The symptoms you’ve described do sound like a liquid spill related problems, so before going to Apple I would still open my A1708 and check all those water indicators inside just to be sure that it is not it. The Keyboard replacement will fix only keyboard (including its cable) related problems, but it is worth a try. Though, if there was a spill, there could be a list of other issues manifesting itself just like that. I would look for any sign of oxidation on the motherboard and decide what to do next from the results of that inspection. Good luck

Dear, oh dear! ))) OK let’s start from your header - yes, according to the link you’ve provided that particular assembly includes the FaceTime HD Camera but will the assembly fix your problem? That is the question )) Can I ask why do you believe that you “fried your camera circuitry”? Normally there should not be a problem if you disconnect and reconnect your cables as you described, unless … there are quite a list of possibilities, almost none of which, unfortunately, could be fixed with just the purchase of new display assembly ))) I know it all does sound a bit anecdotal, but I would suggest you to carefully redo the disconnecting, verifying all the connectors and resitting them all again. Please share the results of your operation, and we will go from there. Resitting will definitely not fix those horizontal lines, for that you will need a new good assembly (which will be dead in the next few months), but let’s see if we can at least have a camera back. Good luck.

There are quite a few possibilities for that, but… Well, let’s assume that since you spent the time on writing your statement, you still count on some feedback, so Most probably your battery data cable is either disconnected or broken or deteriorated due to… what? All those small details could have pointed us in some definite direction, yet you haven’t provided any. If you tried all the suggestions already, then it is a time to give a try to the battery data cable (821-00614-05) exchange. It would help if you could source this cable from someone who could certify it’s working state, so to eliminate the case of non-working cable on top of the case of non-working battery. Then if you share the results of your operation we will be able to help you further, or just to say congrats. Good luck.

imho making the A1708 to live longer just because it’s cute makes no sense. and repairing it make no economical sense anymore. so… if you still need a working horsy - just remove the display assembly and output video on the external monitor. yes, i know how radical my solution may sound )) this way you will protect the display assembly for sure and on the way you will also discover that heat buildup at the top part of the top case is mostly due to the T-CON board itself and not from the backdraft from the heatsink, nor bad thermal design of other parts, nor intel’s fault etc. etc. added plus is that the ventilation of the main compartment will be much better without a display assembly than with it. if you know that you can reattach you perfectly good monitor in just 20 minutes top, why not?

Some hub/adapters are just finicky and refuse to work no matter what. Some hub/adapters will work after Macbook will first go to sleep with the hub/adapter plugged in, enabling the video output on waking up. If you disconnect such a hub/adapter from the Mac you will most probably need to repeat aforementioned procedure again. And some hub/adapters will just work no matter what, including the one made by Apple itself.

Unfortunately most of those stories range from bad to very bad. There are almost nothing to recover in most cases of water damage and there are too many variables to consider for most DIY projects. At the current state of the market it would be advisable to invest in working second hand A1708 than in repairing a water damaged one economically speaking. Having a working A1708 will give you opportunity to test components of the water damaged unit and sell those parts that are still operational if you still want to get some DIY going. If you careful enough the risk of damaging working A1708 with those test parts could be minimized.

Hope you figured it out but if not - your Mac most probably alive. No the difference in the voltage should not do any harm unless it delivered in spikes of enormous amplitude which should be rare even in Philippines Could you please precise with what key combo have you tried to restart? Have you tried Control+Option+Shift+Power button? If not - try it. Same key combo as for SMC reset but one quick press. If it is up and running - great. If not - try to do SMC and PRAM reset and see what’s happening. Normally it should fix your A1708. If not - I would first check the power supply module whether it is working with something else. If it is working and your Macbook Pro still show no signs of life then the deeper investigation will be necessary. Let’s hope it will not be that serious. Please post your findings and we will proceed from those.

I would check if that Fan Control software did not hijack the control of the fan, then perhaps will try to use another fan control software. since the readings for all sensors looks normal it will most probably solve conundrum with those 1200 rpm. As for those lines - most probably the case of that famous here "delamination issue" of the T-CON board, though, are you sure your Macbook haven't been in the warm and humid place before? I mean even if you have to go to Apple with this problem to replace the display assembly, I would still suggest checking the water indicators inside your Macbook first.

Can you first try the HUB with the video output and external monitor? If it works then most probably it is T-CON board that is dead, not your motherboard, which is kind of good news, right? You could still use your Mac with the external monitor, or invest in the display assembly swap.

You’ve described exact symptoms of several cases I had and the truth is - it is more probable that those are the problems that are related to the HDMI output of your Thunderbolt 3.0 HUB, NOT those motherboards. I have found that sometimes, mostly with those third party USB-C hubs, all that you need to do is to wait till your Macbook go to sleep turning the monitor off, and then, after waking up, your HUB’s HDMI will be recognized and used. If you will not disconnect that particular HUB from your Macbook, then it’s HDMI output will work from now on all the time. Sometimes you also have to power the HUB up to get the HDMI output, especially when there are power consuming devices connected to your HUB and in those cases where you have no valid battery and use 61W power adapter plugged in. All those things depend really mostly on on the particularities of your HUB. For the slower boot “issue” I agree with Isaac - SMC and PRAM resets would most probably fix that.