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はじめに

If your AL2216W is having problems, it is likely a capacitor fault. Here are some signs of bad capacitors:

Note: While some issues may be corrected with a partial repair, this is NOT RECOMMENDED since one bad capacitor usually means the rest will fail.

  • Power issues (Present issue)
  • Excessive transformer/inverter hum (Present issue)
  • Backlight problems
  • Auto adjust problems (VGA) (Present issue)
  • Random power issues that only resolve if the monitor is unplugged
  • Video issues (Ex: Unstable image, video instability)

Original capacitor values (Delta 00A power supply)

NOTE: Most of these values are obsolete/revision specific - reference the power supply as well. MANY CAPACITORS WILL NEED TO BE UPGRADED as these are obsolete or hard to find.

  • 25V 1000uF (x2)
  • 10V 1000uF (x1)
  • 25V 220uF (x2)
  • 16V 2200uF inverter (x1/Early power supplies. Not found on later revisions.)
  1. CAUTION: If you are uncertain about holding high voltage parts, follow all provided warnings and use common sense. A capacitor discharge tool is STRONGLY RECOMMENDED.
    • CAUTION: If you are uncertain about holding high voltage parts, follow all provided warnings and use common sense. A capacitor discharge tool is STRONGLY RECOMMENDED.

    • The filter capacitor will hold the most residual charge. Use caution around this capacitor!

    • Unplug the monitor for 24-48 hours. Wait 5-7 days if the filter capacitor is replaced.

  2. This monitor never came with a hinge cap. If yours has one, snap it off from the marked points (black). Remove the 4 screws from the monitor stand with a Philips #1 screwdriver. The bottom screws should be removed first.
    • This monitor never came with a hinge cap. If yours has one, snap it off from the marked points (black).

    • Remove the 4 screws from the monitor stand with a Philips #1 screwdriver. The bottom screws should be removed first.

  3. Remove 4 fine threaded screws from the back of the monitor with a Phillips #0 screwdriver. All of these screws are the same type and length. This screw is unique and only goes in one place as the thread is different. Set it aside separately.
    • Remove 4 fine threaded screws from the back of the monitor with a Phillips #0 screwdriver. All of these screws are the same type and length.

    • This screw is unique and only goes in one place as the thread is different. Set it aside separately.

  4. If the monitor has never been serviced, a flathead screwdriver may help - but will damage the plastic. On the bottom of the monitor, there are four slots to open the monitor. To release these clips, use a Jimmy or flathead screwdriver.
    • If the monitor has never been serviced, a flathead screwdriver may help - but will damage the plastic.

    • On the bottom of the monitor, there are four slots to open the monitor. To release these clips, use a Jimmy or flathead screwdriver.

  5. If you are having trouble doing this, use a pry tool. Unserviced monitors can be stubborn.
    • If you are having trouble doing this, use a pry tool. Unserviced monitors can be stubborn.

    • With the monitor unclipped on the bottom, pull the sides of the monitor up. Do this slowly to avoid damaging the plastics and LCD.

  6. After these screws are removed, the power supply will be exposed.
    • After these screws are removed, the power supply will be exposed.

    • With the back of the monitor off, remove the 2 screws on the IEC power connector using a Phillips #0 screwdriver.

  7. If you do not have a nut driver on hand, needlenoose plyers can also be used.
    • If you do not have a nut driver on hand, needlenoose plyers can also be used.

    • Remove the 4 screw pins for the video cables from the monitor. Use a 5mm Nut bit/driver to remove the screw pins from the power supply shield.

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  9. Disconnect the CCFL cables from the power supply board. Disconnect the CCFL cables from the power supply board.
    • Disconnect the CCFL cables from the power supply board.

  10. Power button board removal is optional. Disconnect the flat flex cable that goes to the control board.
    • Power button board removal is optional.

    • Disconnect the flat flex cable that goes to the control board.

  11. Remove the 2 lower screws that hold the power supply shield to the monitor with a Phillips #0 screwdriver. Remove the 2 lower screws that hold the power supply shield to the monitor with a Phillips #0 screwdriver.
    • Remove the 2 lower screws that hold the power supply shield to the monitor with a Phillips #0 screwdriver.

  12. Removal of the lower shield is not required but makes the job easier. To remove it, unclip the plastic tabs on the LCD bezel. On the right side of the monitor, remove the remaining screws holding the shield in place. Lift the lower plate up while removing the power supply shield to remove it from the monitor. Once this is done, you will have access to the power supply.
    • Removal of the lower shield is not required but makes the job easier. To remove it, unclip the plastic tabs on the LCD bezel.

    • On the right side of the monitor, remove the remaining screws holding the shield in place.

    • Lift the lower plate up while removing the power supply shield to remove it from the monitor. Once this is done, you will have access to the power supply.

  13. If you see bulged capacitors, assume there is a residual charge. If the filter capacitor is replaced, IT MUST BE DISCHARGED. In addition, the black screw (Blue) is a ground screw. This capacitor is only found on older power supplies. Replacement is not required, but recommended.
    • If you see bulged capacitors, assume there is a residual charge.

    • If the filter capacitor is replaced, IT MUST BE DISCHARGED. In addition, the black screw (Blue) is a ground screw.

    • This capacitor is only found on older power supplies. Replacement is not required, but recommended.

    • With the power supply shield removed from the monitor, identify the power supply. Take note of the values, including the inverter cap if present.

    • Remove the 4 screws from the power supply. Once this is done, lift up the power supply at a slight angle to clear the chassis. Do not lift too much or the connector may be damaged!

  14. If the PCB is marked to avoid mis-installation, the flux will wash these marks off.
    • If the PCB is marked to avoid mis-installation, the flux will wash these marks off.

    • If you are unsure of the position of the capacitors, mark the polarity with a permanent marker. If the capacitors are installed incorrectly, they will explode when power is applied.

  15. If you do not have flux on hand, solder can be used. Some flux is difficult to clean if overused.
    • If you do not have flux on hand, solder can be used. Some flux is difficult to clean if overused.

    • To prepare the board for capacitor replacement, add flux or solder to ease removal.

  16. Use of a Helping Hands is recommended to avoid soldering iron contact. If you do not have one, hold the board at an angle. While a partial replacement may work, the remaining capacitors will fail. Change the entire set while it is apart. Refer to this guide for soldering tips: はんだ付けとはんだ除去の作業ガイド. Move to a workspace with ventilation or use a fume extractor. Once in an appropriate workspace, desolder the old capacitors. Heat up each leg and remove it.
    • Use of a Helping Hands is recommended to avoid soldering iron contact. If you do not have one, hold the board at an angle.

    • While a partial replacement may work, the remaining capacitors will fail. Change the entire set while it is apart. Refer to this guide for soldering tips: はんだ付けとはんだ除去の作業ガイド.

    • Move to a workspace with ventilation or use a fume extractor. Once in an appropriate workspace, desolder the old capacitors. Heat up each leg and remove it.

    • After removing the capacitors, clean up the old solder with a desoldering braid. Lift it with the iron when removing it.

  17. Check the capacitor polarity before soldering the new capacitors in. If they are installed incorrectly, they will explode!
    • Check the capacitor polarity before soldering the new capacitors in. If they are installed incorrectly, they will explode!

    • Install the new capacitors. Check the polarity/placement and bend the leads so they do not come loose during installation.

  18. Once the polarity is verified, solder the capacitors in. After installation, cut off any excess lead. Once the polarity is verified, solder the capacitors in. After installation, cut off any excess lead. Once the polarity is verified, solder the capacitors in. After installation, cut off any excess lead.
    • Once the polarity is verified, solder the capacitors in. After installation, cut off any excess lead.

  19. After verifying there are no cold solder joints, clean the board. This can be cleaned with 91%+ Isopropyl or denatured alcohol.
    • After verifying there are no cold solder joints, clean the board. This can be cleaned with 91%+ Isopropyl or denatured alcohol.

  20. Put the monitor back together and test the repair.
    • Put the monitor back together and test the repair.

終わりに

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

11 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

Nick

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26 件のコメント

I did not replace the large capacitor on the Acer monitor yet. All other caps have been replaced. I may have to replace the FSPO55- ZP102A as it has a hot spot beside it. I don't know if the part number is right? Do know where I can buy it. Tom B

Thomas Brady - 返信

These older CCFL panels usually burn on the PCB by the inverter coil and main transformer (the Delta branded part, in this case). The LED monitors limit the failure points to the transformer.

It sounds like your PCB got burned from the heat by the transformer or the inverter coil. This is very common and the boards are designed to take it. However, if you are concerned you should buy a new power supply board altogether if that makes you more comfortable.

Nick -

In step 12, replacing the capacitors with ones with a different capacitance rating instead of using a capacitor rated for higher voltage makes no sense to me electrically. The capacitance rating is the important part, if you use a capacator rated for say 35 volts when the original is rated for 10 makes no difference whatsoever. the rating just means MAX voltage.

Brennan Gomolka - 返信

Thanks @nick! Just waiting for the parts to come in!

Aiden Baker - 返信

@nick which one is the filter capacitor?

Aiden Baker -

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