はじめに

交換する新しいディスプレイアセンブリに正面カメラとセンサーアセンブリ、それディスプレイのEMIシールド が付いている場合はこのガイドをご利用ください。必要な手順は古いディスプレイアセンブリを取り外し、ホームボタンを新しいディスプレイアセンブリを交換します。

もし、交換するディスプレイにこれらの部品が含まれていない場合は、ここから、このガイドの長編版を参照ください。

いずれの場合においても、Touch ID 機能(指紋認証)を保持するためにオリジナルのホームボタンを新しいディスプレイに取り付ける必要があります。

フロントパネルアセンブリのケーブルブラケットを交換する際もこの手順を参照してください。

iPhoneを分解する前に、バッテリーを25%以下まで消費してください。充電されたリチウムイオンバッテリーは、もしアクシデントで穴が空くと引火したり爆発する恐れがあります。
  • iPhoneを分解する前に、バッテリーを25%以下まで消費してください。充電されたリチウムイオンバッテリーは、もしアクシデントで穴が空くと引火したり爆発する恐れがあります。

  • 分解する前に、iPhoneの電源をオフにします。

  • Lightningコネクターの両隣にある、iPhone下部の側面に留められた2本の3.4 mm P2ペンタロープネジを取り外します。

Hi, just got the repair kit that came with IPhone 6S battery. I felt that there’s no explanation on which tool to use to remove the two 3.4mm P2 Pentalobe screws. It’s not helpful just to say “Remove the two 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone, next to the Lightning connector. “. It’s more important to explain how and what tool to use. The repair tool kit tools were not marked at all and it’s not right to assume that people know which tool or part to use. Please kindly address this issue. Thanks. Janet

Janet Monaghen - 返信

@beingchen For the P2 pentalobe screws you should use the driver bit marked P2. Might be a little hard to see but it’s there, etched into the side of the bit.

Jeff Suovanen -

It’s very clear which tool you need. As it says these are “3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws” - so you need a 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screwdriver…

alexanderbrix1987 - 返信

Just a P2 driver—3.4 mm is the length of the screw.

Jeff Suovanen -

6sのディスプレイを開口するにはディスプレイ周囲の薄い接着タブを剥離しなければなりません。作業前に接着タブの交換用接着タブを用意してください。接着タブを交換しなくても修理は可能で、おそらく機能性の違いを感じることはありません。
  • 6sのディスプレイを開口するにはディスプレイ周囲の薄い接着タブを剥離しなければなりません。作業前に接着タブの交換用接着タブを用意してください。接着タブを交換しなくても修理は可能で、おそらく機能性の違いを感じることはありません。

  • 吸盤カップをディスプレイアセンブリの左側下部の端に当てます。

    • ホームボタンの上に吸盤カップを取り付けないでください。

Hello, I was wondering if there was a guide of how to replace the adhesive strips, thank you

Pablo Reyes - 返信

The suction cup will not work if you have a shattered screen. I put a tip of an exacto knife between the glass and side frame above the power connector, carefully pried up then used the spluger to pry the rest of the way up.

johnmurphyjr - 返信

Tape will work as well in order to create a smooth surface

Nick Stine -

Even tape didn’t work on my first shattered screen 6S disassembly. Had to reset to the exacto/thin blade technique.

Peter Bovey - 返信

For me, it seemed like I only had one shot at the suction cup. It stuck on firmly the first time, but I noticed in the instructions that it was placed more on the side. I detached my suction cup and repositioned it and now it doesn’t stay (sucked) on. Hmmm.

Frank Terence - 返信

Can you use the iSclack opener to open the iPhone 6s?

Joe Koffee - 返信

The iSclack is helpful, although you have to use it a bit differently than you would on, say, a 5s or 6. The iSclack alone isn’t strong enough to pop the display open, because of all the adhesive around the perimeter of the 6s display. But you can use it to lift the display just enough to get a tool in there and start cutting the adhesive. Basically, the iSclack does the same job as the suction cup shown here, with maybe a bit less fuss.

Jeff Suovanen -

吸盤カップを均一の強さで持ち上げます。その際、フロントパネルとリアケースの間に小さな隙間を作ります。 時間をかけて丁寧に、均一の力加減で持ち上げます。このディスプレイアセンブリは他のデバイスに比べてしっかりと接着されています。
  • 吸盤カップを均一の強さで持ち上げます。その際、フロントパネルとリアケースの間に小さな隙間を作ります。

    • 時間をかけて丁寧に、均一の力加減で持ち上げます。このディスプレイアセンブリは他のデバイスに比べてしっかりと接着されています。

  • 強く引っ張りすぎるとディスプレイアセンブリにダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。ディスプレイアセンブリとリアケースの間に、小さな隙間を作るぐらの力加減で持ち上げます。

No, really. Do this on a table and use less strength than you think. If you open the display the whole way at this step you can easily rip the home button connections and one of several display connections at the top. <— too much experience... :(

chuymatt - 返信

Wow, that was tough. Patience, patience, patience. Did not use the iOpener, just firm and consistent pulling with the phone on a flat surface. When the suction cup comes off... clean the display surface and go back at it. I did use the pointed end of a spudger inserted into the headphone jack to hold down the bottom case whilst I pulled on the suction cup. Once there was sufficient room (see next step) you can just get the spudger (flat end) to slide in slightly.

plisi - 返信

If you're lifting up on the glass, how are you supposed to hold the rest of the phone down? Is it by holding the camera end down with the side of your hand and rotating your hand, or using your other hand (not pictured) on the edges (seems very difficult), or using a spudger in a jack?

Bryan - 返信

On the 6s, which has an annoying black adhesive strip holding the display assembly on, I use the iSclack to loosen a very small area near the home button then insert a thin spudger and gently twist it a bit to release the adhesive. Do this around the bottom and both sides of the phone to release the screen. I usually have to break some of the adhesive strands when the opening is big enough.

scentaur - 返信

My spudgers just too thick for initial insertion. In the end, fingernail on my thumb got me started, and I was able to get plastic picks in there to work it. The microwavable iOpener gel strip really helped.

Heidi Moser - 返信

Thanks plisi, your comments are helpful. I had to apply pressure several different times. Didnt realize until about the seventh time applying pressure that what I was doing was slowly loosening the adhesive. Patience is truly the key with this step. You may not think you're progressing but it's slowly prying away.

amylofton - 返信

What happens if the cup won't even stick to the display because it is cracked and it will not hold air near the bottom of the phone?

Jaredrett - 返信

hey everyone, i just did my first iphone 6S display...after many 5, 5c, and 5s iphones...just keep trying and carefully insert the spunger where they said...right around the headphone jack. The black adhesive makes it very tough to get it off unless you work at one corner. Be careful...but you can do it! ;-)

David Althaus - 返信

Use a razor, and go along the outside of the phone carevilly using the razor as a spudger. it will efficiently cut and weaken the adhesive while spudging the screen away from the frame. only takes 15 mins.... Use a workbench razor, not a flimsy one. If possible, use one where one side of the razor has a gaurd on it for better grip. Take it slow and try not to scratch the frame. Lots of pressure and patience is key!!!

Goodluck!!

-J

Jaredrett - 返信

The first time you pull it apart there's black glue tape that you'll have to compete with to get it open. Be careful

Jeff - 返信

Use a hairdryer about 2-3 inches from the phone on high heat for about a minute, moving the dryer the entire time. The phone opened for me in less than a minute after trying for several minutes without heating up the phone.

Todd Leach - 返信

Careful ..delicate work. I also used a hot hair dryer around the perimeter for just a couple minutes to help loosen the adhesive bond. I then used my sadly short finger nail to help loosen the edge. I placed dental floss under the corner & carefully lifted the display very very slowly. This worked within about 3 minutes. As mentioned earlier the adhesive used in the iPhone 6s is very strong but this routine worked like a charm & was quick!

Mary Blocher - 返信

Much easier to do using the Spudger that is provided in the Pro Tool Kit. It has a thinner fin type head. The Spudger provided in this repair kit is definitely too thick and makes it far more difficult.

Tyler Brady - 返信

The spudger is too thick and the glue is too strong. Pulling up broke the glass below the power button. Now I am out $200 for a repair, plus a battery. Bummer. I am VERY good at repairing things. The adhesive on this is very very strong. The pentalobe tip that they send with the kits not milled well and I had to take a file and flatten the tip to get it to work - it is not finished well at all. I used the kit for the iPhone 6 for my Mom and had no problem. I am 51 and have been fixing things since I was very young.

greghabiby - 返信

Well, I shattered my screen trying to do this. So now I need a battery and screen repair. Not happy.

Carolann Parran - 返信

ヘッドホンジャックのちょうど真上、ディスプレイの下に隙間ができます。この箇所がデバイス本体を開口する際に最も安全な場所です。 スパッジャーの平面側先端を、ヘッドホンジャック上部のスクリーンとリアケースの隙間に差し込みます。
  • ヘッドホンジャックのちょうど真上、ディスプレイの下に隙間ができます。この箇所がデバイス本体を開口する際に最も安全な場所です。

  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を、ヘッドホンジャック上部のスクリーンとリアケースの隙間に差し込みます。

WARNING: easy to stretch/ruin the adhesive

As you proceed, know that you must keep ALL of the adhesive stuck to the phone. If any stays stuck to display, it can become permanently stretched as you are prying and lifting. Then you’ll need to buy the replacement adhesive, once it’s back in stock!

Jason - 返信

If you’re opening the phone at all, you’re compromising the adhesive. There is absolutely no way to somehow open it perfectly so you can re-use it. Fortunately, it’s cheap and fairly easy to replace—and not even that critical on the 6s series anyway, since it’s not doing any real waterproofing.

Jeff Suovanen -

フロントパネルアセンブリとデバイス本体の間に作った隙間を広げるためにスパッジャーをひねりながら動かします。 フロントパネルアセンブリとデバイス本体の間に作った隙間を広げるためにスパッジャーをひねりながら動かします。
  • フロントパネルアセンブリとデバイス本体の間に作った隙間を広げるためにスパッジャーをひねりながら動かします。

No need to turn the spudger full 90°. Just turn it a little.

Martin Born - 返信

ディスプレイアセンブリとリアケースの左側にスパッジャーの平面側先端を差し込みます。 接着面を切り込みながらクリップを外していき、スパッジャーをデバイス本体の左側からの上部に向かってスライドします。
  • ディスプレイアセンブリとリアケースの左側にスパッジャーの平面側先端を差し込みます。

  • 接着面を切り込みながらクリップを外していき、スパッジャーをデバイス本体の左側からの上部に向かってスライドします。

I’ve found it very easy to open the phone with one of the blue opening picks.

Just slide it along the left and right side of the display.

Martin Born - 返信

Excellent idea. No matter which tool you use take your time so not to damage the display assembly further. Even a cracked screen is a great test tool or spare to use while doing other repairs when it still comes on.

Bryan Solo -

スパッジャーを一度抜いて、最初にスパッジャーを差し込んだ位置、本体の下部端に再度差し込みます。 次はスパッジャーをデバイス本体下部の右側に向かってスライドします。
  • スパッジャーを一度抜いて、最初にスパッジャーを差し込んだ位置、本体の下部端に再度差し込みます。

  • 次はスパッジャーをデバイス本体下部の右側に向かってスライドします。

続けてスパッジャーを右サイドに沿ってスライドしながら圧着剤を切り込み、ディスプレイのクリップをiPhoneから外します。 続けてスパッジャーを右サイドに沿ってスライドしながら圧着剤を切り込み、ディスプレイのクリップをiPhoneから外します。
  • 続けてスパッジャーを右サイドに沿ってスライドしながら圧着剤を切り込み、ディスプレイのクリップをiPhoneから外します。

吸盤カップをディスプレイから持ち上げながら開き、残りの圧着剤部分を剥がします。 3本のケーブルが本体上部で繋がっているため、90度以上ディスプレイを開かないでください。開きすぎるとケーブルを切断してしまいます。
  • 吸盤カップをディスプレイから持ち上げながら開き、残りの圧着剤部分を剥がします。

  • 3本のケーブルが本体上部で繋がっているため、90度以上ディスプレイを開かないでください。開きすぎるとケーブルを切断してしまいます。

Prop it up on something

Nick Stine - 返信

吸盤カップのノブを緩めて、フロントパネルからカップを外します。 吸盤カップのノブを緩めて、フロントパネルからカップを外します。
  • 吸盤カップのノブを緩めて、フロントパネルからカップを外します。

新しいバッテリー=より速いiPhone
最低購入価格 $16.99
ディスプレイアセンブリを丁寧に手で押さえてデバイス本体から持ち上げます。上部に留められたクリップを蝶番にして開いてください。 ディスプレイを約90度まで開き、この位置で固定したままにします。衝立を利用してください。 作業中、ディスプレイがしっかりと固定されるように、輪ゴムで留めてください。ディスプレイケーブルへの予期せぬ損傷を防ぎます。
  • ディスプレイアセンブリを丁寧に手で押さえてデバイス本体から持ち上げます。上部に留められたクリップを蝶番にして開いてください。

  • ディスプレイを約90度まで開き、この位置で固定したままにします。衝立を利用してください。

    • 作業中、ディスプレイがしっかりと固定されるように、輪ゴムで留めてください。ディスプレイケーブルへの予期せぬ損傷を防ぎます。

    • 急ぎの時は未開封の飲料用缶を利用して、ディスプレイを固定できます。

Smart idea :)

x226 - 返信

on the third picture, the screen is opened more than 90 degrees.

Mirza Zohaib - 返信

It said about 90 degrees

Nick Stine -

In the second picture I was originally wondering what that diagonal piece of material was. Now that I've done a repair I can say that it's the sticky adhesive around the edge of the phone lifting up with the screen.

jonl - 返信

バッテリーコネクターブラケットに留められた次のプラスネジを2本外します。
  • バッテリーコネクターブラケットに留められた次のプラスネジを2本外します。

    • 2.9 mmネジー1本

    • 2.2 mmネジー1本

iPhoneからバッテリーコネクターブラケットを取り出します。 iPhoneからバッテリーコネクターブラケットを取り出します。
  • iPhoneからバッテリーコネクターブラケットを取り出します。

スパッジャーの先端を使って、ロジックボードからバッテリーコネクターを上に持ち上げて外します。 スパッジャーの先端を使って、ロジックボードからバッテリーコネクターを上に持ち上げて外します。 スパッジャーの先端を使って、ロジックボードからバッテリーコネクターを上に持ち上げて外します。
  • スパッジャーの先端を使って、ロジックボードからバッテリーコネクターを上に持ち上げて外します。

Be sure not to skip this step. It is crucial. I have had many repairs where the screen will not light up after the repair if the battery had not been disconnected and reconnected.

Andrew spoelstra - 返信

Thanks for the tip, Andrew.

William Turner -

It should also be mentioned, DO NOT USE A METAL SPUDGER. You could short the battery to other nearby metal parts. I've done that, the battery clip arced to the metal cover on some of the logic board chips, and my phone wouldn't power back on for 3 days. They should put a caution caption on this step. I've had this happen on a 5S as well.

Frank - 返信

Thanks for the tip, Frank.

William Turner -

SERIOUS WARNING!: During *reassembly*, you should NOT reconnect the battery connector until the VERY LAST step (upon reassembly!), as many people, including myself, apparently have smoked (burned, destroyed) the main Logic board. This happens when you reconnect the LCD/digitizer assembly FPC cable. ifixit should modify this instruction to be very explicit about this!

enoughstatic - 返信

作業中、アクシデントでバッテリーが接続しないよう、ロジックボードからバッテリーコネクターを引き離し、ソケットから完全に離れた位置で固定します。 作業中、アクシデントでバッテリーが接続しないよう、ロジックボードからバッテリーコネクターを引き離し、ソケットから完全に離れた位置で固定します。
  • 作業中、アクシデントでバッテリーが接続しないよう、ロジックボードからバッテリーコネクターを引き離し、ソケットから完全に離れた位置で固定します。

If you remove the grey bar with the word “TAPTIC” next, removal of the battery adhesive is much easier. It can be pulled straighter back with less chance of tearing. Here’s an image with the securing screws identified.

If you securely anchor the screen to a can of soup, it is not necessary complete step 16 Front Panel Assembly. I was able to remove the two bottom (1.2 mm) screws and the 2.8 mm screw, but could not get the upper (1.2 mm) screw. I was able to remove the old battery with the Front Panel Assembly left in place.

Edward Dziuk - 返信

ディスプレイケーブルブラケットに留められた次のプラスネジを4本外します。
  • ディスプレイケーブルブラケットに留められた次のプラスネジを4本外します。

    • 1.2 mmネジー3本

    • 2.8 mmネジー1本

Thank you for this great guide!

I was able to skip removing the display assembly and logic board steps and lay the speaker upside down on the bottom edge of the logic board without putting undue pressure on the antenna cable making this a much easier and quicker repair for me. If you choose to leave the display assembly connected, I recommend using a rubber band to hold it to a box of similar size at a 90 degree angle to prevent damage and stress to the attached cables.

So, the steps I skipped were Steps 16 through 34 and Steps 37 through 45.

scentaur - 返信

The 1.2mm screw in the top left corner is refusing to come out, any help?

Harry Allinson - 返信

why does the battery fix kit not include the #00 bit needed to unscrew all 3 1.2mm screws?!?! !#^&@@ off.

robertdjclark - 返信

Either a #00 or a #000 bit should work fine here. Some #0 bits will also work if the point is fine enough. Same goes for a lot of JIS bits. As long as it doesn't strip or slip, you're good.

Jeff Suovanen -

My kit's screwdriver failed about the time I got to the last few steps in this tutorial. I had a cheap precision set with a #000 bit but that refused to seat in the screws. I went to Home Depot, bought a lifetime guarantee Husky precision set with #0000 through #0 bits and that worked beautifully on every screw.

David Shaddock - 返信

The screwdriver in my kit doesn't remove the bottom two screws! any reason why?

anujfolsom - 返信

I actually followed all the guide but isn’t the front panel disassembly skippable? And if so what are the benefits of removing it? Cause i had quite a hard time putting back in the connectors of the 3 flex cables.

GiovanniB - 返信

I have the 6s from Dubai. the top left screw is different with the rest. I am stuck on this screw. i am clue less why this top left + screw.

Anyone have the same issue?

Evander Lorenz - 返信

A precision screwdriver set is a wise investment for doing any of this work. I got a set from iFixit that is very well machined. Don’t expect the cheap drivers with kits to last more than one disassembly-assembly, if that! Also don’t keep mangled bits or drivers…throw them out!!!

Peter Bovey - 返信

what crews  should I use in this step PH000. OR Y000 OR P2 Plz help me

mshary alzhrany - 返信

The kit provided with the replacement Battery of iPhone 6s does not include the right bits to remove the three 1,2mm screws! I had to remove it without removing the display.

Matthias Wagner - 返信

I too experienced a problem with the size of the screwdriver here (supplied in the iFixit kit.) My phone also had a 5th screw right in the center of the plate - another 1.2mm. I removed and replace it without problems.

Scott Young - 返信

@scottvyoung Sounds like you’re working on an iPhone 6. These instructions are for the 6s.

Jeff Suovanen -

Screws are very small and very difficult to put back in!! Lost 2-3 screws

Put phone back together and of course doesnt work Waste of Money!

Thomas Kintigh - 返信

The ifixit kit supplied screwdriver for the display cable bracket did NOT fit. (disappointing) So, I used scentar’s (comment above) method of a large rubber band wrapped around a book weighted kit box to hold it at 90 degrees. Leaving the screen attached and then removing and replacing the battery.

laffinbuz - 返信

ディスプレイケーブルブラケットを取り出します。 ディスプレイケーブルブラケットを取り出します。
  • ディスプレイケーブルブラケットを取り出します。

スパッジャーの平面側先端や指の爪先を使って、基板上ソケットから正面カメラのフレックスケーブルをまっすぐ引き上げて接続を外します。 スパッジャーの平面側先端や指の爪先を使って、基板上ソケットから正面カメラのフレックスケーブルをまっすぐ引き上げて接続を外します。
  • スパッジャーの平面側先端や指の爪先を使って、基板上ソケットから正面カメラのフレックスケーブルをまっすぐ引き上げて接続を外します。

Note carefully the order that they are removed.  My new display had them in the WRONG order and I spent about 2 minutes trying to figure out what was wrong until I compared the new screen with the old screen and saw that they were in wrong sequence.  Fortunately they were relatively easy to fold out of the way and put them in the right order.  After that they popped right into place.  The new cables don’t have the “fold” yet so display had to be held at 90 degrees until all three were installed and the cover reattached.

David Rogers - 返信

I pop up these screen connectors using my fingernail. After doing a lot of repairs, this is the easiest and fastest way to get them loose.

Kenneth Hilstan - 返信

スパッジャーの平面側先端や指の爪先を使って、基板上ソケットからデジタイザーケーブルをまっすぐ上に引き上げて接続を外します。 デジタイザケーブルを再接続する際は、コネクターの中央を押さないでください。コネクターの片一方を押し込んでから、反対側を押します。コネクターの中央を押すとコンポーネントが曲がり、デジタイザーにダメージを与えてしまいます。
  • スパッジャーの平面側先端や指の爪先を使って、基板上ソケットからデジタイザーケーブルをまっすぐ上に引き上げて接続を外します。

  • デジタイザケーブルを再接続する際は、コネクターの中央を押さないでください。コネクターの片一方を押し込んでから、反対側を押します。コネクターの中央を押すとコンポーネントが曲がり、デジタイザーにダメージを与えてしまいます。

Recolor that "pinned" note about not pushing on the center in "RED" if you get a chance. Just sayin'.

William Turner - 返信

Good call. Thanks for the tip!

Evan Noronha -

I can't seem to get the digitizer cable to snap back into place. Any suggestions?

gbmazur - 返信

Yes--if you, like me, could not get the digitizer connector to seat, you've probably got confused on the reassembly order. I had to remove the EMI shield (seven screws), and reinstall it ON TOP of the big flap tongue that comes with the new digitizer, rearranging the order of the connector tails. Note that one of the connectors is a bit shorter than the other, and one of the receptacles on the iPhone is shorter as well. Make sure you're laying down the tails and connectors in the right order when you reassemble! The display data cable--sideways to the others, toward the outer edge, goes first. Then the longer connector, and finally the shorter one. When they're seated, they're seated, and you'll be sure of it.

David Shaddock - 返信

スパッジャーの平面側先端や指の爪先を使って、基板上ソケットからディスプレイデータケーブルをまっすぐ上に引き上げて外します。 スパッジャーの平面側先端や指の爪先を使って、基板上ソケットからディスプレイデータケーブルをまっすぐ上に引き上げて外します。
  • スパッジャーの平面側先端や指の爪先を使って、基板上ソケットからディスプレイデータケーブルをまっすぐ上に引き上げて外します。

I notice there are 3 flex cables, does this disassembly guide apply to the verizon version of iPhone 6s? I don't want to order the wrong digitizer screen for my new and improved iPhone that i somehow managed to crack the screen on.

Bailey Duncan - 返信

There are four cables to disconnect here to complete this process, at least on my phone. The replacement screen also had 4, so no problem.

Scott Young - 返信

I am having a hard time reattaching the LCD cable. Is it possible I bent the connectors? Or possibly the gaskets around it are interfering? I’d like to just pull all of that waterproofing gasket off! >:(

Amanda Cooper (Doula) - 返信

ディスプレイアセンブリを取り外します。

If you're replacing the adhesive, be sure to check the two tabs on the display that receive the pentalobe screws before setting the display on the new adhesive. The tabs on my display were bent inward slightly—just out of reach of the pentalobe screws. I didn't bend these out before setting the display and was forced to re-open the display to adjust them, ruining my carefully placed adhesive.

cdinger - 返信

There is no need to remove camera or the logic board if all you want to do is replace the lightning assembly. Leaving things in place will save you a number of steps. Proceed directly to Step 35 and save yourself all this work.

Ira Goldman - 返信

Also read comments on step 37 as others have also pointed out that there is no need to pull logic board and you can skip those steps mentioned.

Ira Goldman - 返信

Unless you are replacing the speaker you can skip to step 34 as there is no need to remove the logic board.

Bryan Solo - 返信

ホームボタンブラケットから1.7 mmプラスネジを3本取り外します。
  • ホームボタンブラケットから1.7 mmプラスネジを3本取り外します。

When reinstalling, I had to experiment with how tightly to turn the screws, I first turned them all the way in but the home button wouldn't 'click' at all then, so I loosened the left most screw a touch and now it clicks and feel perfect. Not sure which screw is technically the best to adjust.

amadscientist - 返信

When reinstalling the screws be careful not to over tighten and strip the holes.

John Livingston - 返信

INCOMPLETA

Manca tutta la parte che riguarda l’auricolare (altparlante o earpiece) che porta con se il rivelatore di prossimità e il microfono ambientale. Manca la descrizione delle plastiche da recuperare per essere riportate sul nuovo display. Manca la parte di separazione del touch controller dl backframe metallico (anch’esso da svitare e non menzionato in questo articolo…)

Insomma un tutorial incompleto e anche inutile, a mio avviso.

Mario Di Stefano - 返信

ホームボタンブラケット下側の端を持ち上げて、右側に留められた小さな留めネジを取り外します。 EMIシールドの下からブラケットをスライドして取り出します。 EMIシールドの下からブラケットをスライドして取り出します。
  • ホームボタンブラケット下側の端を持ち上げて、右側に留められた小さな留めネジを取り外します。

  • EMIシールドの下からブラケットをスライドして取り出します。

You have to lift it just a bit over the grey plastic knob on the left side.

Martin Born - 返信

スパッジャーを使って、ディスプレイパネル裏側のソケットからホームボタンコネクターの接続を外します。 スパッジャーを使って、ディスプレイパネル裏側のソケットからホームボタンコネクターの接続を外します。
  • スパッジャーを使って、ディスプレイパネル裏側のソケットからホームボタンコネクターの接続を外します。

Make sure you're not heating it before you've popped the connector from its socket or else the socket might come loose.

Sam Decrock - 返信

You may need to use 2 picks/spudgers to do this as I have found that the socket and connector do not disconnect so easily. Place 1 on the socket and use the other to disconnect the connector.

Bryan Solo - 返信

Thanks, Bryan this helped a lot.

Antonio Gomez -

ホームボタンガスケット上の接着剤を柔らかくするため、iOpener をフロントパネル下部端に配置します。
  • ホームボタンガスケット上の接着剤を柔らかくするため、iOpener をフロントパネル下部端に配置します。

フロントパネルを裏返し、プラスチック開口ピックを使ってフロントパネルからホームボタンガスケットを丁寧に外します。 フロントパネルを裏返し、プラスチック開口ピックを使ってフロントパネルからホームボタンガスケットを丁寧に外します。
  • フロントパネルを裏返し、プラスチック開口ピックを使ってフロントパネルからホームボタンガスケットを丁寧に外します。

フロントパネルからボタンガスケットを外すため、ディスプレイアセンブリのフロントからホームボタンを丁寧に押し上げます。 フロントパネルからボタンガスケットを外すため、ディスプレイアセンブリのフロントからホームボタンを丁寧に押し上げます。
  • フロントパネルからボタンガスケットを外すため、ディスプレイアセンブリのフロントからホームボタンを丁寧に押し上げます。

スパッジャーの先端を使って、ディスプレイパネル裏側からホームボタンのフレックスケーブルを取り外します。 スパッジャーの先端を使って、ディスプレイパネル裏側からホームボタンのフレックスケーブルを取り外します。
  • スパッジャーの先端を使って、ディスプレイパネル裏側からホームボタンのフレックスケーブルを取り外します。

ホームボタンアセンブリを取り出します。 ホームボタンアセンブリを取り出します。
  • ホームボタンアセンブリを取り出します。

If you’re purchasing a replacement front panel part from ifixit, you can stop here. The remaining steps remove parts that are included with the replacement assembly.

John Livingston - 返信

フロントパネルのみ残ります。
  • フロントパネルのみ残ります。

Thank you for a thorough and complete guide. The different views of each step helped tremendously. My daughter appreciates it as well, because that means I didn't have to deprive her of her phone for too long.!

Todd Chafin - 返信

On reassembly two very important things...1 - remember to remove the blue/green protective plastic cover from the back of the new screen before putting it back together. You will notice the tab sticking off to the right side of the screen near the volume buttons. 2- take special note of how the two tabs sticking out at the bottom of your replacement screen on either side of your home button. They should be close to vertical or perpendicular to the screen face or they won't be close enough to start the pentalobe screw when finishing the reassembly. Tried to post picture but couldn't figure out how to. You can do this! ;-)

David Althaus - 返信

まとめ

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

347 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:

100%

Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています! 貢献してみませんか?
翻訳を始める ›

Jeff Suovanen

メンバー登録日: 2013年08月06日

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236のガイドは作成済み

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Muito bom. Já aprendi muito consultando os tutoriais da IFIXIT. Parabéns.

Eder Macario - 返信

Solution worked very well - a couple of comments: 1. With a cracked screen the suction cup doesn't hold very well, I was nevertheless able to get the screen corner off with some heavy prying above the headphone jack as suggested in step 4. 2. In the replacement part I received, the order of the digitizer and camera cables was reversed, I had to tuck the digitizer cable back under the camera cable to get them down in the correct order. Great pictures and guide from ifixit.

stread777 - 返信

Agree with both points. The guide is also missing steps (or mention of) moving the camera/sensor/etc to the new digitizer. I didn't think about it until I wondered why the old screen had 3 cables and the new one only had 2.

nerdatheart -

Thanks for the tip, I had the same issue with the suction cup not working on the cracked screen. Applying clear packaging tape over the screen helped but it still didn't come apart. Ended up using a blow dryer on the highest setting to help melt the adhesive around the bottom of the phone (being careful to not let it heat up too long) which eventually made it possible to wedge the spudge inside.

The guide and photos were great along with the replacement part from iFixit. Probably the easiest screen replacement I've done so far.

gotchay -

Try putting packing tape in the center of the screen. This will keep the glass chunks in and the suction cup will stick to it.

Michael St. Hilaire -

I jus replaced the display of my iPhone everything works correctly except for the light sensor, the auto brightness setting is now useless, everything else (camera, speaker, and such) works just fine. Any ideas why?

Enrique Gutierrez - 返信

You may have not properly seated the proximity sensor, check to assure all plastic label stickers have been removed from the from and that it is properly seated. If it is damaged you will have to purchase a new flex.

Alec -

you may have bent the ribbon cable on accident, those parts are very inexpensive and easy to replace.

Michael St. Hilaire -

Stread777 I found that using a wide clear packaging tape adhered to the display that is larger that the suction cup allows you to maintain suction and pull the display up to insert splunger.

I also had to reroute cables

stolz9708 - 返信

excellent guide 10/10

Margaret King - 返信

If your display assembly came with it's own "new" home button installed and the target broken phone has NEVER used the fingerprint function...can you use the one on the new assembly without iOS complaining?

William Turner - 返信

I really liked this guide but what i did not like was that it did not show how to remove the metal part from the screen, nor the speaker and camera. If possible please add this! Otherwise great guide as usual on ifixit!

Johan Andersson - 返信

You skipped the introduction, didn't you? :) The guide you want is right here.

Jeff Suovanen -

I have order several different iPhone 6S screens from my supplier. When testing the screens I noticed without any other components plugged in (proximity sensor) just the screen I can use touch unless I cover the ear speaker area. The display doesn't dim which I wouldn't expect it to without the proximity sensor plugged in. But, is this a bad screen or a sensor of some kind in the actual screen cabling that senses light without proximity sensor?

Brady Davidson - 返信

I have noticed with some cheaper 6S screens that the proximity sensor will not work. If that is the case for you make sure that you scratch off the black film that is on the glass where the proximity sensor is suppose to go. It is not the prettiest thing but it is functional!

Gadget Tech - PDX - 返信

I've disconnected the 3 seperate pins (display data, digitizer and camera flex) why when i search for a screen on say amazon or ebay do the replacements only have 2??

A Fearn - 返信

The third connector is for the front-facing camera flex/sensor assembly. A lot of screens are sold without it, so you have to transfer that part over from your old display before you reassemble everything. At the top of this guide, you'll find a link to a longer/alternate guide for transferring components over to a bare-bones replacement screen. If you prefer to save yourself the hassle, just stick with the guide you're seeing here and use the pre-assembled part linked at the top.

Jeff Suovanen -

Thank you for another excellent guide!

Christa - 返信

https://www.injuredgadgets.com/LCD_Scree...

The way the cables look on this one i'm guessing is correct, could someone please tell me if this is the right fit for Verizon iPhone 6s please or send me a link to the one i need to get!!!!

Bailey Duncan - 返信

That's an iPhone 6 display, as opposed to a 6s. They are not compatible. The correct part for the 6s is linked at the top of this guide.

Jeff Suovanen -

I replaced a screen and there's a "ghost touch" issue. Did I do something wrong or is it a defective display?

John Cavaliere - 返信

It could be the part itself is defective or you bent a ribbon cable while putting it together. I had a similar issue once. The LCD worked perfectly fine when I tested it before I popped the screen back on. When I popped the screen in it didn't work, when I popped the screen back out with the cables still connected it worked. I returned the screen and swapped it out with a new one and it worked fine.

TLDR: it's probably the replacement screen itself.

John Cavaliere -

I don't understand , i have different displays , different producer and in my 3 different iPhone 6S the same problem.

WAPIK -

Hi I jus replaced mine. Any idea why my cameras don't work

Front or back

Tashan O'Neal - 返信

WARNING!: You should NOT reconnect your battery FPC cable / connector until the VERY LAST reassembly step! Modify your reassembly procedure to move this "re-connection" of the battery connector until very last. I can't stress this enough. My logic board is now burned (it smoked upon reconnecting the LCD replacement part, because the battery was already reconnected and "live". The problem is that if you don't have the FPC connector aligned just perfect to the header (on the logic board), you create a momentary short (when the pins aren't aligned well)... this causes the Logic board to instantly burn. Save yourself trouble.

###You have been warned###

enoughstatic - 返信

Sorry to hear you had such a bad outcome. The guide directs you to disconnect the battery first and reconnect it last, which is the correct procedure (and just good practice for electronics repair in general). There is no danger if the steps are followed in order. I don't know if it's any consolation, but at this point you most likely have a blown backlight circuit, which is a straightforward fix for a good microsoldering expert. There are several that frequent our Answers forum, so you may want to reach out to one of them to see about restoring your phone to working order. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

I followed this tutorial to replace my broken iPhone 6s display, everything went fine, everything working after the replacement, but the display kind of has a pink hue to it. Does anybody have had the same impression? I mean, is that because of the quality of the replacement part or may I have done something wrong during the repair process?

David - 返信

I have the same problem. Did you find a solution yet? or did you just got used to it?

Donat -

Replaced my broken screen and the display works but the touch screen is not responding to any touch or pressure. When the old screen is put back the touch screen works fine . I have tried 2 different new screens with the same result.

Brian

Brian - 返信

I replaced the screen complete and battery and lightning / headphone jack all at the same time. Smooth as silk.

joshuabogage - 返信

the screen was tough to get loose! ifixit sent a guitar pick with it that worked better than the spudger . little plugins are picky. maybe if i had smaller hands it would have been easier but it took less than an hour, Im happy!

Dan Powell - 返信

Tried this repair on a broken 6s screen. The repair was easy, and the guide was helpful, but my touch ID does not work now. Does anyone know what the problem is

Jackson Kroger - 返信

you have damaged the touch id flex cable

Computer Hacker -

Hey all! I replaced the screen just fine, the guide was amazing! However, the new screen powers on, displays the Apple logo for about five seconds then turns off…then it repeats. I don’t have to touch the phone, and it will do this over and over again. It’s doing it currently.

I tried the trick of holding down the power button and the home button and it all it does is turn off the phone and start it back up again with the exact same issue.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

Kellan Bradshaw - 返信

You’ll probably need to do a bit of troubleshooting to isolate the issue. You can find some suggestions here and here. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

I replaced my friends screen the other day and it took only about 30 or so minutes. I used the pro tech toolkit that you can buy from Ifixit and this guide and I had a smooth install and her phone was up and running in no time, fantastic guide.

Grass - 返信

The phone would not boot! The battery was at about 15% before I started. After I replaced the display the phone would not boot. After disassembly & reassembly numerous times looking for a problem, even reinstalling the old display-no boot. In final desperation I plugged in the charger-the phone booted! Apparently if the battery voltage gets too low it will not start the phone after the battery has been disconnected or the phone disassembled.

I don’t know if this problem has an explanation or was unique to my repair.

maltman - 返信

Thank you for a most detailed and insightful tutorial! This my 4th i-Phone screen repair/replacement and this was by far the best tutorial I have utilized. There were no surprises and the sequential photos really made this job safe for myself AND the phone!

Peter Bovey - 返信

Nice tutorial!

i have replaced screen and new screen is half black with the other half show semi white and with vertyical lines…

connectors look clean and undamanged… . any thoughts?

Hood - 返信

Just a warning: my replacement screen does not work well with polarized glasses. It blacks out in the normal ‘vertical’ position. Whereas my original apple screen worked great with polarized glasses when vertical and only slightly dimmed when in the horizontal position.

davecivello - 返信

I have done this reapair but force touch isn’t working on the new screen. Any ideas on why?

My new screen also has a slight pink tone to it, but I think I’ll get used to it and probably wont think of it. As long as I get my force touch to work again..

Björn Tirsén - 返信

I just finished a full screen assembly replacement and all seemed to go smoothly. However, like Kellan, Once I reassembled and turned the phone on, it has been stuck in an endless reboot loop of showing the Apple logo for a few seconds, then turning off and repeating.

Any ideas what’s wrong?

Jonathan Elison - 返信

@jonelison Try the suggestions here and here. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Just finished the repair on my wife’s phone. Really straight forward. Moving the home button was really easy too!! Turned the phone back on and everything worked just as it should. Thanks!!

Stephen Silva - 返信

Hi all! I replaced the screen according to the instructions. But when i start up the phone the display shows vertical stripes across the screen. The connectors and cables don’t show any obvious damage. When I reinstall the old screen no problems appear. What could be the problem?

Martijn Mooij - 返信

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