The controller is probably not going to be easy to repair. I have had two of these 1537's that I got as a pair with different issues (bad LB and analog stick drift), so I combined these broken controllers into one. The analog stick issue ended up happening again on my second 1537 controller, so I ended up getting rid of it and looking for a newer controller. I don't recommend repairing this controller, since the controllers seem to have a high enough failure rate that issues with these controllers are common.
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I don't recommend even bothering because this controller is known for high failure rates of the analog sticks (this issue is known to cause analog stick drift), which becomes more of a problem as the controller ages. I even had to recover the firmware on one and did an exchange for the 1697 I use now, and it shows the same signs that always come up when they begin to fail.
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The controller is probably not going to be easy to repair. I have had two of these 1537's that I got as a pair with different issues (bad LB and analog stick drift), so I combined these broken controllers into one. The analog stick issue ended up happening again on my second 1537 controller, so I ended up getting rid of it and looking for a newer controller. I don't recommend repairing this controller, since the controllers seem to have a high enough failure rate that issues with these controllers are common. This non-recommendation is because this specific controller is known for high failure rates of the analog sticks (this issue is known to cause analog stick drift), which becomes more of a problem as the controller ages. I even had to recover the firmware on one and did an exchange for the 1697 I use now, and it shows the same signs that always come up when they begin to fail.
I would recommend trying to find a 1697 controller if you are looking at used ones, but if you want a new one you will need to get the Model 1708 controller. Both the 1697 and 1708 seem to be far more reliable and aren't as troublesome (but they have their own set of issues with the plastic parts, which primarily are caused by a cheap LB/RB assembly).
With that being said, this is either an issue with the [guide|36848|bottom motherboard] or the [guide|36845|controller frame]. If you really want to repair this controller, I'd order both parts and not solder anything until you see the LT trigger works again.
If you replace the frame and it still happens, the bottom motherboard is bad. This exact issue has also happened on my 1537, and it was a frame problem for me.
The controller is probably not going to be easy to repair. I have had two of these 1537's that I got as a pair with different issues (bad LB and analog stick drift), so I combined these broken controllers into one. The analog stick issue ended up happening again on my second 1537 controller, so I ended up getting rid of it and looking for a newer controller. I don't recommend repairing this controller, since the controllers seem to have a high enough failure rate that issues with these controllers are common.
I don't recommend even bothering because this controller is known for high failure rates of the analog sticks (this issue is known to cause analog stick drift), which becomes more of a problem as the controller ages. I even had to recover the firmware on one and did an exchange for the 1697 I use now, and it shows the same signs that always come up when they begin to fail.
I would recommend trying to find a 1697 controller if you are looking at used ones, but if you want a new one you will need to get the Model 1708 controller. Both the 1697 and 1708 seem to be far more reliable and aren't as troublesome (but they have their own set of issues with the plastic parts, which primarily are caused by a cheap LB/RB assembly).
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With that being said, this is either an issue with the [guide|36848|bottom motherboard]) or the [guide|36845|controller frame]. If you really want to repair this controller, I'd order both parts and not solder anything until you see the LT trigger works again.
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With that being said, this is either an issue with the [guide|36848|bottom motherboard] or the [guide|36845|controller frame]. If you really want to repair this controller, I'd order both parts and not solder anything until you see the LT trigger works again.
If you replace the frame and it still happens, the bottom motherboard is bad. This exact issue has also happened on my 1537, and it was a frame problem for me.
The controller is probably not going to be easy to repair. I have had two of these 1537's that I got as a pair with different issues (bad LB and analog stick drift), so I combined these broken controllers into one. The analog stick issue ended up happening again on my second 1537 controller, so I ended up getting rid of it and looking for a newer controller. I don't recommend repairing this controller, since the controllers seem to have a high enough failure rate that issues with these controllers are common.
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I don't recommend even bothering because this controller is known for high failure rates of the analog sticks (causes analog stick drift), which becomes more of a problem as the controller ages. I even had to recover the firmware on one and did an exchange for the 1697 I use now, and it shows the same signs that always come up when they begin to fail.
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I don't recommend even bothering because this controller is known for high failure rates of the analog sticks (this issue is known to cause analog stick drift), which becomes more of a problem as the controller ages. I even had to recover the firmware on one and did an exchange for the 1697 I use now, and it shows the same signs that always come up when they begin to fail.
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I would recommend trying to find a 1697 controller if you are looking at used ones, but if you want a new one you will need to get the Model 1708 controller. Both the 1697 and 1708 seem to be far more reliable and aren't as troublesome (but they have their own set of issues with the plastic parts, which primarily are caused by a cheap LB/RB assembly).
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With that being said, this is either an issue with the [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Xbox+One+Wireless+Controller+Bottom+Motherboard+Replacement/36848|bottom motherboard]) or the [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Xbox+One+Wireless+Controller+Buttons+Replacement/36845|controller frame]. If you really want to repair this controller, I'd order both parts and not solder anything until you see the LT trigger works again.
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With that being said, this is either an issue with the [guide|36848|bottom motherboard]) or the [guide|36845|controller frame]. If you really want to repair this controller, I'd order both parts and not solder anything until you see the LT trigger works again.
If you replace the frame and it still happens, the bottom motherboard is bad. This exact issue has also happened on my 1537, and it was a frame problem for me.
The controller is probably not going to be easy to repair. I have had two of these 1537's that I got as a pair with different issues (bad LB and analog stick drift), so I combined the two into one controller. This issue even happened on my repaired 1537 controller. I haven't had much luck with these 1537's. Of the controllers I have either owned from being given bad ones (or worked on), the 1537 seems to break the most.
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The controller is probably not going to be easy to repair. I have had two of these 1537's that I got as a pair with different issues (bad LB and analog stick drift), so I combined these broken controllers into one. The analog stick issue ended up happening again on my second 1537 controller, so I ended up getting rid of it and looking for a newer controller. I don't recommend repairing this controller, since the controllers seem to have a high enough failure rate that issues with these controllers are common.
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I don't recommend even bothering because this controller is known for high failure rates of the analog sticks (causes analog stick drift), which becomes more of a problem as the controller ages. I even had to recover the firmware on one and did an exchange for the 1697 I use now, and it shows the same signs that always come up when they begin to fail.
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I would recommend trying to find a 1697 controller if you are looking at used ones, but if you want a new one you will need to get the Model 1708 controller. Both the 1697 and 1708 seem to be far more reliable and aren't as troublesome (but they have their own set of issues with the plastic parts, which primarily are caused by a cheap LB/RB assembly).
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The way the controller is designed means that when this happens, you are dealing with a bad LT button (new frame) or the primary board with all of the primary components is bad. If you replace the frame and it still happens, the primary board is bad (It happened on a different frame for me too, so the board is probably bad although I still have it).
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With that being said, this is either an issue with the [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Xbox+One+Wireless+Controller+Bottom+Motherboard+Replacement/36848|bottom motherboard]) or the [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Xbox+One+Wireless+Controller+Buttons+Replacement/36845|controller frame]. If you really want to repair this controller, I'd order both parts and not solder anything until you see the LT trigger works again.
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With all of that being said, I would advise against repair of this controller - the 1537 is very unreliable and is plagued with problems (a lot of them have analog stick drift issues). The main issue is they always seem to fail in some way. Find a 1697 or 1708 to replace it - both of them seem to be far more reliable then the 1537 (although the 1697/98 and 1708 has LB/RB assembly problems from flimsy factory plastic, which isn't a problem on non OEM replacements). I much prefer the 1697/98 and 1708 over the 1537 any day.
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I have had 2 1537's (and recovered firmware on another one) so I have seen how bad this controller truly is more then once.
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If you replace the frame and it still happens, the bottom motherboard is bad. This exact issue has also happened on my 1537, and it was a frame problem for me.
The controller is probably not going to be easy to repair. I have had two of these 1536's that I got as a pair with different issues (bad LB and analog stick drift), so I combined the two into one controller. This issue even happened on my repaired 1536 controller. I haven't had much luck with these 1536's. Of the controllers I have either owned from being given bad ones (or worked on), the 1536 seems to break the most.
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The controller is probably not going to be easy to repair. I have had two of these 1537's that I got as a pair with different issues (bad LB and analog stick drift), so I combined the two into one controller. This issue even happened on my repaired 1537 controller. I haven't had much luck with these 1537's. Of the controllers I have either owned from being given bad ones (or worked on), the 1537 seems to break the most.
The way the controller is designed means that when this happens, you are dealing with a bad LT button (new frame) or the primary board with all of the primary components is bad. If you replace the frame and it still happens, the primary board is bad (It happened on a different frame for me too, so the board is probably bad although I still have it).
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With all of that being said, I would advise against repair of this controller - the 1536 is very unreliable and is plagued with problems (a lot of them have analog stick drift issues). The main issue is they always seem to fail in some way. Find a 1697 or 1708 to replace it - both of them seem to be far more reliable then the 1536 (although the 1697/98 and 1708 has LB/RB assembly problems from flimsy factory plastic, which isn't a problem on non OEM replacements). I much prefer the 1697/98 and 1708 over the 1536 any day.
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With all of that being said, I would advise against repair of this controller - the 1537 is very unreliable and is plagued with problems (a lot of them have analog stick drift issues). The main issue is they always seem to fail in some way. Find a 1697 or 1708 to replace it - both of them seem to be far more reliable then the 1537 (although the 1697/98 and 1708 has LB/RB assembly problems from flimsy factory plastic, which isn't a problem on non OEM replacements). I much prefer the 1697/98 and 1708 over the 1537 any day.
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I have had 2 1536's (and recovered firmware on another one) so I have seen how bad this controller truly is more then once.
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I have had 2 1537's (and recovered firmware on another one) so I have seen how bad this controller truly is more then once.
The controller is probably not going to be easy to repair. I have had two of these 1536's that I got as a pair with different issues (bad LB and analog stick drift), so I combined the two into one controller. This issue even happened on my repaired 1536 controller. I haven't had much luck with these 1536's, since they all seem to break on me, so none of this surprises me.
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The controller is probably not going to be easy to repair. I have had two of these 1536's that I got as a pair with different issues (bad LB and analog stick drift), so I combined the two into one controller. This issue even happened on my repaired 1536 controller. I haven't had much luck with these 1536's. Of the controllers I have either owned from being given bad ones (or worked on), the 1536 seems to break the most.
The way the controller is designed means that when this happens, you are dealing with a bad LT button (new frame) or the primary board with all of the primary components is bad. If you replace the frame and it still happens, the primary board is bad (It happened on a different frame for me too, so the board is probably bad although I still have it).
With all of that being said, I would advise against repair of this controller - the 1536 is very unreliable and is plagued with problems (a lot of them have analog stick drift issues). The main issue is they always seem to fail in some way. Find a 1697 or 1708 to replace it - both of them seem to be far more reliable then the 1536 (although the 1697/98 and 1708 has LB/RB assembly problems from flimsy factory plastic, which isn't a problem on non OEM replacements). I much prefer the 1697/98 and 1708 over the 1536 any day.
I have had 2 1536's (and recovered firmware on another one) so I have seen how bad this controller truly is more then once.
The controller is probably not going to be easy to repair. I have had two of these 1536's that I got as a pair with different issues (bad LB and analog stick drift), so I combined the two into one controller. This issue even happened on my repaired 1536 controller. I haven't had much luck with these 1536's, since they all seem to break on me, so none of this surprises me.
The way the controller is designed means that when this happens, you are dealing with a bad LT button (new frame) or the primary board with all of the primary components is bad. If you replace the frame and it still happens, the primary board is bad (It happened on a different frame for me too, so the board is probably bad although I still have it).
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With all of that being said, I would advise against repair of this controller - the 1536 is very unreliable and is plagued with problems (a lot of them have analog stick drift issues). The main issue is they always seem to fail in some way. Find a 1697 or 1708 to replace it - both of them seem to be far more reliable then the 1536 (although the 1697 has LB/RB assembly problems). I much prefer the 1697/98 and 1708 over the 1536 any day.
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With all of that being said, I would advise against repair of this controller - the 1536 is very unreliable and is plagued with problems (a lot of them have analog stick drift issues). The main issue is they always seem to fail in some way. Find a 1697 or 1708 to replace it - both of them seem to be far more reliable then the 1536 (although the 1697/98 and 1708 has LB/RB assembly problems from flimsy factory plastic, which isn't a problem on non OEM replacements). I much prefer the 1697/98 and 1708 over the 1536 any day.
I have had 2 1536's (and recovered firmware on another one) so I have seen how bad this controller truly is more then once.
The controller is probably not going to be easy to repair. I have had two of these 1536's that I got as a pair with different issues (bad LT and analog stick drift), so I combined the two into one controller. This issue even happened on my repaired 1536 controller. I haven't had much luck with these 1536's, since they all seem to break on me, so none of this surprises me.
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The controller is probably not going to be easy to repair. I have had two of these 1536's that I got as a pair with different issues (bad LB and analog stick drift), so I combined the two into one controller. This issue even happened on my repaired 1536 controller. I haven't had much luck with these 1536's, since they all seem to break on me, so none of this surprises me.
The way the controller is designed means that when this happens, you are dealing with a bad LT button (new frame) or the primary board with all of the primary components is bad. If you replace the frame and it still happens, the primary board is bad (It happened on a different frame for me too, so the board is probably bad although I still have it).
With all of that being said, I would advise against repair of this controller - the 1536 is very unreliable and is plagued with problems (a lot of them have analog stick drift issues). The main issue is they always seem to fail in some way. Find a 1697 or 1708 to replace it - both of them seem to be far more reliable then the 1536 (although the 1697 has LB/RB assembly problems). I much prefer the 1697/98 and 1708 over the 1536 any day.
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I have had 2 1536's (and recovered firmware on another one) so I have seen how bad this controller truly is more then once.
The controller is probably not going to be easy to repair. I have had two(!!!) that I got that were both broken in one lot with different issues. I combined the two into one good controller. This issue happened on the one I repaired and I never got far with fixing it, but I have had enough issues with these controllers that I'm not surprised.
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The controller is probably not going to be easy to repair. I have had two of these 1536's that I got as a pair with different issues (bad LT and analog stick drift), so I combined the two into one controller. This issue even happened on my repaired 1536 controller. I haven't had much luck with these 1536's, since they all seem to break on me, so none of this surprises me.
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The way the controller is designed means that when this happens, you are dealing with a bad LT button (new frame) or the primary board is bad. If you replace the frame and it still happens, you are looking at a new board to fix the issue (which was the case with mine - I had a spare frame and still had the problem). With that being said, I would advise against repair of this controller - the 1536 is not reliable and is plagued with multiple problems. They always seem to fail in some fashion without fail. Find a 1697 or 1708 to replace it - both of them seem to be far more reliable then the 1536 anyway.
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The way the controller is designed means that when this happens, you are dealing with a bad LT button (new frame) or the primary board with all of the primary components is bad. If you replace the frame and it still happens, the primary board is bad (It happened on a different frame for me too, so the board is probably bad although I still have it).
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This probably isn't the answer you wanted, but it's coming from someone who has had 2 1536's, and just got a 1697 that was solid, other then a broken LB/RB assembly. I had to recover firmware on a 1536, and that was even showing signs of analog stick drift.
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With all of that being said, I would advise against repair of this controller - the 1536 is very unreliable and is plagued with problems (a lot of them have analog stick drift issues). The main issue is they always seem to fail in some way. Find a 1697 or 1708 to replace it - both of them seem to be far more reliable then the 1536 (although the 1697 has LB/RB assembly problems). I much prefer the 1697/98 and 1708 over the 1536 any day.
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I have had 2 1536's (and recovered firmware on another one) so I have seen how bad this controller truly is more then once.
The controller is probably not going to be easy to repair. I have had two(!!!) that I got that were both broken in one lot with different issues. I combined the two into one good controller. This issue happened on the one I repaired and I never got far with fixing it, but I have had enough issues with these controllers that I'm not surprised.
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The way the controller is designed means that when this happens, you are dealing with a bad LT button (new frame) or the primary board is bad. If you replace the frame and it still happens, you are looking at a new board to fix the issue. With that being said, I would advise against repair of this controller - the 1536 is not reliable and is plagued with multiple problems. They always seem to fail in some fashion without fail. Find a 1697 or 1708 to replace it - both of them seem to be far more reliable then the 1536 anyway.
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The way the controller is designed means that when this happens, you are dealing with a bad LT button (new frame) or the primary board is bad. If you replace the frame and it still happens, you are looking at a new board to fix the issue (which was the case with mine - I had a spare frame and still had the problem). With that being said, I would advise against repair of this controller - the 1536 is not reliable and is plagued with multiple problems. They always seem to fail in some fashion without fail. Find a 1697 or 1708 to replace it - both of them seem to be far more reliable then the 1536 anyway.
This probably isn't the answer you wanted, but it's coming from someone who has had 2 1536's, and just got a 1697 that was solid, other then a broken LB/RB assembly. I had to recover firmware on a 1536, and that was even showing signs of analog stick drift.
The controller is probably not going to be easy to repair. I have had two(!!!) that I got that were both broken in one lot with different issues. I combined the two into one good controller. This issue happened on the one I repaired.
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The controller is probably not going to be easy to repair. I have had two(!!!) that I got that were both broken in one lot with different issues. I combined the two into one good controller. This issue happened on the one I repaired and I never got far with fixing it, but I have had enough issues with these controllers that I'm not surprised.
The way the controller is designed means that when this happens, you are dealing with a bad LT button (new frame) or the primary board is bad. If you replace the frame and it still happens, you are looking at a new board to fix the issue. With that being said, I would advise against repair of this controller - the 1536 is not reliable and is plagued with multiple problems. They always seem to fail in some fashion without fail. Find a 1697 or 1708 to replace it - both of them seem to be far more reliable then the 1536 anyway.
This probably isn't the answer you wanted, but it's coming from someone who has had 2 1536's, and just got a 1697 that was solid, other then a broken LB/RB assembly. I had to recover firmware on a 1536, and that was even showing signs of analog stick drift.
The controller is probably not going to be easy to repair. I have had two(!!!) that I got that were both broken in one lot with different issues. I combined the two into one good controller. This issue happened on the one I repaired.
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The way the controller is designed means that when this happens, the primary board with the analog sticks is bad. The only way to really repair it is to do board level repair or buy a known good board and hope it doesn't happen again, at least with the 1536. The 1536 is plagued with so many issues (analogstick drift is the primary issue) that repair of these is not economically viable, since they will break in some other way without fail. I wouldn't repair this controller and would just buy a 1697 or 1708 to replace it - both of them seem to be far more reliable then the 1536 anyway.
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The way the controller is designed means that when this happens, you are dealing with a bad LT button (new frame) or the primary board is bad. If you replace the frame and it still happens, you are looking at a new board to fix the issue. With that being said, I would advise against repair of this controller - the 1536 is not reliable and is plagued with multiple problems. They always seem to fail in some fashion without fail. Find a 1697 or 1708 to replace it - both of them seem to be far more reliable then the 1536 anyway.
This probably isn't the answer you wanted, but it's coming from someone who has had 2 1536's, and just got a 1697 that was solid, other then a broken LB/RB assembly. I had to recover firmware on a 1536, and that was even showing signs of analog stick drift.
The controller is probably not going to be easy to repair. I have had two(!!!) that I got that were both broken in one lot with different issues. I combined the two into one good controller. This issue happened on the one I repaired.
The way the controller is designed means that when this happens, the primary board with the analog sticks is bad. The only way to really repair it is to do board level repair or buy a known good board and hope it doesn't happen again, at least with the 1536. The 1536 is plagued with so many issues (analog stick drift is the primary issue) that repair of these is not economically viable, since they will break in some other way without fail. I wouldn't repair this controller and would just buy a 1697 or 1708 to replace it - both of them seem to be far more reliable then the 1536 anyway.
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This probably isn't the answer you wanted, but it's coming from someone who has had 2 1536's, and just got a 1697 that was solid, other then a broken LB/RB assembly. I even had to recover firmware on a 1536, and that was even showing signs of analog stick drift.
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This probably isn't the answer you wanted, but it's coming from someone who has had 2 1536's, and just got a 1697 that was solid, other then a broken LB/RB assembly. I had to recover firmware on a 1536, and that was even showing signs of analog stick drift.
The controller is probably not going to be easy to repair. I have had two(!!!) that I got that were both broken in one lot with different issues. I combined the two into one good controller. This issue happened on the one I repaired.
The way the controller is designed means that when this happens, the primary board with the analog sticks is bad. The only way to really repair it is to do board level repair or buy a known good board and hope it doesn't happen again, at least with the 1536. The 1536 is plagued with so many issues (analog stick drift is the primary issue) that repair of these is not economically viable, since they will break in some other way without fail. I wouldn't repair this controller and would just buy a 1697 or 1708 to replace it - both of them seem to be far more reliable then the 1536 anyway.
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This probably isn't the answer you wanted, but it's coming from someone who has had 2 1536's, and just got a 1697 that was solid, other then a broken LB/RB assembly. I even had to recover firmware on a 1536, and that was even showing signs of analog stick drift.
The controller is probably not going to be easy to repair. I have had two(!!!) that I got that were both broken in one lot and combined into one good controller. This issue happened on one of them.
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The controller is probably not going to be easy to repair. I have had two(!!!) that I got that were both broken in one lot with different issues. I combined the two into one good controller. This issue happened on the one I repaired.
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The way the controller is designed means that when this happens, the primary board with the analog sticks is bad. The only way to really repair it is to do board level repair or buy a known good board and hope it doesn't happen again, at least with the 1536. The 1536 is plagued with so many issues that repair of these is not economically viable, since they will break in some other way without fail. I wouldn't repair this controller and would just buy a 1697 or 1708 to replace it - both of them seem to be far more reliable then the 1536 anyway.
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The way the controller is designed means that when this happens, the primary board with the analog sticks is bad. The only way to really repair it is to do board level repair or buy a known good board and hope it doesn't happen again, at least with the 1536. The 1536 is plagued with so many issues (analog stick drift is the primary issue) that repair of these is not economically viable, since they will break in some other way without fail. I wouldn't repair this controller and would just buy a 1697 or 1708 to replace it - both of them seem to be far more reliable then the 1536 anyway.
The controller is probably not going to be easy to repair. I have had two(!!!) that I got that were both broken in one lot and combined into one good controller. This issue happened on one of them.
The way the controller is designed means that when this happens, the primary board with the analog sticks is bad. The only way to really repair it is to do board level repair or buy a known good board and hope it doesn't happen again, at least with the 1536. The 1536 is plagued with so many issues that repair of these is not economically viable, since they will break in some other way without fail. I wouldn't repair this controller and would just buy a 1697 or 1708 to replace it - both of them seem to be far more reliable then the 1536 anyway.