はじめに

このガイドを使ってリアカメラを交換します。

ビデオの概要

  1. 作業を始める前に、バッテリーの残量を25%以下まで消費してください。充電されたリチウムイオンバッテリーにアクシデントで穴を開けてしまうと、引火や爆発の原因となります。
    • 作業を始める前に、バッテリーの残量を25%以下まで消費してください。充電されたリチウムイオンバッテリーにアクシデントで穴を開けてしまうと、引火や爆発の原因となります。

    • iPhoneの電源を必ず切ってください。

    • Lightningコネクター両側の3.6 mmペンタロープネジ2本を外します。

    I prefer to remove the SIM card as the very first step since it's safer to do so while the phone is fully assembled.

    estebanfallasf - 返信

    I stripped one of the two screws - at a dead stop.

    Margaret Patterson - 返信

    • 次の2つの手順ではiPhone 6 Plusを安全に開口できる素晴らしいツールiSclackの使い方を紹介します。1回だけの修理に終わらない方には最適の工具です。iSclackをご利用になられない方は手順4までスキップしてください。

    • プラスチックのデプスゲージが iSclack中央に挟まっている場合は外してください。 iPhone 6 Plusのような大型のデバイスには必要ありません。

    • iSclackのハンドルを閉じ、吸盤カップを開きます。

    • iPhone下部本体を吸盤カップの間に配置します。

      • ディスプレイ側の吸盤カップはホームボタン付近に装着します。

    • ハンドルを開いてiSclackの両カップを閉じます。吸盤カップをiPhoneの両側にしっかりと取り付けます。

    コメントを追加する

    • iPhoneをしっかりと持ち、 iSclackのハンドルを閉めながら吸盤カップを両側へ開いていきます。背面ケースからフロントパネルが引き上がってきます。

    • iSclackは安全にiPhoneを開口できるよう設計されていますが、ディスプレイケーブルに損傷を与えてしまうことがあります。

    • iPhoneから2つの吸盤カップを外します。

    • 次の3つの手順をスキップして手順7までお進みください。

    It's very difficult if you want to remove a cracked screen. The suction cup and Islack won't work. Does anybody know a better way?

    Herbert - 返信

    I use Scotch Tape, shipping tape. Put a couple of layers over the crack screen. That seals it so you can use the suction cup to remove the front of phone.

    Michael Wallace -

    I used the plastic pry took and the spudger to open it up. I place the pry tool dead center below the home button and was able to put some pressure around the seam and the top popped up enough for me to get the spudger in there to hold it open and then work my way around with the plastic pry tool.

    johnoconna -

    Apply clear packaging tape to screen. Then suction cup to that.

    Tracey -

    Use clear nontextured tape place that over the phone screen. Refer to any guide that addresses replacing a shattered screen

    Abigail Cherry - 返信

    I know it's tough with cracked glass. You just need enough to get in a plstic pry tool or guitar pick. Then you can pry it apart. Just be patient, I cannot stress that enough; the electronics are very, very small and fragile.

    Mike - 返信

    • iSclackをお持ちでない場合、シングルタイプの吸盤カップをつかってフロントパネルを引き上げます。

      • 吸盤カップをホームボタン上のスクリーンに押し当てます。

      • カップがスクリーンにしっかりと固定しているか確認します。

    Avec la ventouse, l’ouverture est brutale, tout s’est déclipsé d’un seul coup. Faire attention.

    Paul Briffaut - 返信

    English Please!

    tom mozeleski -

    With the sucker, the opening is brutal, everything was cleared at once. Pay attention. (Paul’s comment translated by Google)

    Steve Schlotter - 返信

    • 片手で iPhoneを押さえながら、吸盤カップを引き上げて、ゆっくりとリアケースからフロントパネルアセンブリを離します。

      • 時間をかけてゆっくりと、同じ強さ加減で作業を進めます。他のデバイスに比べてより強固に接着されています。

    • プラスチックの開口ツールを使って隙間に差し込み、リアケースからディスプレイアセンブリを丁寧にこじ開け、吸盤カップで持ち上げます。

    • フロントパネルアセンブリをリアケースに固定させているクリップが幾つかあります。吸盤カップとプラスチック製開口ツールの両方を使いながら、フロントパネルアセンブリを外してくださ。

    Be extra careful here. If you don’t take your time, your front panel may jerk back on you, causing you to overextend and break the front camera/mic flex cable; happened to me. Slowly peel back the front panel, opening it no more than 90º.

    Thomas - 返信

    watch out for the left side of the phone the adhesive bunches up around the inner clips, i didn’t realize it and the upper left of my screen cracked pretty bad. But this guide is awesome follow every direction to the letter

    Aaron Fitzpatrick - 返信

    • 吸盤カップ中央のグリップを持ち上げて、吸引力を緩めます。

    • 吸盤カップをディスプレイアセンブリから取り外します。

    コメントを追加する

    • 本体上部先端を蝶番にして、背面ケースからフロントパネルアセンブリのホームボタン端を引き上げます。

    • 約90度の角度でディスプレイを開け、後ろに立て掛けて固定できる衝立を置きます。

      • ゴムバンドでディスプレイと衝立を留めて動かないようにします。これはディスプレイケーブルがアクシデントで引き伸ばされるのを防ぐためです。

      • 急ぎの場合は未開封の飲料用缶を使用できます。

    Be careful If we leave the screen connected and set it to 90 degrees, the speaker / sensor flex may break. With an opening of 60 degrees it is convenient to completely disconnect the screen. The headset's flex is short, and if we put it at 90º, it can break. Guiding me from the images of iFixit, I have broken two cables.

    Español:

    Cuidado. Si dejamos la pantalla conectada y lo ponemos a 90 grados, el flex del altavoz/sensor puede romperse. Con una abertura de 60 grados es conveniente desconectar enteramente la pantalla. El flex del auricular es corto, y si lo ponemos en 90º , se puede romper. Guiándome de las imágenes de iFixit, se me han roto dos cables.

    txaukos - 返信

    At 60º the display will block access to all the screws and the phone would be practically unserviceable, so I’m having trouble making sense of this comment. The cables on a factory original display are pretty tough and designed with enough slack that a 90º angle is no problem. Same with any decent aftermarket display.

    Jeff Suovanen - 返信

    If you look at the enlarged image, you can see how the flex cable from the camera / speaker is in tension. This is my opinion. Sorry for my bad English

    Si usted se fija en la imagen ampliada, puede ver cómo el flex cable de la cámara/altavoz está en tensión. Esta es mi opinión.

    Perdón por mi mal inglés

    txaukos - 返信

    • フロントパネル上部に留められた幾つかのクリップを蝶番のようにして、本をめくるようにフロントパネルアセンブリを開きます。

    • 再組み立ての際は、クリップが背面ケース上部端のちょうど真下になるように配置します。それからフロントパネル上部先端と背面ケース上部先端が重なるまで上方にスライドします。

    I would recommend protecting the screen once the display is free and the suction cup has been removed. This will help avoid any possibility of accidental scratching of the display crystal while the remaining steps are being performed. I used an inexpensive screen protector then removed it after reassembling and testing are complete.

    anthonyspampinato - 返信

  2. Fixmasのスピリットを広めましょう
    クーポンコードFIXMAS12を使えば、50ドル以上のお買い上げで12ドル割引となります。
    Fixmasのスピリットを広めましょう
    クーポンコードFIXMAS12を使えば、50ドル以上のお買い上げで12ドル割引となります。
    • 次のプラスネジをバッテリーコネクターブラケットから外します。

      • 2.3 mm プラスネジ ー1本

      • 3.1 mm プラスネジー1本

    for the iPhone 6 Plus, all screws were Phillips #000

    Michael Adams - 返信

    The screw circled in red won't come out and I'm using a 1.2 screw driver

    Sierra - 返信

    I had difficulty removing the 3.1mm (iPhone 6 Plus / Phillips #000); had to give it significant downward pressure to get it started.

    Allen Matheson - 返信

    stripped the 2.3mm screw attempting to remove, had to use excessive force to successfully remove

    Matthew Gao - 返信

    The Phillips bits provided in the kit would not engage the Phillips heads enough to loosen them. Luckily I had my own small screwdriver set that worked like a charm.

    David Davis - 返信

    Same issue. Could not remove the screw. Dead in the water.

    Tiffany - 返信

    • iPhoneからメタル製バッテリーコネクターブラケットを取り出します。

    Was not able to remove the battery connector bracket as one of the cable connectors was glued/stuck to the underside. Instead moved the bracket out of the way to disconnect the battery. Care should be taken not to over bend/stretch the ribbon cable.

    dwtan - 返信

    That may be just the foam connector adhering to the bracket. If you pull up gently and twist slightly it should separate.

    Evan Noronha -

    It was the foam connector, and it did twist free with a gentle pull

    Al Taylor - 返信

    • 基板上のソケットからバッテリーコネクターの接続を外します。

    • バッテリーコネクターのみにツールを差し込んで持ち上げてください。基板のソケットに接触しないでください。コネクター全体を破損してしまうことがあります。

    you may consider placing a thin non-conductive item between the connector and the socket like a bit of rubber band to prevent any power flowing during this procedure

    Michael Adams - 返信

    It was too close to other parts to pry up with either end of plastic tool. Finally used 1 tine of tweezer to lift edge. Came free easily

    Al Taylor - 返信

    J’ai pris une loupe pour bien observer l’endroit où placer l’outil.

    Paul Briffaut - 返信

    Magnification is key for many tasks and this is certainly one.

    Kenneth Gilbert - 返信

    • フロントパネルを90度に開いた状態で固定し、フロントパネルアセンブリーのケーブルブラケットに留められたネジを外します。

      • 1.2 mm ネジー3本

      • 1.5 mm ネジー1本

      • 2.9 mm ネジー1本

    • 絶対に赤い丸印のネジ穴に長いネジを差し込まないでください。基板にダメージを与えてしまいます。

    There's an other panel with one screw in the middle.........

    Herbert - 返信

    I _love_ the color coding of screws. I know this is a little OCD, but it would be incredibly useful if there were an 8.5 X 11 you could print with indicated homes for where to drop items from each step of disassembly. That is, in the box for step 9, little colored circles for where to place each screw type. As long as you don't jostle the paper, it would make it a lot easier to know exactly where you are in reassembly.

    cscarlson47shop - 返信

    I have done the exact same thing. Created a sheet where each screw goes.

    Chris Murphy -

    On my iPhone 6 plus, none of the screws listed in this step are removable with the Phillips 00 screwdriver! I got this far and now am stymied because I can't get these four screws out! Any other screwdrivers I should use?

    garth libhart - 返信

    You are absolutely right, and you will strip the heads if you try very hard with the PH00. These screws are all PH000.

    oscar -

    I used the 000 bit from the ifixit 54 piece kit.

    hhandh - 返信

    Actually you don’t need to do steps 12 to 18 if you attach the display panel to the iPhone box as shown in step 7 and handle your iPhone with care during the replacement. I didn’t disconnect the display panel mainly because the more you work on the interior of your phone the higher is the chance you break something.

    Dany Castillo - 返信

    That's what I was thinking.

    The Wizard - 返信

    I skipped this series of steps too. I was very careful when removing the battery and never had an issue with the screen leaning back against the box that this battery shipped in. I even broke half of the third strip of adhesive but used a plastic card to slide under the battery and it slowly lifted out without applying heat.

    mark - 返信

    I'm having trouble with one screw not wanting to come out. Any suggestions to keep from stripping the head and getting it?

    Patric - 返信

    which screws are which sizes cause i ordered new ones and cant figure it out

    MONsterHEIT - 返信

    I also did not see the need to remove the display assembly for this repair. However I did place a can of corn against the vertically positioned display and then secured the display to the can with a rubber band.

    whiteshephard - 返信

    I recommend removing the display assembly, I didn’t and somehow damaged the home button cable. At least remove the cover to ease the tension on the cables.

    Steve Schlotter - 返信

    I played around with different screwdrivers to get certain screws out. I made sure I wasn’t applying heavy pressure so I wouldn’t strip the head. Apple is crazy for doing this to us lol.

    Anyways invest in a magnetized mat to organize your screws. It was really difficult to keep things organized and still, especially with these tiny screws…

    Jeffrey Robinos - 返信

    what happens if i forgot to put the ribbon cable shield back on? the phone is now working but i forgot to put the shield back on and i am missing 2 screws. can i leave the shield off?

    Fred ticoman. - 返信

    @ticoman12 It’ll work without the shield, but the connectors may pop out unexpectedly.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    • 基板からフロントパネルアセンブリのケーブルブラケットを取り外します。

    コメントを追加する

    • 次の4つの手順ではケーブルコネクターのみこじ開けます。基板上のケーブルコネクター用ソケットには接触しないでください。

    • フロントパネルを90度で固定したまま、プラスチックの開口ツールを使って、正面カメラと前面側マイクのケーブルコネクターの接続を外します。

    Why does the screen need to come off?

    Sterling Coffey (N0SSC) - 返信

    Because the cables are delicate, and following steps are easier if phone halves are not flopping around together, especially for amateurs.

    Matthew Goheen - 返信

    • プラスチックの開口ツールを使って、ホームボタンケーブルコネクターの接続を外します。

    コメントを追加する

    • プラスチックの開口ツールを使って、ディスプレイデータのケーブルコネクターの接続を外します。

    • デバイスを再組み立てする際は、本体ディスプレイのデータケーブルがコネクターから飛び出すことがあります。これは電源スイッチを入れた時、黒い画面に白い線が表れる原因となります。この症状が現れた場合は一度ケーブルを再接続して、再起動してください。電話を再起動する一番ベストな方法は、バッテリーコネクターの接続を切ってから再び再接続します。

    The piece of advice about power cycling the phone by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery proved crucial to the success of my repair (camera and lens replacement). At first when charging the phone after closing it, I got a dark, blank screen with an intermittent buzzing noise. After re-opening the phone and making sure all cables had been properly reconnected, I ignored the advice to power cycle the phone. Still all I got was a dark, blank screen (and intermittent buzzing if charging t). Then I opened it a third time (leaving the screen connected and attached at a 90 degree angle) and I only disconnected and reconnected the battery. Voila! When I closed the phone and powered it up, I got the screen to light up!

    Gianni - 返信

    how did you disconnect and reconnect the battery?

    Teresa Trevino - 返信

    If you’ve been following the guide, you already disconnected it in this step. To reconnect it, just line up the connector and press it into place.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    • 最後に、プラスチックの開口ツールをつかってデジタライザーケーブルコネクターの接続を外します。

    • デジタイザーケーブルを再接続する際は、コネクターの中央部分を押さないでください。コネクターの端一方を押してから、もう片方を押し込みます。コネクターの中央を押してしまうと、コンポーネントを曲げてしまい、デジタイザーにダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。

    some images and guidance regarding reassembly would be helpful. You don't need to use the spudger to get them back on: fingers are better because there's a really subtle click you feel when you get them seated properly.

    cscarlson47shop - 返信

    When you're reassembling, a note that this is the step where you should test for proper screen function would be really useful. First time I reassembled, I didn't seat something properly, got all the screws back together and then realized the screen wasn't functioning properly. Had to disassemble back down to step 14 and then re-reassemble.

    cscarlson47shop - 返信

    I am having this issues right now! I have unplugged and plugged in these cables at least 20 times and each time I get white lines. I finally have it to where there are only 4 white lines and I am almost willing to live with it. Any suggestions?

    mattmay002 -

    Clean the screen connectors incase they are not making a clean connection

    Karen Jones - 返信

    I'm having nightmares with the digitizer connector. Simply can't get it to work unless I'm applying some pressure on the connectors. Everything seems almost microscopically clean. Any suggestions friends?

    Henry A -

    could it be the replacement screen? test with your old screen and see if you have the same problem.

    ChiangFeng - 返信

    To ++mattmay002++  Did you power cycle the phone? Check out the comments on the previous step for a how to.

    Robert Liles - 返信

    I had issues with it too. When connecting this cable, make sure to rock finger side to side after connecting. It’s a wide connector so try to listen for 2 clicks on this one connector. That’s how I fixed mine

    Albert Einstein - 返信

    Re-attaching this cable is the only tricky part to replacing the battery on my 6+. It had a bow on the middle that I had to flatten out before pressing the connector on with finger first on one edge and then on the other. I had white tire tracks on the screen and no touch screen until I connected it correctly. The front has to rest in just the right place on the back while attaching this thing so the cables aren’t strained the front doesn’t fall down. Small fingers would be a plus at this step.

    richard - 返信

    Reseating these connectors on reassembly is definitely the most difficult part of this repair. It took me several attempts before the lowermost connector would seat properly and I did accidentally bend it slightly in the process. Fortunately I was able to get it straight again and get it to click in. The other three went in fine though and no lasting damage seems to have been done.

    Andy Gibbons - 返信

    Another thing - These cables can become overlapped in the wrong way and make you think they are in a different order than they should be. Eg. it’s easy to mix up the ones from step 15 and 17. You can actually unravel the cables and re-layer them on top of each other in any order, so remember this! They look like they’re one solid mass but they’re not.

    domarius - 返信

    • リアケースからフロントパネルアセンブリを取り出します。

    Never remove the screen without disconnecting the battery. It's possible the back light can be blown and that's a even more difficult repair. Always, ALWAYS, disconnect battery before repairing items. (Unless it's not possible.)

    Marvin Ballard - 返信

    How do you disconnect the battery from the screen?

    Shamil Bhatti -

    The Step 11 disconnects the battery :)

    jeffxtechs - 返信

    I think you mean Step 8 :)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    How do you disconnect the battery

    I tried it once and

    Brian - 返信

    And what? I tried it once and here’s a million dollars?

    Oh I get it… they got him! :(

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlznqpBg...

    domarius -

    When disassembling the iphone at this point note the cables, and there placement/orientation.

    GERARD SZAREK - 返信

    • ピンセットを使って、リアケースとリアカメラを固定している隠れたネジのテープカバーを取り出します。

    コメントを追加する

    • リアケースに留められたリアカメラのブラケットから次のネジを外します。

      • 1.7 mm プラス#00 ネジー1本

      • 2.3 mm プラス#00 ネジー1本

    Careful to not unscrew the screw right below the 2.3 mm one circled in orange. I did it and some mystery part that was attached to the camera bracket broke off as it was attached to that screw and pretty fragile !

    nanomeko - 返信

    The part that fell off is the nfc cable for apple pay which is housed behind the camera

    nanomeko - 返信

    • リアカメラブラケットからリアカメラを持ち上げて外します。

    There is a small ribbon cable under the right screw tab, it sticks to the bottom of the bracket. Be careful to separate them when lifting away the bracket and don't rip off the cable.

    Steve Berardi - 返信

    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットからリアカメラコネクターの接続を外します。

    コメントを追加する

    • 丁寧にiPhoneからリアカメラを持ち上げて取り出します。

    Does anyone know if the bracket that the camera module rests in, is removable?

    I bought a new back housing, but I don't see anywhere if the bracket is removable. I don't even think it was removed by the ifixit team during the teardown...

    Will - 返信

まとめ

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

98 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:

100%

Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています! 貢献してみませんか?
翻訳を始める ›

Walter Galan

572,637 ポイント

1,203のガイドは作成済み

Great how-to article. I was able to follow it and fix my son's camera within an hour. Patience is key -- take your time and stay organized and you'll get through this.

Josh Gormley - 返信

Great guide, replacement worked a treat!

eric - 返信

I liked How you explained step by step thanks

Reynaldo - 返信

After the replacement the LCD started to freezing.

auwadhablani - 返信

after my replacement with the ifixit camera, my camera twitches and will not focus :(

Brent Conklin - 返信

great, easy to follow directions... which i followed 3 times... d’oh! after the initial replacement, wondered why the picture was slightly out of focus... and it dawned on me there might be a protective film on the camera lens… BINGO. that problem solved… until i had NO picture after the second try. turns out i didn’t have the camera connector seated securely. third time was the charm.

craig rousseau - 返信

After change it my rear camera still stuck..and cannot use my flashlight..how????

bro fix - 返信

Mission accomplished after 90 min. No problems. Reading the extra comments by the users is mandatory.

Macrele - 返信

Did all these steps put new camera in and reassembled now blank screen when I use camera and flash not working so I reinstalled the old one and everything worked again but old cameras still not focused so I put new one in and same blank screen and I have a warning says flash to hot let cool down and either it or camera still not working also I reset phone still no go

2005harleyDarcyHrytsay - 返信

Wow what an amazingly EASY FIX. My picture was wavy and shaking before and now it works just like new. Thanks for the great guide and thanks to IFIXIT for supplying the part at such a great price.

Billy Ayoubi - 返信

This was amazingly simple and fixed my problem completely. Blurry camera that wouldn’t focus. The “isight” module was most likely gone in my old camera. Managed to fix in 20 minutes with zero issues on an iPhone 6 Plus - not a 6s Plus. If you have any questions at all or feel nervous about doing this upgrade, feel free to send me a message.

Wolfsuul - 返信

Great guide! Replaced my mother’s iPhone rear camera with new iFixit parts, and works perfect! Took 30 mins.

Stanislaw - 返信

Worked like a charm. Only took 20 min like the guide said.

Apple has issued a recall on iPhone 6+ back cameras and will replace them for free… unless you’ve already replaced your battery with one of the high quality iFixit ones. If you have they’ll waste an hour+ of your time in the apple store and then send you home to do it yourself, even though they admit the original part is faulty. Good times.

TheNickus - 返信

My rear camera was wavy and wouldn’t focus. It had double vision like a drunk person. This fixed it!

murat mckeown - 返信

Thank you for the guide. I had my wife’s camera, which the optical stabilizer was shaking like crazy, replaced in about 30 minutes.

bernardalm - 返信

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