If the motor continues to operate by itself after manually getting the motor up to speed by using a drill etc then it may well be the motor start winding or the capacitor. I assume that this is what you meant or did you mean that you manually operated the motor all the time?
As suggested, try measuring for voltage at the motor terminals.
'''Be safety aware'''. I'm assuming that it is mains supply voltage to the motor, so be careful.
''If the voltage is there'' but the pump is not starting then it is either the motor start winding or the capacitor.
If the motor has a start capacitor as I suggested it ''might'', given that a capacitor is listed in the parts list, then it is difficult to measure the start winding using an Ohmmeter to see if it is OK as it may be wired as shown here in [https://electricalacademia.com/induction-motor/types-single-phase-induction-motors-single-phase-induction-motor-wiring-diagram/|Fig.2]. You may have to change one or the other to find out.
The auxiliary winding (start winding) is in parallel with the main winding (run winding) via a centrifugal switch. What happens is when voltage is first applied to the motor the current flowing through ''both'' windings creates enough magnetism (torque) to overcome the inertia of the motor from the "at rest" position and it starts to rotate. Once it gets up to speed the centrifugal switch operates and disconnects the start winding (thin wires so don’t want to burn it out) and the motor continues to rotate on the run winding (thick wires) only. The run winding can’t start the motor rotating by itself (but can keep it rotating once it has started and is up to speed) that it why a humming sound is heard as it is trying to turn it, but there is not enough magnetic force being produced by it to do so.
''If there is no voltage at the motor terminals'' then you would have to trace the motor operate wire back to the control board and find out if there is voltage leaving the control board. Not easy without the aid of the wiring diagram
Hi @francis quinn
If the motor continues to operate by itself after manually getting the motor up to speed by using a drill etc then it may well be the motor start winding or the capacitor. I assume that this is what you meant or did you mean that you manually operated the motor all the time?
As suggested, try measuring for voltage at the motor terminals.
'''Be safety aware'''. I'm assuming that it is mains supply voltage to the motor, so be careful.
''If the voltage is there'' but the pump is not starting then it is either the motor start winding or the capacitor.
If the motor has a start capacitor as I suggested it ''might'', given that a capacitor is listed in the parts list, then it is difficult to measure the start winding using an Ohmmeter to see if it is OK as it may be wired as shown here in [https://electricalacademia.com/induction-motor/types-single-phase-induction-motors-single-phase-induction-motor-wiring-diagram/|Fig.2]. You may have to change one or the other to find out.
The auxiliary winding (start winding) is in parallel with the main winding (run winding) via a centrifugal switch. What happens is when voltage is first applied to the motor the current flowing through ''both'' windings creates enough magnetism (torque) to overcome the inertia of the motor from the "at rest" position and it starts to rotate. Once it gets up to speed the centrifugal switch operates and disconnects the start winding (thin wires so don’t want to burn it out) and the motor continues to rotate on the run winding (thick wires) only. The run winding can’t start the motor rotating by itself (but can keep it rotating once it has started and is up to speed) that it why a humming sound is heard as it is trying to turn it, but there is not enough magnetic force being produced by it to do so.
''If there is no voltage at the motor terminals'' then you would have to trace the motor operate wire back to the control board and find out if there is voltage leaving the control board. Not easy without the aid of the wiring diagram