メインコンテンツにスキップ

ビデオの概要

はじめに

以防你没听过,Switch的产品线出新了:它就是任天堂Switch Lite,而且它的价格更低,因此您的花费更少。 它还有热门的新颜色-仅仅在我们忘记我们是来拆解的之前短暂的分散了我们的注意力。拿起你的工具,让我们把新的Switch Lite拆开吧。

YouTube? Instagram? Twitter? Facebook? Take your pick and give us a click, and let’s keep in touch on all future teardowns. And if a newsletter is more your style, we do that too.

この分解は修理ガイドでは ありません。 お持ちのNintendo Switch Liteを修理する際は、iFixitの修理ガイドをご利用ください。

  1. 一个野生的Switch出现了!Nintendex对此有何评价?
    • 一个野生的Switch出现了!Nintendex对此有何评价?

    • 定制的英伟达Tegra处理器

    • 内置5.5英寸电容触控LCD屏幕,具有1280 × 720的分辨率。

    • 32GB内置存储空间(可通过microSDHC 或microSDXC拓展至高达2TB)

    • 802.11 a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi, 蓝牙 4.1, NFC, USB Type-C 接口 (仅供充电), 以及 3.5 mm 音频接口

    • 内置加速度计和陀螺仪

    • 可充电锂离子电池,可提供3.0至7.0小时的续航时间

    • 配有不可拆卸的控制器

    Is there a guide without all the cringe pokemon references? Preferably one where the first two steps are actually steps.

    Harley Stout - 返信

  2. 在开始前,我们打开了X射线游戏精灵(由我们在Creative Electron的伙伴提供)。 和现在大多数手机不同,这个设备有着明显的边框,所以我们普通的拆解壁纸可能不太适合它。也许我们也可以做个皮肤…… 和现在大多数手机不同,这个设备有着明显的边框,所以我们普通的拆解壁纸可能不太适合它。也许我们也可以做个皮肤……
    • 在开始前,我们打开了X射线游戏精灵(由我们在Creative Electron的伙伴提供)。

    • 和现在大多数手机不同,这个设备有着明显的边框,所以我们普通的拆解壁纸可能不太适合它。也许我们也可以做个皮肤……

  3. 我们猛拉了一下控制器,希望能够得到两个新的黄色Joy-Cons,但是并没有成功。 看来我们需要使用更传统的拆解方式。 但是,集成的控制器确实包含了一个诚实至善的十字形按键。
    • 我们猛拉了一下控制器,希望能够得到两个新的黄色Joy-Cons,但是并没有成功。

    • 看来我们需要使用更传统的拆解方式。

    • 但是,集成的控制器确实包含了一个诚实至善的十字形按键。

    • 其他的外部变化:左侧Joy-Con的红外发射器被砍掉了,而且扬声器被从前部(原版Switch)移动到了背后(Switch Lite)。

    • Lite还缺少原版Switch的支撑架,使得其成为具有“最佳气动外形”的Switch。

    Aerodynamics require an high altitude drop test to proof

    SZCthebandit ‖ - 返信

  4. 不可逾越的三点式螺丝挡住了我们前进的道路。我们在找到合适的工具后才得以是前进的道路不断延伸。 今天什么困难都不能阻挡我们-我们要执行这个任务,所以带来了所需的所有工具。Y00螺丝刀,就决定是你了! 在后盖下方我们找到了另一个后盖。继续。
    • 不可逾越的三点式螺丝挡住了我们前进的道路。我们在找到合适的工具后才得以是前进的道路不断延伸。

    • 今天什么困难都不能阻挡我们-我们要执行这个任务,所以带来了所需的所有工具。Y00螺丝刀,就决定是你了!

    • 在后盖下方我们找到了另一个后盖。继续。

    • 我们注意到SD卡读卡器现在被永远固定在了主逻辑板上-但是在老的switch上,我们在这个步骤已经可以将其移除了。

    • 模块化大体上有利于维修,所以我们认为这个小点是历史性地倒退。

    • 让我们瞧瞧这些金属屏蔽罩下方,switch的内部结构第一次出现在了可见到光波段。

  5. 这里我们花了点时间把老的2019版的switch的后盖用热风枪吹了下来,来做些小小的(英语中与Lite这个型号是同一个单词)比较。 最重要的变化:Lite中的电池不再是上下颠倒的。仅仅这一点就使得我们的拆解变得很值得。 其他的变化还包括:两个事实,一个谎言。他们是:(1)电池的尺寸变小了,并且它旁边换成了一个较轻规格的热管。(2)耳机接口完全变成了模块化的组件。(3)现在固定散热鳍片的泡泡糖变成了樱桃味。
    • 这里我们花了点时间把老的2019版的switch的后盖用热风枪吹了下来,来做些小小的(英语中与Lite这个型号是同一个单词)比较。

    • 最重要的变化:Lite中的电池不再是上下颠倒的。仅仅这一点就使得我们的拆解变得很值得。

    • 其他的变化还包括:两个事实,一个谎言。他们是:(1)电池的尺寸变小了,并且它旁边换成了一个较轻规格的热管。(2)耳机接口完全变成了模块化的组件。(3)现在固定散热鳍片的泡泡糖变成了樱桃味。

    • 抬起电池,我们发现...一张湿纸巾?或许有人曾试图擦掉这一坨电池粘合剂。

    • 据任天堂说,这个13.6瓦时的电池能为你提供3-7小时的续航。这远远高于原版switch的16瓦时电池(但是比续航增强版的能续航9小时的电池要小)。

    You should add the dimension of the battery among other parts. I am finding it very hard to find this information.

    emil.cleanideas - 返信

    I don’t know how you removed the battery on this thing, but I destroyed a few tools prying the bigger off. Plus the battery itself got bent beyond repair where I had to order a new one. Whether the water made the adhesive extra sticky I don’t know. (When I found the Switch, it had water damage)

    Anima055 - 返信

    The battery is definitely pretty difficult to remove. It just takes time and patience! Our guide details the process: Nintendo Switch Lite バッテリーの交換

    Craig Lloyd -

  6. 能效更高的硬件不止延长了续航时间,还减少了不必要的热量。所以我们毫不惊奇地但很开心地发现switch配备的散热鳍片变小了。 如果你担心散热表现会下降,请记住这个Switch只能输出到内置的720p显示器,不像大的Switch,还能在dock模式下输出至1080p分辨率的图像。 另外一个小区别:之前左扳机键和右扳机键按下去后是直接触发PCB上的一个开关,但是新的扳机键是通过静电容薄膜触发。这个可以避免异物的影响,也会提供一个更舒适的触法行程。
    • 能效更高的硬件不止延长了续航时间,还减少了不必要的热量。所以我们毫不惊奇地但很开心地发现switch配备的散热鳍片变小了。

    • 如果你担心散热表现会下降,请记住这个Switch只能输出到内置的720p显示器,不像大的Switch,还能在dock模式下输出至1080p分辨率的图像。

    • 另外一个小区别:之前左扳机键和右扳机键按下去后是直接触发PCB上的一个开关,但是新的扳机键是通过静电容薄膜触发。这个可以避免异物的影响,也会提供一个更舒适的触法行程。

    • 这个声音驱动单元和老版的Switch看起来是一样的,但是有新的固定方式。

    • 这次声音不仅向下发射,他们还占据了本来给两个Joy-Con电池的空间。尽管我们没有做直接的对比,但是要是Lite的音质不是最好的我们会很吃惊。

  7. 拉开单独的迷你joycon电路板,我们来到了Switch中最近饱受争议的摇杆。 最开始当我们吧外壳打开时,这些摇杆看起来跟2019版Switch挺像-但是钳合边缘的卡扣的设计有点不同,而且整体也比较容易打开。 我们把Switch Lite(上)和2019版Switch(下)的摇杆都打开了,把他们并排放置,希望能够找到关于摇杆漂移问题的改进。
    • 拉开单独的迷你joycon电路板,我们来到了Switch中最近饱受争议的摇杆。

    • 最开始当我们吧外壳打开时,这些摇杆看起来跟2019版Switch挺像-但是钳合边缘的卡扣的设计有点不同,而且整体也比较容易打开。

    • 我们把Switch Lite(上)和2019版Switch(下)的摇杆都打开了,把他们并排放置,希望能够找到关于摇杆漂移问题的改进。

    • 内部零件乍一看没有什么不同,但细看之下我们发现电路板的走线稍有不同,按压开关表笑了,而金属滑块看起来大了一些。

    • 对与摇杆漂移问题比较普遍的猜测是黑色的接触垫会随着时间推移而磨损。他们看起来可能没什么变化,但是这次他们可能由更坚固的材料制成。不幸的是,这个超出了我们目前的测试能力。

    Ich habe die neue Version der analog sticks genauer unter die Lupe genommen, sie mit meinem problembehafteten verglichen und dabei etwas festgestellt. Ich habe es in einem Tweet zusammengefasst

    https://twitter.com/GoodonSwitch/status/...

    Goodon - 返信

    Just replaced my left joystick, I didn’t even take off the main heatshield to disconnect the battery (had been dead for awhile). The ribbon cables went back in easily with a drop of de-oxit for lubrication. This is a smart design because the left joystick gets much more abuse than the right. PROTIP: The ribbon cables are all fixed in place via a clasp that must be lifted up first. Failure to do so will damage the ribbon cables and your board. The riskiest part of this repair is losing screws. PH000 and Y00 drivers are needed. About a 30 minute repair for a first timer.

    walczyk - 返信

  8. 移开主板,我们发现之前模块化的闪存这次也被固定住了。(DIY的储存模块虽然在上一个版本的Switch里无法工作,但至少他们物理上兼容)。 “硅水豚”A面 英伟达ODNX10-A1 (基于Tegra X1-的SoC, 大概是T210B01的一个客制化变体 )
    • 移开主板,我们发现之前模块化的闪存这次也被固定住了。(DIY的储存模块虽然在上一个版本的Switch里无法工作,但至少他们物理上兼容)。

    • “硅水豚”A面

    • 英伟达ODNX10-A1 (基于Tegra X1-的SoC, 大概是T210B01的一个客制化变体 )

    • 2x 三星 K4U6E3S4AM-MGCJ LPDDR4X DRAM 16 Gb (总共4 GB)

    • 三星 KLMBG2JETD-B041 32 GB eMMC 闪存

    • 意法半导体ST21NFCD NFC控制器,以及多点触控屏幕控制器。

    • Realtek ALC5639 音频编码器

    • Cypress CYW4356X 802.11ac Wi-Fi + 蓝牙 5.0 SoC

    You mention the Cypress chip to be Bluetooth 5.0, but list in the tech specs as Bluetooth 4.1. Which is it?

    skatendo16 - 返信

    Nintendo’s official specs for the Switch Lite say BT 4.1. The Cypress chip is an off-the-shelf design that may have some un-utilized capabilities.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Is it possible to resolder ram chips with highrler capacity to boost a performance?

    Vsevolod Moskalenko - 返信

  9. 让我们把“硅水豚”翻个面,以看到更多的芯片: 意法半导体STM32F038C6 32位微控制器,具有32KB的闪存。
    • 让我们把“硅水豚”翻个面,以看到更多的芯片:

    • 意法半导体STM32F038C6 32位微控制器,具有32KB的闪存。

    • B1913 GCBRG HAC STD T1056719A1安全微控制单元(也许是)

    • 美信半导体MAX77620HEWJ,为电源管理IC芯片。

    • 罗姆半导体BM92T10MWV-Z,为USB-C PD充电控制芯片。

    • 德州仪器 BQ24193 充电管理芯片

  10. 原版的Switch有一个有间隙的非贴合屏-这些天来这种屏幕很少见了,但是他让碎屏修理变得更容易。在容易掉落的移动设备上,这对于降低维修费用是一个很大的进步。 所以这个Switch Lite咋样呢?
    • 原版的Switch有一个有间隙的非贴合屏-这些天来这种屏幕很少见了,但是他让碎屏修理变得更容易。在容易掉落的移动设备上,这对于降低维修费用是一个很大的进步。

    • 所以这个Switch Lite咋样呢?

    • 一点点热量加上轻轻一撬就能让屏幕总成离开框架-目前为止很好。

    • 再轻轻一划,这个数字转换器/屏幕就从显示屏上脱离下来了。成功 !Switch的排线完好无损。

    I’d say IPS would made sense since in whatever posture the Switch Lite fell to ground the screen won’t be directly contacted (joysticks and buttons acts like a cushion layer), it does not appear often to encounter a fractured screen so swapping to IPS gives better visual experience and more chassis space(for batteries?)

    SZCthebandit ‖ - 返信

    Given that the majority of replacements are screen-related, this is a really poor explanation. What about the gasket? The adhesive? You didn’t touch on that at all - and it’s SUPER important to get right.

    Nick Tomkin - 返信

    As stated in the banner at the top of the page, these are not instructions. Our hardware teardowns are intended to give a first look at the device and assess it for repairability, and that’s all. Step-by-step repair guides will come later! You can use this document for reference, but it’s not meant to be exhaustive.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    la verdad es que en el desmontaje y separacion no os habeis esmerado pero nada de nada, una foto de un despiece que ademas no tiene ni un resto de pagamento y creo que no va aser tan facil como decis y menos el volver a montar, como se monta? que adhesivo? no queda nada nada claro nada.

    mimateo1964 - 返信

    I agree with the posters above - it’s the most important and dangerous step (separating the screen from the digitizer) and they choose to go with “something magic happens here”! Disappointing and frustrating.

    Chernobyl - 返信

    Looking at replacing a LCD, is the LCD glued to the glass or just adhesive around the edge?

    TechClint -

    It’s just a strip of black adhesive all the way around - not glue. Just warm it up with a heat gun or hair dryer and carefully peel apart the LCD and digitizer. That said, if you’re replacing a broken LCD it might be easier just to get the complete LCD+digitizer assembly (the digitizer is cheap).

    Chernobyl -

  11. 钱包负担轻,功能也“轻”,外形也“轻”。
    • 钱包负担轻,功能也“轻”,外形也“轻”。

    • 模块化绝对是一个在阉割版Switch上被砍掉的项目。缺少可更换的控制器,存储设备和SD卡读卡器。

    • 一个非贴合屏幕赢得了喝彩,可更换的游戏卡读卡器和耳机接口也是。

    • 没Switch那么酷,也没有3DS那样有那么多功能,这个Lite看起来挺合适。但是他的可维修性能得几分呢?

  12. まとめ
    • 螺丝而不是粘合剂被用来固定大多数部件。
    • 许多部件,包括摇杆,风扇和耳机接口都是模块化的,也可以被单独更换。
    • 电池,尽管被牢牢粘住,也可以在后盖被打开后快速更换。
    • 屏幕是非贴合屏,但是被胶水牢牢固定。
    • 闪存和SD卡读卡器现在被直接焊在了主板上。
    • 不常见的三点式螺丝阻挡了维修。
    リペアビリティのスコア
    6
    10点中6点のリペアビリティ
    (10点が最も修理しやすい指標です)

以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:

en zh

100%

これらの翻訳者の方々は世界を修理する私たちのサポートをしてくれています。 あなたも貢献してみませんか?
翻訳を始める ›

33 件のコメント

The L and R triggers on the old style joycons pressed onto a fragile PCB mounted tactile switch, and were both fragile and a common point of failure. The new ones will hopefully be more robust, especially important as now they are part of the main unit and not a replaceable accessory.

Sam P - 返信

Ethan…..first of all why is it important that you posted first? Second of all, you said, “Looks like the Switch Lite is based off of the original Switch.” Really, Ethan? You think? Sorry for the sarcasm but c’mon man, how is your comment helping?

fitzpatrickclaudia - 返信

You are getting waeker and weaker. No exact descripton or OEM of the fan. Boy that’s weak for because the bearing of the fan can be an issue over time too. Sleevebearings would be horror for a unit like this. I hope it is ball or hydrodynamic. This fan has to run high speeds becaus of its small diameter.

TheLOD2010 - 返信

So now this begs the question, can you reuse the joycons from the OG switch, remove the buttons and place them into the lite?

Say if you wanted a different color for your buttons, seems the triggers are a nono since they use a different button system but what about a,b,x,y,+,- ect?

Keetan Brumm - 返信

awful teardown guide, please give better details regarding screw placement, etc

Ward McKinley - 返信

The top of the teardown explicitly says it’s not a service guide. iFixit does have separate guides on Switch repair.

Ethan Zuo -

You might find the repair guides more helpful, they highlight all the screws and everything :)

Nintendo Switch Lite Repair

Probably -

Just bought a turquoise lite and it comes with standard phillips screws

Alan W. G. Meraz - 返信

The four screws on the top and bottom of the switch lite’s case are PH000, while the 4 on the back are Y00. Look again. The screws inside are all PH000 as well.

walczyk -

Would anyone know where one could source the ‘dedicated mini-joycon board’? They seem to be the one part you cannot find anywhere.

Kevin Roberts - 返信

How easy would it be for a total novice to take this apart for the purposes of re-painting the switch? I was thinking about taking it apart and doing a custom paint job on it but wanted to see if anyone else has tried it before I give it a go.

Jin Wong - 返信

I'm a total novice and did this its very straight forward just don't get the screws mixed up and be mindful of ribbon cables also have the right tools otherwise you will strip the

Jose Barrientos -

Does anyone know where to get a replacement fan for the lite (in the UK). Mine sounds like its grating rocks most of the time.

Robert Barrow - 返信

Can someone point me in the direction of which ribbon connectors/sockets are for which function?

I took my boys apart to replace a snapped analogue stick and now it has sound and come on but the screen is blank, not even back-lit, and I'm not sure where I need to go next to troubleshoot it.

kevin.hyatt.email - 返信

Took mine apart today and there are three ribbon cables that come from the screen two are under the gamecard slot those are for picture and backlight the power runs to the otherside near the battery

Jose Barrientos -

I’m just curious in respect to future repairability of my own switch lite - if I was to theoretically crack it open and replace the right stick (since that’s the only one that’s shown any issues whatsoever with my original set of joycons, also very pleased to see that one at least looks reasonably easy to get at) - would I need to replace the thermal compound? Or would it be fine if I just put it all back together as is?

Jessica Wilson - 返信

I think it might be fine/preferable to leave/reuse the purple goop between the heatpipe and the topmost shield, as that seems to be quite a bit more spreadable than usual thermal paste used on computers.

For the blue/greyish goop between the heatsink and the SoC shield, and between the SoC shield and the SoC, you might be able to scoop up some of the excess goop that seeped out that are still kinda liquid, and slap it back on to the chip die and copper part of the shield. Though decent thermal paste aren’t all that expensive.

dennis97519 -

Any idea where to get replacement screws for the plate? Semi-stripped one of them and was able to remove it.

Keva - 返信

A slightly strange question, do the L and R buttons rest on the plastic? If you were to press too hard, would the plastic hold that pressure? Or would the soldered pins break to the board? It is a doubt that is eating me. Thank you

Elliot - 返信

If you were to break a corner of the game card reader (brother decided to rip instead of gently unscrew a stripped screw), where could we get a replacement card reader? My understanding is that the switch lite and switch have different game card reader parts.

Carla Sabella - 返信

I for one disagree with this repairability score. If you’re fixing any handheld electronic and you don’t have access to a tri-wing screwdriver, you are probably just new to fixing these things. Every Nintendo handheld since the original gameboy has had them and apple adopted the use of the same bit in their very popular iPhone 7 (albeit a tad smaller). Also the adhesive on the digitizer comes off like butter with a guitar pick and some heat. Getting a new digi on without taking out the MB is an exercise in futility so that is a bit annoying, but overall I think this handheld is pretty easy to work on all things considered.

Orion Mcnally - 返信

agreed regarding the Y0 driver bits, your toolkit should have them and if they don’t then you are gonna be ordering replacement parts anyway…

walczyk -

Broke my power/volume flex cable trying to put it back into the connector, anyone know when i can get a replacement, if at all?

Anthony - 返信

omg that sucks, how would you break it putting it back in? I don’t know if mine is fully inserted, but de-oxit helped. BTW I found them on ebay for $7 just google something “Nintendo “Switch Lite” Power Volume Button Ribbon Flex Cable” and do not buy the non switch-lite version since they are different.

walczyk -

Why are there NO videos or howtos that show the trick in separating the digitizer from the LCD? I’ve disassembled everything but I’m stuck at that point. My LCD is good - just the digitizer is scratched and I don’t want to crack the LCD separating it from the digitizer. What’s the trick? Just a heat gun and careful prying? Note the Switch is different from the Lite - in the Switch the LCD and digitizer are not glued together, so it’s simple to replace just one. Not in the Lite tho. Any suggestions?

Chernobyl - 返信

Okay, I took the plunge and tried separating the LCD and digitizer - it worked! The trick is to use a heat gun to heat one end of the digitizer side and then very carefully and slowly bend/peel it back from the LCD. There is a thin frame (about 2 mm wide) of black adhesive that goes all the way around. Once you’ve pulled them apart you’ll need to peel off that adhesive strip and move it to the new digitizer (if that’s what you’re replacing). Reattach the digitizer to the Switch Lite frame (reuse or use new clear adhesive if necessary), and then carefully align and stick the LCD to the backside of the digitizer. Then just reassemble everything and you’re good to ho.

Chernobyl -

¿sonde podré encontrar la tarjeta del joycon, la que aparece en la imagen uno del paso 7? vivo en Guatemala, de preferencia si la puedo conseguir en Latino américa, muchas gracias por su respuesta

Gerson Quiñonez - 返信

Hello Does anyone know where i can get a replacement MAX77620H EWJ 1914 KVLP for the switch lite without having to buy a dead board?

Kevin - 返信

japanese versions have only phillips screws

Diego Sandoval R. - 返信

I’m interested in whether or not it is possible to add some kind of rumble motors (small, slim profile, like used in mobile phones) to the Switch Lite, there seems to be space inside the casing but does anyone know if there is an output on the board that could be used? Tied into the speakers somehow perhaps?

Also, I can’t see a NFC antenna anywhere in this tear down, yet it’s on the right stick as per the joy-cons. Is it just missing from the tear down or is it physically built into the right stick this time around?

Ian Brooks - 返信

What chip can I replace to restore video? I get audio, but no video. And No, its NOT the backlight or backlight cable/connector.

Steven Langlois - 返信

Does anyone know where exactly the NFC touch point is? I couldn’t see it in any of the pictures.

E. Serrano - 返信

How about the replacement for the ABXY buttons?

Could I get theses components from ifixit?

Leo CHAN - 返信

コメントを追加

統計データを表示:

過去 24時間: 93

過去 7 日: 479

過去 30 日: 2,514

今までの合計 143,881