then fail and stop showing an image, if it isnt showing an image outright it could be the internal connection to the av ports on the back have given out, try opening it and looking for rust or water damage, lets just say air moisture does more damage than we may realize sometimes. If those look all fine and dandy you may have a deeper problem within the motherboard or the graphics on the console itself.

Sounds like the battery has completely given out so it no longer holds enough power to do basic functions, if it were the charging port it wouldnt hold the logo up anyway, but perhaps the ipod requires a little more while powering on and just powering with a cable may not be enough. I’d try sourcing a battery for it and replacing it, shouldn’t be too expensive.

Could be different but this sounds very familiar, I once had my car show the battery light then stall out seconds later and powered on a couple more seconds then wouldnt even jump start. Likely a bad alternator judging by the battery light. Or if you havent replaced the battery in a while it could be a bad battery, However if it shut off whilst driving its more likely than not the alternator as even with a bad battery a car can be jump started, batteries tend to only do the starting and some of the low power stuff during a drive, the alternator is able to keep the car powered completely on its own whilst driving. Did you hear a high pitched noise almost like an airplane taking off coming from your engine bay (not a squeaky belt) thats a sure sign of a bad alternator. I’d start there, best of luck :)

So from my self repair experience you may have a dirty Throttle Body, or possibly just broken altogether. It’s easy enough to diagnose yourself, almost as simple as replacing a headlight. You’d start by finding the air line that goes from your air filter to the top of the engine, in between along that air flow tube you should see an aluminum body with what looks like a body pack attached, remove the air flow tube to expose that being careful to not let anything fall in there and check if the valve (brass spinning disc that controls the amount of air flow allowed into the engine) is filled with gunk or if the aluminum body inside has any gunk that could impede the free movement of the valve. if that is the case DO NOT FORCE THE VALVE TO MOVE, this could ruin some calibration with your acceleration that would take recalibrating. You’ll want to find a throttle body cleaner to use on that and very carefully with minimal movement to the valve itself spray on the cleaner (make sure its absolutely meant for...