I'd recommend opening up the transmission housing, but actually it will slide in and out without opening it up. But its worth it just to grease up and its only 4 screws.

Careful when you remove the plugs on the power board, I had one where the solder joints broke from the board and the connector was still attached but no longer electrically connected. Try to get a spudger or anything to help pry connectors off, when pulling, pull straight out do not wiggle connectors.

I was able to fix the board by resoldering large globs on the back in to get it reconnect to the traces... Its working for now and if I had to I cut scrap off more of the PCB to reveal fresh traces to connect to but better to not have to do this.

Replacing the motor fixed the burning electric smell coming from the old one.

To be honest I am not sure I would trust waterproofing of device post repair unless you fully remove the prior adhesive (PITA) but for a product to reattach I think I would use "Kaisiking 2mm LCD Repair Tape".

I am currently reusing the weakened adhesive, it holds the screen in and I never cared for the waterproofing to begin with.

The sealing tapes is on the edge of the aluminum backing, the screen holds snug against that, you need to ensure no gaps if you want to make water tight

See black bars and rectangles of this picture to understand where the adhesive strip is https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/...

So you can do this without removing the glove box, bit of a pain but much easier. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7z5HufXU...

While removing h glove box might give you better access and enable you to seat the filter betterI would do the faster mehod.

Agreed, no need to pull battery to pull the wifi card, make sure you are ground and you are good to pull and replace.